Costa Rica

NIKKI SOLANO

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Contents

Welcome to Costa Rica

San José

Central Valley and Highlands

La Fortuna and Monteverde

Guanacaste and the Northern Pacific

Nicoya Peninsula

Central Pacific

Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific

Caribbean Coast

Wildlife Guide

Background

Essentials

Resources

Index

Acknowledgments

List of Maps

Photo Credits

Copyright

cloud forest at Monteverde

WELCOME TO Costa Rica

10 TOP EXPERIENCES

Planning Your Trip

BEST OF Costa Rica

FAMILY-FRIENDLY FUN

BACKPACKING ON A BUDGET

ISN’T IT ROMANTIC?

Pura Vida Adventures

THE BEST BEACHES FOR YOU

Get Back to Nature

COFFEE, CUISINE, AND CULTURE

DISCOVERING HIDDEN GEMS

One day early on in my career in Costa Rica, I was typing on a laptop while lounging in a hammock when a three-toed sloth appeared within a few feet of me. For nearly two hours, I watched the creature crawl around the rainforest canopy. From that day forward, I knew that Costa Rica is a place where magic is real—and within arm’s reach.

Costa Rica will amaze you. Opportunities for immersion in nature, wildlife-spotting, and fantastic photography are everywhere, so seize them. Boat safaris wind through monkey-lined rivers, mangroves, and canals. Treetop excursions provide panoramic forest, valley, volcano, lake, and ocean views. Exhibits and nature trails showcase reptiles, amphibians, insects, and plants. Parks, reserves, and refuges, spanning more than a quarter of the country’s landmass, protect the immense biodiversity that makes Costa Rica unique.

Prefer to be thrilled? Imagine yourself zip-lining through the cloud forest, rafting over raging rapids, rappelling down waterfalls, exploring mysterious caves, surfing notorious breaks, or summiting Costa Rica’s highest peak. To relax or reenergize, pamper yourself in paradise with hot springs, mud baths, yoga, and wellness retreats. Several beaches on the Pacific and Caribbean coasts are known for their remoteness, tranquil sunrises, and rainbow-colored sunsets.

Costa Rica’s laid-back pura vida attitude will change you. Ticos (Costa Ricans) are a friendly, inviting group who are proud of their country and welcome you to explore it. As one of the world’s top ecotourism destinations, Costa Rica offers eco-friendly experiences, accommodations, tour companies, and transportation services that make reducing your travel footprint both fun and easy.

Travel mindfully and you’ll reap bountiful rewards from this tiny corner of the world where people greet one another with a smile. A truly magical experience is yours for the taking.

white-water rafting on Río Pacuare

10 TOP EXPERIENCES

1 Spotting sloths and monkeys in treetops, sea turtles on the beach, or toucans and quetzals flying around forests during a wildlife encounter.

2 Zip-lining alongside Volcán Arenal in La Fortuna or among the clouds in Monteverde.

3 Riding the waves at bustling Tamarindo, quiet Nosara, or remote Santa Teresa.

4 Hiking through lush rainforests and cloud forests, like the humid and remote Parque Nacional Corcovado or the misty Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena.

5 Relaxing and rejuvenating at the volcanic mineral hot springs around Volcán Arenal near La Fortuna.

6 Beach-hopping along coastlines on the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea.

7 Floating through secluded canals in Tortuguero and tranquil mangroves at Isla Damas.

8 Touring a working coffee plantation in the Central Valley and Highlands or a chocolate farm on the Caribbean coast.

9 White-water rafting on the scenic Río Pacuare, an unmissable attraction for adrenaline junkies or beginners.

10 Swimming in a refreshing waterfall pool, like the one at the gentle and family-friendly Catarata Llanos del Cortés, the three cascades that form the Cataratas Montezuma, or the peaceful Cataratas Nauyaca.

Planning Your Trip

WHERE TO GO

San José

Thanks to the proximity of Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría, many travelers experience San José briefly as a vacation start or end point. But there is much to see and do in the nation’s capital city, a vibrant metropolis steeped in culture, character, and charm. Consider visiting the Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica, touring the Museo del Oro Precolombino, the Museo del Jade, or the Museo Nacional de Costa Rica, and shopping among locals at Mercado Central. To top off a perfect day, enjoy a night on the town with dinner, drinks, music, or dancing.

Central Valley and Highlands

In the Central Valley and on the slopes of its picturesque highlands, life operates at a slower pace than in San José. Cities and small rural communities share the land. Beloved tourist attractions, like La Paz Waterfall Gardens and Rescate Wildlife Rescue Center, and coffee plantations offer a nice balance of nature exploration and authentic cultural experiences.

Playa Biesanz on the central Pacific coast

Off-the-beaten-path attractions like Cataratas Las Gemelas hide among the region’s bucolic back roads. Additional recreational interests, including bird-watching in San Gerardo de Dota, where resplendent quetzals and other highland bird species are frequently seen, and extreme hiking in Parque Nacional Chirripó, home to Costa Rica’s highest point, are accessed from the region to the southeast.

La Fortuna and Monteverde

Welcome to the epicenter of adventure! Volcán Arenal is the backdrop to adventure parks in La Fortuna that feature hiking trails, zip lines, hanging bridges, and other thrills. Day trips to attractions outside of La Fortuna, including the Proyecto Asis Wildlife and Sloth Rescue Center and the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro, provide ample reasons to spend several days at the destination.

In Monteverde, similar adventures take place in the cloud forest. In addition to the destination’s zip lines and hanging bridges, hikes through the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena and other local reserves showcase the biodiverse ecosystem. Dabbling in agritourism, local families welcome visitors onto their properties for farm tours.

Guanacaste and the Northern Pacific

Guanacaste is Costa Rica’s driest province, but what it lacks in green landscape it makes up for in heart. Cowboy culture is the thing here; several attractions, like rustic ranches and adventure parks around Volcán Rincón de la Vieja in Tamarindo, specialize in horseback riding.

Along the northern Pacific coast, Bahía Murciélago and Islas Catalina are two of the country’s best dive sites, and the surfing is notorious at Ollie’s Point and Witch’s Rock. Kicking back on the luxurious Peninsula Papagayo and beach-hopping between gorgeous beaches is a breeze. After dark, let yourself be entertained by the nightlife in Tamarindo.

Nicoya Peninsula

When people long for sun, sand, and solitude, they come to the Nicoya Peninsula. Travelers who make the trek are rewarded with quiet towns, beautiful and empty beaches, and little distraction. Fittingly, yoga, surf, and health retreats are draws here, luring those in search of relaxation and beach time.

The region also boasts the undeveloped paradise of Isla Tortuga, exciting falls at Cataratas Montezuma, and a chance to watch sea turtles nesting at the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional.

Central Pacific

If you want to combine beach time and relaxation with adventure and nature tours, this is the region for you. Beaches line the central Pacific coast from end to end, yet the area is also mountainous and rich in wildlife, with crocodiles near Jacó, birds in Parque Nacional Carara, sloths in Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio, and monkeys at the Isla Damas mangroves. Beautiful views captured from hillside restaurants and sailing tours taken down and up the coast are most soothing. This region welcomes all travelers, with friendly hostels for backpackers and romantic resorts for couples.

Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific

Much of the Osa Peninsula has yet to be explored by visitors. In areas where development exists, establishments are low-key, environmentally conscious, and sometimes off the grid. While traveling to and through the region requires patience and time, hikes in the renowned Parque Nacional Corcovado and underwater exploration within the Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño make the trip worthwhile. Those who visit reap bountiful rewards, including immersion in nearly virgin forest and wildlife-watching opportunities of the highest caliber.

Caribbean Coast

With pretty beaches, coral reefs, and decent surf, the palm-backed southern Caribbean coast is loved for its laid-back vibe. It’s also the home of Afro-descendant culture, which delights visitors with delicious cuisine and calypso and reggae music.

To the north, the canals and beaches of Parque Nacional Tortuguero beckon wildlife watchers, as does the rainforest around the inland Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí. This is also where you can take part in one of the country’s greatest adventures, white-water rafting on Río Pacuare.

In the south, leisurely strolls through Parque Nacional Cahuita combine beach time with immersion in nature. The eye-opening tours at the Jaguar Rescue Center and Caribeans Chocolate Tour are led by passionate teams dedicated to teaching visitors about their work.

WHEN TO GO

Costa Rica is a year-round destination. Experiences vary greatly between the high season, mid-December-April, and the low season, May-mid-December. High season aligns with summer and is also known as the dry season. Low season aligns with the green season, colloquially referred to as the wet season, which is considered Costa Rica’s winter.

The shoulder season, which spans end of June-mid-August, sees a surge in visitors. Some accommodations increase their rates during this period.

The Caribbean’s weather patterns differ from those of the rest of the country. September-October, the wettest months in most of the country, are notoriously dry and sunny on the Caribbean coast, especially in the southern part of the region.

High Season

Generally, the high season runs mid-December-end of April. It begins no later than January 1 and ends no sooner than Easter. During the season, reservations for hotels, tours, and transportation can be tight, prices are high (notably for accommodations), and crowds are common at popular attractions.

The biggest draw is favorable weather, including sunny skies, warm temperatures of 24-29°C (75-85°F), and little rain; this translates to optimal driving conditions. The most expensive time to travel to Costa Rica is during brief peak periods around Christmas, New Year’s, and Easter, when lodging prices are hugely inflated.

Low Season

The low season runs beginning of May-mid-December. Some years it can begin immediately after Easter and last until December 31. The low season offers quiet trails, smaller tour groups, and cheaper prices. Since most tour operators require a minimum of two people to run tours, solo travelers can find it a challenge to travel at this time of year. Some businesses, mainly on the Nicoya Peninsula but not unheard of elsewhere in Costa Rica, close or undergo renovations September-November, sometimes as early as August.

capuchin monkey

Unfavorable weather, marked by heavy rain, whipping winds at high elevations, and occasional thunderstorms, can cause landslides, traffic delays, flooding, road closures (typically only in backroad areas), and last-minute tour cancellations.

BEFORE YOU GO

Passports and Visas

All visitors must have a valid passport to enter Costa Rica. Proof of intent to exit, in the form of a ticket to travel to another country, is required to receive a passport entry stamp. Stamps expire within 30 or 180 days of issuance, depending on the visitor’s country of origin.

Vaccinations

Costa Rica does not require North American travelers to provide proof of vaccination. Nationals of some African and South American countries are required to show proof of yellow fever vaccination. Recent travelers to countries in those areas may be asked to show the same.

Transportation

Near the center of Costa Rica and the capital city, the Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría (Juan Santamaría International Airport, SJO) is a great jumping-off point to destinations all around the country.

If you plan to explore Guanacaste, the northern Pacific coast, or the northern Nicoya Peninsula, fly into the Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós (Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport, LIR), also known as the Guanacaste Airport, in Costa Rica’s northwest corner. If your itinerary takes you across the country, consider flying into one airport and out of the other to avoid backtracking.

Getting around is easy. The public bus system is well-coordinated and reliable, as are tourist-geared shared shuttle services and private transfer services. Some tour outfitters provide post-tour onward transportation, allowing you to travel between destinations while experiencing an adventure along the way. Taxis and rented golf carts, ATVs, and bikes facilitate travel within towns.

Renting a car provides endless opportunities to explore, though a 4WD vehicle is required in many areas and recommended in most others.

Domestic flights, water taxis, and ferries connect several destinations and help save travel time.

Advance Reservations

Reserve tours, accommodations, and transportation services in advance. Last-minute requests and drop-ins are accepted in some cases, but most tour operators and attractions require prior notice. Secure reservations before you travel so you can take advantage of early-booking discounts and handle payment from home. Most businesses have flexible cancellation policies.

Sights and Experiences

It can be tempting to delay booking your tours until you have a better sense of what weather to expect. But doing so means that the tours you want may not have openings; delaying can also create a rush of last-minute arrangements. Most tours run rain or shine.

During high season, when spaces fill up quickly, book early to get your preferred date, time slot, and guide. In many cases, online reservations are strongly recommended, if not required. This is especially true for activities run by small organizations or Indigenous groups, most night tours and early-morning bird-watching tours, and visits to most national parks. (For a list of national parks that require or strongly recommend tickets be purchased in advance.)

Accommodations

During low season, most accommodations have rooms to spare, and reservations are not required. Availability tightens around shoulder season, when you should book a few months prior to your travel dates.

exploring the Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park, near La Fortuna

During the mid-December-April high season, the best accommodations sell out well in advance, typically by September. Other options fill up soon after. Stays during peak periods are the most sought-after; some lodgings receive requests for rooms up to a year in advance.

Transportation

Most transportation services, including shared shuttle services, private transfer services, organized tour transportation services, domestic flights, and water taxis, will not take passengers who don’t have a reservation. Many can be booked up to the day before departure (year-round), availability permitting, but it’s best to make reservations as soon as your itinerary is finalized.

During the high season, rental agencies either sell out of vehicles or have only non-4WD vehicles or expensive high-end vehicles to rent out. Agency lots are typically stocked with all vehicle types during the low season.

Ferries and some public bus companies accept reservations via their websites.

Traveling with Children

Costa Rica is a family destination. Many tour operators, accommodations, and shared shuttle service providers offer discounted rates for child travelers or don’t charge for them at all. For certain activities, tour operators will oftentimes impose minimum age limits for participation. Throughout this book, admission prices for children are provided along with an age range. If there is no minimum age limit given, it’s safe to assume children under the specified age range are free. Some activities, primarily those that require use of a harness, have additional minimum height and weight limits. Verify each tour in advance to avoid disappointment on the day of your reserved excursions.

hanging bridge in a treetop canopy

BEST OF Costa Rica

Costa Rica is a wonderland! Give yourself a generous amount of time to explore it with this two-week itinerary that is a selective sampling of the country’s most popular destinations. Featured are top experiences in nature exploration, adventure recreation, wildlife and marinelife encounters, cultural immersion, and beach relaxation. They’ll impress you with spectacular sights, fun new and tried-and-true activities, eye-opening ecosystems, serene moments, and destinations with different vibes.

On this trip, you’ll balance the must-dos with downtime on alternating visits to the lush inlands and the dreamy coast, and use the centrally located Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría, near San José, as your start and end point. Plan to rent a car for most of the journey; the freedom and flexibility that it provides can help you maximize your time and discover more of Costa Rica.

Day 1: Río Pacuare

Kick off your trip with big thrills and dramatic jungle landscape on a white-water rafting tour down the secluded Río Pacuare. The Class III and IV rapids will have you shouting Costa Rica’s catchphrase—“pura vida!”—with elation as you brave them between narrow canyons, beside tall waterfalls, and at the base of mountains. With departures from San José, onward transportation to La Fortuna, and complimentary breakfast and lunch, this all-inclusive excursion makes getting from the airport zone to the northern inland area both fun and effortless and provides a first full vacation day that is truly unforgettable.

Day 2: La Fortuna

Welcome to the epicenter of adventure! Cross off multiple bucket list experiences at La Fortuna, home to several of Costa Rica’s top nature and adventure experiences and the eye-catching conical Volcán Arenal. On your first day at this action-packed destination, rent a car from a local agency (keep it for the rest of your trip) and set out to explore the lush rainforest from top to bottom. Start with a morning walk across hanging bridges that cut through leafy rainforest canopy at the Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park. Then head to the picturesque Catarata Río Fortuna, but stop for a plateful of traditional Costa Rican food at Soda Víquez or a plant-based meal at The Green Spoon on the way. Take the rest of the day to swim in the waterfall’s river, take photos, and admire the grand rainforest at ground level. For dinner, fill up on food at Don Rufino Restaurante, a steak house.

Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park

Day 3: La Fortuna

Ready yourself for the rush of adrenaline that comes with zip-lining above the rainforest on the foothills of a volcano. Sign up for the experience at the Arenal Sky Adventures Park, where the zip-line circuit features panoramic volcano, lake, and rainforest views. In the afternoon and evening, offset the day’s exhilaration with sublime relaxation at the elegant Springs Resort & Spa. Hop between the resort’s many hot spring pools and lagoons to soak in rejuvenating thermal water at varying temperatures. Grab a casual lunch at Soda La Palma on your way to the resort and splurge on a meal at one of the resort’s on-site restaurants at dinnertime.

Day 4: La Fortuna

Take this day to explore an attraction outside of La Fortuna. Go hiking at Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio to lay your eyes on the striking blue Río Celeste, or take part in bird-watching and boating at the tranquil Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro. Have kids in tow? Introduce them to a variety of rescued wildlife—and the benevolent actions underway to protect them—at the Proyecto Asis Wildlife and Sloth Rescue Center. Back in La Fortuna, enjoy Italian food for dinner and dessert at the quiet Anch’io Pizzeria e Ristorante.

Day 5: Tamarindo

Depart from La Fortuna for the Pacific coast. Make your way to the beach town of Tamarindo, but not before taking a few hours to experience a top attraction accessed from the route. If bird-watching is your thing, eye all kinds of waterfowl at Parque Nacional Palo Verde. Alternatively, pop into Catarata Llanos del Cortés to go swimming, or detour up to Rincón de la Vieja to check out a ranch or adventure park. If you’d rather see a luxurious corner of Costa Rica, explore Peninsula Papagayo. Arrive at Tamarindo in time to watch the sunset, ideally while parked on Playa Tamarindo with a sangria in your hand from TABÚ. Dine by the water’s edge, casually at Nogui’s or more formally at the Pangas Beach Club. After dark, savor a cocktail or mocktail at CATA.

Day 6: Tamarindo

Feeling lazy? For most of this day, do nothing but lounge on the beach, soak up sunrays, and stroll and shop along Tamarindo’s main drag. Eat a plateful of home-style traditional food at Soda Buffet El Estero or plant-based food at the Flora Vegan Café. Midafternoon, muster up the energy to go horseback riding at the Black Stallion Eco Park to see a glorious sunset from a hilltop and feast on a hearty buffet dinner. After dark, embrace the destination’s lively nightlife with dancing at the Crazy Monkey Bar, if you’re in town on a Friday, or drinks at the Lizard Lounge.

Day 7: Tamarindo

Dedicate this day to exploring the water on a day trip taken from Tamarindo. Advanced-level surfers, sign up for an unforgettable surf tour to the legendary breaks Witch’s Rock and Ollie’s Point. Experienced scuba divers, take a dive tour to either Islas Murcielago or Islas Catalina, two famed dive sites. For a more relaxing day, hop between Playa Flamingo, Playa Conchal, and Playa Puerto Viejo, a string of beaches that are suitable for swimming. On your final evening in Tamarindo, be at the beachfront El Vaquero Pub to catch another spectacular sunset and cool off with a pre-dinner ale, then retreat to the Dragonfly Bar & Grill to enjoy a fantastic meal and possibly some live music.

Day 8: Monteverde

Take the morning to travel from Tamarindo to Monteverde. Along the way, note the landscape’s enchanting transition from dry-forest-backed beaches along the coast to mountainous slopes blanketed by verdant cloud forest. After settling in, eat a fresh light lunch at Orchid Coffee. In the afternoon, take a farm tour to learn how coffee and other products grow in Costa Rica, and to meet friendly locals who take pleasure in sharing their rural traditions with visitors. Carry the warmth of their hospitality into the evening with a lovely dinner at Ristorante e Pizzeria Tramonti.

Family-Friendly Fun

Costa Rica is one big eco-adventure park, with scenic sights, thrilling experiences, and wildlife encounters that make learning fun. Various activities and attractions are suitable for children; consider incorporating the following kid-friendly experiences into your travel plans to make the trip memorable for the whole family.

GO ZIP-LINING

Many zip-lining tours allow kids to participate. The Sky Trek canopy tour offered at both the Arenal Sky Adventures Park near La Fortuna and the Treetopia Park in Monteverde utilizes a handlebar braking system that is easy for children to operate.

HIKE A NATIONAL PARK WITH EASY TRAILS

Suitable for young explorers are the flat nature trails inside Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal in La Fortuna, Parque Nacional Carara and Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio in the central Pacific region, and Parque Nacional Cahuita on the Caribbean coast.

TOUR OR VOLUNTEER AT A WILDLIFE RESCUE CENTER

Get up close and personal with rescued wildlife at the Rescate Wildlife Rescue Center in Alajuela or while volunteering for a few hours at the Proyecto Asis Wildlife and Sloth Rescue Center near La Fortuna.

LEARN HOW CHOCOLATE IS MADE

The Rainforest Chocolate Tour in La Fortuna and the Caribeans Chocolate Tour on the Caribbean coast are free for children ages five and younger.

SWIM AT AN ACCESSIBLE WATERFALL

Some of Costa Rica’s waterfalls can be tough to access or too powerful for swimming. Great for children, the Catarata Llanos del Cortés near Liberia is only a five-minute walk from the parking lot and has a shallow wading area and a lifeguard on duty.

TAKE A BEGINNER SURF LESSON

Lots of surf schools welcome children. Have the kiddies start in Sámara; the area has a calm bay with gentle waves perfect for beginners.

SEE THE CRATER OF A VOLCANO

Easy to get to and a thrill to see are the dramatic craters of Volcán Poás in Parque Nacional Volcán Poás and Volcán Irazú in Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú, both in the Central Highlands.

Day 9: Monteverde

Wake up to the invigorating natural chorus that echoes the cloud forest’s rich biodiversity. Set out to explore the misty ecosystem on foot, possibly see some of its resident wildlife, and connect with nature mindfully. Let the peaceful stately Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena humble you while hiking the nature trails that thread the dense reserve. When hunger strikes, eat lunch at The Open Kitchen, then spend the afternoon exploring one of Monteverde’s other nature reserves or relaxing at your hotel. Bookend the day with cloud forest immersion by delighting in the multicourse gourmet dinner constructed by the San Lucas Treetop Dining Experience; the meal is served in a glass box tucked away in the trees.

Day 10: Monteverde

If you enjoyed zip-lining in La Fortuna, double your fun by experiencing the thrill again, in Monteverde. At this destination, the aerial views of wild cloud forest-wrapped terrain and the rare opportunity to go zip-lining through clouds provide new experiences. Discover them at the Treetopia Park. Give yourself anywhere from a few hours to a full day at the park, depending on if you also want to explore the on-site hanging bridges or challenge yourself to an amusing obstacle course in the forest. For dinner, chomp on international food at the Choco Café, and don’t leave without indulging in one of the café’s sumptuous desserts.

Day 11: Manuel Antonio

Travel leisurely from Monteverde to Manuel Antonio and enjoy the scenic trip. Marvel at the valley views on full display while you descend the mountainous inland area, and the ocean views that appear as you approach the Pacific coast. Pull over at the Crocodile Bridge to spy on a group of crocodiles basking on a riverbank. Make another stop at the roadside Parque Nacional Carara to stretch your legs with some gentle hiking and try your luck at spotting scarlet macaws and other remarkable avifauna. Pop into downtown Jacó to have lunch at the Green Room. Later, in Manuel Antonio, go for an early dinner at a hillside restaurant such as Mi Lugar or El Lagarto, where the setting sun provides a magnificent backdrop for a relaxing dining experience.

Backpacking on a Budget

Are you backpacking around Costa Rica on a tight budget? If so, stick to low-key experiences that cost little, allow for self-guided exploration, and provide an opportunity to make a friend or two along the way.

LOUNGE AROUND A WATERFALL

Head to the Catarata Río Fortuna in La Fortuna, the Cataratas Montezuma in Montezuma, or Cataratas Nauyaca near Dominical to spend a few hours relaxing at a beautiful waterfall amid a lush forest setting. No tour guide is required.

HIKE THROUGH A NATURE RESERVE OR NATIONAL PARK

At your own pace, hike through one of Costa Rica’s many protected areas, such as the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde, which has 13 km (8.1 mi) of interweaving trails.

DINE AT A SODA RESTAURANT

Save money by dining at inexpensive informal sodas that serve traditional Costa Rican meals. Soda Víquez in La Fortuna and Soda Buffet El Estero in Tamarindo are two of the country’s best.

CURB THE MUNCHIES WITH CHEAP EATS

Between meals, turn to roadside stalls and beach vendors for snacks and beverages. Raw-fish ceviche, pork chicharrones, Jamaican patís, refreshing pipa fría, and sweet copos are must-haves.

SHOP AT A FARMERS MARKET

Visit a weekly farmers market like the ones in San José or in Alajuela in the Central Valley. On the central Pacific coast, check out the Feria Jacó, or Uvita’s Mercado de Bahía Ballena for unique handmade items that make great and inexpensive souvenirs. On the Caribbean coast, head to Feria Puerto Viejo.

TAKE ADVANTAGE OF MULTIUSE ENTRANCE TICKETS

Explore a national park that has more than one sector, like the forest-filled Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal in La Fortuna or the beach-lined Parque Nacional Marino Ballena on the central Pacific coast. The entrance ticket buys access to every sector in the park on the date of purchase, helping you do and see more without spending more.

STAY AT A SOCIAL HOSTEL

Looking to meet new people? The Room 2 Board Hostel in Jacó, Selina Manuel Antonio in Manuel Antonio, and Playa 506 in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca have an energetic feel and host social events.

CHECK OUT BEACH TOWN BARS OR JOIN A NIGHTLIFE TOUR

The coastal towns of Tamarindo and Jacó have tons of bars you can hop between. The VIP Night Tour and San José Cantina Experience provide complimentary drinks and safe ways to check out the bar scene in the capital city.

RENT YOUR OWN EQUIPMENT

Shops and hotels in coastal communities rent surfboards, stand-up paddleboards, boogie boards, snorkeling equipment, kayaks, bikes, ATVs, and other items that aid in self-guided exploration of the country. Embrace your wanderlust!

Isn’t It Romantic?

Costa Rica’s abundant waterfalls, hot springs, beaches, and resorts provide no shortage of romantic settings, perfect if you’re on your honeymoon, celebrating a wedding anniversary, or marking another milestone.

SPLURGE ON A SWANKY ROOM AT A LUXURY RESORT

Surround yourself with Costa Rican luxury at the Andaz Costa Rica Resort at Peninsula Papagayo, Florblanca in Santa Teresa, or Lapa Ríos in Matapalo.

SOAK IN SOME HOT SPRINGS

The myriad of dimly lit hot springs pools and lagoons at The Springs Resort & Spa near La Fortuna are romantic and relaxing, or you can soak in adults-only hot springs at the Shangri-La Gardens as a guest of Tabacón.

PLAY A ROUND OF GOLF

Book a tee time for two at the immaculate Ocean Course at Peninsula Papagayo or the Garra de León Golf Course, both in the northern Pacific region.

BOOK A SUNSET SAIL

Enjoy the sunset (and an open bar) while sailing peacefully along the Pacific coast, especially the scenic stretch between Quepos and Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio.

TAKE A SCENIC DRIVE

Venture around the quiet countryside of the Valle de Orosi east of Cartago and picnic at one of the area’s panoramic viewpoints.

COUPLE WATERFALL VISITS WITH A REMOTE MOUNTAIN GETAWAY

Waterfall scenes are wildly enchanting. Tour a series of five high cascades at the popular La Paz Waterfall Gardens, then treat yourself to an overnight stay at the on-site Peace Lodge. Alternately, book a night at El Silencio Lodge & Spa and tour Cataratas Las Gemelas just up the road. Both romantic lodges are tucked away in the Central Highlands.

ZIP-LINE IN TANDEM

Try zip-lining alongside your partner with the side-by-side cables provided at Diamante Eco Adventure Park near Playas del Coco.

ENJOY FOOD AND DRINKS WHILE TAKING IN OCEAN VIEWS

Treat yourself to waterfront dining in Sámara, where you can relax to the sound of waves rolling in, or hilltop dining in Manuel Antonio, where you can enjoy rainforest and ocean views from above.

Day 12: Manuel Antonio

Dedicate much of this day to searching for—and successfully spotting—Manuel Antonio’s abundant wildlife. Start at Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio, where monkeys and sloths make regular appearances. Walk the park’s nature trails to see additional wildlife but also give yourself time to relax at the park’s stunning beaches, including Playa Manuel Antonio and Playa Espadilla Sur. Midday, break for lunch at El Patio de Café Milagro, then carry on with the quest to find fauna at Isla Damas. Spend a few hours boating or kayaking through the mangroves to see the wildlife that resides among the ecosystem’s showy root system and brackish waters. Celebrate the day’s wondrous discoveries with an elevated dinner at La Luna.

Playa Manuel Antonio

Day 13: Manuel Antonio

Carve out this day to take a relaxing road trip down the coast to the Costa Ballena. Visit Cataratas Nauyaca first to ease into the day with the sight of a beautiful two-tiered waterfall and a swim in its calm pool. Eat lunch in Dominical at the riverside Café Mono Congo, then make your way to Parque Nacional Marino Ballena in Uvita. Walk out into the Pacific Ocean on the whale-tail sandbar if it’s low tide, or take a whale-watching boat tour if it’s whale season. If your visit doesn’t coincide with either of these events, spend a few hours lounging and swimming at one of the Costa Ballena’s beaches, such as Playa Uvita inside the park or Playa Ventanas outside of the park. Eat an early dinner in Ojochal, known for its cuisine, at one of several revered restaurants, like Citrus.

Day 14: Manuel Antonio

In the morning, take a pleasant sailing, snorkeling, and dolphin-watching tour that showcases the region’s diverse landscape. The multilayered masterpiece composed of mountains and volcanoes, forest-filled hills, and beach-lined coastline perfectly illustrates Costa Rica’s multifarious appeal; salute your time in the country by taking a moment to reflect on all that it has given you. Although lunch is included with the tour, don’t leave Manuel Antonio before treating yourself to a delectable dessert and one more spectacular ocean view at the hillside Emilio’s Café. In the afternoon, travel back to the airport zone, and don’t fault yourself for dreaming about a return trip already. You’ve hit the highlights, but there is plenty more of Costa Rica to explore and love.

Playa Manuel Antonio

Pura Vida Adventures

If you live for adventure, you’ll love Costa Rica. It boasts seemingly infinite opportunities for engaging in thrilling activities.

Zip-Lining

• La Fortuna: Glide alongside Volcán Arenal at the Arenal Sky Adventures Park or over Catarata Río Fortuna at the Arenal Mundo Aventura Ecological Park.

• Monteverde: Zip through clouds with the added fun of riding an aerial tram at the Treetopia Park or the noteworthy Superman cables offered by 100% Aventura and Monteverde Extremo. All three canopy tour experiences include an adrenaline-inducing free fall.

zip-lining at the Treetopia Park in Monteverde

White-Water Rafting

• Caribbean: The best place for white-water rafting in Costa Rica is the breathtakingly scenic Río Pacuare.

TOP EXPERIENCE

The Best Beaches for You

With coasts on the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, Costa Rica offers no shortage of beaches.

GREAT FOR SINKING YOUR TOES INTO

Playa Flamingo, the west end of Playa Conchal, and Playa Puerto Viejo—all on the northern Pacific coast—have sand soft enough to snuggle in.

BEST FOR SPOTTING WILDLIFE

Troops of monkeys play around the beach at Playa Manuel Antonio in Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio and Playa Blanca in Parque Nacional Cahuita. Other wildlife species make occasional appearances.

PERFECT FOR EXPLORING TIDE POOLS

At low tide, the rocky shores of Playa Pelada, Playa Las Manchas, and Playa Los Suecos on the Nicoya Peninsula provide little pools that you’ll love wading in.

MOST SPECTACULAR SUNSETS

Sunsets along both coasts are incredible, but the most jaw-dropping are seen from Playa Hermosa in Guanacaste and Playa Carrillo on the Nicoya Peninsula.

SUPER FOR SWIMMING

Swimming is a gentle experience in the calm bays and coves that shelter Playa Nacascolo on the northern Pacific coast, Playa Sámara on the Nicoya Peninsula, and Playa Biesanz on the central Pacific coast from big waves and strong currents.

IDEAL FOR TAKING LONG WALKS

At low tide, visit the sun-soaked Playa Uvita in Parque Nacional Marino Ballena and walk the giant whale-tail-shaped sandbar that juts out into the ocean.

MOST IDYLLIC

Playa Tropical at the Nicoya Peninsula’s remote-feeling Isla Tortuga and the paradisial Playa Arrecife on the Caribbean coast have soothing turquoise waters.

Surfing

• Northern Pacific: Surf the legendary breaks at Witch’s Rock and Ollie’s Point within Parque Nacional Santa Rosa.

surfers at Playa Tamarindo

• Nicoya Peninsula: Connect with Costa Rica’s surf and yogic soul during a weeklong surf and yoga retreat in Santa Teresa.

Scuba Diving

• Osa Peninsula: Go scuba diving at the marinelife haven Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño.

• Northern Pacific: Dive with bull sharks at Islas Murciélago or manta rays at Islas Catalina.

• Central Pacific: Multiday trips to Parque Nacional Isla del Coco are exotic diving adventures that provide a rare opportunity to see hammerhead sharks.

Canyoneering

• La Fortuna: Rappel down rock faces and beside waterfalls during canyoning tours led by Desafio Adventure Company and Pure Trek.

Trekking

• Central Highlands: Hike the peak of Costa Rica’s highest mountain, Cerro Chirripó, on a multiday trek in Parque Nacional Chirripó.

Get Back to Nature

Costa Rica is filled with national parks, biological reserves, and other protected areas where waterfalls flow, ecosystems flourish, and all kinds of birds, wildlife, and marinelife can be seen.

Waterfalls

• Central Highlands: Gaze at several waterfalls in one place at La Paz Waterfall Gardens or wade in an azure stream fed by Cataratas Las Gemelas.

• Nicoya Peninsula: Swim at a trio of natural waterfall pools fed by Cataratas Montezuma.

• Central Pacific: Hike or ride a horse to the stunning two-tier Cataratas Nauyaca.

Ecosystems

• La Fortuna: Explore the rainforest from top to bottom; tour the treetops on a series of hanging bridges inside the Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park and hike around the forest floor in Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal.

• Monteverde: Embrace a cooler, mistier climate in the cloud forest while hiking through Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena or one of several other cloud forest reserves.

• Central Pacific: Learn about and float through mangroves on a boat tour of Isla Damas.

Wildlife

• Central Pacific: Fulfill your desire to see sloths and monkeys in the wild by touring Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio.

• La Fortuna and Monteverde: Search for nocturnal species after dark during one of several night tours.

• Osa Peninsula: Multiday treks to the far-flung Parque Nacional Corcovado mean more opportunities to spot wildlife that few travelers ever get the chance to see.

hikers on a black-sand beach in Parque Nacional Corcovado on the Osa Peninsula

Coffee, Cuisine, and Culture

Costa Rican culture is an eclectic mix of history, lively celebrations, rich foods, artisanal creations, and diverse groups of people. Immerse yourself in the beautiful blend to get the most out of your trip.

LEARN ABOUT GROWING COFFEE

In the Central Highlands, the large Hacienda Doka uses old-fashioned machinery and the small-scale, family-run El Toledo Coffee practices sustainability. In Monteverde, families invite visitors onto their farms to learn about the production of coffee and other products.

SAMPLE CARIBBEAN CUISINE

You can get high-quality, flavorful food at Soda Kawe in Cahuita, Lidia’s Place in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, and Take It Easy in Playa Cocles.

EXPLORE A MUSEUM

Step back in time and learn about Costa Rica’s history through informative, interactive, and artifact-filled museum displays. The refurbished Museo del Oro Precolombino, the easy-to-tour Museo del Jade, and the historical Museo Nacional de Costa Rica in San José are the best.

ATTEND A FIESTA CÍVICA

Don’t miss the Fiestas de Zapote, San José’s largest festival, in late December. If you can’t make the event, catch one of many lively and traditional civic festivals in Guanacaste.

EYE ARCHAEOLOGICAL FINDS

The Monumento Nacional Guayabo in Turrialba is full of petroglyphs, tombs, and other interesting discoveries. Visits to Cataratas La Piedra del Indio, between La Fortuna and Monteverde, reveal a 3,500-year-old petroglyph-covered rock.

PERUSE ARTISAN SHOPS

Watch artists build and decorate iconic oxcarts at the fábricas de carretas (cart factories) in Sarchí or browse art studios in Monteverde.

VISIT AN INDIGENOUS RESERVE

At the Reserva Indígena Maleku near La Fortuna, watch members of the Indigenous group demonstrate the significance of dress, art, and medicinal plants. Near the Caribbean coast, you can try archery, take a cooking class, or participate in a purification ceremony at a Bribri village.

WATCH A GAME OR PERFORMANCE

If you’re into sports, catch the national team playing fútbol at the Estadio Nacional de Costa Rica. If you prefer the arts, take in a performance at the Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica. Both venues are in San José.

LIVE LIKE A LOCAL

Shop, dine, and people-watch like a Tico at the Mercado Central in San José.

Bird-Watching

• Northern Inlands: Encounter flocks of spoonbills and cormorants, among other bird species, around the wetlands that belong to Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro.

• Guanacaste: Spy on anhingas and additional waterbirds at Parque Nacional Palo Verde.

• Central Pacific: See scarlet macaws and other lowland birds flying around Parque Nacional Carara.

• Central Highlands: Spot quetzals and hummingbirds in San Gerardo de Dota.

Sea Turtle Nesting

• Nicoya Peninsula: Watch groups of olive ridley sea turtles lay their eggs in the sand at the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional.

• Caribbean Coast: See multiple species of sea turtles nest at Parque Nacional Tortuguero.

Hot Springs

• La Fortuna: Unite with nature in a luxurious way by soaking in forest-wrapped springs around the base of Volcán Arenal at the upscale properties Tabacón and The Springs Resort & Spa.

• Guanacaste: Kick back in casual riverside hot springs at Vandará and the Río Negro Hot Springs on the slopes of Volcán Rincón de la Vieja.

Discovering Hidden Gems

Lesser known than Costa Rica’s top attractions, these worthwhile experiences inspire traveling off the beaten path. Visit authentic towns and communities, take less sought-after tours, or explore unconventional ways of experiencing popular activities to discover the unsung sides of Costa Rica that most people miss.

SHARE IN A LOCAL’S PASSION FOR BIRDS AND WILDLIFE

Frog’s Paradise in Bijagua, the Life for Life Sea Turtle Conservation Project near Bahía Drake, and Ara Manzanillo in Manzanillo are great places to learn about fauna from people particularly passionate about protecting it.

SPRAWL OUT ON OVERLOOKED BEACHES

Playa Garza on the Nicoya Peninsula, Playa San Josecito on the Osa Peninsula, and Playa Chiquita on the Caribbean coast are beautiful and quiet beaches less frequented than most.

LEARN ABOUT SPICE AND PINEAPPLE PRODUCTION

Coffee, chocolate, and sugarcane feature heavily in Costa Rica farm tours, but learning about spice production at Villa Vanilla outside of Manuel Antonio and organic pineapple production at the Organic Paradise Tour in Sarapiquí are other worthwhile farm experiences.

TAKE THE NATURE TRAILS LESS TRAVELED

Tapir Valley near Bijagua, the Sendero Costero at Bahía Drake, and Estación Biológica La Selva in Sarapiquí are great places for exploring nature trails that are typically void of crowds.

WADE IN SECLUDED POOLS TUCKED AWAY IN THE FOREST

The waterfall-fed swimming holes at Cataratas La Piedra del Indio outside of Monteverde and the thermal-water pools at Vandará in Rincón de la Vieja are sunken in lush forest amid remote natural settings.

EXPERIENCE SURF CULTURE IN A UNIQUE WAY

Surf the outlying breaks off Playa Avellanas and Playa Negra south of Tamarindo, practice sustainable surfing with the Safari Surf School in Nosara, or watch a surf competition at Playa Hermosa near Jacó.

TRY FREE DIVING

Trade snorkeling and scuba diving for up-and-coming free diving. Freedive Costa Rica in Tamarindo and Rica Freedivers in Quepos have beginner classes that can introduce you to the exhilarating sport.

TAKE IN SPECTACULAR VIEWS AT EMPTY MIRADORES

The unfrequented viewpoints inside Parque Nacional Barra Honda on the Nicoya Peninsula, along the road to Puerto Jiménez on the Osa Peninsula, and at Cerro Tortuguero on the Caribbean Coast are peaceful places to behold the beauty of Costa Rica’s natural landscape.

San José

HIGHLIGHTS

MAP: SAN JOSÉ

ORIENTATION

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Itinerary Ideas

A PERFECT DAY IN SAN JOSÉ

Sights

CENTRAL SAN JOSÉ

MAP: CENTRAL SAN JOSÉ

MAP: EAST SAN JOSÉ

WEST SAN JOSÉ

WALKING AND SIGHTSEEING TOURS

Recreation

PARKS

FÚTBOL

Entertainment and Events

THE ARTS

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

Shopping

MARKETS

PEDESTRIAN MALLS

GALLERIES

Food

CENTRAL SAN JOSÉ

EAST SAN JOSÉ

WEST SAN JOSÉ

Bars and Nightlife

NIGHTLIFE DISTRICTS

TOURS

CENTRAL SAN JOSÉ

EAST SAN JOSÉ

Accommodations

CENTRAL SAN JOSÉ

EAST SAN JOSÉ

WEST SAN JOSÉ

Information and Services

MEDICAL AND EMERGENCY SERVICES

VISITOR INFORMATION

BANKS AND ATMS

MAIL AND SHIPPING SERVICES

SUPERMARKETS

GAS STATIONS

Transportation

GETTING THERE

GETTING AROUND

Highlights

Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.

S Admire the architecture and opulent decor of the Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica (click here).

S View pre-Columbian gold artifacts at the vast Museo del Oro Precolombino (click here).

S Learn about Costa Rica’s archaeological history through the interactive displays at the Museo del Jade (click here).

S Take a cultural journey through Costa Rica’s most influential eras by hopping between themed exhibits at Museo Nacional de Costa Rica (click here).

S Shop like a local and dine at beloved eateries at the Mercado Central (click here).

San José, Costa Rica’s capital city, is a vibrant, bustling, and, yes, congested metropolis steeped in a blend of Costa Rican and expat cultures. Chepe, as the city is affectionately referred to by Josefinos (San José residents), is wildly diverse, at least when compared with the rest of the country. Within its relatively small center of roughly 15 sq km (5.8 sq mi), the city provides a vast range of sights, experiences, and environments.

Casual markets and upscale shops sit side by side on the same avenue. Typical Costa Rican dishes are served next door to world-class international cuisine. Businesspeople, families, students, and street performers intermingle in plazas and parks. At its core, San José is a mosaic.

Once a coffee-trading outpost, San José has urbanized light-years beyond its agricultural roots. Still, it maintains much of its dashing Old World charm in striking colonial-style buildings around the city that now function as hotels, restaurants, and bars. The city’s history is proudly preserved in statues, monuments, and museums.

Located in the middle of the country, the greater San José area serves as a popular hub where visitors begin and end their time in Costa Rica. Many overlook the capital as a potential destination in favor of spending more time in forest-wrapped inland areas or along either coast. But there’s enough here to pique the interest of most travelers.

ORIENTATION

Greater San José comprises more than 100 barrios (neighborhoods); many are residential and pleasant, some are touristy, and others are very poor. It’s hard to tell where one ends and the next begins. It’s easier to navigate the city by breaking it into three main areas: Central San José, East San José, and West San José.

Most streets in San José follow a grid pattern. Generally, avenidas (avenues) run east-west and calles (streets) run north-south. Road numbers can help you get your bearings. Avenues north of Avenida Central have odd numbers, and avenues south of Avenida Central have even numbers. Streets east of Calle Central have odd numbers, and streets west of Calle Central have even numbers.

Most establishments in San José don’t use numbered addresses, instead referenced by streets and avenues, common landmarks, or both. Familiarize yourself with basic directional words and phrases in Spanish. Most distances are in metros (meters); blocks in San José typically run 75-150 m (246-492 ft). You might see the address of the Museo del Jade, for example, referenced as any of the following: Avenida Central y Calle 13 (Central Avenue and 13th Street); Avenida Central, 30 metros al este de la Calle 13 (Central Avenue, 30 m/98 ft to the east of 13th Street); or Avenida Central, en el lado oeste de la Plaza de la Democracia (Central Avenue, on the west side of the Plaza de la Democracia).

Throughout West San José and upon entry into the central zone, Highway 2 is known as Paseo Colón. In the downtown core, Highway 2 is referred to as Avenida 2. In East San José, Highway 2 is sometimes cited as Avenida del Libertador Juan Rafael Mora Porras.

Highway 2 in Central San José is an eastbound one-way street. Avenida 3 (3 blocks north of Hwy. 2) is a westbound one-way street. In the center of the city, Calle 1 (a southbound one-way street) and Calle 3 (a northbound one-way street) form Highway 32, which connects the capital to the Caribbean coast.

Central San José

The city’s core, in the middle of Central San José, is a primarily flat, walkable stretch that’s roughly 20 blocks wide and 6 blocks deep. San José Centro (San José Center), as the locals call it, or simply downtown, contains most of the city’s attractions, parks, and pedestrian malls. Station yourself here if you wish to be in the middle of the action and within walking distance of most attractions.

The intersection of Calle Central and Avenida Central pinpoints the center of the city. In the downtown core, popular avenues are Avenida 1, Avenida 2, Avenida 3, and Avenida Central, which is closed to vehicles between Calles 9 and 14.

Northeast of downtown are some quaint neighborhoods including Barrio Amón and Barrio Aranjuez, home to some of the city’s most eye-catching historical buildings. In downtown’s east end, roughly where Central San José and East San José meet, is Barrio La California, a small neighborhood and bar district that locals call La Cali.

Northwest of downtown is one of the city’s roughest areas, and south of downtown offers little interest to foreigners. Both vicinities should be avoided.

East San José

The city’s University District takes up much of East San José. Close to the campus of the Universidad de Costa Rica are Barrio Los Yoses, a quiet community with a handful of inexpensive lodging options, and Barrio Escalante, with a great selection of casual but high-end cafés and restaurants, many of them plant-based. If you’re a night owl or looking to socialize, you’ll love the lively atmosphere that the east end of the city provides.

West San José

Closest to the upscale town of Escazú, West San José—much of which is referred to as La Sabana—has executive-style hotels, classy restaurants, and swanky clubs. It also has Parque Metropolitano La Sabana, the largest park in the city, and a softness that is missing from the downtown core. Business travelers and others looking to splurge stay here if they’re not in a ritzy hotel in the central zone.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

To really get to know jam-packed San José would take weeks. Realistically, you’ll probably only have one day to get the gist of it, so you’ll want to fill the time with as many sights as you can. Plan your itinerary in advance so you can maximize your visit and minimize your walking time or taxi fare. If you’re not up for coordinating your own route, several San José walking tours handle the mapping; all you need to do is show up and keep up.

Fortunately, the city’s highlights can be experienced in a day. If you station yourself downtown, you can take in the architecture of the Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica, see authentic urban life while shopping at Mercado Central, and fit in the top experiences at the city’s best museums—eyeing precious artifacts at the Museo del Oro Precolombino, learning about jade and pre-Columbian history at the Museo del Jade, and walking through era-themed exhibits at Museo Nacional de Costa Rica—all before nightfall, leaving your evening free to dine out, take in a show, attend a fútbol game, or have a few drinks at a bar. Your busy day will be long and tiring, but also revelatory and rewarding. With additional time to spend in the city, spread out your visits to the top five attractions over two or more days and explore them at a slower pace.

Weather and Transportation

San José, low in the Central Valley, has temperatures that average in the low 20s Celsius (low 70s Fahrenheit). Sunshine is common but often interrupted by sporadic periods of rainfall, especially May-November.

San José’s paved multilane highways offer well-marked exits. Downtown, streets narrow and traffic regularly backs up, but the roads are in decent condition and don’t require a 4WD vehicle. The biggest hazards to look out for are other drivers, many of whom speed and change lanes without signaling. Drive defensively and use a GPS to help you navigate. Occasional road closures can cause frustrating delays.

Traveling in San José is made quick and easy by the east-west Highway 2. It begins in West San José and serves as the city’s main thoroughfare. It sails through Central and East San José for 6 km (3.7 mi) before turning south toward Cartago.

Safety Concerns

There is a significant amount of crime in San José. This means visitors should have higher levels of alertness and preparedness than in other parts of Costa Rica. Plan where you want to go in the city, know how to safely get to and from each site, and stick to your itinerary. Aimless wandering can quickly lead you into dangerous neighborhoods.

Pickpocketing, petty theft, and vehicle break-ins are the most common crimes against tourists. Don’t wear valuable jewelry, expose expensive cameras longer than necessary, or carry or display lots of cash around town. Keep your passport in your hotel, ideally in a safe. Only carry a copy of your passport with you around town. Park your rental vehicle only in secure lots.

Come nightfall, the potential for danger increases greatly. If you wish to experience San José after dark, go out with other people, stick to well-populated and well-lit areas (avoid parks and side streets), and always keep your wits about you. Do not visit an ATM at night; cash should be retrieved only during daylight hours.

If you’re traveling on a shoestring, set aside funds in your budget for taxi transportation in San José. It can be tempting to walk everywhere in the city, especially to or from bus stations, but many are in dicey areas. It’s best to take a cab from place to place instead of walking between destinations. Limit your walks around the city to popular and low-risk areas, and rely on paid transportation, such as official red taxis, buses, and drivers arranged through your hotel.

Itinerary Ideas

A PERFECT DAY IN SAN JOSÉ

This daylong circuit, packed with cultural experiences, allows you to explore the capital city on foot.

1 Begin the self-guided walking tour at the eye-catching Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica in the center of San José. Purchase a ticket for the 9am guided theater tour to see the murals and opulent decor that bedazzle the theater’s interior, and to learn about the theater’s history.

2 From the front of the theater, stroll two blocks west on Avenida 2 and scale the steps of the Catedral Metropolitana to see the cathedral’s beautiful windows, floor, and other striking features.

3 Walk one block north and three blocks west to Mercado Central and enter the market’s maze of corridors. Blend in with locals going about their daily routine by perusing the miscellaneous goods packed into the market’s overflowing stalls.

4 Grab food and drink at the market, but not all at one place. Try the signature products of several beloved eateries: Sip a fresh-ground coffee at Cafetería Central, chomp on a tasty tortilla at Soda Tala, and round out the culinary experience with an ice cream at La Sorbetera de Lolo Mora.

5 Exit the market at Avenida 1 and walk two blocks east to Calle 2. Lay your eyes on the golden Edificio Central de Correos y Telégrafos to the left, then take Calle 2 one block south to Avenida Central. Join the city folk using the car-free pedestrian boulevard to cross downtown San José.

6 Walk nine blocks east to the Museo Nacional de Costa Rica. Give yourself two hours to explore the encyclopedic museum’s many exhibits and read the informative placards that detail key moments in Costa Rica’s past.

7 For dinner, dine on beef tenderloin at the lovely restaurant La Esquina de Buenos Aires, a short walk west from the museum.

8 Afterward, retire to Azotea Calle 7, an intimate rooftop bar, to enjoy a nightcap, bocas (Costa Rica’s take on Spanish tapas), and a change of scenery from the city’s busy streets.

Sights

CENTRAL SAN JOSÉ

Catedral Metropolitana

Metropolitan Cathedral; Calle Central, between Avenida 2 and Avenida 4; tel. 506/2221-3820; www.arquisanjose.org; 5:30am-7pm Mon.-Fri., 6am-7pm Sat., 6:30am-7pm Sun.

Downtown San José’s Catedral Metropolitana was re-erected in 1871, decades after its initial construction and following an earthquake that battered the building. In the core of the city, this religious institution on the east side of Parque Central is the gathering place of local Roman Catholics. From the exterior, the stone-white boxy cathedral resembles a courthouse, complete with a wide concrete staircase and eight tall columns at its entrance. The exterior is unembellished, but inside are ornate details like dark-wood pews, gold candelabras, decorative floor tiles, and stained-glass windows.

The music played on the 19th-century pipe organ is beautiful, unhurried, and contemplative. Misa (mass) takes place regularly, with four services throughout the day Monday-Saturday, and seven services on Sunday.

Plaza de la Cultura

Culture Plaza; Calle 5 at Avenida Central

The centrally located outdoor Plaza de la Cultura is the perfect place to stop and rest during a stroll around San José. Following a multimillion-dollar renovation in 2016, the plaza—formerly no more than a concrete slab—is now a vibrant square where floor tiles act as water fountains; the space doubles as a children’s splashpad (10am-6pm daily). At night (6pm-10pm daily), colorful lights and music accompany spurts of water and make for a whimsical synchronized display. The Gran Hotel Costa Rica towers over the plaza from the west, the Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica abuts its south side, and the subterranean Museo del Oro Precolombino hides underneath. Eateries and shops surround the plaza. Foot traffic passes through in all directions, making this an ideal spot for people-watching.

S Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica

GOOGLE MAP

National Theater of Costa Rica; Calle 5, adjacent to the Plaza de la Cultura; tel. 506/2010-1100; www.teatronacional.go.cr; 9am-5pm daily, later on performance nights

San José’s distinguished Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica is easily identifiable. It’s the large, lavish neoclassical building on the south side of the Plaza de la Cultura. In a country where coffee plantations and small houses dominate the landscape, this elegant, opulent theater is one of the few overt displays of luxury. Inaugurated in 1897, the theater hosts the country’s top drama, music, and dance performances.

Statues adorn the exterior, the entrance, and the lobby, a white marble masterpiece clad in gold trim and velvet ropes. The second-floor foyer is equally stunning, with its tall columns, hand-painted ceiling, and luxuriant curtains. Marble staircases connect floors via soft curves, and murals decorate most of the ceilings. The most famous work of art in the place, El Alegoría del Café y el Banano (The Allegory of the Coffee and the Banana), was also on the back of one of the old five-colón bills. Inside the shimmery gold-accented auditorium are three levels of balconies arranged in a horseshoe shape around the main-floor seating. Paintings of angels and cherubs fill the room’s circular ceiling, warmly lit by a magnificent chandelier.

You can visit the theater for free to admire the beautiful lobby, visit the gift shop, and grab something to eat or drink at the on-site Alma de Café (9am-7pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-6pm Sun.; $8-13), which serves delicious soups, salads, sandwiches, and other light fare. If you don’t have tickets for a performance, you can see the theater beyond the lobby on a guided tour (hourly 9am-4pm daily; 45 minutes; $11 pp over age 11). The tour explores the building from top to bottom and discusses its history, artworks, and famous past performers. Tickets for guided tours must be purchased at the box office on the north side of the theater, not at the theater’s west-facing entrance. Tours advertised at the box office as dramatizadas (dramatized) include a short theatrical performance in addition to the standard theater tour.

Edificio Central de Correos y Telégrafos

Central Post Office and Telegraph Building; Calle 2 at Avenida 3; tel. 506/2257-8888; 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-noon Sat.

Stroll past the Edificio Central de Correos y Telégrafos and you may mistake the ornate structure for a palace. Constructed in 1917, the butter-yellow building displays Costa Rica’s coat of arms above its entrance. Today it’s a fully functional post office that also serves as the country’s postal headquarters.

Museo Postal, Telegráfico y Filatélico

Postal, Telegraphic and Philatelic Museum; Calle 2 at Avenida 3; tel. 506/2223-6918; 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri.; $1.50 pp

Venture inside the post office building to see displays in the Museo Postal, Telegráfico y Filatélico of a variety of unique pieces, like antique phones in working condition and both domestic and international stamps, including Costa Rica’s first. Bring a pen; the entrance fee buys you a postcard that can be sent anywhere in the world. Send it from the post office or keep it as a souvenir.

S Museo del Oro Precolombino

GOOGLE MAP

Pre-Columbian Gold Museum; Calle 5 at Avenida Central, under the Plaza de la Cultura; tel. 506/2243-4202; www.museosdelbancocentral.org; 9:15am-4:30pm daily; $16 pp over age 11

Enter the subterranean Museo del Oro Precolombino, which dives three levels underground, and you’ll feel like you’ve jumped back to pre-Columbian times. Reopened in 2019 following a vast renovation, the sleek-looking museum has nine permanent displays that explore the worldviews of Indigenous Costa Ricans, including their migration routes, farming and hunting techniques, trading practices, spiritual beliefs, and gender roles.

The displays contain gold, stone, and ceramic pieces; dioramas; interactive displays; sculptures; and informative placards with descriptions in both Spanish and English. The museum’s standout feature is its large collection of antique gold relics; among the items on display are arm and ankle bands, headpieces, necklaces, and figures that represent fauna, humans, and spiritual beings.

The museum is also home to the Museo de Numismática (Numismatic Museum), a permanent 300-piece collection that details the history of Costa Rica’s currency. Coins, banknotes, and private currencies used from the 18th century to the present day can be examined at close range, and you can read about the Casa de la Moneda, Costa Rica’s mint. Access to the numismatic collection is included with the Museo del Oro Precolombino admission fee.

S Museo del Jade

GOOGLE MAP

Jade Museum; Avenida Central at Calle 13; tel. 506/2521-6610; https://museodeljade.grupoins.com; 8am-5pm daily; $16 adults, $2 ages 6-12

The well-organized, modern Museo del Jade is rich in history. Along with its collections of pre-Columbian artifacts, it offers visually appealing displays documented in both Spanish and English, and interactive education centers with fun games and puzzles to aid young learners. An efficient five-floor design (elevators are available) minimizes time spent walking between exhibits. Each floor focuses on different aspects of pre-Columbian history. The discovery, use, and preservation of jade is covered, as are the routines and rituals of pre-Columbian peoples. Most displays are life-size, crafted with incredible detail, and supplemented with in-depth descriptions. While the Night exhibit (which covers the underworld, war, and burial ceremonies) is the favorite of many museumgoers, I prefer the colorful Day exhibit for its exploration of flora and fauna.

Don’t miss the room full of glass display cases that contain thousands of Costa Rica’s most important archaeological finds, including stone, ceramic, and jade pieces, many of which continue to be studied. You don’t need to be a history buff to enjoy the place. The museum is entertaining and informative enough to hold your attention and make the visit worthwhile.

If you’re feeling parched or hungry, the on-site cafeteria-style Grano Verde Café (10am-5pm daily; $3-12) is a great little spot that serves 11 kinds of coffee and green smoothies, plus healthy sandwiches and salads, pizzas, lasagnas, and scrumptious desserts.

S Museo Nacional de Costa Rica

GOOGLE MAP

National Museum of Costa Rica; between Avenida Central and Avenida 2, just east of Calle 13; tel. 506/2211-5700; www.museocostarica.go.cr; 8:30am-4:30pm Tues.-Sat., 9am-4:30pm Sun.; $11 pp over age 11

Exhibits that showcase key eras in Costa Rica’s history and the important figures and events that helped shaped them are on display at the Museo Nacional de Costa Rica. This museum neatly summarizes Costa Rica’s development and the formation of its identity from its pre-Columbian roots through the colonial era to its modern-day existence. A wide variety of topics are addressed (the contributions of presidents, the production of coffee, the rise of liberalism, and the growth of tourism, among others), and an eclectic compilation of artifacts from all corners of the country can be seen, from Indigenous tools and carvings to precious metals and stones, as well as topographic maps, old cars and photographs, and carretas (oxcarts). Placards in Spanish and English are available throughout the museum.

The yellow castle-like museum, which served as a fortress until 1948, the end of the civil war, is on the east side of the concrete Plaza de la Democracia. Included in your visit is an opportunity to walk through the fortress to see rooms that once served as living spaces and prisoner cells, a lovely courtyard, and an enclosed butterfly garden. Some exterior walls remain riddled with bullet holes from the historical conflicts that took place here.

Museo de Arte y Diseño Contemporáneo

Museum of Art and Contemporary Design; Avenida 3 at Calle 15; tel. 506/2257-9370; www.madc.cr; 10am-5pm Tues.-Sat.; $4 pp over age 4

What once oozed booze as Costa Rica’s national liquor factory now houses San José’s most progressive museum. The Museo de Arte y Diseño Contemporáneo has five small rooms that can be toured rather quickly. Exhibitions rotate regularly; most focus on culture, gender, language, or other social issues. Also here is a video library and documentation center where museum archives can be accessed. A reservation is required to access the archives, most of which are in Spanish.

WEST SAN JOSÉ

Estadio Nacional de Costa Rica

National Stadium of Costa Rica; Road 104, west side of Parque Metropolitano La Sabana; tel. 506/2549-0985

The Estadio Nacional de Costa Rica is arguably Costa Rica’s most modern sports and event center. The all-white arena holds more than 35,000 seats and features a giant retractable roof. This spiky structure will catch your eye throughout West San José. Events from concerts to fashion shows are hosted at the venue, but it is best known as the home stadium of the Selección Nacional, Costa Rica’s national fútbol team. Here, Costa Rica’s best fútbol players represent their country in international sport competitions. Thousands of Ticos, young and old, fill the stands to cheer them on during sold-out games.

Museo de Arte Costarricense

Museum of Costa Rican Art; Hwy. 1 at Hwy. 2, east side of Parque Metropolitano La Sabana; tel. 506/2256-1281; www.mac.go.cr; 9am-4pm Tues.-Sun.; free

Housed in a defunct terminal of Costa Rica’s first international airport, the Aeropuerto Internacional La Sabana (La Sabana International Airport), is the Museo de Arte Costarricense. The small attraction displays a rotating collection of Costa Rican and international pieces both inside and in the sculpture garden out back. Enter the museum just south of the west end of Paseo Colón, where the road meets the Parque Metropolitano La Sabana.

Take time to visit the Salón Dorado on the second floor. All four walls of the bronze-colored room feature nearly floor-to-ceiling stucco carvings that present a 360-degree visual interpretation of Costa Rica’s history. The details are immaculate.

Museo de Ciencias Naturales La Salle

La Salle Museum of Natural Sciences; just south of Road 167, southwest corner of Parque Metropolitano La Sabana; tel. 506/2232-1306; www.museolasalle.ed.cr; 8am-4pm Tues.-Sat., 9am-5pm Sun.; $5 adults, $3.50 ages 2-12, cash only

A hit with Costa Rican children, the Museo de Ciencias Naturales La Salle satisfies curious young minds with fossils and shells, rocks and minerals, pinned insects and butterflies, the bones of dinosaurs and marinelife, and lots of taxidermy. Depending on who you talk to, the canisters of formaldehyde that contain odd creatures—including two-headed, mutated species—are either creative or creepy.

WALKING AND SIGHTSEEING TOURS

Looking to jam a ton of sights, stories, and knowledge into a few short hours in San José? The city is full of fun narrated walking tours.

San José Free Walking Tour

tel. 506/8721-9443; www.sanjosewalking.com; 9am and 1pm daily Jan.-Apr., 9am daily May-Dec.; 2.5-3 hours; donation

My favorite walking tour is the San José Free Walking Tour. This all-encompassing walking tour covers the downtown core and includes talk of art, history, politics, and everyday life in the capital. Best of all, the tour is run by spirited locals who love their city. Reservations are required. The tour departs from the Delta by Marriott hotel (San José Aurola) on the north side of Parque Morazán.

Chepe Hideaways Tour

tel. 506/8849-8316; www.chepecletas.com; 9am daily; 2 hours; $37 adults, $10 under age 13

A backstreet look at San José is provided during the guided Chepe Hideaways Tour run by local tour operator ChepeCletas. During the walking tour, you’ll visit several of the capital’s highlights, including parks and markets, as well as other nooks and crannies that showcase its character and hidden hot spots.

Bike and Bites San José Tour

tel. 506/8849-8316; www.chepecletas.com; 10am daily; 2 hours; $49 pp; min. age 12

If you enjoy biking, accompany ChepeCletas on the informal Bike and Bites San José Tour that they lead through several historical and artistic neighborhoods each morning. The ride is a great way to meet some locals, experience San José’s frenetic pace of activity, and see the city on two wheels. Complimentary coffee and empanadas are served during the tour.

VIP City Bus

tel. 506/2282-0240; www.vipcitybus.com; 10:30am and 3:15pm daily; 3.5-4.5 hours; $78 pp

To discover San José with less effort, hop on the double-decker VIP City Bus. During the narrated bus ride, you’ll be chauffeured to several sights of interest and make guided stops at a few, including Mercado Central and the Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica. The complimentary authentic lunch or dinner and live folkloric music performed on the bus bring cultural elements to the urban experience. Transportation from San José hotels is included.

Recreation

PARKS

Central San José

Parque Nacional

National Park; bordered by Avenida 3, Calle 19, Avenida 1, and Calle 15

The sculpture-filled Parque Nacional, the largest park in downtown San José, is home to Costa Rica’s bronze Monumento Nacional (National Monument), perhaps the greatest depiction of national pride in the capital. It represents Costa Rica’s regained identity following the defeat of American William Walker during the War of 1856. Choose this park if you’re looking to picnic outdoors.

Parque Morazán and Parque España

Morazán Park and España Park; Avenida 3, between Calle 5 and Calle 9

Neighbors Parque Morazán and Parque España are two of the greenest areas in Central San José. Connected by the small Jardín de Paz, identifiable by its multitiered water fountain, the parks have manicured gardens and host the occasional artist as well as groups of street performers who use the gazebo in Parque Morazán as a place to practice their skills.

West San José

Parque Metropolitano La Sabana

La Sabana Metropolitan Park; bordered by Road 104, Hwy. 1, and Hwy. 27

On the west side of the city is the beloved Parque Metropolitano La Sabana, a rectangular 178-acre space comprising sports facilities, forest, and an artificial lagoon. The park feels out of place in the bustling capital, but it’s well enjoyed by locals. The main entrance is on the east side, at the west end of Paseo Colón and just north of the Museo de Arte Costarricense. A tall statue of ex-president Leon Cortés marks the spot. Just beyond is a forest full of rainbow eucalyptus trees.

FÚTBOL

Estadio Nacional de Costa Rica

National Stadium of Costa Rica; Road 104, west side of Parque Metropolitano La Sabana; tel. 506/2549-0985

Fútbol (soccer, to Americans and Canadians) is the most popular sport in Costa Rica. San José is home to two of the country’s most visited stadiums. The Estadio Nacional de Costa Rica hosts the Costa Rican national fútbol team, the Selección Nacional. When La Sele, as they’re known, play in San José, there’s no bigger event in the city. Don red, white, and blue and ready yourself for wild fandom. Purchase tickets in advance; some games sell out.

Estadio Ricardo Saprissa Aymá

Ricardo Saprissa Aymá Stadium; Hwy. 32, 3.5 km (2.2 mi) north of Avenida 3; tel. 506/2240-0190

The Estadio Ricardo Saprissa Aymá is where San José’s city team, Saprissa (www.saprissa.com), plays games within the Liga Nacional de Fútbol (National Fútbol League). They’re the most popular regional team in the country, and they regularly rank at the top of the league. See the team’s website for an up-to-date match schedule or to purchase tickets ($9.50-75 pp).

Entertainment and Events

THE ARTS

Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica

National Theater of Costa Rica; Calle 5, adjacent to the Plaza de la Cultura; tel. 506/2010-1100; www.teatronacional.go.cr; 9am-5pm daily

San José is home to several small community theaters. However, top performances that catch the attention of most visitors are held at the Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica. The theater’s website displays updated events, including plays, cultural presentations, and performances by Costa Rica’s Latin Grammy-winning Orquesta Sinfónica Nacional (National Symphony Orchestra; www.cnm.go.cr).

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

September

Día de la Independencia

September 15, Costa Rica’s Día de la Independencia (Independence Day), is celebrated enthusiastically in San José with music and dance performances, parades, and fireworks. Expect closures of Paseo Colón and Avenida 2, as torchbearers (who carry a flame through Central America in honor of the holiday) take the route to Cartago. Banks and government offices close for the day, but other businesses and nearly all tourism operations function as per normal.

December

Festival de la Luz

Mid-month, you can catch the evening light parade Festival de la Luz (Festival of Light); it usually departs from the east side of the Parque Metropolitano La Sabana around 6pm. The parade travels east down Paseo Colón and Avenida 2 before ending near the Museo Nacional de Costa Rica.

Fiestas de Zapote

Christmas and New Year’s mean it’s time for the annual Fiestas de Zapote, San José’s contribution to the country’s fiestas cívicas (civic festivals). The lively event has fair rides, games, and food, but it also showcases traditions central to Costa Rica’s rural roots, like bull riding and topes (equestrian parades).

Shopping

Interesting stores and markets dot Costa Rica’s capital city, but most—including those listed in this guide—are in Central San José. It’s quite the cultural experience to see where locals shop and which products differ from those you see at home.

A word to the wise: Don’t barter. As a rule, Costa Ricans don’t lower prices significantly unless you make bulk purchases, and they tend to frown upon people who assume they’re entitled to a bargain.

MARKETS

Mercado Nacional de Artesanía y Pintura

National Market of Crafts and Paintings; south side of Parque de las Garantías Sociales; 8am-6:30pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-6pm Sun.

Offering a large selection of typical souvenirs including hats, shirts, keychains, bags, and more is the indoor Mercado Nacional de Artesanía y Pintura. The stalls of this bustling market sell similar products, and vendors compete for your cash. You’ll feel a bit like a pinball as you make your way through, bouncing back and forth between tables, sellers, and offers, but the adventure is a hoot.

Feria Verde

Green Market; east side of the fútbol field, 1 block north of Hotel Aranjuez; 7am-noon Sat.

Northeast of downtown is the city’s best farmers market, Feria Verde. This market may just be the happiest place in San José, where friendly residents turn out in droves to shop and mingle with their neighbors, listen to live music, and participate in yoga classes. Vendors will introduce you to their homemade, usually organic products, such as foods, drinks, plants, bath products, and crafts.

S Mercado Central

Central Market; bordered by Avenida 1, Calle 6, Avenida Central, and Calle 8; 6am-5pm Mon.-Sat.

The labyrinth of indoor vendors and narrow walkways that forms the Mercado Central is one of my favorite places in San José. It’s convoluted, stuffy, smelly, and noisy—but awesome nonetheless. The food and craft market, a mainstay of San José’s economy since 1880, sells essentials like coffee beans, fresh meat and fish, and sugary treats. There are buckets full of tropical flowers, bolts of textiles, dry sprigs of medicinal plants, and thousands of other odds and ends. The market houses a slew of souvenir stalls that sell wood items, pottery, jewelry, and trinkets; it also has several longstanding informal eateries that are treasured by locals.

PEDESTRIAN MALLS

Window-shopping in the downtown core couldn’t be easier thanks to the city’s handful of pedestrian malls. Closed to vehicular traffic, these boulevards are lined with clothing and department stores and filled with passersby. Sculptures and other art pieces, as well as occasional street performers, enliven the streets. The primary thoroughfare is Avenida Central (between Calle 9 and Calle 14). Avenida 4 (between Calle 9 and Calle 14) is an alternative that provides additional shopping opportunities, but it shouldn’t replace a walk down Avenida Central.

GALLERIES

Galería Namu

Avenida 7, between Calle 5 and Calle 7; tel. 506/2256-3412; www.galerianamu.com [URL inactive]; 9am-6:30pm Mon.-Sat., 1pm-5pm Sun. Jan.-Apr., 9am-6:30pm Mon.-Sat. May-Dec.

Established in 1998, Galería Namu has long been the country’s go-to shop for Indigenous art. The fair-trade gallery is chock-full of pieces crafted by members of each of Costa Rica’s Indigenous groups as well as groups from other countries. Best of all, the owners of the family-run gallery know the background and significance of each piece they sell.

Food

San José’s food scene is diverse, combining traditional Costa Rican foods and international cuisines. No matter what you’re craving, you can find it in the city, from chifrijo—San José’s specialty dish, which combines rice, beans, and fried pork rinds, among other fixings—to signature culinary choices from countries around the world.

In the same neighborhood, you can find top-notch restaurants helmed by esteemed and innovative chefs, and family-owned food stalls that stick to beloved recipes. Decor, atmosphere, prices, and service vary across San José’s eclectic mix of dining establishments. Try a few different types of places to get a taste of both ancestral San José and its cosmopolitan contemporary culinary scene.

Most San José hotels and many hostels include breakfast in their rates, so it’s unlikely you’ll need to find a place to eat first thing in the morning.

CENTRAL SAN JOSÉ

Costa Rican

Mercado Central

Central Market; bordered by Avenida 1, Calle 6, Avenida Central, and Calle 8; 6am-6pm Mon.-Sat.

The most authentic dining experience you can have in San José is to eat at one of the many sodas (traditional Costa Rican family restaurants) crammed inside Mercado Central. All boast a similar diner-style design, give off a laid-back vibe, and offer relatively quick service. A plateful of Costa Rican cuisine goes for $6-14 at most. Don’t concern yourself with seeking out the best: Just grab a chair, stool, or bench at one and give the place a go.

If you must have a starting point, the well-liked Soda Tala (tel. 506/2255-3794; 6am-6pm Mon.-Sat.; $3-6) has been around for decades. It’s a great place to try chorreadas (sweet corn pancakes) or tortillas con queso (tortillas with cheese).

For a refreshing treat, La Sorbetera de Lolo Mora (tel. 506/2256-5000; 10am-4:30pm Mon.-Sat.; $2-5), in business since 1901, serves clove-, cinnamon-, nutmeg-, and hibiscus-imbued homemade ice cream that has the consistency of a thick milkshake. Try it in a sugar cone—they’re homemade and delicious!

If all you need is a coffee, grab one at Cafetería Central (tel. 506/2222-1769; 7am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-6pm Sat.; $1-4), a café that grinds a variety of coffee beans on-site and lets you pick your favorite.

La Casa del Cacao

Calle 1, between Avenida 1 and Avenida Central; tel. 506/8777-2326; www.casadelcacao.net; 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat.; $2-6

At La Casa del Cacao, you can treat yourself to crepes, brownies, hot chocolate, and decadent chocolate bars. Each is prepared with chocolate produced at the eatery’s small chocolate factory. Sign up for an on-site chocolate workshop (10am daily; 1 hour; $30 adults, $20 under age 12) to learn about cacao processing and make your own chocolate.

S Silvestre

Avenida 11, 75 m (246 ft) east of Hwy. 32; tel. 506/2221-2465; www.restaurantesilvestre.com; noon-3pm and 6pm-10pm Mon.-Sat.; $26-35

Despite its somber exterior, Silvestre provides a modern, grand dining experience inside one of Barrio Amón’s historical properties. Here, you’ll either be seated at an elegantly set table in a damask-wallpapered dining salon under the glow of a chandelier or at a bistro-style table in an airy courtyard. Both settings are cozy spaces where you can comfortably enjoy the restaurant’s contemporary Costa Rican cuisine, which reinvents everyday meals—mainly meat and fish plates—by using staple ingredients and flavors in delicious and eye-catching new ways. Behind the innovative gastronomic expressions is the award-winning local chef Santiago Fernández Benedetto.

International

S Azotea Calle 7

Hotel Presidente; tel. 506/8350-1331; www.hotel-presidente.com; 4pm-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 4pm-11pm Fri.-Sat.; $13-23

For bocas (Costa Rica’s take on Spanish tapas) and light conversation, I like the rooftop Azotea Calle 7, a place that feels like two restaurants in one. Grab a cast-iron seat in the outdoor garden and you’ll be surrounded by bougainvillea plants and mountain views. Indoors, the restaurant is a chic lounge that fuses historical decor with industrial elements like exposed brick walls. Tasty dinners and drinks go down effortlessly in both comfortable settings. Seating is limited; reserve a table before you go.

Sapore Trattoria

Calle 13 and Hwy. 2; tel. 506/2222-8906; www.saporetrattoria.com; 11:30am-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 11:30am-11pm Fri.-Sat.; $18.50-27

For Italian food, try Sapore Trattoria. This place looks and feels like a classic Italian ristorante, with its vintage visage and small tables draped in traditional red-and-white checkered tablecloths. It sticks to signature Italian creations, like focaccia, pizza, calzone, pasta, and risotto, and also prepares a few meals around veal. Some pasta plates are flambéed tableside. Bottles of imported Italian wines and craft beer are served.

La Esquina de Buenos Aires

Calle 11 and Avenida 4; tel. 506/2223-1909; www.laesquinadebuenosaires.net; noon-3pm and 6pm-9:30pm Mon.-Thurs., noon-9:30pm Fri., noon-8:30pm Sat.-Sun.; $21-31

For an intimate dinner out on the town, choose La Esquina de Buenos Aires. This classy little Argentinean place has a sophisticated vibe, South American music, and fabulous pairings of food and beverages thanks to the restaurant’s extensive drinks menu. Most sought-after are the meat dishes, especially the lomito (beef tenderloin).

Vegetarian and Vegan

Soda Vegetariana Susbida

Calle 5 at Avenida 7; tel. 506/8886-9437; 11:30am-4pm Mon.-Sat.; $3-7

If you like Asian cuisine, you’ll love inexpensive and flavorful Soda Vegetariana Susbida, which fuses its dishes with vegetarian ingredients. Meal and snack options include soups with dumplings and noodles, chop suey and fried rice with vegetables, and vegetarian sushi. You could easily walk past this place, a hole-in-the-wall with barely enough room for a handful of two-seat tables, without knowing the value that lies inside.

Café Rojo

Avenida 7, 20 m (66 ft) east of Calle 3; tel. 506/2221-2425; www.caferojo.net; noon-8:30pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-8:30pm Sat.-Sun.; $6.50-12

Fresh and filling servings are provided by the Vietnamese-inspired Café Rojo, a quirky, inviting spot just north of downtown that constructs healthy meals prepared with love. Pick your base (a noodle bowl, a sandwich, a rice plate, or a salad) and add your veggies (or meats, for nonvegetarians). Eating a meal loaded with proteins and good fats, you’ll feel righteous—and less guilty when you top off your visit with a slice of either the café’s famous carrot cake with cardamom frosting or the vegan chocolate cake with coconut ganache.

EAST SAN JOSÉ

Costa Rican

S Sikwa

Calle 41, 70 m (230 ft) south of Hwy. 2; tel. 506/7093-1662; www.sikwacostarica.com; 6pm-10pm Tues.-Sat.; $17-26.50

Before opening Sikwa in 2018, revered chef Pablo Bonilla spent four years studying the gastronomic traditions of Costa Rica’s Indigenous groups. Today, his restaurant is the apotheosis of lessons learned; in taste and presentation, the fanciful food pays homage to the people who inspire it, and with every dish served, the restaurant supports the Indigenous communities from which many of the ingredients are sourced. Choose from a selection of appetizers or mains; most pay tribute to Costa Rica’s native origins with the flavors of pejibaye (peach palm fruit), palmito (heart of palm), fruta de pan (breadfruit), carambola (star fruit), plantain, or coconut. There is also a seven-course degustation menu ($95 pp). The intimate dining space and urbane clientele give Sikwa a sophisticated vibe, but the place isn’t stuffy. Reservations are strongly recommended.

Franchises for Foodies

San José boasts a repertoire of diverse restaurants like no other place in the country. Unique independent restaurants are all around, as are several staple franchises that locals frequent when hunger strikes. Keep your eyes open for the below eateries; they’ve already won over many Ticos, and they may impress you too.

• Spoon (www.spooncr.com): With its delicious platters of Costa Rican and international dishes, Spoon offers one of the best menus I’ve come across, full of rich meals, healthy options, and a long list of drinks and desserts. It also identifies which dishes include common allergens and ingredients associated with digestive system upsets, making it ideal for cautious eaters.

• Rosti (www.rosti.cr): This eat-in restaurant never disappoints with its pollo asado (roasted chicken) cooked rotisserie-style. Other meal options include chicken fajitas, chicken salads, chicken wings, and arroz con pollo (rice with chicken).

• Musmanni (www.musmanni.com): My favorite of the chains, this delectable-smelling bakery always has fresh baked goods on hand, including artisanal breads, muffins, cakes, and costillas (turnover-style pastries often filled with apple, pineapple, guava, or other fruits). Treats here are best ordered para llevar (to go).

• POPS (www.pops.co.cr): A scoop of one of the 32 flavors of ice cream at POPS is fabulous on a hot day. Look past the common flavors to rare ones inspired by Costa Rican food and drink, like leche condensada con higos (condensed milk with figs), rompope (an eggnog-like drink), or dulce de leche (a caramel-like confection). There are also lactose-free shakes made with coconut water.

San José is rife with international food and drink chains. If you fancy a taste of the familiar, you’ll find Papa John’s, Kentucky Fried Chicken, Pizza Hut, Taco Bell, Burger King, McDonald’s, Subway, Quiznos, Starbucks, and other recognizable franchises in the region.

Cafés

Caféoteca

Calle 31 and Avenida 5; tel. 506/2253-8426; 8am-7pm Tues.-Sun.; $6-15

Barrio Escalante contains one of San José’s best cafés: Caféoteca. A small, trendy place to chill out, Caféoteca provides an above-average coffee experience. It uses only the freshest beans available from a pool of coffee producers, prepares coffee 10 different ways using different techniques, and employs knowledgeable and passionate baristas to pour you the perfect cup.

Vegetarian and Vegan

S Árbol de Seda

Calle 5 and Avenida 7; tel. 506/2281-0513; 9am-5pm Tues.-Wed. and Sun., 9am-10pm Thurs.-Sat.; $9-15

My favorite place for plant-based food on the east side of San José is Árbol de Seda, a cute little vegetarian restaurant that graciously promotes inclusivity with its pride-inspired decor. This place whips up tasty pub grub, including quesadillas, burritos, burgers, pizzas, and paninis, with traces of Peruvian, Asian, and Mediterranean cuisine. The generous plates pack plenty of protein, and many are vegan. Grab a table by the window where you can catch a glimpse of life in Barrio Escalante while enjoying your meal.

WEST SAN JOSÉ

International

Grano de Oro

Calle 30 and Avenida 4; tel. 506/2255-3322; www.hotelgranodeoro.com; 7am-10pm daily; $19-29

Worldly in its architecture and design, the Victorian-period restaurant Grano de Oro is in the hotel of the same name. Offering classic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor seating areas, the fine-dining restaurant serves top-notch French and Mediterranean fare like pato con higo carmelizado (duck with caramelized fig) and cerdo en salsa tamarindo (pork in tamarind sauce). If you’re a wine connoisseur, the hotel has one of the city’s best wine cellars.

Bars and Nightlife

San José’s bar scene offers different strokes for different folks. You’re guaranteed to find a place that fits your style, and several more that will introduce you to new sights, tastes, vibes, music, and dance moves. There are some sketchy dive bars that are unsafe to visit. To avoid these, stick to venues recommended in this guide.

The Tico Times (www.ticotimes.net), an online English-language newspaper geared toward expats, posts evening events in their Arts & Culture and Dining & Nightlife sections. Spanish-language resources for events happening around the city and around the country include local newspaper La Nación (www.nacion.com), the leading news station Teletica (www.teletica.com; channel 7 countrywide), and the Sistema de Información Cultural Costa Rica (http://si.cultura.cr). Their websites are enabled to work with Google Translate, which can provide basic translations.

NIGHTLIFE DISTRICTS

The best nightlife venues are in East San José and Central San José. If you prefer to barhop leisurely, the community of Barrio Escalante (a 6-square-block area northeast of Avenida 3 and Calle 23, in East San José) is one of the safest places to do so. It tends to attract a mature crowd. The lively student-filled University District (bordered by Hwy. 2, Calle 57, and Calle 61/Calle de la Amargura, in East San José) provides another decent cluster of bars, but its crowds can get rowdy.

Additional bars are scattered around Barrio La California (bordered by Hwy. 2, Calle 21, Avenida 3, and Calle 29), where Central San José fuses with East San José. In the north of the city, a group of about 20 bars forms the Centro Comercial El Pueblo (Calle 9, just north of Road 108), but this area can be dangerous. Don’t go unless you’re part of a group, ideally with a local who knows the place.

TOURS

If you’d feel more comfortable hitting the town with a guide or if you’re simply looking to meet new people, hop on the double-decker VIP City Bus (tel. 506/2282-0240; www.vipcitybus.com) and take the VIP Night Tour (6:45pm daily; 3 hours; $78 pp). On this evening drive around the city, you’ll enjoy drinks on the bus, make stops to explore a few notable sights on foot, including Plaza de la Cultura and Monumento Nacional, and eat dinner at a local restaurant, where additional drinks and shots are served. Food and beverages are included in the cost of the tour, as is transportation from San José hotels.

Provided you’re not opposed to enjoying a few drinks during the day, the San José Cantina Experience (11am and 2pm daily; 2.5 hours; $51 pp; min. age 18) provides an alternative to exploring the city after dark. Led by San José experts ChepeCletas (tel. 506/8849-8316; www.chepecletas.com), the guided daytime bar crawl visits three traditional watering holes that embody the city’s folksy pub culture. A complimentary drink is served at each.

CENTRAL SAN JOSÉ

Pubs and Bars

El Social

corner of Avenida 3 and Calle 9; tel. 506/8437-6570; www.elsocialcr.com; noon-midnight Mon.-Thurs., noon-2:30am Fri.-Sat., noon-10pm Sun.

The small and sometimes jam-packed El Social occupies a building that dates to the late 1800s and originally contained one of the city’s first cantinas (old-fashioned bars). It shows off a mix of old and new San José, with its handsome tattered brick walls and traditional patterned tile floor juxtaposed against colorful art, a sleek bar, and modern lighting. Top-shelf spirits draw a mature crowd.

Craic Irish Pub

Hwy. 2 and Calle 25A; tel. 506/8979-4010; 6pm-midnight Tues.-Thurs., 6pm-2am Fri.-Sat.

The Craic Irish Pub captures the essence of a true Irish bar. It caters to local workers fresh off a shift, boasts an atmosphere of camaraderie, and proudly overuses Kelly green and shamrocks for its decor. It’s also the best place in the city to order a stout, with several varieties of this ale to choose from.

Mercado La California

Calle 21, between Avenida Central and Avenida 1; 8pm-3am Thurs.-Sat., 6pm-1:30am Sun.

For drinks outdoors, don’t miss the beer garden at Mercado La California, nicknamed El Mercadito. Young locals gather indoors and on the outdoor courtyard, tucked away from the street, under twinkling lights to enjoy the secluded hot spot’s assortment of beers and cocktails, DJs, and occasional concerts.

LGBTQ Clubs

La Avispa

Calle 1, halfway between Avenida 8 and Avenida 10; tel. 506/2223-5343; 8pm-6am Thurs.-Sat., 5pm-6am Sun., entrance until 3am; cover charge $3.50

La Avispa is the city’s top gay and lesbian bar. The large club has been around since the late 1970s, offers dance floors that pump to a mix of electronic and Latin music, and has a quieter upstairs area that mimics a sports bar. Guest DJs and performers put on wildly entertaining shows.

Live Music

El Observatorio

Calle 23, halfway between Avenida Central and Avenida 1; tel. 506/2223-0725; www.elobservatorio.tv; 6am-2am Tues.-Sat.

El Observatorio hosts all kinds of live music events in an art-filled venue with a distinguished vibe.

El Bar del Patio

Avenida Central, halfway between Calle 7 and Calle 9; tel. 506/2222-5022; www.balmoral.co.cr; 4pm-10pm Mon.-Thurs., 4pm-11pm Fri.-Sat.

Overlooking the pedestrian boulevard on Avenida Central from the second floor of Hotel Balmoral, El Bar del Patio is a polished but casual bar that has live music on Wednesday and Friday-Saturday evenings.

EAST SAN JOSÉ

Pubs and Bars

Apotecario

corner of Avenida 9 and Calle 31; tel. 506/8891-0112; www.apotecario.cr; 11:30am-10pm Mon.-Wed., 9:30am-11pm Thurs.-Sat., 9:30am-8pm Sun.

For superlative cocktails with complex flavors, check out Apotecario. The refined but comfortable bar demonstrates next-level mixology with its perfect execution of IBA-official drinks, like the Penicillin—a smoked cocktail that fuses whiskey, tequila, ginger, and lemon—and imaginative drinks that feature the bar’s own tropical liqueurs, each one produced in-house. The bar also creates its own beer and kombucha, so go with an open mind and an interest in trying something new.

Costa Rica Beer Factory

Calle 33 at Avenida 7; tel. 506/8447-9732; www.costaricabeerfactory.com; noon-1am daily

Just about every kind of beer imaginable can be had at the laid-back Costa Rica Beer Factory. It isn’t a pub per se but rather a casual, open-air spot where you can quench your thirst with international imports, Costa Rican domestic beers, and local microbrews. An IPA, Irish red ale, lager, sweet stout, and cider-like fruit beer are manufactured on-site at the factory’s award-winning brewery.

Dancing

Colonia

corner of Avenida 11 and Calle 33; tel. 506/4030-4418; www.colonia.cr; noon-10pm Sun.-Wed., noon-midnight Thurs.-Sat.

Part of the restaurant and bar Colonia transforms into a dance floor a few nights a week, where you can practice your salsa, rumba, and bachata moves, or get a feel for the dances by watching others perform them.

Accommodations

San José poses several safety concerns after dark. It pays to choose a secure lodging, so consider splurging on at least a mid-range place. Gated entrances, security staff and cameras, guarded parking lots, and functional room locks—ideally with dead bolts and swinging door guards—should be on your checklist. It’s acceptable to ask to see an available room before making a last-minute reservation. Security information is not generally available online, so contact the hotel to clarify any safety concerns before making a reservation.

CENTRAL SAN JOSÉ

$50-100

Hotel Santo Tomas

Avenida 7, between Calle 3 and Calle 5; tel. 506/2255-0448; www.hotelsantotomas.com; $67 s/d

The 25-room Hotel Santo Tomas, a block north of Parque Morazán, is one of several historical buildings that fill the vicinity’s Barrio Amón. Hallways and stairways have decorative tile floors, rooms come with antique dressers and mirrors, and beds are adorned with carved wooden headboards. Wrought iron elements like railings are everywhere you look. The hotel has a pool and a jetted tub, a gym, and an open-air restaurant that overlooks the courtyard, where a hot breakfast is served. Stay here and you’ll feel like you’ve traveled a few centuries back in time.

Hotel Aranjuez

Calle 19 at Avenida 11; tel. 506/2256-1825; www.hotelaranjuez.com; $69 s/d

In the charming Aranjuez district, roughly where Central San José meets East San José, you’ll find Hotel Aranjuez. This five-building collection of 35 rooms built in the 1930s displays vintage flair in the form of clapboard walls, French doors and windows, and tranquil courtyards. Rooms sleep 1-4 people and are comfortable and relaxing, lit dimly, and decorated in soothing earth tones. Foodies will love the hotel’s substantial gourmet breakfast buffet; it’s worth the cost of the room. The in-house baker is phenomenal.

$150-250

Hotel Presidente

Avenida Central at Calle 7; tel. 506/2010-0000; www.hotel-presidente.com; standard $150 s/d, superior $180 s/d, concept $225 s/d

If you intend to spend your time in San José sightseeing around the city’s core on foot, stay at the high-rise Hotel Presidente. You can’t beat its location on a pedestrian boulevard within walking distance of most attractions in the city. Currently undergoing renovations, the hotel’s 75 sleek, well-appointed standard rooms (for 1-4 people), superior rooms (for 1-2 people), and stylish artful concept rooms (for 1-2 people) already warrant a stay, but they’ll soon provide a fresh new look and feel. Climb the red spiral staircase up to the rooftop and you’ll find Azotea Calle 7, a fabulous restaurant and bar.

S Gran Hotel

Avenida Central, on the west side of the Plaza de la Cultura; tel. 506/2103-9000; www.curiocollection.com; $210 s/d

In the center of the city, you’ll find the perfect blend of luxury, modernity, and historical preservation in the Gran Hotel. It’s worth the splurge at this high-end, 79-room, five-story hotel. Built in 1930, it closed in 2016 for a complete overhaul and opened in mid-2018 as a relic reborn. Upscale offerings include pillow-top mattresses in spotless and streamlined rooms, a fabulous on-site restaurant and piano bar, valet parking ($30 per night), and a top-floor panorama accessible via a glass elevator: Don’t miss the view at night when the city sparkles with twinkling lights.

EAST SAN JOSÉ

Under $50

S Chillout Hostel

Calle 37 between Avenida 13 and Avenida 15; tel. 506/7177-8715; www.chilloutescalante.com; dorm $29 s, private room $75 s/d, cash only

Fresh-feeling, full of color, and fun—but not a loud party hostel—is Chillout, an aptly named hostel with a funky, laid-back, 1970s-inspired vibe. This newish hostel, opened in 2022, is conveniently located on the northeastern edge of the hip and prominent Barrio Escalante and within walking distance of several of the neighborhood’s best establishments. There are eight-, six-, and four-bed mixed dorms and four-bed female-only dorms, all equipped with bunks and privacy curtains, plus a few private rooms (some with shared baths) that sleep 1-4 guests.

WEST SAN JOSÉ

$100-150

S La Sabana Hotel and Apartments

Calle 48, 150 m (164 yd) north of Road 104; tel. 506/2220-2422; www.hotelandapartmentslasabana.com; room $100 s/d, apartment $125 s/d

My favorite accommodation in the west end is the quaint two-story motel La Sabana Hotel and Apartments. You’ll forget you’re downtown at this relaxing oasis, which wraps around a leafy mosaic-adorned courtyard with a swimming pool. A variety of suite-style apartments and standard rooms with one queen or two single beds are offered. Each features striking dark-wood furniture, large wardrobes, and comfortable beds; apartments also have kitchens and dining areas. Extras—like kind and helpful service, decorative flora, chaise lounges around the pool, complimentary airport transfer service, and a comprehensive breakfast buffet—add unbeatable value.

Over $250

Hotel Grano de Oro

Calle 30 and Avenida 4; tel. 506/2255-3322; www.hotelgranodeoro.com; $270 s/d

Hotel Grano de Oro is a century-old Costa Rican home full of history and heart. It displays exquisite architecture, provides modern facilities and amenities, and oozes sophistication. The 34 classy rooms in the upscale boutique hotel, which shows off a self-described tropical Victorian style, are immaculately kept and feature luxurious touches like high-quality linens and fine decades-old furniture. The rooftop terrace with a double jetted tub is a great outdoor getaway within the confines of the mansion.

Information and Services

MEDICAL AND EMERGENCY SERVICES

San José has several hospitals. Widely regarded as two of the country’s best are the private Hospital Clínica Bíblica (Avenida 14, between Calle Central and Calle 1; tel. 506/2522-1000; 24 hours daily) and Hospital Metropolitano (Calle 14 at Avenida 8; tel. 506/2521-9595; 24 hours daily).

Additional hospitals include Hospital Rafael Ángel Calderón Guardia (1 block north of Parque Nacional; tel. 506/2212-1000; 24 hours daily) and Hospital San Juan de Dios (east end of Paseo Colón; tel. 506/2547-8000; 24 hours daily) in Central San José, and Hospital México (Hwy. 1, 2.5 km/1.5 mi northwest of Hwy. 2; tel. 506/2242-6700; 24 hours daily) in West San José.

Pharmacies

There’s a pharmacy on almost every street in downtown San José. Most are open from at least 8am to 7pm daily. Additional pharmacies can be found in Mall San Pedro (in the east end of the city) and along Paseo Colón (in the west end of the city).

Police Stations

Police stations (24 hours daily) are spread out around the city. You’ll find them in Central San José northeast of downtown (Calle 15, 500 m/0.3 mi north of Parque Nacional; tel. 506/2222-4171) and northwest of downtown (Calle 20, 200 m/219 yd north of Hwy. 2; tel. 506/2257-3067), in East San José (Calle 37, 100 m/109 yd south of Avenida Central; tel. 506/2225-6750), and in West San José (Calle 72, 2 blocks southeast of Hospital México; tel. 506/2296-7332).

VISITOR INFORMATION

Instituto Costarricense de Turismo

Costa Rican Institute of Tourism; Avenida Central, between Calle 1 and Calle 3; tel. 506/2299-5800; www.ict.go.cr; 8am-4pm Mon.-Fri.

The government-run Instituto Costarricense de Turismo is the official source of everything tourism-related in the country. At the office in downtown San José, you can get your questions answered, pick up free maps and brochures, or, if need be, issue a complaint against a private tourism company. Esencial Costa Rica (www.visitcostarica.com [URL inactive]) is the institute’s online presence; the website offers a wealth of information for first-time visitors.

Most other establishments in San José and elsewhere in the country that offer tourism-related information and sell tourist services are private businesses.

BANKS AND ATMS

If you need a bank or an ATM, there are plenty to choose from in the city. The Banco Nacional (tel. 506/2212-2000; 8:30am-3:45pm Mon.-Fri.) on Calle 4 between Avenida 1 and Avenida 3 is a cinch to spot because it’s one of the tallest buildings in the downtown corridor.

Banks that are convenient to access in other areas include West San José’s Banco de Costa Rica (Paseo Colón, 100 m/109 yd east of Parque Metropolitano La Sabana; tel. 506/2211-1111; 9am-3:30pm Mon.-Fri.) and East San José’s Banco Nacional (Hwy. 2 and Calle 57; tel. 506/2212-2000; 8:30am-3:45pm Mon.-Fri.).

MAIL AND SHIPPING SERVICES

Costa Rica’s central post office is the Edificio Central de Correos y Telégrafos (Calle 2 at Avenida 3; tel. 506/2223-6918; 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-noon Sat.).

An office for DHL (Paseo Colón, 550 m/601 yd east of the Parque Metropolitano La Sabana; 8:30am-5:30pm Mon.-Fri.) is in West San José.

SUPERMARKETS

Supermarkets are all around San José. The easiest to get to are Peri (Calle 3, near the Plaza de la Cultura; 6:30am-8:30pm Mon.-Thurs., 6:30am-9pm Fri.-Sat., 9am-6pm Sun.) and Palí (Avenida Central, 150 m/164 yd west of the Museo Nacional de Costa Rica; 7am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-9pm Sun.) in Central San José, Auto Mercado (beside the gas station at Avenida Central and Calle 37; 8am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-8pm Sun.) in East San José, and AM PM (Paseo Colón, 300 m/328 yd east of Parque Metropolitano La Sabana; tel. 506/2105-2400; 6am-midnight daily) in West San José.

GAS STATIONS

Gas stations dot the San José region. The easiest to access are on Highway 2 on your way into or out of the city. Coming from the west, there’s a station at Paseo Colón and Calle 24 (800 m/0.5 mi east of Parque Metropolitano La Sabana) in West San José. Coming from the east, there’s a station at Highway 2 and Calle 37 (600 m/656 yd west of Hwy. 39) in East San José.

Transportation

GETTING THERE

San José is the most central transportation hub in Costa Rica. Transfer services depart from the city throughout the day, every day, for destinations around the country. Nearly everywhere your wanderlust takes you in Costa Rica, you can get there via San José.

Air

Alajuela’s Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría (Juan Santamaría International Airport, SJO) is sometimes referred to as the San José airport, given its proximity to the capital. Most travelers headed for San José fly into Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría, either on an international flight or on a domestic flight operated by SANSA Airlines (tel. 506/2290-4100; www.flysansa.com) from one of 12 destinations around the country, and arrange ground transportation into the city. (For more information on the airport, see the Central Valley and Highlands chapter; click here.)

Car

Driving to San José is easy. Highway 1, Highway 2, Highway 27, and Highway 32 provide direct access to the area from multiple directions.

San José is a 20-km (12.4-mi), 30-minute drive southeast from downtown Alajuela via Highway 1. From downtown Liberia, it’s a 220-km (136-mi), 3.5-hour drive southeast on Highway 1.

Bus

Several of San José’s bus stations are in rough areas. Always remain vigilant and keep an eye on your belongings. If you must stow luggage in overhead racks or compartments under the bus, keep your identification, money, and any valuables with you at your seat. Take a taxi rather than walk to and from any bus station, especially at night.

The bus terminals that foreigners use most often are:

• Terminal 7-10 (Avenida 7, between Calle 8 and Calle 10; www.terminal7-10.com [URL inactive]): Provides transport to the La Fortuna and Monteverde region, most of the Nicoya Peninsula, and Jacó in the central Pacific region.

• Terminal del Atlántico Norte (sometimes referred to as Terminal MEPE; Avenida 9 and Calle 12): Two bus companies use this terminal. MEPE (www.mepecr.com [URL inactive]) provides transport to Caribbean destinations southeast of Limón, and Grupo Blanco (www.grupoblanco.cr) provides transport to select destinations in the central Pacific region and Puerto Jiménez on the Osa Peninsula.

• Terminal Tracopa (Calle 5, between Avenida 18 and Road 215; www.tracopacr.com): Provides transport to destinations in the central Pacific region and on the Osa Peninsula.

Additional terminals serve other areas of the country, including the Gran Terminal del Caribe (Calle Central at Avenida 15), which provides transport to Caribbean destinations Limón and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí; Terminal Coca-Cola (Avenida 1, between Calle 16 and Calle 18), which provides transport to many areas in the Central Valley and Highlands; Terminal Empresarios Unidos (Calle 16 and Avenida 12; www.eupsacr.com), which provides transport to Puntarenas; Terminal Transtusa (Calle 13 at Avenida 6; www.grupotranstusa.com), which provides transport to Cartago and Turrialba; and Terminal Tralapa (Avenida 5, between Calle 20 and Calle 22) and Terminal Pulmitan (Calle 24, 100 m/109 yd north of Avenida 5), both of which provide transport to destinations in Guanacaste.

Connections between Alajuela’s Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría and San José take place at Terminal Tuasa (Avenida 2 and Calle 12; www.grupotuasa.com).

Organized Tour

Several adventure and nature tours, such as ones offered by Exploradores Outdoors (tel. 506/2222-6262; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com; 5:30am-9pm daily) and Desafio Adventure Company (tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com) include post-tour onward transportation to San José from a variety of destinations. White-water rafting tours, safari float tours, and multiday Tortuguero expeditions can be arranged to offer a pickup from your hotel in Alajuela, Turrialba, La Fortuna, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, Tortuguero, Cahuita, or Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, then a drop-off at your hotel in San José.

Private Transfer Service

Private transfer service vehicles travel from all corners of the country to San José. Fares vary significantly by route and service provider. Fares are around $200 from La Fortuna, $275 from Monteverde, $250 from Liberia, $300 from beach towns on the northern Pacific coast, $320 from Nosara, $290 from Sámara, $250 from Montezuma, $275 from Santa Teresa or Malpaís, $145 from Jacó, $200 from Manuel Antonio, $260-320 from the Costa Ballena, $360 from Sierpe, $460 from Puerto Jiménez, and $250 from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

• From La Fortuna: Desafio Adventure Company (tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com) or Ride Costa Rica (tel. 506/2469-2020; www.ridecr.com)

• From Monteverde: Faro Travel (tel. 506/2645-6564; www.farotravelcostarica.com)

• From the northern Pacific region: Ecotrans Costa Rica (tel. 506/2654-5151; www.ecotranscostarica.com) or Tamarindo Transfers & Tours (tel. 506/2653-4444; www.tamarindoshuttle.com)

• From the northern Nicoya Peninsula: Terratour (tel. 506/2682-0242; www.terratournosara.com), Zuma Tours (tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net), or Sámara Adventures (tel. 506/2656-0920; www.samaraadventures.com)

• From the southern Nicoya Peninsula: Zuma Tours (tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net) or Tropical Tours Shuttles (tel. 506/2640-1900; www.tropicaltourshuttles.com)

• From the central Pacific region: SAMA Transfers (tel. 506/8303-4666; www.samatransfers.com) or Blue Horizon Costa Rica (tel. 506/2277-9292; www.bluehorizoncostarica.com)

• From the Osa Peninsula: Costa Rica Shuttle (tel. 506/4000-1040; www.costaricashuttle.com)

• From the Caribbean region: Caribe Shuttle (tel. 506/2750-0626; www.caribeshuttle.com) or Exploradores Outdoors (tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com)

Shared Shuttle Service

Interbus (Road 204 at Hwy. 39; tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com; 8am-6pm Mon.-Sat.), one of the country’s most well-known and respected shared shuttle service providers, is based in San José. Interbus covers routes to San José from La Fortuna, Monteverde, Liberia, Rincón de la Vieja, Playas del Coco, Playa Hermosa (northern Pacific coast), Potrero, Playa Flamingo, Brasilito, Tamarindo, Nosara, Sámara, Carrillo, Montezuma, Santa Teresa, Malpaís, Jacó, Playa Hermosa (central Pacific coast), Manuel Antonio, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, and Manzanillo. One-way service costs $50-85 per adult. Children under age 12 pay half the adult fare. The transportation of kayaks and bicycles is not permitted. Surfboards are allowed but require the payment of an extra luggage fee ($15).

Additional shared shuttle service providers are based in other destinations. Reliable companies that can shuttle you to San José include Ride Costa Rica (tel. 506/2469-2020; www.ridecr.com), Tamarindo Transfers & Tours (tel. 506/2653-4444; www.tamarindoshuttle.com), Sámara Adventures (tel. 506/2656-0920; www.samaraadventures.com), Zuma Tours (tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net), Tropical Tours Shuttles (tel. 506/2640-1900; www.tropicaltourshuttles.com), and Caribe Shuttle (tel. 506/2750-0626; www.caribeshuttle.com). Their prices hover around the rates set by Interbus. All shuttles, including those operated by Interbus, offer drop-offs at San José hotels.

GETTING AROUND

San José’s downtown is easy to walk around. Most streets have sidewalks. In congested areas, you’ll walk shoulder to shoulder with Ticos. Pedestrian-only streets in the downtown corridor, most notably Avenida Central (between Calle 9 and Calle 14) and Avenida 4 (between Calle 9 and Calle 14) provide significant roaming space, freedom from noisy vehicles, and air that is less polluted. Be careful stepping off curbsides onto streets; San José drivers aren’t always cautious and courteous, nor do they always acknowledge a pedestrian’s right of way.

Bus

To get around San José by bus, take one of two bus lines that loop outward from the city’s center. The western loop travels around Parque Metropolitano La Sabana and the downtown core. Get off at Parque Central if you wish to explore downtown. The eastern loop connects Mall San Pedro (Hwy. 2 and Hwy. 39) to the downtown core. Get off at Avenida Central and Calle 9, one block east of Hotel Presidente, if you wish to explore downtown. On both routes, buses run regularly (usually every 8-10 minutes, 5am-11pm daily) and charge $0.50-0.75 (300 colones) pp. Payment should be made in colones.

Car

Driving through the city, primarily around the downtown core, is a pain. One-way roads, pedestrian-only boulevards, bumper-to-bumper traffic, and carefree motorcycles (which zip between car lanes; check your blind spot regularly) make the feat stressful. These obstacles can also turn the 6-km (3.7-mi) drive between West San José and East San José into a seemingly never-ending journey.

Parking lots are scattered around the city, but they can be risky to use; your rental car may get damaged or blocked in by another vehicle if you park in one. If you must have a car for your time in the city, select lodging that provides private parking. If possible, keep the car there for the duration of your stay and walk, take a taxi, or use the public bus system to get to wherever you need to go.

To help combat traffic and air pollution in the downtown core, the government bans vehicles with particular license plate numbers from driving through the city 6am-7pm on certain weekdays. While rental cars aren’t exempt, most agencies obtain permissions that allow their customers to skirt the rule. If in doubt, have your rental agency confirm whether you’re required to abide by the law.

Taxi

Most hotels and restaurants will call you a cab if you need one. Alternately, you can hail one yourself almost anywhere in town; you’ll find many by the Teatro Nacional and between Parque Central and the Catedral Metropolitana. Be sure that the driver turns on the vehicle’s maría (meter) and that the fare displayed is the current base rate. The going rates for a taxi are 920-1,015 colones (approximately $1.75-1.90) per kilometer. It is common (and legal) for rides after 10pm to include a 20 percent surcharge.

Central Valley and Highlands

HIGHLIGHTS

MAP: CENTRAL VALLEY AND HIGHLANDS

ORIENTATION

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Itinerary Ideas

ALAJUELA AND VICINITY IN TWO DAYS

A WHIRLWIND TOUR OF CARTAGO AND TURRIALBA

Alajuela

MAP: ALAJUELA

SIGHTS

SPECTATOR SPORTS

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

SHOPPING

FOOD

ACCOMMODATIONS

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

GETTING THERE

Volcán Poás

PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN POÁS

POASITO AND VARA BLANCA

BAJOS DEL TORO

Cartago and Turrialba

CARTAGO

S PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN IRAZÚ

MAP: ROAD-TRIPPING AROUND THE VALLE DE OROSI

TURRIALBA

S Parque Nacional Chirripó

PLANNING YOUR TREK

HIKING

Highlights

Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.

S Explore the Rescate Wildlife Rescue Center to see some of the 2,700 animals that the wildlife center rescues every year (click here).

S See how coffee beans are harvested, dried, and made into the beloved brew on a coffee tour (click here).

S Admire beautiful waterfalls and diverse wildlife at La Paz Waterfall Gardens (click here).

S Hike off the beaten path and swim in a blue-hued stream at the enchanting Cataratas Las Gemelas (click here).

S Peer over the edge of a deep crater at Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú, home to Costa Rica’s tallest volcano (click here).

S Go bird-watching around San Gerardo de Dota and try to spot an elusive quetzal (click here).

S Summit Costa Rica’s highest peak in Parque Nacional Chirripó (click here).

Outside Costa Rica’s capital city, the land rises in all directions, a 360-degree wall of mountains and volcanoes. The interior basin, known as the Central Valley, and the slopes of the Central Highlands beyond contain more than two-thirds of the country’s population, counting San José’s residents. Spread out across populous cities, like Alajuela, Cartago, and Turrialba, and sprawling charming communities, including Poasito, Vara Blanca, and Bajos del Toro, are Ticos who preserve Costa Rica’s heritage through cultural events, religious ceremonies, and traditional cuisines. Most will tell you that this region—smack-dab in the middle of the country with a rugged exterior and a heart of gold—is authentic Costa Rica.

The region’s uneven terrain is a thrilling landscape. Dramatic vistas of rolling hills, deep canyons, volcanic craters, and mountain ridges abound, giving restaurants and accommodations with front-row seats an excuse to boost their prices. The panoramas are almost always worth paying extra for. In some places, the land is rough, and cliff-side roads are precarious and exhilarating. In others, the undulating countryside forms geometric patterns and grids, especially among the miles of vegetable plantations.

Coffee, which helps support the country’s economy and is the pride of many Ticos, was first grown in the Central Valley. Today, several plantations and roasteries dot the area; tours of them are some of the most sought-after experiences in the region. Head out to a coffee farm or one of several other attractions scattered around the valley. Or just tuck yourself into the highlands and relax in a peaceful mountainside setting surrounded by Costa Rica’s natural beauty.

ORIENTATION

The oval Central Valley engulfs the tourist-friendly cities of Alajuela, Cartago, and Turrialba, as well as the capital city. Clockwise around the valley are the Central Highlands: the vicinities of Alajuela to the immediate northwest, Poás to the northwest beyond Alajuela, and Cartago and Turrialba to the southeast. Each highland region is elevated above the valley and stretches into mountainous territory. Near the region’s center is the Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría, Costa Rica’s main airport.

The region is the primary jumping-off point to destinations throughout the country, including the Caribbean coast, the central Pacific coast, Guanacaste, the Nicoya Peninsula, and the inland region that contains La Fortuna and Monteverde. The fast-paced Carretera Interamericana (Inter-American Highway), also known as the Pan-American Highway or Highway 1, Highway 23, Highway 27 (sometimes referred to as the Autopista del Sol, or in places, Autopista Próspero Fernández), Highway 3, Highway 39, and Highway 2 expedite east-west travel into and out of the valley. Most north-south routes are country roads.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

To fully cover this region and hit all its must-sees, you’ll need 3-4 days. Because many travelers prefer to allot most of their time to adventure or beach destinations elsewhere in the country, visiting the Central Valley and Highlands requires selectivity. Plan to spend 1 day exploring the region at the start or end of your trip. This is a large area, and traveling across it can be time-consuming. I recommend choosing one part of the region to better focus your time—either the northwestern or the southeastern half. To get the most bang for your buck, sign up for a one-day guided tour that visits several attractions.

Another option is to take a DIY approach and devise your own road trip. In the northwestern half of the region, by Volcán Poás, start early in the morning and you can squeeze in a hike to the waterfalls at La Paz Waterfall Gardens or Cataratas Las Gemelas, a trip to Sarchí to watch traditional oxcarts being made at fábricas de carretas (oxcart factories), and a stop at the Rescate Wildlife Rescue Center near Alajuela.

On the southeastern side, in a day you can peer into a volcanic crater at Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú near Cartago, admire picturesque scenes around the Valle de Orosi, and learn about archaeological discoveries at the Monumento Nacional Guayabo in Turrialba. Also accessible from the region beyond the southeastern end are overnight trips to San Gerardo de Dota, a prime locale for bird-watching, and multiday excursions to Parque Nacional Chirripó, the preferred destination of fit and fearless hikers who want to stand atop Costa Rica’s highest point.

If you’re mad about coffee, you can take your pick of coffee plantations and roasteries to tour. Most of the region’s coffee tours are two hours or shorter, making them an easy addition to tight itineraries.

The event calendar of this area is never empty. If there’s a cultural celebration you’d like to experience, take its scheduling into account when planning your trip.

Weather and Transportation

The vastness and the diverse elevations of the Central Valley and Highlands mean weather conditions and temperatures vary. On any given day, there could be sunshine in Alajuela and rain in Cartago, blue skies atop Volcán Poás and cloud cover at Volcán Irazú, or vice versa. One thing you can count on is the region’s mild climate, which makes it one of the coldest areas of the country compared to the coasts. Daily temperatures average around 21°C (70°F). Nights, especially in mountainous areas, can be chilly enough to require a sweater. The dry season runs December-April.

Construction, car accidents, celebratory events or parades, protests or strikes, mudslides, and challenging weather conditions can cause slowdowns or road closures beyond the typical congestion in high-traffic areas. Give yourself extra time to get around the region, especially when you’re about to catch an international flight.

Most of the region’s roads are paved. Even the windy roads that climb mountains and volcanoes, pass through cloud forests, and dip into river valleys are in good condition. Still, avoid driving after dark when cloud cover in the high-elevation region can be hazardous. For the most part, travel throughout the Central Valley and Highlands does not require a 4WD vehicle.

Itinerary Ideas

ALAJUELA AND VICINITY IN TWO DAYS

The peaceful countryside that fans out over the northwestern half of the Central Highlands north of Alajuela is great for road-tripping. This two-day itinerary, with an overnight stay in Bajos del Toro, loops around the vicinity and features natural wonders, wildlife, and culture—with some souvenir shopping thrown in for good measure.

Day 1

1 Jump-start the day with a cup of fresh-roasted coffee at Hacienda Doka, a coffee estate outside of Alajuela. Catch the 9am coffee tour to learn how coffee is made and see Costa Rica’s oldest functioning wet mill in action. Don’t forget to buy a bag of your preferred type of coffee at the gift shop before you leave.

2 Trade the estate for Parque Nacional Volcán Poás, a 45-minute drive up the road. (A reservation is required to enter the park; book the noon time slot.) Give yourself an hour to walk the park’s volcano trails and lay your eyes on the smoking crater and tranquil lagoon atop Volcán Poás.

3 Move on to the neighboring La Paz Waterfall Gardens, home to wildlife exhibits and waterfalls. Purchase an entrance ticket that includes lunch and fill up on a variety of foods at the site’s smorgasbord before checking out the main attractions. Give yourself two hours to stroll through the contiguous exhibits to see monkeys, toucans, hummingbirds, jungle cats, frogs, snakes, and butterflies, and to hike the nature trail that descends into the forest and visits five waterfalls.

4 Get back on the road no later than 4:30pm so you can reach mountainous Bajos del Toro before dark.

5 Splurge on one of the suites at El Silencio Lodge and eat a fantastic farm-to-table dinner by the fire at the lodge’s cozy on-site restaurant.

Day 2

1 Wake up to the natural soundtrack of Bajos del Toro’s cloud forest and enjoy the lodge’s plentiful complimentary breakfast.

2 Give yourself three hours to hike to the powerful Catarata del Toro and the striking blue Cataratas Las Gemelas, a set of neighboring cascades up the road from the lodge.

3 From the waterfalls, make the hour-long drive south to the village of Sarchí.

4 Build a custom plate of Costa Rican foods from the buffet bar at El Jardín for lunch.

5 Afterward, pop into Sarchí’s old-fashioned workshop, Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos, to see craftsmen building Costa Rica’s iconic oxcarts and artists painting the pieces with colorful geometric designs. Half an hour is plenty of time to see the workshop, but you may want more time to shop at the on-site souvenir store, which has hundreds of handcrafted goods for sale.

6 End the road trip back in Alajuela, about a 45-minute drive from Sarchí. If you get to the city before 3:30pm, squeeze in a self-guided tour of the Rescate Wildlife Rescue Center to see additional wildlife and learn about the center’s commendable animal rehabilitation efforts.

A WHIRLWIND TOUR OF CARTAGO AND TURRIALBA

The most visited part of the Central Highlands is its northwestern half. With extra time to spend in the region or an interest in exploring less-frequented sites, road-trip around the southeastern half, anchored by the cities of Cartago and Turrialba.

1 Depart from Cartago early in the morning. Drive up the slopes of Volcán Irazú and through the clouds to the Crater Sector of Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú. (A reservation is required to enter the park; book the 8am time slot.) Give yourself an hour to walk the trail and peer into the volcano’s deep crater from different vantage points. If you haven’t eaten breakfast, indulge in baked goods at the park’s on-site cafeteria.

2 Descend the volcano toward Cartago but catch Highway 10 heading east toward Turrialba. At the city of Paraíso, detour off the highway to loop around the picturesque Valle de Orosi and see its beautiful valleys, agricultural fields, and tranquil communities. Give yourself an hour to drive the circuit, or more time if you want to stop at scenic lookouts or stroll through the Ruinas de Ujarrás.

3 Return to Highway 10 and continue driving toward Turrialba. Pull over at Restaurante Los Pizotes along the way to enjoy a delicious Costa Rican casado for lunch.

4 Drive to the Monumento Nacional Guayabo, on the northern outskirts of Turrialba. Take a self-guided tour of the monument to see its rare archaeological treasures or a guided tour if you’d appreciate knowing the backstories of each.

5 Wrap up the road trip with dinner in Turrialba. If you’re hungry for a full meal, get barbecued meats at Betico Grill Garden. If you’re in the mood for lighter fare, pick up empanadas or a sandwich at Santo Pan Estación Atlántico.

Alajuela

Each year more than 1.8 million tourists visit the Alajuela area, home to the Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría. The airport, dubbed erroneously by many travelers the San José airport, lies on the southern edge of the city of Alajuela in the district of Río Segundo, a 20-minute drive northwest of San José. Receiving three times as many travelers as the international airport in Liberia, this is Costa Rica’s busiest entry point.

The city of Alajuela, the country’s fourth-largest city in terms of population, is 4 km (2.5 mi) north of the airport. It is a nexus of history, religion, and modern-day life in Costa Rica as evidenced by an eclectic mix of sculptures of local dignitaries, ornate churches, and students in parks. But its grid of streets—several of them one-way—is regularly clogged with traffic, making getting around and passage through the city a frustrating chore. Most travelers don’t spend more than their first or last night in Costa Rica in Alajuela, but if you choose to explore the city, do so on foot or with the assistance of a driver who knows the best way to get around. The downtown core is contained within Highway 3, Calle 3, Avenida 9, Calle 12, and Avenida 10.

SIGHTS

S Rescate Wildlife Rescue Center

GOOGLE MAP

Hwy. 3, 10 km (6.2 mi) west of Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría; tel. 506/2433-8989; www.rescatewildlife.org; 9am-5pm daily; $35 adults, $15 ages 2-12

Founded in 1989, one of Costa Rica’s most well-known and well-respected wildlife rescue centers is the nonprofit Rescate Wildlife Rescue Center (formerly Rescate Animal Zooave). Walk around at your leisure and see wildlife up close at this outdoor center with large fenced enclosures spread out around a jungle-clad property. The low-key wildlife rescue center functions as a reproduction center, education center, research center, and animal hospital. Each division relies on revenue from the entrance fee and guided tours to operate. Visits here, which are greatly appreciated by the team that operates the center, help protect and care for wildlife.

trail at the Rescate Wildlife Rescue Center

The operation’s primary purpose is to rehabilitate birds and other animals and release them into the wild (or house them when health or social conditions mean they can’t return to the wild), not to entertain visitors. For this reason, you won’t find the place as developed or as touristy as several other attractions in the country. Informational signage that details the characteristics of the resident wildlife is provided throughout the center, but if you wish to learn more about specific species or the center’s efforts to rescue and rehabilitate them, consider taking a guided tour (10am and 2pm daily; 2 hours; $50 adults, $25 ages 2-12). Reservations for guided tours are required; they can be made via the center’s website and are subject to the availability of a tour guide. Most of the staff work behind the scenes, caring for the animals.

Each year, the center rescues about 2,700 animals. The revolving roster of inhabitants includes over 125 species of birds, mammals, and reptiles. A wheelchair-accessible concrete trail system throughout the center is easy to traverse but does have some inclines and declines. Free wheelchairs are available. Colorful scarlet macaws and comical capuchin monkeys reside on the premises, among scores of other wildlife. Iguanas and peacocks wander the trails freely. Try to avoid disturbing the ubiquitous spiderwebs that hide among the flora growing throughout the facility.

On hot days, prepare yourself for stagnant humid conditions. The center’s tall trees, bamboo plants, and leafy canopy restrict airflow and keep the place moist. Give yourself at least an hour, and ideally two or three, to visit. With additional time, you can grab a drink or food at the on-site restaurant, Kivú (tel. 506/2433-7440; 9am-5pm daily; $14-19), named after a lion that resided at the center.

SPECTATOR SPORTS

Estadio Alejandro Morera Soto

Alejandro Morera Soto Stadium; corner of Avenida 7 and Calle 11

To blend in with locals, don black-and-red garb and head to the outdoor 18,000-person-capacity Estadio Alejandro Morera Soto on nights when the Liga Deportiva Alajuelense (Alajuela Sport League; www.lda.cr), referred to by most as La Liga, plays a home game. The fútbol club is the beloved team of Alajuelenses (Alajuela residents) and is one of the country’s best competitors in the national Liga de Fútbol de Primera División (First Division Football League). La Liga plays in two annual seasons that run roughly February-June and July-December. Buy tickets ($7-65 pp) and see the most up-to-date schedule on the team’s website. Most games are tame events, but matches against San José’s home team, Saprissa, can draw large, loud, competitive crowds.

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

Día de Juan Santamaría

Each year on April 11, a day known as Día de Juan Santamaría, Costa Ricans recognize the anniversary of the death of Alajuelense Juan Santamaría, a 24-year-old drummer in Costa Rica’s now-abolished army, who played an instrumental role in the Second Battle of Rivas in 1856 in Nicaragua. Alajuela’s festivities include parades, food stalls, costumes, and fireworks. Fittingly, drummers and other musicians fill the streets with music and dancing. My favorites are the spirited children who come to watch the parade; some grasp home-crafted decorative torches and wave them in the air to salute the fallen hero. (The torch is a symbol of freedom and peace in Costa Rica.) The parade typically takes place midday and travels north on Road 712 and east on Avenida 5 to Calle 7. Driving through downtown Alajuela is best avoided on this day if you don’t plan to take in the festivities. Confirm locations and start times with a local hotel or tour operator, as event details are subject to change.

SHOPPING

Plaza Ferias

Calle 20, 100 m (109 yd) south of Avenida Central; noon-8pm Fri., 5:30am-2pm Sat.

One of the country’s largest farmers markets is held in Alajuela’s Plaza Ferias. Rain or shine, the roofed 7,600-sq-m (81,805-sq-ft) warehouse sells just about every fruit and vegetable grown in the country. Don’t leave without trying slices of sweet delicious mango; the area’s many fruit trees are responsible for Alajuela’s nickname, La Ciudad de los Mangos (The City of Mangos).

La Verbena

in the parking lot on the south side of Calle 11, 250 m (273 yd) south of Avenida 10; 7am-2:30pm Sat.

La Verbena, a second market in Alajuela, sells fresh bread, sauces and spreads, jewelry, natural products like oils and soaps, and tons of other artisanal creations. Many products are environmentally friendly or organic. Sometimes, there’s live music.

FOOD

S El Chante Vegano

Avenida 5, 25 m (82 ft) west of the post office; tel. 506/8911-4787; noon-8pm daily; $7-10

My go-to restaurant in downtown Alajuela is El Chante Vegano, which prepares meals using 100 percent organic ingredients. There’s no question the casual, colorful eatery is a hole-in-the-wall, but its all-vegan menu pleasantly surprises most diners and easily competes with menus at some of the country’s best health food restaurants. Dishes include hamburgers, pastas, nachos, sandwiches, pizza, falafel, and pitas.

Rosti

formerly Rostipollos; tel. 506/2217-8787; www.rosti.cr; 7am-10pm daily; $9.50-13.50

If you need fast food before or after a flight, head across the street from the airport to Rosti, a popular Costa Rican-Nicaraguan franchise that specializes in roasted chicken dishes.

S Restaurante El Mirador

Road 712, 5.5 km (3.4 mi) north of downtown Alajuela; tel. 506/2441-9347; www.restauranteelmiradordealajuela.com; 4pm-10pm Mon.-Thurs., noon-10pm Fri.-Sun.; $17-27

On the outskirts of town, Restaurante El Mirador serves up a classy experience in addition to delicious food. The atmosphere is sophisticated, though the space itself is casual, and the skilled chefs prepare high-quality seafood and beef cuts. This mountainside establishment has a spectacular view of the city and live music performances, usually on Friday evenings and Sunday afternoons. On top of all that, the service is superb. Reservations for dinner, when the place oozes with romance, are strongly advised.

ACCOMMODATIONS

$50-100

Alajuela City Hotel & Guest House

Avenida 3, between Calle Central and Calle 2; tel. 506/2441-0525; www.alajuelacityhotel.com; private room with shared bath $60 s/d, private room with private bath $90 s/d

If you want to spend a night in the heart of the city, book a room at the Alajuela City Hotel & Guest House. This small, street-facing, historical yet updated guesthouse has helpful staff, feels safe, and provides a pleasant stay. The water runs hot, the air-conditioning blows cold, and the rooms, which sleep 1-4 people in twin and queen beds, are clean, fresh-feeling, and inviting. The most economical rooms have shared baths.

S Hotel La Riviera

Calle 1, 5.5 km (3.4 mi) south of Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría; tel. 506/2293-0909; www.larivierahotel.com; $78 s, $92 d

Hotel La Riviera, in the affluent suburb of San Antonio de Belén (an approximate 15-minute drive south of the airport), offers fair prices and plenty of perks. Although the hotel’s 19 rooms are simply outfitted with one or two single or double beds, a writing desk, a television, air-conditioning, and a private bathroom, the array of complimentary services, including private parking, airport shuttle services, and breakfast, make the property a worthwhile and affordable place to stay. Gourmet tapas and meals, paired with excellent wines, are served at the on-site restaurant, and anything else you might crave can be purchased from the large, modern supermarket across the street. Stay here if your flight home departs in the afternoon or the evening; the hotel’s late checkout time (2pm) will let you catch up on sleep or relax in comfort before you fly.

$100-150

Hotel Robledal

Road 124, 6 km (3.7 mi) west of Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría; tel. 506/2438-3937; www.hotelrobledal.com; $119 s/d

Run by a Costa Rican family, the 15-room Hotel Robledal is quiet, cozy, and comfortable. You’ll think you’ve joined their clan when you receive their warm service. Rooms sleep 1-4 people and have flat-screen TVs, safes, and views of the pool or the hotel’s lovely gardens, which are a great place for spotting birds. Best of all, the authentic hotel serves a healthy, hearty breakfast with a buffet bar and made-to-order plates. Set in a quiet suburb a 15-minute drive west of the airport, the hotel feels private and remote, in part because of its secure gated entrance.

TOP EXPERIENCE

S Coffee Tours: Costa Rica’s Golden Bean

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Though vast amounts of gold belonging to Indigenous populations earned Costa Rica (the Rich Coast) its name, the phrase is also fitting thanks to the country’s ample supply of coffee beans, rich in flavor and aroma. Nicknamed the golden bean, coffee is a cultural touchstone in Costa Rica and a treasured contributor to the country’s economy. Much of it comes from the highlands around the Central Valley, where an ideal combination of altitude, climate, and fertile soils creates fruitful crops that deliver fine arabica beans.

The region also offers some of the country’s best coffee tours. Several coffee plantations, beneficios (processing plants), and roasteries are open to the public and have field stations that demonstrate various stages of coffee production. At most properties, you can examine coffee plants and their fruit; watch how beans are harvested, washed, and dried; smell beans being roasted using different techniques; and enjoy a fresh cup of a signature brew.

My two favorite coffee tours in the region appeal to different interests, and each offers a unique approach to learning about coffee.

EL TOLEDO COFFEE

Calle San Isidro, 35 km (22 mi) west of Alajuela, Atenas; tel. 506/8711-1221; www.eltoledocoffee.weebly.com; 8am-4pm daily

The hardworking family behind El Toledo Coffee declares, “We have nothing but the coffee we produce.” Here’s your chance to tour a small-scale organic finca (farm) and learn about coffee directly from three generations of a family whose livelihood depends on its production.

During the on-site coffee tour (10am and 2pm daily, other times on request; 2 hours; $20 pp over age 9), you’ll walk through dense natural forest on a barely flattened trail to see where coffee plants grow on hillsides. Various stations around the plantation demonstrate different stages of bean processing, including drying and roasting, using old-fashioned machinery and techniques. The production of coffee at this farm, unlike some other coffee plantations, is largely carried out by hand to create a healthier and more sustainable product.

Also available for purchase are bottles of coffee-fruit wine, coffee-fruit juice, and coffee-fruit tea. Each product is ingeniously crafted from the fruit of coffee plants, which most coffee farms wastefully discard following bean extraction. Capping off the informative experience is a cup of El Toledo’s organic coffee brew.

HACIENDA DOKA

Road 130, 12 km (7.5 mi) north of Alajuela, Sabanilla; tel. 506/2449-5152; www.dokaestate.com; 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-4pm Sat.-Sun.

Hacienda Doka is Costa Rica’s oldest wet mill. Established in the 1940s, it uses some machinery that’s over 120 years old to produce a variety of aromatic coffee blends.

The plantation’s coffee tour (9am, 11am, 1:30pm, 2:30pm, and 3:30pm Mon.-Fri., 9am, 11am, 1:30pm, and 2:30pm Sat.-Sun.; 1.5 hours; $28 adults, $12 ages 3-12) is a journey through time. At stations around the plantation, you’ll get to see demonstrations of traditional methods of coffee processing. After the light walking tour (suitable for children), wander around the estate and explore a butterfly garden, a hydroponic orchard, a bonsai garden, and a beautiful view, as well as a gift shop stocked full of Doka’s finest products.

$150-250

S Buena Vista Chic Hotel

formerly Hotel Buena Vista; Road 712, 10 km (6.2 mi) north of Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría; tel. 506/2442-8595; www.hotelbuenavistacr.com; room $192 s/d, villa $298 s/d

When I want to see the twinkle of city lights in the Central Valley, I book a stay at the Buena Vista Chic Hotel. Located a 25-minute drive up the mountain north of Alajuela, the Spanish colonial-style hotel has a beautiful view of the area, including a few volcanoes. It also has a nature trail, a pool, a restaurant, and 25 homey rooms (some sleep five) with plush king and queen beds. In addition, five spacious villas feature upscale baths, bedrooms, and living rooms. Each villa can accommodate six guests.

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

Alajuela is one of the largest cities in Costa Rica. It is home to Hospital San Rafael (Calle Francisco Orlich, 1 km/0.6 mi northwest of Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría; tel. 506/2436-1001; 24 hours daily), a post office (Avenida 5 at Calle 1; tel. 506/2443-2653; 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-noon Sat.), a police station (Road 712 at Avenida 7; tel. 506/2430-1085; 24 hours daily), and many supermarkets.

At least 10 pharmacies dot the downtown core, including three of the well-known and well-stocked franchise Fischel. Most are open 9am-9pm daily, but the location at Highway 3 and Avenida 6 has extended hours (7am-midnight Mon.-Sat., 9am-9pm Sun.). Banks and ATMs also fill the city. The easiest to access are on Avenida Central, between Calle 2 and Calle 4.

If you would prefer to avoid downtown Alajuela, a post office, pharmacy, bank, ATM, and supermarket can be found inside City Mall (Calle Francisco Orlich, 750 m/820 yd northwest of Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría; tel. 506/4200-5100; 10am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-8pm Sun.).

GETTING THERE

Air

Costa Rica’s busiest airport is Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría (Juan Santamaría International Airport, SJO), 4 km (2.5 mi) south of downtown Alajuela in the district of Río Segundo. The transportation hub services a long list of international airlines. Domestic flights operated by SANSA Airlines (tel. 506/2290-4100; www.flysansa.com) fly to Alajuela from Liberia, La Fortuna, Tamarindo, Nosara, Cóbano (services destinations in the southern half of the Nicoya Peninsula), Quepos, Bahía Drake, Puerto Jiménez, Tortuguero, and Limón (services destinations in the southern Caribbean).

Car

Alajuela is a 20-km (12.4-mi), 30-minute drive northwest from downtown San José via Highway 1. From downtown Liberia, it’s a 200-km (124-mi), three-hour drive southeast on Highway 1.

Nearly every road in the city’s center is a one-way street. Not all streets have signs that indicate una vía (one-way) or no hay paso (no entrance). Watch for—and follow—the general flow of traffic.

Bus

Alajuela can also be reached by public bus from San José, Liberia, Puntarenas, and La Fortuna. There are bus stops in the city center and just outside Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría, on the north side of the parking garage across from the Departures gate.

Organized Tour

Several adventure and nature tours, such as those from Exploradores Outdoors (tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com) and Desafio Adventure Company (tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com), include post-tour onward transportation to Alajuela. White-water rafting tours, safari float tours, and multiday Tortuguero expeditions can be arranged to include a pickup from your hotel in San José, Turrialba, La Fortuna, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, Tortuguero, Cahuita, or Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, then a drop-off at your hotel in Alajuela.

Some tour transportation providers only offer complimentary drop-offs at Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría, hotels in downtown Alajuela, or hotels near the airport. If you stay at a hotel on the outskirts of Alajuela, you may need to pay extra to get dropped off at the hotel after the tour.

Private Transfer Service

Nearly every transportation service provider in the country sells private transfer services to Alajuela with drop-offs at Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría and area hotels. Prices vary considerably depending on the departure location. Expect to pay around $200 from La Fortuna, $275 from Monteverde, $250 from Liberia, $300 from beach towns on the northern Pacific coast, $320 from Nosara, $290 from Sámara, $250 from Montezuma, $275 from Santa Teresa or Malpaís, $145 from Jacó, $200 from Manuel Antonio, $260-320 from the Costa Ballena, $360 from Sierpe, $460 from Puerto Jiménez, and $250 from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

Shared Shuttle Service

Many companies provide shared shuttle services to Alajuela; however, most include drop-offs at Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría, hotels in downtown Alajuela, and hotels near the airport only. Be aware that if you choose to stay at a hotel outside of these areas, you may need to pay extra to get dropped off at your hotel, or you may need to take a second transportation service, such as a taxi or a shuttle service provided by the hotel, between where the shuttle drops you off and where you plan to stay.

The San José-based transportation company Interbus (Road 204 at Hwy. 39; tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com; 8am-6pm Mon.-Sat.) services Alajuela from La Fortuna, Monteverde, Liberia, Rincón de la Vieja, Playas del Coco, Playa Hermosa (northern Pacific coast), Potrero, Playa Flamingo, Brasilito, Tamarindo, Nosara, Sámara, Carrillo, Montezuma, Santa Teresa, Malpaís, Jacó, Playa Hermosa (central Pacific coast), Manuel Antonio, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, and Manzanillo. One-way service costs $50-85 per adult. Children under age 12 pay half the adult fare. Kayaks and bicycles are not permitted on board but surfboards are for a fee ($15).

Similarly priced shared shuttle services to Alajuela can be booked through transportation companies headquartered in other parts of the country. Great options include Ride Costa Rica (tel. 506/2469-2020; www.ridecr.com), Tamarindo Transfers & Tours (tel. 506/2653-4444; www.tamarindoshuttle.com), Sámara Adventures (tel. 506/2656-0920; www.samaraadventures.com), Zuma Tours (tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net), Tropical Tours Shuttles (tel. 506/2640-1900; www.tropicaltourshuttles.com), and Caribe Shuttle (tel. 506/2750-0626; www.caribeshuttle.com).

Volcán Poás

An imposing wall of mountains provides a dramatic backdrop in Alajuela. The northern slopes belong to Volcán Poás, which draws in travelers from all over Costa Rica to eye its crater within Parque Nacional Volcán Poás. Alajuela serves as the principal gateway to the park. However, the park can also be reached from other cities and towns in the Central Valley.

Strict time limits enforced by the park keep trips to the volcano short, so it’s best to also visit other sights in the vicinity to make the most of your time. Area attractions and businesses, capitalizing on the volcano’s popularity, offer a convincing argument that your trip to this volcanic region should be a full day or more in order to include other highlights like waterfalls, wildlife encounters, coffee plantations, and breathtaking valley views from mountaintop accommodations. Fortunately, the concentrated area is conducive to road trips; each of the recommended sights around Volcán Poás are within a 1.5-hour drive of one another. An overnight stay in the area isn’t necessary, though if you want one, the quiet communities of Poasito, Vara Blanca, and Bajos del Toro provide a lovely but limited selection of hotels. Alternatively, you can visit the area’s attractions during travel between Alajuela and destinations to the north, including La Fortuna and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí.

Appreciating Art and Tradition at Oxcart Factories in Sarchí

No other object symbolizes Costa Rica’s work culture quite like the oxcart—a sturdy, two-wheeled, rectangular wood cart, traditionally 1.5 m (4.9 ft) long and 1 m (3.3 ft) wide, with a 3-m (9.8-ft) front-facing shaft. It has long been part of the country’s agricultural roots. Ticos used these oxen-driven carts years ago—and some still use them today—to haul products like coffee beans between towns.

Today, the oxcart also demonstrates the creativity of artisans who craft the oxcarts and the many miniature replicas that are sold as souvenirs. In this sense, the oxcarts are a form of artistic expression, nods to Costa Rican heritage, and, in some cases, exhibitions of skills passed down through generations. What began as bare carts painted in one of three colors to protect the cart’s wood from the rain have since been transformed into bold, multicolored oxcarts adorned with exquisite geometric and kaleidoscopic designs.

FÁBRICAS DE CARRETAS

Decorative oxcarts are proudly displayed in restaurants, hotel lobbies, and the offices of tourism-related businesses around the country, so it’s likely that you’ll see them during your trip. But to see the intricate process of constructing and painting an oxcart, you’ll need to visit one of Costa Rica’s fábricas de carretas (oxcart factories) in the sprawling countryside town of Sarchí, roughly 25 km (15.5 mi) (a 45-minute drive) northwest of Alajuela. Appropriately dubbed the artisan capital of Costa Rica, Sarchí is home to talented and passionate artesanos (artisans) with impeccable wood-shaping and hand-painting skills, not to mention the world’s largest oxcart (you can’t miss it in the town’s center).

TALLER ELOY ALFARO E HIJOS

Eloy Alfaro and Sons Workshop; Calle 1, 30 km (19 mi) northwest of Alajuela, Sarchí; tel. 506/2215-1439; 7am-5pm daily; free

Oxcart factories are scattered around Sarchí, but most worthy of a visit is Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos. Built in 1923 and charmingly showing its age, this factory is a large, multiroom, windowless workshop that you can walk around to observe various stages of oxcart craftsmanship, from construction to varnishing. You can also see Eloy Alfaro’s exclusive process of binding and pinning 16 pie-shaped wood pieces together to form an oxcart’s wheel, as well as the giant waterwheel that powers the entire operation.

Next to the workshop is the factory’s large souvenir store. In addition to oxcarts, the store has all kinds of wood pieces for sale, from tables, rocking chairs, and an endless list of kitchen items (think bowls, napkin holders, cutting boards, and so on) to rosaries and nativity scenes. Adjacent to the souvenir store is an alfresco space where you can meet local artists and watch them hand-paint traditional designs. Some of them will even invite you to try your hand at the skill. The best way to support the artists is by purchasing the souvenirs they create for the store. Additionally, you can leave a tip for any artist in the tip jar on their desk.

EL JARDÍN

Road 118, 2 km/1.2 mi southeast of Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos, Sarchí; tel. 506/2215-1439; 7am-7pm daily; $5-12

Artists also paint on-site at El Jardín, a restaurant and second souvenir store in Sarchí that is also managed by Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos. The cafeteria-style restaurant’s bountiful buffet, which rotates items like rice, beans, mixed vegetables, meat, soups, and salads, is a great place to enjoy a traditional Costa Rican lunch in Sarchí, rounding out your visit to the culturally significant town.

PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN POÁS

Poás Volcano National Park; Road 120, 9 km (5.6 mi) northwest of Road 146; tel. 506/2482-1226; www.sinac.go.cr; 8am-4pm daily, last entry 2pm; $15 adults 13-65, $5 ages 2-12

Before spring 2017, Volcán Poás had been Costa Rica’s easiest volcano to access and explore. People are drawn to the park to see the Tiffany-blue pool in the volcano’s crater, which is roughly 1,320 m (4,331 ft) wide, 320 m (1,050 ft) deep, and a piping hot 50°C (122°F). Due to dangerous volcanic activity, Parque Nacional Volcán Poás was closed in 2017-2018. After reopening, the park quickly regained its position as one of the Alajuela area’s top attractions.

Parque Nacional Volcán Poás

Visiting the Park

Since reopening, operations surrounding the 16,000-acre protected area and its resident volcano have completely changed. Visitors have a maximum of 20 minutes of viewing time at the main crater; a guide is stationed at the crater to enforce the time limit. Tickets must be prepurchased through the website of Costa Rica’s Sistema Nacional de Áreas de Conservación (National System of Conservation Areas, SINAC; www.sinac.go.cr). In addition, electronic tickets—which must be printed in advance and shown upon arrival at the park—are assigned for set days and time slots. Given the region’s changeable weather and traffic conditions, it can be hard to nail down a specific day and time to visit. No refunds are given for missed reservations or if the crater is clouded over during your visit. Regardless, the opportunity to spot the volcano’s blue pool amid dissipating clouds—sometimes just for a moment—is enough of a thrill to encourage many people to make the trip.

Varied wildlife, including birds, rabbits, armadillos, skunks, coyotes, and weasels, exists within the park but is scarce. The most interesting critter you may come across is arguably the rare yellow-tinged Bangs’s mountain squirrel, nicknamed the Poás squirrel. Your best chance of seeing wildlife in the park is along the Sendero Laguna Botos.

At the park’s entrance are a visitor center, restrooms, and a parking lot ($4 per car).

Hiking

The park has a handful of trails, two of which are open to the public.

Sendero Principal

Main Trail; 600 m (656 yd) one-way; 10 minutes; easy

The wheelchair-accessible Sendero Principal is a paved path that connects the visitor center to the main crater. Though you aren’t required to be accompanied by a tour guide on this walk, one is stationed at the main crater to ensure you don’t stay beyond your allotted time slot. At the end of the trail, you’ll come to a clearing edged by a guardrail and a small, one-story observation tower. On clear days, you can admire the crater at a distance from anywhere along the guardrail; unobstructed photos are best taken from the observation tower. When clouds roll in, typically late in the morning or in the afternoon, there is nothing to see but fog.

Sendero Laguna Botos

Laguna Botos Trail; 830 m (908 yd) one-way; 30 minutes; moderate

Sendero Laguna Botos is a paved trail that branches off from Sendero Principal near the main crater and travels through cloud forest on an incline past webs of interconnected tree limbs. Take this trail to lay your eyes on the 400-m-wide (1,312-ft), 14-m-deep (46-ft) Laguna Botos (Botos Lagoon), a liquid-filled crater that resembles a peaceful lake, or to see some of the park’s resident wildlife. There is no time limit for self-guided exploration of Sendero Laguna Botos.

Getting There

From downtown Alajuela, it’s a 30-km (19-mi), 50-minute drive north to reach the park. Take Road 712 due north for 18 km (11.2 mi) to the community of Fraijanes. Here, Road 712 connects with Road 146 and continues north toward Poasito. Look for Road 120, which is well marked with signs for the park. Road 120 leads west for 9 km (5.6 mi) and ends at the park entrance.

From San José, the park is a 50-km (31-mi) drive northwest on Highway 1, Highway 3, Road 712, Road 146, and Road 120 that takes roughly one hour and 20 minutes. These paved routes do not require a 4WD vehicle.

Buses to the park depart from San José and Alajuela, typically once a day in the morning.

POASITO AND VARA BLANCA

North of Alajuela, several paved but narrow roads ascend mountains past coffee plantations and cow pastures to the quiet communities of Poasito and Vara Blanca. The tiny agricultural towns on the southeast side of Volcán Poás enjoy warm days, brisk nights, and beautiful views. They’re also home to a small collection of hotels, restaurants, and attractions that suffered financial hardship following the closure of Parque Nacional Volcán Poás. The vicinity also endured one of the country’s deadliest earthquakes in 2009 and has yet to recover fully from the disaster; it stands to benefit greatly from tourism.

Most visitors spend anywhere from a few hours to a full day in the area experiencing the highlights, but they don’t stay overnight. If you’re merely passing through or are in town on a day trip, a few restaurants near Poasito serve as great places for a rest stop.

Sights

S La Paz Waterfall Gardens

GOOGLE MAP

Road 126, 6 km (3.7 mi) north of Road 120, Vara Blanca; tel. 506/2482-2720; www.waterfallgardens.com; 8am-5pm daily; $52 adults, $36 ages 3-12

One of Costa Rica’s best nature- and wildlife-based theme parks is La Paz Waterfall Gardens. This attraction on the eastern slopes of Volcán Poás has it all—a well-kept animal sanctuary that features one of the country’s largest and most diverse displays of rescued Costa Rican wildlife, a lush property that hides five glorious waterfalls, and modern secure facilities. You can spend several hours strolling around exhibits to see and hear some of the country’s most beloved species (sloths, hummingbirds, colorful tree frogs, toucans, and magnificent jaguars) and hiking to powerful photo-worthy waterfalls. An ideal stop if your time in the country is limited, the park makes it easy to check off several experiences on your list with a single visit.

This is one of Costa Rica’s most organized tourist attractions, so it’s a great choice for families with children. Visits run like clockwork, even as busloads of travelers arrive each day. If you’re accustomed to traveling off the beaten path, you may feel like you’re on a conveyor belt, being ushered from one sight to the next, but it’s still worth going. You can take more time to explore what piques your interest and bypass anything that doesn’t. Reception staff are welcoming, helpful, and happy to point you in the right direction to start your exploration.

In the park, paved paths lead to exhibits that showcase birds, butterflies, monkeys, snakes, frogs, and wild cats within large aviaries and glass enclosures that allow species to be admired at close range. Also on view are an orchid display, a trout pond, and a small ranch with oxen. A rougher trail departs from the exhibits and descends west into the forest toward the waterfalls: The Catarata Templo (Templo Waterfall) has upper-level and lower-level lookouts. The Catarata Magia Blanca (Magia Blanca Waterfall) provides a photo opportunity behind the cascade. Catarata Encantada (Encantada Waterfall) and Catarata Escondida (Escondida Waterfall) are side by side. The site’s namesake, Catarata La Paz (La Paz Waterfall), can only be seen from above from within the park. Come prepared for hilly trails and steep staircase descents into—and climbs out of—waterfall viewpoints. If you work up an appetite, you can fill up on food while at the park; the optional all-you-can-eat lunch ($14 adults, $8 ages 3-12) is a smorgasbord loaded with Costa Rican and international (mostly American) foods.

Just north of Catarata La Paz is a gift shop and rest stop where shuttles depart regularly to return tired hikers to the reception area. The last shuttle of the day departs for the reception at 5pm.

If you don’t have a rental car (4WD is not required), the attraction operates a midmorning guided tour (10:30am daily; 7 hours; $100 adults, $90 ages 3-12) that includes round-trip transportation from San José, the entrance fee, and lunch. Alternately, scores of other tour operators and agencies run guided day tours here, many of which combine the trip with stops at the nearby Parque Nacional Volcán Poás or Hacienda Doka, among other attractions. You can also stay the night on the grounds at the luxurious Peace Lodge.

The park is often visited during travel between San José or Alajuela and La Fortuna. If you make the drive, the waterfall you’ll approach on the south side of Road 126 is Catarata La Paz, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) north of the entrance.

Food and Accommodations

Café Pura Vida

formerly Café Muy Tranquilo, Road 146, 50 m (164 ft) north of Freddo Fresas, Poasito; tel. 506/8882-3369; 10:30am-6:30pm Wed.-Sun.; $1-5

If all you need is a boost of caffeine, grab a cup of coffee at the eye-catching Café Pura Vida. Every inch of this down-to-earth café, set in a wooden house, is covered in the owner’s bold, colorful pop art. The vibe is improvisational; you’re welcome to contribute a saying or doodle of your own to the café-wide composition, provided you can find an unused space. If you go only to see the art and don’t buy a beverage or snack from the café, consider thanking the artist for the visual merriment by leaving a tip in the tip box.

Freddo Fresas

Road 146, 800 m (0.5 mi) south of Road 120, Poasito; tel. 506/2482-2800; 7am-6pm daily; $7.50-13

Roadside stalls selling fresas (strawberries) are scattered along the slopes of Volcán Poás. You won’t find any fresher fruit than here, which is largely why the strawberry drinks and desserts at Freddo Fresas are indescribably delicious. Stop at this cabin-style restaurant just southwest of Poasito for a quick refreshing strawberry smoothie or a slice of strawberry cheesecake on your way to or from the volcano or other nearby attractions.

El Sabor de la Montaña

Road 120, 75 m (246 ft) north of Road 146, Poasito; tel. 506/2482-1367; 9am-9pm daily; $10-19

If you’re hungry for a hearty meal, dine at El Sabor de la Montaña. This rustic restaurant serves perfectly prepared meats, including barbecue chicken, tender steaks, and juicy pork chops, with sides like tossed salad, white rice, french fries, and roasted vegetables. A few vegetarian options are also available. Located on the road to Parque Nacional Volcán Poás, the restaurant is easy to find and best coupled with a visit to the volcano.

Peace Lodge

La Paz Waterfall Gardens; Road 126, 6 km (3.7 mi) north of Road 120, Vara Blanca; tel. 506/2482-2100; www.waterfallgardens.com; $840 s/d

One of the best nature lodges in Costa Rica is the rustic but luxurious Peace Lodge. On the grounds of La Paz Waterfall Gardens, the 18-room resort features natural wood and stone finishes with luxurious touches and an aura of quiet elegance. You can soak in a jetted tub, snuggle by a fireplace, relax on a forest-facing balcony in a rocking chair or a hammock, or crawl under the covers of your soft canopy bed, all in the comfort of your private room. You can also explore the property’s waterfalls and exhibits before and after the public operating hours (8am-5pm daily). The courteous and helpful staff go out of their way to make guests happy.

Information and Services

The closest hospital is Alajuela’s Hospital San Rafael (Calle Francisco Orlich, 1 km/0.6 mi northwest of Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría, Alajuela; tel. 506/2436-1001; 24 hours daily).

Just west of Poasito, where Road 146 meets Road 120 at the turnoff for Parque Nacional Volcán Poás, are a Super Poasito supermarket, an ATM (5am-midnight daily), and a tourist police office (tel. 506/2586-4402; 24 hours daily) with officers available to assist foreign travelers.

South on Road 146 is the community’s clinic, Ebais Poasito (tel. 506/2482-2121; 7am-4pm Mon.-Fri.).

Getting There

Poasito is a 20-km (12.4-mi), 40-minute drive north of Alajuela via Road 712 and Road 146. The 40-km (25-mi) drive from downtown San José to Poasito via Highway 1, Road 712, and Road 146 takes 1 hour and 10 minutes. From downtown Liberia, Poasito is a 220-km (136-mi) drive southeast via Highway 1, Road 712, and Road 146 that takes roughly 3 hours and 45 minutes.

Vara Blanca is 6 km (3.7 mi) beyond Poasito to the east, about a 10-minute drive on Road 120.

BAJOS DEL TORO

Swathed in cloud forest, the tiny village of Bajos del Toro sits atop the Central Highlands due west of Volcán Poás. It is along paved Road 708, a scenic, mountainous back road that connects the Central Valley with destinations farther north, including La Fortuna and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí. Though Bajos del Toro remains a quintessential Costa Rican mountain town—quaint, quiet, and inhabited by kind country folk—it also serves the occasional traveler in town for a day or two to explore the area’s impressive waterfalls or spend a night at its high-end mountain lodge.

Sights

Catarata del Toro

Del Toro Waterfall; Road 708; tel. 506/8399-7476; www.catarata-del-toro.com; 7am-5pm Mon.-Sat.; $14 adults, $7 ages 4-11

One of the most picturesque waterfalls I’ve laid eyes on in Costa Rica is Catarata del Toro, which plunges into an extinct volcano crater over a colorful moss- and lichen-striped rock wall. Equally impressive is the 90-m (295-ft) cascade’s thunderous roar echoing off the crater’s walls.

The waterfall sits in an uninhabited forested area 6 km (3.7 mi) north of Bajos del Toro. The signed entrance is marked by a parking lot, an admission booth, and a restaurant, beyond which is a lovely little hummingbird garden and the trailhead for the main attraction’s 1-km (0.6-mi) path. Following a brief walk through the forest, a seemingly endless 335-step staircase descends steeply toward the waterfall’s base. Roughly half of the steps are concrete; the other half are dirt, wood, and gravel. Have your camera ready; you’ll pass a few miradores (lookouts) along the way that capture the waterfall from different heights and angles. Give yourself an hour and a half to reach the waterfall’s base, leisurely take in the view (swimming is not permitted), and make the climb back to the entrance the way you came. A tour guide is not required. Benches stationed throughout the route provide a welcome respite for weary legs.

If you don’t have enough time or energy to hike down to the waterfall’s base, you can snap photos of Catarata del Toro at a distance from a viewpoint just beyond the trailhead. You’ll still need to pay the entrance fee with this option, but it’s a small price to pay to see the beautiful cascade.

S Cataratas Las Gemelas

GOOGLE MAP

Las Gemelas Waterfalls; Road 708; tel. 506/8399-7476; www.blue-falls-of-costa-rica.com; 7am-5pm Mon.-Sat.; $17 adults, $8.50 ages 4-11

My favorite waterfalls to visit in the region are Cataratas Las Gemelas, a pair of tall slender waterfalls tucked among cloud forest. Belonging to a series of waterfalls known as the Blue Falls of Costa Rica, the two cascades tumble into a mythical-feeling blue stream you can swim in. If you’ve come to Costa Rica in search of enchanting waterfalls that hide off the beaten path, these falls—void of large tour groups—are some of the country’s best.

Cataratas Las Gemelas share property with Catarata del Toro, and you’ll pay the entrance fee at the admission booth to Catarata del Toro. The unnamed trail (2 km/1.2 mi one-way; 45 minutes; easy-moderate) that leads to Cataratas Las Gemelas begins 75 m (246 ft) down the road, beyond a metal gate. Grab a complimentary walking stick at the admission booth; it will come in handy during the hike.

The best thing about visiting Cataratas Las Gemelas is the fun and exciting—but not overly challenging—journey you’ll go on to reach them. During the trek, you’ll cut through lime-green pastures, descend a short staircase into the forest, cross bridges, and climb over mounds of river rocks before arriving at the first cascade. The second cascade, which is visible from the first, is slightly upstream and requires further climbs over additional rocks. Use your walking stick to provide stability while climbing over rocks that can be slippery when wet. Dips in the remote stream’s azure pools are rewarding and shockingly refreshing. Avoid swimming around the bottom of the waterfalls where the current may be strong.

You’re welcome to hike to Cataratas Las Gemelas on your own; alternatively, a staff member at the admission booth can accompany you to the waterfalls for free on request. If you plan a same-day visit to the neighboring Catarata del Toro, you’ll pay less overall for the entrance fees to both attractions ($25 adults, $12.50 ages 4-11).

Accommodations

El Silencio Lodge & Spa

off Road 708, 1 km (0.6 mi) south of Bajos del Toro; tel. 506/4070-1100; www.elsilenciolodge.com; $674 s/d

Most people visit Bajos del Toro for a few hours on day trips from other destinations. The best reason to spend a night or two in the area is to experience El Silencio Lodge & Spa, a luxury mountain lodge with 20 bungalow-style suites set in peaceful backcountry. Each suite has resort-quality beds and linens, an in-room lounge area, floor-to-ceiling glass walls, an outdoor viewing deck with rocking chairs, elegant baths, and a private outdoor jetted tub enclosed in bamboo. The farm-to-table meals, rum and coffee tastings, and cooking classes with the in-house chef demonstrate the lodge’s fascination for the culinary arts, but the best on-site experience is the simple pleasure of being surrounded by the natural soundtrack of the cloud forest.

Getting There

Bajos del Toro is 65 km (40 mi) northwest of downtown San José via Highway 1, Road 715, Road 118, Calle Trojas, Calle Talolinga, and Road 708. The drive takes about one hour and 45 minutes. From downtown Liberia, it’s a 200-km (124-mi), 3.5-hour drive southeast on Highway 1, Road 141, Road 118, Calle Trojas, Calle Talolinga, and Road 708 to Bajos del Toro.

Twenty km (12.4 mi) north of Bajos del Toro, Road 708 ends at Road 140, where travel to the west leads the way to La Fortuna and travel to the east heads toward Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí. From La Fortuna, the 80-km (50-mi) drive to Bajos del Toro takes approximately 90 minutes. Depending on your departure location, the drive from Sarapiquí to Bajos del Toro is 40-56 km (25-35 mi) and takes roughly 60-75 minutes.

Cartago and Turrialba

Costa Rica’s capital city until 1823, the metropolis of Cartago is steeped in civic history and religious significance. As you enter Cartago from the west, you’ll fly by high-rises and billboards along multilane highways, then journey past quiet plantations full of chayote along country roads that leave the city to the east. Though it’s just 25 km (15.5 mi) to the northwest, San José feels light-years away.

Cartago also serves as the gateway to attractions inside and outside of the region, including Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú, whose namesake volcano can be seen to the north of the city, and Parque Nacional Chirripó and the bird-watcher’s haven of San Gerardo de Dota, which are tens of kilometers southeast of Cartago but linked to the city via the mountainous passage known as Cerro de la Muerte.

East of Cartago, Highway 10 and Road 230 climb steadily over mountainous terrain from the slopes of Volcán Irazú to those of Volcán Turrialba. Each route travels through several quiet communities that display authentic rural life in Costa Rica, where campesinos (farmers) raise families and have businesses that thrive from the fertile soils. Both roads hug the mountainside as they descend into a valley at the city of Turrialba, eventually meeting in its downtown core. They pass plantations of shiny-leafed plants, fields full of tall grasses, and cow-grazed pastures and farms that produce some of the country’s best coffee beans, sugarcane, and cheese. In town, carnicerías (butcheries) and panaderías (bakeries) monopolize storefronts, making this area of Costa Rica a good place to enjoy fine meats and toothsome treats.

CARTAGO

Cartago is a great city to explore, ideally in a vehicle. Marvel at its Spanish colonial architecture, much of which has weathered several earthquakes. Of all the cities in the Central Valley, Cartago has the highest elevation. The chilly, sometimes misty city is at 1,435 m (4,708 ft) elevation and is nicknamed the Ciudad de las Brumas (City of the Fogs).

Sights

Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles

Our Lady of the Angels Basilica; Avenida Central and Calle 15; 6am-7pm daily; free

At the Byzantine-style Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles, statues of guardian angels on the facade preside over the gray, white, and gold architectural masterpiece. Within the sanctuary are tall wooden arches, decorative pillars, stained-glass windows, and an opulent altar that pays homage to La Negrita, the country’s patron saint.

Ruinas de Santiago Apóstol

Santiago Apóstol Ruins; between Hwy. 10/Avenida 2 and Avenida Central, just west of Calle 1; 24 hours daily; free

Several blocks west of the basilica, the Romanesque-style Ruinas de Santiago Apóstol will catch your eye. The decrepit church was abandoned, unfinished, in 1910. It currently serves as a public park. The roofless ruins fill the park with walls of gray stone and appear distressed and somber; you can wander through the tall archways. Cartago’s occasionally foggy weather adds to the eerie aura of the place, as do legends that suggest the ruins may be haunted.

Jardín Botánico Lankester

Lankester Botanical Garden; 750 m (820 yd) southeast of Hwy. 10, 3 km (1.9 mi) southeast of downtown Cartago; tel. 506/2511-7939; www.jbl.ucr.ac.cr; 8:30am-4:30pm daily; $10 pp over age 5

One of the country’s most impressive botanical gardens, the 27-acre Jardín Botánico Lankester is overseen by the Universidad de Costa Rica (University of Costa Rica). It’s a marvelous showing of tropical plants, including bromeliads, heliconias, and palms, plus cacti and succulents. Most visitors are mesmerized by the extensive orchid collection, which contains roughly 1,000 varieties across native, exotic, and miniature species. My favorite are the jade vines; their intense aqua coloring is most striking. Wander through various displays, such as a fern garden and a serene Japanese garden, at your own pace. Wheelchair-accessible trails make the garden easy to zip through, but you’ll benefit from slow exploration. Give yourself two hours to see everything.

Festivals and Events

Romería de la Virgen de los Ángeles

A significant religious event for the Roman Catholic population is the Romería de la Virgen de los Ángeles (Pilgrimage of the Virgin of the Angels). Each year on August 1, over one million Costa Ricans walk more than 20 km (12.4-mi) from San José to Cartago’s Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles (Our Lady of the Angels Basilica; Avenida Central and Calle 15). Some crawl the last few meters on their hands and knees; others begin the walk days before from towns outside the Central Valley. On August 2, known as the Día de la Virgen de los Ángeles (Day of the Virgin of the Angels), a mass (6pm) unites the townspeople and draws Costa Rican dignitaries. After mass, bishops lead prayers and a procession known as the Santo Rosario de la Luz (Holy Rosary of Light) through the plaza in front of the church.

Foreigners and nonreligious individuals are welcome to participate in all of the festivities. The volume of church visitors makes it difficult to attend the mass, but you can explore the church’s interior before or after the ceremony; the church is open 24 hours on August 1-2. You can also join in with the crowd that congregates in the plaza to watch the evening procession.

Food and Accommodations

Restaurante Los Pizotes

Hwy. 10, 22 km (13.7 mi) east of Hwy. 2; tel. 506/2534-6097; 11am-8:30pm daily; $7.50-14

Whenever I take Highway 10 east of Cartago on my way to Turrialba or the Caribbean coast, I stop at Restaurante Los Pizotes for a heaping plate of tasty arroz con pollo (rice with chicken) or a filling casado with a side of picadillo (diced mixed vegetables, often featuring potato, squash, or heart of palm). This restaurant provides a slightly classier dining experience than the average soda (traditional Costa Rican family restaurant) and is welcoming of tourists but caters to locals. Consequently, the prices aren’t inflated, and the food is delicious enough to keep customers coming back for more.

Mi Tierra

Road 219, 5 km (3.1 mi) east of Hwy. 2; tel. 506/2551-7090; www.mitierrarestaurante.com; 6:30am-9pm Mon.-Sat., 6:30am-7pm Sun.; $12.50-22.50

On the north side of the city, conveniently positioned along the route to Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú, is Mi Tierra, your best option for food or drinks around Cartago. The casual rustic spot resembles a Western saloon, but its refined traditional dishes are anything but old fashioned. Costa Rican favorites like pozol (corn and pork soup) and horchata (a sweet and creamy blend of ground rice, condensed milk, and cinnamon) fill the restaurant’s comprehensive menu.

GrandPas Hotel

off Road 219, 200 m (656 ft 219 yd) north of Road 230; tel. 506/2536-6666; www.grandpashotel.com; $70 s, $107 d

Most people who visit Cartago don’t stay overnight unless they’re visiting Volcán Irazú early the next morning. In that case, book a night at GrandPas Hotel. This hotel is the preferred choice of local and international professional athletes, who come to train at high altitude. Each of the 11 basic rooms (some are built to look like log cabins) are clean and come with comfortable beds and in-room heaters to take the chill out of the brisk evening air.

Information and Services

Cartago has a hospital, Hospital Maximiliano Peralta Jiménez (Avenida 6, between Calle 2 and Calle 4; tel. 506/2550-1999; 24 hours daily), and a police station (Avenida 1 at Calle 11; tel. 506/2592-0648; 24 hours daily).

On the southwest corner of the Ruinas de Santiago Apóstol (between Hwy. 10/Avenida 2 and Avenida Central, just west of Calle 1) is a pharmacy, Farmacia Central (tel. 506/2551-0698; 7:30am-7:30pm Mon.-Sat., 7:30am-5:30pm Sun.). Two blocks west of the north side of the ruins is a bank, Banco Nacional (Avenida Central and Calle 4; tel. 506/2212-2000; 8:30am-3:45pm Mon.-Fri.) with an ATM (5am-11pm daily). The city’s post office (Hwy. 10/Avenida Central, between Calle 16 and Calle 18; tel. 506/2552-4595; 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-noon Sat.) is six blocks west of Banco Nacional. Additional banks, pharmacies, and supermarkets are spread out across the city.

Getting There

Cartago is a 25-km (15.5-mi), 40-minute drive southeast from downtown San José via Highways 2 and 10. From Alajuela, it’s a 45-km (28-mi), 70-minute drive southeast via Highways 1, 39, 2, and 10. From downtown Liberia, Cartago is a 235-km (146 mi) drive southeast via Highways 1, 23, 27, 39, 2, and 10 that takes roughly three hours and 40 minutes.

Cartago is accessible from the west by Highway 2, which connects with Highway 10, the city’s main thoroughfare. Highway 10 splits into two parallel streets as it crosses the city, Avenida Central (traffic flows east) and Avenida 2 (traffic flows west). Highway 10 exits Cartago’s east side toward Turrialba.

Cartago can be reached by bus from San José or Turrialba. Multiple bus stops speckle the city’s downtown core.

S PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN IRAZÚ

GOOGLE MAP

Irazú Volcano National Park; Road 219, 30 km (19 mi) north of downtown Cartago; tel. 506/2200-5025; www.sinac.go.cr; 8am-3:30pm daily; Crater Sector last entry 2pm, Prusia Sector last entry 1pm; $15 ages 13-65, $5 ages 2-12

Costa Rica’s tallest volcano, Volcán Irazú (Irazú Volcano), deserves its nickname El Coloso (The Colossus). It peaks at a whopping 3,432 m (11,260 ft) above sea level and is the most visited attraction in the Cartago area. Not only are trips up the mountainside pleasant journeys that cut through picturesque villages and vast vegetable farms, but Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú also possesses a crater that’s different from anything else you’ll see in Costa Rica. Unlike the gradual basin that tops Volcán Poás, the crater at Volcán Irazú drops 300 steep m (984 ft) from its rim into a pit. The dramatic display may quicken your heartbeat and have you grasping for the guardrail that lines the crater’s edge.

the crater of Volcán Irazú

Road-Tripping Around the Valle de Orosi

The Valle de Orosi (Orosi Valley) seems like it came straight from a postcard: Soft rolling hills tumble toward quiet communities, winding country roads trace the mountainsides, and grassy fields sway in gentle breezes. The picturesque area, anchored by the peaceful villages of Orosi, Cachí, and Ujarrás, is regarded as one of the country’s prettiest destinations. Come prepared with an empty memory card for your camera, but know that photos pale in comparison to firsthand views of the dramatic countryside.

Trips to Valle de Orosi are best coordinated with time spent in Cartago or Turrialba; the valley falls along Road 224, an offshoot of the section of Highway 10 that connects the two cities. Road 224 begins at the town of Paraíso (7 km/4.3 mi southeast of downtown Cartago and 33 km/20 mi southwest of Turrialba) and loops around Lago Cachí (Cachí Lake) for 30 km (19 mi) before returning to Highway 10. Give yourself 1-2 hours to road-trip around the valley and take in its various sights.

If ever there was a perfect place to picnic in Costa Rica, it’s in the Valle de Orosi. Pack your own breakfast or lunch and enjoy a meal at one of many scenic spots along Road 224. Otherwise, there are very few restaurants in the area. A few accommodations cluster in Orosi, but others are spread out around the loop.

SIGHTS

• Three km (1.9 mi) south of Paraíso, the well-maintained Mirador de Orosi (Orosi Lookout; 8am-4pm daily), a grassy knoll at the top of a flight of stairs, overlooks the valley, the narrow Río Orosi, and the distant town of Orosi, which sits at the base of lofty verdant hills.

• Five km (3.1 mi) south of the mirador, in the small town of Orosi, a quick detour off Road 224 (one block west at the fútbol field) leads to the charming Iglesia de Orosi. Built in 1743, the small Roman Catholic church is one of the oldest churches in Costa Rica. Inside, a small museum (1pm-5pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-5pm Sun.; $1 pp) pays homage to the religious center’s history. Photographs without flash are permitted.

• Approaching Cachí, 13 km (8.1 mi) beyond Orosi on Road 224, Lago Cachí dominates the view. The lake is set amid a backdrop of mountains, some of which pop in shades of orange when the flowers on the poro trees bloom. As you drive through this section of the valley, be sure to pull over to snap a photo of the green-blue lake, which has still water adorned with clusters of aquatic plants.

• A few kilometers north of Cachí, Road 224 switchbacks and travels west to the village of Ujarrás. A quick turnoff from the road into the village takes you to the Ruinas de Ujarrás (Ujarrás Ruins; 8am-4pm daily), a crumbling photo-worthy limestone church fronted by a sign that details the history of this national monument. These ruins are believed to be the remains of Costa Rica’s oldest church, erected in the late 1500s.

• From the ruins, it’s a 3-km (1.9-mi) drive northwest on Road 224 to the Mirador Ujarrás (Ujarrás Lookout; 8am-4pm daily), an observation deck that overlooks the valley, Lago Cachí, the village of Ujarrás, and fields of coffee. From this mirador, a short 1.5-km (0.9-mi) drive to Highway 10 concludes one of the most visually impressive in-country journeys you can make.

The volcano’s harsh environment doesn’t support much wildlife. Volcano juncos (a kind of sparrow) and perhaps gray foxes are the most interesting finds.

From Road 219, a small booth marks the entrance to the park’s Crater Sector, beyond which a 1.5-km (0.9-mi) road ends at a public parking lot and a visitor center that has restrooms and a small cafeteria. It costs $4 to park in the Crater Sector’s parking lot. A second, less popular area of the park is the Prusia Sector (21 km/13 mi southwest of the main ranger station, off Road 219; tel. 506/2200-4422). You’re welcome to explore either sector without a guide. Self-guided visits do not require reservations, but a reservation is advised if you plan to visit the Crater Sector during the high season. Park tickets can be purchased online through the Sistema Nacional de Áreas de Conservación (National System of Conservation Areas, SINAC; www.sinac.go.cr). You must select a date and time for your visit; time slots are provided in one-hour blocks.

Within the Crater Sector, the 200-m-long (219-yd) wheelchair-accessible Sendero Principal (Main Trail) provides a direct path to the main crater from the parking lot. You’ll stand in a wide-open space grounded by dark volcanic sand and breathe in air laced with sulfuric and smoky scents. When the sky is clear—typically in the early morning, as clouds tend to roll in during the midmorning or afternoon—you can peer over the crater’s edge into the seemingly bottomless pit, which once contained a bright-green lake. Remain mindful of the park’s makeshift wooden guardrail and gaps in the rails large enough for young children to fit through. Don’t just keep an eye on your little ones; keep them within arm’s reach.

From the less-visited Prusia Sector, you can explore the park’s coniferous forest via a 16-km (9.9-mi) web of trails. Wildlife-spotting opportunities are limited, save for some species of high-altitude birds, including woodpeckers, hummingbirds, and tanagers.

Temperatures in the park average 4-10°C (40-50°F), so wear pants and bring a sweatshirt or jacket. Sometimes it’s sunny enough to warrant wearing sunscreen, and other times it’s rainy. Come prepared for both scenarios.

Getting There

To get to the Crater Sector, take Road 219 for 30 km (19 mi) (approximately 45 minutes) north from Cartago. The paved route does not require a 4WD vehicle and ends at the park’s entrance.

The turnoff for the Prusia Sector, best accessed in a 4WD vehicle, is off Road 219, about 17 km (10.6 mi) before the Crater Sector’s entrance. From the turnoff, it’s a 4-km (2.5-mi) drive north to the Prusia Sector entrance. From Cartago, it’s a half-hour drive north to the Prusia Sector’s entrance.

You can reach the park by bus. Buses depart once daily, usually in the morning, from San José and Cartago.

TURRIALBA

Despite the tourism boom that hit Costa Rica in the 1990s and has continued ever since, Turrialba feels impervious to change. On any given day, only a handful of foreigners can be seen roaming downtown, where Costa Ricans carry out daily routines and salute familiar faces with a smile. Occasionally, members of the Indigenous Cabecar group visit Turrialba to purchase food and supplies that they’ll later carry on their backs through thick forest to homes in the mountains southeast of town.

The closest most travelers, apart from off-the-beaten-path explorers, come to the city are the hamlets of Tres Equis and Santa Marta, halfway between Turrialba and the Caribbean town of Siquirres. The two communities provide access roads to Río Pacuare, where white-water rafters on organized day tours come from all over Costa Rica to raft raging rapids. (Most river put-ins are halfway between Turrialba and the town of Siquirres; see the Caribbean Coast chapter on click here for more information.)

Sights

Monumento Nacional Guayabo

Guayabo National Monument; 4.5 km (2.8 mi) west of Road 415, 13.5 km (8.4 mi) north of downtown Turrialba; tel. 506/2559-1220; www.sinac.go.cr; 8am-3:30pm daily; $6 pp ages 2-65

The archaeological findings at Costa Rica’s protected national monument, the Monumento Nacional Guayabo, are wildly intriguing. The one-of-a-kind 50-acre excavation site is in a 575-acre rainforest reserve and displays illustrative petroglyphs, deep well-like tombs, large mounds on which homes were once built, cobblestone roads and steps, and an ingenious water filtration system. Each feature is a snapshot of Indigenous life 1000 BC-AD 1400, at a site that was occupied and then abandoned long before the Spanish colonization. Information placards around the monument explain much of what historians have confirmed about the site’s inhabitants, including their hunting and farming techniques and their use of clan hierarchies topped by political chiefs and religious shamans. Only one-fifth of the archaeological site has been excavated so far.

central mound at the Monumento Nacional Guayabo

Walks around the monument follow the 1-km (0.6-mi) Sendero Los Montículos (Los Montículos Trail), an easy hike with short inclines, declines, and some stairs, to points of interest including a forest mirador (lookout) where the grounds can be viewed from above. Additional observation points and the area’s natural flora are showcased along the less popular 300-m (328-yard) Sendero Caragra (Caragra Trail) and the 1-km (0.6-mi) Sendero El Canto del Agua (El Canto del Agua Trail).

It’s easy to tour the historic site on your own, but guides can help explain the cultural significance of the many tools and objects you’ll come across along the trek. Tour guides can be hired at the monument’s entrance, if not reserved in advance through the Asociación de Guías Locales de Desarrollo Ecoturístico de Guayabo (Local Guides Association for Guayabo Ecotourism Development; tel. 506/8534-1063; www.usurecr.org; 8am-4pm Mon.-Sat.), commonly known as U-SURE, the monument’s in-house team of tour guides. The guided experience costs $20 pp and takes roughly 90 minutes.

Guided tours (8am and noon daily; 3.5 hours; $70 pp) offered by Turrialba outfitter Explornatura (1.5 km/0.9 mi northwest of Hwy. 10 in downtown Turrialba; tel. 506/2556-0111; www.explornatura.com; 7am-7pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-5pm Sun.) include the monument entrance fee and round-trip transportation between the monument and Turrialba hotels.

Mountain Biking

The beloved sport of many active Turrialbeños (Turrialba residents) is mountain biking. If you journey to Turrialba, you’re bound to come across several cyclists as they make their way up the hills and mountains that surround the town. Keep an eye out for them after dark, especially on narrow, winding, shoulder-less roads.

Ecoaventuras

Hwy. 10, 200 m (219 yd) west of the Maxi Palí supermarket; tel. 506/2556-7171; www.ecoaventuras.co.cr; 10am-8pm Mon.-Sat.

Ecoaventuras, a small Turrialba tour operator with well-known adventure lovers as owners, runs the vicinity’s most scenic mountain biking experience.

Their Mountain Bike Irazú-Turrialba Volcanoes Tour (9am daily; 5 hours; $125 pp) follows a 50-km (31-mi), primarily downhill route from the height of Volcán Irazú to the valley of Turrialba. If you’re most content exploring new places on a bike, you’ll love this two-wheel tour of small-town Costa Rica. Dress warmly for the trip; temperatures can dip to 15°C (59°F) at high elevations.

Food and Accommodations

Santo Pan Estación Atlántico

Avenida Monge Dumani, 250 m (273 yd) northeast of Hwy. 10; tel. 506/8516-5251; www.estacionsantopan.com; 6am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 6am-7pm Sun.; $4-13

Bakeries face stiff competition in Turrialba. One of the city’s newest is also my new favorite: Santo Pan Estación Atlántico. Set in the city’s defunct railway station and adorned with antiques and photos that reveal a Turrialba of yesteryear, this small café has a charming atmosphere that’s every bit as delightful as its whimsical decor and eclectic menu. Traditional Costa Rican baked goods, like empanadas filled with sweet chiverre (a type of squash), and staple treats, like cupcakes, fill the bakery’s display case, but the café is also a good place to grab a sandwich (choose from eight varieties) if you want something more substantial.

Betico Grill Garden

Hwy. 10; tel. 506/2556-2020; 11am-11pm Sun.-Thurs., 11am-midnight Fri.-Sun.; $15-25

Drive or take a taxi two minutes up the hill on the west side of downtown Turrialba and you’ll find Betico, a superb restaurant and grill that’s adored by locals and has a prime view of the city. This place serves authentic Costa Rican food but in a classier setting than a soda (traditional Costa Rican family restaurant). Most sought after are the barbecued meats.

S Ladera Hotel

formerly La Cascada B&B; Road 230, 6 km (3.7 mi) north of downtown Turrialba; tel. 506/8844-9539; www.laderacostarica.com; $68 s/d

The Ladera Hotel feels like your own private mountainside residence. Five large spotless rooms, two of which adjoin, occupy the homey building and face a covered open-air patio that overlooks the most beautiful panorama of Turrialba. In the daytime, clouds and birds glide through the dramatic valley below the hotel. After dark, the city lights flicker softly like a thousand distant candles. You won’t find a more peaceful place for a better price in the area. Throw in warm hospitality from the Tico owner and stays here are worth every penny.

Turrialtico Lodge

Hwy. 10, 8 km (5 mi) east of downtown Turrialba; tel. 506/2538-1111; www.turrialtico.com; $75 s/d

Turrialba provides access to the famed Río Pacuare (see the Caribbean Coast chapter on click here for more information), where white-water rafters come from all over Costa Rica to venture out in the raging rapids on organized day tours. The garden-bedecked two-story Turrialtico Lodge is perched on a quiet mountaintop. The 15 rustic rooms have one or two double beds, private balconies or terraces, fans, and coffeemakers. Brew a cup of local coffee and enjoy it from the hotel’s reading nook or living room—or from the outdoor cliff-side deck that showcases a breathtaking valley view. Situated along the access road to Río Pacuare put-in sites, Turrialtico is the preferred lodging of white-water rafters who tour the river out of Turrialba.

Rancho Naturalista

off Road 414, 20 km (12.4 mi) southeast of downtown Turrialba; tel. 506/2100-1855; www.ranchonaturalista.net; $215 s, $430 d

Outside Turrialba, the peaceful Rancho Naturalista is a bird-watcher’s haven. More than 450 bird species have been spotted around the property’s nature trails and streams, which you’re welcome to explore at your own pace or with a resident tour guide ($50-70 pp). The variety of hummingbirds is most impressive. Fifteen charming rooms, each one named after a type of bird you can see around the hotel, occupy the two-story lodge and four cabins. Each room is slightly different, but most have rustic furnishings and one or two beds for 1-4 people. Three daily communal gourmet meals are included to avoid half-hour commutes into the city to get food.

Information and Services

Turrialba has a post office (Calle 0, 200 m/219 yd north of the central park; tel. 506/2556-7670; 9am-5pm Mon.-Fri.), a police station (Hwy. 10 at Avenida 9; tel. 506/2556-0030; 24 hours daily), and Hospital William Allen Taylor (Hwy. 10, across from the bus station; tel. 506/2558-1300; 24 hours daily).

Several pharmacies, most of which are open 8am-8pm daily, are along Highway 10/Calle 2 in the city’s core. There’s a Banco Nacional (tel. 506/2556-1211; 8:30am-3:30pm Mon.-Fri.) with an ATM (5am-10pm daily) on Avenida 0 at the east end of town; a large Megasuper supermarket (7am-9pm Mon.-Sat.) is one block north at Avenida 2 and Calle 3.

Getting There

Turrialba is a 60-km (37-mi), 1.5-hour drive east from downtown San José via Highway 2, Road 219, Road 230, and Highway 10. From Alajuela, it’s an 80-km (50-mi), 2-hour drive east via Highways 1, 39, and 2; Roads 219 and 230; and Highway 10. From downtown Liberia, it’s a 270-km (165-mi) drive southeast on Highways 1, 23, 27, 39, and 2; Roads 219 and 230; and Highway 10 that takes slightly less than 5 hours.

Highway 10, the main road that enters the city from the west, loops around the downtown core and exits the area to the east, eventually turning north and climbing up a mountain before descending toward the Caribbean.

A few adventure and nature tours by Exploradores Outdoors (tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com) include post-tour onward transportation to Turrialba. White-water rafting tours, multiday Tortuguero expeditions, and combined rafting and Tortuguero packages can be arranged to include a pickup from your hotel in San José, Alajuela, La Fortuna, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, Tortuguero, Cahuita, or Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, then a drop-off at your hotel in Turrialba.

Turrialba can also be reached by public bus from San José and Cartago. There are several bus stops in the city’s walkable downtown core.

S Bird-Watching in San Gerardo de Dota

Among moss-covered riverbanks, trout ponds, aromatic hydrangea bushes, and pretty orchards full of apples, plums, and blackberries is the tranquil community of mountainside lodges collectively known as San Gerardo de Dota. Occupying its own quiet crevice deep in the Valle de Río Savegre (Savegre River Valley), 65 km (40 mi) southeast of the city of Cartago via Highway 2 and Calle San Gerardo (a 1.5-hour drive), the scenic destination remains off most travelers’ radar, except those of devoted birders who flock to the spot for prime bird-watching.

Arguably, Costa Rica’s most crowd-pleasing bird is the resplendent quetzal; it thrills patient gazers with its shimmery plumage, blue-green tail feathers, and crimson breast. To witness one in flight, especially a male with a flowing train in tow (some grow up to 1 m/3.3 ft long), is truly a spectacular sight. While the magnificent members of the trogon family aren’t easy to spot around the country, they flourish in San Gerardo de Dota among the high elevation and many aguacatillo trees. Other eminent highland bird species, including stunningly beautiful hummingbirds, are commonly spotted flying around the misty, cool destination.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Optimal bird-watching requires early-morning starts, so it’s best to give yourself at least one night in the area. My favorite places to stay in the valley are the Trogón Lodge (Calle San Gerardo, 6.5 km/4 mi south of Hwy. 2; tel. 506/2293-8181; www.trogonlodge.com; $142 s, $170 d), the best option if you intend to take a guided bird-watching tour while in the area, and the Savegre Hotel Nature Reserve & Spa (Calle San Gerardo, 9.1 km/5.6 mi south of Hwy. 2; tel. 506/2740-1028; www.savegre.com; $111 s/d), where you can go on self-guided bird-watching outings around the property’s 1,200-acre nature reserve for free as an overnight guest.

GUIDED BIRDING EXCURSIONS

Nearly every hotel in the valley offers guided birding excursions. I like the tours arranged by bird specialist Greivin Gonzalez, an administrator of the Trogón Lodge. The hotel’s Quetzal Quest (5:30am daily; 2 hours; $37 pp) aims to deliver you at least one sighting by visiting trees where the birds are most commonly spotted. Gonzalez suggests sightings are 90 percent guaranteed (on average, across the whole year).

If you seek a variety of highland birds, the hotel’s general bird-watching tour (9am and 2pm daily; 2 hours; $64 pp) explores riverbanks and nature trails in search of many of the area’s 170 resident bird species. Both tours explore trails around the Trogón Lodge and provide a mild hiking experience.

UNGUIDED BIRD-WATCHING

You can try your luck at spotting quetzals without a guide by stationing yourself near a quetzal nest and waiting, sometimes for hours, for one or more of the birds to emerge. If you ask around, a local can tell you where you can find the most frequented nests, which are almost always in decaying trees with soft wood.

I’ve had great success seeing quetzals around the forest clearing beyond the big iron gate just north of San Gerardo de Dota’s church and school (2.5 km/1.5 mi down the road from the Trogón Lodge), where a tree trunk roughly 50 m (164 ft) beyond the gate houses a popular nest. Access to the property beyond the gate is prohibited, but it’s easy to view the tree—and the family of quetzals that fly around it—from wide gaps between the gate’s bars. Just after dawn, tour groups descend on the gate, so go early (aim to be there at 5:15am) if you want a prime viewing spot. If you’re not in a rush to leave, stick around until after the tour groups depart (around 8am); I’ve also seen quetzals coming and going from the nest later in the morning, when there’s no one in the vicinity and it’s profoundly quiet.

A half-hour drive north of San Gerardo de Dota is Parque Nacional Los Quetzales (Los Quetzales National Park; Hwy. 2, 3.5 km/2.2 mi west of Calle San Gerardo; tel. 506/2206-5020; www.sinac.go.cr; 8am-4pm daily; $10 adults, $5 ages 2-12), where you can search for birds on trails suitable for self-guided exploration amid the park’s cloud forest setting. Rarely busy, quiet, soggy, foggy, and brisk, the park is home to volcano juncos, sooty robins, highland tinamous, and other types of highland birds, plus an impressive 65 species of butterflies.

S Parque Nacional Chirripó

GOOGLE MAP

Of the many mountains and volcanoes that give Costa Rica its rugged terrain, the most sought-after summit is Cerro Chirripó (Chirripó Hill), coveted for its reachable peak (3,820 m/12,533 ft elevation). Hikes to this spot in distant Parque Nacional Chirripó (Chirripó National Park; 135 km/84 mi southeast of Cartago; tel. 506/2742-5348; www.sinac.go.cr; $18 pp) provide the country’s most extreme trekking experience. Rising more than 2,500 m (8,202 ft) in elevation, the route to the summit is a nearly 20-km (12.4-mi) uphill climb over the Cordillera de Talamanca alongside rare páramo (high plains). To say the least, it’s a wild and humbling adventure that will thrill your senses and reward you with a sense of accomplishment.

The primary sector of the national park is the San Gerardo Sector (on the west side of the park). Far less visited are the San Jerónimo Sector (on the south side of the park) and the Herradura Sector (on the west side of the park, north of the San Gerardo Sector).

PLANNING YOUR TREK

To some hikers, climbing Chirripó is a dream come true. To others, it’s a logistical nightmare. Gone are the days when visits could be planned on the fly: Strict booking and payment requirements, which must be adhered to within tight timelines, are now enforced.

The hamlet of San Gerardo de Rivas, just shy of the entrance to the San Gerardo Sector, is where you’ll find most of the park’s administrative offices.

Permits and Reservations

The first step of the Chirripó reservation process is to reserve a park permit ($18 pp per day) at www.sinac.go.cr, the website for Costa Rica’s Sistema Nacional de Áreas de Conservación (National System of Conservation Areas, SINAC). Book as early as possible (at least six months in advance) because the 52 spaces available each day tend to sell out, especially on weekends and December-April, when weather conditions are most favorable. At the end of the reservation process, you’ll pay for your permit with a credit card.

After completing the process online, you’ll receive a permit confirmation number. Email this number to info@chirripo.org, the address of the Oficinas Servicios Turísticos Chirripó Consorcio Aguas Eternas (Chirripó Eternal Waters Consortium Tourist Service Offices). This organization is the only outfit authorized to make room and board arrangements at Crestones base camp, the only public lodging within the San Gerardo Sector. They’ll provide you with a link to officially book your overnight stays and meals. The next step of the process requires that you pay (online, via credit card) for your accommodations within 5 days of the link being provided. Meals can be selected and paid for online up to 15 days prior to your hike. If payment is not made within the deadlines, your permit and reservation will be canceled. Same-day bookings, reservations made over the phone or in person, and cash payments are not accepted.

Base Camp

Overnight stays ($36.50 pp) are permitted at the Crestones base camp for 1-2 nights December-April and 1-3 nights May-November. The solar-powered dormitory-style accommodation sleeps 52 visitors plus 8 staff in bunk beds. A sheet, a pillow, and either a sleeping bag or two blankets are provided at no additional cost. Extras of these items, as well as towels, are available for rent for $2-8. Toilet paper and soap are stocked in the baths; showers run ice-cold. Electricity-powered lighting is provided from nightfall (approximately 6pm) to 8pm. Camping and nighttime trail exploration is not permitted in the park.

Food options are selected and purchased during the reservation process. Meals (5:30am-8:30am, 12:30pm-3pm, and 6pm-7pm daily) range in price from $6 for a hot drink and snack to $11 for breakfast and $12 for lunch or dinner. Vegetarian options are available but must be requested in advance.

The base camp has a small shop (5:30am-7pm daily) stocked with souvenirs, basic medical supplies, beverages, and snacks.

Porters

If you’re wondering how best to manage the hike with your gear in tow, you’re in luck: You don’t have to. Several locals make a living as porters who transport luggage between San Gerardo de Rivas and the base camp either on their backs or by horse, weather permitting. The luggage-hauling service (one-way) costs $4.50 per kilogram. Porters can be hired at the Oficinas Servicios Turísticos Chirripó Consorcio Aguas Eternas (southwest corner of the fútbol field, San Gerardo de Rivas; tel. 506/2742-5097; www.chirripo.org; 8am-5pm daily). Bags are weighed, dropped off, and paid for at this same location. Return service down the mountain must be coordinated at the base camp no later than 4pm the day before your descent. Your bags will be weighed again at the base camp; you’ll pay for them at the Oficinas Servicios Turísticos Chirripó Consorcio Aguas Eternas following your descent.

Packing Tips

Pack light to avoid carrying—or making porters carry—unnecessary weight up and down the mountain. Rent towels and extra items like blankets at the base camp to save space in your bag. Purchase your meals during the reservation process to avoid carrying large amounts of food. You can bring nonperishable items like granola and protein bars, but you must carry out your trash.

Temperatures on the mountain vary widely, from nighttime lows of −9°C (15°F) to daytime highs of 16°C (60°F). Pack comfortable hiking clothes, a good pair of hiking shoes, and a rain jacket or a poncho. Plan on layering your clothing. Be sure to bring a warm jacket, gloves, a hat, and a scarf in preparation for below-freezing temperatures at high elevations.

Other items to bring include two one-liter durable water bottles (potable water is available at kilometer 7 and the base camp), a flashlight or a headlamp with spare batteries, sunglasses, sunscreen, insect repellent, toiletries, a small amount of money to pay for rentals or other items at the base camp, and a first-aid kit that contains treatments for cuts, blisters, burns, insect bites, muscle pain, allergic reactions, digestive upsets, and headaches. Be sure to bring any prescription medications you need. You may also want to bring a small alarm clock, earplugs, and water purification tablets in case of an emergency.

Other Hiking Options

The 2016 inauguration of a trail beyond the San Jerónimo Sector has led to increased interest in reaching Cerro Chirripó from areas other than San Gerardo de Rivas. While the route within the San Gerardo Sector remains the most frequented, adventurous travelers in search of an experience even more isolated from civilization can consider exploring the park from the tiny community of San Jerónimo. Hikes through that sector are organized through the San Jerónimo cooperative La Asociación de Turismo Cerro Ena (Cerro Ena Tourism Association, ATURENA; tel. 506/4406-4542; www.aturena.com; 9am-5pm daily); a guide is hired for these hikes.

HIKING

Cerro Chirripó Trek

40 km (24.9 mi) round-trip; 2 days with overnight camping (16-17.5 hours nonstop); very difficult

Cerro Chirripó

Registration

On the first day of your trek, you’ll need to register your start at the Área Administrativa Parque Nacional Chirripó (Chirripó National Park Administrative Area; Road 242, 600 m southwest of the fútbol field, San Gerardo de Rivas; tel. 506/2742-5348; 8am-noon and 1pm-4pm daily) between 8am and 10am. Starting after 10am is not permitted, as this doesn’t allow enough time to get to the base camp before nightfall. If you want to set out earlier than 8am, you’ll need to register one day in advance, 8am-4pm. Note that you don’t need to make any changes to your reservation date if you want to depart before 8am; you only need to register the day before your reservation date.

Once you’ve registered, head up the street to the Oficinas Servicios Turísticos Chirripó Consorcio Aguas Eternas (southwest corner of the fútbol field, San Gerardo de Rivas; tel. 506/2742-5097; www.chirripo.org; 8am-5pm daily) to reconfirm your lodging and meal bookings.

The trailhead is approximately 1.5 km (0.9 mi) northeast of San Gerardo de Rivas. From there, a 14.5-km (9-mi) hike (roughly 4 km/2.5 mi to the park’s boundary and another 10 km/6.2 mi within it) leads to the Crestones base camp, the only public lodging within the San Gerardo Sector.

On the Trail

Ready to go? The Sendero Principal San Gerardo (Principal San Gerardo Trail) is challenging from the start and will either spike your adrenaline in anticipation of what lies ahead or will leave you questioning what you’ve gotten yourself into. Forge forward and you’ll find yourself counting down kilometers, each one well marked and named for the conditions, scenery, or wildlife associated with the area.

Some stretches, like El Jilguero (Sooty Robin, km 3), travel through shaded, verdant cloud forest, and others, including Los Quemados (The Burned, km 11), explore open land cooked a few times over by incessant forest fires. Llano Bonito (Pretty Plain, km 7) offers a rest stop with restrooms, potable water, and a small store (5am-2pm daily Dec.-Apr., 5am-2pm Fri.-Sun. May-Nov.) where you can buy energizing drinks and snacks with cash—and it’s a good thing because the treacherous section that follows, Cuesta de Agua (Water Slope, km 8), is an uphill feat for the fittest that provides little opportunity to rest.

Going nonstop, the average fit hiker reaches the base camp 7-8 hours after departing from the trailhead. Poor weather conditions, which can shift on a whim, can lengthen the journey by a few hours. Regular climbers can conquer the mountain in much less time.

Summiting Cerro Chirripó

There are many great firsts you can have in Costa Rica—your first adrenaline-inducing zip-line ride, your first encounter with a monkey in the cageless wild, your first sip of locally harvested coffee, and so many noteworthy others—but few top the feeling of summiting Cerro Chirripó. You can train for the climb, plan for mountain conditions, and pack for the trip, but it’s difficult to prepare mentally for the experience. The hike is arduous—each kilometer a test of perseverance and a war with fatigue—not to mention a roller coaster of emotions that propels you forward with excitement and sickens you with self-doubt. But at the end is the moment of victory when you stand atop the mountain’s peak, overcome with relief and joy. The 360-degree view you’ll earn is sensational, filled with lakes and rock formations, valleys and peaks of distant volcanoes, the Caribbean Sea, and the Pacific Ocean. Equally rewarding is the sense of accomplishment. The invigorating mix of pleasure and pride can’t be felt everywhere in Costa Rica, which is why ascents to Cerro Chirripó are such coveted experiences and make lifetime memories.

Cerro Chirripó awaits roughly 5 km (3.1 mi) northeast of the base camp and squeezes another 1.5-2 hours of hiking out of weary travelers. Most hikers spend a night in the park in order to rise early the next morning and hike to the summit before sunrise—ideally under a clear sky full of stars. The descent to the trailhead takes about six hours.

Driving Over the Hill Of Death

Countless chats with other commuters have taught me there’s no winning the debate over whether the winding drive over Cerro de la Muerte (Hill of Death) is best experienced or avoided. On one side are the many foreigners (who probably aren’t accustomed to mountain driving) who argue that the steady 70-km (43-mi) climb out of the Central Valley and Highlands region at the city of Cartago and the 40-km (25-mi) descent to the city of San Isidro de El General, 35 km (22 mi) shy of the central Pacific coast at Dominical, are intimidating challenges. On the other side are the many locals and experienced drivers (me included) who feel the passage isn’t as awful as first-time visitors are led to believe. In fact, the back roads that lead to remote areas all around the country give me greater stress than Cerro de la Muerte.

ON THE ROAD

The section of Highway 2 between Cartago and San Isidro de El General weaves around mountainsides, edges steep cliffs in a few areas, and cuts through protected forest in many others. Traveled by Ticos daily, it is also a paved and popular road that passes through small communities and offers a few establishments where you can pull over, including restaurants and a gas station. On most mornings, when conditions are clear, the drive showcases rare highland ecosystems and breathtaking valley views. If you drive slowly, cautiously, and defensively around other drivers, especially trucks, the beautiful journey is usually an enjoyable one.

DRIVING TIPS

Weather conditions can significantly affect the drive; poor visibility makes it outright dangerous. Avoid the trip after dark or in the afternoon, when dense cloud cover shrouds the area. (The same advice applies to mountainous drives anywhere in the country.)

AVOIDING THE CERRO DE LA MUERTE

It might put your mind at ease to know that the mountain’s terrifying name pertains to its frigid temperatures, not to deaths resulting from vehicular accidents—although accidents can and do happen. Still, if you’d rather not follow the route, you’re in luck: The parts of Costa Rica that are often accessed from San José by way of Cerro de la Muerte, including destinations in the central Pacific region and on the Osa Peninsula, can instead be accessed from San José via a coastal route, Highway 34, which skirts the central Pacific coast and avoids the drive over Cerro de la Muerte altogether.

Extending the Trek

Warranting an additional night’s stay are a few side trails that depart from the camp and showcase hilltops with spectacular views. Southeast of the base camp, the Sendero Los Crestones (Los Crestones Trail; 1.7 km/1.1 mi one-way; 30 minutes; moderate) is the most intriguing, as it leads past giant rock formations, declared a national symbol in 2011, that look ablaze in shades of red and orange when the sun hits them. Should you choose to spend three days in the park, you can hike some of the side trails in the morning on your last day, but park policy requires that you begin your descent from base camp no later than noon.

Getting There

Parque Nacional Chirripó occupies a remote part of the mountainous territory that divides the Caribbean and Pacific coasts in the southern half of the country. From San José, the park is a 150-km (93-mi), 3.5-hour drive southeast on Highway 2 and northeast on Road 242 that travels past Cartago, over the high-altitude area known as Cerro de la Muerte, through the city of San Isidro de El General, and up to the far-flung hamlet of San Gerardo de Rivas, where the Área Administrativa Parque Nacional Chirripó and the Oficinas Servicios Turísticos Chirripó Consorcio Aguas Eternas are located.

The trailhead for Sendero Principal San Gerardo is roughly 1.5 km (0.9 mi) northeast of the center of San Gerardo de Rivas, just beyond Hotel Urán, a hotel and mini supermarket that caters to hikers. The turnoff for the steep, bumpy drive up to the hotel is about 500 m (0.3 mi) beyond the community’s fútbol field. A 4WD vehicle is required.

La Fortuna and Monteverde

HIGHLIGHTS

MAP: LA FORTUNA AND MONTEVERDE

ORIENTATION

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Itinerary Ideas

LA FORTUNA AND MONTEVERDE IN THREE DAYS

La Fortuna and Vicinity

MAP: LA FORTUNA AND VICINITY

SIGHTS

MAP: LA FORTUNA

HOT SPRINGS

RECREATION

SHOPPING

FOOD

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

ACCOMMODATIONS

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

GETTING THERE

GETTING AROUND

PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN ARENAL

Lago Arenal and Vicinity

MAP: LAGO ARENAL AND VICINITY

EL CASTILLO

NUEVO ARENAL AND TILARÁN

CAVERNAS VENADO

Northern Inlands

S REFUGIO NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE MIXTO CAÑO NEGRO

PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN TENORIO

BIJAGUA

Monteverde and Santa Elena

MAP: MONTEVERDE AND SANTA ELENA

SIGHTS

RECREATION

ART STUDIOS AND GALLERIES

FOOD

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

ACCOMMODATIONS

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

GETTING THERE

GETTING AROUND

RESERVA BIOLÓGICA BOSQUE NUBOSO DE MONTEVERDE

S RESERVA BIOLÓGICA BOSQUE NUBOSO DE SANTA ELENA

Highlights

Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.

S Explore the rainforest along a series of suspension bridges at the Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park (click here).

S See rescued animals up close at the Proyecto Asis Wildlife and Sloth Rescue Center (click here).

S Soak in volcanic mineral pools at The Springs Resort & Spa (click here).

S Zip-line around a volcano at Arenal Sky Adventures Park (click here).

S Bird-watch at the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro (click here).

S Ride a zip line through a cloud forest at the Treetopia Park (click here).

S Connect with nature at the peaceful Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena (click here).

The northern inland area is undeniably touristy, but even adamant off-the-beaten-path travelers shouldn’t miss it. Its anchors, La Fortuna and Monteverde, illustrate much of Costa Rica’s appeal. Lush rainforest and cloud forest cover most of the region, keeping it green, gorgeous, and replete with wildlife year-round. Among the area’s memorable features are deep valleys, rich agricultural plains, an idyllic lake sunken among rolling hills, and a conical stratovolcano that never fails to make jaws drop. Hundreds of guided excursions are available day and night, immersing travelers in rich biodiversity and providing many of the country’s most thrilling adventures.

But not all that shines in the region is glitzy and over the top. La Fortuna, Monteverde, and the host of other towns and communities that contribute to the area’s allure provide sights and experiences that promote sustainability, rural community tourism, and cultural preservation. A number of organic farms offer tours, volunteer opportunities, farm-to-table dining, and homestays. Tourism companies and tour guides demonstrate conscientious business and ecological practices. A vibrant art community thrives amid hordes of souvenir shops. Indigenous people welcome foreigners to learn about their heritage.

It’s no wonder so many first-time Costa Rica travelers make it a priority to visit this region: It encompasses too many worthwhile experiences to skip. Perhaps more telling is that both La Fortuna and Monteverde remain favorites among return visitors—faithful lovers of the land who cannot seem to get their fill of adrenaline-inducing activities, nature expeditions, and Costa Rica’s joyous adventurous spirit.

ORIENTATION

La Fortuna is the hub of the country’s tourism wheel. On a daily basis, flocks of visitors arrive from all over the country, just as hordes of others check out of their Arenal-area lodgings and continue on to new locales. Because the town is centrally located between San José and Liberia, as well as the Caribbean and Pacific coasts, coordinating a visit is relatively easy from nearly anywhere in the country, including either international airport.

Geographically, Monteverde is close to La Fortuna, but Lago Arenal and the dense trees of the Bosque Eterno de los Niños block direct access between the two destinations. If you intend to visit both, do so sequentially. Most visitors kick off their time in the country with La Fortuna’s thrilling adventures before settling into gentler nature exploration in Monteverde.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Travel to the region, especially for first-time visitors, is incomplete without a multiday stay in the La Fortuna or Monteverde region—or both. If you’re up for eco-adventure, the plethora of experiences here will amaze and likely overwhelm you. Planning ahead is key and can significantly boost the quality and affordability of your trip. Secure reservations for accommodations, transportation, and activities a few weeks prior to your trip if you plan to travel May-mid-December, or 3-6 months in advance for late December-April. Book even earlier if your visit coincides with Christmas, New Year’s, or Easter. Early bookings mean discounted prices, which can help offset the area’s tourism-inflated costs.

La Fortuna is Costa Rica’s epicenter of adventure. Aim for a minimum of 2-3 days in the area but give yourself more if your schedule and budget allow. Plan on being busy: Combination tours that group multiple activities into half- or full-day experiences can save time and money. Relaxing soaks in the waters of the Catarata Río Fortuna and The Springs Resort & Spa, among other hot springs complexes, are commonly paired with hikes around Volcán Arenal and nature exploration at the Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park. At the Arenal Sky Adventures Park and other one-stop-shop adventure centers, a number of experiences can be checked off your bucket list in one day.

If you’re keen on exploring the cloud forest, you can play in the clouds at the Treetopia Park and hike through them at the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena or one of many other nature reserves in the Monteverde vicinity. In two days you can hit the highlights, including one of Monteverde’s authentic farm tours, but with additional time you can see more rural and cultural sides of Monteverde that locals know and love.

To escape the norm, spend a night or two at a less-visited destination, such as El Castillo, Nuevo Arenal, or Bijagua. Another option is to give yourself extra time in La Fortuna to experience the greater area via a day tour. During some tours, you can learn about efforts to protect the environment, preserve cultural heritage, and rehabilitate rescued animals, such as the work being done at the Proyecto Asis Wildlife and Sloth Rescue Center. Tours to other sites, including the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro and Río Celeste at the Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio, will teach you why these prized jewels of the north are some of the country’s best attractions.

Weather and Transportation

The lowland areas in the region, including La Fortuna, are consistently warm, with hot, sunny, and muggy days, especially January-April. Rain showers are frequent year-round, especially in La Fortuna, but heavier and longer-lasting downpours are more likely September-November. Fortunately, weather conditions present little challenge getting to and from the area; most roads are paved and easy to maneuver, rain or shine.

At higher elevations, there is a noticeable temperature drop. If you’re bound for windy and sometimes chilly Monteverde, pack long pants and a sweater, and don’t fault your lodging for not having air-conditioning—it’s rarely needed. Although Monteverde receives less rainfall than La Fortuna, it experiences more wind, noticeably May-December, and especially late in the year when trade winds produce forceful gusts. Regardless of when you plan to visit, if you drive yourself, be prepared to encounter fog, which can reduce visibility. It’s also a good idea to rent a 4WD vehicle; the extra traction and stability will make driving to and around this mountainous destination safer and more comfortable.

Itinerary Ideas

LA FORTUNA AND MONTEVERDE IN THREE DAYS

The northern inland area is full of experiences that are worth your time. Fittingly, this three-day itinerary is action-packed and rife with opportunities for nature immersion, helping you check off several bucket list items at two of Costa Rica’s most visited destinations: La Fortuna and Monteverde.

Day 1

1 Start in La Fortuna and maximize your time by signing up for an Arenal Highlights Tour with Desafio Adventure Company. The full-day guided combo tour not only visits several of the town’s top attractions but also provides transportation between each.

2 The tour begins with a hike at the Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park. Take in the early-morning sights and sounds of the lively rainforest canopy while searching for birds and wildlife and crossing the park’s numerous metal hanging bridges suspended among the treetops.

3 Next, the tour travels to the Catarata Río Fortuna. Make the seemingly endless descent toward the waterfall’s base, snap pictures of the powerful cascade, and take a dip in its namesake river.

4 After enjoying a complimentary traditional Costa Rican lunch, the tour sets out on one of the town’s volcano trails. Climb over lava rocks, eye stately trees, and admire other natural treasures while walking around the rainforest-wrapped foothills of Volcán Arenal.

5 The tour concludes with dinner and a relaxing evening spent at the hot springs of your choosing. Select Tabacón or The Springs Resort & Spa if you want to soak in La Fortuna’s most luxurious thermal rivers and pools.

Day 2

1 Hit the road to Monteverde early in the morning. If breakfast isn’t provided by your accommodation, grab either a quick but hearty meal at Soda La Palma, on your way out of La Fortuna, or delectable snacks at Café & Macadamia, as you journey between Nuevo Arenal and Tilarán.

2 Enjoy the scenic route around Lago Arenal and the gradual climb to the cloud forest. Stop at Cataratas La Piedra del Indio along the way to break up the drive with a hike to a beautiful four-tier waterfall.

3 Eat lunch in Santa Elena, the “downtown” of the Monteverde area, either at the health-conscious restaurant Orchid Coffee or at the authentic Costa Rican restaurant Soda La Amistad.

4 Drive out to the Treetopia Park and spend the late afternoon observing the cloud forest from above during the Sky Trek canopy tour zip-line excursion and its complimentary aerial tram ride.

5 In the evening, enjoy a romantic dinner and a wood-fired pizza at Ristorante e Pizzeria Tramonti.

Day 3

1 Drive to the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena or the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde to hike the nature trails inside one of the area’s top two cloud forest reserves. Go early in the day, when birds and wildlife are most active, and give yourself a few hours to explore. If breakfast isn’t provided by your lodging, order it and a cup of Monteverde’s finest coffee at the Choco Café before traveling to either far-flung reserve.

2 Immediately after leaving either reserve, check out a nearby wildlife exhibit. From the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena, drive to the neighboring Selvatura Park and tour the on-site sloth habitat, butterfly garden, or herpetarium. From the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde, stroll down the road to the Hummingbird Gallery to see charms of hummingbirds flying freely. The cloud forest reserves, Selvatura Park, and the Hummingbird Gallery all have restaurants on-site; grab food at whichever one is nearest when hunger strikes.

3 In the mid-to-late afternoon, catch one of the farm tours at Finca Don Juan to discover how coffee, chocolate, and sugarcane are made.

4 For dinner, treat yourself to fine-dining Monteverde-style—atop a cloud forest—at the San Lucas Treetop Dining Experience.

La Fortuna and Vicinity

The town of La Fortuna de San Carlos (“La Fortuna” for short) is geographically small but packed with restaurants, shops, and tourism offices. The area’s biggest draw is adventure tourism, unrivaled elsewhere in the country.

Choose from a seemingly endless list of stand-alone day tours or visit one of several adventure parks that provide a variety of activities, from leisurely aerial tram rides to thrilling zip-line glides. Most of La Fortuna’s experiences are family-friendly, but some outfitters have a minimum age requirement. Often dubbed the thermal capital of Costa Rica, La Fortuna is also where you’ll find the best hot springs in the country.

At the town’s core is the central park, bordered to the west by the central church, a common point of reference. From downtown La Fortuna, Road 142 (the main drag) departs west in the direction of Volcán Arenal. It skirts around the volcano and passes by countless hotels, hot springs properties, and other attractions before arriving at the Lago Arenal Dam. Most activity centers and lodgings between La Fortuna’s center and the dam are considered La Fortuna operations. The region at large is colloquially referred to as “Arenal.”

SIGHTS

Catarata Río Fortuna

Río Fortuna Waterfall; end of Road 301; tel. 506/2479-9515; www.cataratalafortuna.com; 7am-5pm daily, last entry 4pm; $18 pp over age 8

Imagine a rainforest scene so leafy and lush that it looks soft enough to snuggle in, a picture of vivid lime and emerald greens with a view that fills your gaze with gorgeous forest as far as your eyes can see. Now envision a stark white cascade slicing through the portrait and spilling into a river pool 70 m (230 ft) below. Most people who visit the Catarata Río Fortuna, also known as the La Fortuna Waterfall, have fun swimming in its waters and exploring its on-site Orchid Garden, but I love admiring the waterfall at a distance from the viewpoint just beyond the entrance.

You can catch an equally impressive view of the powerful waterfall from its base. The trail of 517 steps that leads down to the waterfall from the entrance is daunting (especially knowing that you’ll have climb back up), but worth the effort. Most visitors, including children, make the trek without a problem, and benches provide a break along the way. I don’t recommend swimming in the waterfall’s pool as the current is strong. It’s better to wade in the calmer waters slightly downstream.

Although nearly every operator in town offers guided hikes to the waterfall ($50-75 pp), the attraction is one you can easily navigate and explore on your own. Another option is to visit via a guided horseback tour (8am and 1pm daily; 4 hours; $80 adults, $61 ages 7-12; min. age 7) coordinated by the Arenal Mundo Aventura Ecological Park; the tour departs from the adventure park.

If you skip the trip down the steps and back up again, you can still see everything else that the site has to offer: A viewpoint, orchid garden, restaurant, and souvenir store are all located at the top of the property, a short and easy walk beyond the entrance.

The waterfall is at the end of Road 301, a 5.5-km (3.4-mi), 10-minute drive southwest from downtown La Fortuna. It’s also a pickup and drop-off point that you can access by shuttle at certain times of day with the Arenal Shuttle Pass ($20 pp, cash only) provided by La Choza Inn Hostel (Avenida 331, 300 m/328 yd west of the post office; tel. 506/2479-9361; www.lachozainnhostel.com).

S Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park

2.5 km (1.5 mi) north of Road 142, just beyond the Lago Arenal Dam; tel. 506/2479-8282; www.misticopark.com; 6am-4:30pm daily, last entry 3:50pm; reservations required; $32 adults, $21 ages 11-18

Amid the tourist boom throughout La Fortuna, I seek respite at the Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park. It’s one of the area’s busiest attractions, yet it remains a peaceful place where you can hear a symphony of birdsong, cicadas, and monkey howls.

Visitors flock to the park to traverse its trail system of 16 bridges, 6 of which are suspended among the treetops and allow you to hover in midair over deep rainforest valleys. The park is home to insects, birds, and the occasional monkey or sloth; the best way to experience it is alongside a guide who is trained to spot wildlife. You can take the park’s Natural History Guided Tour (8am, 9am, 10am, noon, 1pm, and 2pm; 2.5 hours; $48 adults, $36 ages 11-18, $18 ages 6-10). However, most tour operators in La Fortuna offer the same guided walk through the park, often coupling the experience with other area activities. Exploring without a guide is allowed, but all visits require reservations as capacity limits are enforced. The park prohibits sandals and hiking shoes that expose sections of skin. There’s free parking on-site, but if you won’t have a rental car, you can use the park’s round-trip transportation service ($26 pp) to travel between the park and La Fortuna hotels.

The park’s Sendero Principal (Main Trail) is an oval circuit of over 3 km (1.9 mi), consisting of uphill and downhill sections. By completing the full loop, you’ll cross all the bridges, pass through a tunnel, and be able to access the Catarata Morpho Azul (Morpho Azul Waterfall). The steep steps that lead down to the waterfall are easy to miss; look for them to the right after the Keel-Billed Toucan Bridge but before the Ant Hill Bridge. When hiked nonstop, the course takes roughly 90 minutes.

The optional Sendero de Observación de Aves (Bird-Watching Trail) connects the north and south sides of park. Visitors hike it in addition to the Sendero Principal, or as a shortcut that reduces the full circuit by 30 minutes and skips the toughest climb in the park. This aptly named trail cuts through a less-traveled area with dense forest; I regularly spot members of the motmot family perched on trees along the route.

The Sendero Accesible (Accessible Trail) explores the first 1.5 km (0.9 mi) of the park; guests with limited mobility can check out this 30-minute mini loop that features seven bridges, including one suspension bridge, and only slight trail inclines and declines.

S Proyecto Asis Wildlife and Sloth Rescue Center

GOOGLE MAP

Road 738, 500 m (0.3 mi) west of Road 141, Javillos; tel. 506/4000-1553; www.institutoasis.com; 8:30am-4pm Mon.-Sat.; by guided tour only

One of Costa Rica’s most respected wildlife rescue centers is an approximately half-hour drive southeast of La Fortuna, in the hamlet of Javillos. If you have an interest in wildlife—particularly rescued wildlife, animal rehabilitation efforts, and volunteer opportunities—it’s worth carving time out of your visit to La Fortuna to see the work underway at the Proyecto Asis Wildlife and Sloth Rescue Center and connect with its passionate operations team.

The center’s regular tour (8:30am and 1pm Mon.-Sat.; 1.5-2 hours; $35 adults, $20 ages 5-9) offers an introductory look at the project’s efforts and the animals it has rescued. A guided stroll around the grounds from one wildlife enclosure to the next reveals jungle cats, tropical birds, caimans, and monkeys. Your guide will discuss the eye-opening backstories of the abuse, neglect, or illegal trafficking of different creatures, while explaining how the center helps return as many animals as possible to the wild.

If you’re feeling philanthropic, I recommend helping with food and toy preparation, enclosure cleaning, and other tasks via the half-day tour and volunteer experience (8:30am and 1pm Mon.-Sat.; 2.5-3 hours; $60 adults, $35 ages 5-9). You may even get to feed some of the animals with the assistance of trained staff. Long-term volunteer stints that feature homestays with Costa Rican families are also available. With limited time to spend in Javillos, you can sample this experience by enrolling in the center’s one-night homestay program (Mon.-Fri.; $145 adults, $105 ages 5-9). It includes participation in the center’s tour and volunteer experience, three home-cooked meals, and an overnight stay with a host family selected by the center.

If you’re enamored by sloths, you can focus your time at the newest on-site development, a sloth rescue center. The guided sloth sanctuary tour (8:30am, 10:30am, and 1:30pm Mon.-Sat.; 1.5-2 hours; $30 adults, $18 ages 5-9) is an easy walking tour around the center’s sloth exhibit, which is an unfenced outdoor area where sloths hang out in their natural habitat. During the tour, information stations and tour guide narration provide all kinds of interesting facts about two-toed and three-toed sloths, but you’ll also learn how Proyecto Asis nurses ill or injured sloths back to health.

Businesses and individuals operating from the La Fortuna area have begun to capitalize on the world’s increasing fascination with sloths; more than a dozen sites promising sloth sightings have popped up in recent years, and countless tourism companies shuttle visitors to them on sloth tours that return easy money. Instead of fueling that process, consider putting your money to better use by visiting Proyecto Asis. The center does not receive government funding; its success depends on private donations, volunteer program enrollment fees, and proceeds from tours like the regular tour and the sloth sanctuary tour.

TOP EXPERIENCE

HOT SPRINGS

La Fortuna’s hot springs offer one of the country’s top experiences for visitors. Hot springs complexes are everywhere you look around Arenal, and competition among them is fierce. All provide an opportunity to reap the therapeutic benefits of soaking in hot water. The properties vary in size, design, quality, day-pass duration and price, child-friendliness, and pool variety. The following are my favorites.

Most complexes have a restaurant on-site and do not allow guests to enter with food or drinks purchased elsewhere. Many offer the option to include lunch or dinner in the cost of their visitors pass. The restaurants offer everything from full table service to a buffet; a mix of Costa Rican and international food is typically served. Many complexes also have on-site accommodations, although most are overpriced, with the exception The Springs Resort & Spa and Tabacón, which have rooms as luxurious as their hot springs.

Bring a small amount of cash or a credit card when you visit the hot springs. Some complexes charge for locker or towel use, and you may want to purchase drinks or souvenirs on-site.

S The Springs Resort & Spa

4 km (2.5 mi) north of Road 142, just beyond the Arenal Paraiso Resort; tel. 506/2401-3313; www.thespringscostarica.com; Cascadas Calientes 8am-10pm daily, Los Perdidos Hot Springs 10am-10pm daily; visitors pass $105 pp over age 3

I love the combination of luxury and lush surroundings at The Springs Resort & Spa. The five-story open-air resort offers a panoramic view of Volcán Arenal from every level, multitiered hot springs with waterfalls and swim-up bars, and a waterslide that is as much fun for adults as it is for kids.

This is the largest hot springs attraction in the region, with the Cascadas Calientes, 12 pools near the resort’s main building, and Los Perdidos, seven secluded lagoons a brief walk down a paved path. Visit during the day to admire the beauty of the resort’s architecture and heliconia gardens or during the evening when the mood is idyllic and romantic. Reservations are required during peak periods (Christmas, New Year’s, and Easter). At the four open-air restaurants in the resort’s main building, enjoy Costa Rican and international food and drinks along with fabulous service. Each restaurant is sophisticated but comfortable and overlooks the rainforest canopy. The on-site accommodations ($1,500 s/d) are oversize, have indoor and outdoor seating areas, and perfectly fuse rustic decor with luxury.

The Club Río Adventure Center (9am-4pm daily), the resort’s on-site adventure park where tubing, kayaking, horseback riding, rock climbing, and wildlife sanctuary tours ($24-65 pp; min. age varies by activity) take place, has additional hot springs and a restaurant.

During certain dates in peak season, the facilities at The Springs may be reserved for guests and won’t be open to the public; check the website for availability.

Tabacón

Road 142, 11 km (6.8 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-2000; www.tabacon.com; 10am-10pm daily; visitors pass $89 adults, $47 ages 6-11

Tabacón is renowned for the natural, swift-moving, hot spring-fed river that flows throughout the property as well as the beautiful gardens that create a relaxing, romantic atmosphere. Step into the river (the use of water shoes is recommended) or one of five pools for a rejuvenating soak. Although newer luxury developments around Arenal give Tabacón—La Fortuna’s oldest hot springs attraction—a run for its money, this classic remains a hit among couples and honeymooners. Meals can be purchased from the two open-air restaurants adjacent to the gardens and hot springs; they operate as buffets and provide à la carte options. For information about the on-site accommodations, see the Accommodations section on click here. Reservations are required.

Baldi Hot Springs Hotel Resort and Spa

Road 142, 4.5 km (2.8 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-2190; www.baldihotsprings.cr; 9am-10pm daily; visitors pass $47 adults, $34 ages 5-11

The Baldi Hot Springs Hotel Resort and Spa is the most popular middle-of-the-road option. One of the area’s largest properties, its 25 hot springs pools rarely feel full. Baldi appeals to a wide range of travelers: Pools with music and bars draw social groups; quieter, more intimate swimming spaces attract couples; and the water activity park at the back of the property is perfect for young children. Despite the grandeur of the entrance, the grounds don’t feel elegant, but the spa, swim-up bars, and steam room up the level of sophistication. A buffet restaurant serves traditional Costa Rican food, and an Italian restaurant provides à la carte options. Baldi also has a hotel, but the basic rooms ($492 s/d) with balconies and terraces are overpriced.

EcoTermales Fortuna

Road 142, 4.5 km (2.8 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-8787; www.ecotermalesfortuna.cr; half-day sessions 10am-4pm or 5pm-9:30pm daily; visitors pass $49 adults, $29 ages 5-11

If you prefer nature over novelty, consider the EcoTermales Fortuna. Though human-made, the property’s five contiguous waterfall-fed hot springs and an additional non-hot-spring pool flow into one another, creating an illusion that you’re swimming in a river. Natural stone and tropical foliage border the springs, which hide amid a forest clearing. Sip a cocktail poolside or while relaxing on a chaise longue under swaying palms. Visit May-November, when access to this small sought-after property is easier. Reservations are required due to the 150-person capacity for each session. Two on-site restaurants serve Costa Rican fare; one is a buffet.

Paradise Hot Springs Thermal Water Resort

Road 142, 5 km (3.1 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-1380; www.paradisehotspringscr.com; 11am-9pm daily; visitors pass $42 adults, $26 ages 3-11

Midsize Paradise Hot Springs Thermal Water Resort is one of La Fortuna’s most visited hot springs. You can avoid overt lavishness here while still pampering yourself in a budget-friendly way. Two hot springs jetted tubs provide hydromassage, and six pools vary in temperature. One pool has permanent in-water lounge beds—perfect for a lazy snooze. The on-site restaurant serves mostly Costa Rican cuisine and provides a buffet and à la carte options. A separate bocas (Costa Rica’s take on Spanish tapas) menu provides snacks inspired by American cuisine. The hotel ($361 s/d) is standard but impresses with its rich dark-wood furniture.

Los Lagos Hotel, Spa & Resort

Road 142, 5.5 km (3.4 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-1000; www.hotelloslagos.com; 9am-10pm daily; visitors pass $16 adults, $8 ages 6-9

The budget-friendly Los Lagos Hotel, Spa & Resort is gaining popularity, although much of its appeal has nothing to do with the hot springs pools. The visitors pass buys access to the on-site butterfly garden, frog farm, and crocodile farm, so arrive prepared for nature exploration in addition to relaxation. This is one of the least expensive hot springs properties in La Fortuna; it also has some of the cheapest hotel rates ($252 s/d) among the hot springs complexes. An on-site restaurant offers Costa Rican food and a selection of dishes from international cuisines.

Titokú Hot Springs

Road 142, 4.5 km (2.8 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-1700; www.hotelarenalkioro.com; partial-day sessions 10am-1pm, 1pm-3pm, 3pm-5pm, or 5pm-8pm daily; visitors pass $33 adults, $16 ages 4-11

The Titokú Hot Springs is one of La Fortuna’s hidden gems. It is an included amenity enjoyed by guests of the nearby Arenal Kioro Suites & Spa, but few know that it’s open to nonguests. The hot springs are rarely full, which means you’ll likely have some of the tiny property’s eight sequential hot springs pools to yourself. Reservations are required due to a strict 80-person capacity. There is no restaurant on-site, but visitors are welcome to dine at the restaurant at the Arenal Kioro Suites & Spa.

Termales Laureles

Road 142, 5.5 km (3.4 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/4020-1600; www.termaleslaureles.com; 9am-9pm daily; visitors pass $10 pp

If you want to soak with locals, check out the Termales Laureles. On weekends, Arenal-area residents flock to its seven hot springs pools, two cold-water pools, waterslides, and sport facilities for family get-togethers. The complex also houses 130 small electricity-equipped open-air dining shelters, free for guests to use and perfect for large groups. A small restaurant serves fast food on-site, but outside food and nonalcoholic drinks are also allowed, so pack a picnic lunch or dinner to make the most of your visit.

RECREATION

Local Guides and Tours

Desafio Adventure Company

Road 702, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of Road 142; tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com; 7am-9pm daily

Desafio Adventure Company is one of La Fortuna’s most reputable adventure outfitters, organizing fun and exciting—but safe!—escapades with thoroughly trained guides. They are especially good at crafting tours that explore less well-trodden areas, in addition to ones that allow for participation in unique cultural experiences. Its combination tours, which group multiple activities into half- or full-day experiences, can help you make the most of your time in town. One of the most popular combination tours, known as the Arenal Highlights Tour, bundles visits to the Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park, Catarata Río Fortuna, and Volcán Arenal, with an option to also visit one of the town’s hot springs complexes.

Desafio also offers a service called Adventure Connections. These tours depart from La Fortuna and provide onward transportation to a variety of destinations rather than depositing you back in La Fortuna at the end of the day. Adventures in canyoneering, waterfall jumping, white-water rafting, mountain biking, and stand-up paddleboarding, as well as tours to see Río Celeste inside Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio, provide ways of connecting time spent in La Fortuna with visits to San José, Monteverde, and beach towns in Guanacaste. A significant number of Desafio’s tours are Adventure Connections; see the website for a complete list. Adventure Connections tour pricing varies according to activity type, route, and number of participants. In all cases, the company has factored the fee for the transportation service into the cost of the tour.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Zip-Lining

Zip-line tours are common in the Arenal region. When you sift through the mix, stick to tours offered by stand-alone eco-adventure parks, not sold as add-on hotel features.

Arenal Mundo Aventura Ecological Park

Road 702, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of the central church; tel. 506/2479-9762; www.arenalmundoaventura.com; 6am-6pm daily; by guided tour only

One of my favorite zip-line tours is the Big AMA Canopy Tour (8am, 10:30am, and 1pm daily; 3 hours; $80 adults, $61 ages 7-12; min. age 7) provided by the Arenal Mundo Aventura Ecological Park. The 12-cable experience traverses the forest and stuns with views of Volcán Arenal and the Catarata Piño Blanco. I love catching a bird’s-eye view of the Catarata Río Fortuna and joshing with the witty tour guides. If your time is short, opt for the seven-cable AMA Extreme Canopy Tour (8am, 10:30am, 1pm, and 2pm daily; 2.5 hours; $63 adults, $51 ages 7-12; min. age 7). This condensed version of the Big AMA Canopy Tour still showcases volcano and waterfall views.

Ecoglide Arenal Park

Road 142, 3.5 km (2.2 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-7120; www.arenalecoglide.com; 7am-9:30pm daily

The 11-cable canopy tour (8am, 10am, 1pm, and 3pm daily; 2 hours; $56.50 pp; min. age 3), run by the Ecoglide Arenal Park, is a great choice for families with young children because it’s one of the few canopy tours in the area that welcomes participation by young adventurers. In addition, Ecoglide’s zip-line cables hang only a fraction as high off the forest floor as cables hung for more extreme canopy tours in the Arenal region. Extra thrill is provided by the optional Tarzan swing ($28.25 pp), during which you’ll securely fall (or “swing”) from a 40-m-tall (131-ft) platform into a forest clearing.

White-Water Rafting

La Fortuna is a leading locale for white-water rafting tours. Trips down four different rivers scattered around the country leave from and return to La Fortuna daily. A number require a drive of several hours from town.

Tours down the country’s most notorious Class III and IV river, Río Pacuare (a 2.5-hour drive from La Fortuna), are especially popular. As a Class II and III river, Río Reventazón (a 2.5-hour drive from La Fortuna) is the smarter choice if you have young children or are in search of a tamer rafting experience.

Closer to La Fortuna are the Río Balsa (a 40-minute drive from La Fortuna), which has Class II and III rapids only, and Río Sarapiquí (a 1.5-hour drive from La Fortuna), which provides two rafting tour options: a gentle rafting experience on a Class II and III section of the river and a more exciting rafting experience on a Class III and IV section.

Exploradores Outdoors

tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com

Exploradores Outdoors runs the fantastic full-day Pacuare River Rafting Tour (5:30am daily; 12 hours; $99 pp; min. age 12), which includes breakfast, lunch, and a thrilling 30-km (19-mi) ride over 38 rapids in the heart of the Costa Rican rainforest. Exploradores also runs the Reventazón River Rafting Tour (5:30am daily; 12 hours; $99 pp; min. age 6) that covers 10 km (6.2 mi) of the river and traverses nine of its rapids.

Desafio Adventure Company

Road 702, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of Road 142; tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com; 7am-9pm daily

The supreme rafting outfitter on Río Balsa and Río Sarapiquí is Desafio Adventure Company. Its Sarapiquí River Jungle Run (8:30am daily; 8 hours; $105 pp; min. age 13) is the most common river trip booked from La Fortuna. Families with preteens should book the Sarapiquí River Rafting Tour (8:30am and noon daily; 5 hours; $80 adults, $72 ages 8-12; min. age 8) instead. Desafio’s Balsa River Rafting Tour (10am daily; 5 hours; $80 adults, $72 ages 8-12; min. age 8) is best done as part of a combination tour ($134-175 pp), where you select a second activity, such as canyoneering, waterfall jumping, or zip-lining, to create a full-day excursion.

Safari Float Tours

Canoa Aventura

Road 142, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-8200; www.canoa-aventura.com; 7am-10pm daily

On the scenic Río Peñas Blancas (a 30-minute drive from La Fortuna), you can float down a slow-moving river where howler monkeys play in trees overhead and crocodiles sometimes sunbathe on its banks. Canoa Aventura operates a comprehensive safari float tour by raft (8am and 2pm daily; 4-4.5 hours; $65 adults, $39 ages 3-11; min. age 3) that includes round-trip transportation between the river and La Fortuna hotels, a knowledgeable tour guide who details flora and fauna encountered during the river trip, and a visit to a local Costa Rican ranch for a traditional snack and a brief discussion about the important locally grown crops. The laid-back experience is a refreshing contrast to the many high-octane activities in La Fortuna.

Kayaking

Canoa Aventura

Road 142, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-8200; www.canoa-aventura.com; 7am-10pm daily

For a slow-paced river kayaking experience, take the safari float tour by kayak (8am and 2pm daily; 4-4.5 hours; $70 pp; min. age 5) down the tranquil Río Peñas Blancas with Canoa Aventura. Like the operator’s safari float tour, the kayaking experience concludes with a cultural visit to a ranch.

Waterfall Jumping Tours

Desafio Adventure Company

Road 702, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of Road 142; tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com; 7am-9pm daily

Are you intrepid and a bit wild? If so, sign up for waterfall jumping through Desafio Adventure Company; it’s the latest craze to hit La Fortuna. During the Gravity Falls Waterfall Jumping Tour (6:30am and 9:30am daily; 5 hours; $130 pp; min. age 15), professional tour guides teach you how to safely launch yourself off a series of secluded waterfalls and cliffs up to 7.5 m (25 ft) high into refreshing pools tucked away in the forest. If you really want to work up a sweat, challenge yourself to the Extreme Gravity Falls Waterfall Jumping Tour (6:30am daily; 9 hours; $175 pp; min. age 15). It throws white-water rafting on the Class II and III Río Balsa (Balsa River) into the mix to provide the ultimate rainforest workout. Both experiences include a hearty homemade lunch.

Canyoneering

Some of the country’s best canyon descents lurk in the crevices and gullies that surround La Fortuna. Most of the canyoneering tours that explore them involve close contact with waterfalls and dips into swimming holes. Prepare to get wet, and bring a set of dry clothes to change into after the tour.

Pure Trek

200 m (219 yd) east of Road 142, just beyond the Volcano Lodge Hotel & Thermal Experience; tel. 506/2479-1313; www.puretrek.com; 6am-9pm daily

The Canyoning Tour (7am and noon daily, 7am, 9am, and noon daily during busy periods; 4 hours; $105 pp; min. age 5) provided by Pure Trek feels like a rainforest obstacle course. There are four rappel descents (three of which parallel waterfalls), a brief rock ascent, and a rappel and zip-line cable combo called the Monkey Drop. It’s loads of fun to complete, especially for kids. Tour guides prioritize safety throughout.

Desafio Adventure Company

Road 702, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of Road 142; tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com; 7am-9pm daily

The Canyoning in the Lost Canyon Tour (7am, 10am, and 1pm daily; 4-5 hours; $105 pp; min. age 8) is for adults looking to be challenged. This activity is one of the best offered by canyoneering pioneers Desafio Adventure Company. After being shuttled from your La Fortuna hotel to the canyon in a 4WD vehicle nicknamed the Jungle Limo, you’ll rappel down waterfalls, pause for a photo op in a canyon amid a river’s rush, and throw caution to the wind during a secure and exhilarating freefall. The tour ends with a tough 15-minute uphill hike and a well-deserved buffet meal of home-style eats.

Bird-Watching

Arenal Mundo Aventura Ecological Park

Road 702, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of the central church; tel. 506/2479-9762; www.arenalmundoaventura.com; 6am-6pm daily

Nearly every tour operator in town offers guided birding excursions. I like the bird-watching tour (5:30am daily; 2 hours; $61 adults, $46 ages 4-12) at the Arenal Mundo Aventura Ecological Park. The tour explores the park’s private land, where you’re bound to see and hear more birds than if you opted to explore a public area or a more popular hiking trail in the region. Plus, the tour begins before the park opens to the public, so you and your tour guide will have the peaceful trails all to yourselves. Breakfast is included, as is the use of spotting equipment, but you’re welcome to bring your own.

Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park

2.5 km (1.5 mi) north of Road 142, just beyond the Lago Arenal Dam; tel. 506/2479-8282; www.misticopark.com

You can cross bird-watching and hanging bridges off your to-do list with the specialized Birding Guided Tour (6am daily; 2.5 hours; $61 adults, $50 ages 11-18) at the Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges. Thanks to the early start, you’ll see and hear the variety of songbirds that awaken the park, and you’ll gain access to the property’s trails and bridges before most visitors, who generally arrive later in the morning. The park supplies all equipment needed for bird observation free of charge. Reservations are required.

Mountain Biking

Bike Arenal

Road 142 and Avenida 319; tel. 506/2479-9020; www.bikearenal.com; 8am-5pm Mon.-Sat.

One of the country’s leading bike outfitters is based in La Fortuna. Bike Arenal wows with a number of well-thought-out half- and full-day guided bike treks ($82-133) that vary in difficulty, distance, and duration. Most cycle in parts of the region that remain untouched by tourism, including small villages, cattle farms, and vegetable plantations that you’re unlikely to see during participation in other La Fortuna activities.

If you think you can handle it, give the guided Madness Hill to Zarcero Road Cycling Tour (8am daily; 7 hours; $133 pp; min. age 15) a whirl. The paved-highway ride is 88 km (55 mi), has an elevation gain of 2,800 m (9,186 ft), and weaves through the mountains and clouds around San Ramón (the namesake Madness Hill). Prior biking experience is an asset but not required. A safety vehicle is available at all times in case you cannot finish the climb, and lunch is served at the end of the tour to help you recharge. Bike Arenal also offers multiday bike tours ($1,320-2,495) through various destinations around Costa Rica that include accommodations, meals, and additional adventure activities.

Arenal 1968

1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of Road 142, 500 m (0.3 mi) north of the Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal’s main ranger station; tel. 506/4001-1968; www.arenal1968.com; 7:30am-5pm daily, biking trails last entry 3pm; $25 pp

If you would rather bike on your own, head to the private reserve Arenal 1968. The reserve has 13.5 km (8.4 mi) of intermediate-level private forest and river trails for you to maneuver at your own pace. You’ll find single-track and double-track sections, some challenging inclines, and downhill stretches perfect for coasting along the reserve’s circuit, plus you’ll get to see and ride over mounds of lava rocks. You can rent a bike through Bike Arenal. The outfitter includes a helmet and a lock with each bike ($25-55 per day).

Night Tours

Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park

2.5 km (1.5 mi) north of Road 142, just beyond the Lago Arenal Dam; tel. 506/2479-8282; www.misticopark.com

A variety of nocturnal specimens—including amphibians, reptiles, insects, and night-blooming flowers—enliven La Fortuna after dark. Try your luck at seeing them in the wild via the guided Místico Night Walk (6pm daily; 2.5 hours; $61 adults, $50 ages 11-18, $23 age 10; min. age 10). Held at the Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park, the tour explores the same trail system and hanging bridges that day visitors see, albeit alongside a tour guide who will explain how the rainforest changes at night. Reservations are required.

Natura Eco Park

200 m (219 yd) east of Road 142, just beyond the Volcano Lodge Hotel & Thermal Experience; tel. 506/2479-1616; www.naturaecopark.com

For guaranteed sightings, head to the Natura Eco Park and take their night walk (6pm daily; 2 hours; $56 adults, $33 ages 5-11). Although part of the night walk experience involves exploring the park’s outdoor nature trail, it also presents a unique opportunity to visit the park’s terrariums to spy on deadly frog and snake species—creatures awake and active after dark—secured behind glass enclosures. A knowledgeable tour guide identifies unique species and their behaviors as you stroll between enclosures and spot critters in the wild along the nature trail. Reservations are required.

Arenal Oasis Eco Lodge & Wildlife Refuge

2 km (1.2 mi) west of the central church, 1 km (0.6 mi) south on Calle 506; tel. 506/2479-9526; www.arenaloasis.com

If you have a specific interest in seeing frogs in the open forest, don’t miss the guided Frog Watching Night Walk (5:45pm daily; 2 hours; $50 adults, $35 ages 5-11; min. age 5) conducted at the Arenal Oasis Eco Lodge & Wildlife Refuge. The property has carefully crafted ponds and trails that over 28 frog species call home. Led by members of the Costa Rican family that owns the refuge, the evening nature walk progresses at a leisurely pace and is perfect for kids, especially those hoping to see the lime-green red-eyed tree frog, which is regularly spotted. Overnight guests of the lodge ($83 s/d) have access to discounted tour rates.

Swimming Holes

El Salto

Road 702, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of the central church, under the east side of the bridge; free

On hot and humid days, cool off where the locals do, at the swimming hole and rope swing known as El Salto. Most congregate at the spot to sunbathe on boulders and take turns swinging into Río Fortuna. If you find the area too noisy, follow the trail behind the rope swing that descends into the forest; after five minutes, you’ll arrive at a more private space near a shallow stretch of the river perfect for wading.

Parking at El Salto is limited. If you intend to drive, consider signing up for an adventure or nature tour run by Desafio Adventure Company (tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com), a tour outfit headquartered next to El Salto (the headquarters is mapped as Hunters & Gatherers Costa Rica). As a participant of any one of Desafio’s La Fortuna-based tours, you can park in Desafio’s parking lot for free and access El Salto beyond its private entrance after the guided tour finishes and returns to the headquarters.

Río Chollin

Road 142, 11 km (6.8 mi) west of the central church, under the bridge; free

Another popular hangout is Río Chollin, a swimming spot that taps into the same river system that feeds the elite Tabacón Hot Springs. The budget-minded love this place, but it lacks the safety and cleanliness that La Fortuna’s formal hot springs properties provide.

Arenal Shuttle Pass

8am, 10am, 1pm, and 3:20pm daily; $20 pp, cash only

La Choza Inn Hostel (Avenida 331, 300 m/328 yd west of the post office; tel. 506/2479-9361; www.lachozainnhostel.com) runs a shared shuttle service that departs from the hostel in downtown La Fortuna and loops around town, offering pickups and drop-offs at both swimming holes a few times each day. You don’t have to be a guest of the hostel to purchase the Arenal Shuttle Pass. A bracelet permits you to ride the shuttle as often as you wish during your time in the Arenal region.

SHOPPING

Souvenir shops, especially in La Fortuna’s downtown core, are abundant. Shop around and compare costs. Many of the same items are for sale at a variety of stores, at different prices.

Artesanía Costa Rica

Road 142, 2.4 km (1.5 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-9597; 7am-10pm daily

In front of the hotel La Pradera Del Arenal, the giant souvenir store Artesanía Costa Rica is where you’ll find the most impressive collection of souvenirs in the area. The well-organized place resembles a department store; it has nearly every type of souvenir you can purchase in Costa Rica—clothing, art, trinkets, furniture, coffee, and alcohol—hung neatly on walls and laid out on rows of tables. Some items are kitschy, but others, like the rare bottles of coffee wine, are a great find. Don’t miss this spot if you have several people to buy for and you want to complete the task in one quick outing.

Original Grand Gallery

Road 142, 2 km (1.2 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-8037; 9am-8pm daily

For unique wood pieces, I head to two galleries on the outskirts of town, where woodworkers craft on-site. The Original Grand Gallery will catch your eye with its giant polished-wood sculptures at the entrance. Cutting boards, bowls, figurines, and other items fill tables inside, and you can see works in progress at the back of the shop.

Galería Aguas Verdes

Road 142, 2 km (1.2 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-9805; 9am-9pm daily

Next to the Original Grand Gallery is the small studio Galería Aguas Verdes, where you can buy affordable paintings directly from the humble resident artist who paints at a small desk in front of the shop.

Wood & Art Gallery

1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of the central church, 2 km (1.2 mi) west on Road 301; tel. 506/8610-8139; 9am-5pm daily

The Wood & Art Gallery is smaller in size but offers rare pieces carved out of fallen wood and branch remnants. I have yet to find artwork like it anywhere else in Costa Rica.

Galería Estudio

Avenida 331, north side of the central church; tel. 506/2479-7253; 9am-8pm daily

In downtown La Fortuna, Galería Estudio is a good place to shop for paintings, pottery, and jewelry.

FOOD

Food and Farm Tours

North Fields Café

Calle 506, 700 m (766 yd) south of Super Cristian 4; tel. 506/2479-7195; www.northfieldscr.com; 8am-3pm daily

The North Fields Café will lure you into their small establishment with the rich aroma of roasted coffee beans. During a guided interactive coffee tour (8am, 10am, 12:30pm, 2pm, and 3pm daily; 2 hours; $43 adults, $33 ages 6-12), you’ll take an easy walk around the café’s property to see coffee plants, try your hand at picking and grinding coffee beans, and drink a cup of the café’s finest brew. The tour covers various stages of coffee production, and taste-testing cacao and sugarcane are also part of the experience.

Rainforest Chocolate Tour

Road 301, 1 km (0.6 mi) west of Road 702; tel. 506/2479-0090; www.rainforestchocolatetour.com; 8am, 10am, 1pm, and 3pm daily; 1.5 hours; $30 adults, $21 ages 6-12

The best chocolate-centered activity in La Fortuna is the Rainforest Chocolate Tour. This educational class, taught at a cacao farm, covers the historical and modern-day processing of cacao in Costa Rica. Knowledgeable, passionate tour guides make for a fun experience. Pick up a bar (or 10) at the on-site shop to take home. I recommend the organic 100 percent cacao bar. It is bitter, but as you’ll learn during the tour, it’s the best for you.

Costa Rican

Soda La Palma

Road 142, 9.5 km (5.9 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/8984-5603; 6:30am-5pm daily; $6.50-9

If you intend to be active while visiting La Fortuna, you’ll spend a lot of time on the western outskirts of town, where many tours and activities take place. A great place to grab lunch in that area, saving you a trip into La Fortuna just to eat, is Soda La Palma. This breezy roadside diner with a volcano view serves mostly Costa Rican food, but it also plates quesadillas, chicken fingers, loaded nachos, and a stacked club sandwich, making it a solid choice for young eaters or picky eaters. Soda La Palma checks off other boxes too; it’s clean, it serves fresh food, and it opens early. Eat breakfast here if your accommodation doesn’t provide it.

S Soda Víquez

Calle 468, 60 m (197 ft) south of Road 142; tel. 506/2479-8772; 8am-10pm daily; $7-10

To sample a variety of Costa Rican foods in the La Fortuna center, don’t miss the small and homey Soda Víquez. The restaurant is a favorite among locals for its flavorful food and fair prices. In addition to ordering entrées from the menu, you can visit the small buffet at the back of the restaurant. The buffet features side dishes like ensalada rusa (Russian salad; a combination of beets, potatoes, eggs, and mayonnaise), yuca frita (fried cassava; similar in taste and appearance to thick french fries), and other preparations you may never have tried before. If a number of these catch your eye, skip the menu and ask the waitstaff for a custom plate made up entirely of side dishes.

La Típica

Road 142, 2.1 km (1.3 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/6059-7396; 10am-10pm daily; $8-14

If you’re on the hunt for the town’s best casados, look to La Típica, just outside the downtown core. La Típica’s casado is beyond compare; it swaps traditional black beans for more flavorful red beans and comes with savory picadillo (diced mixed vegetables) and a unique gallo con papaya verde (tortilla with unripe papaya). The authentic, tasty dish makes up for the informal restaurant’s lackluster decor, not to mention the puffs of smoke that balloon out of the grill and float through the open-air dining space.

International

Anch’io Pizzeria e Ristorante

Road 142, 350 m (0.2 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-7024; noon-3pm and 5pm-10pm Wed.-Mon.; $11.50-20

For thin-crust and wood-fired pizza, nowhere beats Anch’io Pizzeria e Ristorante. The small, open-air Italian restaurant soothes with soft lighting and a pleasant ambience ideal for a date night, not to mention the decadent desserts that include tiramisu and panna cotta.

Don Rufino Restaurante

Road 142 and Calle 466; tel. 506/2479-9997; http://donrufino.com; 11:30am-9:30pm daily; $29-39

The classiest restaurant in downtown La Fortuna is Don Rufino Restaurante, an American steak house. It is a bit pretentious but deserves its accolades, especially with respect to food presentation and service. Choose from above-average meat, seafood, pasta, and sandwich offerings that pay attention to detail. Reservations are advised.

Vegetarian and Vegan

S The Green Spoon

Road 702, 50 m (164 ft) south of Road 142; tel. 506/8851-2442; noon-9pm daily; $10-19.50

Helping keep everyone who is hungry happy is The Green Spoon, which has menus for vegans, vegetarians, and meat-eaters. Vegetarian and vegan options span pastas, burgers, and other mains, but most unique is the restaurant’s inventive vegan take on the beloved dish chifrijo—a mixed bowl of rice, beans, and traditionally fried pork rinds, among other fixings—which substitutes the pork rinds with quinoa croquettes. Enjoy your order casually at a table on the covered front terrace; it’s a good spot for people-watching in downtown La Fortuna.

Orgánico Fortuna

Calle 466, immediately south of Banco San José; tel. 506/2572-2115; www.organicofortuna.com; 9am-9pm daily; $11.50-20

Orgánico Fortuna is an organic market and restaurant in one. Its style is hippie-ish; its food is healthy; and the variety of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options (all easily identifiable on the menu) will make you happy. Salads, sandwiches, breads, smoothies, and cups of organic coffee are abundant, as are signs and slogans that preach peace and love. If you have a craving for healthy food, satisfy it in the eatery’s small but cozy space.

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

La Fortuna Pub

Road 142, 350 m (0.2 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/8328-8080; www.lafortunapub.com; noon-11:30pm Mon.-Fri., noon-midnight Sat., noon-11pm Sun.

Slightly removed from the center of La Fortuna, which can get loud and busy in the evening, is the La Fortuna Pub. This is my favorite place to relax away from crowds. The small, laid-back pub has an extensive craft beer collection, occasional live music, and board games.

Lava Lounge Bar ’n’ Grill

Road 142, 25 m (82 ft) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-7365; 7am-10pm daily

On the main drag, the Lava Lounge Bar ’n’ Grill glows in the evening with lanterns and colorful lights. Its reggae-inspired vibe and picnic table seating make it the town’s coolest hangout joint for enjoying tropical cocktails, wine, and artisanal beer.

Spectacolar Cantina

250 m (273 yd) west of the central church; tel. 506/8569-7676; 6am-10pm daily

One block west of Lava Lounge, you can learn how to accurately build a variety of cocktails, especially those made with rum or tequila, during the fun and informative Cocktail Class (4pm daily; 2 hours; $91 pp; min. age 18) held at the Mexican restaurant Spectacolar Cantina. Food and alcoholic drinks are included in the cost of the class; transportation to your hotel afterward can be arranged for an extra fee.

Hunters & Gatherers Costa Rica

Road 702, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of Road 142; www.huntersandgathererscostarica.com [URL inactive]

To learn how to cook and dance like a Costa Rican, sign up for the Cooking and Salsa Dance Lesson Combo (5pm daily; 3.5-4 hours; $70 adults, $63 ages 6-12; min. age 6). First, you’ll prepare a traditional dinner alongside a local chef. Then, after enjoying your culinary efforts, you’ll learn how to dance merengue, cumbia, and salsa, step by step. Coordinated through Desafio Adventure Company (tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com), the lesson takes place at Hunters & Gatherers Costa Rica, Desafio’s private buffet restaurant. Lone dancers are welcome.

ACCOMMODATIONS

There are over 100 hotels and hostels to choose from in the La Fortuna region, and countless other apartment and vacation home rentals. Many come with an above-average price tag, thanks to perks like on-site hot springs and volcano views, but still manage to sell out months in advance for travel during the high season, mid-December-April.

The least expensive accommodations, which include hostels, economy hotels, and some standard hotels, are in downtown La Fortuna. Higher-quality hotels and resorts are scattered outside town, typically 10-20 minutes west of La Fortuna by car, close to Volcán Arenal.

Many of the hot springs attractions in the vicinity of La Fortuna also have on-site accommodations. For more information on these attractions, see the Hot Springs section on click here.

Downtown La Fortuna

Secreto La Fortuna

Calle 466, 300 m (328 yd) north of the gas station; tel. 506/2479-7047; www.hotelsecretolafortuna.com; $112 s/d

The economical motel-style Secreto La Fortuna, at the end of a side road three blocks north of La Fortuna’s main street, is within walking distance of the town’s restaurants and shops but also far enough removed from them to be quiet. The adequate rooms, which sleep 1-4 in king and queen beds, are beautified by wall-to-wall glass windows and sliding doors that maximize views of the hotel’s gardens and pool area; several rooms also have views of Volcán Arenal.

Noah’s Forest

off Avenida 351, 7 km (4.3 mi) northeast of the central church; tel. 506/2479-8422; www.tifakara.com/noahsforest; $520 s/d

Blissful, romantic, luxurious stays near downtown La Fortuna are hard to come by, but the singular experience is provided by Noah’s Forest. This hotel, comprised of 19 immaculate, modern, air-conditioned bungalows connected by paths, is hidden in a forest and feels far-flung despite being only a five-minute drive from town. Most bungalows sleep 1-3 people, but some can accommodate five guests. All have private bathrooms with dual rainforest showerheads and a terrace with comfortable seating; some terraces also have a hot tub.

Beyond Downtown La Fortuna

S La Pradera Del Arenal

Road 142, 2.4 km (1.5 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-9597; www.lapraderadelarenal.com; $140 s/d

The best-value hotel in the region is La Pradera Del Arenal. Opt for one of the 25 quaint and quiet rooms or try one of the eight bungalows; both sleep 1-4 and offer standard amenities, a volcano view, and a hearty breakfast for a fair price. Well-manicured shrubs and flowers decorate the clean property, which has a pool, a hot tub, and a giant souvenir store that shouldn’t be missed. High-quality stays around Arenal aren’t usually this cheap.

Finca Luna Nueva Sustainable Rainforest Ecolodge

2.3 km (1.4 mi) west of Road 702, 16.5 km (10.2 mi) south of Road 142; tel. 506/8808-2110; www.fincalunanuevalodge.com; casita $250 s/d, bungalow $280 s/d

To stay off the beaten path in the La Fortuna area, book a night at the Finca Luna Nueva Sustainable Rainforest Ecolodge, a half-hour drive south of town. The inspiring lodge offers wellness activities and workshops ranging from creative writing to yoga, meditation, and Reiki, and has a birding station, a bee project, and a “botanical pharmacy” where you can learn fascinating things about powerful medicinal plants. Most people who come stay in one of the ecolodge’s nine casitas and bungalows; however, the property also has two rental homes (each sleeps 12 people), an odd-looking “earthbag” house constructed with clay (sleeps 1-3 people), and a spacious “dome suite” (sleeps 1-2 people) made from aircrete, an ecological building product that swaps concrete for soap suds. There’s a lot to marvel at!

Volcano Lodge Hotel & Thermal Experience

Road 142, 7 km (4.3 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-2800; www.volcanolodge.com; $288 s/d

You can stretch your dollar by staying at the Volcano Lodge Hotel & Thermal Experience, which provides a surprising number of above-average experiences at its mid-range price point. Swim in lagoon-style hot springs edged by beautiful tropical foliage, roam nature trails that are great for bird-watching, dine on delicious and well-presented Costa Rican dishes at the on-site restaurant, enjoy a cocktail in the poolside lounge, and take in a front-row view of Volcán Arenal. All 64 rooms, spread over several one-story motel-style buildings, come simply outfitted with one king or two double beds. Upgraded rooms have their own private hot springs pool.

S Arenal Springs Resort & Spa

7 km (4.3 mi) west of the central church, 1 km (0.6 mi) east off Road 142 after the Volcano Lodge Hotel & Thermal Experience; tel. 506/2479-1212; www.hotelarenalspring.com; $340 s/d

I’m partial to the Arenal Springs Resort & Spa with its aura of sophistication and friendly accommodating staff. People love this vast resort, which has 90 rooms within 45 bungalow-style duplexes, especially for its adjoining rooms (perfect for families), two upscale restaurants, and property-wide volcano views. The resort’s best features include a yoga deck, a vegetable garden, a spa, and a swim-up sushi bar as well as hot springs and bird-watching gardens (pick up a free bird booklet at reception). There are even rooms designed for asthma and seasonal allergy sufferers.

S Tabacón

Road 142, 11 km (6.8 mi) west of the central church; tel. 506/2479-2000; www.tabacon.com; $473 s/d

Following years of renovations, Tabacón has a fresh and luxurious contemporary look and a feel that’s every bit as inviting as its hot springs. At the 103-room resort, you’ll be treated to ever-attentive staff, valet parking, nightly turndown service, and a bountiful breakfast bar full of both decadent and health-conscious selections. A full-day pass to Tabacón’s eponymous hot springs is also included; perks for hotel guests include early-morning access (8am-10am) and entry to the Shangri-La Gardens, an exclusive adults-only area that has additional pools and private cabanas. Resort rooms (for 1-4 people) and suites (for 1-6) feature a mix of canopy beds, plush mattresses, garden or volcano views, and jetted tubs; each one has a palatial shower that rejuvenates bathers with natural hot springs water.

S Nayara Springs

7 km (4.3 mi) west of the central church, 1 km (0.6 mi) east off Road 142 after the Volcano Lodge Hotel & Thermal Experience; tel. 506/2479-1600; www.nayarasprings.com; $1,225 s/d

Nayara Springs is one of La Fortuna’s few adults-only accommodations. It comprises 35 individual luxury villas (each sleeps 1-3) with exquisite furnishings, including a canopy bed, a patio with a daybed, and a private pool fed with mineral water. Enclosed within a serene rainforest-wrapped property further beautified by elegant tropical gardens, the lavish villas feel light-years away from La Fortuna, a mere 10-minute drive from town. Stay here if you’re looking for romance, relaxation, and ridiculously good food. The hotel has five top-notch restaurants and bars. Drink coffee at Mi Cafecito, experience a wine-pairing dinner at the Nostalgia Wine & Tapas Bar, and don’t miss the boldly decorated Amor Loco for fine dining.

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

La Fortuna does not have a hospital, but two clinics, Centro Medico Sanar La Fortuna (Avenida 331 and Calle 464; tel. 506/2479-9420; 7am-midnight Mon.-Sat., 8am-11pm Sun.) and Ebais La Fortuna (Avenida 333 and Calle 466; tel. 506/2479-8565; 7am-3pm Mon.-Fri.), can attend to medical issues. Centro Medico Sanar La Fortuna tends to be less busy. A few pharmacies are scattered throughout downtown along the main drag; most are open 9am-9pm daily.

The town has a police station (Avenida 331 and Calle 460A; tel. 506/2479-9689; 24 hours daily) and a post office (Avenida 331, across from the central church; tel. 506/2479-8070; 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-noon Sat.). There are a number of banks in town. The easiest to spot is Banco Nacional (Avenida 331 and Calle 468; tel. 506/2479-9022; www.bncr.fi.cr; 8:30am-3:45pm Mon.-Fri., 8:30am-11:30am Sat.). It has an ATM (5am-11pm daily).

The most well-stocked grocery stores are Super Cristian 2 (Road 142 and Calle 468) and Megasuper (100 Centro Comercial Adifort), beside the regional bus station. There’s a gas station on the corner of Road 142 and Calle 466.

Many hotels in the area offer laundry services to guests. Otherwise, you can have your clothes washed at Lavandería Burbujas (Calle 466, 75 m/246 ft south of Road 142; tel. 506/2479-7115; 8am-4pm daily).

GETTING THERE

If you’re heading to La Fortuna by way of San José, the Central Valley and Highlands, or the Caribbean, you will enter the town from either the east or the south. If you arrive via Guanacaste, access is from the west.

Air

The Aeropuerto Arenal (FON) is 8 km (5 mi) east of downtown La Fortuna, roughly a 10-minute drive. SANSA Airlines (tel. 506/2290-4100; www.flysansa.com) offers flights to La Fortuna from San José and Liberia.

There’s no taxi stand at the airport. Call the taxi dispatch line Central de Taxis La Fortuna (tel. 506/2479-9605; 6am-10pm daily) to request a taxi to pick you up from the airport to take you wherever you need to go. Expect to pay $15 to downtown La Fortuna, more to reach hotels on the outskirts of town.

Boat

If you plan to visit La Fortuna from the Monteverde vicinity, boat crossings over Lago Arenal save ground transportation time. The entire trip—which consists of ground transportation from Santa Elena (Monteverde) to the lake, a boat ride across the lake, and ground transportation on to La Fortuna—is known as the van-boat-van service (formerly called the jeep-boat-jeep service, sometimes referred to as the taxi-boat-taxi service, $34-49 pp) and takes approximately 3.5 hours to complete. Several companies provide the service, typically twice daily, once in the morning (8am-8:30am) and again in the afternoon (2am-2:30pm). Those with the best reputations include Ride Costa Rica (Avenida 319A, 200 m/219 yd northeast of Road 702; tel. 506/2469-2020; www.ridecr.com) and Desafio Adventure Company (Road 702, 1.5 km/0.9 mi south of Road 142; tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com; 7am-9pm daily).

Car

Most people visit La Fortuna directly from San José. The most popular version of this drive is 130 km (81 mi) and takes three hours via Highway 1 and Road 702. Another option is 140 km (87 mi) and takes 3.5 hours via Highway 1 and Road 141.

Getting to La Fortuna from Liberia requires a 135-km (84-mi), 2.5-hour drive via Highway 1 and Road 142. From Monteverde, it’s a 115-km (71 mi), 3.5-hour drive via Roads 606, 145, and 142.

The roads that lead to La Fortuna are generally paved, well maintained, and safely maneuvered by the average driver. Travel to La Fortuna from the west (along Road 142, between Tilarán and the Lago Arenal Dam) is curvy in many places but primarily flat. South of La Fortuna is rather mountainous, especially Road 702 between San Ramón and Bajo Rodríguez, and Road 141 between Ciudad Quesada and Santa Clara. Each of these routes is easily passable with slow and cautious driving; aim to make the trip early in the day when fog cover is less of an issue. Access to La Fortuna from the east (via Highway 4 from Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí) offers the fewest elevation changes and twists.

Bus

La Fortuna’s regional bus station is on the corner of Calle 470 and Avenida 325. You can catch a public bus to La Fortuna from San José, San Ramón, Ciudad Quesada, Tilarán, or El Castillo.

Organized Tour

Desafio Adventure Company (tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com) and Exploradores Outdoors (tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com) offer post-tour onward transportation to La Fortuna from various cities around the country. A variety of tours, including white-water rafting tours, safari float tours, and multiday Tortuguero expeditions, can be arranged to include pickups at hotels in San José, Turrialba, Monteverde, Tortuguero, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, or beach towns on the northern Pacific coast, and drop-offs at hotels in La Fortuna.

Private Transfer Service

Most La Fortuna tour operators (and nearly all transportation service providers in the country) can get you to La Fortuna from any destination by way of a private transfer service. Desafio Adventure Company (tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com) and Ride Costa Rica (tel. 506/2469-2020; www.ridecr.com) offer free onboard Wi-Fi. Prices average $200 from San José.

Shared Shuttle Service

Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com) and Ride Costa Rica (tel. 506/2469-2020; www.ridecr.com) can shuttle you to La Fortuna from many popular tourist towns. Morning and afternoon departures are available from most destinations daily. From San José, the one-way fare to La Fortuna costs roughly $50 pp.

GETTING AROUND

Car

Driving around downtown La Fortuna is generally easy. In the middle of town, Road 142 becomes a one-way street (traffic flows west) between Road 702 and Calle 464. Parking is available but limited; there are usually free spaces along the north side of the central church across the street from the post office.

Official taxis line up along Calle 468, between Road 142 and Avenida 331, on the east side of the central park; unlicensed drivers station themselves along the park’s south side.

Bicycle

Bike Arenal (Road 142 and Avenida 319; tel. 506/2479-9020; www.bikearenal.com; 8am-5pm Mon.-Sat.) offers daylong bike rentals starting at $25. High-quality road bikes will run $55. All bike rentals include a helmet and a lock.

Shared Shuttle Service

La Choza Inn Hostel (Avenida 331, 300 m/328 yd west of the post office; tel. 506/2479-9361; www.lachozainnhostel.com) operates the Arenal Shuttle Pass ($20 pp, cash only), which includes unlimited transportation on a preset pickup and drop-off schedule between their property in downtown La Fortuna and a number of noteworthy sights around town. With the pass, you can visit El Salto, Catarata Río Fortuna, Río Chollin, El Silencio Mirador y Senderos, Arenal 1968, Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal, and Lago Arenal as many times as you like over the course of your stay in La Fortuna. The shuttle service departs from the hostel in downtown La Fortuna (8am, 10am, 1pm, and 3:20pm daily), but you can also get picked up at any one of the attractions visited along the circuit.

PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN ARENAL

Arenal Volcano National Park; main ranger station 2 km (1.2 mi) south of Road 142; tel. 506/2200-4192; www.sinac.go.cr; 8am-4pm daily, last entry 2:30pm; $15 adults, $5 ages 2-12

Much of the land that fills the space between La Fortuna and the Lago Arenal Dam is protected, either by the government or by private parties. Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal, home to the conical and picturesque Volcán Arenal and its dormant neighbor Cerro Chato, occupies the bulk of it.

The park’s main ranger station marks its most popular entrance and provides access to the Volcán Arenal Sector. Nearly every tour operator in La Fortuna runs daily guided tours on the trails within this sector, typically once in the early morning and again in the early afternoon. Coupling a volcano tour with a visit to one of La Fortuna’s famed hot springs is common.

A second, less popular area of the park is the Arenal Peninsula Sector (2 km/1.2 mi northwest of the main ranger station; 8am-4pm daily, last entry 2:30pm). A bumpy road (4WD recommended but not required) connects the peninsula sector’s entrance to the main ranger station. You’re welcome to explore either area without a guide. Self-guided visits do not require reservations.

Volcán Arenal

Visits to La Fortuna are incomplete without a lesson in the sad history that haunts Volcán Arenal. After the volcano was dormant for hundreds of years, an abrupt and devastating eruption in 1968 killed 87 people and left many others displaced. Following this catastrophic event that pummeled the volcano’s west side with piping hot boulders and swallowed three communities whole, the volcano remained active for over 40 years. Frequent smoke clouds and lava-laced fireworks displays astonished survivors and residents of La Fortuna, who had escaped the eruption’s wrath. In 2010, the volcano grew quiet, and today only the occasional gas emissions can be seen.

Today, tours of the park focus on the area’s history, flora, and fauna. Hiking trails around the volcano’s base provide an up-close look at lava field striations on the ashy west side and opportunities to climb over the giant lava rocks that shot out of the belly of the beast. Ascents of the volcano, including hikes to the crater, are not permitted.

If you’d rather not explore the forest on foot, you can drive through a section of the park in a rental car. An unnamed, pressed-gravel vehicular trail (1.5 km/0.9 mi one-way; 5 minutes) provides an easy drive through dense brush, connecting the ranger station to a traffic circle on the east side of the park. At the traffic circle, amid a forest clearing, you’ll find a parking lot and a covered shelter with an unobstructed and up-close view of Volcán Arenal.

Hiking

Sendero Las Coladas

Las Coladas Trail; 2 km (1.2 mi) one-way; 30 minutes; easy

The flat Sendero Las Coladas is the Volcán Arenal Sector’s principal route. It follows a straight line from the parking lot to the back of the park, where you can see and stand atop lava rocks at vast Mirador Colada (Colada Lookout), with a prime view of Volcán Arenal that’s reachable by a brief but steep climb. The lookout point is a deviation from the principal trail and can be skipped.

Sendero El Ceibo

El Ceibo Trail; 2 km (1.2 mi) one-way; 30 minutes; easy

From Las Coladas, you can take the Sendero El Ceibo for an easy add-on. This trail forms a half-circle that connects at two points along Las Coladas. Its main draw is the 30-m-tall (98-ft), 400-year-old ceiba tree encountered along the way and its jungle gym of giant roots.

Sendero Los Miradores

Los Miradores Trail; 1.2 km (1.2 mi) one-way; 20 minutes; easy

The Arenal Peninsula Sector’s main trail, the accessible Sendero Los Miradores, is nearly a direct route southwest through the park. It’s paved from start to finish; however, the trail has several inclines and declines. Of the park’s various nature trails across its two sectors, this is the best trail for bird-watching. It also offers a view of Volcán Arenal from a 12-m (39-ft) observation platform and a view of tranquil Lago Arenal from the peninsula’s tip.

Sendero Tororoi

Tororoi Trail; 600 m (656 yd) one-way; 10 minutes; moderate

The Sendero Tororoi connects with Sendero Los Miradores in two places. It’s a brief route that provides an alternative to backtracking all of Sendero Los Miradores on exiting the park.

Getting There

The drive from downtown La Fortuna to the entrance to the Volcán Arenal Sector is 17 km (10.6 mi) and takes 20-25 minutes. Take the paved road known as “the road to El Castillo” off Road 142 (15 km/9.3 mi west of La Fortuna center) to the main ranger station. A 4WD vehicle is not required. The turnoff is well marked with signs for the park as well as signs to the Arenal Observatory Lodge, Rancho Margot, and Sky Adventures. There’s a large parking lot 500 m (0.3 mi) beyond the entrance.

Hiking Around Volcán Arenal

In addition to the trails within Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal, other trails worthy of a visit weave around the volcano’s base. Tour them with a guide or on your own. Note that if you have reserved an Arenal Volcano Tour through any operator or agency in the country, a walk inside the park is not guaranteed unless confirmed. Here are some of the trails you might find yourself on:

ARENAL 1968

road to El Castillo; tel. 506/4001-1968; www.arenal1968.com; 7:30am-5pm daily, hiking trails last entry 4pm; $25 pp

At the private reserve Arenal 1968, you’ll find the most breathtaking and unobstructed volcano views. The reserve, also called Sendero 1968 (1968 Trail), offers two overlapping loops, the Sendero Bosque 1968 (1968 Forest Trail; 5-km/3.1-mi loop; 2.5 hours; moderate-difficult) and the Sendero Colada 1968 (1968 Lava Flow Trail; 4-km/2.5-mi loop; 1.5-2 hours; moderate). Both trails provide an opportunity to hike around mounds of volcanic rocks.

Getting There

The drive from downtown La Fortuna to Arenal 1968 is 16 km (9.9 mi) and takes 20-25 minutes. After about 15 km (9.3 mi) on Road 142, turn south onto the paved side road known as “the road to El Castillo.” A 4WD vehicle is not required. The turnoff is well marked with signs for Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal, the Arenal Observatory Lodge, Rancho Margot, and Sky Adventures. If you reach the main ranger station for Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal, you’ve gone roughly 1 km (0.6 mi) too far.

EL SILENCIO MIRADOR Y SENDEROS

Road 142, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) west of Tabacón; tel. 506/8823-9900; www.miradorelsilencio.com; 8am-5pm daily; $10 pp over age 6

Six trails snake throughout the private reserve known as El Silencio Mirador y Senderos. The Sendero Los Saínos (Los Saínos Trail; 1.5 km/0.9 mi one-way; 30-45 minutes; moderate) is aptly named: The first saíno (peccary) I saw in Costa Rica was along this route. Most trails lead through forested areas to the Mirador Volcán Arenal (Volcán Arenal Lookout). This lookout spot can be accessed on foot or by car.

Getting There

The drive from downtown La Fortuna to El Silencio Mirador y Senderos is 13 km (8.1 mi) and takes 15-20 minutes. The entrance to the reserve is on the south side of Road 142, roughly 2 km (1.2 mi) after Tabacón. A 4WD vehicle is not required.

You can hire a taxi ($35 one-way) to take you to the park; staff at the ranger station can call a taxi to the park when you’re ready to leave. Another option is to purchase the Arenal Shuttle Pass ($20 pp, cash only) provided by La Choza Inn Hostel (Avenida 331, 300 m/328 yd west of the post office; tel. 506/2479-9361; www.lachozainnhostel.com). The main ranger station is a pickup and drop-off point on the shuttle’s circuit, which is traveled multiple times each day.

To get to the Arenal Peninsula Sector from downtown La Fortuna, drive to the Volcán Arenal Sector and turn right on the unnamed road 50 m (164 ft) beyond the main ranger station. Continue on this road for 2 km (1.2 mi) to reach the entrance. Alternatively, to access the sector from the west via destinations around Lago Arenal, take the unnamed road to your right immediately after you cross the bridge at the Lago Arenal Dam. Continue on this road for 2 km (1.2 mi) to reach the entrance. Parking along the side of the road in front of the entrance is permitted.

Lago Arenal and Vicinity

West of La Fortuna, a handful of small towns—El Castillo, Nuevo Arenal, and Tilarán—are scattered around the 85-sq-km (33-sq-mi) Lago Arenal, a lake that is nearly 30 km (19 mi) long from west to east. In all three towns, you’ll find privacy, peace, and a respite from tourist traps. Many expats live here, including retirees who have settled in the region. Gentle breezes off the lake, distant mountain and volcano views, and an aura of calm make this area a good place to escape the frenetic adventure destinations nearby.

EL CASTILLO

A dozen kilometers south of the Lago Arenal Dam is the small, quiet community of El Castillo. Although its attractions, accommodations, and restaurants are often advertised as being part of La Fortuna, El Castillo is a half-hour commute from the town.

Zip-Lining

S Arenal Sky Adventures Park

off Road 142, 7 km (4.3 mi) south on the road to El Castillo; tel. 506/2479-4100; www.skyadventures.travel; 7am-9pm daily; price varies by activity

The most popular tourist attraction in the area, the Arenal Sky Adventures Park draws visitors from downtown La Fortuna and beyond. It is one of the region’s largest and most modern theme parks, offering a plethora of recreational activities. Large numbers of people visit the park each day, yet tours run like clockwork and the staff are friendly.

The most popular park offerings, known as the classics are: the Sky Walk hanging bridges tour (multiple times 8am-2pm daily; 3 hours; $44 adults, $31 under age 13, self-guided tour $34 adults, $24 ages 6-12); Sky Tram aerial tram ride (multiple times 8am-3pm daily; 1 hour; $49 adults, $33 under age 13); and Sky Trek canopy tour (multiple times 8am-3pm daily; 2-2.5 hours; $89 adults, $61 ages 5-12; min. age 5)—one of the few zip-line tours in Costa Rica that allows participants to brake with metal handlebars as opposed to gripping the cables by hand using a thick leather glove. If you opt for the three-activity combo tour (8am, 9am, 10:30am, and 11:30am daily; 5 hours; $114 adults, $81 ages 5-12; min. age 5), you’ll glide amid the rainforest on a tram ride, zip back and forth above it during your canopy tour, and explore it from within while traversing four hanging bridges, all in a day’s work.

The Sky Trek canopy tour can be experienced in a wheelchair. With prior notice and most often during the low season, when the park is void of crowds, Sky Adventures can provide wheelchair-friendly zip-lining tours (8am daily). Also wheelchair-accessible is the Sky Tram, which you’ll ride to the top of the rainforest to start your zip-lining journey.

On some dates during peak season, the park adds a $10 surcharge. If you drive to the park, you’ll find ample free parking out front. Alternately, Sky Adventures can provide round-trip transportation ($19 pp) between the park and La Fortuna hotels.

Kayaking and Stand-Up Paddleboarding

Desafio Adventure Company

Road 702, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of Road 142; tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com; 7am-9pm daily

You can paddle a section of the large, sometimes choppy, open-water Lago Arenal with the La Fortuna-based tour operator Desafio Adventure Company from their outpost at the lake’s edge near the community of El Castillo. Tours are offered by kayak (7:30am and 1:30pm daily; 5 hours; $80 pp; min. age 6) or by stand-up paddleboard (7:30am and 1:30pm daily; 3 hours; $80 pp; min. age 8) and can include transportation from La Fortuna hotels if needed.

Food and Accommodations

La Ventanita Café

500 m (0.3 mi) south of the El Castillo school; tel. 506/8787-5706; 11am-9pm Wed.-Mon.; $4-8

El Castillo has only a few restaurants, but nearly all of them offer fantastic food and even better prices. One of my favorites is the modest La Ventanita Café, which serves wraps, nachos, quesadillas, and burritos to patrons relaxing on its covered patio. Bring your camera and prepare to be wowed; the restaurant features a sweeping view of Volcán Arenal and Lago Arenal from its hilltop location.

Soda La Mesa de Mamá

across from the El Castillo school; tel. 506/2479-1954; 8am-8:30pm daily; $7-11

For traditional Costa Rican fare, head to Soda La Mesa de Mamá. I don’t dare go anywhere else if I want the best homemade casado (a traditional dish that marries rice and beans on a plate, accompanied by a variety of side dishes) for lunch or dinner, or a tasty serving of gallo pinto (a traditional rice and bean blend) for breakfast.

Essence Arenal

950 m (0.6 mi) south of the El Castillo school; tel. 506/2479-1131; www.essencearenal.com; $87 s/d

You would never guess the budget-friendly Essence Arenal provides hiking trails, a permaculture farm, a vegetarian restaurant, a yoga studio, a temazcal (sweat lodge), and volcanic mud-wrap spa treatments. Some rooms have shared baths.

S Arenal Observatory Lodge

off Road 142, 8.5 km (5.3 mi) south on the road to El Castillo; tel. 506/2290-7011; www.arenalobservatorylodge.com; $205 s/d

Stays at the Arenal Observatory Lodge are an unmatchable experience. The property has 48 spacious and clean rooms, all without TVs so you can hear the natural soundtrack of the nearby national park. The quiet, remote lodge offers unobstructed views of Volcán Arenal, a volcano museum with a live seismometer, and a 28-m (92-ft) observation tower (known as The Nest) that provides a 360-degree view of the area’s rainforest and lake. Coatimundis, oropendolas, and other wildlife inhabit the 865-acre property, which doubles as a nature reserve and has observation decks and hiking trails of varying difficulties. Don’t miss the Catarata Danta (Danta Waterfall), reached via the moderate hike along the Sendero Catarata (Catarata Trail). Nonguests can visit the property with a day pass (5:30am-5pm daily; $18).

S Rancho Margot

4.5 km (2.8 mi) southwest of the El Castillo school; tel. 506/8302-7318; www.ranchomargot.com; bunkhouse room $110 s, $190 d, bungalow $200 s, $400 d

If you want to go off the grid, escape to Rancho Margot. The sustainable ranch, adorned with living roofs and furniture made from fallen wood, recycles everything imaginable: Who knew cooking oil could be reused as detergent and soap? As a guest in one of the property’s 19 bungalows (sleep up to 5), you’ll swim in a pool built around a tree trunk, practice yoga twice a day, fish for guapote (rainbow bass), milk a cow, tour on-site trails, and enjoy three included daily meals prepared with ingredients grown at the ranch. More economical lodging is supplied by the bunkhouse, which has private rooms (sleep 1-2) with bunk beds and communal baths, but stays in those rooms don’t include tours or meals.

Getting There

It’s beneficial to have a rental car if you’re staying in El Castillo. The community is a $35 taxi ride from La Fortuna center, and most La Fortuna tour operators charge transportation fees for pickups and drop-offs at El Castillo accommodations. You can avoid paying these if you drive yourself to and from La Fortuna, where most Arenal-area tours start and end.

From La Fortuna, El Castillo is a 25-km (15.5-mi), 40-minute drive west on Road 142 and south on the gravel road known as “the road to El Castillo.”

Local resident Arturo operates an inexpensive shuttle service (tel. 506/8887-9141) that commutes between La Fortuna and El Castillo three times daily (departs El Castillo 8am, noon, and 4pm; departs La Fortuna 9am, 1:30pm, and 6:30pm). It leaves from La Fortuna in front of Super Cristian 1 (Road 702, 125 m/137 yd south of Road 142) and travels to most El Castillo hotels. The fare varies by drop-off location, but the most expensive ride (La Fortuna to Rancho Margot) is only $10 pp. Arturo also offers private transfer services between La Fortuna and El Castillo for $35 per group (up to 4 people).

Alternatively, El Castillo can be reached by public bus from La Fortuna or Ciudad Quesada, typically once daily in the afternoon.

NUEVO ARENAL AND TILARÁN

From the Lago Arenal Dam, Road 142 zigzags west for 30 km (19 mi) to the town of Nuevo Arenal. Aside from the views, you won’t encounter much along the way, apart from groups of coatimundis that barricade the street from time to time. Keep an eye out for them when driving, especially as you make your way around sharp corners.

Most travelers pass Nuevo Arenal on their way from one city to the next. Those who stop and stay awhile are treated to a slice of tranquil lake life. The community promotes stillness and solitude over organized tours.

Tilarán is a peaceful town unbothered by passersby making their way to or coming from Liberia, La Fortuna, or Monteverde. Set atop the Cordillera de Tilarán (Tilarán mountain range), this highland town is a refreshingly cool place to visit, both in temperature and ambience.

Sights

Scenic Views from Road 142

The road to Nuevo Arenal (Road 142) offers panoramic views of Lago Arenal—a scene set with lush rolling hills and sparkling waters. On clear days, if you time it right (around 5pm-6pm), you can witness the lake aglow in shades of pink, orange, and yellow as the sun sets.

For safety, do not pull over to the side of the curvy road to take in a view of the lake. Instead, stop at a roadside restaurant blessed with a beautiful lake view, so you can park your car and gaze at the glistening lake away from the road. The two restaurants that I stop at most often are decent places to grab food and drinks. Pop into either one if you feel hungry or thirsty while journeying through the area.

La Tortuga Arenal (Road 142, 6 km/3.7 mi southeast of Nuevo Arenal; tel. 506/8840-2182; 10am-6pm Fri.-Wed.; $9-17), a rustic restaurant that serves mainly meat and fish dishes, sits atop a small hill. Take a moment to walk to the bottom of the hill and you’ll see the lake up close at water level.

If you would rather enjoy the vista (view) from higher up, check out Café & Macadamia (Road 142, 10 km/6.2 mi west of Nuevo Arenal; tel. 506/2448-0030; www.cafe-macadamia.com; 8am-7pm daily; $7-15.50). This informal establishment, with a floor strewn with macadamia shells, serves mostly pizzas, sandwiches, and traditional Costa Rican food, but I particularly love its mouthwatering baked goods and fruit smoothies. Take your order out back to enjoy it at a cliff-side table that overlooks the lake from above.

Closer to Tilarán, just east of the Lake Arenal Brewery, a straightaway on Road 142 parallels a wide clearing in the forest that reveals the lake. A small grassy area has space for a few vehicles if you want to stop for a moment and enjoy the view. During the high season, locals run souvenir stalls here.

Food and Accommodations

Gingerbread

Road 142, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) east of Nuevo Arenal; tel. 506/2694-0039; www.gingerbreadarenal.com [URL inactive]; 2pm-8pm Tues.-Sat., bar until 11pm; $29-35, cash only

The laid-back Gingerbread, an avant-garde restaurant admired for its Mediterranean, French, and American fusion fare and its focus on fine dining, stands out in the Nuevo Arenal area. If you’re not sure what to order, ask the extroverted, entertaining host and head chef Eyal Ben-Menachem to surprise you with a series of creative custom plates. Reservations are advised.

Lake Arenal Jungle Resort & Brewery

off Road 142, 8 km (5 mi) north of Tilarán; tel. 506/8443-9198; www.lakearenaljungleresort.com; 11am-10pm daily

If you’re both a beer lover and a conservationist, you’ll appreciate the 100 percent solar-powered brewery at the Lake Arenal Jungle Resort & Brewery. Ingeniously, spent grain (used in the beer-making process) is fed to local cows to increase their milk and cheese production; the brewery also runs off methane gas from cow manure. At La Vista Orgánica, the on-site restaurant and bar, you can admire a gorgeous view of Lago Arenal and purchase a beer ($3-6) made with spring-fed water or a sample flight of what’s on tap ($2). Try eight different brews ranging from pale ales to stouts; some are infused with the flavors of Costa Rican mangoes, pineapples, chilies, coffee, and cacao. The craft beer you’ll see on tap in restaurants and bars around the country under the LAB label is manufactured at this eco-conscious brewery.

Villa Decary

Road 142, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) east of Nuevo Arenal; tel. 506/2694-4330; www.villadecary.com; room $109 s/d, casita $164 s/d

My favorite lodging in the area is the quaint bed-and-breakfast Villa Decary. This country hotel provides standard facilities and amenities but excels at putting the guest experience first. With fruit strewn about the seven-acre property to increase bird-watching opportunities and friendly chats with the owners over hearty homemade breakfasts, there’s no doubt you’ll feel appreciated and looked after. Choose one of five basic white-walled rooms with colorful textiles in the hotel’s main building, or one of three freestanding casitas equipped with a kitchen. Each option has a comfortable outdoor seating area.

Information and Services

For a small community, Nuevo Arenal offers a surprising number of services. The village’s core houses a clinic, Ebais Nuevo Arenal (off Road 142, 800 m/0.5 mi west of the main intersection; tel. 506/2694-4163; 7am-3pm Mon.-Thurs., 7am-2pm Fri.) and a pharmacy, Farmacia Nuevo Arenal (Road 142, at the main intersection; tel. 506/2694-4056; 8am-7pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-4pm Sat.), as well as supermarkets, banks, and a police station (off Road 142, 200 m/219 yd west of the main intersection; tel. 506/4001-6911; 24 hours daily).

Tilarán provides all the standard services of a midsize Costa Rican town. There’s a clinic, Clínica Tilarán (Avenida 2 and Calle 6; tel. 506/2695-6710; 24 hours daily) and a nearby pharmacy, Farmacia Elimar (Avenida 2, between Calle Central and Calle 1; tel. 506/2695-7474; 8am-8:30pm Mon.-Sat.).

The town also has a post office (Avenida 1, between Calle 1 and Calle 3; tel. 506/2695-6230; 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Fri.), a police station (Avenida Central and Calle 4; tel. 506/2695-5001; 24 hours daily), supermarkets, and banks.

Getting There

From La Fortuna, it’s a 45-km (28-mi), one-hour drive to Nuevo Arenal west on Road 142, and Tilarán is a 30-km (19-mi), one-hour farther drive southwest. Road 142 runs through both towns.

Public buses travel to Nuevo Arenal and Tilarán from La Fortuna.

CAVERNAS VENADO

Venado Caverns, Road 734, 10 km/6.2 mi southwest of Hwy. 4 at Jicarito; tel. 506/8653-2086; www.cavernasdelvenado.com; 8am-4pm daily; by guided tour only

The region’s deepest and darkest secrets are hidden among the Cavernas Venado, a series of traversable caves just under an hour’s drive from La Fortuna. Provided you are not claustrophobic or opposed to getting dirty and wet, you’ll love exploring the murky underground chambers, which are estimated to be six million years old. Be prepared to climb, crouch, duck, crawl, and squeeze your way through the hollows as you search for insects, arachnids, and bats in the crevices of stalactites overhead and stalagmites below. Bring a set of dry clothes to change into after the tour as well as a set of kneepads—if you can squeeze them into your suitcase.

The owners offer a cave tour (8am, 10am, noon, and 1pm daily; 1.5 hours; $35 adults, $28 ages 5-10; min. age 5), but it’s also possible to visit with a La Fortuna tour operator. Most operators run jaunts to the attraction daily, typically once in the morning and again in the afternoon. Round-trip transportation is included in the cost of tours taken from La Fortuna ($85-100 pp).

Getting There

You can reach the caverns, 40 km (25 mi) from La Fortuna, by taking Road 142 to Highway 4 and turning off the highway toward the community of Venado. (Watch for signs at the turnoff.) The route doesn’t require a 4WD vehicle, but it does require patience, as the last 3 km (1.9 mi) beyond Venado are bumpy.

Northern Inlands

Some of the region’s most picturesque scenes hide in the inland area north of La Fortuna. Swampy marshes and river tributaries twine around the tiny village of Caño Negro. Vast mountains tower over the community of Bijagua. Between the two destinations, kilometers of dry rice fields span open plains.

Rural community tourism is on the rise in the vicinity. Two of the region’s most sought-after attractions—the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro and Río Celeste within the Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio—are additional draws.

S REFUGIO NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE MIXTO CAÑO NEGRO

GOOGLE MAP

Caño Negro Wildlife Refuge; tel. 506/8705-2364; www.sinac.go.cr; 8am-4pm daily; $5 pp

Ornithologists and avid birders shouldn’t miss the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro, a 25,000-acre protected area 60 km (37 mi) north of Muelle, sandwiched between Highway 4 and Highway 35. The grassy and marshy swamps provide some of the country’s best bird-watching opportunities, especially December-April (the peak bird-watching period spans February-March), when North American waterfowl migrate to the refuge to escape the chilly north. Home to a slew of other wildlife, including monkeys, iguanas, and lizards, the refuge’s most obvious inhabitants are the hundreds of caimans that lurk in its waters and nap on its shores. Contained within the refuge, the small community of Caño Negro is the departure point for the refuge’s boat tours.

anhinga in Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro

Boat Tours on Río Frío

The most popular way to explore the area and see some of its birds and wildlife is to cruise Río Frío, the river that borders the refuge. Guided excursions advertised throughout the country as Caño Negro tours are almost always of this kind, unless specified otherwise. Most depart from La Fortuna, although tours to the river can be arranged from elsewhere in the northern inland area, San José, or Guanacaste. From La Fortuna, a solid option is the Unique Caño Negro tour (7:30am daily; 8.5 hours; $72 adults, $50 ages 4-11) led by Canoa Aventura (tel. 506/2479-8200; www.canoa-aventura.com). The tour traverses the river in a covered pontoon boat that can protect you from the sun or rain.

The Community of Caño Negro

You can also experience the refuge from within by visiting the small community of Caño Negro. There are three options; the most popular is to take a boat tour (2-2.5 hours; captains can be hired at the community’s dock) that weaves around the refuge in search of birds and other wildlife. Weather permitting, a stop at an 18-m-tall (59-ft) observation deck that overlooks the wetlands is included. Boat tours cost $65 (1-5 people) and include the services of a Spanish-speaking captain. Expect to pay roughly $20 extra to be accompanied by an English-speaking tour guide.

To explore the refuge on land, head to El Sitio, a visitor center in the southwest end of Caño Negro. It has a long boardwalk that extends out over the water and provides a 360-degree view of the refuge. Though wheelchair-accessible, the boardwalk has a steep incline and decline. A gazebo at the end of the pathway provides seating so you can enjoy the quiet, natural surroundings in comfort.

With a night or two to spare in Caño Negro, hole up at one of the few accommodations in the area and participate in activities arranged by your hotel, such as kayaking and fishing—most famously, tarpon fishing August-March. My two favorite places to stay are the fairly priced but bare-bones Hotel de Campo (Caño Negro; tel. 506/8986-9556; www.hoteldecampo.com; $115 s/d), which has 16 rooms (sleep 1-5), and the superior-quality Natural Lodge Caño Negro (Caño Negro; tel. 506/8547-0437; www.canonegrolodge.com; $170 s/d), which has 42 spacious well-outfitted rooms (sleep 1-4).

Bird-Watching

Bird-watching during boat tours is the foremost activity around the refuge. The list of bird species that call the refuge home is far too long to detail, but sightings of cormorants, herons, owls, anhingas, egrets, ibis, and Costa Rica’s tallest bird, the jabiru stork, are definite draws. The brilliant pink roseate spoonbills, which I have been fortunate enough to spy in great numbers at the refuge, always dazzle me.

Boat tours taken from within the community of Caño Negro (as opposed to boat tours of Río Frío that depart from other destinations) stop at a peculiar tree within the refuge that’s home to a large colony of neotropic cormorants. You can see and hear nearly 100 nesting in the tree, diving for fish in the surrounding lagoon, and harmonizing birdsong that sounds like a cross between low-pitched frog calls and pig grunts.

The Maleku People

Much of the Northern Inlands from the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro to Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio belongs to the canton of Guatuso. The predominantly undeveloped area is culturally significant; it houses Margarita, Tonjibe, and El Sol, the three primary palenques (communities) that form the Reserva Indígena Maleku (Maleku Indigenous Reserve). With roughly 650 surviving members, the Maleku people represent Costa Rica’s smallest Indigenous group, but they’re a proud tight-knit unit that’s actively trying to protect their cultural heritage. Tourism is viewed by many group members as a means to this end. Some individuals and families invite non-Indigenous Costa Ricans and foreign visitors onto their land to learn about the Maleku way of life through organized tours and cultural presentations.

An assortment of Maleku cultural centers cluster around Highway 4, about 50 km (31 mi) south of the community of Caño Negro, 25 km (15.5 mi) east of the entrance to Parque Nacional Volcan Tenorio, or 40 km (25 mi) north of the town of La Fortuna. If you have an interest in learning about Indigenous culture, consider taking a day trip to the Guatuso area from La Fortuna, or scheduling a stop in the area on the day you experience a different attraction in the Northern Inlands.

The following two cultural centers are particularly tourist-friendly (visits require reservation). In addition to offering unique services, both sell original Maleku artwork and provide demonstrations of traditional ceremonies.

RANCHO MALEKU TAFA URÍJÍF

Hwy. 4, 3 km (1.9 mi) southeast of San Rafael de Guatuso; tel. 506/8559-1767

At Rancho Maleku Tafa Uríjíf, you can attend a cultural talk (9am-5pm daily; by guided tour only; 2.5 hours; $40 pp) on the importance of dress, plants, archery, and art to the Maleku people.

RANCHO TOJI JIFURU

Palenque Tonjibe; 4 km (2.5 mi) south of Hwy. 4 at Margarita; tel. 506/8648-5760 or 506/8890-6509; www.malekuindianscostarica.com

At Rancho Toji Jifuru you can learn about the history of the Maleku people and the importance of their medicinal gardens on a guided walk (9am daily; by guided tour only; 3-4 hours; $65 pp) through the group’s reforestation project.

Getting There

To reach the community of Caño Negro from La Fortuna, it’s a 110-km (68-mi), two-hour drive north on Road 142, Highways 4 and 35, and Route 138. You’ll pass through the community of Muelle on this drive. A 4WD vehicle is not required but is useful on bumpy Route 138.

PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCÁN TENORIO

Tenorio Volcano National Park; tel. 506/2206-5369; www.sinac.go.cr; 8am-4pm daily, last entry 2pm; $12 adults, $5 ages 2-12

The not-to-be-missed attraction in the Northern Inlands is Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio. Covering more than 30,000 acres, the park spans much of the land northwest of Lago Arenal, between the towns of San Rafael de Guatuso to the east and Bijagua to the west. From a distance, the lush, dense, forested, and stream-strewn park resembles a mountain. It conceals Volcán Tenorio (Tenorio Volcano), whose crater is not accessible to the public. Thanks to Río Celeste, the jaw-dropping, often opaque, bright blue river that weaves its way throughout the park, this hiking hot spot is on most travelers’ to-do lists.

The main entrance is via El Pilón ranger station (9.5 km/5.9 mi east of Bijagua, 23 km/14.3 mi west of San Rafael de Guatuso) on the north side of the park. An entrance ticket, purchased through the website of Costa Rica’s Sistema Nacional de Áreas de Conservación (National System of Conservation Areas, SINAC; www.sinac.go.cr), is required to access the park through the ranger station.

A lesser-known unofficial entrance exists on the west side of the park via the private Heliconias Rainforest Lodge (off Hwy. 6, 300 m/328 yd southeast of Bijagua; tel. 506/2466-8483; www.heliconiascr.com). The lodge has its own hanging bridges trail, from which you can access the park’s Sendero Lago Danta (Lago Danta Trail).

Operators all over the country offer guided tours to the park. Tours typically start and end in La Fortuna or at destinations in Guanacaste. However, the park’s main trail can be hiked independently.

Sights

Río Celeste

Río Celeste’s striking blue color is the foremost draw of the park. Entering the park through El Pilón ranger station, you can witness the river change from a clear, colorless stream to a cloudy azure waterway. Most vibrant in color during the high season, when rainfall that can diminish the potency of the river’s hue is minimal, Río Celeste is a natural phenomenon you must see for yourself. Note that swimming in the river anywhere inside the park is not allowed.

Río Celeste’s most noteworthy features include a mountain mirador (lookout); the calm blue pool known as Laguna Azul (Blue Lagoon); piping-hot riverside gas vents that create the jetted tub-like Borbollones (“gushing waters” or “bubbling waters”); and Los Teñideros (The Dyers)—the area where the color of the river’s water transforms from a crystal-clear silver to an opaque celestial blue. Hiking the park’s Sendero Principal (Main Trail) takes you to all these.

Catarata Río Celeste

The park amazes visitors with the picturesque 30-m-high (98-ft) Catarata Río Celeste (Río Celeste Waterfall), which spills out of the rainforest into an aquamarine pool. You can get relatively close via a steep 250-step staircase that branches off from the Sendero Principal (Main Trail) and leads down to the waterfall’s base. Swimming is not allowed. You’ll approach the staircase to the waterfall on the left, roughly halfway (1.5 km/0.9 mi) into the hike.

Hiking

Sendero Principal

Main Trail; 3 km (1.9 mi) one-way; 1.5-2 hours; moderate; last entry 2pm

Just beyond El Pilón ranger station you’ll find the Sendero Principal. This moderately difficult trail heads southwest through the park, parallel to Río Celeste, the park’s main attraction. As you hike, you’ll encounter the river’s best features: Catarata Río Celeste (Río Celeste Waterfall); a mountaintop lookout; Laguna Azul (Blue Lagoon); the jetted tub-like Borbollones (“gushing waters” or “bubbling waters”); and Los Teñideros (The Dyers)—the area where the water goes from clear silver to opaque blue. The trail comprises mud, tree branches, and rocks, all of which are trickier to traverse when wet. Keep this in mind if you plan to visit during low season, when rainfall is most common, and dress accordingly; rubber boots can be rented near the park’s entrance ($4). You can hike the trail without a guide, but it’s also a popular outing offered by tour operators across the country.

Sendero Lago Danta

Lago Danta Trail; 2.5 km (1.5 mi) one-way; 2 hours; difficult; guide required; last entry 1pm

To hike the park’s challenging Sendero Lago Danta, you need preapproval by Heliconias Rainforest Lodge (off Hwy. 6, 300 m/328 yd southeast of Bijagua; tel. 506/2466-8483; www.heliconiascr.com), as the trail is accessible only through this private property. Because the trail is rough and rarely trekked, hiking it requires a guide. Tour guides can be booked through the lodge or Bijagua Rainforest Tours (tel. 506/8998-2954; www.bijaguarainforesttours.com). Expect to pay $65 for 1-2 people and $25 per additional person. This trail does not offer views of Río Celeste, but it does travel through two distinct ecosystems, rainforest and cloud forest, and makes a steep climb up to Lago Danta, a peaceful lake with rippling waters.

Getting There

The park can be reached from Bijagua or San Rafael de Guatuso via the unnamed road that connects the two. From San Rafael de Guatuso, it’s a 23-km (13.2-mi), 35-minute drive to the park. From Highway 4, at the north end of San Rafael de Guatuso, the unnamed road is on your left (south), just beyond the bridge over Río Frío. Look for the sign for the Río Celeste Hideaway Hotel.

From Bijagua, it’s a 9.5-km (5.9-mi), 15-minute drive to the park. From Highway 6, at the northeast end of Bijagua, the unnamed road is on your right (east) as you exit town. Look for the sign for Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio.

To reach the park from La Fortuna, take the route through San Rafael de Guatuso. San Rafael de Guatuso is a 45-km (28-mi), 50-minute drive east on Road 142 and northwest on Highway 4 from La Fortuna.

If you won’t have a rental car, you can reserve a seat on the La Fortuna to Río Celeste Shuttle (departs La Fortuna 7am daily, departs park 12:30pm daily; 1.5 hours; $55 pp round-trip) provided by tour outfitter Arenal Evergreen (tel. 506/8545-0475; www.arenalevergreen.com; 9am-5pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-3pm Sun.).

BIJAGUA

Right between Volcán Tenorio and Volcán Miravalles is the town of Bijagua, the western gateway to Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio (Tenorio Volcano National Park). Although the famed Río Celeste may draw you to the Northern Inlands, Bijagua’s handful of other attractions will give you a reason to stay.

Sights

Frog’s Paradise

off Hwy. 6, 500 m (0.3 mi) west of Bijagua; tel. 506/8634-7402; www.frogsparadise.wordpress.com; 6am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 1pm-6pm Sun.; by guided tour only

At this reforested farmland, you can join Spanish-speaking Tío (Uncle) Miguel on his night tour (5:30pm daily; 2-2.5 hours; $20 adults, $10 ages 3-12) as he welcomes you to see where frogs, reptiles, and insects roam free. Though Tío Miguel’s son provides an informative tour introduction in English, the highlight of your experience won’t be something you learn; it will be all that you find fortuitously in the forest, which Tío Miguel identifies using his trusty field guide. Fun and informal, this night tour is a great option for casual explorers.

Tapir Valley

off Hwy. 6, 4.5 km (2.8 mi) east of Bijagua; tel. 506/8610-1608; www.tapirvalley.com; by guided tour only

At the 220-acre private reserve Tapir Valley, across the road from Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio, you might catch a glimpse of the endangered Baird’s tapir. Even if you don’t, this undisturbed reserve is still worth a visit if you long to explore the rainforest and wetlands away from major development and hordes of travelers.

There are two primary ways you can experience Tapir Valley: via the morning bird-watching tour (6am daily; 3 hours; $59 pp), which inspects the reserve for some of Costa Rica’s most colorful and unique-looking birds, or the jungle night tour (5:30pm daily; 2.5 hours; $59 pp), which reveals some of the rainforest’s most active critters. Both experiences are group walking tours; private customized tours are also offered. The vast knowledge, spotting ability, and patience of co-owner and Bijagua local Donald Varela Soto, who guides several of Tapir Valley’s tours, transforms leisurely treks into unforgettable experiences. Self-guided exploration is not permitted.

Local Guides and Tours

Bijagua Rainforest Tours

tel. 506/8998-2954; www.bijaguarainforesttours.com

Bijagua Rainforest Tours is your best bet for organized tours around Bijagua. Tour guide and owner Marlon Calderón Brenes is fluent in English and French, and he runs all kinds of nature tours in the area, including day hikes, specialized bird-watching tours, and night tours, as well as horseback riding and mountain biking excursions. Allow Marlon’s keen spotting skills to enhance your exploration of the region.

Tubing

Onca Tours

off Hwy. 4, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) south of Katira; tel. 506/8399-2757; www.riocelestehiking.com; 7am-7pm daily

Tubing on Río Celeste within Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio is not permitted. However, you can go tubing on a 3-km (1.9-mi) section of the river that flows outside the park’s boundary with Onca Tours. During its Río Celeste Tubing Tour (9am and 1pm daily; 2 hours; $50 adults, $35 ages 4-10; min. age 4), you’ll twist around rocks and sail over small rapids while floating down the blue-hued river, then head to the house of one of the tour guides to enjoy a traditional home-cooked meal.

Swimming Holes

Río Celeste Swimming Hole

1.2 km (0.7 mi) south of El Pilón ranger station, under the bridge; free

If you’d rather swim in Río Celeste and watch parts of your body fade into the river’s unique opacity, a decent place to do that is under the road bridge south of the main entrance to Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio. Although the spot is easy to access, rocks in the riverbed and on the river’s banks can be slippery, and the flow of water can be swift. Take caution when swimming and moving around the river.

If you intend to arrive in a rental car, there is space for a few cars at the north end of the bridge. The bridge is 1 km (0.6 mi) north of the entrance to the Río Celeste Hideaway Hotel.

Food and Accommodations

Tapirus Paradise Río Celeste

550 m (601 yd) southeast of El Pilón ranger station; tel. 506/6175-4234; 11am-10pm daily; $7.50-15.50

Easy to coordinate with a visit to nearby Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio but also worth the 15-minute drive if you’re coming from Bijagua center is Tapirus Paradise Río Celeste. This restaurant provides a well-rounded dining experience with its welcoming atmosphere, attentive service, and diverse menu that spans meat and fish dishes, classic pub grub items, and extra cheesy pizzas baked in a traditional clay and stone fogón (oven). The restaurant is also a work of art; fine carpentry and intricate wood carvings are all around and give the place a likeable rustic character. Take time to examine the handiwork while you wait for your meal.

S Casitas Tenorio B&B

off Hwy. 6, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) southeast of Bijagua; tel. 506/8439-9084; www.casitastenorio.com; $175 s, $185 d

For a hands-on farmstay, book a casita at Casitas Tenorio B&B. The owners pioneered and continue to advocate for rural community tourism in Bijagua; stays provide an opportunity to participate in cow-milking and cheese-making, among other farm activities, and also help support the town of Bijagua through the owner’s numerous community-focused initiatives. The six casitas, which sleep 1-5, are rustic freestanding structures with bedrooms, baths, and a kitchen.

S Río Celeste Hideaway Hotel

1.5 km (0.9 mi) southeast of El Pilón ranger station; tel. 506/2206-4000; www.riocelestehideaway.com; $446 s/d

The Río Celeste Hideaway Hotel is the closest lodging to the entrance of Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio. It brings elegance to the region with its swim-up bar and 26 exquisite casitas—freestanding mini-homes that have a canopy bed, a private garden, and an outdoor stone shower. You can even stroll along a section of Río Celeste that flows through the property. When I want to feel spoiled, a stay here does the trick. This is a romantic spot that’s great for couples and honeymooners.

Río Celeste Backpackers

Hwy. 6, 200 m (219 yd) south of Banco Nacional; tel. 506/2466-8600; https://bijaguabackpackers.jimdofree.com [URL inactive]; dorm $18 pp, private $45 s/d

If you’re traveling on a shoestring, you can save money by staying at the small, one-story, hacienda-style Río Celeste Backpackers. It has one dorm room equipped with eight bunk beds. There are also two lovely, comfortable private rooms (with a shared bath) for 1-2 people. If you don’t have a rental car, the hostel—which feels more like a B&B—is a 10-minute walk (along a highway without sidewalks) from downtown Bijagua and a 15-minute drive or taxi ride from Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio.

Getting There

Bijagua is easy to access from the west by car, as it is on Highway 6. Driving this highway between Highway 1 (the turnoff to Bijagua, a 34 km (21 mi), half-hour drive south of the town) and the town of Bijagua is a pleasant trip; the flat road passes pretty cattle pastures and travels between Volcán Tenorio to the east and Volcán Miravalles to the west. From the east, Bijagua is a 33-km (20-mi), 50-minute drive on the unnamed paved road that departs from Highway 4 at the community of San Rafael de Guatuso.

There are two options to reach Bijagua from La Fortuna. The shortest (80 km) and fastest (1.75 hours) route is the route from the east through San Rafael de Guatuso. From La Fortuna, take Road 142 east, then Highway 4 north to San Rafael de Guatuso and turn left (south) onto the unnamed road that ends in Bijagua. An alternate route (135 km; 2.5 hours) leads west out of La Fortuna on Road 142 to Highway 1, then catches Highway 6 from Highway 1 and travels north to Bijagua. This route captures views of Lago Arenal.

Monteverde and Santa Elena

With an elevation just shy of 1,500 m (4,921 ft), the Monteverde region is one of the best places in Costa Rica to experience a cloud forest ecosystem. Puffy clouds waft through the air, sometimes dense enough to swathe your surroundings in a blanket of white—but only for a moment. As quickly as the haze creeps up on you, it carries on down the road.

Steady low-cloud cover keeps the area cool and refreshing and the land moist. Myriad tree, lichen, flower, fern, and moss species flourish in the climate and create a rich environment for wildlife. The diversity of vegetation around Monteverde—the “Green Mountain”—draws botanists, ornithologists, biologists, and naturalists from all over the globe, as well as casual visitors who flock to the region to learn about and gaze at its pretty forests.

Monteverde is essentially three communities: Santa Elena, Cerro Plano, and Monteverde. The town of Santa Elena, the developed core of the region that represents downtown Monteverde, has a cluster of restaurants, shops, and accommodations nestled within walking distance of one another. One km (0.6 mi) east is Cerro Plano, a community with additional businesses that are spread out over several side roads. The community of Monteverde is the least developed. It is 2.5 km (1.5 mi) southeast of Santa Elena and 1.5 km (0.9 mi) southeast of Cerro Plano, not far from the entrance of the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde. Road 620 connects all three communities, as do the strong bonds shared among their residents, which give the destination a palpable friendly vibe. The region at large is colloquially referred to as “Monteverde.”

There is a common misconception among travelers that only certain attractions in the Monteverde area, namely the cloud forest reserves, provide access to the region’s famed cloud forest. In actuality, the cloud forest ecosystem fans out over much of the Monteverde area, so technically, to reach Monteverde is to reach the cloud forest. Although hiking through a cloud forest reserve is one way to explore the ecosystem, other Monteverde experiences, such as zip-line tours and hanging bridge tours, provide additional opportunities for cloud forest exploration.

SIGHTS

Selvatura Park

off Road 619, 2 km (1.2 mi) north of Santa Elena; tel. 506/4001-7895; www.selvatura.com; 7am-4pm daily; prices vary by activity

If admiring some of Costa Rica’s most cherished creatures is your thing, don’t miss Selvatura Park, where you’ll have the chance to check out snakes, frogs, sloths, butterflies, and other species that contribute to the area’s biodiversity. The park, which also offers zip-line and hanging bridges tours, has three enclosed live animal exhibits, each one a short walk from the others, only accessible by guided tour. You can visit any combination of the exhibits, and tour guides narrate at each, discussing topics such as species identification, behaviors, life cycles, and roles within the ecosystem.

The newest exhibit is the Sloth Sanctuary (8:15am, 1:15pm, and 2:15pm daily; 45 minutes; $40 adults, $28 ages 4-12; by guided tour only). Rescued sloths who are unable to return to their natural habitat reside at the sanctuary, which is a large humidity-drenched dome. Inside, the sloths roam freely and sluggishly around wooden structures and trees. To avoid frightening the fragile creatures when you’re inside the sanctuary, don’t try to touch or take selfies with the sloths, and always maintain a safe distance from them.

The other two exhibits are a Butterfly Garden (every hour 8:15am-3:15pm; 45 minutes; $25 adults, $17.50 ages 4-12; by guided tour only) and a Reptile and Amphibian Exhibition (every hour 8:15am-3:15pm; 45 minutes; $25 adults, $17.50 ages 4-12; by guided tour only). At the butterfly garden, don’t be surprised if a shimmering blue morpho butterfly lands on your shoulder while you stroll around the humid enclosure’s brick paths. At the reptile and amphibian exhibit, you can scare yourself silly with the sight of 30 different types of snakes and frogs living in glass terrariums, including a fer de lance snake, one of Costa Rica’s deadliest species; large boa constrictors; and tiny tree frogs.

Although it’s possible to only tour the exhibits, some visitors also take the park’s 13-cable zip-line canopy tour (8:30am, 11am, 1pm, and 2:30pm; 2.5 hours; $80 adults, $56 ages 4-12; min. age 4) and the Treetop Walkways hanging bridges tour (8:30am, 11am, 1pm, and 2:30pm; 2-2.5 hours; guided tour $80 adults, $56 ages 4-12, self-guided tour $49 adults, $34.50 ages 4-12); the latter is a moderate 3-km (1.9-mi) hike through 90 percent virgin forest and over eight bridges. Without a guide, you can complete the trek in roughly 1-1.5 hours.

One of the vicinity’s most popular adventure parks, Selvatura caters to busloads of visitors daily and operates a ticket-based system for all its attractions. The park sells packages that combine various on-site activities; purchase your preferred package in advance through Selvatura’s website, then pick up your tickets—one for each attraction included with your chosen package—at the park’s busy reception desk on the day of your visit. Most visitors arrive via the complimentary shuttle service that Selvatura includes with its packages, but free parking is provided if you’d rather drive yourself in a rental car. Figure at least seven hours at the park if you want to experience every attraction and squeeze in lunch at the on-site restaurant.

S Treetopia Park

GOOGLE MAP

formerly the Monteverde Sky Adventures Park; off Road 619, 3.5 km (2.2 mi) north of Santa Elena; tel. 506/4000-7292; www.treetopiapark.com; 7am-4pm daily; prices vary by activity

My favorite adventure park in Monteverde is the multifaceted, well-organized Treetopia Park. As a one-stop shop, this park offers several quintessential Monteverde cloud forest experiences, allowing you to maximize fun and exploration and minimize travel time and costs. I particularly love that, despite receiving a steady stream of visitors, the Treetopia Park receives significantly fewer people than the neighboring Selvatura Park, allowing its adventure and nature tours to feel less chaotic and more intimate.

My preferred zip-line tour in Monteverde is Treetopia Park’s Sky Trek canopy tour (multiple times 7am-3pm daily; 2-2.5 hours; $89 adults, $71 ages 5-17; min. age 5). On this zip-line tour, you’ll make eerie but thrilling zips across 10 cables that speed through the clouds, and you can throw caution—and your body—to the wind during an optional adrenaline-inducing, 24-m (79-ft) bungee jump called the “Vertigo Drop” (free with the zip-line tour). This is the only zip-line tour in Monteverde that utilizes the more modern handlebar braking system as opposed to the older braking system, which requires participants to grip zip-line cables by hand using a thick leather glove. As an additional perk, if you take the Sky Trek canopy tour, you’ll get to ride the park’s Tree Tram aerial tram for free; the tram takes you to the top of the forest where the zip-line tour begins.

If you’re not up for the excitement of zip-lining, the gentle Tree Tram (multiple times 7am-3pm daily; 1 hour; $53 adults, $37 ages 5-17) can be experienced on its own. The Tree Tram experience is a gondola ride during which you’ll glide slowly through the treetops up to the Continental Divide, where Monteverde’s lush landscape can be seen for miles.

Other activities worth experiencing at this park include the Sky Walk hanging bridges tour (multiple times 7am-3pm daily; 2 hours; guided tour $54 adults, $41 ages 5-17, self-guided tour $42 adults, $29 ages 5-17) and the Arboreal obstacle course (9am, 11am, 1pm, and 3pm daily; 45 minutes; $55 adults, $39 ages 5-17; min. age 5). On the hanging bridges tour, a hiking tour through a dense part of the cloud forest and across six bridges, including the longest in the area at 236 m (774 ft), you’ll see and hear a variety of plant, bird, and animal species that contribute to the region’s famed biodiversity. More physically challenging is the obstacle course, which will have you climbing trees, crossing Tibetan bridges, and riding the park’s newest feature, the zip-line bike—a zip-line cable that you ride while seated on a bike.

The park sells bundles that mix and match activities, permitting you to choose the exact experiences and itinerary that you want. If you would like to experience everything, you’ll need at least six hours; arrive at the park no later than 11am.

The park’s modern two-story facility has a restaurant, lockers for storing your belongings, and ample free parking. Treetopia can provide round-trip transportation ($12 pp) between the park and Santa Elena and Monteverde hotels.

Monteverde Orchid Garden

Road 606, 25 m (82 ft) north of Road 620; tel. 506/2645-5308; www.monteverdeorchidgarden.com; 9am-5pm daily; $17 adults, $13 ages 6-12

Rumor has it that Monteverde has the highest diversity of orchids in the world. The small forest behind the entrance to the Monteverde Orchid Garden contains an impressive collection of over 450 species, most of which are displayed naturally on the wild plants and trees you’ll walk past along a 300-m (328-yd) accessible path. More than 100 species are always in bloom, no matter the time of year.

The complimentary guided tour (multiple times 9am-4pm daily; 45 minutes) is optional but wows everyone, regardless of your knowledge of flowering plants. Guides offer enough intriguing information and cool facts to fascinate the uninterested, while the tour’s short run time holds the attention of even young visitors. With a trusty magnifying glass in hand, you’ll feel like Sherlock Holmes making your way through the outdoor garden in search of tiny but miraculous orchids and learning how the sneaky species ingeniously disguises itself to lure pollinators. Roughly 80 percent of the orchid species you’ll see in the garden are miniature varieties, some merely a centimeter wide!

Hummingbird Gallery

Road 620, 25 m (82 ft) south of the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde; tel. 506/2645-5030; 8:30am-5pm daily; free

Totally free and worth a visit is the Hummingbird Gallery. The gallery’s biggest draw is the charms of hummingbirds that fly freely around the property and hover in midair as they drink from feeders. On occasion, olingos and coatimundis visit the spot too. Spend as much time as you like admiring and photographing the creatures (about eight different species visit the garden), but remain quiet and avoid using the flash on your camera. Visits do not require a guide or a reservation.

The gallery’s gift shop, Galería Colibrí, sells artwork by Indigenous artists and photographs taken by the couple who owns the property. The on-site café, Café Colibrí, has baked goods, light meals, and beverages. If you don’t buy anything at the shop or the café, you can express your gratitude for the attraction and help further hummingbird research by leaving a tip in the tip box near the feeders. Avoid visiting in the late morning, when tour groups departing from the nearby nature reserve make their way to the gallery.

Cataratas La Piedra del Indio

La Piedra del Indio Waterfalls; Road 145, 25 km (15.5 mi) northwest of Monteverde; tel. 506/8622-5374; www.lapiedradelindiowaterfalls.com; 8am-5pm daily; $17 adults, $10 ages 0-15

Monteverde has a couple of waterfalls, but my favorite to hike to, photograph, and swim in is Cataratas La Piedra del Indio. This sky-high waterfall, a little less than an hour’s drive from Santa Elena, has four tumbling sections, giving the impression that it is four separate cascades. A narrow nature trail traces the waterfall’s edge and descends into the forest, leading visitors from the trailhead at the top of the cascade to a secluded swimming hole at the waterfall’s base. Several waterfall and forest viewpoints, as well as another swimming hole, are encountered along the nature trail, which takes roughly 40 minutes to hike one-way. An uphill climb back to the trailhead is required to leave.

To save time and money, slot a visit to this waterfall into your itinerary during travel between Monteverde and destinations reached by routes to the northwest, like La Fortuna, Liberia, and beach towns on the northern Pacific coast; the office for the waterfall is easy to pull over at on Road 145, part of a route commonly taken to Monteverde. At the office, where you can park your rental car if you arrive in one, you can pay the entrance fee if all you want is to explore the waterfall on your own, or you can sign up for a guided hike (anytime 8am-3pm daily; 1.5-2 hours; $30 adults, $20 ages 0-15) or a combined guided horseback riding and hiking tour (anytime 8am-2pm daily; 3 hours; $65 adults, $50 ages 0-15). Both guided tour options include the waterfall entrance fee. Either is a good option if you want to learn about the ecology and history of the area; the tours are led by Alejandro, a friendly and knowledgeable certified tour guide and the owner of the operation that oversees waterfall access. The horseback riding option provides a lovely hilltop ride near the trailhead prior to the guided waterfall hike.

All visitors, including self-guided explorers, are driven between the office and the trailhead. The 20-minute trip, included in the cost of the entrance fee and provided in a 4WD truck on a bumpy country road, is surprisingly wonderful; it reveals the area’s deep valleys and rolling hills, and makes a brief stop to see the waterfall’s namesake, La Piedra del Indio, a 3,500-year-old rock with petroglyphs that symbolize the moon and stars, the circle of life, and more. Literally off the beaten path, the trip evades the region’s conspicuous tourism and proves that journeys truly can be as rewarding as destinations.

RECREATION

Local Guides and Tours

Pasión Costa Rica

150 m (164 yd) north of the Santa Elena cemetery; tel. 506/6252-4768; www.pasioncostarica.com; 8am-4pm daily

For a selection of less-common experiences, check out the tour offerings of Pasión Costa Rica. Co-owner and certified naturalist guide Marcos Méndez Sibaja is a fantastic resource for unique explorations of Monteverde’s smaller nature reserves and its most popular cloud forest attractions. His company’s name, which means “Passion Costa Rica,” speaks to his enthusiasm for guiding. As he’s a one-man show, book early, especially for high season. Tours start at $85 adults, $25 ages 5-12.

Nasua Tours

Calle Perro Negro, 100 m (109 yd) east of Calle 8; tel. 506/8313-6679; www.nasuatours.com; 7am-9pm daily

Nasua Tours is a small outfitter operating from Santa Elena. Owner Oscar Castillo Mejia is not only a trained tour guide but also an enthusiastic person who is a joy to explore Monteverde with. He specializes in day tours, night tours, and bird-watching expeditions. It’s best to book in advance, especially for tours during the high season. Half-day tours run $25 pp; full-day tours are $220 per group.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Zip-Lining

Canopy tours are one of the most sought-after experiences in Monteverde. In order to be competitive, the top outfitters strive to offer something different from the next.

Treetopia Park

formerly the Monteverde Sky Adventures Park; off Road 619, 3.5 km (2.2 mi) north of Santa Elena; tel. 506/4000-7292; www.treetopiapark.com; 7am-4pm daily; prices vary by activity

The Treetopia Park operates the Sky Trek canopy tour (multiple times 7am-3pm daily; 2-2.5 hours; $89 adults, $71 ages 5-17; min. age 5), which is the only zip-line tour in the area where you brake with metal handlebars instead of your gloved hand. Automatically provided with Treetopia’s canopy tour is a ride on its Tree Tram aerial tram.

100% Aventura

Road 619, 3.5 km (2.2 mi) north of Santa Elena; tel. 506/2645-6388; www.aventuracanopytour.com; 7am-4pm daily

If you want to experience a Superman cable, a forward-facing zip line that allows you to fly like Superman—no cape required—100% Aventura’s nine-cable canopy tour (8am, 11am, 2pm; 2-3 hours; $60 adults, $50 ages 6-12; min. age 6) has the longest one in Costa Rica at more than 1,500 m (0.9 mi).

Monteverde Extremo

off Road 606, 5.5 km (3.4 mi) north of Santa Elena; tel. 506/4001-8295; www.monteverdeextremo.com [URL inactive]; 8am-5pm daily

To experience a Superman cable in the dark, Monteverde Extremo’s 11-cable canopy tour (8am, 11am, and 2pm; 2.5-3 hours; $60 adults, $35 ages 4-12; min. age 4) provides a subterranean Superman cable that whizzes through a fabricated tunnel.

Original Canopy Tour

off Road 620, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) north of Santa Elena; tel. 506/2645-5243; www.canopyoriginal.com; 7am-5pm daily

If you want to give zip-lining a try but don’t consider yourself an adrenaline junkie, head to the Original Canopy Tour, which offers slightly mellower zip-lining experiences. Original Canopy Tour’s 10-cable canopy tour (7:30am, 8am, 10am, 11am, and 2pm; 2-2.5 hours; $68 adults, $45 ages 4-12; min. age 4) has been running since 1994 and pioneered zip-lining in Costa Rica.

Horseback Riding

Horse Trek Monteverde

Road 606, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) north of Santa Elena; tel. 506/8359-3485; www.horsetrekmonteverde.com; 6am-10pm

Horse Trek Monteverde provides the region’s most extensive repertoire of horseback tours. Half-day ($49-69 pp), full-day ($110 pp), and multiday ($399-1,595 pp) excursions that vary in difficulty are available. Choose from mountain and farm rides during the day or at sunset, rides along the Continental Divide, and more. You can also create your own custom tour.

ART STUDIOS AND GALLERIES

The Monteverde vicinity is jam-packed with beautiful art. A number of artists own shops or studios that are open to the public, and you can easily spend a half day hopping from one gallery to the next (this is best done with a rental car).

Faunaglass

Road 606, 15 m (49 ft) south of the central church; tel. 506/2645-7598; www.faunaglass.com; 11am-8pm daily

A small shop worth peeking your head into is Faunaglass. Also known as the Glass Art Studio, the store features glass-blown replicas of Costa Rican animals, including hummingbirds, turtles, sloths, and a variety of frogs crafted by local artist Ángel Castellanos Gomez. Alternatively, you can buy the glass art creations in the gift shop at the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde.

Ferlander Arguedas Studio & Art Gallery

Road 620, 50 m (164 ft) east of Road 606; tel. 506/8500-8787; www.ferlanderarguedas.com; 9am-7pm daily

The resident artist at Ferlander Arguedas Studio & Art Gallery paints on-site, and you can buy unique items like bikinis, handbags, and skateboards that feature the artist’s bold, multicolored signature prints.

Cooperative of Artisans Santa Elena Monteverde

CASEM; Road 620, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) southeast of Santa Elena; tel. 506/2645-5190; 8am-5pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-4pm Sun.

The Cooperative of Artisans Santa Elena Monteverde sells an assortment of crafts, including dolls and stuffed animals, bags and wallets, bookmarks, bracelets, hair ties, and more. CASEM is a nonprofit organization; purchases help support impoverished local families and the cooperative’s artists (mainly women). Keep an eye out for capuchin monkeys while you visit this place; I often see them playing in the trees on the west side of the cooperative.

Rosewood Licho’s Shop

Road 606, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) northwest of Santa Elena; tel. 506/8778-1889; www.rosewoodmtv.weebly.com; 8am-6pm daily

For unique handmade wooden pieces, head to the hidden gem Rosewood Licho’s Shop. Friendly craftsman Jose Luis Arguedas Jimenez (known as “Licho”) is almost always on the premises and can show you around the workshop, where he produces bowls and plates out of fallen rosewood. He also offers free informal walks around his property’s gardens; impromptu visits are permitted.

FOOD

Food and Farm Tours

With the exception of the downtown core, most of Monteverde is rural. A lot of the land is occupied by family homesteads and farms, some of which embrace agritourism and are open to the public for touring. Typically operated by multigenerational families, the area’s farm tours are educational experiences that not only provide an opportunity to learn about a variety of agricultural products but also the local way of life, where habits are rooted in hard work, humility, and connection to the earth. My favorite farm tours in Monteverde cover at least the production of coffee, which flourishes in the destination’s cool climate, and provide product samples, snacks, and a cafecito—a cup of coffee enjoyed unhurriedly and with companionship, typically among Ticos.

Finca Don Juan

Road 606, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) northwest of Santa Elena; tel. 506/4001-8714; www.donjuantoursmonteverde.com; 8am-7:30pm daily

Founded by a member of one of Monteverde’s first farming families, Finca Don Juan hosts a jam-packed Coffee, Chocolate, and Sugarcane Tour (multiple times 8am-4pm daily; 2 hours; $38 adults, $12 ages 7-12) that provides great value by explaining the processing of three tasty products. During the tour you’ll visit stations around the farm to see coffee plant seedlings; the working coffee plantation; the coffee pulping, drying, and shelling processes; and the bean roasting house. You’ll also visit a station that explains how cacao is produced as well as a station that demonstrates how sugarcane is made. Lined with accessible trails, the farm offers an experience for the whole family.

El Trapiche Tour

Road 606, 3 km (1.9 mi) northwest of Santa Elena; tel. 506/2645-7650; www.eltrapichetour.com; 9am-5pm daily

The family-run El Trapiche Tour (10am, 1pm, and 3pm daily; 2 hours; $40 adults, $12 under age 12) focuses on the production of sugarcane, although it also includes chocolate and coffee components. During your visit, you’ll see how three different types of sugarcane mills operate, learn how sugarcane juice is produced, and make your own sugarcane candy. This tour also has accessible trails.

El Cafetal Coffee Tour

8 km (5 mi) south of Santa Elena, San Luis; tel. 506/8359-2946; www.elcafetaltour.com [URL inactive]; 8am-noon and 2pm-4pm daily

For less polished farm experiences than the ones you’ll find in Monteverde, look to the tiny community of San Luis, sunken in a valley south of Monteverde. El Cafetal Coffee Tour (8am, 10am, and 2pm daily; 2 hours; $40 adults, $12 ages 6-12) is hosted by one of the families in the community, and tours are typically led by the Spanish-speaking patriarch but translated to English by an accompanying guide. This farm tour provides a look at age-old and sustainable coffee production methods, as well as other things that grow on the farm, including medicinal plants, ornamental plants, and fruit trees.

The community of San Luis is at the bottom of the steep, narrow, cliff-side path known as La Trocha a San Luis. Although the trip is worth taking for the stunning scenes of pristine mountain terrain—always green and gorgeous—I do not recommend driving the route yourself. Consider using taxi transportation or El Cafetal’s own tour transportation service ($6 pp) to travel to and from the community, even if you have a rental car, to spare you the daunting drive.

Santa Elena

Soda La Amistad

off Road 606, 350 m (0.2 mi) southwest of Santa Elena center; tel. 506/2645-6108; 7am-9pm daily; $8-15.50

At Soda La Amistad, you’ll feel like you’ve been invited into a Tico’s house to sample a homecooked meal. This cozy wooden homestead-turned-restaurant has tables in the “living room” and warm service that lives up to its name (La Amistad translates to “friendship”). The menu is full of rice, meat, and pasta dishes, but the best way to embrace the authenticity of the place is to order what the locals do: casado, and to drink, a tropical fruit batido (smoothie).

S Orchid Coffee

Road 606, beside the Monteverde Orchid Garden; tel. 506/2645-6850; 7am-9pm daily; $10-15

At Orchid Coffee, choose from plenty of breakfast selections (omelets, waffles, and crepes) and lunch options (soups, salads, and sandwiches). The restaurant is one of my favorites in Monteverde because of its laid-back vibe, friendly service, and delicious fresh food and drinks, including rich coffee and flavorful smoothies. Despite moving to a bigger building up the road, the place still exudes a homey ambience.

The Open Kitchen

Road 606, 25 m (82 ft) north of Santa Elena center; tel. 506/4031-3360; 7am-10pm daily; $11-16.50

The Open Kitchen, with its open-concept design that allows you to watch your meal being prepared, whips up a tasty vegan burger with a lentil-based patty and a beet-infused pink bun, among other vegetarian and vegan selections. Meat dishes are also served. The cuisine crosses Costa Rican and Middle Eastern lines; you can dip yuca fries in baba ghanoush or pair patacones (smashed and fried green plantains) with shakshuka or shawarma.

Monteverde

La Cuchara de la Abuela

inside CASEM, Road 620, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) southeast of Santa Elena; tel. 506/2645-5190; 7:30am-4:30pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-3:30pm Sun.; $5-8

Costa Rican comfort food, including soft homemade corn tortillas and warm bowls of olla de carne (beef stew), is served at La Cuchara de la Abuela. Locals favor the tiny authentic spot, which has fair prices and few travelers, though all are welcome. Tucked away in the back of the nonprofit Cooperative of Artisans Santa Elena Monteverde, this restaurant uses profits to help provide employment to the female cooks and waitstaff, all of whom belong to the cooperative.

S Ristorante e Pizzeria Tramonti

off Road 620, 2 km (1.2 mi) southeast of Santa Elena; tel. 506/2645-6120; www.tramonticr.com; noon-3pm and 4:30pm-10pm Thurs.-Mon.; $8-18

Ristorante e Pizzeria Tramonti has fantastic Italian food at fair prices and an even better view of the cloud forest from above the treetops. I’m a sucker for the wood-fired thin-crust pizzas. Twinkling lights and elegantly set tables keep the architecturally stunning rustic restaurant upscale, creating the perfect setting for a romantic or relaxing night out. As good as the entrées are, don’t fill up on them; save room for tiramisu, panna cotta, or an ice cream off the dessert menu.

Choco Café

Road 620, 250 m (273 yd) southeast of Santa Elena; tel. 506/2645-7444; www.chococafecr.com; 7am-9pm daily; $9-19

Before heading out to one of Monteverde’s reserves for some early-morning cloud forest exploration, start the day with a delicious cup of coffee, shot of espresso, or blended frappé at the Choco Café. Catering to your palate, the skilled baristas here can prepare your coffee one of three ways: with a Chemex, a V60 device, or a traditional chorreador, which uses an old-fashioned filter. The café also serves beef, chicken, and pasta dishes, sandwiches, burgers, and quesadillas, but the expertly prepared coffee drinks and desserts, especially the macchiato and affogato, are why I keep going back.

S San Lucas Treetop Dining Experience

350 m (0.2 mi) north of Road 620, 1 km (0.6 mi) east of Santa Elena; tel. 506/8456-1022; www.sanlucas.cr; seatings 12:30pm, 5pm, and 8:30pm daily; $146 pp; min. age 5

Sensational and unique is the San Lucas Treetop Dining Experience, which invites you to dine privately inside a glass box perched among the cloud forest canopy. On par with the unparalleled dining environment are the wildly inventive gastronomic creations—each one delicious, thought-provoking, and inspired by the history, culture, or flora of Monteverde—that form the only item on the menu: a nine-course meal (kids receive a specially crafted child-friendly nine-course meal). All you need to do is select your preference of a meat, pescatarian, vegetarian, or vegan meal, and identify if you’re a gluten- or lactose-free diner, and the chef and waitstaff will take care of the rest. Reservations for the in-demand 2.5-hour intimate culinary journey are required.

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

Pubs and Bars

Monteverde Brewing Company

Road 606, 1.8 km (1.1 mi) northwest of Santa Elena center; tel. 506/8489-7075; www.monteverdebrewingco.com; noon-9pm daily

For quality craft beer, check out the Monteverde Brewing Company, a microbrewery and small brewpub. Each one of the five house creations (four ales and a coffee stout) are hilariously named and can be enjoyed with wings, fries, homemade potato chips, and other pub grub. On Thursday evenings, you can partake in a brewery tour (6pm; 1.5 hours; $35 pp; min. age 18) that starts and ends with beer-tasting and gifts participants a souvenir glass.

Bar y Restaurante Amigos

Road 606, 25 m (82 ft) west of the central church; tel. 506/2645-5071; www.baramigos.com; 11am-2am daily

After dark, quiet Santa Elena comes to life at the local watering hole Bar y Restaurante Amigos. Every ingredient needed for a fun night out is here, including a dance floor, a DJ, food, drinks, TVs, and pool tables. Visit before sundown to admire the view of one of Monteverde’s many valleys from the back of the property. Befittingly, this longtime hangout, in business since 1963, becomes an authentic Costa Rican disco on Sunday nights. Other nights feature live music and karaoke.

Live Music

Tree House Restaurant & Café

Road 606, 15 m (49 ft) south of the central church; tel. 506/2645-5751; www.treehouse.cr; 11:30am-10pm daily

You can catch live music performances most evenings at the Tree House Restaurant & Café, a must-see restaurant with an ancient ficus tree in the center.

ACCOMMODATIONS

If you want to save substantially on accommodations, Santa Elena has plenty of shared room options. At least 10 hostels (pensions and B&Bs with dormitory rooms included) are in the downtown core.

My favorite Monteverde-area accommodations are outside Santa Elena center, in the neighborhoods to the immediate north and southwest, as well as in the communities of Cerro Plano and Monteverde to the southeast. Here you’ll find an assortment of woodsy rooms, cabins, lodges, and villas where you can appreciate the sights and sounds of the mountain’s biodiversity.

Santa Elena

Camino Verde B&B

off Road 606, 350 m (0.2 mi) southwest of Santa Elena center; tel. 506/2645-5641; www.hotelcaminoverde.com; $82 s/d

You cannot go wrong with the Camino Verde B&B. The budget-friendly two-story home has 19 simple but quiet rooms; all are private, but a few have shared baths. A plateful of fresh tropical fruit and your choice of either gallo pinto (a traditional rice and bean blend) or pancakes and eggs are included in the room rates. Regardless of whether it is sunny, cloudy, or rainy, plan to spend the majority of your time at the B&B relaxing on the covered deck; it’s the best spot in the place.

S Monteverde Villa Lodge

off Road 606, 750 m (820 yd) southwest of Santa Elena center; tel. 506/2645-7283; www.monteverdevillalodge.com; room $128 s/d, bungalow $169 s/d

When in Santa Elena, the place I stay at most often is the Monteverde Villa Lodge. It’s easy to feel at home at this hotel because the Costa Rican couple that manages it strives to make guests feel welcome—and like part of their own family. I love the four spacious bungalows (sleep 1-5) in particular; they have a kitchenette equipped with a microwave and a small fridge. The main building of the quiet hotel has additional rooms (sleep 1-4). All are immaculately kept and have natural mixed-wood decor; some have beautiful murals of rainforest scenes. Included with your stay is a delicious home-cooked breakfast.

Monteverde

S Valle Escondido Nature Reserve, Hotel, & Farm

off Road 620, 2 km (1.2 mi) southeast of Santa Elena center; tel. 506/2645-5156; www.valleescondidocr.com; room $136 s/d, suite $187 s/d

Valle Escondido Nature Reserve, Hotel, & Farm, with 20 rooms and suites in four one- and two-story buildings, is a model of ecotourism in Monteverde thanks to its commitment to permaculture. In addition to the hotel’s numerous energy-saving and eco-friendly efforts, the owner operates an on-site permaculture farm (www.permaculturecr.com) where rainwater and gray water is collected and reused, compost and organic waste is repurposed as fertilizer, and guided tours and workshops explore sustainability in theory and practice. As a sister property of the adjacent cloud forest preserve Valle Escondido, self-guided exploration of the protected reserve’s nature trails as well as the permaculture farm is free. Overnight stays help fund both noble green initiatives.

Cala Lodge

off Road 620, 1.6 km (1 mi) southeast of Santa Elena; tel. 506/2645-5626; www.calalodge.com; family suite $192 s/d

I like the woodsy Cala Lodge, but if you choose this hotel, go with one of the family suites, even if you’re traveling on your own. These suites are on a different road than the hotel’s main building, which houses the reception, dining area, and an outdoor lounge, but are still connected to it by a short nature trail. The secluded-feeling suites are also supremely quiet, have a full kitchen, can accommodate up to five guests, and feel like cottages. Several natural sights have pleasantly surprised me at this hotel, from nesting motmots and wandering coatis to rainbows in the frame of the lodge’s beautiful valley view, so keep an eye out for them.

S Los Pinos

off Road 620, 1.3 km (0.8 mi) southeast of Santa Elena; tel. 506/2645-5252; www.lospinos.net; standard $182 s/d, superior $210 s/d, family $220 s/d

For a romantic getaway among the clouds, hole up in one of the superior cabañas at Los Pinos. These delightful accommodations have a cozy bedroom with a king bed, a comfortable living room, a full kitchen, an inviting stone fireplace, and a covered wraparound porch with outdoor seating. Spend the day bird-watching or exploring on-site nature trails (don’t miss the vista from the viewpoint along the trail signed as Sendero 5; it illustrates just how much of Monteverde is shrouded by forest) and the evening snuggling by the fire. The property’s 16 cabañas also provide standard units (sleep 1-3) and three-bedroom, three-bath family units (sleep 1-6), but the superior cabañas are second to none.

Senda Monteverde

off Road 620, 750 m (820 yd) southeast of Santa Elena; tel. 506/4040-0421; www.sendamonteverde.com; $650 s/d

One of few resort-like properties in Monteverde is the eco-friendly Senda Monteverde. At first glance this mountain lodge seems like most in Monteverde, offering 24 quaint rooms (the largest sleeps six) in duplexes that resemble rustic chalets. But unique extras add a splash of luxury. Cozy communal bonfires, complimentary hot water bottles and minibar items, superb customer service, and curated activities make Senda a well-rounded ecolodge experience. Set among forest next to the Aguti Natural Preserve, guests can access the preserve’s trails for free.

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

The Monteverde region does not have a hospital, but there is a clinic, Ebais Monteverde (200 m/219 yd southwest of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2645-5076; 6am-5pm daily), just outside Santa Elena center. Farmacia Vitosi (Road 606, southwestern side of Santa Elena’s downtown triangle; tel. 506/2645-5004; 8:30am-8pm daily) and other pharmacies can be found in the heart of Santa Elena.

A police station (off Road 606, 500 m/0.3 mi north of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2645-7074; 24 hours daily) and a post office (Road 620, 400 m/0.25 mi southeast of Santa Elena center; tel. 506/2645-5042; 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri.) are on the outskirts of town.

Money can be obtained from Banco Nacional (Road 606, northeastern side of Santa Elena’s downtown triangle; tel. 506/2645-5610; www.bncr.fi.cr; 8:30am-3:45pm Mon.-Fri.) or the ATM just up from the Super Compro.

The grocery store Super Compro (Road 606, 100 m/109 yd west of Santa Elena center; tel. 506/7269-9337; 7am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 7am-9pm Sun.) is within walking distance of most establishments in Santa Elena center. There’s a gas station on Road 620 roughly 2 km (1.2 mi) southeast of Santa Elena, across from the administrative office for the Bosque Eterno de los Niños.

GETTING THERE

Boat

If you plan to visit the Monteverde vicinity from La Fortuna, one of the best ways to reach Santa Elena is by boat, crossing Lago Arenal. The van-boat-van service (formerly called the jeep-boat-jeep service, sometimes referred to as the taxi-boat-taxi service; $34-49 pp) combines ground transportation from La Fortuna to the lake, a boat ride across the lake, and ground transportation to Santa Elena. The entire route takes 3.5 hours and typically operates once in the morning (8am-8:30am daily) and again in the afternoon (2pm-2:30pm daily). The two best service providers are Ride Costa Rica (tel. 506/2469-2020; www.ridecr.com) and Desafio Adventure Company (tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com). Both companies operate from La Fortuna.

Car

The roads around Santa Elena are a mixed bag—most are freshly paved, and others (mainly Road 606 approaching Monteverde) are gravel and dirt paths that require a slower speed. Having a 4WD vehicle is recommended but not required. Prepare yourself for the highs and lows of mountainous driving, including sharp turns, steep cliffs, and the occasional loss of Wi-Fi (have directions, a road map, or an offline map handy for the drive)—and rewarding, jaw-dropping views of the area’s rich landscape, which more than make up for the other inconveniences. You’re bound to encounter cloud cover as the drive increases in elevation, so avoid driving at night as darkness only worsens the hazard.

From San José to Santa Elena, the 150-km (93-mi) drive on Highway 1 and Road 606 takes about 3 hours. From La Fortuna, the 115-km (71-mi) drive around Lago Arenal on Roads 142, 145, and 606 takes about 3.5 hours. From Liberia, the 110-km (68-mi) drive on Highway 1, Road 145, and Road 606 takes around 2 hours.

There are gas stations on Highway 1 before the turnoff for Las Juntas de Abangares (coming from Liberia), at the main intersection in Tilarán (coming from La Fortuna), and on Road 606 on the outskirts of Santa Elena as you enter town (coming from San José).

Driving around the center of Monteverde is much easier; the roads are hilly but smooth. Note that in Santa Elena, Road 606—the main drag—takes the shape of a triangle, and all three sides are one-way streets where traffic flows counterclockwise. Parking spaces line the westernmost side of the triangle, which is also where taxis can be hailed; they can take you wherever you need to go.

Bus

The regional bus station is on Road 620, about 250 m (273 yd) southeast of Santa Elena’s center. You can reach Monteverde by public bus from San José, Tilarán, or Puntarenas.

Organized Tour

The Guanacaste-based Tenorio Adventure Company (tel. 506/2668-8203; www.tenorioadventurecompany.com) operates white-water rafting tours and safari float tours that depart from several beach towns on the northern Pacific coast and provide onward transportation to Monteverde after the river trips.

Private Transfer Service

Almost all private transfer service providers in the country cover routes to Monteverde. Operating directly from Monteverde is Faro Travel (tel. 506/2645-6564; www.farotravelcostarica.com), a longstanding, family-run business that can get you to Santa Elena from virtually any destination countrywide. Budget roughly $275 for the route from San José.

Shared Shuttle Service

Well-known service provider Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com) can shuttle you to the Monteverde region from the country’s most frequented areas. Daily morning and afternoon departures are available from most towns. One-way fares from San José are approximately $50 pp.

GETTING AROUND

Santa Elena’s downtown triangle is primarily flat and not difficult to walk. But beyond this core part of the destination, Monteverde is vastly hilly. Drive or take a taxi wherever you need to go outside of Santa Elena to avoid steep uphill or downhill treks, often on roads without sidewalks.

RESERVA BIOLÓGICA BOSQUE NUBOSO DE MONTEVERDE

Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve; Road 620, 5.5 km (3.4 mi) southeast of Santa Elena; tel. 506/2645-5122; www.cloudforestmonteverde.com; 7am-4pm daily, last entry 2pm; $26 adults, $13 ages 6-12

From Santa Elena, Road 620 weaves southeast for several kilometers (passing through Cerro Plano and Monteverde along the way) and ends at the entrance of the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde, the region’s most visited cloud forest reserve. The nearly 26,000-acre space is lush and rainforested, with giant tree trunks, intertwining roots and branches, moist and sometimes musky air, and regular wafts of fog.

The protected land is a beacon of biodiversity in Costa Rica. More than 100 species of reptiles, 60 species of amphibians, and 6 species of jungle cats (among other mammals, including monkeys, bats, peccaries, and tapirs) inhabit the reserve, along with an immeasurable number of insects and birds. Nonstop visitor flow during operating hours makes wildlife-watching a challenge but certainly not impossible. Easier to see is evidence of the reserve’s extraordinary collection of over 3,000 species of plants and trees. The majority are in low montane rainforest, where it is estimated that up to 10 percent of the flora is unique to the area.

Part of the thrill of visiting this park is experiencing the feeling of walking through clouds. Guided walking tours accomplish this and come in a variety of forms: the early-morning bird-watching tour (6am; 6 hours; $90 pp), the afternoon educational tour (1pm; 2 hours; $45 adults, $32 ages 6-12), and the night tour (5:45pm; 2 hours; $25 pp); the reserve entrance fee is included in the cost of each tour. Tour guides can be hired directly through the reserve—which is managed by the Centro Científico Tropical (Tropical Science Center)—or through tour operators in town. Reservations for tours are required. The park’s trails can also be explored without a guide. Reservations for unguided visits are not required but are advised, especially if you plan to visit during the morning, when the reserve is the busiest. Since entry is restricted to 250 people at a time, without a reservation you may end up waiting at the entrance indefinitely.

Sights

Continental Divide

One of Monteverde’s claims to fame is the passage of the Continental Divide, the ridge that separates water flow to the Atlantic from water flow to the Pacific, through the region. The divide offers a beautiful and seemingly endless view, although gusty trade winds keep it clouded over most of the time. Within the reserve, you can find the divide at the end of the Sendero Bosque Nuboso (Bosque Nuboso Trail) and the Sendero Camino (Camino Trail). A sign at La Ventana marks the spot.

Hiking

The reserve boasts an impressive 13-km (8.1-mi) trail system beyond the main visitor center. If you are a beginner hiker or restricted to a tight time line, choose one or two of the principal trails where the majority of visitors trek. With a free day and a generous amount of energy, you can explore the mystical cloud forest extensively by covering every one of the park’s paths.

The Sendero Bosque Nuboso and the Sendero Camino are the most frequented trails. Both start at the reserve’s entrance and run parallel to each other, following a jagged line that ascends to the east and ends near La Ventana (The Window)—a lookout point over the Continental Divide.

Sendero Bosque Nuboso

Bosque Nuboso Trail; 2 km (1.2 mi) one-way; 45 minutes; moderate

The Sendero Bosque Nuboso is named “cloud forest” for a reason; the narrow path cuts through dense forest where the air is moist and usually cluttered with clouds. It is the prettiest trail in the park and perfectly resembles the scene you probably envision when you think of a cloud forest.

Sendero Camino

Camino Trail; 2 km (1.2 mi) one-way; 30-45 minutes; easy-moderate

In contrast, the Sendero Camino offers less rugged terrain, a wider track, and an easier hike, but at the cost of a less scenic experience.

Sendero Wilford Guindon

Wilford Guindon Trail; 1.7 km (1.1 mi) one-way; 30 minutes; moderate

Hiking Around Monteverde

The Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde and the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena are two of the largest and most well-known nature reserves in the Monteverde vicinity. With extra time in the area, or if you enjoy hiking or bird-watching along unfrequented forest trails, consider exploring additional reserves. Most permit self-guided exploration but also offer guided tours. Reservations for guided tours are advised.

Here are some quiet worthwhile options:

RESERVA CURI-CANCHA

300 m (328 yd) northeast of Road 620, 3 km (1.9 mi) southeast of Santa Elena; tel. 506/4002-4560; www.reservacuricancha.com; 7am-4:30pm daily, last entry 3pm; $20 adults, $12 ages 5-20

As many as seven intertwined trails provide relatively easy hikes through Reserva Curi-Cancha. Half of the 200-acre reserve is primary forest, and the other half is a mix of secondary forest and pastureland. It’s a great spot for bird-watching on your own. The reserve also runs guided bird-watching tours, as well as guided day hikes and night tours.

Getting There

The drive from Santa Elena center to Reserva Curi-Cancha is 3 km (1.9 mi) and takes seven minutes. Exit Santa Elena to the east on Road 620 and turn left on the unnamed road at the large Fábrica de Quesos (cheese factory). The reserve is roughly 250 m (273 yd) northeast of the cheese factory.

VALLE ESCONDIDO

Hidden Valley, off Road 620, 2 km (1.2 mi) southeast of Santa Elena center; tel. 506/2645-5156; www.escondidopreserve.com; 7am-4:30pm daily, last entry 3pm; $18 adults, $8 ages 5-12

With valley and waterfall viewpoints, and a stunning look at the Golfo de Nicoya, the small 44-acre Valle Escondido is my favorite reserve in the area for scenic valley views. Some of the trails, including one that visits a waterfall viewpoint, are wheelchair-accessible. Reserve staff run bird-watching tours, day hikes, night tours, and inspiring, thought-provoking permaculture tours.

Getting There

The drive from Santa Elena center to Valle Escondido is 2 km (1.2 mi) and takes five minutes. Exit Santa Elena to the east on Road 620 and turn right on the unnamed road at the school. After 350 m (0.2 mi), turn left on the unnamed road signed for the Night Walk Hidden Valley Trail. The reserve’s entrance and administrative office is at the end of the road, roughly 400 m (0.25 mi) beyond the turn.

The Sendero Wilford Guindon provides access to the reserve’s one and only hanging bridge (not to be confused with the Monteverde region’s famed hanging bridges, located off-site).

Bird-Watching

The reserve is a fantastic locale for bird-watching, especially December-April, when over 20 percent of the protected area’s migratory species come to visit. Rife with fruit and insects, the reserve pleases the resplendent quetzal, a brightly colored and sometimes long-tailed trogon (a type of tropical bird) that can be seen in the vicinity. More likely to be heard, however, is the three-wattled bellbird. Their tinny “bonk” is easily recognizable; it sounds throughout the reserve like a rusty swing.

Getting There

To drive to the reserve, exit Santa Elena to the east and take Road 620 as far as you can, roughly 5.5 km (3.4 mi). From Santa Elena center, the drive is 12 minutes. A 4WD vehicle is recommended but not required.

The reserve’s official parking lot, which is the only place to park in the vicinity (roadside parking is not permitted), is on the east side of Road 620, approximately 1.5 km (0.9 mi) before the entrance to the reserve. Shuttles provide complimentary transportation to the entrance and back every few minutes. The fee to park is $5, part of a fund-raising effort; proceeds support Monteverde’s Red Cross program. It’s paid at the entrance to the reserve, not at the parking lot. Hold onto the parking receipt you receive at the entrance; you’ll need it to exit the parking lot.

You can hire an official taxi to take you to the reserve or take the public bus that travels between Santa Elena center and the reserve a few times daily. If you’re staying at a lodging along Road 620, you can catch the bus as it travels between town and the reserve.

TOP EXPERIENCE

S RESERVA BIOLÓGICA BOSQUE NUBOSO DE SANTA ELENA

Santa Elena Cloud Forest Biological Reserve; off Road 619, 3.5 km (2.2 mi) northeast of Santa Elena; tel. 506/2645-5390; www.reservasantaelena.org; 7am-4pm daily, last entry 3pm; $18 adults, $9 ages 13-18, $7 ages 8-12

Complete cloud forest immersion awaits at the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena. This 766-acre reserve is significantly smaller, slightly higher in elevation, and noticeably less busy than the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve. The lush scenery and wildlife-spotting opportunities at both reserves are similar, but what is truly remarkable about the Santa Elena Cloud Forest Biological Reserve is its aura of calm. Visit this reserve if you don’t just want to tour a cloud forest, you want to connect with it on a soulful level by walking slowly, breathing deeply and with focus, and paying attention to what you see and hear. This is a great place to experience Costa Rica mindfully.

visitor center at Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena

Local Tours and Guides

Through the visitor center, you can obtain a tour guide to lead you on a natural history walk (7:30am, 9:15am, 11:30am, and 1pm daily; 2.5 hours; $35 adults, $20 ages 13-18, $20 ages 8-12) through the property’s secondary and premontane wet forest if your primary reason for visiting is to learn about the reserve and see some of its plants, birds, and animals. All guided bookings require at least two days’ notice; reserve by telephone or through the reserve’s website. The price of the tour includes admission.

Self-guided exploration is encouraged (walk-ins are welcome) and one of my favorite ways to experience the reserve, especially when I need to renew my relationship with nature. Parts of the reserve have placards (titled as “invitations”) that support that process, asking “what does it feel like to be here” and other introspective questions. The prompts suggest ways of interacting with and learning from the local ecosystem, but they’re easy to skip if they don’t speak to you.

Another great way to experience the reserve is by taking the guided Coffee in the Clouds Tour (4:50am Fri.-Mon.; 1.5-2 hours; $35 pp, includes reserve entrance fee), a sunrise tour. Beginning in the dark, you’ll walk for 15 minutes to the reserve’s observation tower and make a 5-minute climb up to the top. From there, you’ll hear the fascinating cloud forest awaken, and you’ll watch the sun illuminate the treetops at dawn. In addition to offering a rare bird’s-eye view of the forest transitioning from night to day, the tour provides complimentary coffee and access to the reserve before it opens. When the sunrise tour wraps up, you can spend the rest of the day exploring the network of trails at your own pace at no extra cost.

Hiking

Sendero Mundo Jóven

Mundo Jóven Trail; 500-m (0.3-mi) loop; 10 minutes; easy

The short Sendero Mundo Jóven, the first trail you’ll encounter beyond the entrance to the park, is entirely paved and wheelchair-accessible.

Sendero Youth Challenge

Youth Challenge Trail; 1.5-km (0.9-mi) loop; 45 minutes; easy-moderate

On clear days, you can see Volcán Arenal, Volcán Rincón de la Vieja, Volcán Miravalles, and Volcán Tenorio from the observation tower along the leisurely Sendero Youth Challenge. In addition to this viewpoint, an observation platform provides a second viewpoint along the same trail.

Sendero del Bajo

Del Bajo Trail; 2.5-km (1.5-mi) loop; 1.5 hours; moderate

Sendero del Bajo is where you’ll find most of the reserve’s placards that invite gentle thought and reflection. This trail also shows off several of the reserve’s stately trees, which serve as a humbling reminder of the forest’s magnificence.

Sendero Encantado

Encantado Trail; 3.5-km (2.2-mi) loop; 2-3 hours; moderate

Forming part of the trail network’s perimeter, Sendero Encantado is a great place for bird-watching. The quetzals I have seen in this reserve were spotted along this trail.

Sendero Caño Negro

Caño Negro Trail; 4.5 km (2.8 mi) one-way; 3-4 hours; moderate-difficult

The Sendero Caño Negro is a semicircular trail that provides the roughest and most adventurous trek in the reserve as well as access to another viewpoint. You may hike this trail in one direction only; enter where the trail meets Sendero del Bajo and exit where the trail meets Sendero Encantado.

Getting There

To drive to the reserve, exit Santa Elena to the north on Roads 606 and 619 and continue until Road 619 forks. Stay right on the unnamed road for 3.5 km (2.2 mi), following the signs to the reserve or to Selvatura Park. From Santa Elena center, the drive is 15 minutes. A 4WD vehicle is recommended but not required. There’s a small parking lot at the trailhead; parking is free.

Guanacaste and the Northern Pacific

HIGHLIGHTS

MAP: GUANACASTE AND THE NORTHERN PACIFIC

ORIENTATION

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Itinerary Ideas

TWO DAYS OF SURFING, SIPPING DRINKS, AND STROLLING AROUND TAMARINDO

A NORTHERN PACIFIC COAST ROAD TRIP

Liberia and Vicinity

LIBERIA

MAP: LIBERIA

PARQUE NACIONAL PALO VERDE

PARQUE NACIONAL RINCÓN DE LA VIEJA

MAP: RINCÓN DE LA VIEJA

PARQUE NACIONAL SANTA ROSA

Playas del Coco and Vicinity

MAP: PLAYAS DEL COCO AND VICINITY

PLAYAS DEL COCO

PLAYA HERMOSA

Playa Flamingo and Vicinity

MAP: PLAYA FLAMINGO AND VICINITY

PLAYA FLAMINGO AND BRASILITO

POTRERO, SURFSIDE, AND LAS CATALINAS

Tamarindo and Vicinity

TAMARINDO

MAP: TAMARINDO

PLAYA GRANDE

MAP: PLAYA GRANDE

Highlights

Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.

S Dive with bull sharks in Bahía Murciélago (click here).

S Visit a rustic ranch or adventure park around Volcán Rincón de la Vieja (click here).

S Surf the breaks at Witch’s Rock and Ollie’s Point (click here).

S Treat yourself to luxurious experiences on the affluent Peninsula Papagayo (click here).

S Spend a day beach-hopping from Playa Flamingo to Playa Conchal and Playa Puerto Viejo (click here).

S Dive with manta rays at Islas Catalina (click here).

S Check out the vibrant Tamarindo nightlife at a variety of hopping venues in town and on the beach (click here).

In Guanacaste, Costa Rica’s hottest and driest region, you’ll find a reprieve from the heat under the shade of its eponymous trees, also known as elephant-ear trees. For much of the year, this deciduous giant—the country’s national tree—is full and emerald green. In contrast, during the drought season, January-April, it’s bare and brown. This transformation is echoed throughout the region, which is predominantly tropical dry forest. Comprising plants, trees, and vines, the threatened tropical dry forest struggles to survive when rainfall is sparse. It loses some of its fauna to wetter areas, and it is most susceptible to forest fires. January-April, under the lustrous rays of a beating sun, Guanacaste glows in golden hues.

A microcosm of Costa Rica, Guanacaste has friendly people, delicious food, wild adventures, diverse landscapes, and a relaxed pura vida attitude. Nicknamed the Gold Coast, Guanacaste is most adored for its coastal communities and pristine beaches. No matter what you’re looking for—lively beach towns with waterfront bars, quiet villages with spectacular sunset views, all-inclusive resorts just steps from the beach, or your own remote oasis—Guanacaste has it. It’s family-friendly, idyllic enough for honeymooners, and thrilling for water sports enthusiasts, so it’s no surprise that Guanacaste attracts just about every type of traveler.

This region is also steeped in rural culture and tradition, and locals revel in it. Guanacaste hosts some of the best parties, parades, rodeos, and other cultural events that celebrate its people’s vivacity and their national and provincial heritage.

ORIENTATION

Guanacaste takes up the northwestern corner of the country. From the border with Nicaragua, it stretches as far south as the Nicoya Peninsula and the central Pacific coast, and as far east as the northern inland area. The Carretera Interamericana (Inter-American Highway), also known as the Pan-American Highway or Highway 1, draws a vertical line through the region and passes by agricultural towns. Many of Guanacaste’s most-visited adventure parks and protected lands are accessible via side roads that branch off from the highway in all directions.

Within the region, Liberia, Guanacaste’s largest city, and its airport, the Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós (Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport, also called the Guanacaste Airport) are centrally located. If you travel to Guanacaste from other areas in the country, you’ll likely pass through Liberia on your way to the region’s mountainous inlands or the coast.

The region’s coast is split into a northern and southern half as a result of access roads that cluster around two separate areas of Highway 21. The northern half of Guanacaste’s coast reaches from Peninsula Papagayo down to Playa Ocotal. Playas del Coco is that section’s hub. The southern half of the coast stretches from Playa Dantita to Playa Negra; its hub is Tamarindo.

Highway 21, one of the region’s main thoroughfares, originates at Highway 1 in Liberia. From there, it runs west toward the Pacific coast. Several roads branch off from Highway 21 to provide access to most of the region’s coastal communities and beaches. Road 253 leads north to Peninsula Papagayo. Road 254 leads west to Road 159, which travels south to Playa Hermosa. Road 151 leads west to Playas del Coco and connects with Road 159 and Playa Hermosa to the north. Road 155 leads south to Tamarindo. Branches off this road include Road 180, which passes through Brasilito and Playa Flamingo before connecting with other roads to Potrero, Surfside, and Las Catalinas; and Road 933, which provides access to Playa Grande. You’ll travel these roads often if you plan to beach-hop or make frequent day trips between towns.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

A popular option—especially among resort-goers—is to use Guanacaste as a base to take day trips, including boat tours around Parque Nacional Palo Verde to view rare migratory birds, and visits to Catarata Llanos del Cortés, where you can swim at the gentle cascade’s base.

If you’re splitting your time in Costa Rica across two or more regions, Guanacaste makes a great last destination. Seemingly endless coastline provides plenty of beaches to relax at during your last few days in paradise. Go beach-hopping between the region’s best: postcard-worthy Playa Flamingo, white sand and shell-filled Playa Conchal, and the peaceful Playa Puerto Viejo. If you’re a night owl, give yourself a few evenings in Tamarindo to experience the beach town’s vibrant nightlife. If you want to unwind, check into a top-level resort on the luxurious Peninsula Papagayo for as many relaxing nights as you need before heading home.

Desire a grand finale? Dive with bull sharks in Bahía Murciélago and manta rays at Islas Catalina, or ride the notorious surf at Witch’s Rock and Ollie’s Point. You’ll need a full day for any of these extreme adventures.

If you’re not looking for more beach time, explore Guanacaste’s inland area. A fabulous collection of accommodations and adventure parks is scattered on the slopes of Volcán Rincón de la Vieja. Opposite the modern properties that line the coast, the mountain’s low-key rustic ranches and adventure parks are worth a day trip or an overnight stay. They’ll wow you with authenticity and traditional Tico hospitality. If visiting the inland area isn’t on your agenda, you can get a feel for the region’s rural culture during your time on the coast by taking part in the barbecue fiesta at the cowboy saloon at Black Stallion Eco Park.

One important date to keep in mind when planning your visit is July 25, the Anexión de Guanacaste (Annexation of Guanacaste). In many town centers around the province—including Liberia, Playas del Coco, and Tamarindo—people celebrate Guanacaste becoming a Costa Rican territory with parades, firework displays, and other events. Joining the celebrations is a fun way to get to know the area and the people, but many businesses are closed for the day. If you don’t plan to take in the festivities, avoid driving through town centers in the province to bypass the day’s crowds.

Weather and Transportation

Guanacaste is hot! The region has an average temperature over 27°C (80°F), receives very little rainfall (with next to none January-March), and boasts the highest percentage of sunshine in Costa Rica. Although areas at higher elevations east of Liberia provide cooler temperatures, plan for scorching sun along the coast. Take water, a hat, and sunscreen wherever you go. If you plan to be active, prepare yourself for dry air and infrequent shade. Rain showers May-November provide some relief. The wettest months are June, September, and October.

A few paved highways make it easy to travel through most of Guanacaste. Side roads can be asphalt, flattened gravel, or dirt. Most routes between Liberia and the popular beach destinations do not require a 4WD vehicle, but it’s smart to have one if you plan to explore back roads (including the infamous Monkey Trail) or venture into mountainous areas. During wet periods, rain can make poorly maintained roads impassable.

Itinerary Ideas

TWO DAYS OF SURFING, SIPPING DRINKS, AND STROLLING AROUND TAMARINDO

Embrace Tamarindo’s vibrant surf culture, social spirit, and crowd-pleasing nightlife with this two-day itinerary that balances recreation with relaxation.

Day 1

1 Take the morning to casually explore Calle Central, Tamarindo’s store- and plaza-lined main drag. Start at the north end of town and stroll south, stopping along the way to shop at roadside stalls and boutiques that catch your eye.

2 When you reach Tamarindo’s southern end, eat lunch at one of the town’s oldest establishments, Nogui’s. Afterward, check out CATA, the bar above Nogui’s, and sip a cocktail or mocktail while taking in the ocean view.

3 Give yourself an hour or two to lounge on Playa Tamarindo or walk along the beach to see its lineup of waterfront restaurants and bars.

4 Late in the afternoon, be at the Black Stallion Eco Park to experience the Sunset Horseback Ride and Gourmet BBQ Combo. Go riding around private trails at the park’s hilltop ranch and fill up on food at the meat-heavy buffet dinner.

5 Later, enjoy a sangria and Tamarindo’s characteristic convivial vibe at the beachfront bar TABÚ.

Day 2

1 Take this day to learn how to surf or improve your preexisting surf skills. If you’re a beginner or intermediate surfer, sign up for a morning surf lesson with Iguana Surf; after the lesson, rent a surfboard through the surf school and spend the rest of the morning and most of the afternoon at Playa Tamarindo’s novice-friendly beach break, practicing what you learned. If you’re an advanced-level surfer, take an unforgettable surf tour led by Witch’s Rock Surf Camp to the legendary surf sites Witch’s Rock and Ollie’s Point.

2 Provided you’re not out of town on a surf tour (a packed lunch would be required in that case), break for a flavorful Costa Rican lunch at Soda Buffet El Estero, across the street from the north end of the beach. If you’d prefer a more sophisticated dining experience, eat at the waterfront Pangas Beach Club, also at the north end of the beach, and indulge in the prime beef.

3 Late in the afternoon, hang out where lots of surfers do, by the water’s edge at El Vaquero Pub. Order a pint of the bar’s own craft beer and toast the day’s epic surf while watching a glorious sunset.

4 For dinner, treat yourself to superb food and a pleasant atmosphere—and possibly a martini—at the Dragonfly Bar & Grill.

5 Later, get drinks and curb late-night munchies with tapas at the Lizard Lounge.

A NORTHERN PACIFIC COAST ROAD TRIP

The stretch of the northern Pacific coast between Tamarindo and Playas del Coco contains the region’s must-see beaches. With extra time to spend, visit the top three beaches on a self-guided coastal road trip taken from any one of the region’s beach towns, including Tamarindo, Playa Grande, Brasilito, Playa Flamingo, Surfside, Potrero, Las Catalinas, Playas del Coco, and Playa Hermosa. For information about this road trip, see the Beach-Hopping in Guanacaste section on click here.

Liberia and Vicinity

Home to the Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós, also known as the Guanacaste Airport, Liberia marks the start and end of many travelers’ journeys to Costa Rica. Although Liberia is rarely visited as a destination in itself, it serves as a springboard to grand adventure and immersive nature experiences that take place elsewhere in the region, at Parque Nacional Palo Verde, Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja, and Parque Nacional Santa Rosa, among other attractions; most experiences are less than an hour’s drive from the city. Other visitors briefly pass through Liberia as they travel between destinations in the northern inland area, namely La Fortuna and Monteverde, and Guanacaste’s famous beaches.

LIBERIA

The city of Liberia is both the capital of Guanacaste and a symbol of Costa Rica’s sabanero (cowboy) soul. Despite urbanization, cattle ranching remains the livelihood of many residents, and evidence of the city’s age and resilience is everywhere, from the small, plain, stark white Iglesia La Agonía (La Agonía Church; Avenida 1, 1.5 km/0.9 mi east of Hwy. 1), erected in the mid-1800s, to the numerous illustrations of colonial-era architecture and design (including corner houses with double sun doors, adobe construction, and whitewashed buildings) that landed Liberia the nickname La Ciudad Blanca (The White City).

Sights

TOP EXPERIENCE

Catarata Llanos del Cortés

Llanos del Cortés Waterfall; tel. 506/8777-3014; 8am-4pm daily; $8 adults, $4 ages 7-12

It’s amazing that the Catarata Llanos del Cortés isn’t more sought after. The beautiful waterfall is only a half-hour drive from Liberia, and you don’t need to complete a difficult hike or have a 4WD vehicle to reach it.

A five-minute walk down a set of 50 concrete stairs is all that’s required to access the waterfall. You can picnic and relax on the flat sandy clearing in front of the cascade (it has sunny and shady spots), or swim in the large pool at its base. The waterfall isn’t one compact stream but rather a wide and gentle 25-m (82-ft) cascade that spans much of the rock face it tumbles over. Its power is dispersed across the wall, making for an enjoyable swim in relatively calm water. Swimming here is suitable for kids; there are plenty of shallow spaces for wading, the pool deepens gradually, and a lifeguard is on duty. Resist the urge to climb behind the spray or hike above the waterfall to its edge. Although locals regularly frequent both spaces, slippery rocks make the areas unsafe.

Restrooms and a free parking lot (a security guard here keeps watch over visitor vehicles) are just beyond the entrance, where the stairs to the waterfall’s base are found. The waterfall is best accessed from the northwest. From Liberia, take Highway 1 southeast for 20 km (12.4 mi) and turn right onto the unnamed pressed-gravel road near the pedestrian walkway that crosses over the highway. From the turnoff, it’s about 2 km (1.2 mi) to the entrance, a 10-minute drive. Make another right turn onto the road signed as the official entrance to the waterfall. If arriving from the southeast, a median prohibits left turns onto the unnamed dirt road from the highway. There is a break in the median just north of the pedestrian walkway where you can turn around and backtrack toward the dirt road.

White-Water Rafting

Tenorio Adventure Company

Hwy. 1 at Río Corobicí, 42 km (26 mi) southwest of Liberia; tel. 506/2668-8203; www.tenorioadventurecompany.com; 8am-10pm daily

The Class III and IV section of Río Tenorio offers the best white-water in Guanacaste and thrills rafters with a 3.5-m (11.5-ft) drop over Cascabel Falls. If you’re an adrenaline-hungry thrill-seeker, sign up for the Tenorio River Rafting Tour (9am daily; 2.5-3 hours; $105 pp; min. age 8) led by Tenorio Adventure Company. The outfitter can pick you up in Liberia or in beach towns along the northern Pacific coast, or you can save some money by meeting the company at its rafting tour headquarters along Highway 1, about a half-hour outside of Liberia.

Safari Float Tours

Tenorio Adventure Company

Hwy. 1 at Río Corobicí, 42 km (26 mi) southwest of Liberia; tel. 506/2668-8203; www.tenorioadventurecompany.com; 8am-10pm daily

As an alternative to white-water rafting, peaceful floats down a calm section of Río Tenorio provide tamer river experiences in the region. Passing through part of Guanacaste’s dry forest, the Tenorio Adventure Company’s Tenorio River Safari Float Tour (9am daily; 2-2.5 hours; $65 pp; min. age 2) showcases the ecosystem’s scenery and provides opportunities to spot some of its resident wildlife. There’s a good chance you’ll see a variety of birds, including tall herons and tiny kingfishers, plus iguanas, otters, and crocodiles, on this slow-moving river trip, which is more of a nature excursion than an adventure tour.

Shopping

Plaza Santa Rosa

Hwy. 1 and Hwy. 21; tel. 506/2665-7079; 8am-10pm daily

Virtually anything you might need can be purchased at Plaza Santa Rosa. This one-floor shopping center occupies the southern corner of the region’s main intersection, making it a convenient place to shop. The plaza sells cell phone SIM cards, beachwear, shoes, beauty products, and more.

El Jardín

Hwy. 21, 16.5 km (10.2 mi) west of Hwy. 1; tel. 506/2215-1439; www.eljardin.co.cr; 6am-8pm daily

The best souvenir shopping in Liberia is on the outskirts of town. You’ll find an assortment of souvenirs, from Indigenous artwork and hand-carved wood products to decorative signs and all kinds of trinkets, at El Jardín, a large store at the side of Highway 21. Colorful artwork and sculptures that depict traditional Costa Rican scenes and wildlife decorate the entrance to the touristy shop.

Food

S El Jardín

Hwy. 21, 16.5 km (10.2 mi) west of Hwy. 1; tel. 506/2215-1439; www.eljardin.co.cr; 6am-8pm daily; price varies by item selection

For a fast, generous plateful of Costa Rican food, dine at El Jardín. This informal cafeteria, where you can order whatever you’re in the mood for from a buffet with rice, beans, vegetables, meats, salads, and other items, makes a great pitstop if you’re merely passing through Liberia; it’s just off the highway, is easy to pop into, and has ample parking and clean bathrooms. The cafeteria is adjacent to a large souvenir store in a plaza owned by El Jardín, which also has a mini market and an ice cream shop; head into either one if all you’re hungry for is a snack.

Cielito Lindo

Avenida 11, between Calle 1 and Calle 3; tel. 506/6207-7778; 11am-9pm Tues.-Sun.; $5-12

Step into the Mexican restaurant Cielito Lindo and you’ll instantly be transported to Mexico. Traditional papel picado (punched paper) banners and piñatas hang from the ceiling, photos of famous Mexican figures are tacked to the walls, and colorful Mexican textiles drape over the tables. But perhaps best of all is the authentic Mexican food. The enchiladas, quesadillas, nachos, and Aztec soup are all delicious, but my favorite are the tacos. They’re served Mexican-style (folded in a half-moon shape and filled with toppings) as opposed to Costa Rican-style (rolled, with some of the toppings stacked on top).

El Patio

Calle 9 at Avenida 3; tel. 506/4034-6245; 11:30am-3pm and 6pm-9pm Mon.-Sat.; $7.50-10.50

A lovely place to enjoy lunch or dinner in the heart of downtown Liberia is El Patio. Not surprisingly, the meals here are served on the restaurant’s patio, where shaded areas invite you to dine comfortably out of the sun, and in the evening, the soft glow of strung lights creates a relaxed space to unwind. Most impressive is the assortment of appetizers and entrées that span American classics and international specialty foods. This is where you can find mozzarella sticks and a pulled pork sandwich, a plateful of fish-and-chips, a salad with chicken tempura, and other foods that are seldom found at restaurants in Costa Rica.

Posada Real Café

formerly Café Liberia; Calle Central, between Avenida 2 and Avenida 4; tel. 506/2665-0219; www.posadarealcafe.com; 8am-9pm Mon.-Sat.; $9-17

The Posada Real Café isn’t strictly a vegan or vegetarian restaurant, but it does serve a handful of plant-based meals, as well as gluten-free meals. Choose from a vegetarian sandwich, flatbread, burger, bowl, or casado while dining inside one of the city’s oldest and most exquisite homes. The neoclassical-style Casa Zuñiga Clachar is an architectural and cultural artifact that’s furnished to replicate the building’s original era. Even if you’re not hungry for a full meal, drop by the café for a coffee or a crepe and a look at the antique furniture and art.

Marisquería Sabor Porteño

Calle 2 at Avenida 8; tel. 506/2665-6851; noon-3pm and 6pm-8:30pm Tues.-Sun.; $14-24

The finest seafood in Liberia is served at the down-to-earth Marisquería Sabor Porteño. If you want fish, choose from sea bass, tuna, or salmon prepared one of 13 ways, each with a different sauce. Seafood selections span octopus, squid, mussels, lobster, shrimp, and 18 variations of ceviche. Beef, chicken, rice, and pasta dishes also appear on the establishment’s extensive menu, but they’re not the main reason to go. Groups of locals gather at the restaurant, known for its casual, social, and family-friendly vibe.

Bars and Nightlife

Mariajuana Restobar

Plaza Santa Rosa, Hwy. 1 and Hwy. 21; tel. 506/2665-7217; 11:30am-9:30pm Sun.-Wed., 7:30am-11:30pm Thurs.-Sat.

Even though its cheeky-sounding name may cause you to do a double take, my favorite place to grab drinks in Liberia is Mariajuana Restobar. In a shopping complex at the entrance to the city, this spot is easy to access, and parking is a breeze. I particularly love the casual terrace seating and extensive drink menu. Grab a mojito, piña colada, or fruit daiquiri if you’re the cocktail type, or try the province’s own Guanaca beer, a honey blond ale. There’s live music on Friday-Saturday nights. Cover ($6-8) is sometimes charged when big-name performers play.

Accommodations

Hotel Villa Hermosa

Avenida 25, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) north of Plaza Santa Rosa; tel. 506/2665-1602; $52 s, $76 d

Set in a residential neighborhood in downtown Liberia, conveniently within walking distance of a supermarket and a few restaurants, this family-run motel-style property is the city’s best economical lodging. It has basic rooms (for 1-4 people) with air-conditioning, a television, a private bathroom, and a terrace. Don’t expect refinement but do enjoy the warm service and complimentary breakfast.

Hampton by Hilton

Hwy. 21, 10 km (6.2 mi) west of Hwy. 1; tel. 506/2210-1000; www.hilton.com; $162 s/d

I rarely recommend chain hotels, but the lack of safe and clean accommodations in Liberia makes the Hampton by Hilton the best place to stay. The five-story, modern, executive-style hotel also provides great value; a complimentary breakfast and shuttle service between the hotel and the Guanacaste Airport, which is across the street, is included in the nightly rate, as is free parking, Wi-Fi, and access to the on-site pool. If you choose to stay at this hotel, ensure your reservation is for the Hampton by Hilton property in Liberia; confusingly, there is a Hampton by Hilton property across the street from the Juan Santamaría International Airport, near San José, which is more than 200 km (124 mi) away!

Information and Services

The city’s hospital is Hospital Enrique Baltodano Briceño (Avenida 9, between Calle 13 and Calle 17; tel. 506/2690-2300; 24 hours daily). Pharmacies are scattered throughout the downtown core; many are on Avenida Central. The easiest pharmacy to access is Farmacia Sucre (Centro Comercial Santa Rosa, Hwy. 1 and Hwy. 21; tel. 506/2665-7065; 8am-8pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-7pm Sat., 9am-6pm Sun.). The police station (Hwy. 1, 1 km/0.6 mi north of Hwy. 21; tel. 506/2665-0609; 24 hours daily) is just north of the city.

Liberia has several supermarkets and banks in the downtown core. The plaza at Highway 1 and Highway 21 houses a Banco de Costa Rica (Centro Comercial Santa Rosa; tel. 506/2211-1111; 8am-6pm daily) with an ATM (5am-midnight daily).

You can wash your clothes at Lavandería Calle Real (Calle Central, between Avenida 4 and Avenida 6; tel. 506/2665-4010; 8am-7pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-noon Sat.). Send mail from the post office (tel. 506/2666-1649; 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-noon Sat.) at Avenida 3 and Calle 8.

There are a few gas stations in Liberia’s center as well as along Highway 1 south of the city. The easiest one to access is at Highway 1 and Highway 21.

Getting There

Air

The Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós/Guanacaste Airport (LIR) is a 10-km (6.2-mi), 10-minute drive west of Liberia’s main intersection, where Highway 1 and Highway 21 meet. SANSA Airlines (tel. 506/2290-4100; www.flysansa.com) offers direct flights to Liberia from San José, Tamarindo, Nosara, and Cóbano (services destinations in the southern half of the Nicoya Peninsula).

Car

From downtown San José, Liberia is a 220-km (136-mi), 3.5-hour drive northwest on Highway 1. The roads into the city are paved and easy to drive.

Bus

Public buses travel to Liberia from San José, Puntarenas, Cañas, and Peñas Blancas. You can also catch a bus to Liberia from a variety of beach towns in Guanacaste, including Playas del Coco, Playa Flamingo, and Tamarindo. Depending on where your trip began, you’ll be dropped off at one of two regional bus stations in Liberia, either on Avenida 5 between Calle 10 and Calle 12, or two blocks north at Avenida 7 and Calle 12.

Organized Tour

White-water rafting tours, safari float tours, and hiking tours to Río Celeste at Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio can be arranged with Tenorio Adventure Company (tel. 506/2668-8203; www.tenorioadventurecompany.com) to include a pickup from your hotel in La Fortuna, Monteverde, or beach towns on the northern Pacific coast. These tours speed through Liberia on their way to other areas, so the Tenorio Adventure Company can provide drop-offs directly in Liberia on special request.

Private Transfer Service

There is no shortage of private transfer service providers that can pick you up at destinations around the country and bring you to Liberia, especially if you’re headed to the airport. The friendly folks at Ecotrans Costa Rica (tel. 506/2654-5151; www.ecotranscostarica.com) stand out from the rest: They’re always on time, they offer a large fleet of reliable vehicles with complimentary Wi-Fi, their rates are below average for the region, and they’re one of Guanacaste’s best-known transportation providers. From San José, the cost to travel to Liberia via a private transfer service is approximately $250.

Shared Shuttle Service

Ecotrans Costa Rica ($25-30 pp, depending on the route) runs an inexpensive shuttle to Liberia from beach towns on the northern Pacific coast. All shuttles offer drop-offs at Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós (Guanacaste Airport); some, time permitting, can provide drop-offs at Liberia hotels.

Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com) can shuttle you to Liberia from other destinations, including San José, La Fortuna, Monteverde, Rincón de la Vieja, and beach towns on the Nicoya Peninsula. One-way services cost about $50 pp from San José.

Getting Around

The many one-way streets in downtown Liberia make driving here a nuisance. In general, every other calle (street) and avenida (avenue) flows in the same direction. Keep your eyes open for road signs that note una vía (one-way) or una vía adelante (one-way up ahead).

PARQUE NACIONAL PALO VERDE

Palo Verde National Park; 45 km (28 mi) southeast of Liberia; tel. 506/2200-5414; 8am-4pm daily; $12 adults, $5 ages 2-12, cash only

Smack-dab in the middle of the country’s driest province, Parque Nacional Palo Verde is a protected area of over 45,000 acres. It’s one of the best places in the country to spot waterfowl and other creatures that wander through waterlogged marshes, mangroves, and swamps.

Spillover from river flooding during part of the year transforms the area’s tropical dry forest into wetlands. Resident bird species turn out in abundance May-December as the dry forest blooms. January-April, as the water recedes, the park welcomes flocks of annual migratory birds, as well as avid birders. Other notable animals in the park include crocodiles, peccaries, monkeys, and bats.

The entrance to the park (where the admission fee is paid) is marked by a small signed booth. The largest development within the park is the biological station overseen by the Organization for Tropical Studies (OTS; 7 km/4.3 mi southwest of the park entrance; tel. 506/2661-4717; www.tropicalstudies.org). You can tour the park on foot with one of the organization’s representatives as part of a regular guided walk (8am and 3pm daily; 2 hours; $34 adults, $23 ages 5-12) or else seize the rare opportunity to explore the protected land after dark during the Nocturnal Wildlife Walk (7pm daily; 2 hours; $56 adults, $35 ages 5-12), but to truly immerse yourself in the park’s enchanting wetlands, take a trip down the Río Tempisque in a pontoon boat. Arranged through OTS, boat tours depart from the park’s dock, 3.5 km (2.2 mi) west of the biological station.

Boat Tours

Boat captains pilot the unnarrated boat tours (10:30am daily; 2 hours; $64 adults, $40 ages 5-12) offered by OTS on Río Tempisque. Hiring a tour guide is strongly advised to help you correctly identify and understand the importance of the park’s sights, including its 15 different habitats and the many kinds of wildlife.

Luckily, nearly every Guanacaste and Nicoya Peninsula tour operator and agency runs guided tours of Río Tempisque. Each tour provides a similar experience: A knowledgeable tour guide discusses the flora and fauna encountered during a quiet and gentle float down a slow-moving river. Tours depart from popular coastal communities daily. Some are full-day tours that combine the boat trip on Río Tempisque with a visit to Cataratas Llanos del Cortés, a Liberia city tour, or both. Round-trip transportation is almost always included; tour prices vary by departure location but average $100-130 pp.

Palo Verde Boat Tours

Ortega center; tel. 506/8841-8943; www.paloverdeboattours.com

If you have a rental vehicle, you can save money by driving yourself to Río Tempisque and joining a local tour. Palo Verde Boat Tours provides a guided boat tour (8am, 9am, 11am, and 1pm daily; 1.5 hours; $60 adults, $45 ages 6-11) by way of the community of Ortega. This family-run tour outfit knows the area exceptionally well and operates safe and well-organized boat trips.

Allot extra time before or after the tour experience to visit the hacienda at El Viejo Wetlands (4 km/2.5 mi north of Ortega; tel. 506/2296-0966; www.elviejowetlands.com; 8am-5pm daily; free). A 10-minute drive up the road from the tour operator’s office, the worn yet well-preserved house pays homage to the country’s heritage as far back as the 1800s. The hacienda also functions as a restaurant serving authentic Costa Rican cuisine ($6-13), as well as a rum distillery where 90-minute guided tours (9am, 11am, 1pm, and 3pm daily; $64.50 pp) provide a peek at how rum is made. Lunch at the hacienda is included with the rum tour.

Bird-Watching

Bird-watching is the park’s foremost draw, so much so that it hosts the annual Festival de Aves (Bird Festival; tel. 506/8871-3401) around February or March each year.

Anhingas, storks, cormorants, ibis, spoonbills, and herons are only a few of the species of great interest, and many can be spotted at the park’s 5.5-acre Isla Pájaros (Pájaros Island), a significant nesting site for waterbird colonies. Not all boat tours visit the island, so check with your chosen outfitter about whether it’s included on your preferred trip. The volume of birds that frequent the island (pájaro means “bird”) makes it one of the best areas in the park for bird-watching, especially at the end of the rainy season, when upward of 3,000 birds nest on the island. Though you cannot walk on the island, boats can get you close enough to see several bird species at close range.

Getting There

The only official and direct route to Palo Verde is from the north, via the unpaved but drivable Road 922. A 4WD vehicle is recommended but not required.

Unofficial park access is possible from the south by way of the community of Puerto Humo. With this more complicated option, you’ll need to hire a boat at the dock in Puerto Humo to cross Río Tempisque, then walk approximately 3.5 km (2.2 mi) inland to the OTS biological station.

A host of Guanacaste and Nicoya Peninsula tour operators will happily shuttle you to and from the park as part of an organized day tour. The excursion is one of the most popular guided tour offerings in the western half of the country. Tour prices vary by departure location but average $100-130 pp.

PARQUE NACIONAL RINCÓN DE LA VIEJA

Rincón de la Vieja National Park; 25 km (15.5 mi) northeast of Liberia; tel. 506/2666-5051; www.sinac.go.cr; $15 adults, $5 ages 2-12

The Guanacaste region’s most visited inland destination is the forested Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja. Although the park has over 300 species of birds and other kinds of wildlife, its main attractions are bubbling mud pots, billowing steam vents, natural hot springs, and refreshing waterfalls. A variety of well-traveled hiking trails and manageable road access add to the park’s appeal.

The 40,000-acre park has two sectors: the Pailas Sector (25.5 km/15.8 mi northeast of Liberia; 8am-3pm Tues.-Sun.), on the park’s southwestern side, and the Santa María Sector (23 km/14.3 mi northeast of Liberia; 8am-3:30pm Thurs.-Mon.), on the park’s southeastern side. Ranger stations mark the entrance to each. You’re welcome to explore either sector without a guide. If you would prefer one, most adventure parks in the vicinity run guided tours to the Pailas Sector daily, as do most tour operators and agencies that operate elsewhere in Guanacaste.

Reservations are required to visit the park and must be made through the website of the Sistema Nacional de Áreas de Conservación (National System of Conservation Areas, SINAC; www.sinac.go.cr).

Sights

Volcán Rincón de la Vieja

The mammoth 15-km-wide (9.3-mi) Volcán Rincón de la Vieja (Rincón de la Vieja Volcano) dominates the large park. Just shy of 2,000 m (6,562 ft) high, the dormant Santa María crater is the park’s highest peak. At least eight other craters (including the Von Seebach crater and the Rincón crater) and Lago Los Jilgueros (Jilgueros Lake) hide in the volcano’s girth. Over 30 rivers flow on its slopes, which are a mosaic of premontane wet forest, dry forest, and cloud forest.

Hiking

Sendero Las Pailas

Las Pailas Trail; 3.5-km (2.2-mi) loop; 1.5 hours; easy-moderate

The most popular trail in the park is the Pailas Sector’s 3.5-km (2.2-mi) Sendero Las Pailas. It is also the easiest trail to trek, as it is primarily flat; the first section is even wheelchair accessible. As you complete the loop, you’ll encounter piping-hot steam vents and their sulfuric stench, a spurting mini volcano known as Volcancito (Little Volcano), bubbling mud pots, and small, boiling hot springs (swimming is not permitted in these). All serve as obvious reminders that although visits to the park are considered safe, the attraction is home to an active volcano. For your own safety, stick to the park’s trails, obey signage, and stay behind trail guardrails.

Sendero Catarata La Cangreja

La Cangreja Waterfall Trail; 5 km (3.1-mi) one-way; 2.5 hours; moderate

Also within the Pailas Sector, the out-and-back Sendero Catarata La Cangreja leads to the blue-tinged Catarata La Cangreja (La Cangreja Waterfall).

Two km (1.2 mi) into this trail from its starting point just beyond the Las Pailas entrance, an unnamed side trail (2 km/1.2 mi one-way; 1 hour; moderate) shoots off to the right and leads to the Catarata Escondida (Escondida Waterfall). Unless you have much of the day open to spend in the park, choose to visit only one of the waterfalls. You’ll need to hike on an incline, withstand the region’s beating heat, and make your way over and under several obstacles (like small rivers and giant tree branches) regardless of which route you choose. In either case, you’ll earn the same reward: views of a beautiful clear waterfall. Swimming in the waterfalls’ pools is prohibited.

Sendero Aguas Termales

Aguas Termales Trail; 2.7 km (1.7 mi) one-way; 1 hour; easy-moderate

The Santa María Sector has fewer attractions but less frequented trails that allow for quieter, more private-feeling exploration of the region’s dry forest. The main trail is the linear Sendero Aguas Termales; it begins just beyond the ranger station, travels east-west through the sector, and ends at the junction of a cold-water stream and hot springs. Roughly 1 km (0.6 mi) into the main trail, a few easy side trails, including the 100-m (328-ft) Sendero Bosque Encantado (Bosque Encantado Trail) and the 300-m (328-yd) Sendero Morpho (Morpho Trail), branch off to the south and lead to small waterfalls.

Sendero Pailas de Agua Fría

Pailas de Agua Fría Trail; 1 km (0.6 mi) one-way; 30 minutes; moderate

Jutting off Sendero Aguas Termales to the north is the more challenging Sendero Pailas de Agua Fría, which ends at a site with bubbling cold-water pots that exhibit some of the volcanic activity in the sector.

Additional trails lead to the volcano’s craters. Due to increases in volcanic activity, the crater trails are closed indefinitely.

Getting There

From downtown Liberia, it’s a 25-km (15.5-mi), 45-minute drive to the Pailas Sector. Take Highway 1 north for 5.5 km (3.4 mi) and turn right at the sign for the park and the community of Curubande. Continue traveling east for 20 km (12.4 mi). The route passes through private property at Hacienda Guachipelín; expect to pay $1.50-2 for passage through the private property. The road ends at the ranger station. A 4WD vehicle is not required.

To get to the Santa María Sector from downtown Liberia, it’s a 23-km (14.3-mi), one-hour drive. Take Road 198 (Avenida 1 in Liberia center) 20 km (12.4 mi) east. Turn left at the sign for the park and drive to the community of Colonia Blanca. After 1 km (0.6 mi), turn left again, and continue driving for 2 km (1.2 mi) until you reach the ranger station. Although a 4WD vehicle is not required, it is recommended.

If you’re headed to the Pailas Sector, you can reserve a seat on the shared shuttle service between Liberia and the Pailas Sector ranger station (1 hour; $30 pp), provided by Offitours Adventures (tel. 506/8899-8149; www.offitours.com). The round-trip departs from Liberia at 7am daily and leaves the park around 4pm daily. Have the driver confirm the exact return pickup time. Excluded from the shuttle fare is a fee ($1.50 pp) to access the park via a private road, which should be paid in cash during the transfer, along with the park entrance fee. There is no shuttle service to the Santa María Sector.

PARQUE NACIONAL SANTA ROSA

Santa Rosa National Park; Road 913, 45 km (28 mi) northwest of Liberia; tel. 506/2666-5051; www.acguanacaste.ac.cr; Santa Rosa Sector 8am-3:30pm Wed.-Mon., Murciélago Sector 8am-4pm daily, last entry 2pm; $15 adults, $5 ages 2-12

Although Parque Nacional Santa Rosa isn’t one of the country’s top national parks, it has a few unique points of interest. If you’re drawn to history, you’ll love the on-site museum, where you can learn about historic events that took place here. If you’re a surfer or scuba diver, you simply cannot miss the renowned surf and dive sites a few kilometers offshore. If you’re a die-hard off-roader, the bumpy and rugged routes that wind throughout the park and offer what locals call “Tico massages” will put a smile on your face. Additionally, this is one of Costa Rica’s few national parks with a paved and wheelchair-accessible trail.

The park marks the spot where invaders, under the command of American William Walker, were confronted and defeated by Costa Rica’s militia in 1856. Long after the triumph of the Batalla de Santa Rosa (Battle of Santa Rosa) and a couple of other nearby conflicts, the area was designated as one of Costa Rica’s first national parks.

There are three sectors in the park. The park’s largest and most popular area is the Santa Rosa Sector. A ranger station marks its entrance, beyond which you’ll encounter nearly everything the park has to offer. The remote, less-visited Murciélago Sector (Road 937) provides little apart from a few desolate beaches. The entrance to Murciélago is unattended (meaning help will not be close by if you need it), and the roads to reach its beaches are long, unfrequented, treacherous, and often impassable during rainy periods. Self-guided exploration of both sectors is allowed; guided and self-guided visits require a reservation. One can be made through the website of the Área de Conservación Guanacaste (Guanacaste Conservation Area; www.acguanacaste.ac.cr), the organization that oversees Parque Nacional Santa Rosa and other protected areas in the region. Sandwiched between the Santa Rosa Sector and the Murciélago Sector is the Santa Elena Sector, which is closed to the public.

Sights

Museo Histórico Casona de Santa Rosa

Santa Rosa Casona Historical Museum; 8am-11:30am and 1pm-3:30pm Wed.-Mon.; free with park admission

The park’s greatest attraction and the gem of the Santa Rosa Sector is the Museo Histórico Casona de Santa Rosa, referred to by most locals as La Casona. Though the museum is small, it displays well-preserved wartime relics, including saddlery and traditional clothing. The modern-day building that houses the museum is a replica of the original, which burned to the ground in the early 2000s.

Museo Histórico Casona de Santa Rosa

Out back, plaques list the names of the Costa Rican troops who fought in the Batalla de Santa Rosa, forming the Monumento a los Héroes (Monument to the Heroes). Don’t miss the viewpoint just beyond the monument; it has a distant vista of the volcano-speckled Cordillera de Guanacaste.

Hiking

The best area for exploring the park’s tropical dry forest is the Santa Rosa Sector. The Murciélago Sector is difficult to access, and its beaches aren’t especially noteworthy.

Sendero Indio Desnudo

Indio Desnudo Trail; 750 m (820 yd) one-way; 10 minutes; easy

The short, paved, wheelchair-accessible Sendero Indio Desnudo is the Santa Rosa Sector’s only fully developed path. It departs from the sector’s entrance just beyond the parking lot and offers little to see apart from the peeling bark of the trail’s namesake naked Indian tree, birds, and the occasional anteater.

The remainder of the Santa Rosa Sector is in poor condition, requires a durable 4WD vehicle to access, and is best avoided May-November, when heavy rainfall can cause the area’s rocky rutted roads to become impassable. If you’re up for a challenge, you can drive through the park to the Sendero Los Patos (Los Patos Trail) or the Sendero Valle Naranjo (Valle Naranjo Trail) and hike to either path’s viewpoint, or else continue in your vehicle toward the coast (past three other trails), where you’ll find a stretch of sand at Playa Naranjo.

S Diving with Bull Sharks

Dives in the Bahía Murciélago (Bat Bay), specifically around the Islas Murciélago (Bat Islands) are some of the country’s best. The experience is well worth the trip from any corner of Guanacaste if you are an advanced diver who is not put off by rough dive conditions. Visibility typically tops out at 15 m (49 ft), dive depths stretch to 30 m (98 ft), and water temperatures average around 28°C (82°F), dropping to 18°C (65°F) at the thermocline. Collectively, the dive sites at Islas Murciélago are referred to as “The Bats.”

You’re likely to see sea turtles, rays, and many varieties of fish in the dive site’s vast waters, where humpback whales have been known to make an appearance. But none of those sightings top the rush of sharing the open water with stocky bull sharks. These sharks can be spotted in the area, especially from the end of May to the beginning of November, when the water is calmest and visibility is optimal.

Nearly all dive operators that run trips to the bay from towns along Guanacaste’s coast are familiar with the best dive spots. If in doubt, request a trip to Black Rock, a spot rampant with rays, or Big Scare, where you’re most likely to see bull sharks. Though bull sharks have a reputation for being aggressive, you’d never know it from watching the species gracefully glide through the water. There have been very few attacks on humans by any species of shark in Costa Rica, but it’s important to take every safety precaution and only go out with a reputable dive operator.

S Rustic Ranches and Adventure Parks

Spread out on country back roads and carved into the widespread slopes of Volcán Rincón de la Vieja are several remote properties that showcase the rural side of Guanacaste. These arcadian ranches and small adventure parks, mostly on the southwest side of the volcano, feature rustic charm and warm service as well as a chance to take horseback rides through the dry forest, hike around Volcán Rincón de la Vieja, soak in volcano-fed hot springs, and experience Costa Rica’s peaceful backcountry. Some places also offer their guests the opportunity to participate in traditional farm activities. Each property offers its own take on the pastoral experience. Tour offerings and prices vary by location.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Rincón de la Vieja’s ranches welcome both day visitors and overnight guests. While it’s possible to spend just a day at one of these properties and experience the highlights, it’s best to give yourself at least two days in the area. Spend one day participating in the on-site activities and the second day hiking through Parque Nacional Volcán Rincón de la Vieja.

Adventure parks around Rincón de la Vieja don’t provide overnight accommodations, but they make great day-trip destinations from Liberia or beach towns along the northern Pacific coast. If you choose to visit an adventure park, you’ll need only one day in the Rincón de la Vieja area.

To help maximize your time, most properties offer a one-day tour option that combines multiple on-site activities and lunch. Reservations are usually required. These tours typically begin around 8am and end before sundown. If you plan to drive yourself to the property from elsewhere in the region, plan for an early-morning departure and a late-evening return. If you do not have a rental vehicle, some properties can pick you up from destinations around Guanacaste at an extra cost. Most tours are family-friendly, but some activities have minimum age limits. Have the property confirm their policies in advance.

Of the ranches and adventure parks around Rincón de la Vieja, the following properties provide the best one-day tour experiences.

HACIENDA GUACHIPELÍN

21.5 km (13.3 mi) northeast of Liberia; tel. 506/2690-2900; www.guachipelin.com; prices vary by activity; rooms $175 s/d

Hacienda Guachipelín is an authentic rustic ranch spread over 3,400 acres of farmland. The sustainable property has 64 clean cozy rooms for overnight guests, a restaurant that serves food grown or raised on-site, and a prime location within 5 km (3.1 mi) of the national park’s Pailas Sector.

It specializes in horseback riding; nine different horseback riding tours range from easy one-hour waterfall rides to full-day “cowboy for a day” experiences ($40-70 adults, $35-60 ages 4-12) that will have you riding around the ranch, saddling horses, herding cattle, and completing other chores in the corrals. Zip-lining, waterfall rappelling, mountain biking, river tubing, and hiking tours are also offered.

High-value one-day packages, including the Adventure Pass (8:30am daily; 8.5 hours; $115 adults, $105 ages 4-12) and the Nature Pass (8:30am and 11:30am Tues.-Sun.; 5 hours; $89 adults, $69 ages 4-12), combine a variety of these activities and include access to the off-site Río Negro Hot Springs (2.5 km/1.5 mi southeast of Hacienda Guachipelín; 9am-4pm daily; 1.5-hour visitors pass $30 adults, $25 ages 4-12, included for hotel guests), a collection of 10 small hot springs pools hidden in remote forest at the edge of Río Negro. There’s also a mud bath where you can paint yourself from head to toe with volcanic clay.

BUENA VISTA DEL RINCÓN

29.5 km (18.3 mi) northeast of Liberia; tel. 506/8922-9339; www.buenavistadelrincon.com; prices vary by activity; rooms $116 s, $142 d

Like Hacienda Guachipelín, Buena Vista del Rincón is a full-service ranch and hotel in one. Its most popular offering is the jam-packed Eco-Adventure Park Day Pass (7:30am daily; 9 hours; $95 adults, $80 ages 3-6; min. age 3), a full-day experience that combines zip-lining, horseback riding, hiking, a ride on a 425-m (465-yd) waterslide in the rainforest, and time spent at Buena Vista del Rincón’s on-site hot springs. For an additional fee ($10 adults, $7 ages 3-6) and an extra surge of adrenaline, you can add a Tarzan swing—a 45-m (148-ft) free fall in the forest—to the day pass.

Also available are several cultural tours (costs vary by activity) that showcase Guanacaste cooking techniques, coffee production, artisanal craft construction, and sustainable farming. The property has three restaurants, accommodations that feel like log cabins, and a mirador (lookout) that frames a spectacular unobstructed view of Guanacaste’s dry forest, the Pacific Ocean, and distant Nicaragua.

VANDARÁ

23.5 km (14.6 mi) northeast of Liberia; tel. 506/4081-5005; www.vandaracostarica.com; 9am-4pm daily; prices vary by activity

Vandará is a small-scale adventure park that warrants a road trip from anywhere in Guanacaste. Its forest-wrapped hot springs are the reason to go, but the wet bar, jetted tub, restaurant, and mud bath are appreciated extras. If you only want to lounge around the hot springs and mud bath, all you need is the Nature Pass ($65 adults, $52 ages 5-10).

Alternatively, the Explorer Pass ($95 adults, $75 ages 5-10; min. age 5) provides access to all of Vandará’s on-site offerings, including a zip-line tour, horseback riding tour, trapiche (sugarcane mill) tour, and 400-m (437-yd) waterslide.

There are no overnight accommodations at Vandará, so you’ll want to visit on a day trip from wherever you plan to stay in the region. From Liberia, the park is a mere half-hour drive north of the city.

Some diving companies require divers to perform a local dive with them on a day prior to diving at The Bats so they can evaluate your advanced-level diving skills. Be sure you give yourself enough time by the coast to make this extra dive in addition to the day trip to The Bats, if your chosen dive provider requires it.

Summer Salt Dive Center

Calle La Chorrera, 25 m (82 ft) northeast of Road 151, Playas del Coco; tel. 506/2670-0308; www.summer-salt.com; 7am-5pm daily

The Summer Salt Dive Center staff has plenty of experience with safe shark encounters—they know where sharks are commonly spotted, they maintain a safe distance, and they never provoke the animals. They operate dive excursions to the bay from Playas del Coco. Their Islas Murciélago dives (6am daily; 8 hours; $255 pp for 2-3 tanks) include equipment rental and the entrance fee to Parque Nacional Santa Rosa.

Rich Coast Diving

Road 151, 400 m (0.25 mi) south of the beach at Playas del Coco; tel. 506/2670-0176; www.richcoastdiving.com; 7am-5pm daily

Rich Coast Diving is another reputable dive operator that departs from Playas del Coco. Its Islas Murciélago dives (6am daily; 8 hours; $182 pp for 2 tanks) include the park entrance fee but require separate equipment rental fees ($30 pp).

S Surfing at Witch’s Rock and Ollie’s Point

Two of the country’s top surf spots are found off the Parque Nacional Santa Rosa’s southwestern coast. Witch’s Rock, known as Roca Bruja in Spanish, is impossible to miss; it’s the giant rock (inhabited by a witch, legend suggests) just off the coast at Playa Naranjo (Naranjo Beach). The surf is stellar, thanks to the area’s sandbar, and it offers both left and right breaks. Advanced surfers from around the globe flock to this world-class Pacific Ocean spot every day of the year. The surf is not safe for beginner surfers.

Ollie’s Point is up the coast from Witch’s Rock, in front of Playa Potrero Grande (Potrero Grande Beach). Experienced surfers love this spot for its razor-cut walls and long rights, not to mention its appearance in the 1994 movie The Endless Summer II. Access to the sweet swell is permitted only by boat.

Eladio’s Place

Hwy. 1, 13 km (8.1 mi) north of Liberia; tel. 506/8706-8977; www.eladiosplacecr.com

If you don’t want to drive yourself to Playa Naranjo through the rough roads of the Santa Rosa Sector, hitch a ride with surfer and local guide Eladio Castro of Eladio’s Place. This fun and humorous guide, who has been surfing since the 1980s, runs guided excursions to Witch’s Rock in his trusty Land Cruiser and offers surf lessons to advanced surfers wanting to improve their skills at the famed locale, with an option to camp in the park overnight. Prices vary by excursion, lesson duration, and inclusions, but range $150-350 for two people.

Witch’s Rock Surf Camp

on Playa Tamarindo, 350 m (0.2 mi) north of Tamarindo Diria; tel. 506/2653-1238; www.witchsrocksurfcamp.com [URL inactive]

Surf trips to Witch’s Rock and Ollie’s Point depart daily from several Guanacaste beach towns, most notably Tamarindo, a two-hour boat ride from the surf sites. Witch’s Rock Surf Camp is a well-known, experienced, and professional tour operator, backed by a team that loves to surf. They’re particularly passionate about the breaks at Ollie’s Point and their namesake, Witch’s Rock.

On one of the Witch’s Rock and Ollie’s Point surf trips (5:30am; 12 hours; $150 pp), you can experience the thrill of both, when surf conditions permit. Trip scheduling depends on ocean conditions; have the tour operator confirm available surf dates. Equipment rental is not included. If you don’t plan to travel with your own board and gear, you can rent the equipment you need through Witch’s Rock Surf Camp or at a surf shop in one of the beach towns along the northern Pacific coast.

Reservations for surf trips are required. Because both breaks are within Parque Nacional Santa Rosa, you must pay the park entrance fee, even if you never step foot on land. Confirm with your chosen operator whether the fee is included in the cost of its excursions. If not, be prepared to pay it in cash on arrival.

Getting There

From Liberia, it’s a 45-km (28-mi), 40-minute drive north on Highway 1 and southwest on Road 913 to get to the entrance to the Santa Rosa Sector.

To get to the Murciélago Sector from Liberia, it’s a 60-km (37-mi), 70-minute drive north on Highway 1, west on Road 914, and southwest on Road 937.

Travel to either sector of the park by bus is difficult. A one-way taxi ride from downtown Liberia to the Santa Rosa Sector costs about $40. Park staff can assist in calling you a cab for the ride back to Liberia.

Playas del Coco and Vicinity

One of Guanacaste’s most visited destinations is the area surrounding Playas del Coco, a beach town about 35 km (22 mi) west of Liberia. Playas del Coco is the southernmost town in the vicinity and has a lot to offer, including shops, accommodations, adventure tour operators, restaurants, and bars. It’s popular with budget travelers because it’s possible to get by in town without much money or a rental vehicle. The name Playas del Coco translates to “Coconut Beaches,” but you’re more likely to hear it referred to in English as “Coco Beach” or “Coco” for short.

The area’s northernmost section contains Peninsula Papagayo, which draws families and couples to its luxurious resorts. Fittingly, between this resort district and its antithesis, Playas del Coco, is Playa Hermosa, a low-key beach town where you’ll find travelers of all ages and a selection of mid-range accommodations and restaurants.

PLAYAS DEL COCO

Playas del Coco is home to one of Guanacaste’s most prominent social scenes. (The other is in Tamarindo, a surf town in the southern half of the region.) The beach town serves as the area’s hub for adventure and nature tours, restaurants, bars, and shops. It’s also the commercial center for the stretch of coast that spans the communities of Playa Ocotal, Playa Hermosa, and Peninsula Papagayo.

Locals and the area’s large expat community coexist harmoniously here, and everyone strolls around informally in their beach attire. Road 151, the busy main drag, passes through town and ends at the beach. A plethora of open-air establishments fill both sides of the narrow, tree-lined, walkable street. You’ll find souvenir stores draped in hammocks and sarongs and sports bars stocked with guaro (sugarcane liquor). Despite the concentration of businesses, the vibe is surprisingly laid-back and cool.

Parallel to the beach and northeast of Playas del Coco’s main drag is a neighborhood known as La Chorrera. Some of the town’s top lodging and dining establishments are in this quiet, primarily residential neighborhood; generally, they provide a more refined, albeit still informal, experience than what is offered in the town center. A road known as Calle La Chorrera departs from Road 151 near the Zi Lounge and travels through the neighborhood until it reaches a dead end.

Sights

Paseo Peatonal Amor de Temporada

One of my favorite things to do in Playas del Coco is people-watch. There is usually plenty of action around the waterfront: beach volleyball matches, vendors selling copos (snow cone-inspired desserts topped with syrup and condensed milk) and other snacks from carts, boats coming and going from the shore. The best way to take it all in is by strolling along the Paseo Peatonal Amor de Temporada, a four-block concrete boardwalk that runs parallel to the beach.

Don’t miss the statue of Costa Rican crooner Héctor Zúñiga Rovira along the way. The boardwalk’s name, which literally means “seasonal love,” was taken from the title of his popular 1930s guitar ballad about unrequited love first encountered at Playas del Coco.

Diamante Eco Adventure Park

18 km (11.2 mi) southwest of Playas del Coco; tel. 506/2105-5200; www.diamanteecoadventurepark.com; 8:30am-4:30pm daily; prices vary by activity

The only theme park in the area is the Diamante Eco Adventure Park, just a 30-minute drive southwest of Playas del Coco. Stretching from a hilltop down to the beach, the park has a lot of impressive features, including well-organized and fun tours, friendly staff, and clean facilities. You can take a guided horseback ride along forest trails to the coast, watch a cultural presentation that demonstrates how coffee, chocolate, and sugarcane are made, or drive an ATV around the mountainous property. Other options are strolls through the botanical gardens or around the animal sanctuary (complete with a butterfly conservatory) with its rescued sloths, snakes, birds, crocodiles, frogs, and jungle cats.

Don’t leave without taking the park’s zip-line tour. Purchase the Superman Zip Line Pass (multiple times 9am-3:30pm daily; 1.5-2 hours; $78 adults, $63 ages 5-10; min. age 5) to do the canopy tour, my favorite in all of Guanacaste, thanks to the thrilling 1,360-m (4,462-ft) tandem Superman cable that allows you to soar toward the ocean with a friend at your side. The experience is rewarding year-round but particularly breathtaking July-December when the landscape is vibrantly green. The zip-line course ends with another adrenaline rush: a 30-m (98-ft) controlled free-fall experience called the “Quick Jump.” To do the zip-line tour together with other activities, choose the Adventure Pass (9am-11:30am daily; 5 hours; $118 adults, $95 ages 5-10; min. age 5). The pass also includes a traditional Costa Rican lunch and use of kayaks, snorkel gear, and paddleboards at a section of the coast referred to by the park as “Hammock Beach.”

Reservations are advised, but it’s possible to sign up for activities on the spot, availability permitting.

Beaches

Playa del Coco

The town of Playas del Coco encompasses the long brown-sand Playa del Coco (Coconut Beach or Coco Beach) that curves around Bahía Coco (Coconut Bay or Coco Bay). From town, you can walk along the beach 1 km (0.6 mi) in either direction in search of the perfect unoccupied sunbathing spot. Finding one can be a challenge mid-December-early February, through Easter week, during the first two weeks of July, and on weekends, as the coastal destination is a favorite among vacationing Ticos.

Playa Ocotal

Four km (2.5 mi) west of Playas del Coco, and separated from the town by a large headland, Playa Ocotal is a small gray-sand beach that is sometimes beautified by shallow tide pools and other times spoiled by stones and debris. It’s worth retreating to if Playa del Coco’s noise or crowds aren’t to your liking. The beach is a 10-minute drive from Playas del Coco on an unnamed but frequently traveled road. The road departs from Playas del Coco’s main drag on the north side of the office for Rich Coast Diving. If you’re more adventurous, you can walk or bike the route.

Fishing

Papagayo Sportfishing

tel. 506/8991-7289; www.costa-rica-fishingtrips.com

My preferred Guanacaste sportfishing operator is Papagayo Sportfishing. The owner, Genaro Mendez, has been fishing from Guanacaste since he was a kid, and he knows the coast inside and out. The company serves nearly the entire coast, from as far north as Peninsula Papagayo all the way down to Sámara on the Nicoya Peninsula, offering just about every kind of sportfishing experience. Options include inshore and offshore deep-sea tours, and half-day and full-day excursions. Trips run on one of the company’s 24-boat fleet, ranging from small motorboats to large yachts. Tour rates are $650-3,100 for groups of 1-10 people. Drinks, fruit, and the use of rods, reels, and bait are included; lunch is included during full-day excursions. The company offers complimentary pickups by boat at most beaches around Playas del Coco. An additional pickup fee may apply for transportation provided from other areas.

Snorkeling and Diving

Playas del Coco is a base for scuba excursions to several great Guanacaste dive sites. The most notable trips are up the coast to the marinelife haven of Bahía Murciélago, which hides the famed Islas Murciélago and batches of bull sharks, as well as trips down the coast to Islas Catalina. Both of these trips are for advanced divers. If you’re a beginner, there are upward of 20 less challenging dive spots just off the coast of Playas del Coco including Tortuga, a dive site with two small shipwrecks, tons of fish, eels, seahorses, eye-catching nudibranchs, and white-tip sharks.

In town, at least five independent dive operations have solid reputations. My personal favorites are the Summer Salt Dive Center and Rich Coast Diving. Both are accredited PADI organizations that not only abide by strict safety regulations during open-water excursions but are also licensed to provide instruction for both discovery and advanced courses as well as specialty certifications.

Summer Salt Dive Center

Calle La Chorrera, 25 m (82 ft) northeast of Road 151; tel. 506/2670-0308; www.summer-salt.com; 7am-5pm daily

Summer Salt runs a number of trips daily, including local daytime dives (8am daily; 4 hours; $125 pp for 2 tanks), Islas Catalina dives (7am daily; 7 hours; $195 pp for 3 tanks), and Islas Murciélago dives (6am daily; 8 hours; $255 pp for 2-3 tanks). The operator’s prices are some of the most expensive in town, but rates include equipment rentals.

Sportfishing on the Northern Pacific Coast

Prices for sportfishing excursions vary considerably and depend on a variety of factors, such as trip duration, boat type and size, group size, location (inshore or offshore), and optional inclusions. On average, charters will set you back $400 for a half-day inshore trip (for up to 3 people) to over $3,500 for a full-day offshore trip on a yacht (for up to 10). Expect gear and tackle to be included, although you’re welcome to bring your own.

Sportfishing excursions operated from a boat, a kayak, or on land, as well as underwater fishing activities, require the purchase of a fishing license. You can purchase a fishing license online ahead of time from the Instituto Costarricense de Pesca y Acuicultura (Costa Rican Institute of Fisheries and Aquaculture; www.incopesca.go.cr). Instructions in English are provided on the institute’s website, and credit cards are accepted.

To fish from a boat, license validity periods span 1-8 days ($15 pp), 30 days ($25 pp), or one year ($50 pp). To fish from a kayak or on land, you’ll need to pay $12 pp for a license that’s valid for one year. The cost to engage in underwater fishing activities is $50 pp, which buys a one-year license.

FISHING SEASONS

If your heart is set on baiting a specific species of fish along the northern Pacific coast, familiarize yourself with the area’s fishing seasons before you confirm your travel dates:

• sailfish: year-round; best May-August

• roosterfish: year-round; best May-October

• dorado (mahi-mahi): June-September

• snapper: June-October

• wahoo: August-September

• tuna: year-round; best July-October

• marlin: August-March

Rich Coast Diving

Road 151, 400 m (0.25 mi) south of the beach at Playa del Coco; tel. 506/2670-0176; www.richcoastdiving.com; 7am-5pm daily

As a certified DDI (Disabled Divers International) dive center, Rich Coast Diving can provide safe and fun diving experiences for travelers with disabilities. Reach out to them to discuss your needs and develop a customized tour. If you’re a dive instructor, consider taking Rich Coast Diving’s DDI training course to learn how you too can deliver in-water experiences to divers with varying physical abilities.

Rich Coast Diving has been a staple in Playas del Coco since 1993. It is my go-to dive operator for Guanacaste’s most challenging descents at Islas Murciélago (6am daily; 8 hours; $165-195 pp for 2-3 tanks). It also offers local daytime dives (8am daily; duration varies; $95 pp for 2 tanks, $125 pp for 3 tanks) and dives at Islas Catalina (6am daily; 7 hours; $135 pp for 2 tanks). Budget an extra $30 pp for equipment rentals.

Sailing

Sailing and catamaran tours are a great way to spoil yourself with a hint of luxury in Playas del Coco. Most tours provide relaxing glides along the coast, during which your only job is to sit back, relax, and watch dolphins frolic in the waves. Tours typically include a stop at a snorkeling spot; participation is optional. To add romance to your journey, opt for an afternoon sail and end with a spectacular sunset (weather permitting).

Marlin del Rey

Plaza Esmeralda, Tamarindo; tel. 506/2653-1212; www.marlindelrey.com; 7:30am-7pm daily

My preferred sailing outfitter in Guanacaste is Marlin del Rey. It is headquartered in Tamarindo but have boats moored in Bahía Coco and service the Playas del Coco area daily. Choose between the Morning Sailing Tour (8am daily; 4 hours; $75 adults, $65 ages 6-11) and the Afternoon Sailing Tour (1:30pm daily; 4 hours; $95 adults, $65 ages 6-11). Both tours provide an open bar and drop anchor in a calm bay where you can snorkel and swim while the crew prepares a complimentary meal.

Festivals and Events

Lively Playas del Coco rarely misses a party, so it’s no surprise that key dates in Costa Rica’s history are celebrated with vigor. On July 25, the Anexión de Guanacaste (Annexation of Guanacaste) is typically marked with a parade down the Paseo Peatonal Amor de Temporada. On the Saturday closest to July 16, all eyes are on the water as a procession of boats carries a statue of the Virgin to the bay in honor of the Fiesta de la Virgen del Mar (Virgin of the Sea Festival). Both events brighten the region with colorful decorations, music, dance, and fireworks.

Food

International cuisine dominates Playas del Coco’s restaurant scene due to the town’s hefty expat population and a consistent flow of foreign visitors. Most of the town’s bars and grills offer every type of American pub food, and a variety of other establishments, from small gelato shops to cute bistros, serve French, Mexican, Italian, and Asian-inspired cuisines. Fish and seafood dishes that feature local catches monopolize the menus at most restaurants serving traditional Costa Rican food.

Le Coq

Road 151, 350 m (0.2 mi) south of the beach at Playa del Coco; tel. 506/8689-7464; noon-8pm Mon.-Sat.; $6-13.50

Easy to access on Playas del Coco’s main drag is the Mediterranean eatery Le Coq. This café has a few tables inside and a couple more out front, but I usually order the food to go so I can enjoy it at the beach or the boardwalk; both are just down the street. I like the loaded wraps made with lightly toasted pita bread; four are suitable for vegetarians (two are falafel-based, and the others have roasted chickpeas or vegetables) and two contain souvlaki (chicken or pork), but the most popular is the chicken shawarma, which features Le Coq’s signature garlic aioli.

The Lookout

Chantel Suites, 3 km (1.9 mi) south of the beach at Playa del Coco; tel. 506/8397-8690; www.lookoutcoco.com; noon-8pm daily; $14.50-24

Head up the mountain on the outskirts of town to The Lookout, a low-key but high-quality restaurant that’s perfect for a date night or socializing with friends. This rooftop establishment has reinvented itself a few times, but I’m a fan of the current menu, which is a diverse offering of foods ranging from oysters and tacos to sushi and steaks. The customizable Lookout Burgers—built with beef or chicken, bacon, gouda or blue cheese, and heaps of fresh sauteed or caramelized vegetables—are most delish! Enjoy one while taking in a killer panoramic view of Bahía Coco that you can’t get anywhere else.

S Mar Azul

Avenida Arrecifes, 325 m (355 yd) southeast of the beach at Playa del Coco; tel. 506/8697-8602; 4pm-10pm Mon.-Fri., noon-10pm Sat.-Sun.; $24-34

Liquor Lingo

Playas del Coco is known in part for the bucketloads of booze available in its bars. You’ll be sure to see bottles of Cacique, a brand of guaro (sugarcane liquor). Residents can’t get enough: They sip it slowly, throw it back quickly, and drink it as part of the spicy Chiliguaro—a shot or cocktail that blends the distilled spirit with lime, hot sauce, and salt. On its own, guaro has a taste that resembles a sweetened version of an inexpensive vodka. If you’re not accustomed to its sharpness, consuming it in a cocktail infused with other flavors can help hide its bite.

Fitting in at any beach town’s nightclub or bar is easy if there is Costa Rican rum (try Ron Centenario) in your glass or if you’re cradling a cerveza. Don’t be surprised if you hear locals ordering beer as birra (BEER-a), a slang term. You may also observe customers asking for an águila (eagle). What they really want is an Imperial, the country’s best-selling lager, which features an eagle on its logo.

Undoubtedly expensive but worth the cost if you’re a foodie are the seafood dishes served at Mar Azul. At this restaurant, dining takes place casually, outdoors, and poolside, allowing the extravagant food, including the shrimp, the snapper, and especially the lobster, to stand out as the main reason to go. Joining complementary tastes, textures, and colors, each meal is visually and physically satisfying. On par with the great food is the waitstaff’s kind service; they can show you the day’s catches if you want help deciding what to order.

Bars and Nightlife

Zi Lounge

Road 151, 200 m (219 yd) south of the beach at Playa del Coco; tel. 506/8888-3939; www.zilounge.com; 11am-2:30am daily

The place to be seen on Playas del Coco’s main drag is Zi Lounge, a popular bar and restaurant with live bands or DJs nightly and a seemingly endless happy hour (11am-7pm daily). On holidays like Halloween and New Year’s Eve, the bar hosts over-the-top celebrations.

Coconutz Brewhouse

Road 151, 250 m (273 yd) south of the beach at Playa del Coco; tel. 506/8888-6957; www.coconutzbar.com; 11am-11pm Sun.-Thurs., 11am-midnight Fri.-Sat.

If you’re a sports fan, you can catch Costa Rican fútbol matches, NFL games, and other American favorites on the screens at Coconutz Brewhouse. The place is usually filled with expats eating pub grub (pizzas, wraps, chicken wings, tacos, and six different burger selections) and downing pints of beer. Coconutz produces lagers and ales in-house at its on-site microbrewery; six varieties are sold at the bar, plus a nonalcoholic root beer.

Father Rooster Bar & Grill

on Playa Ocotal; tel. 506/2670-1246; www.fatherrooster.com; 11am-9pm daily

Father Rooster Bar & Grill blends the town’s best frozen margaritas, which come in six fruity flavors. You can also try the half-mojito, half-margarita drink dubbed the “Mojito-rita,” and other refreshing cocktails like the “Tica Linda,” which is built over guaro (sugarcane liquor). Live music entertains patrons a few nights each week. The casual waterfront setting, ample beach seating, and convivial atmosphere make Father Rooster a comfortable place to hang out with family or friends.

Accommodations

Hotel M&M Beach House

100 m (109 yd) southwest of Road 151; tel. 506/2670-1212; www.hotelmym.com [URL inactive]; $91 s/d

Right on the beach, the economical wooden Hotel M&M Beach House has 17 rooms that are simple and without frills (there is no air-conditioning), but the trade-off is convenience. Stay here and you’ll be steps from the water as well as from the shops, restaurants, and bars clustered nearby.

The Palms at Coco Beach

behind Hotel M&M Beach House; tel. 506/2670-0367; www.palmscoco.com; $120 s/d

Behind the Hotel M&M Beach House, The Palms at Coco Beach offers guests the same convenience as its neighbor, but no ocean views. Instead, this two-story hotel has rooms (sleep 1-4) with king or double beds, a minifridge, a safe, and glorious air-conditioning, plus an included breakfast. The busy on-site restaurant, bar, and market give The Palms an animated buzz; select this hotel if you’re looking to socialize, not relax.

S Villa del Sol Boutique Hotel

300 m (328 yd) east of Road 151, 250 m (273 yd) south of the beach at Playa del Coco; tel. 506/2670-0085; www.villadelsol.com; room $70-90 s/d, studio $120-130 s/d

My preferred place to stay in Playas del Coco is Villa del Sol Boutique Hotel. This clean, charming, affordable hotel is a three-minute drive away from the busy and often noisy main drag, only a block south of the beach, and within walking distance of one of the area’s best restaurants (Mar Azul). It spans two buildings, one with standard rooms and the other with large kitchenette-equipped studios, allowing you to pick the type of accommodation that best suits the purpose and length of your stay. Guests of the standard rooms receive a complimentary breakfast, upping the value of stays in those rooms, but truly both lodging types are well worth their cost.

Information and Services

The hospital that serves most of the northern Pacific coast’s communities is Hospital Enrique Baltodano Briceño (Avenida 9, between Calle 13 and Calle 17, Liberia; tel. 506/2690-2300; 24 hours daily) in Liberia, a 35-km (22-mi), 40-minute drive east of Playas del Coco. Additional clinics, like Ebais Coco (Avenida Cangrejos/Calle Las Olas, 350 m/0.2 mi south of the beach at Playa del Coco; tel. 506/2670-0987; 7am-4pm Mon.-Fri.) are scattered throughout the downtown core.

The large Pacífico plaza on the east side of Road 151 contains a Fischel pharmacy (tel. 506/2670-2208; 8am-8pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-9pm Sat.-Sun.). One of the town’s best-stocked supermarkets is the Auto Mercado in the same plaza. Also in the plaza is BAC San José (tel. 506/2295-9797; 8:30am-3pm Mon.-Fri., 8:30am-1pm Sat.), a bank with an ATM (24 hours daily). Several other banks and ATMs line Playas del Coco’s main drag. The most popular is Banco Nacional (550 m/0.3 mi southeast of Playa del Coco; tel. 506/2670-0644; 8:30am-3:30pm Mon.-Fri.), with its own ATM (5am-10pm daily).

Playas del Coco also has a post office (Road 151, 1.5 km/0.9 mi south of Playa del Coco; tel. 506/2670-0418; 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Fri.), a police station (Playa del Coco; tel. 506/2670-0258; 24 hours daily), and a gas station, on the unnamed road behind Banco Nacional, 350 m (0.2 mi) southwest of the bank.

Getting There

From Liberia, Playas del Coco is a short 35-km (22-mi), 40-minute drive west on Highway 21 and Road 151 by car. From Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós (Guanacaste Airport), it’s an even quicker 25-km (15.5-mi), 30-minute drive on the same route. From downtown San José, Playas del Coco is a 245-km (152-mi), four-hour drive northwest on Highway 1, Highway 21, and Road 151.

Ecotrans Costa Rica (tel. 506/2654-5151; www.ecotranscostarica.com) is your best bet for private transfer services to Playas del Coco from nearly anywhere in the country. Prices average around $300 for the service from San José.

Shared shuttle services to Playas del Coco are available from San José, La Fortuna, Monteverde, Rincón de la Vieja, and beach towns on the Nicoya Peninsula with Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com). Expect to pay $50 pp for the service from San José.

Tenorio Adventure Company (tel. 506/2668-8203; www.tenorioadventurecompany.com) can provide post-tour onward transportation to Playas del Coco from several towns. White-water rafting tours, safari float tours, and hiking tours to Río Celeste at Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio can be arranged to include a pickup from your hotel in La Fortuna, Monteverde, or a variety of northern Pacific beach towns, then a drop-off at your hotel in Playas del Coco.

Public buses travel to Playas del Coco from Liberia and San José and offer drop-offs at Playas del Coco’s bus stop (Road 151, 250 m/273 yd south of the Pacífico plaza).

Getting Around

Downtown Playas del Coco is flat, paved, and easy to drive and walk around. Although the downtown strip is somewhat narrow, there is parking on both sides of the road as well as along the beach.

Electric Bike Costa Rica (tel. 506/8593-5077; www.electricbikecostarica.com; 7am-6pm daily) rents electric road bikes ($60 per day), mountain bikes ($60-80 per day), and even tandem bikes ($120 per day). It doesn’t have an office in town, but with advance notice can deliver bikes to hotels in the Playas del Coco area.

If you’d rather get around in a golf cart, rent a gas or electric one from Island Golf Cart Rentals (The Palms at Coco Beach; tel. 506/6025-8947). The carts ($35-45 per day, $220-250 per week) are street-legal, insured, and well maintained and can be delivered to hotels in the Playas del Coco area.

PLAYA HERMOSA

The beachside community of Playa Hermosa (not to be confused with the community of the same name on the central Pacific coast, just south of Jacó) is quiet and small, yet it is big enough to offer options for food, lodging, and activities to its handful of visitors. Although the area has little in the way of facilities and services, everything you might need during your stay can be obtained in Playas del Coco, one of the hubs of the northern Pacific coast, a mere 15-minute drive south from Playa Hermosa.

Two parallel, unnamed roads to the north and south enclose the town. Most development is along the northernmost road (you may see this road referred to as the second entrance to Playa Hermosa); it runs east-west for 500 m (0.3 mi) and connects the area’s main thoroughfare, Road 159, to the town’s namesake beach, Playa Hermosa. The community’s southernmost road (generally regarded as the first entrance to Playa Hermosa) also branches off Road 159 to the west and ends at the same beach after 850 m (930 yd). The area’s best accommodations are along this route.

Beaches

Whoever named the community’s principal beach Playa Hermosa, “Beautiful Beach,” must have witnessed one of its gorgeous sunsets, due west of the beach. The sun sets perfectly between a headland that shapes Bahía Hermosa and a small islet off the coast. Sailboats, fishing boats, and small rowboats rock from side to side as gentle waves crash into the shore. The best view is from the south end of the beach. At the spot, you can stretch out on soft gray-brown sand and take in the spectacle with minimal distraction. Locals and visitors alike enjoy walking and running along the bare beach. The bay is ideal for swimming.

Food and Accommodations

S Restaurante Coco Víquez

on the northern road, halfway between Road 159 and the beach; tel. 506/2672-0029; 7am-9pm daily; $8-14

My go-to restaurant in town is Restaurante Coco Víquez. This casual family-friendly spot serves delicious Costa Rican food at fair prices in line with a typical soda. The buffet bar is the best; stroll on in for breakfast, lunch, or dinner, peek at the day’s delights, create a custom plate or try the restaurant’s plate of the day, and enjoy a truly Tico meal! Grab a table at the front of the restaurant, which has a wall of sliding windows that open to views of the community’s busiest street.

Aquasport

on Playa Hermosa, near the end of the northern road; tel. 506/2672-0151; 11am-10pm daily; $10-19

To dine near the water, head to the beachfront Aquasport. The diner (and water sports shop) serves crowd-pleasing appetizers such as buffalo wings and chicken fingers alongside burgers, pizza, and seafood dishes. Fish entrées, including ceviche, fish tacos, and whole red snapper, are prepared fresh. Note that the establishment is casual; you can wander up to the spot in your bathing suit directly from the water. Enjoy the sunset from the waterfront bar.

S Villa del Sueño

on the northern road, 250 m (273 yd) south of Playa Hermosa; tel. 506/2672-0026; www.villadelsueno.com; $149 s/d

My preferred lodging in the area is the two-story, 45-room, hacienda-style Villa del Sueño. The well-priced inviting rooms are decorated in warm earthy tones and are outfitted with one queen or two single beds, air-conditioning, a TV, and a safe. The property is clean, quaint, quiet, and a four-minute walk from the beach. It also serves fantastic food on-site; the French-infused menu features crepes, almond-crusted brie cheese, and tarte tatin. On occasion, and almost always scheduled at dusk, you can enjoy live music at the hotel.

Hotel Bosque del Mar

on Playa Hermosa, at the end of the southern road; tel. 506/2672-0046; www.bosquedelmar.com; $476 s/d

Hotel Bosque del Mar is a much-loved lodging in the area, primarily for its beachfront location and superior-quality suites. If you’re celebrating a milestone or are planning a romantic getaway, opt for one of the hotel’s oceanfront suites. Each has a view of the Pacific Ocean and a jetted tub on a private, open-air terrace.

Information and Services

The hospital that serves most of the northern Pacific coast’s communities is Hospital Enrique Baltodano Briceño (Avenida 9, between Calle 13 and Calle 17, Liberia; tel. 506/2690-2300; 24 hours daily) in Liberia, a 32-km (20-mi), 35-minute drive east of Playa Hermosa.

Playa Hermosa has a couple of supermarkets, most notably Supermercado Luperón on Road 159. The supermarket has a small pharmacy (tel. 506/2672-0303; 7am-9pm daily).

Off Road 159 is the town’s only ATM (250 m/273 yd south of Supermercado Luperón; 24 hours daily).

S Experiencing the Exclusive Peninsula Papagayo

Nearly all of Costa Rica’s large-scale resorts are in the Northern Pacific region. Some occupy prime waterfront and hillside land on or near Peninsula Papagayo, an escarpment-rich, immaculately landscaped peninsula that juts off from the mainland roughly 35 km (22 mi) west of the Guanacaste Airport (40 minutes by car). Little development exists on the peninsula beyond the resorts and a smattering of swanky vacation rental properties, so the destination has a secluded, private feel—and a reputation for being the place to go among travelers who appreciate refinement.

To elevate your vacation with a splash of sophistication, consider visiting the affluent peninsula, even if only for a day. Here are my favorite ways to luxuriate in Peninsula Papagayo’s unrivaled exclusivity.

STAY OVERNIGHT ON THE PENINSULA

The easiest way to experience Peninsula Papagayo is to visit as a resort guest. Neither of my top two lodging recommendations is an all-inclusive property, but both have several restaurants and bars on-site.

• The Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo (7 km/4.3 mi southwest of the roundabout; tel. 506/2696-0000; www.fourseasons.com; $2,110 s/d) is a great place to stay regardless of whether you’re traveling with a partner, children, or a group of friends. Kids and teens enjoy the nonstop entertainment (children up to age 17 stay at the resort for free) and adults love the occasional rum and chocolate tastings. The resort’s cozy rooms feel like home—but with modern marble baths.

• The architecturally impressive Andaz Costa Rica Resort at Peninsula Papagayo (800 m/0.5 mi southwest of the roundabout; tel. 506/2690-1234; www.hyatt.com; $1,160 s/d) displays bold uses of shapes and textures that give the property the feel of a rainforest haven. Positioned on the edge of a forested hill, the resort flaunts waterfront views from multiple vantage points, including several of the property’s Zen-inspired rooms and suites.

TAKE A DAY TRIP TO THE PENINSULA

To experience Peninsula Papagayo at a fraction of the cost of staying at one of the destination’s resorts, take a self-guided day trip, ideally in a rental car, from anywhere in the region. It’s a good idea to pack a picnic lunch. Although the peninsula is heavily guarded (security staff make regular rounds; come prepared to explain the purpose of your visit), the following attractions are open to the public.

• Playa Virador is the primary beach of the Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo, but the north end of the beach, away from where resort guests lounge, is often empty.

• The neighboring beach of Playa Prieta receives even fewer visitors. Either sandy spot is a good option if you want a slice of intimate Peninsula Papagayo all to yourself. The beaches are at the bottom of long, steep staircases; it’s a 30-minute descent to either one.

• Playa Nacascolo is a slightly busier beach; its shimmery golden sand and calm alluring aquamarine water draws in most day visitors. Capuchin monkeys and coatis are known to make appearances at this beach, which is at the end of a flat boardwalk.

• A lovely place to take a short stroll is at the 184-slip Marina Papagayo (1.4 km/0.9 mi south of the roundabout), where you can gaze at superyachts and other impressive marine vessels. The marina’s Dive Bar (tel. 506/2696-2311; 11am-10pm daily; $15-25) is unjustifiably named; it’s a classy—but casual—restaurant, with a front-row seat to the boats and the water, and a decent place to get food and drinks if you didn’t pack a picnic lunch for the day.

• Golfing isn’t cheap, but having the option to play golf on the peninsula without being required to stay overnight helps make the activity more affordable. The Ocean Course at Peninsula Papagayo (5.4 km/3.4 mi southwest of the roundabout; tel. 506/2696-0000; tee times 7am-4pm daily, pro shop 6:30am-6pm daily; greens fees $240 adults, $100 ages 12-18, club rental $85), widely regarded as the best golf course in Costa Rica, is an 18-hole, par-72 course that stretches across 220 acres of the peninsula and has stunning bay and ocean views.

GETTING THERE

The peninsula is easily reached by car. If you don’t intend to rent one, you can hire a shared shuttle service through Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com) or a private transfer service through Ecotrans Costa Rica (tel. 506/2654-5151; www.ecotranscostarica.com) to get to Peninsula Papagayo from most destinations in the region and popular tourist destinations elsewhere in the country.

A roundabout, next to the peninsula’s public parking lot, marks the entrance to Peninsula Papagayo. A shuttle service (multiple times 8am-5pm daily) travels between the peninsula’s public parking lot and the trailheads of a few of those beaches, including Playa Virador, Playa Prieta, and Playa Nacascolo. Lot parking, use of the shuttle service, and access to the beaches are all free.

Getting There

Playa Hermosa is a 240-km (149-mi), four-hour drive northwest from downtown San José via Highway 1, Highway 21, Road 254, and Road 159. It’s a 35-km (22-mi), 35-minute drive west of downtown Liberia via Highway 21, Road 254, and Road 159.

Ecotrans Costa Rica (tel. 506/2654-5151; www.ecotranscostarica.com) is your best bet for private transfer services to Playa Hermosa from nearly any spot in the country. From San José, the service costs around $300.

Shared shuttle services frequent the beach town daily. Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com) offers departures from San José, La Fortuna, Monteverde, Rincón de la Vieja, and beach towns on the Nicoya Peninsula. One-way service costs about $50 pp from San José.

From Liberia or San José, you can take a public bus to Playa Hermosa and get dropped off at the town’s bus stop (Road 159, in front of Supermercado Luperón).

Getting Around

It’s a good idea to have a rental car so you can travel between the community’s north and south ends as often as you need. A car also comes in handy if you want to make day trips to nearby beaches and towns.

Playa Flamingo and Vicinity

The neighboring beachside towns of Playa Flamingo and Brasilito, and the surrounding coastal villages of Potrero, Surfside, and Las Catalinas are about 50 km (31 mi) southwest of Liberia. These quiet beach communities line two neighboring bays, Bahía Brasilito and Bahía Potrero. Playa Flamingo, the area’s most central town, juts out on a small rocky peninsula between the two bays.

This part of the Northern Pacific region is where to come to stretch out on soft light-colored sand. Some of the country’s most magnificent beaches sweep the coastline, and the gentle waves and clear waters create ideal conditions for swimming. Beach-hopping to this centrally located area is easy from Playas del Coco to the north and Tamarindo to the south. The string of beaches formed by Playa Flamingo, Playa Conchal, and Playa Puerto Viejo is particularly stunning and well worth the road trip. The dive sites at Islas Catalina off the coast of Las Catalinas are some of the best in Costa Rica for spotting marinelife.

Road 180 is the area’s main thoroughfare. From Brasilito in the south, it travels north to Playa Flamingo, where it connects with Road 911. Road 911 then leads northeast through Surfside and into Potrero. At Potrero, a side road branches off Road 911 to the northwest and continues to Las Catalinas.

PLAYA FLAMINGO AND BRASILITO

The bustling little town of Playa Flamingo, positioned on a narrow peninsula, sits between Potrero and Brasilito. Its east side, overlooking Bahía Potrero, is monopolized by the burgeoning Marina Flamingo (www.visitmarinaflamingo.com). The west side of town faces Bahía Brasilito and is home to Playa Flamingo’s biggest attraction, its namesake beach. Road 180, Playa Flamingo’s primary access road and main drag, connects the two bays by cutting across the peninsula. On the same road, midway across the peninsula, the commercial center known as La Plaza marks the town’s center.

Playa Flamingo isn’t your average Costa Rican beach town. It is the preferred coastal community of many wealthy Ticos and expats who reside or vacation in the luxury homes that sit atop the peninsula’s highlands. The obvious but not overwhelming development in town caters to this demographic. The few establishments that exist include a mini-mall, above-average restaurants, and a resort. Choose this destination if you want to surround yourself with American and other international influences.

S Beach-Hopping in Guanacaste

Guanacaste may be called the Gold Coast because its dry forest glows under a beating sun, but the nickname is also befitting of the lustrous beaches that stretch along the northern Pacific coast. Three beaches—Playa Flamingo, Playa Conchal, and Playa Puerto Viejo—are particularly eye-catching. Conveniently, they curve around the same bay, Bahía Brasilito, so traveling between each is quick and easy. Take a beach-hopping road trip, ideally in a rental car, to this trio of top beaches to treat yourself to soft sand, inviting water, and plenty of sunshine. If you set out early in the morning, you can depart from a beach destination as far north as Peninsula Papagayo or as far south as Playa Negra, visit all three beaches, and still make it back to your lodging before dark.

MORNING: PLAYA FLAMINGO

• Start the day at postcard-perfect Playa Flamingo, where you can swim in tropical blue-green water and sunbathe on silky sand. This popular beach is least busy in the morning but fills up as the day wears on (click here).

• Enjoy brunch or lunch on the sand at the Coco Loco Bar & Restaurant at the south end of the beach (click here).

Getting There

Playa Flamingo is on the west side of the town of Playa Flamingo. From the south, drive to the inland crossroads community of Huacas at the intersection of Road 155 and Road 180. From Huacas, Road 180 leads directly to Playa Flamingo, a 12-km (7.5-mi) drive that takes less than 20 minutes. Park at the back of the beach wherever there’s space between the trees; just be careful not to block the flow of traffic, as the road is narrow. To reach the beach from the north, take Road 911 to Road 180, then follow Road 180 through the town of Playa Flamingo.

EARLY AFTERNOON: PLAYA CONCHAL

• Head to Playa Conchal for a change of scenery and to participate in some activities on or by the water (click here).

• Near the east end of the beach, the tour outfit Conchal Fun provides horseback riding tours and fishing tours, as well as Jet Ski tours and rentals (click here).

• If you’d prefer to distance yourself from the action, visit Playa Conchal’s quieter west end.

Getting There

To reach Playa Conchal from Playa Flamingo, take Road 180 south from Playa Flamingo for 6 km (3.7 mi) (a 10-minute drive) to the town of Brasilito. Park in the makeshift parking lot on the street in front of Playa Brasilito and pay the parking attendant (budget $1-2 per hour that you’ll spend at the beach). From Playa Brasilito, it’s a short walk down the coast to the east end of Playa Conchal. To reach the west end of Playa Conchal from the east end of the same beach, you can either walk along the coast for 1.5 km (0.9 mi), or drive to Playa Puerto Viejo, which adjoins Playa Conchal to the west.

LATE AFTERNOON: PLAYA PUERTO VIEJO

• Tranquil and remote Playa Puerto Viejo is the perfect place to round out the afternoon. This is the least frequented of the bunch and one of my favorite sandy spots in Costa Rica (click here).

• Take a relaxing dip or a barefoot stroll along the coast.

• Watch the sky change colors as the sun goes down, but be sure to head out before dusk to avoid being on the beach after dark.

Getting There

Playa Puerto Viejo is an extension of the west end of Playa Conchal. It can be reached on foot from Playa Conchal by taking the 1-kim (0.6-mi) forest trail that connects the two beaches, or by car via a series of roads that zigzag through the hamlet of Matapalo. A bumpy dirt road separates Playa Puerto Viejo from Matapalo, but you don’t need a 4WD vehicle to make the drive. From Brasilito and Playa Conchal, the 12-km (7.5-mi) journey to Playa Puerto Viejo takes 25 minutes.

Unassuming Brasilito feels rather out of place in the region, with luxury homes and all-inclusive resorts both north and south of it. This unspoiled and down-to-earth beach town, on Bahía Brasilito and just 10 minutes south of Playa Flamingo by car, is a favorite among young locals. Brasilito’s main attraction is Playa Conchal, a beach made of soft shell fragments and white sand.

A 5-km (3.1-mi), 10-minute drive south from Brasilito leads to Huacas, an inland crossroads community at the intersection of Road 180 and Road 155. This location means Brasilito and Playa Flamingo are as accessible as Guanacaste’s more frequented beach towns.

Beaches

Playa Conchal

Without a doubt, Brasilito’s primary draw is Playa Conchal. Comprising millions of tiny shell fragments and dusty white sand, this is one of Costa Rica’s most unique beaches. The stunning landscape sweeps the coastline just south of town, separated from Playa Brasilito by Punto Conchal, a red rock formation.

Shell fragments (and the occasional complete shell) fill the east end of the beach. Polished like sea glass, the shells are soft enough to walk on barefoot, and you’ll love digging your feet into them for a natural foot massage. Long walks can be a challenge, as you have to work harder than usual to pull your feet out of the sand each time you step. The view from this part of the beach is particularly pretty, as craggy headlands frame the coast to the north and south. Swimming is decent here around the shore of Bahía Brasilito, but beware of a rocky seabed immediately south of Punto Conchal. Nearest to Brasilito and a few high-end resorts, this eastern section of Playa Conchal is the most frequented.

The west end of the beach, separated from Punto Conchal by 1 km (0.6 mi), is wildly different. It has fine sand (arguably the lightest in the country), hardly any shells, and fewer visitors than the opposite end of the beach. A swim here, among aquamarine waters that glide into Playa Conchal in rows, is paradisiacal. Choose this section of Playa Conchal if you want to isolate yourself from other beachgoers.

Vegetation backs the entirety of the beach, but it is sparse in areas and offers no opportunities for shade in others. Come prepared to stretch out on a largely exposed beach.

As striking as the beach’s shells may be, removing them from the beach is strictly prohibited. Also forbidden is driving anywhere on the beach between Brasilito and Playa Conchal.

To reach the east end of Playa Conchal from town, you can walk along Playa Brasilito and make an easy 100-m (328-ft) climb up and over Punto Conchal. To reach the west end of Playa Conchal, you can drive or take a taxi to Playa Conchal’s alternate access point at Playa Puerto Viejo, then follow the 1-km (0.6-mi) forest trail that connects the two beaches.

Playa Puerto Viejo

With free time to enjoy any beach in Guanacaste, I make a beeline for Playa Puerto Viejo. It’s essentially an extension of the west end of Playa Conchal, with a sandy 1-km (0.6-mi) forest trail connecting the two beaches. It’s perfect for swimming and sunbathing and has gentle waves that creep up the soft sandy shore. Because the beach can only be accessed from the south via an unnamed bumpy dirt road from Matapalo, if not on foot from Playa Conchal, Playa Puerto Viejo receives a small fraction of the visitors that Playa Conchal and Playa Brasilito does.

Playa Brasilito

You’ll find most locals in Brasilito sprawled out on the light-brown sand of Playa Brasilito. This long beach stretches the length of the town and beyond. Although most foreigners spend their days at neighboring Playa Conchal, you can have an equally enjoyable time playing in the waves off Brasilito’s shore or cooling off with a drink at the beachfront seafood restaurant Pacific Palms (Playa Brasilito; tel. 506/4705-0635; 11am-9pm daily).

Playa Flamingo

Stunning Playa Flamingo is the best reason to visit Playa Flamingo. Filled with silky, postcard-worthy, nearly white sand, this deep beach has a wide-open view of Bahía Brasilito, which sparkles in emerald, teal, and steel-blue hues. Over 1 km (0.6 mi) long, the beach provides more than enough room for stretching out away from others, and its proximity to a variety of restaurants means that food and drinks are never far away. If you’re not staying in Playa Flamingo, this beach is a great day-trip destination that is worth the drive from farther-flung locales. To access the beach, follow Road 180 west through the town of Playa Flamingo. You’ll find the beach 250 m (273 yd) beyond La Plaza.

Local Guides and Tours

Ecotrans Costa Rica

Centro Comercial La Plaza, Playa Flamingo; tel. 506/2654-5151; www.ecotranscostarica.com; 8am-6pm daily

The local tour operator Ecotrans Costa Rica has been a mainstay in Costa Rica’s tourism industry since the late 1990s, and its depth of experience shows. The organization offers excellent customer service and meticulous attention to detail. It specializes in day tours to attractions around the region, including tours to Parque Nacional Palo Verde, adventure parks around Rincón de la Vieja, and other popular sites. Tour prices range $40-160 pp.

Conchal Fun

on Playa Conchal, Brasilito; tel. 506/8557-2776; www.conchalfun.com; 6am-9pm daily; prices vary by activity

Conchal Fun is a company of local tour guides who offer different experiences based on their individual specialties. Tour options include horseback rides, ATV tours, Jet Ski tours, and fishing excursions (including sportfishing, spearfishing, and fly-fishing). Every guide is prompt, courteous, and professional. Conchal Fun provides the few tours that operate directly out of Brasilito and Playa Conchal; other operators run tours out of Tamarindo.

Planet Dolphin

Marina Flamingo, Playa Flamingo; tel. 506/6028-8250; www.planetdolphin.com; 8am-8pm daily

Recent renovations to the longtime sleepy marina, Marina Flamingo, haven’t just given new life to Playa Flamingo, they’ve also brought a few well-known tour operators, headquartered elsewhere in Costa Rica, to Playa Flamingo for the purpose of establishing satellite operations at the marina. The central Pacific coast’s esteemed sailing outfitter, Planet Dolphin, is one of those companies; its popular sailing, snorkeling, and dolphin-watching tour (2pm daily; 3.5-4 hours; $90 adults, $60 ages 5-9, $10 under age 5) now explores the northern Pacific coastline with departures from Playa Flamingo. The tour provides a leisurely sail on a 110-passenger catamaran, a visit to an island, and food and drinks, including some alcoholic beverages, although the tour is not an all-you-can-drink booze cruise.

Golf

Garra de León Golf Course

150 m (164 yd) south of the beach at Playa Conchal, Brasilito; tel. 506/2654-3034; tee times 6:30am-4pm daily, pro shop 6am-6pm daily; greens fees $170 adults, $35 under age 14

The Garra de León Golf Course is one of the top two courses in the country; it attracts golfers from around the world. Designed by renowned golf architect Robert Trent Jones II, the 18-hole, par-71 course is famous for the wide and hilly fairways that provide Pacific Ocean and mountain views. Plus, there’s nighttime glow golfing: After dark, you can drive fluorescent golf balls and tap them around a putting green with the help of lasers. The course is adjacent to the Westin Reserva Conchal (tel. 506/2654-3500; www.westinplayaconchal.com; $699 s, $799 d, all-inclusive) and the W Costa Rica Reserva Conchal (tel. 506/2654-3600; www.marriott.com; $715 s/d), two Marriott-owned resorts. Because the course is open only to guests of the resorts (except by special request, and only when there’s availability), your best chance to golf there is to book a stay at either one. Reservations for tee times are required. The greens fee includes use of a golf cart; clubs are available to rent ($65 adult clubs, $40 junior clubs).

Food

Rather surprisingly, the area’s top restaurants aren’t in Playa Flamingo; they’re on the eastern outskirts of Brasilito, along Road 180.

S Gracia La Vid

Road 180, 700 m (766 yd) east of the fútbol field, Brasilito; tel. 506/7054-3498; www.graciacostarica.com/la-vid; 4pm-9:30pm Tues.-Sun.; $12-22

Just up the road from Ander’s is Gracia La Vid, a fantastic Italian restaurant that creates artisanal pizzas, fresh pastas, and gorgeous cheese and charcuterie boards. This elegant but unpretentious spot doubles as a wine bar and may just have the largest selection of wines in Guanacaste, with over 60 imported reds, whites, rosés, and sparkling varieties to choose from.

S Ander’s Restaurant

Road 180, 350 m (0.2 mi) east of the fútbol field, Brasilito; tel. 506/2654-6034; 11am-10pm daily; $13.50-23

For fanciful food preparations and amiable service, go to Ander’s Restaurant. This beloved casual restaurant has a polished look and sophisticated vibe on par with its welcoming staff and upscale menu. Mainly seafood-based appetizers and entrées are served; rare selections you won’t find at most restaurants in Costa Rica include tataki-style tuna, bacon-wrapped swordfish, and caramelized scallops. Meat and pasta dishes are also available, but most have seafood components.

Coco Loco Bar & Restaurant

on Playa Flamingo, Playa Flamingo; tel. 506/4700-3939; www.cocolococostarica.com; 11am-9:30pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-9:30pm Sun.; $13-23

On scorching hot days, the Coco Loco Bar & Restaurant on Playa Flamingo is a lifesaver. Cool down with a Coco Loco cocktail—a guaro, rum, and tequila blend added to coconut water and cream—or fill up on the Loco Coco entrée, a mix of rice, fish, shrimp, octopus, and mussels; both are served in an actual coconut. This relaxed spot has tables on the beach’s silky sand, each one equipped with a large umbrella so you can enjoy your meal under cooling shade.

Accommodations

Conchal Hotel

Road 180, 400 m (0.25 mi) south of Playa Brasilito, Brasilito; tel. 506/2654-9125; www.conchalcr.com; $140 s/d

The best hotel in Brasilito is the colorful Conchal Hotel. It has 16 clean and cozy guest rooms centered around the small property’s flora-framed pool. A tropical buffet breakfast (included in the rates) is served on the second floor at the hotel’s open-air Papaya Restaurant (6:30am-10am Wed., 6:30am-8:30pm Thurs.-Tues.; $14-24). The restaurant has the healthiest food in the area and offers ample vegetarian and vegan options. Service at the hotel and the restaurant is above average.

S Villas La Paz

750 m (820 yd) south of Playa Puerto Viejo, just west of Playa Conchal; tel. 506/8307-9423; $80-295

Southwest of Brasilito, on the west side of Playa Conchal, is one of my favorite rental properties in Costa Rica. Clustered within a private complex, Villas La Paz has six tropical villas, each unique in design, decor, and size (sleep 2-12). These villas are constructed to mimic mini houses; large villas resemble full-size homes and small villas feel like apartments. The complex is just a short walk south of Playa Puerto Viejo and the west end of Playa Conchal, and 4.5 km (2.8 mi) north of the hamlet of Matapalo, the closest place to grab the groceries you need to prepare your own meals in your villa’s fully equipped kitchen. I often spot monkeys, iguanas, and a variety of birds around the peaceful grounds, which have plenty of open-air gathering spaces, oversize rooms, and a communal pool. The Costa Rican family that owns the place goes above and beyond to make your stay memorable.

Margaritaville Beach Resort

225 m (246 yd) west of Centro Comercial La Plaza, Playa Flamingo; tel. 506/2654-4444; www.margaritavillebeachresortcostarica.com; $329 s/d

Accommodations in Playa Flamingo are few and far between. A number have come and gone, but the one left standing—the three-story, three-building Margaritaville Beach Resort—is no fallback option. The 120-room resort has four restaurants and bars, three pools, a spa, a gym, a slew of daily activities, and lots of shade-providing palapas that give the place a tropical feel. Rooms and suites (some of which can sleep eight) feature beachy decor, crisp white linens, sitting areas, and either a garden, pool, or ocean view.

Information and Services

Most of the area’s services are shared by Brasilito and Playa Flamingo.

The hospital that serves most of the northern Pacific coast’s communities is Hospital Enrique Baltodano Briceño (Avenida 9, between Calle 13 and Calle 17, Liberia; tel. 506/2690-2300; 24 hours daily) in Liberia, a 70-km (43-mi), 70-minute drive northeast of Brasilito or a 75-km (47-mi), 80-minute drive northeast of Playa Flamingo.

Brasilito has two clinics: Ebais Brasilito (Road 180, 150 m/164 yd south of the Conchal Hotel; tel. 506/2654-4848; 9am-4pm Mon.-Thurs., 9am-3pm Fri.) and Centro Médico Metropolitano (Road 180, 2 km/1.2 mi south of Brasilito center; tel. 506/4000-3822; 24 hours). Pharmacies exist inside Centro Médico Metropolitano (8am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-noon Sat.) and at Farmacia Plaza Flamingo (in the commercial center known as La Plaza; tel. 506/2654-5524; 9am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-5pm Sun.) in Playa Flamingo.

Where Road 180 connects with Road 911 at Playa Flamingo is Banco Nacional (tel. 506/2212-2000; 8:30am-3:45pm daily), which has an ATM (5am-10pm daily). There’s another ATM (800 m/0.5 mi south of Playa Brasilito; 5am-midnight daily) on Road 180 just south of Brasilito.

Playa Flamingo has a police station (1.5 km/0.9 mi south of the Centro Comercial La Plaza; tel. 506/2600-2032; 24 hours daily) on the road that runs parallel to the beach. Brasilito has a few supermarkets.

The closest gas station is south of Brasilito and Playa Flamingo on Road 155 in the village of Huacas.

Getting There

To get to Brasilito from downtown San José, it’s a 270-km (165-mi), 4.5-hour drive west on Highways 1, 18, and 21 and Roads 155 and 180. To get to Brasilito from Liberia, it’s a 70-km (43-mi), 70-minute drive southwest on Highway 21 and Roads 155 and 180. To reach Playa Flamingo from either city, follow the route to Brasilito, then continue north on Road 180 for 5 km (3.1 mi). The drive between Brasilito and Playa Flamingo takes 10 minutes.

From Potrero, Playa Flamingo is a 5-km (3.1-mi), 10-minute drive south on Roads 911 and 180. To reach Brasilito from Potrero, head toward Playa Flamingo on Road 911 for 4 km (2.5 mi), then take Road 180 south for 4 km (2.5 mi), completing the 15-minute drive.

Ecotrans Costa Rica (tel. 506/2654-5151; www.ecotranscostarica.com) is your best bet for private transfer services to Brasilito and Playa Flamingo from nearly any spot in the country. Expect to pay roughly $300 for a service taken from San José.

Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com) offers daily shared shuttle services to Brasilito and Playa Flamingo from San José, La Fortuna, Monteverde, Rincón de la Vieja, and beach towns on the Nicoya Peninsula. Budget $50 pp for one-way service from San José.

Brasilito and Playa Flamingo can both be reached by public bus from Liberia and San José. You can get dropped off at the bus stop in Brasilito (Road 180, across from the park) or Playa Flamingo (Road 180, 200 m/219 yd south of La Plaza).

POTRERO, SURFSIDE, AND LAS CATALINAS

The quiet communities of Potrero, Surfside, and Las Catalinas occupy the coastline of Bahía Potrero. Largely unpopulated and off the tourist radar, this area has a mix of upper-end hotels and laid-back restaurants and bars. The liveliest villages, Potrero and Surfside, offer a similar vibe to that of other small self-sufficient beach towns in Guanacaste. Several expats reside and own businesses in the area, lending a foreign—mainly North American—feel to the restaurants and bars. Catering primarily to vacation home renters with its complex of residences, restaurants, and upscale shops, Las Catalinas is a unique, isolated, and car-free community that meshes well with a long-term stay.

Surfside sits just north of where Roads 180 and 911 meet in Playa Flamingo. This is where you’ll find Playa Potrero. Another few kilometers north, where Road 911 turns east, is the town of Potrero. Las Catalinas, the farthest north, is accessible only by taking the unnamed road that locals call “the road to Las Catalinas.”

The area’s infamously hilly, narrow Monkey Trail, a 10-km (6.2-mi) stretch of Road 911 between Potrero and the tiny community of Nuevo Colón, provides a route into and out of the region via the inland hamlet of Sardinal. Make sure you have a 4WD vehicle before setting out on the road; although the road is mostly paved (road construction in the area is ongoing), you may need to ford a river at the section that nears The Congo Trail (tel. 506/2666-4422; www.congotrail.com; 8am-5pm daily), a canopy tour park. If you’re in the area during its operating hours, you can cut through the park and use its private bridge to cross the river, when the road floods. To access the bridge from the south, enter the property of The Congo Trail on the left. Cross the bridge and continue driving through the park for 250 m (273 yd) until you arrive back at the Monkey Trail. From the north, follow the same route in reverse. There’s no fee to cross the bridge, but consider thanking staff for the ease of travel with a friendly wave and a few taps on the horn.

To avoid the Monkey Trail altogether, take Road 180 from the south. From Brasilito, Road 180 is an easy drive as far north as Playa Flamingo, where it connects with a much tamer stretch of Road 911 that delivers a pleasant drive into Potrero.

Beaches

Playa Potrero

The main beach, Playa Potrero, lines the central stretch of Bahía Potrero and connects Potrero to Surfside. Dark sand keeps this area of the coast empty most of the time, as many of the region’s visitors congregate at prettier light-sand beaches farther south. The view of the water from Playa Potrero is an attractive sight, as several fishing boats bob in the bay’s gentle waves. You can see the rocky island formations of Islas Catalina in the distance. Swimming just off the beach in Bahía Potrero is a lovely experience once you’re out from the shore, where black volcanic sediment gets kicked up.

Playa Danta

Up the coast from Potrero, Playa Danta is tucked at the northern end of Bahía Potrero. This beach fronts the community of Las Catalinas. It has dark-gray sand and draws few visitors apart from area residents, but its gentle waters are sought after for swimming, snorkeling, boogie boarding, kayaking, and stand-up paddling. It also has boccie ball, beach volleyball courts, and a parking lot. The parking lot hides amid a forest clearing on the south side of the main road just as it exits Las Catalinas. From the lot, a short boardwalk trail leads to the beach.

Playa Dantita

If you would prefer a beach with prettier sand, visit Playa Dantita. This gorgeous little beach with light-gray sand is an isolated oasis just north of Playa Danta. You can access the remote spot at low tide by climbing over the jagged outcrop that splits the beaches near the water. At high tide, hike up and over the forested hill that divides the beaches. An unnamed hillside trail (1 km/0.6 mi one-way; 30 minutes; moderate) connects the two beaches and provides beautiful views of the bay among forest clearings. The trail to Playa Dantita is signed at the north end of Playa Danta. Alternatively, you can reach Playa Dantita from Playa Danta by kayak on a kayaking and snorkeling tour (7am-3pm; 2 hours; $90 pp) led by Pura Vida Ride (Playa Danta; tel. 506/2654-6137; www.puravidaride.com; 7am-5pm daily). The excursion includes the use of kayaking and snorkeling equipment, as well as a life vest.

Local Guides and Tours

Pura Vida Ride

on Playa Danta, Las Catalinas; tel. 506/2654-6137; www.puravidaride.com; 7am-5pm daily

Pura Vida Ride is the area’s go-to provider for water sports equipment rentals, including paddleboards ($35 per hour), kayaks (single $35 per hour, double $50 per hour), snorkeling gear ($18 per day), and boogie boards ($18 per day). It also runs stand-up paddleboarding tours and kayaking tours off Playa Danta, but its specialty is mountain biking. Guides are experts in this field and can outfit you with everything you need—from equipment to advice—to safely navigate the fantastic bike trails that curve around the hills adjacent to Pura Vida Ride’s office.

S Diving with Manta Rays

Ten km (6.2 mi) off the coast of Las Catalinas, the Islas Catalina archipelago is a renowned dive site (for advanced divers only) where schools of fish reside among white-tip sharks, sea turtles, and nine species of rays. The showstoppers are giant manta rays—some as wide as 6 m (20 ft)—that regularly occupy the area, especially November-May when the water is cold and choppy. Although their size can be intimidating, witnessing the gentle giants floating within meters of you is a humbling experience not to be missed.

Numerous dive operators run tours to Islas Catalina. The majority are based in Playas del Coco and Tamarindo, both around the same distance from the archipelago (20 km/12.4 mi as the crow flies, roughly a 45-minute boat ride). The most common dive sites around the islands and islets are La Pared, La Punta, La Viuda, and Los Sombreros. Each provides an opportunity to spot rays. Collectively, the dive sites at Islas Catalina are referred to as “The Cats.” You can dive to roughly 30 m (98 ft) here, and visibility reaches 15 m (49 ft). Water temperatures average around 28°C (83°F), 18°C (65°F) at the thermocline.

Summer Salt Dive Center

Calle La Chorrera; 25 m (82 ft) northeast of Road 151, Playas del Coco; tel. 506/2670-0308; www.summer-salt.com; 7am-5pm daily

Summer Salt’s Islas Catalina dives (7am daily; 7 hours; $195 pp for 3 tanks) include equipment rental.

Rich Coast Diving

Road 151, 400 m (0.25 mi) south of the beach at Playa del Coco, Playas del Coco; tel. 506/2670-0176; www.richcoastdiving.com; 7am-5pm daily

Rich Coast Diving’s Islas Catalina dives (6am daily; 7 hours; $135 pp for 2 tanks) require separate equipment rental fees ($30 pp).

Mountain Biking

Pura Vida Ride

on Playa Danta, Las Catalinas; tel. 506/2654-6137; www.puravidaride.com; 7am-5pm daily

Las Catalinas is home to a whopping 30 km (19 mi) of single-track mountain bike trails. Sign up with outfitter Pura Vida Ride to bike either the 12-km (12.4-mi) Short Loop (7am-3:30pm; 1.5 hours; $85 pp) or the 25-km (15.5-mi) Long Loop (7am-2pm; 2.5-3 hours; $110 pp). The cost includes instruction and the use of a bike and helmet—but note that this is not a guided tour. The principal trailhead is located on the north side of the community of Las Catalinas, at the parking lot for Playa Danta just beyond Pura Vida Ride’s office. The operator can provide a map.

Food

S La Jama

on the road to Las Catalinas, 80 m west of Road 911, Potrero; tel. 506/8395-5615; 7am-9pm daily; $7.50-13.50

Despite the area’s ubiquitous North American influence, pockets of authentic Costa Rica peek through like rays of sun. One place to bask in them is at La Jama, a rickety, graffiti-wrapped, roadside restaurant that appears impervious to modernization and refreshingly uninterested in capitalizing on tourism. Reminiscent of the bare-bones style of restaurant that was common in Costa Rica decades ago, La Jama focuses on nailing the basics: great service, even better food, and fair prices. Its traditional plates, including casados and rice dishes, are the main reason to go, but it also serves a mean burger.

The Beach House

on Playa Potrero, Surfside; tel. 506/2654-6203; www.beachhousecr.com; 11am-9pm daily; $15-25

For lunch or dinner, head to the waterfront for a casual meal at The Beach House. The extensive menu of this colorful, family-friendly diner mixes American cuisine with locally caught seafood. The kitchen can also grill or fry any fish you catch for $10 (including accompanying side dishes). For dessert, there’s key lime pie.

Pura Vida Grind Café

on Playa Danta, Las Catalinas; tel. 506/2654-6137; www.puravidaride.com; 7am-5pm daily

Compared to Potrero and Surfside, the cost of food at Las Catalinas is disproportionately expensive. If you’re in Las Catalinas on a day trip to check out the complex or to lounge on Playa Danta or Playa Dantita, consider packing a picnic lunch to save some money. Alternatively, you can find delicious and affordable light fare, including gelato, fresh-baked muffins and empanadas, and hot or cold coffees and teas at Pura Vida Grind Café, inside the beachfront gear shop for the water sports equipment provider Pura Vida Ride.

Bars and Nightlife

Potrero Brewing Company

Road 911, 300 m (328 yd) east of the beach at Playa Potrero, Surfside; tel. 506/4080-3783; www.potrerobrewingco.com; 11am-10pm Wed.-Mon.

Where Road 911 passes through Surfside perpendicular to Playa Potrero is a row of low-key spots where you can sip drinks and socialize. Bar-hopping between each is easy, but if you only have time to visit one, check out the Potrero Brewing Company, Potrero’s eponymous microbrewery. It serves pints and flights of artisanal beer, which you can enjoy inside the company’s modern two-story brewpub or outside on a covered patio. Trivia nights held here are wildly fun, in part due to the discounted beer that flows during the event.

Accommodations

Curiol

Calle Mariposa, 850 m (930 yd) east of the beach at Playa Potrero, Surfside; tel. 506/8555-9777; www.curiol.com; suite $170 s/d, tent $150 s/d

Plucked from Bali and dropped into Surfside is the exotic-feeling Curiol, a small, sophisticated boutique hotel that manifests calm and comfort through its use of natural materials, flowy textiles, warm palettes, and Indigenous-inspired decor. It’s impossible not to feel relaxed at this hotel, whether you’re sipping a curated cocktail at the poolside bar, sinking your toes into the sandy floor of the outdoor lounge, or settling into one of the air-conditioned designer suites (some for two people and others for four). The hotel also has glamping tents, which provide a private bathroom but no air-conditioning, if less expensive lodging is preferred.

S Hotel Bahía Esmeralda

Road 911 at the road to Las Catalinas, Potrero; tel. 506/2654-4480; www.hotelbahiaesmeralda.com; room $134 s/d, villa $300 s/d

In the community of Potrero, less than a five-minute walk to Bahía Potrero, is the charming Hotel Bahía Esmeralda. At this well-kept gated hotel, you can live like a Tico in one of 10 modest buildings configured around the communal pool, each resembling a classic Costa Rican abode with colorful cinderblock walls and a terra-cotta roof. Inside, a collection of rooms, studios, apartments, villas, and suites that range in size, occupancy, and furnishings invites you to pick the lodging that’s perfect for you. Some rooms are simply outfitted for two guests; suites are two-bath, three-bedroom units with full kitchens and dining spaces that can accommodate up to seven. This place is ideal for groups or long-term visitors looking to stretch their dollar on the pricey Pacific coast.

Casa Chameleon Las Catalinas

on the road to Las Catalinas, Las Catalinas; tel. 506/2103-1212; www.casachameleonhotels.com; $1,315 s/d

A unique, romantic, and extravagant place to escape to in Guanacaste, the exquisite Casa Chameleon Las Catalinas has 21 villas perched atop the area’s hill. Each villa captures a spectacular view of either the forest, Bahía Potrero, or the Pacific Ocean, perfect for admiring while you soak in your private saltwater plunge pool. Valet parking, shuttle services to and from Playa Danta, and breakfast are merely a few of the complimentary services provided by this adults-only resort. This is also where you’ll find the area’s top fine-dining restaurant: Sentido Norte (tel. 506/2103-1200; www.sentidonorterestaurant.com; 11am-5pm and 6pm-9pm daily; reservations required; casual elegant dress code; min. age 13; $29-39).

Information and Services

The hospital that serves most of the northern Pacific coast’s coastal communities is Hospital Enrique Baltodano Briceño (Avenida 9, between Calle 13 and Calle 17, Liberia; tel. 506/2690-2300; 24 hours daily) in Liberia, an 80-km (50-mi), 80-minute drive northeast of Potrero.

Both Potrero and Surfside have small supermarkets. There are ATMs in Potrero; the easiest to find is the ATM (5am-midnight daily) for Banco de Costa Rica (Road 911, 350 m/0.2 mi after the road bends sharply to the east). The closest gas station is 15 km (9.3 mi) south of Potrero on Road 155, in the village of Huacas.

Getting There

From Liberia, it’s an 80-km (50-mi), 80-minute drive southwest to Potrero via Highway 21, Road 155, Road 180, and Road 911. This route loops south and comes up through Playa Flamingo, so you’ll pass through Surfside 2 km (1.2 mi) before reaching Potrero. To continue to Las Catalinas, stay straight as Road 911 becomes “the road to Las Catalinas” (as it’s known to locals); drive for another 5 km (3.1 mi) (10 minutes).

To get to Potrero on the Monkey Trail (Road 911) from Liberia, you’ll need a 4WD vehicle. This route is shorter at only 50 km (31 mi) but takes roughly the same time (75 minutes) and may require you to ford a river.

To reach Potrero, Surfside, or Las Catalinas from downtown San José, it’s a 210-km (130-mi), 3.5-hour drive to get to Liberia. From Liberia, take Highway 21, then Road 155 and Road 180, which turns into “the road to Las Catalinas.” The complete drive from San José to Las Catalinas is 290 km (180 mi) and takes nearly 5 hours.

From Playa Flamingo, Potrero is a 5-km (3.1-mi), 10-minute drive northeast on Roads 180 and 911. From Brasilito, it’s an 8-km (5-mi), 10-minute drive northeast on Roads 180 and 911 to reach Potrero.

Ecotrans Costa Rica (tel. 506/2654-5151; www.ecotranscostarica.com) can deliver you to Potrero, Surfside, or Las Catalinas from destinations all over the country. To these beach towns, the price of a private transfer service from San José is roughly $300.

Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com) provides daily shared shuttle services to Potrero, Surfside, and Las Catalinas from San José, La Fortuna, Monteverde, Rincón de la Vieja, and beach towns on the Nicoya Peninsula. From San José, the average cost of the one-way service is $50 pp.

You can reach any of the three destinations by public bus from Playa Flamingo. The bus departs from Playa Flamingo, travels to Surfside first, continues to Potrero, then visits Las Catalinas.

Tamarindo and Vicinity

Roughly 75 km (47 mi) southwest of Liberia are the coastal destinations of Tamarindo and Playa Grande. Divided by the estuary of Río Matapalo and parkland belonging to Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas, the two towns edge Bahía Tamarindo, one of the westernmost bays in the Guanacaste province. Though a mere 4 km (2.5 mi) separates Tamarindo from Playa Grande to the north, the beach towns feel much farther apart, thanks to the estuary that divides them. The towns are connected via boat crossings and roads that veer inland.

You cannot find two neighboring destinations that are more different from each other than Tamarindo and Playa Grande. Tamarindo, the most popular tourist town in Guanacaste, is notably developed and superbly energetic. It can feel a bit overwhelming during the high season, when the main drag is crowded and businesses vie for tourists’ attention. Playa Grande is calm year-round, especially during the low-season months when it receives few visitors. For adventure and nightlife, choose Tamarindo. For a more low-key stay, go with Playa Grande.

In the southwest corner of the northern Pacific coast, beginning 9 km (5.6 mi) down the coast from Tamarindo, are Playa Avellanas and Playa Negra, two tiny beach communities that attract off-the-beaten-path travelers with a penchant for surfing.

TAMARINDO

Tamarindo, or “Tama” as the locals call it, is Guanacaste’s most developed coastal destination—a tight-knit beach community bursting at the seams with accommodations, restaurants, bars, tour offices, boutiques, and surf shops. The town officially begins at the south end of the estuary that separates it from Playa Grande. Playa Tamarindo, the area’s main beach, begins at the estuary and stretches 1 km (0.6 mi) south, spanning the entire town. Most businesses line the beachside Calle Central, the town’s main drag, or are within walking distance. The town is known for its vibrant surf culture and unparalleled nightlife.

Tamarindo is more commercialized than other remote beach towns. However, the area’s development means you can get by without a rental car, you have access to dining options of varied cuisines and prices, multiple bars are within a walkable radius, and numerous recreational options are at your fingertips.

The downtown core comprises Calle Central, a north-south street that runs parallel to Playa Tamarindo, and Avenida Central, an offshoot of the main drag that runs east-west and perpendicular to the same beach. In the heart of town, Tamarindo Diria is the area’s largest resort complex and a commonly cited point of reference on Calle Central.

Considered an extension of Tamarindo to the southwest is Playa Langosta, a high-end residential village that provides additional accommodations (mainly vacation home rentals), restaurants, and sunbathing and surfing opportunities. Playa Langosta and its eponymous beach are at the end of Calle Cardinal/Avenida España, a side road that branches off Tamarindo’s Avenida Central. A five-minute drive or half-hour walk separates the two destinations.

Horseback Riding

Black Stallion Eco Park

off Road 152/155, 7.5 km (4.6 mi) east of Tamarindo; tel. 506/8869-9765; www.blackstallionhills.com; 8:30am-10pm Mon.-Sat.

Visits to Tamarindo are all about having fun in the sun. But what I love most about this place is that it pays homage to the region’s sabanero roots. Just up the hill from town is the fantastic Black Stallion Eco Park, a ranch where you can explore cowboy culture and take adventure tours all in one spot. Most authentic (and my favorite) are the ranch’s barbecue fiestas, hosted in a rustic all-wood saloon.

The guided adventures offered here include zip-lining, ATV tours, and a rope course called the Monkey Walk. The best option is the Sunset Horseback Ride and Gourmet BBQ Combo (3pm Mon.-Sat.; ride 2-2.5 hours; $98 adults, $75 ages 4-14; min. age 4), a horseback ride through the park’s private 1,500-acre property. The ride ends with a panoramic view of the Tamarindo highlands as the sun goes down, followed by the park’s legendary buffet dinner, a feast of ribs, sausages, chicken, rice, and potatoes hearty enough to feed a hundred cowboys. Drinks, both alcoholic and nonalcoholic, are included.

Beaches

Playa Tamarindo

The light-brown sand of the town’s principal beach, Playa Tamarindo, is almost always speckled with sunbathers, pedestrians, and surfers, but this bustle is part of the beach’s appeal. People looking to socialize congregate here, making Playa Tamarindo the place to be in town. The beach parallels much of Calle Central, ending at the estuary as its northern boundary.

You can swim off Playa Tamarindo, but be aware that this popular surf destination has consistently choppy waters. Lifeguards keep watch 9am-6pm daily.

Playa Langosta

Less frequented than Playa Tamarindo is Playa Langosta, 2 km (1.2 mi) southwest of Tamarindo center. The beige-sand, brush-backed beach is part of a remote territory belonging to Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas (Las Baulas National Marine Park), but it’s free to access. This is a great place to take an undisturbed stroll along the coast, or to sunbathe away from crowds. Swimming isn’t advised due to the strong waves, especially at the south end of the beach near the estuary, where surfers catch waves.

To reach Playa Langosta, take Calle Cardinal west out of Tamarindo (it becomes Avenida España in Playa Langosta village). Just before the Occidental Tamarindo resort, there’s a clearing between the road and the beach. A few parking spots and a wooden gate mark the spot where a short sandy path leads to Playa Langosta.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Surfing

Surfing is the heart of Tamarindo. At least eight worthy surf sites are within paddling reach of Playa Tamarindo, and the range of surf experiences they provide—from a beginner beach break to a 200-m (656-ft) cylindrical barrel—makes Tamarindo’s appeal truly universal. Umpteen surf schools and camps are located here—not to mention instructors offering impromptu lessons. My top two recommendations are Witch’s Rock Surf Camp and Iguana Surf. Both are mainstays in the region, backed by teams of good people.

Witch’s Rock Surf Camp

on Playa Tamarindo, 350 m (0.2 mi) north of Tamarindo Diria; tel. 506/2653-1238; www.witchsrocksurfcamp.com [URL inactive]

Since 2001, Witch’s Rock Surf Camp has been Tamarindo’s premier full-service surf education provider. It has every aspect of the experience covered, from high-quality instruction to hotel accommodations and a restaurant on the beach where you can fuel up when you’re not on the water. Staff provide weeklong surf programs ($1,890-2,030 pp) that target beginner, intermediate, and advanced surfers. The program packages include lodging, breakfast, daily lessons, seminars, video analysis, board rentals, and more. They even design custom family surf vacations and host women-only surf retreats a few times each year. Beginners, don’t miss the graduation party at the end of your stay!

Iguana Surf

Calle Central, 100 m (109 yd) north of Tamarindo Diria; tel. 506/8800-7873; www.iguanasurf.net; 7am-6pm daily

If you’re just interested in taking a class or two, Iguana Surf, a Tamarindo mainstay since 1989, runs three different types of surf lessons (9am, noon, and 3pm daily; 1.5 hours): group (4 students per instructor; $50 pp), semiprivate (2-3 students per instructor; $65 pp), and private (1 student per instructor; $80 pp). Each lesson includes a board and rash guard rental for the duration of the class. If you wish to keep renting the board until the end of the day (or for additional days), as a graduate you’ll pay half the standard rental rate.

Surfing off the Beaten Path

Roughly 18-22 km (11-14 mi) south of Tamarindo (30-40 minutes by car) or 85 km (53 mi) southwest of the Guanacaste Airport (1.5 hours by car) are Playa Avellanas and Playa Negra, two neighboring surf communities that emit a mellow vibe.

The communities and their eponymous beaches have managed to escape the development and attention from tourists. Only a few businesses operate from each community, making either one a suitable option if you want a remote place by the coast. If you’re a surfer looking for stellar surf breaks and some peace and quiet to enjoy them, here’s how to have a surf vacation that’s off the beaten path in one of Costa Rica’s most visited regions.

STAY

• To position yourself close to several restaurants, stay in Playa Negra. Reserve lodging at either Café Playa Negra (900 m/984 yd northeast of the beach at Playa Negra; tel. 506/6084-5053; www.cafeplayanegra.com; $185 s/d) or the more economical Hotel Playa Negra (on Playa Negra; tel. 506/7185-7019; www.playanegra.com; $120 s, $130 d).

• If you’d rather stay in Playa Avellanas, book one of the charming tropical bungalows at the warm and inviting SoulShine (1.3 km/0.8 mi northeast of the beach at Playa Avellanas; tel. 506/8801-4221; www.soulshinecostarica.com; $160 s/d). The lodging has a communal kitchen, so you can prepare your own meals if you’d rather not eat out.

PLAY

• Off Playa Avellanas, surf where most beginner-intermediate surfers do, at the La Purruja, El Parqueo, Las Olas, El Palo (or Palo Seco), and El Estero surf breaks. If you’re a surf pro, walk to the north end of Playa Avellanas (across the river mouth) and surf the beautiful barrels that await at the Little Hawaii point break.

• In Playa Negra, surf the community’s namesake and most notorious break, which is a consistent reef break. For less intimidating surf and fewer onlookers, head to the south end of Playa Negra and surf the beach break known as Callejones.

• Both communities welcome surfers of all skill levels. The fantastic Avellanas Surf School (on Playa Avellanas; tel. 506/7105-8809; www.avellanas-surf-school.com; 8am-6pm daily), which serves guests of Playa Avellanas and Playa Negra, can teach you how to surf or improve your surfing technique if you sign up for one of its surf lessons (lesson times tide dependent; 1.5 hours; $55-75 pp; min. age 6). The team that operates the school is particularly patient with novice surfers and groms (young surfers).

• If all you need is to rent a surfboard or a bike to get around the communities, you can do that at Pargos Adventures (950 m/0.6 mi northeast of the beach at Playa Negra; tel. 506/8356-2038; www.pargosadventures.com; 8am-noon and 1pm-5pm daily), a surf shop in Playa Negra. Budget $20-25 per day for a surfboard rental and $10-15 per day for a bike rental.

DINE, DRINK, AND HANG OUT

• In Playa Negra, before heading out on the water, fuel-up with other surfers at Café Corazón (150 m/164 yd east of the fútbol field in Playa Negra; tel. 506/7107-0978; www.cafecorazon.com; 7:30am-2:30pm Tues.-Sun.; $6-16). The modest roadside café roasts its own sustainably grown coffee and serves energizing smoothie bowls packed with superfoods.

• At Playa Avellanas, you cannot miss the longstanding, open-air Lola’s (on Playa Avellanas; tel. 506/2652-9097; www.lolascostarica.info; 9am-6pm Mon.-Thurs., 9am-7pm Fri.-Sun.; $10-18), the gathering place of many surfers and surf admirers. Enjoy a burger, salad, pizza, or taco at a table on the sand, or grab a drink, kick back in a hammock, and listen to the waves roll in.

If you just need a board, most surf schools and shops in town offer surfboard rentals. Iguana Surf keeps a variety of boards in stock, including shortboards, longboards, and funboard hybrids ($30 per day). It also has boogie boards ($20 per day).

Fishing

Capullo Sportfishing

tel. 506/8569-3516; www.capullo.com; 7am-5pm Sun.-Fri.

Capullo Sportfishing operates directly from Tamarindo and will save you from having to travel far, since its charter boats depart from Playa Tamarindo. The operation is small, with just two boats to choose from, but it offers both inshore and offshore fishing trips. The smaller boat can take three people; excursions start at $550 for a half day. The larger boat can hold 6-7 people; excursions start at $1,050 for a half day.

Papagayo Sportfishing

tel. 506/8991-7289; www.costa-rica-fishingtrips.com

If Capullo doesn’t have openings, consider hiring Papagayo Sportfishing. It’s based at Playas del Coco up the coast, but guides can pick you up in Tamarindo for an extra cost.

Snorkeling and Diving

Freedive Costa Rica

Plaza Conchal, Avenida Central; tel. 506/8353-1290; www.freedivecostarica.com; 7:30am-6:30pm daily

If you have ever tried free diving (also known as apnea diving), you know there is no other experience quite like it. Essentially, you’re diving without the “scuba,” so this exhilarating activity invites you into the underwater world in the least restrictive way possible. The sport is starting to catch on in Costa Rica, and Tamarindo operator Freedive Costa Rica is leading the movement. You can join in by taking a free-diving discovery course ($150 pp; min. age 10) or a two-day PADI-certified free-diving course ($350 pp; min. age 15). If you like to fish, you can combine your free-diving discovery course with one in spearfishing ($290 pp; min. age 18). A valid underwater fishing license ($50 pp) is required to spearfish; the license fee is not included in the cost of the discovery course. You can buy one online through the Instituto Costarricense de Pesca y Acuicultura (Costa Rican Institute of Fisheries and Aquaculture; www.incopesca.go.cr).

Sailing

Marlin del Rey

Plaza Esmeralda, across from Tamarindo Diria; tel. 506/2653-1212; www.marlindelrey.com; 7:30am-7pm daily

Sailing along the Pacific coast is one of my favorite activities. Marlin del Rey provides an unforgettable sailing experience. The operator’s Morning Sailing Tour (8am daily; 4 hours; $75 adults, $65 ages 6-11) and Afternoon Sailing Tour (1:30pm daily; 4 hours; $95 adults, $65 ages 6-11) are opportunities to relax on a catamaran, search for dolphins and other marinelife, and snorkel near the Bahía de los Piratas. A delicious homemade meal and drinks (both alcoholic and nonalcoholic) are included with either tour. On the afternoon tour, you’ll also be treated to a gorgeous sunset (weather permitting).

Stand-Up Paddling

Costa Rica Stand-Up Paddle Adventures

50 m (164 ft) south of Nogui’s; tel. 506/8780-1774; www.costaricasupadventures.com; 10:30am-5:30pm Tues.-Sat., 10:30am-4pm Sun.

Adding to the plethora of water sports in Tamarindo is Costa Rica Stand-Up Paddle Adventures. You’ll often see its boards lined up along the sand or out on flat water as beginners participate in stand-up paddleboarding lessons (2 hours; $85 pp). The company’s most unique offering is lessons in stand-up paddle surfing (2 hours; $85 pp), the ingenious mash-up of stand-up paddling and surfing; it’s a lot harder than it looks! All lesson times are dependent on wind conditions, which can usually be predicted up to one week in advance. Reservations are required; the tour operator can confirm lesson start times a day or two before the lesson date.

Festivals and Events

Tamarindo pulses to hard-hitting techno beats and house music in early-mid January each year when the Ocaso Underground Music Festival (www.ocasofestival.com) takes over the beach town. The multiday party, which is spread out around beachfront bars, hilltop properties, and other venues in town, is one of Costa Rica’s best EDM festivals. Go to dance, lose yourself in flashing lights, and listen to live music spun by top DJs from Costa Rica and around the world.

Shopping

From the northern entrance into town to the rotonda (traffic circle) at the main drag’s southernmost end, countless surf shops sell everything from surfboards and rash guards to general beach accessories, with a handful of souvenirs thrown in.

Diria Grand Boulevard

Calle Central, just south of Tamarindo Diria; tel. 506/2653-4786; 8am-7pm daily

Most of the other shops around town are boutiques selling beachwear, jewelry, and wellness products. A number of these are scattered across Tamarindo’s numerous plazas. For the most concentrated collection, stop by the Diria Grand Boulevard.

Food

S Soda Buffet El Estero

Calle Central, 750 m (820 yd) north of Tamarindo Diria; tel. 506/8316-9188; 11am-4pm daily; price varies by item selection

Foreigner-owned restaurants that serve international cuisines are becoming the norm in Tamarindo, with its large expat population. The town has only a handful of sodas, but one of them, Soda Buffet El Estero, is so good that you won’t need to concern yourself with looking elsewhere. If you’re craving local food, this quaint roadside diner has a smorgasbord full of rice, beans, meats, plantains, salads, and vegetables, and you can pick and choose what you want to eat. Reminiscent of what my Costa Rican in-laws cook for family get-togethers, the food here is literally a taste of Costa Rican culture. Try a little bit of everything and savor all the delicious flavors.

El Mercadito Tamarindo

Calle del Parque; tel. 506/8727-5227; www.mercaditotama.com [URL inactive]; 11am-10pm daily; prices vary by establishment

If you’re craving a specific type of food, I bet you’ll find it at El Mercadito Tamarindo. The classy, 230-sq-m (3,444-sq-ft), outdoor food court draped with strung lights and vines has tables and chairs all around and a hodgepodge of vendors selling all kinds of international foods. Poised to please varied palates, El Mercadito dishes up Italian, French, Asian, Argentinian, Mexican, Venezuelan, and American cuisine.

Flora Vegan Café

Calle Central at Calle Sunrise; tel. 506/6306-5870; 8:30am-6pm Mon.-Sat.; $7-16

My go-to spot for plant-based food is the 100-percent vegan Flora Vegan Café. Off the all-day breakfast menu, the breakfast burrito, with its scrambled tofu, cashew cream cheese, guacamole, pico de gallo, and vegetables, is a delicious way to start any day. The pairing of cauliflower “wings” with craft beer provides an enjoyable way to kick off an evening. Other food and drink choices span healthy bowls and smoothies. The cute, cheery, outdoor café is easy to love but also easy to miss; look for it in an alley between two buildings on Tamarindo’s main drag.

Nogui’s

south end of Calle Central; tel. 506/2653-0029; www.noguistamarindo.com; 7am-9pm daily; $14-24

A visit to the region isn’t complete without a meal or dessert at Nogui’s, a Tamarindo institution. It’s most sought-after for its traditional seafood preparations, but the menu has grown in recent years, so you can also get a fresh ahi poke bowl, a BLT sandwich, and vegan options. Locals rave about the milk shakes and coconut, chocolate, and banana cream pies. The bright-yellow open-air establishment with café-style tables is hard to miss.

S Dragonfly Bar & Grill

Calle Corona, 150 m (164 yd) northeast of Avenida Central; tel. 506/2653-1506; www.dragonflybarandgrill.com; 5:30pm-10pm daily; $16-22

An intimate setting ideal for a romantic dinner, but still casual enough to be family-friendly, is provided by the Dragonfly Bar & Grill. This restaurant serves elevated fish and beef entrées like sesame-seared yellowfin tuna and filet mignon, but it’s also a great place to get sushi and martinis. Several nights a week, there’s relaxing live music, upping the already enjoyable experience of dining at Dragonfly.

S Pangas Beach Club

Calle Central, 750 m (820 yd) north of Tamarindo Diria; tel. 506/2653-0024; www.pangasbeachclubcr.com; noon-2pm and 5pm-10pm daily; $21-31

For an elegant dining experience on the beach, try the Pangas Beach Club. I like going for lunch, when I can take in the restaurant’s view of nearby Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas while dining on prime beef cooked tableside on a slab of volcanic rock; my husband cannot seem to get enough of the smoked salmon lasagna.

S Bars and Nightlife

There’s a lot to do in Tamarindo after dark. Whether it’s to celebrate a day of epic surf with drinks by the ocean, dance late into the evening at a thumping disco, chill out while listening to live music, or take part in fun events at a sports bar, make a point of getting out and exploring the town’s vibrant nightlife. For adults, it’s an integral part of the Tamarindo experience.

Most of the action takes place on the beach, where you can kick back with a cocktail and listen to the waves roll in or enjoy more lively entertainment. By 5pm most days, weather permitting, everyone in town is parked on Playa Tamarindo or one of its many beachfront bars, primed to watch the sunset. Several of the beachfront bars have happy hours and host live music performances and fire shows.

TABÚ

on Playa Tamarindo, near Calle Cruz; tel. 506/7103-6269; www.tabutamarindo.com; 7am-10pm daily

One of my favorite spots to grab drinks on Playa Tamarindo is TABÚ, at the south end of town. Although casual, this establishment is a tad classier than the row of beachfront bars that sit up the coast near the center of Tamarindo, so it’s a good option if you want to take in the sunset or enjoy drinks by the water with a splash of style. The must-try drink here is the sangria.

CATA

south end of Calle Central; tel. 506/8529-4250; www.catacostarica.com; 4pm-midnight Wed.-Mon.

CATA is Costa Rica’s best agave bar and a cool place to relax. At its second-floor home above Nogui’s, you can learn about mezcal and tequila—two derivatives of the agave plant—and take in a view of the beach while sipping varieties of either type of alcohol in cocktails or as part of a tasting flight. Mocktails are also served, and cocktail classes and dance lessons are offered on occasion.

El Vaquero Pub

Witch’s Rock Surf Camp, Playa Tamarindo; tel. 506/2653-1238; 11am-midnight daily

At the north end of Playa Tamarindo is the outdoor, family-friendly El Vaquero Pub, the preferred gathering place of surfers. It’s also your best bet for locally brewed artisanal beer. The pale and dark ales are crafted by the pub’s own Volcano Brewing Company.

Lizard Lounge

Avenida Central, 200 m (219 yd) south of Calle Central; tel. 506/8345-1604; 11am-midnight Tues.-Fri., 9am-midnight Sat.-Sun.

Under new management, the Lizard Lounge is a chic tapas bar where you can pair wine and cocktails with bougie fare ranging from fried Oreos to full charcuterie boards. This hangout spot is away from the beach and one of few bars in Tamarindo that has air-conditioning.

Crazy Monkey Bar

Calle Central, 500 m (0.3 mi) north of Tamarindo Diria; tel. 506/2653-0114; 8pm-2am Fri.; cover $5

On Fridays the poolside Crazy Monkey Bar, at the north end of Tamarindo, up a long staircase at the Tamarindo Vista Villas, invites patrons to dance to a live salsa band, gaze at a laser show, and dress up for theme nights. Cover charges apply for some events.

Accommodations

La Botella de Leche

Avenida Central at Calle Rocks; tel. 506/2653-0189; www.botelladeleche.com; dorm $25, private room $85 s/d

If you’re in the market for an inexpensive night’s stay, check out La Botella de Leche. It has an eight-bed dorm equipped with lockers, private rooms that sleep up to five, service-minded staff, and a social vibe—until it’s lights out and music off at 11pm. It also has air-conditioning and a pool, and a prime location in town a mere 500 m (0.3 mi) up the road from Playa Tamarindo.

S Ten North

Calle del Parque, 100 m (109 yd) east of Avenida Central; tel. 506/2653-1110; www.tennorthtamarindo.com; room $150 s/d, apartment $175 s/d

A mid-range lodging you can’t go wrong with is Ten North. This fairly priced, 16-room, two-story hotel is an urban jungle oasis: Palm trees tower over the pool, the rooms are airy and painted in soothing pastels, and the property feels remote despite being in Tamarindo center. Rooms have one or two queen beds; one- and two-bedroom apartments with kitchenettes sleep three and five, respectively. Appreciated added touches are the beautiful unique headboards, handcrafted with different kinds of wood, and the in-room white noise machines that drown out sounds from the town for a restful night’s sleep.

Tamarindo Bay Boutique Hotel

Calle Cruz at Calle Loretta; tel. 506/2653-2692; www.tamarindobayhotel.com; $225 s/d

Completely enclosed, speckled with several outdoor lounging areas, intimate and with a Zen vibe, the small-scale adults-only Tamarindo Bay Boutique Hotel feels more like a spa than a hotel. The luxurious oversize rooms, the property’s contemporary style, and the spectacular service are Tamarindo Bay’s standout features, but you’ll also love the lap pool, open-air exercise space with complimentary workout gear, and made-to-order gourmet breakfast.

S Tamarindo Diria

on Playa Tamarindo; tel. 506/2653-0032; www.tamarindodiria.com; $249 s/d

Taking up much of the town’s center is the 242-room resort complex Tamarindo Diria. Essentially three hotels in one, Tamarindo Diria comprises the Sunset Village buildings, on the west side of Calle Central and with beachfront rooms, and the Family Poolview and adults-only Tropicana buildings, on the east side of Calle Central and with additional rooms tucked back from Playa Tamarindo. This sprawling resort provides everything you might want—10 restaurants and bars, five pools, attentive and warm customer service, a central location in the heart of Tamarindo, and a big breakfast buffet that won’t leave you hungry. All rooms impress guests with beds as soft as clouds, flat-screen TVs, air-conditioning, and spotless baths. Tropicana Village is an adults-only section that provides a more intimate stay, but the remainder of the complex is family-friendly.

S Jardín del Eden

100 m (109 yd) east of Playa Tamarindo at Tamarindo Diria; tel. 506/4070-0303; www.jardindeleden.com; $300 s/d

Sister to Tamarindo Diria, the lovely adults-only Jardín del Eden is its own little paradise with pretty gardens, a tranquil pool, and plenty of thatched-roofed cabanas equipped with queen daybeds perfect for lounging. Each of the hotel’s 46 rooms has a king bed, soft lighting, tropical decor, and a romantic feel. Although the property isn’t on the beach, a direct path from the hotel leads to Playa Tamarindo via a private waterfront garden shared with Tamarindo Diria. Breakfast and a three-course dinner are included in the rates.

Cala Luna Boutique Hotel

off Calle Guapinol, 100 m (109 yd) east of Playa Langosta; tel. 506/2653-0214; www.calaluna.com; room $468 s/d, villa $950 s/d

To escape Tamarindo’s bustle but remain close by, station yourself in Playa Langosta. The sublime boho-chic Cala Luna Boutique Hotel provides a relaxing stay and activities that will rejuvenate your mind, body, and spirit. Yoga, Pilates, and sound bath meditations are provided on-site; additional activities, including labyrinth walks and healing ceremonies, take place at La Senda (www.lasendacostarica.com), Cala Luna’s off-site wellness center. The romantic, flora-wrapped bungalow-style rooms and multiroom villas have king or queen beds, spacious baths with a double vanity, and comfortable outdoor seating areas. Each villa also has a full kitchen and a private pool.

Information and Services

The hospital that serves most of the northern Pacific coast’s communities is Hospital Enrique Baltodano Briceño (Avenida 9, between Calle 13 and Calle 17, Liberia; tel. 506/2690-2300; 24 hours daily) in Liberia, a 75-km (47-mi), 75-minute drive northeast of Tamarindo. Ebais Villareal (4 km/2.5 mi east of Tamarindo center; tel. 506/2653-0736; 7am-4pm Mon.-Fri.), the closest clinic to Tamarindo, is 15 minutes east of Tamarindo in the small village of Villareal.

Villareal also has a post office (3 km/1.9 mi east of Tamarindo center; tel. 506/2653-0676; 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Fri.) and a police station (3 km/1.9 mi east of Tamarindo center; tel. 506/2244-6173; 24 hours daily).

Downtown Tamarindo has a handful of pharmacies, including Farmacia Pacífico (Calle Central across from the Diria Grand Boulevard; tel. 506/2653-0711; 9am-8pm daily), as well as supermarkets, banks, and ATMs, along Calle Central and Avenida Central. The biggest bank in town, which provides an ATM, is Banco Nacional (Avenida Central, 350 m/0.2 mi south of Calle Central; tel. 506/2653-1724; 8:30am-3:45pm Mon.-Fri.).

The closest gas station is 7 km (4.3 mi) northeast of Tamarindo on Road 155, 2 km (1.2 mi) north of the village of Villareal.

Getting There

Air

The fastest way to get to Tamarindo is a domestic flight to Aeropuerto Tamarindo (TNO). SANSA Airlines (tel. 506/2290-4100; www.flysansa.com) flies to Tamarindo from San José.

Boat

Small boats commute between Tamarindo and Playa Grande multiple times dawn-dusk daily. They do not operate according to set schedules or accept reservations. You can hire one of these boats at either of two docks in Playa Grande (The Grateful Hotel or the southernmost end of Playa Grande). The boat will take you to the dock in Tamarindo (northernmost end of town, near the Pangas Beach Club). Expect to pay $2-6 pp for a brief 5- to 15-minute ride, depending on where you depart from. Some boat captains speak English and others do not. To hire a captain, ask: “¿Por favor, me puede llevar a Tamarindo?” (“Can you please take me to Tamarindo?”). To confirm the cost of the service, also ask: “¿Cuánto cobra por el viaje?” (“How much do you charge for the trip?”).

Car

The drive to Tamarindo from other parts of Guanacaste is easy, thanks to favorable road conditions and significant signage. To get to Tamarindo from Liberia, it’s a 75-km (47-mi), 75-minute drive southwest on Highway 21, Road 155, and Avenida de las Palmas, a side road that leads into town from the village of Villareal.

From San José, it’s a 290-km (180-mi), 4.5-hour drive to Tamarindo, heading west on Highways 1, 18, and 21, Roads 160 and 152, and Avenida de las Palmas. From Playa Flamingo, it’s a 25-km (15.5-mi), 30-minute drive to Tamarindo, heading south on Roads 180 and 155 and Avenida de las Palmas.

Bus

You can reach Tamarindo by public bus from Liberia or San José. The bus can drop you off at the bus stop in Tamarindo (Calle Central, 150 m/164 yd north of Tamarindo Diria).

Organized Tour

A few adventure and nature tours by Tenorio Adventure Company (Hwy. 1 at Río Corobicí, 5 km/3.1 mi northwest of Cañas; tel. 506/2668-8203; www.tenorioadventurecompany.com; 8am-10pm daily) include post-tour onward transportation to Tamarindo. White-water rafting tours, safari float tours, and hiking tours to Río Celeste at Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio can be arranged to include a pickup from your hotel in La Fortuna, Monteverde, or a variety of Guanacaste beach towns, then a drop-off at your hotel in Tamarindo.

Private Transfer or Shared Shuttle Service

Many private transfer services travel to and from Tamarindo daily, including my top two recommendations: Ecotrans Costa Rica (tel. 506/2654-5151; www.ecotranscostarica.com) and Tamarindo Transfers & Tours (tel. 506/2653-4444; www.tamarindoshuttle.com). Prices vary by departure destination, but from San José, the cost is approximately $300.

Both Ecotrans Costa Rica and Tamarindo Transfers & Tours also provide shared shuttle services to Tamarindo, as does Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com). Together, the three companies cover routes to Tamarindo from Liberia, San José, Rincón de la Vieja, La Fortuna, Monteverde, beach towns on the Nicoya Peninsula, and Jacó and Manuel Antonio on the central Pacific coast. From San José, the one-way service costs roughly $50 pp. You’re welcome to travel with a surfboard on the shuttles, provided you get preapproval; a surfboard surcharge might apply.

Getting Around

Tamarindo’s roads are flat, paved, and lined with parking spaces. Although Tamarindo has a few taxis, the most common way to explore the town is on foot.

ATVs, golf carts, and bicycles provide other ways of getting around. Action Tours (Avenida Central at Rocks Street; tel. 506/8514-4707; www.atvtamarindo.com; 8am-6pm daily) has a big selection of ATV rentals ($150 for 4 hours) as well as UTV rentals ($280 for 4 hours). Earth Gear & Carts (tel. 506/4000-3826; www.earthgeartamarindo.com; 8am-5pm daily) has electric golf cart rentals ($75-100 per day); each golf cart rental includes the use of two foldable beach chairs for free.

The dual bar and bike shop HandleBar (Calle Cardinal, 75 m/246 ft west of Avenida Central; tel. 506/8729-8279; www.handlebartamarindo.com; noon-10pm Tues.-Sun.) has good-quality bike rentals ($10-50 per day) that include a helmet and a lock.

PLAYA GRANDE

Opposite Tamarindo to the south, the mellow beach town of Playa Grande is 3 km (1.9 mi) north of the estuary. Playa Grande has two distinct ends. Access to the north end, considered the community’s center, is provided by Road 933. It enters the area from the east, passes through the sparse community, and ends at the town’s namesake beach. Steps from where Road 933 meets the beach is the park’s Ministry of Environment and Energy (MINAE) office, the best point of reference in Playa Grande. The south end of Playa Grande occupies a land spit created by the estuary. It contains a residential community known as Palm Beach Estates, with a few noteworthy establishments and estuary docks. An unnamed dirt road connects the two areas, approximately 2 km (1.2 mi) from each other.

Quiet Playa Grande is no ordinary coastal community. It is part of Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas, formerly one of the world’s top nesting sites of leatherback sea turtles. (Park regulations prohibit the construction of beachfront establishments in Playa Grande; expect establishments to be at least 100 m/109 yd from the sand.) Although the park receives fewer turtles with each passing year, Playa Grande’s chill vibe, great surf, proximity to Tamarindo, and eclectic mix of accommodations and restaurants provide reasons for choosing the beach community over others in the Northern Pacific region.

Beaches

Within Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas, activities like sunbathing and walking along the shore must be conducted with care to prevent damage to the protected area. The park remains mindful of potential turtle nesting cycles; to minimize disruption to the cycles, public beach access is prohibited 5pm-6am daily October-late February or early March.

Playa Grande

Playa Grande, the town’s namesake beach, is one of Costa Rica’s biggest and barest beaches. It offers plenty of light-brown sand to stretch out on, but hardly any shade. Swim at your own risk, as strong rip currents plague the area.

Playa Ventanas

Just up the coast, the smaller and more rugged Playa Ventanas has shaded areas and calmer water ideal for swimming. You can walk to the south end of Playa Ventanas via a beach trail from Playa Grande; it’s a 1-km (0.6-mi), half-hour walk from where Road 933 meets the beach. To access the north end, take the back road that begins just south of the MINAE office and leads northwest out of town. After 1 km (0.6 mi), where the road dead-ends at another back road, turn left and continue driving for another kilometer until you reach the parking lot at the beach. The entire route takes roughly five minutes.

Surfing

Although Tamarindo (a half-hour drive from Playa Grande) is known as the surfing mecca in Guanacaste, Playa Grande, with its year-round waves, comes in a close second.

Frijoles Locos

500 m (0.3 mi) north of the beach at Playa Grande; tel. 506/2652-9235; www.playagrandesurfshop.com [URL inactive]; 8:30am-5:30pm daily

Frijoles Locos, in the center of Playa Grande, is a reputable surf school, surf shop, tour concierge, and spa. It runs three types of surf lessons (on the hour 9am-4pm daily; 1.5 hours): group (4 students per instructor; min. age 12; $40 pp), semiprivate (2-3 students per instructor; $60 pp), and private (1 student per instructor; $120 pp). The semiprivate and private lessons are ideal for couples, small families, and children under age 12. Operating since 2008, this outfitter knows not only how to maneuver the area’s swells but also how to avoid its difficult current to keep surfers safe.

Matos Surf Shop

Road 933, Playa Grande center; tel. 506/2652-9227; www.matossurfshop.com; 8am-7pm daily

Born in the early 2000s, Matos Surf Shop excels at providing high-quality surf photos and videos. Reach out to the shop’s crew to arrange a private photo or video session that captures you tackling Playa Grande’s waves or runs at other popular surf sites in Guanacaste. Sessions range from two hours to a full day; prices vary depending on the services requested and the shooting location. Even if you’re a beginner surfer, the photos and videos make great souvenirs. Matos Surf Shop also functions as a full-fledged surf store, where you can rent boards, take surf lessons, and sign up for surf tours. Unique to this shop is its lineup of sustainable SurfCycled surfboards that you can purchase or rent. The boards are premium versions of their former selves and are upcycled in-house by the shop’s eco-minded staff.

Playa Grande Surf Camp

3 km (1.8 mi) south of Playa Grande center, Palm Beach Estates; tel. 506/2653-1074; www.playagrandesurfcamp.com

The best surf camp in the area, and one of the most affordable surf camps in the country, is the Playa Grande Surf Camp. Weeklong high-value surf packages ($800 pp) include accommodations, breakfast or lunch, six surf lessons, and board rentals. The surf lessons are open to beginner and intermediate surfers, and the accommodations are dormitory-style in the camp’s air-conditioned second-floor loft, but it’s possible to upgrade your package if you’d prefer a private room. Perfectly suited for relaxed Playa Grande, the surf camp is a small but well-organized operation that prioritizes student experience through tailored instruction.

Boat Tours

The estuary at Río Matapalo separates Playa Grande (to the north) from Tamarindo (to the south). It weaves through a maze of tangled mangrove tree roots belonging to Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas and can be toured by panga (a small boat that typically seats up to eight people), kayak, or canoe. Peaceful floats through the waterway provide an opportunity to spot monkeys, crocodiles, iguanas, and plenty of birds.

You can arrange tours rather informally at the dock beyond Playa Grande’s The Grateful Hotel, or else have your Playa Grande lodging arrange one for you in advance. Prices are negotiable, but expect to pay at least $25 pp for a tour of 2-2.5 hours. Tours also depart from the Tamarindo side of the estuary, but you’ll pay $40-70 pp for the same experience.

Food and Accommodations

Café Mar Azul

3 km (1.8 mi) south of Playa Grande center, Palm Beach Estates; tel. 506/2215-3277; 8am-9pm Wed.-Mon.; $8-16

Café Mar Azul, conveniently next to El Manglar and the Playa Grande Surf Camp and steps away from the beach, is my favorite place to eat in Palm Beach Estates. The small laid-back restaurant, built around and partly concealed by large trees, has a front patio with wooden tables and chairs with a view of the lively open-concept kitchen. Primarily Costa Rican and Mexican food is served. During high season, when Palm Beach Estates swells with expats, the restaurant gets busy. Go early to get a table, and be prepared for above-average wait times.

El Huerto

Road 933, Playa Grande center; tel. 506/2653-1259; www.elhuertodeplayagrande.com; 1pm-9pm daily; $13-23

When you’re hungry, head to El Huerto. Mixing casual dining with a sophisticated ambience, this restaurant features hanging lanterns, tropical plants, and beautifully crafted tables made from giant tree trunks. Its menu covers all the bases—salads, seafood, meat, pizza, and decadent desserts—but locals swear the linguine is the best around.

El Manglar

3 km (1.8 mi) south of Playa Grande center, Palm Beach Estates; tel. 506/2653-0952; www.hotel-manglar.com; room $100 s/d, villa $140 s/d

A 10-minute drive from Playa Grande center, the quiet, secluded-feeling, low-rise boutique hotel El Manglar is a fabulous find. Contiguous villas occupy the main floor, and standard rooms, up flights of stairs, fill the upper levels. The rooms (for 1-4 people) are comfy but snug; they’re a decent option if you don’t plan on spending much time at the hotel. Otherwise, book one of the villas. They are spacious, face the lovely landscaped pool area, and have fully equipped kitchens and covered front patios with seating and a hammock A short trail with gated access connects the hotel to the beach and a shala, where El Manglar hosts peaceful morning yoga classes.

RipJack Inn

100 m (109 yd) south of the MINAE office; tel. 506/4034-3240; www.ripjackinn.com; $165 s/d

Fresh off a few renovations, I love this boutique hotel’s 25 eclectic rooms; each one is different, but most embrace soothing pastel color palettes and have crisp white bed linens that give the relaxing spaces a comfortable beachy feel. Some rooms are grouped together in stand-alone buildings, perfect for families or groups desiring their own space. A teak wood yoga shala, where the hotel runs yoga classes and retreats, adds to this place’s uniqueness. The RipJack is named after the kind owners’ beloved past dogs—Ripley and Jack—so it comes as no surprise that pets are welcome at the hotel (with prior approval).

Information and Services

The hospital that serves most of the northern Pacific coast’s communities is Hospital Enrique Baltodano Briceño (Avenida 9, between Calle 13 and Calle 17, Liberia; tel. 506/2690-2300; 24 hours daily) in Liberia, a 75-km (47-mi), 75-minute drive northeast of Playa Grande.

The town’s supermarket, known as the Palm Beach Market (tel. 506/4701-4240; 9am-5pm Mon.-Sat.), is in Palm Beach Estates.

The closest gas station is 10 km (6.2 mi) northeast of Playa Grande, on Road 155 in the village of Huacas.

Getting There

Playa Grande is best accessed by car. To get there from downtown San José, it’s a 275-km (170-mi), 4.5-hour drive west via Highways 1, 18, and 21 and Roads 160, 152/155, and 933. From Liberia, it’s a 75-km (47-mi), 75-minute drive southwest on Highway 21, Road 155, and Road 933. Playa Grande is a 20-km (12.4-mi), half-hour drive southwest from Playa Flamingo via Roads 180 and 933, through the village of Huacas and the hamlet of Matapalo.

From Tamarindo, the 20-km (12.4 mi), half-hour drive to Playa Grande loops around national park land on Avenida de las Palmas and Roads 155, 180, and 933. This route also passes through Huacas and Matapalo. You can also reach Playa Grande from Tamarindo by taking a boat across the estuary. Small boats commute between Tamarindo and Playa Grande multiple times sunrise-sunset daily. They do not operate according to set schedules or accept reservations. You can hire one of these boats at the dock in Tamarindo (at the northernmost end of town, near the Pangas Beach Club). It will take you to one of two docks in Playa Grande (The Grateful Hotel or the southernmost end of Playa Grande); specify your preference to the boat captain. Expect to pay $2-6 pp for the 5- to 15-minute ride. Some boat captains speak English and others do not. To hire a captain, ask: “¿Por favor, me puede llevar a Playa Grande?” (“Can you please take me to Playa Grande?”). To confirm the cost of the service, also ask: “¿Cuánto cobra por el viaje?” (“How much do you charge for the trip?”).

Getting Around

To help you get around town, the outfitter and gear shop Frijoles Locos (500 m/0.3 mi north of the beach at Playa Grande; tel. 506/2652-9235; www.playagrandesurfshop.com [URL inactive]; 8:30am-5:30pm daily) has beach cruiser bike rentals (from $15 per day).

Nicoya Peninsula

HIGHLIGHTS

MAP: NICOYA PENINSULA

ORIENTATION

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Itinerary Ideas

SOAKING UP THE SUN IN SÁMARA

SANTA TERESA AND MONTEZUMA IN TWO DAYS

Nosara and Vicinity

MAP: NOSARA AND VICINITY

NOSARA

REFUGIO NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE OSTIONAL

Sámara and Carrillo

MAP: SÁMARA AND CARRILLO

MAP: SÁMARA

BEACHES

RECREATION

SHOPPING

FOOD

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

ACCOMMODATIONS

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

GETTING THERE

GETTING AROUND

Parque Nacional Barra Honda

VISITING THE PARK

HIKING

SPELUNKING THE TERCIOPELO CAVE

GETTING THERE

Montezuma and Vicinity

MAP: MONTEZUMA AND VICINITY

MONTEZUMA

RESERVA NATURAL ABSOLUTA CABO BLANCO

REFUGIO NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE CURÚ

S ISLA TORTUGA

Santa Teresa, Carmen, and Malpaís

MAP: SANTA TERESA, CARMEN, AND MALPAÍS

BEACHES

RECREATION

FOOD

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

ACCOMMODATIONS

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

GETTING THERE

GETTING AROUND

Highlights

Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.

S View sea turtles nesting at the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional (click here).

S Watch the sun set over a crescent coast at Playa Carrillo (click here).

S Dine at beachside restaurants in Sámara (click here).

S Soak in waterfall pools at the Cataratas Montezuma (click here).

S Take a day trip to Isla Tortuga, a postcard-worthy paradise (click here).

S Swim, snorkel, and spy on bats at Playa Los Suecos (click here).

S Get your Zen on at surf and yoga retreats in Santa Teresa (click here).

It’s 5:30pm and the sun is setting over western Costa Rica. Surfers line up in the Pacific Ocean, eager to ride the day’s last waves. Sunbathers relax on sand that glows in colorful hues under an iridescent sky. Yogis stretch out in peaceful shalas and welcome nightfall with a gentle “Namaste.” This is the Nicoya Peninsula, a corner of the country where water, land, and spirit come together.

An assortment of travelers gathers in the beach towns that outline the peninsula. First-time and lifelong surfers, soul searchers, health nuts, socialites, artists, and bohemians are drawn to the region for different reasons, but they share a common interest in its slow-paced way of life and buenas vibras (good vibes). Regardless of which coastal destination you choose, it will rid you of stress the moment you roll into town.

The region’s calm and positive vibe materializes in many forms. Resorts here are typically small-scale boutique hotels. Health food restaurants and shops are the norm, not anomalies. Organized tours are less popular than surf lessons, yoga classes, retreats, and other opportunities to better yourself or your skills. If you don’t have a checklist of things to do or see while in Costa Rica, the Nicoya Peninsula is the place for you.

ORIENTATION

The broad, mountainous Nicoya Peninsula juts off Costa Rica’s western side and curves south around the mainland. Thought of as its own region, the peninsula is part of Guanacaste province (in the northwest) and part of Puntarenas province (in the southeast). The provincial divide loosely follows the north-south run of Road 162, splitting the peninsula into two distinct halves: the northern Nicoya Peninsula, including Ostional, Nosara, Sámara, and Carrillo; and the southern Nicoya Peninsula, including Montezuma, Santa Teresa, Carmen, and Malpaís. Most visitors pick one sector to travel in. While it is possible to travel from one half to the other via Highway 21, you’ll need at least half a day to do so.

Road 150, a predominantly straight inland route that leads to the coast at Sámara, and Road 160, a winding coastal road that passes through the waterfront communities of Ostional, Nosara, and Carrillo, are the main thoroughfares in the northern half of the peninsula. In the southern half, the principal route begins as Highway 21 but becomes the southern branch of Road 160 after passing the ferry terminal at Playa Naranjo. It curves south around the peninsula, past side roads that lead to Montezuma, Santa Teresa, Carmen, and Malpaís, then travels northwest up the coast for roughly 70 km (43 mi) before meeting popular destinations in the northern half of the peninsula. Due to poor road conditions and several required river crossings (some of which are impassable during the low season), travel on Road 160 between Carrillo (in the northern half of the peninsula) and the turnoff to Santa Teresa, Carmen, and Malpaís (in the southern half of the peninsula) is not recommended.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

The Nicoya Peninsula offers opportunities to relax. Visits to the peninsula are less about seeing and doing as much as possible and more about taking time to nourish yourself. To enjoy one or more of the peninsula’s beautiful beaches, stay for at least several days. Whether you plan to practice yoga, surf, socialize, or seek solitude, the more time you have to let the Nicoya Peninsula work its rejuvenating magic on you, the better.

You’ll need one day to visit key destinations like Isla Tortuga or Parque Nacional Barra Honda. Most of the region’s other highlights don’t adhere to specific time lines. Spend as much or as little time as you want getting to know the community of Nosara, enjoying meals and beverages on the beach in Sámara, relaxing at Playa Carrillo (plan to be there at sunset), hiking around the Cataratas Montezuma, or swimming at Playa Los Suecos (aim for low tide to climb around Punta Murciélago).

Independent surfing and yoga practice are possible from sunup to sundown. If you need more structure, you’ll need to plan ahead and be patient: Surf lessons can depend on the tide, and yoga classes run according to set schedules. Organized surf and yoga retreats are multiday or sometimes multiweek programs.

To witness sea turtles nesting in the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional, give yourself several days in the northern region of the Nicoya Peninsula. Be flexible, as turtle activity can be difficult to predict.

Closures of restaurants, bars, and shops in the peninsula’s beach towns are common late in the low season, especially September-November but sometimes as early as August. Accommodations and tour operators tend to remain open year-round.

Weather and Transportation

The Nicoya Peninsula is loved in part for its favorable climate. Between December and July, the region is hot—temperatures average over 27°C (80°F)—famously sunny, and dry. Rainfall is most significant September-October, which is also when road conditions are worst.

Despising the peninsula’s roads is as common as loving its pristine beaches. Some thoroughfares are paved highways and a pleasure to drive, but others will test your patience and driving abilities. Having a 4WD vehicle is a must in areas where dirt roads, steep inclines or declines, and river crossings are common. Ongoing roadwork aims to maintain or improve the most popular routes in the region (sections of Highway 21, and Road 160 between Sámara and Ostional), but in remote areas, especially the stretch between Carrillo and Santa Teresa, the roads are the worst.

Itinerary Ideas

SOAKING UP THE SUN IN SÁMARA

Embody Sámara’s laid-back vibe with this one-day itinerary that explores the beach town leisurely.

1 Dedicate a few hours in the early morning for water recreation on the bay at Playa Sámara before taking the rest of the day to relax. Paddle out to Isla Chora in a kayak or on a stand-up paddleboard alongside a guide from Sámara Adventures, or learn how to surf in the bay’s calm waters with the help of an instructor from Pato’s Surf School.

2 Afterward, stroll around Sámara’s core to see its many establishments and get a feel for the local lifestyle. Shop at Sámara Organics if you’re on the hunt for unique items that make great souvenirs.

3 Return to Playa Sámara and walk along the beach to the restaurant Bahía. Order one of the seafood dishes for lunch and enjoy it by the waterfront while listening to the waves roll in.

4 Drive or take a taxi out to Playa Carrillo and spend the afternoon swimming and sunbathing at the beach. Stay to see a colorful sunset, then return to Sámara.

5 For dinner, get barbecued food at the waterfront restaurant El Lagarto. With some luck, a poi show on the beach will entertain you while you eat.

6 Finish off the day with a cold beer at Limey’s.

SANTA TERESA AND MONTEZUMA IN TWO DAYS

A few of Costa Rica’s top experiences cluster around the tip of the Nicoya Peninsula between the beach towns of Santa Teresa and Montezuma. This two-day itinerary explores them, with Santa Teresa serving as the home base.

Day 1

1 Ease into the morning in Santa Teresa with the gentle practice of yoga, either on your own at Playa Santa Teresa or during a drop-in yoga class at Casa Zen.

2 Ride a bike or ATV to Playa Los Suecos in nearby Malpaís. Give yourself a few hours to bask in the sun, soak in the lovely tide pools, and hear the bats at Punta Murcielago.

3 Return to Santa Teresa but stop along the way at Tierra Mar to enjoy a traditional—but elevated—Costa Rican casado for lunch.

4 In the afternoon, immerse yourself in Santa Teresa’s surf culture. Take a surf lesson with Del Soul Surf School if you want to learn the sport; otherwise, paddle out to the surf breaks at Suck Rock or La Lora if you’re an experienced surfer, or park yourself on bustling Playa Carmen and watch surfers of all skill levels tackle the area’s most populated break.

5 For dinner, feast on Italian food at Amici, ideally at a table on the restaurant’s garden-clad courtyard.

6 In the evening, sip drinks and listen to live music by the water at the restaurant and bar Banana Beach.

Day 2

1 To try your luck at seeing birds and wildlife while on the peninsula, sign up for a morning guided hike through the forested Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco. Go with the tour operator Tropical Tours Shuttles, who services the Santa Teresa and Montezuma areas, and have them drop you off in Montezuma after the tour.

2 The hike through Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco may deplete your energy level. Replenish it with a healthy, plant-based lunch in Montezuma at Restaurante Sano Banano.

3 Walk 15 minutes south of the restaurant to the trailhead for Cataratas Montezuma and take the entrance trail that leads to the lower fall. Spend up to three hours swimming and relaxing at the base of the waterfall, then take a taxi or a private transfer service back to Santa Teresa.

4 Dine on delicious Asian food at the sophisticated restaurant Satori for dinner. Afterward, grab cocktails up the road at Drift Bar.

5 If you’re in the mood to be social, attend one of the fun nighttime events hosted by Selina Santa Teresa North.

Nosara and Vicinity

In the remote northwest corner of the Nicoya Peninsula are Nosara, Pelada, and Guiones, a trio of tight-knit villages speckled with sublime surf spots and yoga studios. Less than ideal road conditions deter the growth of tourism, helping the community maintain its small-town neighborly feel. But visitors still find their way here, including devoted wave runners in search of inspiring swells, soul searchers in pursuit of inner peace, and wildlife enthusiasts eager to see olive ridley turtles nesting north of Nosara in the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional.

NOSARA

Spend a few days around Nosara and you’ll learn what makes this down-to-earth coastal destination such a rewarding place to escape to. The area is home to steady surf, pale and silky sand, and a soothing yogic vibe.

The community’s safety, conservation, and sustainability efforts, carried out by a range of civic and nonprofit groups, make Nosara a well-kept, stress-free destination. Nightly quiet hours, starting around 10pm, keep the place calm after dark.

Essentially three communities in one, the area referred to as Nosara comprises the Tico-inhabited inland village of Nosara (to the north), the low-key community of Pelada (in the middle), and the area’s hopping tourist hub at Guiones (in the south). Guiones can be further divided into downtown Guiones, sometimes mapped as Center Guiones, which provides the most direct route to the ocean, and North Guiones. Just north of Nosara village, the Río Nosara (Nosara River) flows east-west to the ocean. The river marks the north end of the Nosara region.

Most foreigners choose either Guiones or Pelada as their base. Both locations are dotted with restaurants and have bars that showcase the area’s small live-music scene. Most tourism offices and shops are at Guiones, the commercial core of Nosara and where avid surfers gather to brave the break at Playa Guiones.

It’s an 8-km (5 mi) hike from Playa Guiones to the north end of Nosara. Choose a lodging in the neighborhood you plan to spend the most time in to minimize travel while in the area. If you intend to hop between Nosara, Pelada, and Guiones frequently, having a rental vehicle is advantageous.

Road 160, the area’s principal throughway, follows much of the Nicoya Peninsula’s coastline from as far south as Carrillo to north of Ostional; it also connects Guiones, Pelada, and Nosara village.

Beaches

With the exception of Playa Garza, Nosara’s beaches are part of the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional, where sea turtles are known to nest. To minimize disruption to nesting cycles and harm to the turtles, public access to beaches within the refuge is prohibited 9pm-5am daily.

Playa Guiones

Wide-open Playa Guiones, which fronts the community of Guiones, is Nosara’s biggest attraction. Surfers, swimmers, stand-up paddlers, boogie boarders, beach walkers, and sunbathers occupy the area. This beach is full of swoon-worthy light sand but not much shade. My favorite thing about this beautiful beach is the endless trails of sand ripples hiding under the shallow clear water. The calm scene is a contrast to the big waves that curl offshore and offer the region’s best surf.

A path on the beach’s north end leads to Playa Pelada, which is separated from Playa Guiones by Punta Pelada, a small rocky headland. You may hear locals refer to the south end of Playa Guiones as Baker’s Beach. Punta Guiones, a vegetation-covered headland that divides Baker’s Beach from Playa Garza, is the southern boundary of the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional. Baker’s Beach has a notorious rip current. Stick to the north or center section of Playa Guiones if you want to swim.

Playa Pelada

Nosara has a number of free, public, and well-marked trails. A path at the south end of small tree-backed Playa Pelada connects it with Playa Guiones, making beach-hopping a breeze. Great for swimming near the shore, Playa Pelada is a local hot spot where Costa Rican children play in tide pools and adults kick soccer balls around. The light-sand beach is decorated with fishing boats, hides caves at its north end (accessible from the shore during low tide), and has a blowhole halfway down the beach that shoots water up like a geyser from a rocky outcrop. Watch for rip currents if you venture farther out into the ocean.

Playa Garza

Less than a 15-minute drive south of Guiones (a 25-minute drive from Nosara) is one of my favorite beaches in all of Costa Rica: Playa Garza. Curving around the calm Bahía Garza, the beach has nearly white sand and fronts tropical waters that gleam in shades from turquoise to royal blue. Usually only fisherfolk frequent the spot, which offers shade under almendro (almond) trees, a few parking spaces, a small playground for children, and no other distractions. It’s the perfect getaway spot, with the ocean practically empty and a beach you can lie on without being disturbed.

The bull statue you’ll see on the hill on the north side of Playa Garza is a tribute to the legendary Malacrianza, Costa Rica’s most notorious (and sometimes deadly) bull that dominated the national bull-riding circuit until 2013. The powerful, prodigious, stern-eyed bull originally hailed from the Garza area.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Surfing

Nosara is known for its consistent surf. The long beach break (with lefts and rights) that parallels much of Playa Guiones turns out impressive waves the entire year. Surfers of all skill levels are welcome in the lineups; some sections are ideal for beginners, and others challenge even experienced riders.

Coconut Harry’s Surf Shop

Road 160, at the main road to Playa Guiones, downtown Guiones; tel. 506/2682-0574; www.coconutharrys.com; 8am-5pm daily

Novice surfers gravitate toward Coconut Harry’s Surf Shop. This iconic trendy surf shop at Guiones’s main intersection is stocked with beach gear and surf accessories. It carries the area’s largest and most diverse inventory of surfboard rentals ($25-35 per day) and employs a fun group of instructors who teach daily surf lessons (adult lessons 1.5 hours, child lessons 1 hour), either group (3-4 students per instructor; $55 adults, $40 under age 10), semi-private (2 students per instructor; $65 adults, $55 under age 10), or private (1 student per instructor; $75 adults, $60 under age 10). Lesson times are tide-dependent.

The shop also offers five-lesson surf packages ($250 adults, $200 under age 10) that include a surfboard rental for one week; water sports equipment rentals, including stand-up paddleboards ($45 per day), boogie boards ($15 per day), and snorkeling equipment ($10 per day); and beach rentals such as chairs, coolers, and umbrellas (each $5-15 per day). Conveniently located 200 m (219 yd) from Playa Guiones, The Surf Shack (7am-5pm daily), Coconut Harry’s satellite location, has lockers, a shower, and a changing room.

Corky Carroll’s Surf School

350 m (383 yd) southwest of Road 160, between North Guiones and downtown Guiones; tel. 506/8712-9401; www.surfresort.net

Most hotels have board rentals and surf lessons taught by in-house instructors or partnered surf schools. Others, like the family-run Corky Carroll’s Surf School, the first surf school to operate surf camps in Nosara, provide their own lodging and operate weeklong surf packages (Nov.-Aug.; $2,750 pp) that combine lessons with room and board.

Safari Surf School

Olas Verdes, downtown Guiones; tel. 506/2682-0113; www.safarisurfschool.com; 6am-6pm daily

If you’re an eco-minded traveler, book a surf package ($1,700-3,800 pp) with Safari Surf School, an internationally accredited STOKE (Sustainable Tourism and Outdoors Kit for Evaluation) surf school that meets strict sustainability criteria. When you surf with this outfit, they donate to a local wildlife refuge, purchase carbon credits to help offset your vacation’s carbon footprint, and foster growth in the Nosara community by teaching kids about the environment and covering the cost of English classes for their staff. Established in 1999, the surf school is as experienced and esteemed as it is eco-friendly.

Yoga

Harmony Healing Center

on the main road to Playa Guiones, 450 m (492 yd) southwest of Road 160, downtown Guiones; tel. 506/8765-4254; 7am-6pm daily

A variety of drop-in yoga classes (class times change monthly; 75-90 minutes; $20-28 pp) are run at the Harmony Healing Center, conveniently located in downtown Guiones.

Bodhi Tree Yoga Resort

150 m (164 yd) south of Road 160, 500 m (0.3 mi) southeast of the main road to Playa Guiones, downtown Guiones; tel. 506/2682-0256; www.bodhitreeyogaresort.com

The beautiful Bali-inspired Bodhi Tree Yoga Resort provides 17 types of yoga classes (class times vary; 75-120 minutes; $15 pp), from gentle flow and meditation to freestyle and aerial yoga, but they specialize in yoga retreats, workshops, and teacher training sessions. If you’re serious about yoga and you want more than a recreational class, Bodhi Tree’s programs are the best in the area. The high-quality studios have pretty forest and ocean views. Supplement your yoga practice with the resort’s on-site spa, gym, and juice bar.

Blue Spirit

off Road 160, 1 km (0.6 mi) northwest of Playa Garza; tel. 506/2656-8300; www.bluespiritcostarica.com [URL inactive]

For a holistic experience that combines yoga with other wellness practices, including detoxification and oxygenation activities, restorative exercise, Vasper training regimens, and more, sign up for one of the many retreats (schedules vary; 7 nights; $1,500-3,000 pp, all-inclusive) hosted by Blue Spirit, a serene hilltop hotel and retreat center with a wide-reaching view of the Pacific Ocean. Blue Spirit draws its name and central aim, longevity promotion, from the trending topic of Blue Zones—parts of the world where the life expectancy is above average. (The Nicoya Peninsula belongs to this elite group.) Come in search of solitude and stress relief and leave a rejuvenated, happier, and healthier version of yourself.

Food

Rosi’s Soda Tica

8am-3pm Mon.-Sat.; $6-8

The area’s most authentic cuisine is served at the informal patio-style Rosi’s Soda Tica, with two locations in Nosara. The most visited is the restaurant in North Guiones (across from The Gilded Iguana; tel. 506/2530-1363), but the newest installment, opened in 2022, is in Pelada (250 m/273 yd north of Road 160, 75 m/82 yd south of the gas station; tel. 506/2215-5840). Both restaurants are small, have only a few tables, and serve plentiful dishes made with quality meats, fresh fish, and tasty vegetables. Delicious casados (traditional dishes of rice and beans, accompanied by a variety of side dishes) draw most regulars.

La Malacrianza

off Road 160, 300 m (328 yd) west of Playa Garza; tel. 506/8597-4719; noon-10pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-10pm Sat.-Sun.; $7.50-15.50

Named in honor of the legendary bull, the restaurant La Malacrianza is the best place to eat and drink while visiting Playa Garza; it has hot pizzas, cold drinks, and warm friendly service.

Naked Foods

700 m (766 yd) southwest of Road 160, North Guiones; tel. 506/8470-5980; www.nakedfoodscr.com; 8am-3pm Sun.-Tues., 8am-3pm and 6pm-9pm Wed.-Sat.; $10-15.50

Plant-based cuisine is all the rage in Nosara. The organic plant-based café Naked Foods provides a great selection of meals, snacks, and beverages. Its ever-changing menu features fresh, raw, and vegan creations, like bean burgers, gluten-free falafel, superfood parfait, and cold-pressed juices. Preparations can be ordered to go, but to help reduce waste, you’re encouraged to supply your own takeout container.

S Coyol

4.5 km (2.8 mi) northeast of Road 160, 5.5 km (3.4 mi) north of the main road to Playa Guiones, Nosara; tel. 506/8632-9590; noon-10pm daily; $18-26

In a 4WD vehicle, head up the mountainside north of Nosara to Coyol, a cozy chalet-style restaurant with floor-to-ceiling glass walls that offer breathtaking rainforest, river, and ocean views. Inside, everything is polished: the elegant table settings, the vintage bar, and the staff’s attentive service. The menu offers a wide variety of fine-dining options. Most delicious are plates that feature meat cooked to perfection on the outdoor grill, like the short ribs, smoked for four hours. Reservations are required.

La Luna

on Playa Pelada, Pelada; tel. 506/2682-0122; 7:30am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 7:30am-9pm Sun.; $19-28

To dine on the beach at sunset, grab one of the tables or benches on the sand under the tall palms that tower over La Luna. The clean, elegant, nearly all-white restaurant serves a bit of everything, including spicy sausage pizza; Mediterranean beef, chicken, shrimp, or vegetable kebabs; and a kale, beet, and feta frittata. Lights strung across the place illuminate the beach after dark and create a warm environment perfect for a date night or low-key group socializing.

Bars and Nightlife

You won’t find a plethora of discos and clubs thumping late into the night around Nosara, but there are plenty of casual locales where you can let your hair down, grab a pint of beer or a glass of wine, and chat about the day’s yoga class or surf. Since many residents and visitors rise early to surf or practice yoga, most nightlife venues in the area close at 10pm daily.

Beach Dog Café

175 m (191 yd) east of Playa Guiones, downtown Guiones; tel. 506/2682-1293; 9:30am-10pm Mon.-Sat., 9:30am-3:30pm Sun.; cash only

You can catch live music at the Beach Dog Café, where the drink menu is full of creative cocktails and there are open-mike nights.

Olga’s Beach Bar

on Playa Pelada, Pelada; tel. 506/6224-3219; 11am-10pm daily

Olga’s Beach Bar is best for cheap brews and ocean views. This is Nosara’s decades-old watering hole, and despite showing its age, it remains a beloved hangout spot. Karaoke nights, fútbol games on the sand, and a daily happy hour are hosted here.

Accommodations

While there are a few more-affordable options, high-quality surf- and yoga-themed lodgings dominate the hotel landscape in Nosara. Sámara, a beach town 35 km (22 mi) down the coast, offers an assortment of mid-range accommodations that provide an alternative to Nosara’s exquisite, albeit expensive, hotels.

S Olas Verdes

450 m (492 yd) south of the Beach Dog Café, downtown Guiones; tel. 506/2682-0608; www.olasverdeshotel.com; poolside suite $305 s/d, luxury suite $385 s/d

Tucked away in a quiet forested area south of downtown Guiones is Olas Verdes. Seventeen suites (sleep 1-4), a restaurant, and a surf school occupy the two-story buildings that form this colorful, inviting, and sustainable hotel, built in 2015. Each suite has everything you need to sequester yourself from civilization, including an air-conditioned bedroom, a comfortable living room, and a kitchenette; luxury suites have a full kitchen. There’s also a pool on-site, but the ocean at Playa Guiones is a short walk from the hotel.

Lagarta Lodge

south end of Playa Nosara, Pelada, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) northwest of the 5-way intersection; tel. 506/4070-1144; www.lagartalodge.com; $406 s/d

Deserving of the accolade “best panorama in Nosara,” Lagarta Lodge perches above a 90-acre biological reserve; the property’s restaurants, lounges, pools, rooms, and 360-degree mirador (lookout) boast marvelous river, beach, and ocean views. The boutique lodge’s 26 spacious junior suites spoil guests with private verandas, rain showerheads, and luxurious bedding. When you’re not lounging in your quiet comfortable room, you can make use of the hotel’s spa, restaurant, bar, or wine cellar.

The Gilded Iguana

700 m (766 yd) southwest of Road 160, North Guiones; tel. 506/2215-6950; www.thegildediguana.com; $497 s/d

Open since 1988, Nosara’s first establishment and hangout joint The Gilded Iguana initiated development in the area. The hotel, Nosara’s most streamlined and sophisticated, has always been exclusive, and a 2018 renovation helped increase this vibe. Its one-of-a-kind ultramodern design cleverly uses concrete paths and staircases to connect a series of two-story whitewashed wood buildings. Underneath palm-thatched roofs are the hotel’s 29 fresh, stylish, and superbly comfortable rooms, with surf-inspired decor, private outdoor baths, and fine furnishings.

Information and Services

Hospital La Anexión (Road 150, 300 m/328 yd north of the justice courts, Nicoya; tel. 506/2685-8400; 24 hours daily) serves most of the Nicoya Peninsula. It’s in Nicoya, a 1.5-hour drive northeast of Nosara.

Just below the north end of the airstrip are Nosara’s clinic, Ebais Nosara (tel. 506/2682-0266; 9am-5pm Mon.-Fri.), and Farmacia Elimar (tel. 506/2682-5149; 8am-7pm daily), a pharmacy.

Nosara’s post office (tel. 506/2682-0100; 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri.) and police station (tel. 506/2682-5126; 24 hours daily) are at the north end of the area’s airstrip. A tourist police office (on the main road to Playa Guiones, 500 m/0.3 mi southwest of Road 160, downtown Guiones; tel. 506/2682-0075; 24 hours daily) has officers available to assist foreign tourists.

Banks with ATMs, including a branch of Banco Popular (tel. 506/2682-0011; 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri.) and an ATM belonging to Banco de Costa Rica (5am-midnight daily), are along Road 160 (between Guiones and Nosara) and on the main road to Playa Guiones.

Several supermarkets cluster around Guiones, Pelada, and Nosara. In downtown Guiones, the organic grocery store Orgánico (Road 160, at the main road to Playa Guiones; tel. 506/2102-9081; www.organiconosara.com; 7am-8pm daily) has ready-made meals and picnic boxes that are perfect for beach days or day trips to attractions outside Nosara. La Bodega (main road to Playa Pelada, 675 m/738 yd southwest of Road 160; tel. 506/2682-0282; 8am-8pm Mon.-Thurs., 8am-9pm Fri.-Sat., 10am-8pm Sun.), in Pelada, has the most delicious grab-and-go sandwiches. Both stores carry a diverse selection of wine.

Fill up on fuel at the gas station on Road 160 between Nosara and Pelada, or on Road 150 just northeast of the turnoff to Nosara on your way into or out of town via Nicoya.

Getting There

Car

Nosara is a 260-km (160-mi), 4.5-hour drive west from downtown San José via Highways 1, 18, and 21, and Roads 150 and 160. From downtown Liberia, it’s a 135-km (84-mi), 3-hour drive south on Highway 21, Road 150, and Road 160 to Nosara. From Sámara, the 30-km (19-mi) drive northwest on Road 160 to Nosara takes 45-60 minutes. From Ostional and destinations farther north in Guanacaste, travel southeast on Road 160 often requires a river crossing between Ostional and Nosara. Road construction in the area is ongoing; plans to pave all of Road 160 in the Nosara region are in the works.

Air

The local airport, Aeropuerto Nosara (NOB), is in the community of Nosara, roughly 7 km (4.3 mi) north of Playa Guiones. SANSA Airlines (tel. 506/2290-4100; www.flysansa.com) flies to Nosara daily from San José.

Private Transfer Service

Operating directly out of Nosara, Terratour (800 m/875 yd southwest of Road 160 in North Guiones; tel. 506/2682-0242; www.terratournosara.com) can bring you to the beach town from popular tourist destinations around the country. Their prices average around $320 from San José.

Shared Shuttle Service

The San José-based transportation service provider Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com) can shuttle you to Nosara from a few popular tourist towns, including San José, Liberia, La Fortuna, Monteverde, and Sámara. From San José, the one-way fare is about $85 pp.

Bus

You can reach Nosara by public bus from San José, Nicoya, or Sámara. From Sámara, take the bus bound for Nicoya and get off partway, at the gas station 5 km (3.1 mi) north of Sámara. Ask the bus driver, “¿Por favor, puede parar en la bomba?” (“Can you please stop at the gas station?”). You can then catch one of many buses that head to Nosara at the stop on the opposite side of the road, across from the gas station. To identify a bus bound for Nosara, look for signage in the bus’s front window. Buses end their run in the village of Nosara, on the north side of the fútbol field. If you need to get off at Guiones, ask the bus driver, “¿Por favor, puede parar en Guiones?” (“Can you please stop in Guiones?”). The driver will drop you off in downtown Guiones on the corner of Road 160 and the main road that leads to Playa Guiones.

Getting Around

The 8 km (5 mi) connecting Guiones, Pelada, and Nosara is best explored on wheels. If you don’t have a rental vehicle, use one of the abundant tuk-tuks (a motorized rickshaw) to get around. Tuk-tuk drivers typically congregate beside Café de Paris in downtown Guiones and in front of Fish Bar in North Guiones. Monkey Quads (on the main road to Playa Guiones, 550 m/601 yd southwest of Road 160, downtown Guiones; tel. 506/2682-4067; www.monkeyquads.com) has ATV rentals ($60 per day, $350 per week) and golf cart rentals ($75 per day, $425 per week).

A public trail system managed by the Nosara Civic Association weaves throughout Guiones and Pelada and provides a pedestrian route between the two neighboring communities. Signs marked “Senderos NCA” in each community indicate trailheads and provide maps. The trails lead through forested areas, so it’s best to avoid taking them after dark.

REFUGIO NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE OSTIONAL

Ostional National Wildlife Refuge; tel. 506/2682-0400; www.sinac.go.cr; 8am-4pm daily, beach access 5am-11pm daily; free

The elongated Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional spans 15 km (9.3 mi) of Pacific shoreline from just north of the community of Nosara all the way south to Punta Guiones. Surfers and swimmers enjoy the refuge’s nearly 20,000 acres of protected waters, but the star attractions are the groups of olive ridley sea turtles that come ashore to nest on the refuge’s shores. A once-in-a-lifetime wildlife-viewing opportunity for most visitors, these events are the most spectacular showings of sea turtles in all of Costa Rica.

the beach at Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional

A small office of the Ministerio de Ambiente y Energía (Ministry of Environment and Energy, MINAE; www.minae.go.cr [URL inactive]) in the community of Ostional marks the refuge’s official entrance.

S Sea Turtle Nesting

Unlike other sea turtle species spotted elsewhere in Costa Rica crawling ashore individually, the olive ridleys that frequent the refuge are known for nesting in groups. Swarms of pregnant female turtles gather in the ocean off Playa Ostional in the weeks prior to an arribada (literally, “arrival”). Together, they storm the beach over 2-6 days, stunning residents and visitors alike with a dramatic display of one of nature’s wildest and most orchestrated events.

In 1995, a record-setting arribada saw a half million olive ridleys deposit their eggs in the sand at Playa Ostional. That’s tough to top, but nesting periods May-December routinely come close. It’s not unusual for arribadas to see adult turtles in the hundreds of thousands, especially during August-December. Though olive ridley sea turtles nest at the refuge year-round, turtle sightings are much less common January-April.

To plan for the event, brush up on your understanding of lunar cycles and tide charts. Arribadas are impossible to predict with certainty; most guides can’t pinpoint dates more than a month in advance. However, olive ridleys tend to arrive at Playa Ostional during afternoon or evening high tides at least once every moon cycle, generally between the third quarter and the new moon. They nest between dusk and dawn, although smaller groups and stragglers come ashore throughout the day.

Tours

The arribadas at Playa Ostional are best witnessed after dusk or around dawn. Access to the refuge is restricted when turtles are present, so you’ll need to join a guided turtle nesting tour ($20 adults, $5 ages 3-12). Tours range 45 minutes to four hours; only approved guides can lead them and they require reservation. During the tour, you’ll wait on the beach while the guide searches for turtles. During large arribadas, you may find yourself surrounded by the creatures. To avoid disrupting the nesting cycles, humans must stay 1 m (3.3 ft) away from turtles that have laid eggs and are returning to the ocean. When necessary, tour guides provide special lights that can help you see the turtles in the dark. They also provide information about the turtles and their nesting behaviors throughout the experience. Tour groups are capped at a maximum of nine people per guide. Tour departure times are tide-dependent but aim to run around 7pm or 5am.

Tour guides can be hired through the Asociación de Guías Locales de Ostional (Ostional Local Guides Association, AGLO; 75 m/246 ft south of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2682-0428) or the Asociación de Desarrollo Integral de Ostional (Ostional Integral Development Association, ADIO; 300 m/328 yd southeast of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2682-1229). Both groups were formed to help minimize the harmful effects of tourism on turtle nesting. You’ll need to ask specifically for an English-speaking tour guide with either one, and you’ll also need to drive yourself to the AGLO or ADIO office in Ostional where the turtle tours begin.

Without a rental car, you can take one of the tours offered by tour operators and agencies from nearby Nosara or Sámara, like Sámara Adventures (tel. 506/2656-0920; www.samaraadventures.com). Although taking these tours means paying more ($67 adults, $57 ages 5-12), round-trip transportation is included. Even if you have a rental car, this option can save you a drive to or from your home base in the dark along the bumpy stretch of Road 160, possibly with a river crossing.

Getting There

Playa Ostional is a mere 10-15 km (6-9 mi) northwest of Nosara, Pelada, and Guiones and 40 km (25 mi) northwest of Sámara. Roadwork in the area is underway; the unpaved stretch of Road 160 between Nosara and Ostional is slow going. Vehicles must travel at a snail’s pace to manage the loose rocks, and drivers may need to navigate a river crossing. Expect the route to take 30-40 minutes from Nosara, Pelada, or Guiones and over an hour from Sámara. A 4WD vehicle with high clearance is recommended. Significant rainfall can cause rivers to swell; before setting out, confirm with a local or AGLO (they tend to keep tabs on road conditions) whether the road is passable.

If you plan to visit Playa Ostional from a beach town in Guanacaste, such as Tamarindo or Playas del Coco, Road 160 also provides access from the northwest. Traversing the road from this direction avoids the river crossing, but having a 4WD vehicle is still a good idea. Road 160 is paved as far south as Road 928 (the access road to Playa Junquillal on the northern Pacific coast) but is a bumpy mix of dirt and pressed gravel all the way to Ostional. From Tamarindo, the route is about 60 km (37 mi), a 90-minute drive.

Sámara and Carrillo

One of the Nicoya Peninsula’s most visited destinations is in its northern half. Sámara is a vibrant, geographically small, and easily accessible beach town. Much of Sámara’s appeal—especially to families with young children—is its calm bay and swim-friendly waters.

The small dense town has strong Italian and other European influences, conducts tourism in a professional but laid-back manner, and offers an eclectic vibe with its collection of beach bars, health stores, and art shops. In less than a half hour you can walk around the entire core. You can do so in your bathing suit; you’ll blend in just fine in this casual community.

Southeast of Sámara, the tiny hillside village of Carrillo (sometimes mapped as Puerto Carrillo) hides one of Costa Rica’s most beautiful beaches. Well worth visiting as a day trip from Sámara or Nosara, or perfect on its own if you want a low-key spot just outside the bustle of a developed beach town, Carrillo and its magnificent half-moon beach should not be missed.

Sámara is the easiest coastal destination on the Nicoya Peninsula to reach by car. The town is where Road 150, a paved north-south route from the peninsula’s inlands, joins Road 160, a partly paved, partly pressed-gravel road from Nosara. In Sámara, Road 150 becomes the town’s main drag, ending at Playa Sámara. The downtown core covers an area less than 1 sq km (0.39 sq mi) and comprises a few unnamed side streets that branch off from Roads 150 and 160.

BEACHES

Playa Sámara

The supple and slightly gray-tinged light sand spread out across Playa Sámara is soothing to look at and comfortable to stretch out on. It’s the kind of beach you can walk on barefoot because the waves at the shoreline keep the sand refreshingly cool. Worth admiring during a leisurely stroll up and down the beach are the scenic forested headlands on both sides of Bahía Sámara.

Playing in the water here is largely stress-free due to small waves, a gradual slope, and a lack of riptides. This is Sámara’s primary beach, and it fronts the entire town. Don’t expect to find the place empty, but getting to hang out on a sliver of pretty Playa Sámara is reason enough to visit.

Playa Cangrejal

On the west side of Bahía Sámara, Playa Cangrejal is separated from Playa Sámara by a small river mouth. This wide light-sand beach, backed by two rows of tropical palms, remains off the tourist radar, even though it’s just as stunning and only a fraction as popular as its neighbor to the east. If you’re looking to swim someplace outside town, go here.

From downtown Sámara, Playa Cangrejal is a 1.5-km (0.9-mi) walk, drive, or taxi ride west on Road 160 and south on the unnamed road that leads to the beach.

S Playa Carrillo

GOOGLE MAP

A short 6-km (3.7-mi), 10-minute drive southeast of Sámara is one of Costa Rica’s best beaches, the breathtaking Playa Carrillo, a crescent-shaped oasis with soft sand and glassy smooth water. Don’t miss the sunset, when the palm trees glow and the beach shines in a coral hue.

You won’t find restaurants or other facilities at Playa Carrillo, but you may spot the “Super Trailer” owned by Leyenda Boutique Hotel (Road 160, 2.5 km/1.5 mi northeast of Playa Carrillo; tel. 506/4002-2790). The trailer provides a restroom, a freshwater shower, chairs, and food delivery service to beachgoers, but only those who are hotel guests.

Don’t station yourself at the far east end of the beach where the road enters the community of Carrillo (a small bridge marks the spot). It has an estuary that may contain crocodiles.

RECREATION

Local Guides and Tours

Sámara Adventures

Road 150, just north of Road 160, Sámara; tel. 506/2656-0920; www.samaraadventures.com; 6:30am-8pm daily

Sámara Adventures is Sámara’s leading tour operator, offering every kind of guided activity you can do in the area, from local nature excursions like turtle nesting tours and mangrove tours to ocean adventures like kayak and snorkel outings. The company runs day tours to regions beyond the Nicoya Peninsula, including trips to Guanacaste’s Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja, plus visits to attractions in La Fortuna and Monteverde. A prompt, professional, and friendly team backs the business.

Zip-Lining

Wing Nuts Canopy Tour

Road 160, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) east of Road 150, Sámara; tel. 506/2656-0153; www.wingnutscanopy.com; 8am-8pm daily

While most Sámara travelers congregate at or near the beach, some opt to explore the area from above during the Canopy Tour (8am, 9am, noon, and 1pm daily; 2-3 hours; $80 adults, $65 ages 2-12; min. age 2) created by the Wing Nuts Canopy Tour. Although it’s exhilarating when you speed across each of the nine zip-line cables, the trip overall has a down-to-earth feeling. Groups are small, and tour guides take time to make conversation. Partway through the treetop journey, juice and fruit are served picnic-style on one of the zip-line platforms. With a little luck, you’ll spot monkeys or coatimundis during the experience, which traverses dry forest typical of the area and provides a beautiful view of the Pacific Ocean through the trees. If you want to try canopy surfing—gliding on a zip-line cable while standing upright on a surfboard—you can add the experience to the canopy tour for an extra $20 pp. Wing Nuts has coined the rad ride the “Skyrip.”

Kayaking, Stand-Up Paddling, and Snorkeling

Isla Chora (Chora Island), a small rocky island with a blush-pink beach, is approximately 2.5 km (1.5 mi) offshore from Playa Sámara at the base of town. Kayakers, stand-up paddleboarders, and boaters can travel between the island and the mainland when tide conditions permit.

Sámara Adventures

Road 150, just north of Road 160, Sámara; tel. 506/2656-0920; www.samaraadventures.com; 6:30am-8pm daily

Sámara Adventures leads guided tours to the island. Their Isla Chora Kayak and Snorkel Tour (3 hours; $52 adults, $42 ages 5-12; min. age 5) and Isla Chora Stand-Up Paddle and Snorkel Tour (3 hours; $56 adults, $42 ages 5-12; min. age 5) both include all necessary equipment, round-trip transportation from Sámara hotels, a snack served on the island, and an opportunity to snorkel around a shallow reef. The times for these Isla Chora tours are tide-dependent. Great for families with young children is the operator’s popular Ocean Seafari Dolphin Sightseeing and Snorkel Tour (8:15am daily; 3-4 hours; $58 adults, $42 ages 5-12), an easy dolphin-watching expedition that docks near the island for snorkeling. During the trip, you can spot up to three different species of dolphins.

Surfing

Sámara’s surf doesn’t wow the pros or even intermediate-level surfers, but it’s great for beginners who have never mounted a board. You’ll get long and low waves, a sandy bottom, and hardly any rip current—ideal conditions for first-time surfers intimidated by rougher runs up and down the coast. If you’re an avid surfer but you’re stationed in Sámara, day trips to nearby breaks are in your future.

Pato’s Surf School

on Playa Sámara, Sámara; tel. 506/8373-2281; www.patossurfingsamara.com; 8am-6pm daily

Any good surf instructor will tell you that it takes beginners more than one lesson to get the hang of how to surf. That’s why I favor Pato’s Surf School; the school ingeniously includes a five-day surfboard rental with their classes, so you can have time to put theory into practice—at no extra cost.

Pato’s Surf School runs three types of surf lessons (1.5 hours): group (3 students per instructor; $50 pp), semi-private (2 students per instructor; $60 pp), and private (1 student per instructor; $70 pp). The team of instructors is particularly great with kids; this and the area’s mild surf make Sámara the perfect place to introduce your young ones to the sport.

All lesson times are tide-dependent. Surfboards can be rented ($20 per day) at Pato’s Surf School and various other locations around town. If you plan to use the equipment for more than three days, a group surf lesson with a five-day board rental is the greatest value. Pato’s Surf School also has other water sports equipment rentals, including stand-up paddleboards ($12 per hour), kayaks ($10-12 per hour), boogie boards ($15 per day), and snorkeling equipment ($10 per day).

Horseback Riding

Horses are a common sight on Playa Sámara, and riding tours are widely available. My favorite are small-group horseback riding tours that explore relatively untouched beach areas north of town. The unoccupied sand makes for wide-open walks, and beautiful oceanside scenery and undeveloped land are on full display.

Horse Jungle

just south of Road 160, 5 km (3.1 mi) northwest of Road 150, Sámara; tel. 506/8650-1606; www.horsejungle.com

You cannot go wrong with any of the adult-oriented but family-friendly horseback riding tours (8:30am-3pm daily; 2.5-8 hours; $50-130 pp; min. age 4) provided by Horse Jungle. Each tour’s course is slightly different; some pass through forest, visit the beach, or wade through rivers, but all are equally worthy of your time and money. Perfect for families with little ones, the child-friendly horseback riding tour (8:30am-3pm daily; 1 hour; $35 pp) was specifically designed with young riders in mind; children ride ponies tethered to the tour guide, and there’s an opportunity to help wash the ponies at the end of the ride. If you’re a devoted rider, consider committing to a multiday horse trek ($295-555 pp) that combines daily horseback riding tours with extras like meals and a visit to a sunset mirador. This outfitter focuses on the comfort level of its riders and takes good care of its horses.

SHOPPING

Tons of shops selling typical souvenirs and beach supplies like sarongs, bathing suits, towels, and hats line the main drag.

Sámara Organics

Natural Center, on the main road parallel to Playa Sámara, Sámara; tel. 506/2656-3046; 9am-7pm Mon.-Sat., 10am-6pm Sun.

When I’m in Sámara, you’ll likely find me perusing the shelves inside Sámara Organics. I love this small market, which doubles as a café. It has fresh fruit and vegetables, sandwiches, smoothies, superfoods, desserts, and the best banana bread I’ve ever tasted. The market also has souvenir-worthy gifts and artwork, hair and body products, and essential oils.

health food market Sámara Organics

FOOD

S Beachside Restaurants

Grab a table on the sand along Playa Sámara’s 3 km (1.9 mi) of beach and watch the waves crashing, the beachgoers and horses on the sand, and water sports adventurers on the bay. Visit after dark when poi shows light up the beach, and be serenaded by one of Sámara’s traveling mariachi bands.

Bahía

on Playa Sámara, Sámara; tel. 506/2656-0106; www.bahiahotelsamara.com; 7:30am-10pm daily; $10.50-17

The most casual of my recommended beachside restaurants is Bahía, which has no more than a few tables and chairs spread out on the sand. But the secluded-feeling spot, a 15-minute walk east of the center of town, is a great place to enjoy a quiet meal away from groups of tourists and townsfolk. Seize an opportunity to try the local seafood here; fish and octopus ceviche, traditional fish casado, and “mariscos crema coco,” a heavenly blend of shrimp, clams, mussels, flaked coconut, and coconut cream, are on the menu. Meat and vegetarian dishes are also served.

Gusto Beach

on Playa Sámara, Sámara; tel. 506/2656-0252; 8am-10pm daily; $13-22

The stylish but informal Gusto Beach has a beach volleyball net and a fun vibe, perfect if you’re looking to socialize. It also has tables and soft director chairs on a covered patio and under shade sails, making it a good place to eat by the beach on rainy days. You can get burgers, salads, and pizzas, but the best are the focaccias. Vegetarian options and kids’ meals are also served. If all you want is a beverage, you’ll appreciate the all-day drink menu and its lineup of creative cocktails.

S El Lagarto

on Playa Sámara, Sámara; tel. 506/2656-0750; www.ellagartobbq.com; 3pm-10pm daily; $22-32

Great for a night out is El Lagarto, a fish, seafood, chicken, and steak joint that serves flavorful meals prepared a la parrilla (on the grill). The food quality is top-notch, with high-grade beef sourced from the northern inland region and vegetables from the Central Valley. The fish and seafood caught just off the coast are served fresh. Come hungry and thirsty; portions are large, and the five-page drink menu provides plenty of options.

Costa Rican

Soda La Perla

just west of Playa Cangrejal, Sámara; tel. 506/2656-0241; 7am-7pm Tues.-Sat., 7am-2pm Sun.; $4-13, cash only

My favorite diner serving local cuisine is the tiny roadside Soda La Perla. Just steps from Playa Cangrejal, a five-minute drive west of Sámara, this home-style restaurant serves authentic food in the least formal setting you can imagine. The floor is made of gravel, a surfboard serves as a table, and the kitchen is open (ideal if you like to watch your food being prepared), but the casual construction complements the tasty rice dishes and fish fillets.

Vegetarian and Vegan

Ahora Si! Italian Restaurant

just south of Road 160, 300 m (328 yd) east of Road 150, Sámara; tel. 506/8314-3624; www.ahorasicasaparaiso.com; 9am-9:30pm Thurs.-Tues.; $11.50-15.50

The colorful, mosaic-clad Ahora Si! Italian Restaurant is hippie-ish, pet-friendly, and wonderfully welcoming. It promotes inclusivity and community with its unisex restrooms and signage requesting that diners forgo their phones during their meal. The handmade pastas, including ravioli, gnocchi, fettucine, and lasagna, will melt in your mouth. Although some preparations have meat, there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options, making this restaurant a good choice for diners who prefer plant-based meals.

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

Sámara isn’t a party town, but there are a handful of low-key places that happily provide night entertainment and drinks. On occasion, restaurants on Playa Sámara host free outdoor poi shows after dark. The performance art, which involves setting weights ablaze and swinging them in rhythmical motions, is wildly mesmerizing. Showtimes and locations change regularly, so it’s best to ask a local for them when you arrive in Sámara. You can show your appreciation for the art and the entertainment by tipping the talented performer after the show.

Pubs and Bars

Limey’s Bar & Restaurant

formerly Frank’s Secret Beer Garden, Road 150 and Calle Plaza, Sámara; tel. 506/8770-7719; 8am-11pm daily

The local watering hole, within walking distance of everything in Sámara, is Limey’s Bar & Restaurant. It has billiards, live music, and happy hours with discounted beer.

ACCOMMODATIONS

$50-100

Casa Esmeralda

15 m (49 ft) south of Road 160, 300 m (328 yd) east of Road 150, Sámara; tel. 506/2656-0489; $55 s/d

When I need to cut costs in Sámara, I usually end up at Casa Esmeralda, conveniently within walking distance of everything in town. This two-story economical hotel has an upstairs corridor with basic and snug but acceptable rooms, and surprisingly, an above-average restaurant ($6-14) on the first floor. Rooms sleep 1-3 in double and single beds and have air-conditioning, a TV, and a private bath. The enjoyable complimentary breakfast makes Casa Esmeralda a real bargain.

S Hotel Belvedere

100 m (109 yd) north of Road 160, 100 m (109 yd) east of Road 150, Sámara; tel. 506/8417-6633; www.hotelbelvederesamara.com; $90 s/d

Hotel Belvedere, up a small hill at the north end of downtown Sámara, offers 22 affordable rooms equipped with one double and one single bed for 1-3 people. Guest rooms are clean and have lots of shelving, air-conditioning, and indoor and outdoor seating areas. The rooms and the friendly staff, well-kept grounds, and on-site pool make the Belvedere one of the area’s best-value hotels.

Over $250

S Leyenda Boutique Hotel

Road 160, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) northeast of Playa Carrillo, Carrillo; tel. 506/4002-2790; www.hotelleyenda.com; $296 s/d

The Leyenda Boutique Hotel is my preferred hotel in the Carrillo area for an endless list of reasons. I particularly love the immaculately manicured grounds that emit the subtle fragrance of ylang-ylang flowers; the welcoming staff; and the large, clean, comfortable, and well-furnished rooms (22 in total, equipped with 1 or 2 queen beds). This quiet place also has a restaurant and two pools on-site; discreet security cameras around the grounds maximize guest safety. Stay here and you’ll get free transportation to Playa Carrillo and access to the hotel’s bath- and shower-equipped Super Trailer on the beach, which also dispenses complimentary beach chairs.

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

Nicoya’s Hospital La Anexión (Road 150, 300 m/328 yd north of the justice courts, Nicoya; tel. 506/2685-8400; 24 hours daily) serves most of the Nicoya Peninsula. It’s a 45-minute drive north of Sámara.

There is a doctor’s office, signed as Centro Médico Dr. Freddy Soto (Road 150 and Road 160; tel. 506/2656-0992; 9am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-noon Sat.) in the heart of town. Across the street is a pharmacy, Farmacia Sámara (tel. 506/2656-3400; 8am-7pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-1pm Sun.).

A post office (tel. 506/2656-0368; 8:30am-noon and 1:30pm-5pm Mon.-Fri.) and police station (tel. 506/2656-0436; 24 hours daily) are south of the fútbol field at the end of the main road that leads to Playa Sámara (Road 150).

The Banco de Costa Rica (north side of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2211-1111; 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri.) has an ATM (5am-midnight daily). An additional bank and ATM can be found on Road 160.

The biggest supermarket is Palí (8am-8pm Mon.-Thurs., 8am-9pm Fri.-Sun.) on Road 160, just west of Road 150. Plenty of others line the road that runs parallel to Playa Sámara. The closest gas station is on Road 150, 5 km (3.1 mi) north of Sámara.

GETTING THERE

Car

Sámara is a 240-km (149-mi), four-hour drive west from downtown San José via Highways 1, 18, and 21 and Road 150. From downtown Liberia, it’s a 115-km (71-mi), two-hour drive south on Highway 21 and Road 150. To get to Sámara from Nosara, it’s a 30-km (19-mi) drive southeast on Road 160, which takes 45-60 minutes.

Carrillo is just 5 km (3.1 mi), a 10-minute drive, southeast of Sámara on Road 160.

Bus

Public buses travel to Sámara from San José, Nicoya, and Nosara. From Nosara, take the bus bound for Nicoya and get off partway, 28 km (17 mi) east of Nosara, across the street from the gas station. When you get on, ask the bus driver, “¿Por favor, puede parar en la bomba?” (“Can you please stop at the gas station?”). You can then catch one of many buses headed to Sámara at the stop in front of the gas station, on the opposite side of the road. To identify a bus bound for Sámara, look for signage in the bus’s front window. Some buses pass through Sámara on the way to the village of Estrada, a small inland village roughly 5 km (3.1 mi) beyond Carrillo. To ensure the bus will stop in Sámara, ask the bus driver, “¿Por favor, puede parar en Sámara?” (“Can you please stop in Sámara?”). The driver will drop you off at the north end of Sámara, on the corner of Road 150 and Road 160.

Carrillo can be reached by bus from Sámara by hopping on the bus that travels between Nicoya and Estrada. To get to Carrillo, catch the bus at the north end of Sámara, on the corner of Road 150 and Road 160. To identify a bus bound for Carrillo, look for signage in the front window. To ensure the bus stops in Carrillo, ask the bus driver, “¿Por favor, puede parar en Carrillo?” (“Can you please stop in Carrillo?”). The driver will drop you off on Road 160 in the center of town, by the cemetery. To visit the beach, ask, “¿Por favor, puede parar en Playa Carrillo?” (“Can you please stop at Playa Carrillo?”).

Private Transfer Service

Sámara Adventures (Road 150, just north of Road 160, Sámara; tel. 506/2656-0920; www.samaraadventures.com; 6:30am-8pm daily) surpasses the competition in town with a fleet of reliable vehicles (with free Wi-Fi on board) and a team of professional drivers. Its private transfer services can collect you in most popular tourist destinations around the country and bring you to its beloved hometown. Prices average around $290 from San José.

Shared Shuttle Service

Based in Montezuma, Zuma Tours (tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net) runs shuttles to Sámara from select destinations in the southern half of the peninsula, including Santa Teresa, Malpaís, and Montezuma. It also has shuttles that depart from Liberia and Tamarindo. Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com), headquartered in San José, also operates shared shuttle services to Sámara from Liberia, as well as from San José, La Fortuna, Monteverde, and Nosara. The cost of the service from San José is about $50 pp.

GETTING AROUND

Travel is casual in downtown Sámara. Foot traffic is the norm; even those who drive tend to leave their vehicles parked on side roads in favor of walking around town. If you’re stationed on the outskirts, you can hire a taxi by the fútbol field (just north of Playa Sámara) to take you to wherever you need to go.

Carrillo’s position on a hill makes the village more difficult to walk around, but parts are accessible on foot. If you don’t intend to rent a car, choose lodging that is either within walking distance of Playa Carrillo or that provides guests with a shuttle service to the beach.

Parque Nacional Barra Honda

The 5,675-acre Parque Nacional Barra Honda is a 300-m-high (328-yd) elongated mound, mostly covered with forest. The landform has a raised flat top that resembles a mesa and steep sides that form an escarpment of exposed rock. A network of more than 40 underground caverns drops into the mound like volcano craters. The park’s deepest cave, Santa Ana, dives nearly 250 m (273 yd) underground. Less than half of the attraction’s multimillion-year-old caverns have been fully explored. Explorations have turned up carvings, artifacts, skeletal remains, and countless unanswered questions.

Birds, deer, monkeys, coatimundis, agoutis, and anteaters inhabit the park, but it’s not the varied wildlife that draws people here—it’s the caverns.

VISITING THE PARK

On the west side of the park at the base of the mound, a ranger station (Barra Honda National Park, 9 km/5.6 mi northwest of Hwy. 18, 1.5 km/0.9 mi north of Hwy. 21; tel. 506/2659-1551; 8am-4pm daily, last entry 1pm; $12 adults, $5 ages 6-11) marks the official entrance. A few hiking trails explore the landform’s top, where you can tour the caves with a guide. Due to the instability of most of the caves, only two, La Cuevita and Terciopelo, are accessible to the public.

HIKING

The park’s public hiking trails begin at the top of the mound, just beyond a small forest clearing used as a parking lot. A rough uphill road known as Sendero Matapalo (Matapalo Trail) connects the ranger station to the clearing. You must have a 4WD vehicle to attempt the trip—the 2-km (1.2-mi) road follows a rugged, steep, narrow path through the forest. In-shape hikers can complete the journey without a car, but it’s no easy task.

Sendero Las Cavernas

Las Cavernas Trail; 3 km (1.9 mi) loop; 1 hour; easy-moderate

From the forest clearing, Sendero Los Laureles departs to the right. Sendero La Ceiba departs to the left. Each of these trails forms one half of the circular Sendero Las Cavernas, which loops around the park through rare tropical dry forest. A tour guide is neither required nor needed to hike either trail. You’ll pass turnoffs to La Cuevita and Terciopelo, the park’s two publicly accessible caves, as you loop around the trail.

Sendero El Mirador

El Mirador Trail; 250 m (273 yd) one-way; 10 minutes; moderate

On the east side of the park, where Sendero Los Laureles connects with Sendero La Ceiba, Sendero El Mirador climbs uphill to a mirador at the edge of an escarpment. Here, at the park’s highest public access point, you have a jaw-dropping view of the Nicoya Peninsula’s interior, including a valley filled with farms, pastures, and treetops; rows of mountains fading into the distance; and a vivid display of greens and blues. The sight is the most breathtaking and far-reaching panorama I’ve come across in the region.

SPELUNKING THE TERCIOPELO CAVE

One of the most unique journeys you can make in Costa Rica is the 63-m (207-ft) descent into the park’s Terciopelo cave. Not for the faint of heart or anyone who suffers from claustrophobia, the heart-pounding journey requires you to join a guided tour, strap on a helmet and a harness, and climb down a metal ladder into a pit of darkness—or so the cave appears from its craggy entrance. During the tour, you’ll walk around the cave’s interior, visiting its various rooms before returning to the ladder and exiting the way you came. Only from the inside can you fully appreciate the limestone beauty of the cave, full of stalactites and stalagmites. Some formations are sharp; others are curved, smooth, and look like hardened billows of smoke.

Cave tours (8am-1pm daily; 2 hours; $30 adults, $25 ages 12-15; min. age 12) include a descent into Terciopelo and exploration of its interior. Tour guides trained in cave exploration are provided when you sign up for the experience at the park’s ranger station.

Children must be at least 12 to enter Terciopelo. For younger children, there are guided cave tours that explore the less challenging La Cuevita (8am-1pm daily; 1.5 hours; $12 pp; min. age 4). La Cuevita mirrors Terciopelo in its look and feel, but as a smaller cave, it takes less time to explore, and it doesn’t require as deep a descent. The narrow opening to this cave prevents entry by many adults. (Note that children are accompanied by a guide on this tour, not their parents—but parents can stick close by, at the opening to the cave.)

GETTING THERE

The park is best accessed by car. If you plan to drive yourself to the park, coordinate your visit with a stop on the Nicoya Peninsula. Lodging options in the area are few, so it’s best to avoid staying overnight near the park. Visit early enough in the day to have time to tour the park and arrive at your next destination before sundown.

From Sámara, the closest tourist town to the park, it’s a 50-km (31-mi) drive north on Road 150 and a few unnamed country roads to the ranger station; the route takes a little over one hour. If you visit from destinations in the southern Nicoya Peninsula, the park can be reached from the east by way of Road 160, Highway 21, Highway 18, and other unnamed country roads. (The country roads are well marked for the park.) The drive from the southern half of the peninsula takes 2.5-3 hours depending on your departure location.

Montezuma and Vicinity

The southern half of the Nicoya Peninsula has beach towns galore, many of them favored for their soft sand and swimmable bright-blue waters. Throughout the area, you’ll find yogis, surfers, and beachgoers who think of this distant area of Costa Rica as their happy place.

The southeast side of the peninsula curves around the peaceful Golfo de Nicoya in the north and juts into the Pacific Ocean to the south. The most frequented destination in the vicinity is Montezuma, a coastal village heavy in hippiedom roughly 13 km (8.1 mi) northeast of the peninsula’s southernmost tip. A few kilometers offshore is the uninhabited, paradisiacal Isla Tortuga, a popular place to hang out at for a day.

Nature trails cut through the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú and the Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco, satisfying active visitors who seek nature exploration to supplement their beach time.

MONTEZUMA

The small coastal village of Montezuma is the destination of choice for the unconventional traveler. It’s where bohemian locals, expats, and visitors converge to form a carefree community rich in the arts. On a visit here, you’ll likely come across fire dancers, jugglers, aerial silk and trapeze artists, musicians, kirtan (a type of religious performance art) performers, and other surprising talents. Also here are equally free-spirited business owners, not all of whom care for tourism—or tourists.

Economy lodging and informal dining options are the standard, especially in the heart of Montezuma. They’re also why Montezuma ranks highly among cash-strapped backpackers. Tucked away in the hills on the outskirts of the village are newer options that are changing the norm. To the delight of many, Montezuma is modernizing slowly but steadily to better compete with burgeoning beach towns elsewhere in the country. To the dismay of others, it’s losing its allure as an unfiltered hippie hot spot.

Montezuma’s tiny core comprises two unnamed roads. One runs parallel to Playa Montezuma, and the other runs perpendicular to the beach for no more than 100 m (109 yd) until it connects with Road 624, the village’s principal access road.

Sights

TOP EXPERIENCE

S Cataratas Montezuma

Montezuma Waterfalls, lower waterfall entrance: Road 624, 50 m (164 ft) north of the road to Delicias; 24 hours daily; free; upper waterfall entrance: at Suntrails, on the road to Delicias, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) northwest of Road 624; tel. 506/8467-8989; www.suntrails.com; 8:30am-5:30pm daily; $4 pp

The triad of cascades that form the Cataratas Montezuma is not only a fine display of Mother Nature’s remarkable craftsmanship but also home to Montezuma’s most beloved swimming holes. Each waterfall has its own freshwater pool set among natural landscapes with nothing made by humans in sight. There’s truly nowhere else you need to be in Montezuma than in one of the pools, soaking up your surroundings and patting yourself on the back for selecting Costa Rica as your travel destination. Technically, the three waterfalls are one giant cascade. Each is part of the Río Montezuma, which tumbles over three rock faces one after the other. The top two waterfalls are known as the upper falls. Slightly downriver and closest to the village of Montezuma is the lower fall.

There are a few ways to access the Cataratas Montezuma and their respective swimming holes. The cheapest way is to follow the free entrance trail (1 km/0.6 mi one-way; 20 minutes; moderate). It begins just beyond the bridge at the south end of town, roughly a 15-minute walk from Montezuma center. There’s a parking lot at the trailhead. The trail leads upriver over large rocks to the lower waterfall, the most visited of the bunch. It has the largest swimming hole and is the tallest at 25 m (82 ft). If you’re on a budget or you’re only interested in seeing the most impressive cascade, stop here, swim if you wish, then head back the way you came.

If you want to swing or jump into pools, or swim where fewer people are, opt to visit the upper falls. (If you’re itching for adrenaline, you can give the rope swing at the uppermost fall a go.) From the north side of the lower waterfall, you’ll see people setting out on an unnamed trail (1 km/0.6 mi one-way; 45 minutes; difficult) that requires a steep uphill trek through the forest and alongside rocks to reach the upper falls.

A much safer and easier way to access Cataratas Montezuma is through the property of Suntrails, the providers of Montezuma’s zip-line canopy tour. To enter, you need to pay a fee. Suntrails provides an unnamed trail that trades uphill hikes for hanging bridge crossings and descents to the waterfalls, saving more challenging ascents for your exit. The first section (1.5 km/0.9 mi one-way; 20 minutes; easy-moderate) begins just beyond the Suntrails office and leads to the upper falls. The second section (500 m/0.3 mi one-way; 10 minutes; easy-moderate) travels onward to the lower waterfall. The Suntrails office, which has a parking lot, is a five-minute drive up the hill from downtown Montezuma.

Visits to Cataratas Montezuma require vigilance. Rocks can be slippery, flash floods are a possibility, and cliff jumps can be deadly, so be cautious.

Beaches

Playa Montezuma

The light-sand Playa Montezuma is Montezuma’s main beach. It’s often awash with free-spirited beachgoers who gather at the spot to practice their arts, relax, drink a few brews, or have a bonfire. Socialize on the beach if you want, but sunbathe and swim elsewhere. There’s a lineup of better beaches both north and south of town.

Playa Colorada

Northeast of Montezuma is a string of remote beaches, not accessible by car, that are good alternatives to Playa Montezuma. A quick 200-m (219-mi) coastal trail that begins at the Ylang Ylang Beach Resort at Playa Montezuma, a 15-minute walk from the center of town, leads to the pretty cove known as Playa Colorada (also called Playa Piedra Colorada). Here, you can spot rocks in coral, turquoise, amber, and purple hues, and wade in a freshwater swimming hole just west of the beach fed by the gentle Río Piedra Colorada (Piedra Colorada River).

Playa Grande

Also accessible to the public beyond the Ylang Ylang resort, a moderate, 1-km (0.6-mi), 20-minute forest trail cuts inland around Playa Colorada and leads to the long and wide Playa Grande, a decent place for sunbathing and swimming.

Playa Cocalito

One km (0.6 mi) up the coast from the northeast end of Playa Grande is the deserted Playa Cocalito. At the east end of this beach, you can watch the 8-m (26-ft) Catarata El Chorro (El Chorro Waterfall), also known as Cocalito Falls, pour off a rock face into the ocean. It’s a 7-km (4.3-mi), two-hour walk from the center of Montezuma to the base of the waterfall at Playa Cocalito. The top of the waterfall, an escarpment that stuns with a bird’s-eye view of the cascade, the Pacific Ocean, and Montezuma’s coastline, can be reached via a combined road and forest trail (1 km/0.6 mi one-way; 30 minutes; easy) that departs from the property of Tango Mar. The escarpment doesn’t have guardrails, so keep a safe distance from the cliff’s edge when you go and don’t loosen your grip on any young ones in tow. When visiting the bottom of the waterfall via the beach, most sections of the walk offer no shade, so don’t go without a hat, sunscreen, and water. There is no way to reach the top of the waterfall from its base (or vice versa).

Playa Las Manchas

My vote for the best beach in the area goes to Playa Las Manchas, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of downtown Montezuma on Road 624. Many expats in the area also favor it, so you may not get the beach to yourself, although it remains off the tourist radar. This local hangout spot, less than a half-hour walk south of Montezuma, has white sand, turquoise water, tons of tide pools, and enough fish to warrant breaking out your snorkel gear. It also has a strong rip current at times, so remain mindful when you swim.

Local Guides and Tours

Zuma Tours

Road 624, across from the fútbol field; tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net; 7am-9pm daily

If you’re in the market for tours around Montezuma or you need transportation to or from town, turn to longtime local outfitter Zuma Tours. This company has it all—a large staff of competent and professional individuals, reliable vehicles, fair prices, firsthand knowledge of the area, and a positive reputation that speaks for itself. It also provides nearly every service imaginable, including day trips to nearby Isla Tortuga, water-taxi services between the Nicoya Peninsula and the central Pacific coast, and local ATV rentals. Zuma rarely disappoints.

Yoga

Anamaya Body, Mind, and Spirit Resort

on the road to Delicias, 900 m (984 yd) west of Road 624; tel. 506/2642-1289; www.anamayaresort.com

Montezuma’s best yoga resort is the Anamaya Body, Mind, and Spirit Resort. The resort is known for its one-week yoga retreats ($895-1,995 pp) and 200-hour yoga teacher training programs ($3,495-4,595 pp), both of which include lodging and all meals. Sway in a hammock, swim in a tranquil infinity pool, reward yourself with spa services, dine on gourmet organic cuisine, and surround yourself with nature; then breathe in fresh air and exhale any remaining stress. The resort encourages you to do it all and more, including practicing yoga in an open-air shala with a panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean. Retreats run back-to-back throughout the year. There is typically one teacher training program starting each month.

Zip-Lining

Suntrails

on the road to Delicias, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) northwest of Road 624; tel. 506/8467-8989; www.suntrails.com; 8:30am-5:30pm daily

The nine-cable Canopy Tour (9am, 1pm, and 3pm daily; 2.5 hours; $55 adults, $42 ages 5-12; min. age 5) created by Suntrails is a basic zip-line tour with a twist: It includes a visit to the Cataratas Montezuma. During the fittingly nicknamed Montezuma Waterfall Canopy Tour, you’ll have an opportunity to admire the two upper waterfalls between the sixth and seventh zip-line cables. Wear your bathing suit under your clothes if you want to plunge into the swimming hole at the bottom of either cascade. If you’re coming from Santa Teresa, Carmen, or Malpaís, Zuma Tours (tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net) can provide round-trip transportation ($25 adults, $18 ages 5-11) between the canopy tour site and hotels in these areas.

Food

Restaurante Sano Banano

on the main road in Montezuma; tel. 506/2642-0638; www.restaurant.elsanobanano.com; 7am-9:30pm daily; $7-11.50

If you’re a vegan, vegetarian, or foodie that digs the occasional plant-based dish, you’ll love dining at the casual and affordable Restaurante Sano Banano, inside the hotel that shares its name. The meal variety alone is impressive; there are vegan sandwiches, salads, spring rolls, pastas, and curries, plus vegetarian wraps, fajitas, and burritos. Take the food outside and enjoy it on the lovely garden-clad patio.

Puggo’s

750 m (820 yd) north of the road to Delicias, 3 km (1.9 mi) west of Road 624; tel. 506/8913-7091; 5pm-10pm Thurs.-Mon.; $8-16

Despite moving around Montezuma a few times, the well-established Puggo’s continues to offer a sophisticated dining experience. The restaurant’s savory, well-prepared, and beautifully presented international meals are equally elegant. The menu changes occasionally, but the cuisine slants steadily toward Mediterranean influences. Several plates, including my favorite at this restaurant—hummus and falafel—are vegetarian or vegan. What reels in most regulars is the Moroccan stew.

S Playa de los Artistas

Road 624, 250 m (273 yd) north of the road to Delicias; tel. 506/2642-0316; hours vary; $8-19, cash only

For high-quality food, Montezuma’s standout restaurant is the beachfront Playa de los Artistas. The chef creates a new handwritten short menu daily, inspired by the freshest ingredients available, so part of the fun is the element of surprise. Regardless of what is served (usually fish dishes), meals regularly receive rave reviews for their exquisite preparation, presentation, and taste. Grab a table on the beach before dark so you can fully appreciate the ocean view.

Bars and Nightlife

Chico’s Bar

on the main road parallel to Playa Montezuma; tel. 506/8683-9242; 11am-2am daily

Chico’s Bar is the main gathering place in town, but for no good reason other than there are few other places to go. During the day, the beachfront bar is a decent place to grab a drink. After dark, it gets loud, attracts a mix of locals and tourists, and has DJs and dancing.

Art Garden

on the main road in Montezuma at Sano Banano; tel. 506/2642-0638; www.restaurant.elsanobanano.com; 7am-9:30pm daily

Movie nights, televised sports games, and live music performances can be enjoyed in the Art Garden, the outdoor space at Restaurante Sano Banano. This is a great spot to take advantage of happy hour (3pm-6pm daily) and try the town’s signature “Montezuma” cocktail, built with vodka and passion fruit.

Puggo’s

750 m (820 yd) north of the road to Delicias, 3 km (1.9 mi) west of Road 624; tel. 506/8913-7091; 5pm-10pm Thurs.-Mon.

On the outskirts of Montezuma, live music performances and open-mike nights are hosted at Puggo’s, usually on Sundays.

Accommodations

Sano Banano

35 m (115 yd) southeast of Road 624 on the main road in Montezuma; tel. 506/2642-0638; www.elsanobanano.com; $95 s/d

One of Montezuma’s longest running and least expensive accommodations is Sano Banano, although some say it’s overpriced. The economy hotel has 12 simple rooms with 1-4 beds for 1-5 people, colorful tapestries, hand-painted walls, and air-conditioning, but its greatest asset is its location. In Montezuma center, the hotel is steps away from restaurants, the beach, and the water-taxi port. Breakfast is included, and guests are permitted to use the pool and hammocks at the Ylang Ylang Beach Resort, a sister hotel to Sano Banano.

S Sunshine Sanctuary

on the road to Delicias, 750 m (820 yd) west of Road 624; tel. 506/7014-8394; www.sunshinesanctuarycostarica.com; $150 s/d

The Sunshine Sanctuary is my favorite Montezuma hotel. Perched atop the hill that descends into town, the property offers astounding ocean and forest views. The six rooms have comfortable king or queen beds, shiny tile floors, air-conditioning, flat-screen televisions, and a wall of glass with sliding doors. I’ve seen aracaris in the trees, heard monkeys howl, and even spotted a whale breaching offshore from the room’s private balcony. As a guest, you’ll have free access to the hotel’s hanging bridge and a private trail that connects to the Cataratas Montezuma.

Ylang Ylang Beach Resort

on Playa Montezuma, 1 km (0.6 mi) northeast of Montezuma center; tel. 506/2642-0523; www.ylangylangbeachresort.com; room $265 s/d, cabin $277 s/d, bungalow $365 s/d; 2-night min.

On the beach is the prestigious Ylang Ylang Beach Resort, a 15-minute-walk up the coast from downtown Montezuma. This honeymooner hideout, which also hosts wedding ceremonies, has a spa, a pool, a yoga deck, and a restaurant serving organic gourmet cuisine; breakfast and dinner are included in the rates. Room choices (some sleep 1-2; others can accommodate up to 4) are recently renovated wood cabins tucked away in the forest, rooms by the beach, and individual bungalows with floor-to-ceiling glass doors and private terraces.

Tango Mar

1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of Road 160, 9.5 km (5.9 mi) east of Cóbano, Tambor; tel. 506/2683-0001; www.tangomar.com; room $360 s/d, tiki suite $470 s/d

If your reason for visiting Montezuma is to see the area’s top attractions, not Montezuma center, stay at Tango Mar. (The hotel is a half-hour drive up the coast and closer to Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú and Isla Tortuga.) Contained within a guarded complex is the hotel’s row of Polynesian-style tiki suites, each one steps from a private-feeling beach. Additional rooms are up a steep hill. All accommodations are fresh, clean, classy, tropical-themed, and outfitted with one or two king or queen beds, wood furniture, and a TV. Hotel guests get exclusive trail access to the top of the nearby El Chorro Waterfall and keyed entry to a phenomenal viewpoint that overlooks the Pacific coastline from above.

Polynesian-style tiki suites at Tango Mar

Information and Services

There are few services in Montezuma proper. You’ll need to go to nearby Cóbano, 5 km (3.1 mi) northwest on Road 624, for most services.

Nicoya’s Hospital La Anexión (Road 150, 300 m/328 yd north of the justice courts, Nicoya; tel. 506/2685-8400; 24 hours daily) serves most of the Nicoya Peninsula. It’s a 2.5- to 3-hour drive northwest of Montezuma.

In Cóbano, you’ll find the clinic Ebais Cóbano (Road 624, 250 m/273 yd west of Road 160, Cóbano; tel. 506/2642-0208; 24 hours daily) and Farmacia Montecristo (Road 624, 75 m/246 ft west of Road 160, Cóbano; tel. 506/2642-1119; 7am-7pm Mon.-Fri., 7am-6pm Sat.).

The closest bank is the Banco Nacional (Road 160 and Road 624, Cóbano; tel. 506/2212-2000; 8:30am-3:45pm Mon.-Fri.) in Cóbano. Most businesses, with the exception of some small shops, accept credit cards.

Cóbano also has a post office (Road 624, 50 m/164 ft east of Road 160, Cóbano; tel. 506/2783-3500; 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Fri.) and a police station (Road 160, 350 m/383 yd north of Road 624, Cóbano; tel. 506/2642-0770; 24 hours daily).

Fuel up at Cóbano’s gas station (Road 160, 1 km/0.6 mi northeast of Road 624); Montezuma doesn’t have a bomba (gas station) of its own.

Getting There

Most routes at the southern end of the Nicoya Peninsula lead to Cóbano. From there, a quick 5-km (3.1-mi) (10-minute) journey down the hillside on Road 624 ends in Montezuma.

Car

Montezuma is a 140-km (87-mi), four-hour journey west from downtown San José that consists of a 100-km 62-mi), two-hour drive to Puntarenas on Highways 1 and 17, a one-hour ferry crossing to Paquera, and a 40-km (25-mi), one-hour drive to Montezuma on Road 160 and Road 624. This combination of ground and water transportation is a prime opportunity to take in the views of the gulf. Montezuma can also be reached from downtown San José via a tiring 310-km (190-mi), 5.5-hour drive around the gulf via Highways 1, 18, and 21 and Road 160.

From downtown Liberia, it’s a 210-km (130-mi), four-hour drive southeast on Highway 21 and Roads 160 and 624 to Montezuma.

From Santa Teresa and Malpaís, a pressed-gravel road known locally as “the road to Delicias” cuts east-west across the peninsula and connects with Montezuma, passing the farming community of Delicias along the way. This 15-km (9.3-mi) drive takes 40 minutes.

Private Transfer Service

Private transfer services to virtually any destination in the country can be hired through Zuma Tours (Road 624, across from the fútbol field; tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net; 7am-9pm daily). Prices average $250 from San José.

Shared Shuttle Service

Zuma Tours (Road 624, across from the fútbol field; tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net; 7am-9pm daily) also runs shared shuttle services to Montezuma from San José, Liberia, La Fortuna, Monteverde, Tamarindo, Nosara, Sámara, beach towns on the central Pacific coast, and Sierpe. Routes from San José, Sierpe, and beach towns on the central Pacific coast consist of ground transportation and either a ferry or water-taxi ride. All other routes are ground transfer services only. One-way services cost $90 pp from San José.

Water Taxi

To get to Montezuma from the central Pacific coast, take one of the water taxis that commute daily between Playa Herradura and Montezuma. Zuma Tours (tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net) operates a taxi boat service ($55 adults, $40 ages 6-12) that takes 75-90 minutes. There’s an extra fee ($5-20) to travel with a surfboard.

Bus

Public buses travel to Montezuma from San José. This route typically includes a timed transfer in Cóbano, where you’ll get off the bus you boarded in San José and immediately board a bus bound for Montezuma.

To get to Montezuma from Santa Teresa and Malpaís, take the bus from Carmen (between Santa Teresa and Malpaís) to Cóbano and catch one of many buses from there to Montezuma. When you board in Carmen, ask the bus driver, “¿Por favor, puede parar en Cóbano?” (“Can you please stop in Cóbano?”). Buses stop in front of Banco Nacional, on the corner of Roads 624 and 160 in Cóbano. To identify a bus bound for Montezuma, look for signage in the front window. In Montezuma, buses end their run on Road 624 by the waterfront, one block south of the village center.

Getting Around

Walking around town is easy and only takes a few minutes. The Ylang Ylang Beach Resort (Playa Montezuma, 1 km (0.6 mi) northeast of downtown Montezuma; tel. 506/2642-0523; www.ylangylangbeachresort.com) has bikes and ATVs for rent (bike $18 per day, ATV $95 per day) if you want to speed up the process.

Accommodations and other businesses dot the hills that surround the village; several are on roads with a steep incline or decline. If you are driving, a 4WD vehicle is not required but is recommended. Taxis, although scarce in Montezuma, can help you get up or down the area’s hills if you prefer not to hike.

RESERVA NATURAL ABSOLUTA CABO BLANCO

Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve, Road 624, 9 km (5.6 mi) south of Montezuma; tel. 506/2642-0093; www.sinac.go.cr; 8am-4pm Wed.-Sun., last entry 2pm; $12 adults, $5 ages 2-12

Declared the country’s first protected land in 1963, the Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco has led the way for nature conservation in Costa Rica. Comprising roughly 3,400 acres of land and 4,200 acres of water, the reserve encompasses the entire southern tip of the Nicoya Peninsula and a wide perimeter of ocean.

Come to the reserve to walk its forested trails. After you’ve hiked up a sweat, spend some time relaxing on the beach near Cabo Blanco, the cape for which the reserve is named; this is the southernmost part of the peninsula. Two km (1.2 mi) due south of the cape and visible from the beach is the rocky Isla Capitán (Capitán Island), sometimes called Isla Cabo Blanco (Cabo Blanco Island). Anteaters, armadillos, deer, monkeys, pacas, and the odd jungle cat inhabit the forest. Frigate birds, brown boobies, pelicans, and other seabirds congregate at the cape, making it the region’s best bird-watching locale. A seemingly endless list of marinelife fills the reserve’s protected waters and the expansive ocean beyond.

The reserve has two official entrances, but only the easternmost entrance, closest to Montezuma, is open to the public. A biological station equipped with restrooms and picnic tables marks the public entrance.

Local Guides and Tours

Tropical Tours Shuttles

Las Piedras road, 50 m (164 ft) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Santa Teresa; tel. 506/2640-1900; www.tropicaltourshuttles.com; 8am-9pm daily

You can explore the reserve’s three trails on your own, but tour operators around the peninsula will gladly sell you the services of a guide. Based in Santa Teresa, Tropical Tours Shuttles runs a popular Cabo Blanco Absolute Nature Reserve Tour (7am daily; 5 hours; $75 pp) that includes round-trip transportation from Montezuma, Santa Teresa, Carmen, or Malpaís; a naturalist tour guide; snacks; and the reserve’s entrance fee.

Hiking

Sendero Arboretum

Arboretum Trail; 1-km (0.6-mi) loop; 20-30 minutes; easy

The Sendero Arboretum is a quick loop that offers a peek at the reserve’s rare tree collection, which flourishes within a contradictory mix of tropical dry forest and moist forest ecosystems.

Sendero Danés

Danés Trail; 2-km (1.2-mi) loop; 45 minutes; moderate

One of the park’s most trekked trails, the Sendero Danés introduces hikers to the reserve’s lush secondary forest, leaf-swept paths, and resident fauna. Monkeys and birds are the easiest wildlife to spot along this trail.

Sendero Sueco

Sueco Trail; 4 km (2.5 mi) one-way; 2 hours; difficult

The Sendero Sueco, a linear offshoot of the Sendero Danés, provides a more challenging and therefore less traveled route throughout the reserve. It will have you trudging uphill and downhill through thick brush and humid air, and possibly muddy patches too, with the goal of reaching Playa Cabo Blanco, the reserve’s principal beach. Although stones largely cover the light-sand coastline, visits to the spot are hardly disappointing. Simply being at this remote beach surrounded by dramatic hills, and viewing a limitless and thought-provoking sky and ocean, is rewarding enough.

Getting There

The reserve, in the southernmost corner of the Nicoya Peninsula, is best accessed by car from Montezuma. Follow Road 624 south out of Montezuma for 8.5 km (5.3 mi) until it ends at the reserve’s entrance. Worth momentarily pulling over for as the road enters Cabuya, a hamlet you’ll pass through approximately 2.5 km (1.5 mi) before arriving at the reserve’s entrance, is the giant hollow higuerón tree (strangler fig, or ficus) you can stand inside. Look for it on the right side of Road 624 behind the “Bienvenidos a Cabuya” sign.

REFUGIO NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE CURÚ

Curú National Wildlife Refuge, Road 160, 30 km (19 mi) northeast of Montezuma; tel. 506/6209-3846; www.curuwildliferefuge.com; 7am-4pm daily; $16 pp

Off-the-beaten-path travelers, rejoice! Less touristy than most of the country’s nature reserves is the small Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú. At this 200-acre reserve, you can wander along nature trails without a guide, observe various ecosystems, spot animals and reptiles (monkeys, coatimundis, raccoons, deer, peccaries, kinkajous, snakes, iguanas, and crocodiles inhabit the refuge), and relax on a beach with few other people in sight. Reminiscent of an earlier, undeveloped Costa Rica, Curú has flora and fauna, not bells and whistles. It’s not the cleanest attraction to tour, nor are trails and bridges in the ramshackle refuge in perfect condition, but its rustic feel is part of the draw. A small booth marks the entrance off the highway. Shack-like structures inside the refuge house a visitor center.

Beaches

Playa Cúru

You can drive directly to Playa Cúru, the main beach in the refuge, from the entrance; the beach is 2.5 km (1.5 mi) east of the entrance. The tour outfitter Turismo Curú operates from this beach, where a line of boats rests on the sand, ready to transport travelers to Isla Tortuga. You may find some hikers swimming at this gray-sand beach, but few other people. This stretch of the coast is only accessible to those who pay the refuge entrance fee.

The view from this beach is particularly pretty. Protected land backs the beach, and hilly headlands curve around the beach to the north and south; an island sits 2 km (1.2 mi) offshore. The scenery makes this place feel private.

Playa Quesera

The refuge’s most beautiful beach, Playa Quesera has nearly white sand, a row of palm trees, and few visitors. You can swim in the calm blue-green water or sunbathe on what feels like your own secret beach—a segment of the Pacific coast that’s merely 100 m (109 yd) long and a few kilometers removed from the nearest hint of civilization. To reach Playa Quesera on foot, take the challenging Sendero Quesera north from Playa Cúru and follow the trail until it ends at the beach.

Playa Quesera sometimes closes to the public. If your primary purpose of visiting the refuge is to spend time at this particular beach, verify with the refuge or its only tour operator, Turismo Curú (tel. 506/2641-0014; www.turismocuru.com; 7am-9pm daily), that it’s open before you set off from your home base. When Playa Quesera is open, visitors are advised to reserve a visit to the beach by contacting the refuge by telephone.

Local Guides and Tours

Turismo Curú

on Playa Curú; tel. 506/2641-0014; www.turismocuru.com; 7am-9pm daily

In addition to providing hiking guides ($23-29 pp) and round-trip boat transportation (9am and 12:15pm daily from Playa Cúru, 12:30pm and 3:30pm daily from Playa Quesera; $15 pp), Turismo Curú also rents kayaks ($11.50-17.50 per hour) and runs guided kayak, horseback riding, sportfishing, and scuba diving tours.

Depending on water conditions around the bay, it takes 5-10 minutes to travel from Playa Cúru to Playa Quesera by boat and 30-45 minutes by kayak.

Hiking

Sendero Finca de los Monos

Finca de los Monos Trail; 2.5 km (1.5 mi) one-way; 1 hour; easy-moderate

A network of over a dozen trails, ranging from easy to challenging, threads the refuge. I like Sendero Finca de los Monos, a narrow forest trail that begins near the visitor center and ends at the south end of Playa Cúru. The trail is a good option for wildlife-viewing; it closely parallels and crosses over Río Curú, where much of the resident wildlife sources water.

Sendero Quesera

Quesera Trail; 5 km (3.1 mi) one-way; 2-2.5 hours; difficult

The Sendero Quesera is the refuge’s most challenging trail. It requires you to climb up and over the dense forest-filled headland at the north end of the refuge, but your reward is a visit to beautiful Playa Quesera. If you don’t want to hike back to Playa Cúru, Turismo Curú can pick you up at Playa Quesera by boat (12:30pm and 3:30pm daily; $15 pp) with advance notice. Notify Turismo Curú upon arrival at the refuge, before setting off on the hike, if you wish to use their boat transportation service.

Getting There

The refuge is best accessed by car. From Montezuma, it’s a 35-km (22-mi), one-hour drive northeast on Road 624 and Road 160. The small entrance to the reserve is on the east side of the road; it resembles a parking booth. Turismo Curú is located within the refuge, so travelers planning to participate in one of the outfitter’s tours must pay the refuge entrance fee separately, on the way into the refuge. Account for the added cost when budgeting for your trip.

S ISLA TORTUGA

If you envision paradise as an island with lush vegetation and snow-white sand surrounded by gentle turquoise waters, you’re dreaming of Isla Tortuga (Tortuga Island). The uninhabited island lies a mere 3 km (1.9 mi) off the coast of the Nicoya Peninsula, just east of the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú, yet it remains largely undeveloped. The smell of barbecued food, the warm touch of sunshine, and the sight of palm trees swaying in the breeze here are enough to make you giddy with glee.

The island, whose official name is Isla Tolinga, though you’ll only hear it referred to as Isla Tortuga, is one of the Nicoya Peninsula’s most popular destinations. Visits here are typically all-inclusive day trips that include boat transportation to and from the island, meals, and optional activities like snorkeling, banana boat rides, and kayaking. Overnight stays are not permitted. Most excursions are full-day adventures that depart in the early morning, dock at Playa Tolinga (Tolinga Beach)—Isla Tortuga’s main beach—and return in the late afternoon.

Local Guides and Tours

Turismo Curú

on Playa Curú; tel. 506/2641-0014; www.turismocuru.com; 7am-9pm daily

The island’s stunning beauty attracts hordes of travelers, the majority of whom come ashore at Playa Tolinga. Here’s the secret to enjoying a slice of dreamy Isla Tortuga all to yourself: Sign up for the Tortuga Island Tour (9am daily; 3.5 hours; $35 pp plus $16 pp wildlife refuge entrance fee) operated by Turismo Curú. Following an hour-long snorkeling excursion at Islas Mortero (the Mortero Islands), a group of islets encountered on the way to Isla Tortuga, Turismo Curú’s no-frills, half-day tour visits Playa Tropical (Tropical Beach), a secluded beach on Isla Tortuga that’s separated from Playa Tolinga (and crowds) by a rocky headland. At this heavenly bare beach, you’ll have a few hours to sunbathe in solitude, wade in shallow water away from other swimmers, and bask in the blissfulness of the island with little distraction. Subject to boat availability, longer day trips can be arranged through the tour operator. Turismo Curú is based out of the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú. Though you’ll need your own vehicle to drive to their establishment on the beach inside the refuge, round-trip transportation to Isla Tortuga (10-15 minutes by small boat) is included in the tour cost.

Zuma Tours

Road 624, across from the fútbol field, Montezuma; tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net; 7am-9pm daily

To reach the island from Montezuma, Santa Teresa, or Malpaís, go with Zuma Tours. The Montezuma-based operator, which generally serves a young crowd, supplies boat transportation, snorkel gear, lunch, nonalcoholic drinks, and two cans of beer with its Tortuga Island Snorkeling Tour (from Montezuma: 9am daily; 7 hours; $80 adults, $50 ages 6-12; from Santa Teresa or Malpaís: 7:45am daily; 9 hours; $99 adults, $65 ages 6-12).

Bay Island Cruises

Avenida 61 at Calle 3, San José; tel. 506/2235-3536; www.bayislandcruises.com; 8am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-noon Sat.

From San José, Puntarenas, Jacó, Manuel Antonio, La Fortuna, Monteverde, and select destinations in Guanacaste, you can reach the island by taking the Isla Tortuga Tour (9 hours; $135 adults, $105 ages 3-10; transportation from some destinations requires an extra fee) coordinated by the San José-based Bay Island Cruises. This tour begins at 7:30am with breakfast at Bay Island’s dock in Puntarenas. From there, it’s a 90-minute cruise on a yacht to the island, where you’ll spend roughly five hours enjoying the beach and the water at Playa Tolinga. Lunch served on the island is complimentary; optional activities, including snorkeling, kayaking, and banana boat rides, cost extra. Be forewarned: Although the trip is family-friendly, the yacht feels like a party boat, with loud music, a top-floor jetted tub, and optional open-bar packages ($15-53 pp).

Getting There

The island is typically accessed by boat. Excursions run year-round with departures from (and returns to) the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú, Montezuma, Santa Teresa, Malpaís, San José, Puntarenas, Jacó, Manuel Antonio, La Fortuna, Monteverde, and beach towns in Guanacaste.

Experienced kayakers can paddle to the island from the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú. Turismo Curú rents kayaks ($11.50-17.50 per hour).

Santa Teresa, Carmen, and Malpaís

The southwest side of the Nicoya Peninsula’s tip is a long stretch of flat coastline comprising several beaches separated by rocky outcroppings, coves, and headlands. Spread out along the coast are three laid-back but top-quality beachfront communities: Santa Teresa, Carmen, and Malpaís (sometimes styled as Mal País). Thanks to the monster waves that develop offshore, surfing is one of the area’s main attractions. Yoga is another principal draw. Travelers from around the world come to this remote part of the country for surf and yoga retreats hosted in high-end settings. This is a place where it’s easy to feel calm and relaxed, and the vibe is barefoot luxury.

There is little distinction between the adjoining communities of Santa Teresa and Carmen. Santa Teresa is north of Carmen, but it’s anyone’s guess where one ends and the other begins. Together, they serve as the area’s commercial hub, with the majority of the area’s hotels, restaurants, offices, services, and shops. The two communities also front the area’s best surf breaks, so either makes a good home base to catch some waves. Most places where you can practice yoga are in Santa Teresa.

Smaller and less-visited Malpaís, a dispersed settlement dotted with development, is 5 km (3.1 mi) south of Carmen. Stay in Malpaís only if you want to isolate yourself from the area’s low-key action.

The unnamed principal access road leads to Santa Teresa, Carmen, and Malpaís from the northeast at Cóbano. It enters the area just shy of the ocean at Carmen. It intersects with the unpaved main drag, unofficially called “Las Piedras” (The Stones), a bumpy north-south road that parallels the coast. The intersection, called el cruce (the crossing), is a common point of reference. Turn right at the intersection (head north) and you’ll travel through the area’s concentrated center, which blends with Santa Teresa. Make a left turn (south) and you’ll drive along a forlorn-feeling road through the spread-out community of Malpaís. Often discussed interchangeably, Santa Teresa, Carmen, and Malpaís share the various services provided within their 6-km (3.7-mi) span of coastline.

BEACHES

Rip currents are known hazards in the area. Comprising volunteers, the local nonprofit Santa Teresa Lifeguards (www.santateresalifeguards.org) has four watchtowers on the three most visited beaches in the area—Playa Carmen, Playa Santa Teresa, and Playa Hermosa—at spots where the water is particularly rough. Lifeguards keep watch on weekends and holidays only (9am-noon and 3pm-6pm).

Playa Carmen

At the end of the main road that leads into town, Playa Carmen is close to several restaurants, shops, and services. It’s the centermost beach in the area and a popular choice with visitors, but it’s large enough that there’s always enough space to stretch out. The striking light-colored sand pleases sunbathers, and the consistent beach break, with a long right and short left, speaks to surfers.

Playa Santa Teresa

The area’s best-known beach, Playa Santa Teresa is beautiful: It has 2.5 km (1.5 mi) of shimmery cream-colored sand with hardly any debris and a verdant green backdrop. It’s also a famed surf site. There’s plenty to impress both intermediate-level surfers and pros, from predictable beach breaks to first-rate point breaks. If you’re not a surfer, you can watch the action from anywhere along the beach, especially at the waterfront restaurant and bar Rocamar (Las Piedras road, 4 km/2.5 mi northwest of the intersection at Carmen; tel. 506/8862-8000; 11am-7pm Tues.-Sun.), which has a direct view of the area’s advanced-level surf spot: Suck Rock. When the conditions aren’t favorable there, surfers congregate 1.5 km (0.9 mi) down the coast at the consistent surf break known as La Lora.

Playa Hermosa

Travel 3 km (1.9 mi) up the coast from Santa Teresa, on the dusty road that parallels Playa Santa Teresa, and you’ll find Playa Hermosa, a palm-lined beach with gray-tinged sand. Playa Hermosa is less frequented than Playa Carmen and Playa Santa Teresa, has waves for beginner and intermediate surfers, and is great for sunbathing.

Playa Malpaís

The jagged coastline at Malpaís has rocky outcroppings and sandy stretches. Near the beached fishing boats at the pescadería (fish market) is Playa Malpaís. Locals hang out at this beach, which has beautiful turquoise water you can swim in. It also has sand strewn with stones and a shore roughened by several rock formations. While a much more pristine and secluded swimming spot awaits 400 m (0.25 mi) down the coast at Playa Los Suecos, this beach is a decent option if you’re based in Malpaís and would prefer not to isolate yourself from most other beachgoers.

S Playa Los Suecos (Playa Cuevas)

GOOGLE MAP

The primary reason to venture south from Carmen and Santa Teresa toward Malpaís is to experience the cove at Playa Los Suecos, which also goes by the name Playa Cuevas. Surrounded on three sides by lush vegetation and tall rock formations, the place is private, quiet, and the epitome of paradise. The beach has nearly white sand with finely crushed shells; the water is aquamarine—almost teal in places; and the shore deepens gradually. At high tide, the spot is great for snorkeling, as marinelife from the nearby Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco comes to visit. Low tide exposes rocky areas and creates lovely little pools perfect for soaking in, as if they were your own personal bath.

Low tide is also when Punta Murciélago (Bat Point) becomes the main attraction. You can’t miss the charcoal-colored escarpment at the north end of the beach. Less obvious are the hundreds of bats that occupy the giant rock’s crevice. To see the creatures, or at least to hear their communal squeaks, you’ll need to wade through water and climb over large rocks. These rocks are uneven and slippery, and they also hide mollusks and tiny crabs. Watch out for waves that crash into the spot and can throw you off balance. Strap-on shoes are a must. Only attempt the walk at low tide: If you get caught on the point as the tide rises and swallows your path, it’s a rough, dangerous swim back to the shore. As you approach the bats, be sure to remain quiet. Don’t disturb the colony by going too far into the rock’s opening.

To find Playa Los Suecos, take the road to Malpaís as far south as it leads—roughly 4 km (2.5 mi) from the intersection at Carmen, a 15-minute drive. Just after the blocked gate, a staff-only entrance to the Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco, a clearing in the forest has room for a handful of vehicles to park. A short trail, sometimes with a small stream running through it, leads from the lot to the beach. As with any secluded beach, don’t go alone.

RECREATION

TOP EXPERIENCE

S Surf and Yoga Retreats

The calmness that wafts throughout Santa Teresa, Carmen, and Malpaís makes the area an ideal and peaceful place to surf and practice yoga. It isn’t too developed, and so lacks distracting sights and sounds, and it’s remote enough to avoid big crowds. Both residents and visitors share an interest in the same recreational activities, lending an inclusive vibe to the area. Retreats here don’t just teach surf skills and provide yoga classes; they also welcome you into a community that some call Costa Rica’s surf and yogic soul.

Lucero Surf Retreats

Fuego Lodge road, 150 m (164 yd) east of Las Piedras road, Santa Teresa; tel. 506/8427-6587; www.costarica-surfvacations.com

To better yourself through focused and cathartic surfing, I recommend the weekly Lucero Surf Retreats. Conducted in the heart of Santa Teresa, the small-scale but social Surf and Stay retreats ($1,085-1,540 pp) comprise four lessons, complete with in-depth surf theory and photo souvenirs, and unlimited surfboard rentals through the week. The retreat also includes a six-night stay in Lucero’s chic boutique hotel and a healthy breakfast each day. A team of friendly, detail-oriented, and encouraging instructors works hard to make sure you enjoy the entire experience. Come ready to learn how to surf, have fun, and meet new friends.

Shaka Costa Rica

Las Piedras road, 6.5 km (4 mi) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Playa Hermosa; tel. 506/2640-1118; www.shakacostarica.com

For a remote retreat, look 20 minutes northwest of Santa Teresa and Malpaís to Shaka Costa Rica. The multiday surf retreats ($350 per day; 5-day min.; min. age 15) take place in a tranquil setting near Playa Hermosa and include daily surf lessons, surfboard use, lodging, a snack, brunch, and dinner each day, plus yoga classes and snorkeling gear. If you’re not a surfer, a lighter version of the retreat, called the Chill Package ($280 per day; 5-day min.; min. age 15), includes the same room and board but focuses on yoga practice.

Funky Monkey Lodge

Classy Palms road, 200 m (219 yd) northeast of Las Piedras road, Santa Teresa; tel. 506/2640-0272; www.funkymonkeylodge.com

Love yoga and surfing? The Funky Monkey Lodge combines both pleasures with its build-your-own surf and yoga packages. Accommodations ($159-349 s/d), surf lessons ($75 pp), yoga classes ($40 pp), and meals are all offered by the lodge; you can combine whichever components interest you, creating a customized retreat experience. Classes in aerial silks (aerial acrobatics while hanging from a fabric) are also offered.

Pura Vida Adventures

tel. 506/2640-0062; www.puravidaadventures.com

Awesome, empowering women-only surf and yoga retreats ($4,695-5,695 pp) are hosted by Pura Vida Adventures. Beyond common inclusions, like lodging, daily surf lessons and yoga classes, and complimentary surfboard use, these seven-day retreats also provide video analyses of your surf progress, a rash guard you can keep, and a therapeutic massage. Three healthy gourmet meals are offered daily and can accommodate vegetarian, vegan, lactose-intolerant, and gluten-free dietary preferences. The best thing about these retreats is the feeling of community that comes from joining Pura Vida’s band of “surf sisters.”

Surfing

If surf retreats aren’t your thing, just grab a board and hit the waves or take a single surf lessons. In Santa Teresa, board shops are all around.

Del Soul Surf School

Las Piedras road, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Santa Teresa; tel. 506/8878-0880; www.surfvacationcostarica.com; 8am-6pm daily

Renting a board ($15-20 per day) from the trusty Del Soul Surf School is a safe choice. You can also hire a helpful surf instructor through the school if you’re up for taking a surf lesson (1.5 hours; 2-3 students per instructor; $75 pp). Beginner and intermediate-level surf lessons are offered.

Mal País Surf Camp

Las Piedras road, 500 m (0.3 mi) south of the intersection at Carmen, Malpaís; tel. 506/2640-0031; www.malpaissurfcamp.com

If you’re based in Malpaís or Carmen, get a board from the Mal País Surf Camp. Surfboard rental will run you $15-25 per day, with discounts for weekly rentals.

Yoga

Several establishments in Santa Teresa offer public yoga classes. Most welcome one-time visitors but also sell multiclass passes that make attending additional sessions more affordable.

Casa Zen

just south of Las Piedras road, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Carmen; tel. 506/2640-0523; www.zencostarica.com [URL inactive]; multiple classes daily; 90 minutes; $14 pp

At the drop-in yoga classes at Casa Zen, steps away from Playa Santa Teresa, you’ll practice yoga in an open-air second-floor space fringed by palms. Multiclass passes ($45-130 pp) can be purchased for 4, 6, 8, or 12 days.

Horizon Hotel and Yoga Center

east of Las Piedras road, 500 m (0.3 mi) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Carmen; tel. 506/2640-0524; www.horizon-yogahotel.com; class schedule and duration vary; $15 pp

Yoga classes at the Horizon Hotel and Yoga Center take place on a top-floor yoga deck with vast ocean views. You can take in the view multiple times during your time in the area by purchasing one of the center’s 4-, 8-, or 15-day multiclass passes ($50-120 pp).

Zip-Lining

Canopy del Pacífico

700 m (766 yd) east of the fish market at Playa Malpaís, Malpaís; tel. 506/2640-0360; www.canopymalpais.com; 8am-5pm daily

The panoramic views of the ocean and the Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco are the best reason to take the eight-cable Canopy Tour (9am, 11am, and 3pm daily; 1-1.5 hours; $65 pp; min. age 3) run by Canopy del Pacífico. If you’re the gutsy type, you’ll also love the forward-facing Superman cable and the option to try zip-lining upside down. The tour’s surf line lets you try out the newest zip-lining trend to hit Costa Rica: riding a zip-line cable while standing on a dual-cable-controlled surfboard. Fun and attentive tour guides make this zip-line tour full of zany adventures a blast to complete.

FOOD

Costa Rican

Soda Pura Vida

Las Piedras road, 2.2 km (1.4 mi) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Santa Teresa; tel. 506/2640-0798; 10am-9:30pm daily; $7.50-13

When you could go for a casado or another simple, satisfying Costa Rican meal, dine at Soda Pura Vida. The unembellished restaurant has only a few wood tables set out on a shaded pressed-gravel patio, but it impresses where it counts: with sizable portions of tasty food at fair prices.

Tierra Mar

Las Piedras road, 3.2 km (2 mi) south of the intersection at Carmen, Malpaís; tel. 506/8514-1914; 10am-9pm Wed.-Mon.; $8-12.50

On the way to Playa Malpaís and Playa Los Suecos is Tierra Mar, a tiny roadside eatery that serves well-constructed casados with delicious plátanos maduros (fried plantains) and rice dishes with flavorful sautéed vegetables on the side. Other lunch and dinner options include burgers and sandwiches, and there are omelets and gallo pinto (a traditional rice and bean blend) for breakfast.

International

S Satori

Las Piedras road, 800 m (875 yd) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Carmen; tel. 506/4082-8492; www.satoricostarica.com; 11am-11pm daily; $11-18.50

Servings of Asian food are common sights in Santa Teresa, but Satori is the town’s top sushi bar. There’s a lot to love about the place; the vibe is sophisticated but not stuffy, the service is usually above par, and the union of Asian and local cultures, as evidenced by the dramatic red and black color scheme and the many decorative native Costa Rican plants, is a nice touch. But what really wows me is the sushi. Satori serves inventive takes on the dish, creating unique pairings that are a joy to look at and taste. More familiar rolls, like California and Philadelphia rolls, as well as Asian tapas are also served. To drink, there’s sake. Reservations, especially for dinner, are recommended.

S Amici

Las Piedras road, 550 m (600 yd) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Carmen; tel. 506/2640-0935; www.amicisantateresa.com; 5:30pm-10pm daily; $13.50-21.50

My perfect dinner consists of a non-greasy pizza with sourdough crust, a glass of fine wine, and a decadent dessert. My go-to place for it is Amici, an unostentatious restaurant that serves fine-dining-level Italian food. The pasta dishes, built with pasta made in-house, as well as the gnocchi, pan-roasted with butter, herbs, seeds, and cheese, are also worth trying. The main part of the restaurant can get busy. Ask for a table on the small outdoor courtyard; it’s a quieter area where you’ll feel like you’re dining in a secret garden.

Vegetarian and Vegan

Drift Bar

Las Piedras road, 650 m (711 yd) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Carmen; tel. 506/8496-6056; www.driftbarcr.com; 11am-10pm Mon.-Sat.; $14-22

Mod cocktail bar by night, Drift Bar functions as a laid-back restaurant by day. Previously serving 100 percent vegetarian food, the restaurant now has meat and fish dishes, but plenty of menu options remain plant-based. Grab a table or booth on the covered patio and peruse an inclusive menu full of flavorful entrées (some vegan, some gluten-free) from around the world, including Indian samosas, Chinese gyozas (dumplings), American-style burgers and sliders, and more. Most restaurants in Costa Rica don’t offer such a wide array of culturally significant dishes, so come with an interest in trying something new or enjoying your favorite international meal.

Cafés and Bakeries

The Bakery

Las Piedras road, 100 m (109 yd) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Carmen; tel. 506/2640-0560; 7am-10pm daily; $10.50-17

With so many yogis and surfers in town, most locals and visitors have a staunch appetite for healthy food. But when it’s time for a treat, something flaky and buttery or rich and sweet, the best place to indulge in one is at The Bakery. This café has a display case full of magnificent and mouthwatering pastries (croissants and eclairs), brownies, cookies, cakes, and mousses that are worthy of inclusion at any French patisserie. Your favorites can be boxed up and taken to go, but dining in at the air-conditioned café can provide relief from the heat. There’s also a comprehensive breakfast, lunch, and dinner menu.

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

Banana Beach

on Playa Carmen, 1 km (0.6 mi) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Carmen; tel. 506/2640-1117; www.bananabeachcr.com; 7am-midnight daily

Banana Beach, a beachfront bar and restaurant with a beach-club feel, is a fun hangout place with a great communal vibe. Before dark, you can take advantage of drink specials, play volleyball, twist in aerial silks, or simply lounge in a hammock. Come nightfall, there’s usually live music and sometimes bonfires.

El Carmen

on Playa Carmen, 225 m (246 yd) southwest of the intersection at Carmen, Carmen; tel. 506/8645-4668; noon-9pm Mon.-Thurs., 9am-10pm Fri.-Sun.

The restaurant and bar El Carmen, which also goes by the names Restaurante Playa Carmen and Café del Mar, is a cool place to chill during the day. Sip drinks at a table on the bar’s covered patio and enjoy the unobstructed view of the waves, wipeouts, and wild runs at Playa Carmen’s in-demand surf break. Live music performances take place here too, as do open-mike nights.

Drift Bar

Las Piedras road, 650 m (711 yd) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Carmen; tel. 506/8496-6056; www.driftbarcr.com; 11am-10pm Mon.-Sat.

For fruity and boozy cocktails any night of the week, head to the contemporary Drift Bar. Most cocktails are prepared using natural cold-pressed juices; mojitos, margaritas, mules, and other specialty drinks, plus wine and beer, are also served. Prefer to drink with your travel mates at your hotel? Drift Bar’s signature cocktails can be ordered to go in 200-milliliter and 1-liter bottles.

Selina Santa Teresa North

Las Piedras road, 2.3 km (1.4 mi) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Santa Teresa; tel. 506/4052-5146; www.selina.com

The hostel Selina Santa Teresa North, not to be confused with the Selina hostel farther south in Carmen, hosts a public event nearly every night of the week. Event programming changes regularly, but examples are art and wine nights, movie nights, and vintage market nights.

ACCOMMODATIONS

In Santa Teresa and Carmen, accommodations line the coast. The beachfront properties offer the convenience of being steps from the ocean and surf breaks, but that makes them popular and, in most cases, extra pricey. Additional places to stay are in Malpaís and spread out on the hills on the north side of Santa Teresa and Carmen’s main drag. Be aware that if you choose either of these areas, you may need to travel by car, ATV, or bike to reach a beach and most of the area’s establishments.

Under $50

Casa del Sol

Las Piedras road, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Carmen; tel. 506/4080-0971; dorm $35 pp, private $107 s, $134 d

A short walk from Playa Santa Teresa, Playa Carmen, and the area’s best restaurants and bars is Casa del Sol. This dual hotel and hostel has a two-story hammock-wrapped bunkhouse with shared baths and mixed-dorm rooms (sleep 1-6). The four standard rooms (sleep 1-3), each with air-conditioning, a double bed and a twin rollaway bed, an enormous bath, and a semi-private front porch facing Santa Teresa’s main drag, provide an upgraded stay at a below-average rate for lodging in the area.

$150-250

Vista de Olas

500 m (0.3 mi) east of Las Piedras road, 1.3 km (0.8 mi) south of the intersection at Carmen, Malpaís; tel. 506/2640-0183; www.vistadeolas.com; room $230 s/d

In Malpaís, the hillside boutique hotel Vista de Olas has seven quaint, soundproof, air-conditioned villas, each with a king-size bed and a private outdoor bath. Wall-to-wall windows frame the Pacific Ocean or the hotel’s rainforest surroundings. The best place to take in the view is from the infinity pool, but don’t expect to have it all to yourself; the popular pool is open to nonguests 4pm-9pm daily. Stay here if you’re not averse to meeting new people, but look elsewhere if you’d prefer a more intimate getaway.

Trópico Latino

Las Piedras road, 750 m (820 yd) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Carmen; tel. 506/8856-7447; www.hoteltropicolatino.com; room $233 s/d, bungalow $360 s/d

A high-value mid-range lodging in Santa Teresa is Trópico Latino. Scattered between the main road and the beach are rooms and bungalows that feature tiled baths and floors, clean white walls, wood beams, natural stonework, and bohemian wall hangings. Some hide among tropical foliage, and others are on the beach. Air-conditioning, hot water, minifridges, and coffeemakers come standard.

Over $250

S Florblanca

Las Piedras road, 4.5 km (2.8 mi) northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Santa Teresa; tel. 506/2640-0232; www.florblanca.com; $1,073.50 s/d; min. age 6

Florblanca, at the quiet north end of Playa Santa Teresa, has been one of my favorite luxury accommodations for a long time. This is where urban sophistication and rural naturalness meet, forming idyllic spaces where comfort comes first. Each of the exquisite villas, rich in exotic wood, bamboo, stone, and tile textures, is equipped with bedrooms, baths, and open-air living spaces. They’ll woo you with plush bedding, soaking tubs, cozy seating options, and tons of natural light. The rest of the property will impress with its two-tier pool, Pilates studio, and renowned health-conscious restaurant Nectar (7am-10pm daily; $18-28).

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

Nicoya’s Hospital La Anexión (Road 150, 300 m/328 yd north of the justice courts, Nicoya; tel. 506/2685-8400; 24 hours daily) serves most of the Nicoya Peninsula. It’s about a 140-km (87-mi), three-hour drive northwest of Santa Teresa and Malpaís.

Santa Teresa has a tourist police office (northeast side of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2640-0856; 24 hours daily) with officers available to assist foreign visitors.

At the main intersection in Carmen, you’ll find two banks with ATMs, one of which is Banco de Costa Rica (tel. 506/2640-1019; 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri., ATM 5am-midnight daily). Across the street is a pharmacy, Farmacia Amiga (tel. 506/2640-0830; 8am-8pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-7pm Sat., 9am-4pm Sun.), and a clinic, Santa Teresa Medical Center (tel. 506/2101-6212; 24 hours daily).

Head to Cóbano, a town about 10 km (6.2 mi) north of Santa Teresa, to find the area’s official police station (Road 160, 350 m/383 yd north of Road 624, Cóbano; tel. 506/2642-0770; 24 hours daily), the closest post office (Road 624, 50 m/164 ft east of Road 160, Cóbano; tel. 506/2783-3500; 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Fri.), and the area’s only gas station (Road 160, 2.7 km/17 mi northeast of the unnamed principal access road).

GETTING THERE

Car

Carmen is a 145-km (90-mi), 4.5-hour journey west from downtown San José that consists of a 100-km (62-mi), 2-hour drive to Puntarenas on Highways 1 and 17, a 1-hour ferry crossing to Paquera, and a 45-km (28-mi), 75-minute drive to Carmen on Road 160 and an unnamed principal access road. If you’d prefer to skip the ferry crossing, Carmen, Santa Teresa, and Malpaís can also be reached from downtown San José via a tiring 315-km (195-mi), 5.5- to 6-hour drive around the gulf via Highways 1, 18, and 21, Road 160, and the unnamed principal access road.

Carmen is a 215-km (133-mi), 4.5-hour drive southeast from downtown Liberia via Highway 21, Road 160, and the unnamed principal access road.

From Montezuma, a pressed-gravel road known locally as “the road to Delicias” cuts east-west across the peninsula and connects with Carmen, passing the farming community of Delicias along the way. This 15-km (9.3-mi) drive takes 40 minutes.

Private Transfer Service

Private transfer services can be hired through Tropical Tours Shuttles (Las Piedras road, 50 m/164 ft northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Carmen; tel. 506/2640-1900; www.tropicaltourshuttles.com; 8am-9pm daily), the area’s best transportation service provider. Prices average around $275 from San José.

Shared Shuttle Service

Several shuttles travel to Santa Teresa and Malpaís. Reputable operators include Tropical Tours Shuttles (Las Piedras road, 50 m/164 ft northwest of the intersection at Carmen, Carmen; tel. 506/2640-1900; www.tropicaltourshuttles.com; 8am-9pm daily), the Montezuma-based Zuma Tours (tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net), and the San José-based Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com). All three cover routes from San José, Liberia, La Fortuna, Monteverde, Nosara, and Sámara. Other shuttles provided by at least one of the three companies depart from beach towns on the northern Pacific coast, beach towns on the central Pacific coast, and Sierpe. Most shuttles consist of ground transportation only, but some services departing from San José, Jacó, Manuel Antonio, Dominical, Uvita, and Sierpe consist of ground transportation and either a ferry ride or water-taxi ride. One-way services cost around $60-100 pp from San José, depending on whether a ferry or water taxi is used.

If you plan to travel with your own surfboard to Santa Teresa or Malpaís, you’ll love that Tropical Tours Shuttles accepts surfboards on their shuttles at no extra cost. Zuma Tours charges $5-20 per board and Interbus charges $15 per board.

Water Taxi

To get from the central Pacific coast to Santa Teresa or Malpaís, take one of the water taxis that commute daily between Playa Herradura and Montezuma. Zuma Tours (tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net) operates a taxi boat service ($66 adults, $50 ages 6-12) that takes approximately 75-90 minutes for the water crossing, with an additional hour for ground transportation to Santa Teresa, Carmen, or Malpaís. There’s an extra fee to travel with a surfboard ($5-20).

Bus

You can travel to Carmen and Santa Teresa by bus from San José or Montezuma. From Montezuma, take the bus to Cóbano and catch one of many buses from there to Carmen or Santa Teresa. To identify a bus bound for Carmen and Santa Teresa, look for signage in the front window. If you’re transferring buses in Cóbano, board your new bus and ask the driver, “¿Por favor, puede parar en Carmen?” (“Can you please stop in Carmen?”) or “¿Por favor, puede parar en Santa Teresa?” (“Can you please stop in Santa Teresa?”). Buses may stop at the main intersection in Carmen or 2.5 km (1.5 mi) up the coast (in front of the small commercial center signed as Plaza Kahuna), where they end their run in Santa Teresa.

GETTING AROUND

Santa Teresa (in the north), Carmen (in the middle), and Malpaís (in the south) are connected by Las Piedras, the area’s coastal road. The 3-km (1.9-mi) run from Carmen to Santa Teresa (also the main drag) is a wide-open, sometimes dusty, walkable stretch that showcases much of the area’s development. From Carmen to Malpaís, the road is a rather desolate 3-kim (1.9-mi) span with only a handful of hotels and restaurants along it. Stick to the area north of Carmen if you want to walk around aimlessly, and only stray south of Carmen if you have a predetermined endpoint in mind.

If you really want to blend in with the crowd, rent an ATV to get around. ATVs are the most common method of transportation within the beach community, and tons of places in Santa Teresa and Carmen have them. The outfitter Pacific Dirt Road (Las Piedras road, 225 m/246 yd northwest of the intersection at Carmen; tel. 506/8875-8452; www.quadtourscostarica.com; 8am-6pm daily) includes helmets, safe driving instruction, and hotel delivery with their ATV rentals ($56-184 per day).

Central Pacific

HIGHLIGHTS

MAP: CENTRAL PACIFIC

ORIENTATION

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Itinerary Ideas

MANUEL ANTONIO AND THE COSTA BALLENA IN THREE DAYS

Puntarenas and Vicinity

MAP: PUNTARENAS

SIGHTS

FOOD AND ACCOMMODATIONS

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

GETTING THERE

PARQUE NACIONAL ISLA DEL COCO

Jacó and Vicinity

MAP: JACÓ

JACÓ AND PLAYA HERMOSA

S PARQUE NACIONAL CARARA

Manuel Antonio and Quepos

MAP: MANUEL ANTONIO AND QUEPOS

MAP: QUEPOS

SIGHTS

BEACHES

RECREATION

MAP: MANUEL ANTONIO

FOOD

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

ACCOMMODATIONS

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

GETTING THERE

GETTING AROUND

S PARQUE NACIONAL MANUEL ANTONIO

Costa Ballena

SIGHTS

MAP: DOMINICAL AND VICINITY

BEACHES

SURFING

CAVE CAMPING

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

SHOPPING

FOOD

MAP: UVITA

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

ACCOMMODATIONS

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

GETTING THERE

PARQUE NACIONAL MARINO BALLENA

Highlights

Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.

S Search for macaws and other tropical birds at the accessible Parque Nacional Carara (click here).

S Go boating through the tranquil mangroves at Isla Damas (click here).

S Sail the Manuel Antonio coastline for an unforgettable view of lush hills and sandy beaches (click here).

S Take in ocean views from hillside restaurants while enjoying food or drinks in Manuel Antonio (click here).

S Lounge on the beach, hang out with monkeys, and spot sloths and other wildlife at Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio (click here).

S Swim in pools at the idyllic falls of the Cataratas Nauyaca (click here).

S Eat gourmet food in Ojochal, the culinary capital of Costa Rica (click here).

If you dream of road-tripping in Costa Rica, hop in a rental car and head to the central Pacific coast. It has over 200 km (124 mi) of coastline to follow, and getting from one destination to the next is a breeze. Half of the experience is the journey: Drive alongside steep, verdant hills, pass through rows of swaying tropical palms, spot the sparkle of the glassy ocean, and marvel at a rainbow-colored sky come sunset. You’ll have your pick of landing places along the way, such as party towns like Jacó, hillside communities and adventure centers like Manuel Antonio, and quiet beachside villages that include Dominical, Uvita, and Ojochal. Best of all, you can drive from one end of the region to the other in less than four hours, saving plenty of time for taking in some of the country’s most raved-about experiences.

The blanket of lush rainforest that envelops much of the central Pacific coast, butting up against the beach in places, is bursting with wildlife, both land- and water-based. Take a national park or mangrove tour or go on an offshore excursion to a national marine park for rare up-close wildlife encounters. Waterfalls tumble down rainforest-clad slopes where panoramic ocean and canopy views appear through hillside clearings. Beaches line nearly the entire coast. Some showcase white-sand shores, a few remain unfrequented finds, and others are sought-after for their stupendous surf.

Ideal if you’re looking for both nature and the beach, the central Pacific coast is Costa Rica’s one-stop shop.

ORIENTATION

The central Pacific coast spans nearly the entire southern coastline between the Nicoya Peninsula (to the northwest) and the Osa Peninsula (to the southeast). Passing through most of the region and paralleling the coast much of the way is the Carretera Costanera Sur (Southern Coastal Highway), also known as the Pacífica Fernández Oreamuno or Highway 34. It offers one of the country’s easiest and most scenic drives.

The hamlet of El Roble, 95 km (59 mi) due west of San José, is a major connecting point for cross-region travel. It is marked by the busy intersection of Highway 17 (east-west) and Highway 23 (north-south). To the west, Highway 17 leads straight into the port city of Puntarenas. To the east, it merges with Highway 1 on its way to the Central Valley and Highlands. To the north, Highway 23 ends at Highway 1 and continues to Guanacaste. To the south, it becomes Highway 27, meets Highway 34, and extends the length of the entire central Pacific coast. If you plan to tour the coast directly from San José, you can bypass El Roble by taking Highway 27 west to Highway 34.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

If you plan to station yourself in Manuel Antonio or Jacó, the region’s hubs, you’ll want three full days at minimum, and ideally four or five, to experience the area’s appeal. For in-demand Manuel Antonio, book accommodations 3-6 months in advance if you will be in the country late December-April—and even earlier if your visit coincides with Christmas, New Year’s, or Easter. Transportation and activity arrangements can be made a few weeks prior to your trip, as can lodging arrangements if you plan to travel May-mid-December.

Quieter coastal areas, including Dominical, Uvita, and Ojochal, offer less to see and do, but that’s part of their draw. You only need one or two days in each area to cover the must-see sights. Give yourself as much extra time as you want to enjoy the beach.

Nature and wildlife-spotting activities in this region range from quick 10-minute stops at the Crocodile Bridge in Tárcoles to 10-day diving excursions at Parque Nacional Isla del Coco. Dedicate a half day to most of the region’s highlights, which are all about wildlife-watching and enjoying the water. Search Parque Nacional Carara for tropical birds, play with monkeys in the mangroves at Isla Damas, and spy on sloths at Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. Sail the Manuel Antonio coastline or play in the pool of the Cataratas Nauyaca. Take as little or as much time as you want or need to walk the whale-tail sandbar at Parque Nacional Marino Ballena and take in sweeping ocean views captured from hillside restaurants.

To complement nature exploration in the region, treat yourself to first-class food in gastronomically inclined Ojochal. Give yourself an hour or two at the restaurant of your choice, plus additional travel time to Ojochal from your base.

Regardless of where you head to along the coast, familiarize yourself with the region’s tide schedule. Some tours and attractions can only be experienced at high or low tide. If tide-dependent activities interest you, create a flexible itinerary that allows for activities with start times beyond your control.

Weather and Transportation

The central Pacific coast is such a striking emerald green and is home to rainforest in part because it receives a consistent dose of rain and sun. Showers ranging from drizzles to downpours are not uncommon year-round, but most of the region’s annual precipitation falls June-November. September-November is the wettest time to visit.

Most of the central Pacific coast’s beaches average 27°C (80°F), rivaling some of the country’s hottest areas. Temperatures drop as elevation rises inland. Prior to travel, prepare yourself for the two climates—pack plenty of sunscreen and a waterproof rain jacket or poncho.

Getting around the area is easy. There’s not much mountainous terrain unless you break away from the highway to explore inland areas. Turnoffs to the region’s numerous beach towns, villages, and communities are well marked. Drives to the most popular areas do not require a 4WD vehicle. It’s a good idea to have one if you plan to travel into the mountains or toward remote beaches, where you’ll encounter some dirt roads.

Itinerary Ideas

MANUEL ANTONIO AND THE COSTA BALLENA IN THREE DAYS

Must-have experiences dot the Central Pacific region. This three-day itinerary connects the dots, stringing together nights spent in Manuel Antonio, Dominical, and Uvita or Ojochal and helping you make the most of your time.

Day 1

1 Start in Manuel Antonio at the famous Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. (A reservation is required to enter the park; book the 7am time slot.) Prearrange a park tour with a guide to maximize your chances of seeing sloths and other wildlife. Spend several hours traversing the park’s nature trails and sunbathing and swimming at its postcard-worthy beaches. If your chosen accommodation doesn’t provide breakfast, grab a plateful of gallo pinto (a traditional rice and bean blend) before the tour at Restaurante Donde Alex.

2 Depart from the park before noon and travel up and over the Manuel Antonio hillside to Marina Pez Vela in Quepos. Stop along the way to eat a lovely light lunch and take in a breathtaking ocean view at Emilio’s Café.

3 Catch the 2pm sailing tour operated by Planet Dolphin. Have fun snorkeling, dolphin-watching, and lounging on the catamaran during the tour, all the while gazing at the region’s lush, varied terrain from the water.

4 The sailing tour’s complimentary late-afternoon meal, served on the boat, may satisfy your hunger for the rest of the day. But if it doesn’t, treat yourself to a dinner of fine dining at La Luna.

5 In the evening, check out a live music performance at El Patio de Café Milagro or savor a well-built cocktail at Ape.

Day 2

1 If the tide schedule permits, take a morning boat tour of the mangroves at Isla Damas for an additional opportunity to see the region’s wildlife, especially monkeys.

2 After the boat tour, travel down the coast to Dominical. If a meal wasn’t included with the morning tour, pop into Café Mono Congo and order a panini or other light fare for lunch.

3 Take the afternoon to relax and swim at the base of the two-tier Cataratas Nauyaca. Access the waterfall beyond the Nauyaca Waterfalls Nature Park if you want to reach the waterfall by hiking. Enter through the Cataratas Nauyaca entrance if you’d rather ride a horse to the cascade.

4 Enjoy a low-key evening in Dominical. Choose one of the traditional Costa Rican casados for dinner at Café Ensueño, then hop over to the Fuego Brew Company for a pint of the microbrewery’s own beer.

Day 3

1 Carry on down the coast to Uvita and enter Parque Nacional Marino Ballena. If it’s whale season, take the 8:30am whale-watching boat tour to try your luck at seeing humpback or orca whales in the park’s protected waters. Otherwise, swim or sunbathe at Playa Uvita, the park’s main beach. If your visit coincides with low tide, stroll along the whale-tail sandbar for a unique opportunity to walk out into the ocean.

2 Leave the park midday. For lunch, grab satisfying pub grub at Bar & Restaurant Los Laureles in Uvita.

3 In the afternoon, spend an hour or two lounging on Playa Ventanas, just down the coast from Uvita in Ojochal. Retreat to your lodging, either in Uvita or Ojochal, to wash up and ready yourself for a classy but casual night out.

4 Terrific gourmet cuisine thrives in Ojochal; selecting only one establishment to eat and drink at can be difficult. If you’d rather sample the area’s top three, start with appetizers in the late afternoon at Citrus, enjoy a pre-dinner drink at the Kua Kua Restaurant at sunset, and get dinner and dessert at Exotica.

Puntarenas and Vicinity

Much of the region is contained within Puntarenas, Costa Rica’s largest province. The province’s capital city, also named Puntarenas, is a rough-hewn port city on a thin stretch of land just barely above sea level that extends 8 km (5 mi) into the Pacific Ocean from the western edge of the mainland.

Most foreign visitors only set foot in Puntarenas on their way to more tourist-friendly destinations up, down, and off the coast. Some catch ferries that commute between Puntarenas and the Nicoya Peninsula. Others arrive via cruise ship, typically during cruise season October-March, and explore attractions outside of the city on organized day tours. A fearless few travelers depart from the city on liveaboard boats that sail the open ocean toward Parque Nacional Isla del Coco, a magnificent protected area.

SIGHTS

Paseo de los Turistas

If you only do one thing while in Puntarenas, take a stroll along the Paseo de los Turistas (Tourist Walkway). The 2-km (1.2-mi) paved pedestrian path runs parallel to the beach on the south side of town, offering the most pleasant way to discover the city. The palm-lined promenade passes by open-air restaurants where you can dine on fresh seafood and pop-up souvenir stands that sell handcrafted goods by local artisans. Watch a cruise ship enter or exit the dock, then follow the path to visit the peninsula’s rocky tip and lighthouse.

FOOD AND ACCOMMODATIONS

The city’s local delicacies define Puntarenas. Porteños (Puntarenas residents) love vigorónes and churchills. A vigorón is a tangy mix of cabbage, yuca, chicharrones (fried pork rinds), and pico de gallo cradled in a leaf, sold in a plastic bag, and eaten with a fork. A churchill is a traditional Costa Rican copo (shaved ice dessert topped with syrup and condensed milk) with fruit salad and sometimes a scoop of ice cream added in. Buy them from one of umpteen food trucks and food carts parked along the beach and the Paseo de los Turistas. Fish and seafood dishes are the most sought-after entrées. Options sold by many restaurants in town include fillets of corvina (a fish similar to sea bass), sopa de mariscos (seafood soup), and arroz con camarones (rice with shrimp).

Isla Coco’s Bar & Grill

Avenida 3; tel. 506/8876-9354; noon-10pm Wed.-Mon.; $15-24

At the tip of the peninsula, between the lighthouse and the Naviera Tambor ferry dock, is Isla Coco’s Bar & Grill. The establishment serves upscale dishes that include seafood platters, fish fillets, and grilled meats in a casual setting. It also has a kid’s menu and a Tiki sushi bar (7pm-10:30pm Thurs. and Sun.). If you go during the day, get a table out front where you can enjoy a view of the gulf. Thursday-Saturday evenings have live music.

Hotel La Punta

Calle 35, 50 m (164 ft) south of Avenida 3; tel. 506/2661-0696; www.hotellapunta.net; $80 s/d

Most visitors don’t spend a night in the city, but if your itinerary requires it, stay at the small Hotel La Punta. It’s across the street from the ferry dock—ideal for catching an early-morning ferry out of town—and has clean air-conditioned rooms, a pool, secure parking, and friendly staff.

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

Hospital Monseñor Víctor Manuel Sanabria Martínez (Road 202, 350 m/0.2 mi south of Hwy. 17; tel. 506/2630-8000; 24 hours daily) is the city’s hospital. Pharmacies are found north of Avenida Central, between Calle 4 and Calle 1. Most open at 8am and close at 5pm-10pm daily.

Puntarenas also has a post office (Avenida 3, between Calle 1 and Calle Central; tel. 506/2661-2156; 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-2pm Sat.), a police station (Avenida 4, just east of Calle 9; tel. 506/2661-0640; 24 hours daily), and several supermarkets.

There are many banks in the city, but the most convenient is Banco Popular (8:45am-4:30pm Mon.-Fri., 8:15am-11:30am Sat.), across from the bus station on Calle 2. It has an ATM (10:45am-6:30pm Mon.-Fri., 9:45am-1pm Sat.).

There are three gas stations on the east side of Puntarenas on Highway 17 (Avenida Central).

GETTING THERE

Puntarenas is a 100-km (62-mi), two-hour drive west from downtown San José via Highway 1 and Highway 17. From downtown Liberia, it’s a 130-km (81-mi), two-hour drive southeast on Highway 1, and west on Highway 23 and Highway 17.

Highway 17 joins Highway 1 to provide direct access to Puntarenas. The road becomes Avenida Central in the city’s core.

The regional bus station is on Avenida 4 on the south side of the city, just east of the cruise dock. You can get to Puntarenas by public bus from San José, Liberia, Jacó, and Quepos.

PARQUE NACIONAL ISLA DEL COCO

Isla del Coco National Park; tel. 506/8725-5253; www.isladelcoco.go.cr; divers $70 per day, nondivers $50 per day

Parque Nacional Isla del Coco, more commonly known as Cocos Island National Park or simply Cocos Island, is Costa Rica’s most illustrious destination. The park boundaries encase the 5,930-acre volcanic island, a Natural World Heritage Site and a breathtaking masterpiece with jagged mountains, virgin forests, soft cascades, trickling streams, and flowering plants. Uninhabited by humans except for a rotating crew of roughly 30 rangers who oversee park access and research, the tropical island is void of significant development and remains perfectly serene. If you’re on a hunt to find Costa Rica’s rarest jewel, Isla del Coco is the magnificent treasure you’re looking for.

Visits to the park are not for the faint of heart—or stomach. The remote territory lies 550 km (340 mi) off the coast of Puntarenas; reaching it requires a 32- to 36-hour boat journey on the Pacific Ocean. The island’s extraordinary experiences include exploration of untouched land and scarcely chartered waters. Overnight stays on the island are not permitted, and there are no restaurants. Fully equipped liveaboard vessels provide room and board, with most expeditions lasting 10 days.

Visiting Isla del Coco is one of the most expensive experiences you can have in Costa Rica. Beyond the excursion’s base cost, keep additional funds handy for dive equipment rentals, dive insurance, the park entrance fee, optional course instruction aboard the boat, fuel surcharges, and possible emergency evacuation fees. Most supplementary charges need to be paid in cash.

Excursions to Isla del Coco run year-round. High season, November-April, has slightly calmer ocean conditions and warmer water, but low season tends to feature more shark sightings and an increased chance of seeing whales.

Scuba Diving

The park is a world-renowned scuba site. The best way to experience it is by diving into its iridescent green, turquoise, and royal-blue waters. The ocean is replete with fish, rays, whales, and a variety of sharks, including the easily identifiable scalloped hammerhead sharks that feed, breed, and frequent underwater cleaning stations around Isla del Coco.

On most expeditions, you’ll dive three times daily for each day you’re at the island. At least 13 frequented dive sites encircle Isla del Coco; particularly captivating are Alcyone, home to the peak of an underwater mountain, and Big Dos Amigos, where hammerheads glide between unique seamounts that form an arch and a pillar. Out in the open ocean, dive conditions vary considerably. Temperatures range 22-29°C (72-84°F), cooler at the thermocline; a 3- to 5-mm wetsuit is recommended. Visibility ranges 18-30 m (59-98 ft), and dive depths can reach 40 m (131 ft).

Aggressor

dock on the north side of Puntarenas at Calle 7; tel. 506/2289-2261; www.aggressor.com; $6,749-7,099 pp

Park excursions depart from Puntarenas. With its first run to the island in 1988, the most experienced outfitter is Aggressor, offering primarily 10-day expeditions on three yachts, the Okeanos Aggressor I (10 rooms, 22 passengers), Okeanos Aggressor II (11 rooms, 22 passengers), and Cocos Island Aggressor (11 rooms, 22 passengers).

Undersea Hunter

dock on the north side of Puntarenas at Calle 44; tel. 506/2228-6613; www.underseahunter.com; $6,990-7,490 pp

The Undersea Hunter runs 10-day expeditions via two yachts, the Argo (9 rooms, 18 passengers) and the Sea Hunter (10 rooms, 20 passengers). Unique to the Undersea Hunter is the submarine-like DeepSee submersible ($1,500-2,350 pp; 3-person capacity including the pilot). In the glass-enclosed pod of this motorized vessel, you can venture up to 300 m (984 ft) below the surface. Provided as an add-on experience to Undersea Hunter’s regular park excursions, the sub dive offers extreme (and dry) underwater exploration as well as up-close and intense interaction with marinelife.

Hiking

Exploration of the park’s land is highly regulated. If you want to step onto the island, you’ll need to check in at one of two ranger stations located at Bahía Chatham and Bahía Wafer. Hiking opportunities are limited.

The only mammals on the island are deer, goats, pigs, cats, and rats. You may come across lizards, birds, and insects too, but not much else, unless you’re lucky enough to stumble on what remains of pirate loot once stashed around the island. Hike for the thrill of exploring an area of Costa Rica that only 3,000 people get to visit each year, not for the wildlife.

Sendero Chatham-Wafer

Chatham-Wafer Trail; 2.5 km (1.5 mi) one-way; 1 hour; moderate

The Sendero Chatham-Wafer connects Bahía Chatham and Bahía Wafer via rolling forested terrain.

a cruise ship docked at Puntarenas

Puntarenas Ferry Crossings

Ferries cross the Golfo de Nicoya several times daily between the city of Puntarenas and the small port towns of Playa Naranjo and Paquera on the Nicoya Peninsula. These passenger and vehicle services allow travelers to move efficiently between the central Pacific coast and the Nicoya Peninsula, but they also provide a relaxing way to experience the coast. You’ll see pretty rainforest-filled islands along the way as you glide through the gulf’s crystalline waters. There’s even a chance you’ll spot a whale or two.

WHICH FERRY DO I TAKE?

If you’re going to Sámara, Carrillo, or Nosara (the northern section of the Nicoya Peninsula), board the ferry to Playa Naranjo. Service is provided by Coonatramar (tel. 506/2661-1069; www.coonatramar.com). Puntarenas departures are at 6am, 10am, 2:30pm, and 6:45pm daily. Departures from Playa Naranjo are at 8am, 12:30pm, 4:30pm, and 8:30pm daily.

If you’re bound for Montezuma, Tambor, Malpaís, or Santa Teresa (the southern section of the Nicoya Peninsula), take the ferry to Paquera. Service is provided by Naviera Tambor (tel. 506/2661-2084; www.navieratambor.com [URL inactive]). Departures from either Puntarenas or Paquera are at 6:30am, 9am, noon, 3pm, 6pm, and 8pm daily.

Both Coonatramar and Naviera Tambor have special holiday schedules. Verify available departure times if you plan to travel over Christmas, New Year’s, Easter, or other national holidays.

WHERE DO I BUY TICKETS?

Ferry tickets can be purchased at boleterías (ticket offices) at ferry ports. The fare is roughly $1.75 adults, $1 ages 3-12 between Puntarenas and Playa Naranjo. Between Puntarenas and Paquera, fares are about $1.50 adults, $1 children. Payment must be made in colones or small denominations of American dollars ($1 or $5 bills). Tickets for the service between Puntarenas and Playa Naranjo can be reserved in advance through Coonatramar’s website. Tickets for the service between Puntarenas and Paquera can be reserved and paid for in advance online at www.quickpaycr.com.

WHEN SHOULD I GET THERE?

Give yourself ample time to get to the ferry port. Arrive at least 30 minutes in advance of your departure time; come even earlier if you’re traveling December-April or if you plan to drive a vehicle on board.

CAN I BRING MY RENTAL CAR?

Rental vehicles can be driven onto the ferry for $20 between Puntarenas and Playa Naranjo, $22 between Puntarenas and Paquera. You’ll drive your own car aboard, but the vehicle must be clear of other occupants. You cannot access the car’s contents during the trip, so be sure to grab items you may want before leaving the vehicle. Remember to lock the doors.

Sendero Río Genio

Río Genio Trail; 2 km (1.2 mi) one-way; 1 hour; moderate

From Bahía Wafer, a second trail, Sendero Río Genio, leads to the Catarata Genio, where you can swim in a small pool at the base of the cascade.

Getting There

The park is accessible only by boat. Guided excursions run year-round out of Puntarenas. Each yacht makes 2-4 trips to the island per month.

Jacó and Vicinity

One of the coastal areas closest to San José is the northern stretch of the central Pacific coast. The vicinity’s anchor, the entertaining and provocative beach town of Jacó, receives a mix of Ticos looking to escape the capital city for a few hours to a few nights and visitors drawn to the town’s discernable North American imprint. Standing apart from the boisterous, often crowded town is Playa Hermosa, a small unobtrusive community south of Jacó. North of Jacó is one of Costa Rica’s most accessible national parks, the birding hot spot Parque Nacional Carara.

JACÓ AND PLAYA HERMOSA

Despite being rough around the edges, gritty Jacó is one of Costa Rica’s liveliest beach towns. Myriad restaurants, bars, shops, tourism offices, and accommodations sandwiched next to one another line Avenida Pastor Díaz, the 2-km (1.2-mi) main drag that runs parallel to the beach. Notably absent from the strip is Costa Rican culture; American and Canadian influences dominate the town’s eclectic food scene, unrestrained nightlife, and international festivals and events. At this happening destination, also known for spectacular sunsets and decent surf, you’ll find spirited and artistic townspeople as well as social travelers looking to party.

Jacó sits just off Highway 34. The road known as the Boulevard provides access to Jacó from the north, and Avenida Amapole has access from the south. Both roads turn into Avenida Pastor Díaz in the downtown core.

From the south end of Jacó, Playa Hermosa is a 5-km (3.1-mi) trip down Highway 34. Not to be confused with the Playa Hermosa in Guanacaste (35 km/22 mi west of Liberia), this beach community harbors a small but mighty surf society. Avid surfers gather at the few accommodations in Playa Hermosa, where the very best are crowned surf champions.

Safety Concerns

Crime, mainly theft, is a problem in Jacó. Keep personal items close by or in your hotel’s safe. Lock your vehicle’s doors and never leave belongings in your car.

Remain extra vigilant in Jacó after dark. This is when theft and robberies increase, and the sale and consumption of drugs is obvious. At bars and clubs, keep a watchful eye on your beverages at all times. Stick to bars on or just off the main drag. If you wish to barhop, use a reliable form of transportation to get around town. Travel in groups if possible.

Prostitution, which is legal in Costa Rica, is big business in Jacó. It’s common for people to receive solicitations at nightlife venues. It’s okay to politely decline any offers that come your way and continue enjoying your night out on the town.

Sights

Jacó Lookouts

Life in Jacó centers around the beach, which can be seen from the many establishments that line the sand. The most stunning vistas showcase the coastline together with the area’s lush green surroundings. In stark contrast to Jacó’s flat and noisy commercial center, miradores (lookouts) on the outskirts of town capture the beach community from afar and portray its softer side, revealing the peacefulness of the mountainous landscape that surrounds the animated town.

Hidden in the hills at the south end of Jacó are the remnants of a restaurant and hotel abandoned partway through construction. The spot, known as Miro’s Mountain, provides the most spectacular bird’s-eye view of the area. From what would have been the structure’s balcony, you can see the Pacific Ocean, the headland that separates Jacó from Playa Herradura, the small Isla Herradura off the coast, and, of course, the town’s bountiful beachfront development. Take a moment to admire the ruins themselves; graffiti artists have tagged the place, and their artwork merits appreciation. Free access to the lookout point is via a rough steep road that is best hiked or biked; I don’t recommend making the drive in a 4WD vehicle as locals do. Find the road across the street from the gas station on Highway 34. A small parking lot marks the entrance.

Approximately 1 km (0.6 mi) southwest of the road that leads to Miro’s Mountain, you can see a similar picturesque scene along Highway 34 behind the brightly colored JACÓ sign. The lookout point is barely above sea level, but it still has a striking view of the ocean and the jagged skyline with Jacó in the forefront.

For a jaw-dropping view of the treetops that blanket Jacó’s inlands, reserve a ride on the aerial tram (8am, 10am, noon, and 2pm daily; 1 hour; $59 adults, $39 ages 3-12) operated by Rainforest Adventures (3.5 km/2.2 mi northeast of Hwy. 34 between the two turnoffs to Jacó; tel. 506/2224-5961; www.rainforestadventure.com; 8am-4pm daily). This tour operator runs its own mini theme park, located north of the other two lookouts and tucked away in the hills that tower over Jacó from the east. The tram provides the best view of the area’s forest, which sometimes feels close enough to touch through the open-air gondola. Along with the tram, the park also has a zip line, a hanging bridge, a waterfall, and gardens.

Beaches

Playa Jacó

Great for sunbathing and surfing but less desirable for swimming, Playa Jacó spans the entire length of Jacó, from a small estuary at the north end of the beach to the town’s southern end. A wide sweep of brown sand, often disturbed by the tracks of ATVs and other vehicles, separates the water from the row of businesses that fronts the beach. Finding space to park yourself is not difficult, even when the place gets busy. As tempting as the water is on steaming hot days, enter at your own risk. Rip currents and a strong undertow are known hazards. Lifeguards keep watch (9am-4pm daily).

In 2019, Playa Jacó became Costa Rica’s first fully accessible beach. At the southern end of the beach, near Calle Madrigal, a flat 63-m (207-ft) wheelchair-accessible boardwalk runs above the sand and perpendicular to the coast, nearly to the water. Built with recycled plastic, the boardwalk is a model of inclusive tourism and environmental sustainability.

Playa Hermosa

Playa Hermosa is the namesake beach of the Playa Hermosa community. It runs from the small headland that separates the beach from Playa Jacó to the north to a small estuary that drains into the ocean at the south end of the beach. Despite its name, which translates to “Beautiful Beach,” this debris-washed stretch of the coast is full of dark coarse volcanic sand that is neither appealing to the eye nor comfortable to lounge on. More importantly, it’s home to some of the country’s best swells and tubes. Amped-up surfers dig the area, but if you’re not a betty or a brah, it’s best to avoid this beach. Dangerous ocean conditions have led to drownings; leisurely swimming is a bad idea.

Surfing

Some of Costa Rica’s biggest waves barrel offshore along 10-km (6.2-mi) Playa Hermosa, especially at the breaks that locals call Terraza, The Tree, and Tulin. The consistent swell is fantastic for experienced surfers, but the curls, rock hazards, and long paddles in some places are generally too intense for newbies. Acknowledged by Save The Waves (www.savethewaves.org) as a world surfing reserve—the first in Central America—Playa Hermosa is a great place to surf if you are passionate about surf ecosystem sustainability. The Playa Hermosa community is active in preserving the area’s wave breaks, protecting the local marinelife and wildlife, and reducing coastal development. By visiting or staying in the area, you can help affirm and financially support their efforts.

Jacó’s Public Art

Jacó is home to a burgeoning art scene. Giant colorful murals splash the exteriors and interiors of establishments around town, exhibiting its creative side.

Some of my favorite outdoor compositions, which reflect a variety of art styles and scenes, include the following:

• On the wall behind the Más x Menos supermarket (Avenida Pastor Díaz at Calle Central), by Jade Rivera: Jacó’s first mega mural, a wide composition that depicts members of Costa Rica’s Boruca Indigenous group wearing traditional masks.

• On the wall beside the Más x Menos supermarket (Avenida Pastor Díaz at Calle Central), by Farid Rueda: A geometric composition that features a jaguar, an owl, and macaws intended to represent the sun, the moon, and the earth, respectively.

• On the left side of the building that houses Pachi’s Pan (Avenida Pastor Díaz, between Calle Cocal and Calle Central), by Fio Silva: A whimsical eye-catching mural of a sea turtle, a roseate spoonbill, and a great egret.

• At the post office (east side of the fútbol field, 25 m/82 ft southwest of Avenida Pastor Díaz), by John Eduardo Fernandez Triana: A motley of Costa Rican flora and fauna, including a mosaic butterfly (by Angela Lozano) and a traditional oxcart design backed by a moonlit seascape.

• At the MAG Jacó office (east side of the fútbol field, 50 m/164 ft southwest of Avenida Pastor Díaz), by Pulun Pérez Barquero: A three-dimensional genre painting that invites viewers into a traditional home on a farm in rural Costa Rica.

Additional art-wrapped buildings and more than 10 sets of painted wings can be seen around Jacó, so keep an eye out for them wherever you roam around town. If you don’t intend to visit Jacó but plan to stay in the central Pacific region, you can see a sample of the beautiful artwork at the JACÓ sign on Highway 34.

North of Playa Hermosa, less challenging waves roll in over a sandy bed at Playa Jacó, where most of the area’s surf schools have set up shop. Nearly every surf school and surf shop around town has equipment rentals. Expect to pay $15-25 per day to rent a surfboard.

Tico Surf Lessons

on Playa Jacó at Calle Bohío, Jacó; tel. 506/8927-9969; www.ticosurflessons.com; 7am-5pm daily

Tico Surf Lessons, led by Costa Rican national surf champion Erly Farrier, is an all-around great surfing outfit. The lessons feel organized, the pricing is fair, and perks, like complimentary transportation from Jacó hotels, free use of a surfboard for 24 hours after the lesson, and free use of a beach chair and umbrella on Playa Jacó on the day of the lesson, speak to the outfit’s interest in providing a superlative surf experience. Choose from one of two types of surf lessons (morning and afternoon daily; 2 hours): group ($60 pp) or private (1 student per instructor; $80 pp). I particularly like that Erly and his team are extra patient with children and older adults and that the group lessons have a ratio of one instructor to every two students. The inclusive, focused lessons translate to more comfortable and enjoyable surfing.

Tortuga Surf Camp

on Playa Jacó at Calle Hidalgo, Jacó; www.tortugasurfcamp.com; 7am-6pm daily

If you want a comprehensive surf experience that includes multiple lessons, overnight accommodations, workshops, and video and photo reviews, the professional staff at Tortuga Surf Camp excel at creating customizable surf camps. Prices vary according to camp length and inclusions. Four-day, three-night packages, the minimum during the high season, begin at $350 pp.

ATV Tours

Adventure Tours Costa Rica

Calle Samudio, 1.2 km (0.7 mi) north of Highway 34, Jacó; tel. 506/2643-5720; www.adventuretourscostarica.com; 8am-5pm daily

Lots of companies offer ATV tours around Jacó. My favorite is Adventure Tours Costa Rica. The group runs four different ATV tours (8am-6pm daily; 2-7 hours; $75-189 pp; driver min. age 16, rider min. age 5), each one tailor-made to suit diverse riding levels, interests, timelines, and budgets. Some excursions travel through the rainforest and visit lookout points with beautiful views. Others roll through small towns and visit a waterfall.

Festivals and Events

Surf Tournaments

Playa Hermosa lends its infamous surf break to surf tournaments year-round. Some are informal weekly battles. Others are as significant as the National Surfing Championship, typically held in July. The Federación de Surf de Costa Rica (www.fedesurfcr.com) oversees most competitions and posts event schedules on its website and Facebook page; look for listings for the Circuito Nacional. If you’re in the area around 4pm Friday-Saturday, head to the beachfront restaurant and bar at the Backyard Hotel (between Hwy. 34 and the beach in Playa Hermosa; tel. 506/2643-7011; www.backyardhotel.com) to watch local surfers go head-to-head as part of a weekly competition put on by the hotel.

Shopping

Jacó Walk

Avenida Pastor Díaz at Calle Alice, Jacó; www.jacowalk.com; hours vary by store

Countless shops blend in with the colorful restaurants and bars on the main street in Jacó. The open-air plaza Jacó Walk contains a collection of stores that are good for browsing.

Tico Pod

Avenida Pastor Díaz, between Calle Dankers and Calle Lapa Verde, Jacó; tel. 506/2643-2068; 9am-8pm Mon.-Sat., 9am-7pm Sun.

On the main drag, Tico Pod is a small souvenir shop that resembles an art gallery. It sells the works of local artists, some of whom painted the giant murals you’ll see around town. It features paintings, ceramics, glass creations, and leather products.

Fruity Monkey Poop

Avenida Pastor Díaz, between Calle Dankers and Calle Lapa Verde, Jacó; 9am-7pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-8pm Sat.-Sun.

Fruity Monkey Poop is a fun shop to browse around. You can buy bags of Costa Rican coffee (both whole beans and ground) in a variety of roasts and flavors—some is even organic. The shop also sells an assortment of unique souvenirs you won’t find at most other stores in Jacó, like handmade soaps and jewelry, local spices, books written by locals, and Indigenous masks. Now in the same block as its sister store, Tico Pod, hopping between Jacó’s best shops is a breeze.

Feria Jacó

Jacó Farmers Market, off Avenida Pastor Díaz, south side of the fútbol field, Jacó; 2pm-8pm Thurs., 7am-noon Fri.

This decades-old farmers market sells fruit, vegetables, and handmade products. It’s a great place to try rambutan, a fruit that most Ticos call mamón chino. The fruit is hairy on the outside and has a sweet and slimy center that looks and tastes like a peeled grape. Don’t eat the pit!

Food

Pachi’s Pan

Avenida Pastor Díaz, between Calle Cocal and Calle Central, Jacó; tel. 506/2643-1153; 6am-8pm daily; $2-8.50

The best place to grab a snack in Jacó is Pachi’s Pan, an average-looking bakery with a marvelous lineup of delectable treats. There are sticky cinnamon rolls, dipped doughnuts, glazed croissants, sweet churros, slices of decadent cakes, and more. Craving something savory? Try an empanada or one of the ready-made sandwiches. Best of all, the bakery sells chilled arroz con leche (rice pudding) in to-go containers, perfect for consuming at the beach or your lodging, or while strolling around town.

Soda Marea Baja

Hwy. 34, 1 km (0.6 mi) south of the Boulevard, Jacó; tel. 506/2643-3530; 24 hours daily; $4-7

Whenever hunger strikes, you can find flavorful eats at Soda Marea Baja. Perfect if your budget is tight or if you need something to eat on your way into or out of town, this small diner has one of the region’s best buffet bars. It’s always full of Costa Rican foods; try generous helpings of typical preparations like arroz con pollo (rice with chicken), gallo pinto (a traditional rice and bean blend), patacones (smashed and fried green plantains), and more. You’ll pay significantly less here than for the same food in downtown Jacó.

S Green Room

Calle Cocal, 25 m (82 ft) southwest of Avenida Pastor Díaz, Jacó; tel. 506/2643-4425; www.greenroomjaco.com; 8am-midnight daily; $14.50-24.50

My favorite restaurant in town is the Green Room. This hippie, pet-friendly café caters to all kinds of hungry travelers; it serves meat and fish but also vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free, and keto dishes. Options span ribs glazed with a passion fruit barbecue sauce, pineapple coconut curry, and the restaurant’s signature Green Room Salad, loaded with greens, fruits, and vegetables, which can be topped with shrimp, chicken, or chickpea and carrot croquettes. The partly open-air space has a few tables on a front patio decorated with plants; several more tables are scattered around a cozy art-filled interior that mimics a big tent with its billowy fabric-covered roof. At night, the laid-back place is a dimly lit bar with live music.

S Graffiti Resto Café & Wine Bar

Jacó Walk, Avenida Pastor Díaz at Calle Alice, Jacó; tel. 506/2643-1708; www.graffitirestro.com; 5pm-10pm Tues.-Sun.; $25-35

What I love most about Graffiti Resto Café & Wine Bar is the dichotomy created by the restaurant’s sophisticated menu and down-to-earth decor. Well-crafted dishes like the beloved coffee- and cacao-crusted beef tenderloin are served in a laid-back funky space decorated with graffiti art and skateboards. You can dine on the exquisite Cajun yellowfin tuna steak while listening to electronic dance music and watching artists paint as a form of dinner entertainment. Operating in its own artistic world, this café is one of a kind.

Bars and Nightlife

Jacó’s nightlife is the town’s most obvious appeal. The main drag is a bustling boulevard full of bars and discos (clubs) that stay open late. Some cater to millennial foreigners in search of casual spaces to socialize. Others offer velvet-rope experiences. Most venues don’t charge a cover to enter, except on nights with special events, acts, or DJs.

No matter what kind of party vibe you’re looking for, you’ll find it in Jacó. The town hosts wild pool parties and themed events, has both swanky clubs and dive bars, is speckled with casinos, and even has a funky Polynesian-style bar that doubles as an art gallery. It also has a collection of casual but social bars that are great for kicking back with friends.

Barhopping around Jacó is easy, although walking anywhere in town after dark (especially along the beach) may put you at risk for robbery or theft. Stick to transportation provided by official red taxis and always travel in a group. Regardless of where you go, always keep a watchful eye on your drink.

Public House

Avenida Pastor Díaz at Calle Lapa Verde, Jacó; tel. 506/6071-1118; www.jacogrill.com [URL inactive]; noon-11pm Mon., 7am-11pm Tues.-Thurs., 7am-midnight Fri.-Sun.

The lively two-story Public House has craft beer on tap, a daily happy hour (5pm-7pm), and a central location on Jacó’s main drag.

Clarita’s Sports Bar & Grill

on Playa Jacó, near Calle Jardín, Jacó; tel. 506/2643-3327; 7am-10pm Sun.-Thurs., 7am-11pm Fri.-Sat.

The beachfront Clarita’s Sports Bar & Grill offers live music and karaoke nights that reward singers with free tequila shots. Sports games play on multiple big screens in the background.

Republik Lounge

Calle Cocal, 75 m (246 ft) southwest of Avenida Pastor Díaz, Jacó; tel. 506/8683-4324; www.republikcostarica.com; 9pm-2:30am Thurs.-Sat.

If you’d rather get dressed up and go out dancing, hit up the Republik Lounge. This club is built off the side of a hotel and has indoor and outdoor gathering areas. Inside, there’s loud music and strobe lights. Outside, a poolside bar emits a pool party vibe.

Rainforest Adventure Booze Cruise

Calle Samudio, 1.2 km (0.7 mi) north of Highway 34, Jacó; tel. 506/2643-5720; www.adventuretourscostarica.com; 8am-5pm daily

If you wish to start the party early—as in noon early—you can sign up for the Rainforest Adventure Booze Cruise (noon daily; 4-5 hours; $115 pp; min. age 18) through Adventure Tours Costa Rica. The trip traipses through the rainforest in a 4WD safari vehicle to remote villages, where you can down a few cold ones at local bars. A designated driver, a case of beer, and a shot of coconut-flavored moonshine (plus water and a meal) are included. Only in Jacó will you find an experience that combines cultural immersion with inebriation.

Accommodations

Room 2 Board Hostel

on Playa Jacó, 350 m (0.2 mi) southwest of the post office, Jacó; tel. 506/2643-4949; www.room2board.com; dorm $20-33, private $99 s/d; min. age 14

The large, futuristic-looking beachfront Room 2 Board Hostel is refreshingly modern. Its multiple coed dorms feature air-conditioning (9pm-7am) and dark wood furniture, and the shared baths have sloped sinks with high-end faucets. The hostel’s large pool, waterslide, and outdoor movie screen contribute to the property’s lively energy. Yoga classes ($10) and surf lessons ($50-70) are available on-site.

S Bird of Paradise Hotel

Avenida Pastor Díaz, between Calle Bribri and Calle Lido, Jacó; tel. 506/4703-0579; www.birdofparadisehotel.com; $139

For its rates, the two-story Bird of Paradise Hotel is a steal. It ticks all the boxes—air-conditioning, a pool, secure parking, in-room Wi-Fi, and a prime location on the main drag that’s also a mere 200-m (219-yd) walk from the beach—plus it has cheery colorful rooms that can sleep up to five with queen, full, and twin beds. Outside each room is a seating area; first-floor seating areas also have a hammock. The included continental breakfast and use of a beach-cruiser bike provide added value.

Hotel Docelunas

500 m (0.3 mi) east of Hwy. 34, 150 m (164 yd) south of Avenida Amapola, Jacó; tel. 506/2643-2211; www.docelunas.com; $170 s/d

Separated from downtown Jacó by Highway 34 is Hotel Docelunas. The hotel is one of the few in the area that forgo beach access for proximity to nature. Twenty spacious suite-style rooms fill the two-story hotel sited on five acres of rainforest adorned with well-manicured gardens. Couples and honeymooners like the romantic intimate atmosphere. Crowded Jacó, a 10-minute drive down the road, feels light-years away from this modest mountain retreat.

S Backyard Hotel

between Hwy. 34 and the beach at Playa Hermosa, Playa Hermosa; tel. 506/2643-7011; www.backyardhotel.com; room $145 s/d, suite $245 s/d

If you’re an intermediate- or advanced-level surfer, stay at Playa Hermosa’s Backyard Hotel. You’ll be steps away from the area’s best breaks come dawn. Even less experienced surfers and surf admirers love the two-story waterfront hotel with bright and clean rooms (sleep 1-4) and suites (sleep 1-6), each with a view of the pool and the ocean from a terrace or balcony. Breakfast, served at the hotel’s surf-themed restaurant next door, is included. On Friday-Saturday afternoons, when the hotel hosts surf competitions, the restaurant transforms into Playa Hermosa’s happening hot spot.

Information and Services

Jacó is roughly halfway between two hospitals—Hospital Monseñor Víctor Manuel Sanabria Martínez (Road 202, 350 m/0.2 mi south of Hwy. 17, Puntarenas; tel. 506/2630-8000; 24 hours daily) in Puntarenas, a 65-km (40 mi), one-hour drive up the coast from Jacó, and Hospital Max Terán Valls (Hwy. 34, 650 m/0.4 mi northwest of the Quepos airport; tel. 506/2774-9500; 24 hours daily) in Quepos, a 70-km (43-mi), one-hour drive down the coast from Jacó. At the south end of Jacó is the town’s clinic, Ebais Jacó (south side of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2643-1767; 24 hours daily).

Also at the south end of Jacó are a post office (east side of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2643-2175; 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Fri.) and a police station (east side of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2643-1213; 24 hours daily). A second police station (Hwy. 34, 200 m/219 yd north of Soda Marea Baja; tel. 506/2643-3011; 24 hours daily) is on Highway 34 between the two turnoffs to Jacó.

Jacó’s jam-packed main drag has several banks, supermarkets, and pharmacies. Most pharmacies are open 9am-9pm daily. Banco Nacional (tel. 506/2212-2000; 8:30am-3:45pm Mon.-Fri.), near the center of the strip, has two ATMs (5am-11pm daily).

Two gas stations serve Jacó, both on Highway 34, at either end of town. The northern gas station is on the west side of the highway, 350 m (0.2 mi) north of the turnoff to Jacó via the road known as the Boulevard. The southern gas station is also on the west side of the highway, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of the turnoff to Jacó via Avenida Amapola.

Getting There

Car

Jacó is 100 km (62 mi) southwest of downtown San José via Highway 27 and Highway 34, a nearly two-hour drive. From downtown Liberia, Jacó is a 185-km (115-mi) drive southeast on Highway 1, Highway 23, Highway 27, and Highway 34, a drive of just under three hours.

Highway 34 provides two entrances into town. If you arrive from the north, take the entrance to the west, at the road known as the Boulevard (350 m/0.2 mi south of the gas station). If you arrive from the south, take the entrance to the west, at Avenida Amapola (1.5 km/0.9 mi north of the gas station).

Private Transfer Service

The San José-based company Costa Rica Shuttle (tel. 506/4000-1040; www.costaricashuttle.com) can provide private transfer services all over the country, taking you to Jacó from any starting point. Prices average $145 for trips from San José.

Shared Shuttle Service

Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com) has daily shared shuttle services to Jacó from San José, La Fortuna, Monteverde, and Manuel Antonio. One-way trips cost approximately $45 pp from San José.

Water Taxi

To get to Jacó from the Nicoya Peninsula, take one of the water taxis ($55 adults, $40 ages 6-12) that commute daily between Montezuma and Playa Herradura, a coastal community north of Jacó. Pick-ups are also possible in Santa Teresa and Malpaís, and the water taxi service includes complimentary ground transportation from Playa Herradura to Jacó. The Montezuma-based Zuma Tours (tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net) operates the service; it takes 75-90 minutes, depending on ocean conditions. There’s an extra fee to bring a surfboard ($5-20).

Bus

You can reach Jacó by public bus from San José, Puntarenas, and Quepos. The regional bus station is at the north end of Jacó’s main drag, at the small commercial center known as Plaza Jacó.

Getting Around

Jacó’s downtown core, a walkable area, has flat paved roads lined with parking spaces. If you’d prefer not to walk, AXR Jacó (Avenida Pastor Díaz, 25 m/82 ft southeast of Calle Central, Jacó; tel. 506/2643-3130; www.axrjaco.com; 8am-5:30pm daily) has every kind of transportation rental you can imagine, including tandem bikes ($20 per day), mountain bikes ($30 per day), scooters ($50 per day), ATVs ($130 for 4 hours), and buggies ($320 for 4 hours).

S PARQUE NACIONAL CARARA

GOOGLE MAP

Carara National Park; Hwy. 34, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) south of the Crocodile Bridge; tel. 506/2637-1083; www.sinac.go.cr; 7am-4pm daily Dec.-Apr., 8am-4pm daily May-Nov., last entry 3pm; $10 adults, $5 ages 6-12

Parque Nacional Carara is one of the best bird-watching locales in the country. Located between dry forest and humid climates, the protected land not only provides refuge to more than 400 bird species (roughly half of all of Costa Rica’s bird species), it also offers an opportunity to see birds that aren’t usually spotted in the same place.

The 13,000-acre park is also one of the most accessible national parks in the country, making it a top destination for visitors of all ages and mobility levels. It’s easy to get to, one of its trails is accessible by wheelchair, and numerous informational placards make even unguided visits educational ones. Recorded audio narrations and Braille supplement the park’s signage. A visitor center marks the park’s main entrance, but before you arrive, it is advised to purchase a ticket through the website of the Sistema Nacional de Áreas de Conservación (National System of Conservation Areas, SINAC; www.sinac.go.cr).

Hiking

Three of the park’s trails are accessible beyond the visitor center. A fourth trail is located 2 km (1.2 mi) up the road, just south of the Crocodile Bridge; stop at the visitor center first to pay the entrance fee. The trails here are easy to explore on your own; no reservations are needed. Most Tárcoles and Jacó tour operators run guided tours to the park daily.

Sendero Acceso Universal

Universal Access Trail; 1.2-km (0.7-mi) loop; 30-60 minutes; easy

The first trail beyond the visitor center is the Sendero Acceso Universal. This paved, flat, and wheelchair-friendly trail provides ample resting stations, water fountains, and a restroom halfway along the route. Leisurely walkers should give themselves an hour to complete the walk; however, speedier hikers can cover the trail in much less time. There is plenty to see as you meander through the forest, including leaf-cutter ants, iguanas, giant ceiba and espavé trees, and the endemic cafecillo shrub.

Río Tárcoles and the Crocodile Bridge

One locale you can visit in Costa Rica that delivers wildlife on demand is the lower section of Río Tárcoles (Tárcoles River). Hundreds of American crocodiles lurk in the river’s cloudy waters and sun their scaly bodies on the riverbanks. The bulky creatures are striking to look at, especially getting to see so many together in the wild.

Depending on the amount of time you have, aim to see the crocodiles in one of the following two ways.

VISIT THE CROCODILE BRIDGE

On Highway 34, approximately 2.5 km (1.5 mi) north of Parque Nacional Carara, a road bridge dubbed the Crocodile Bridge crosses Río Tárcoles. A fast, easy, and cost-free way to spot the crocodiles at a distance is by visiting the bridge and peering over the guardrail on its west side. Hold on to the guardrail tightly; cars and big rigs fly past the spot and could knock you off balance.

Many people stop at the bridge, typically while on their way to Jacó, Manuel Antonio, or other destinations in the region. If you drive to the bridge, you’ll find small parking areas at its north and south ends. The north end has a few restaurants and souvenir stalls that cater to the busloads of foreigners that frequent the bridge, but you’re more likely to come across a street vendor selling pipa fría (cold coconut water served in a coconut) at the south end. Regardless of where you park, lock your vehicle to best prevent theft. If you plan to use a shared shuttle or private transfer service to travel between destinations, most drivers will stop briefly at the bridge if you ask in advance.

TAKE A BOAT TOUR ON RÍO TÁRCOLES

Guided boat tours provide interactive, informative, and up-close crocodile-viewing experiences. Government organizations, tourism businesses, and area residents, however, debate whether the excursions cause more harm than good. Some sources suggest that the excursions cause the crocs to leave their known turf and turn up elsewhere along the coast, increasing the likelihood of an attack on an unsuspecting human. Others believe that the illegal practice of feeding the crocodiles during tours increases aggression in the animals. Most Tárcoles boat tour operators respect the law, but a few flaunt it. My recommendation is to ask any boat tour operator whether you’ll witness a crocodile feeding during the tour; take your business elsewhere if they respond in the affirmative.

If you want to see the crocodiles by boat, stick to the local tour operator Nature Group Costa Rica (tel. 506/4600-0800; https://naturegroupcr.com; 6:30am-4:30pm daily). Their Tárcoles Marvels Tour (8am, 10am, 1pm, and 2:30pm daily; 2.5-3 hours; $90 pp over age 8) is a combined crocodile-viewing and bird-watching boat tour on Río Tárcoles. The team members behind the business are active in Tárcoles, the community closest to the river mouth; they help keep the river clean through garbage pickups and other conservation efforts. Best of all, they adore the local wildlife—and they never feed the crocodiles.

Sendero Quebrada Bonita and Sendero Las Aráceas

Quebrada Bonita Trail; 1.5-km (0.9-mi) loop; 30-45 minutes; easy-moderate; Las Aráceas Trail; 1.2-km (0.7-mi) loop; 30 minutes; easy-moderate

Although they have separate names, Sendero Quebrada Bonita and Sendero Las Aráceas are circular trails, connected by a bridge, that form a single figure eight. These conjoined trails go deeper into the park’s forest, offering a look at its wild, less trodden interior and a few gentle streams. The narrow, rough-hewn trails are accessed via a cutoff from Sendero Acceso Universal. When you’ve completed the dual-trail circuit and want to exit the park, backtrack through the Sendero Acceso Universal—the marked exit signs lead to a point where the park meets the highway; if you follow them, you’ll need to walk alongside the heavily trafficked road to get back to the visitor center and your vehicle.

Sendero Laguna Meándrica

Laguna Meándrica Trail; 2 km (1.2 mi) one-way; 45 minutes; easy-moderate

Birders in particular love strolling through Sendero Laguna Meándrica, the park trail that originates north of the visitor center. The out-and-back path darts into the protected area and ends just beyond the large Laguna Meándrica (Meándrica Lagoon). Part of the trail crosses open areas, where there is little cover from the sun. Visit during the early morning when the sun is not directly overhead. You can explore the park’s other trails, which are mainly shaded, at midday.

Bird-Watching

Birding tour guides proclaim that this park is one of the best—if not the best—bird-watching sites in Costa Rica.

There’s an array of birds along the park’s Sendero Laguna Meándrica (Laguna Meándrica Trail), including trogons, bellbirds, woodcreepers, hawks, owls, and a list of others. If you’re lucky, you’ll be dazzled by the smooth moves of a male red-capped manakin—nicknamed the Michael Jackson bird—as it moonwalks along tree branches as part of a mating ritual. Sightings of colorful scarlet macaws are most sought after. Hundreds inhabit the area, and several can often be seen flying overhead around the park; sightings are usually at dawn and dusk but are possible throughout the day. Bird sightings vary significantly depending on the time of day and the time of year. Nature Group Costa Rica (tel. 506/4600-0800; https://naturegroupcr.com; 6:30am-4:30pm daily) and Vic-Tours (tel. 506/8723-3008; www.victourscostarica.com) are experts at pinpointing when you’re most likely to see precise species. Both outfitters coordinate custom park tours that can help you spot and photograph the elusive birds you’re eager to see. Prices range $60-90 pp.

Getting There

The park is to the immediate east of Tárcoles and is best accessed by car. It’s a 4-km (2.5-mi), five-minute drive from Tárcoles to the main entrance of the park. From Jacó, the park is a 25-km (15.5-mi), 20-minute drive north on Highway 34.

The well-marked turnoff to the entrance is along Highway 34, about 2.5 km (1.5 mi) south of the Crocodile Bridge. There’s a large parking lot at the main entrance; a second, smaller lot is at the trailhead for Sendero Laguna Meándrica.

Manuel Antonio and Quepos

Midway along the central Pacific coast is one of the country’s must-visit beach destinations: the sprawling community of Manuel Antonio, known for hillside properties, ocean views, beach access, varied cuisines, and fun energy. It’s also close to the national park of the same name. This accessible park, Manuel Antonio’s primary draw and one of Costa Rica’s most visited attractions, impresses with soft and beautiful beaches, several hiking trails, diverse ecosystems, and abundant wildlife.

Acting as a gateway to Manuel Antonio, the flat banana port-turned-fishing town of Quepos sits north of both the park and the community. Several shops, restaurants, and accommodations are scattered about the town.

Both Manuel Antonio and Quepos offer an endless number of day tours, mainly water-based activities and nature expeditions that showcase the area’s wildlife and marinelife. Others head into the mountains north of the area and focus on authentic activities steeped in Costa Rican culture, like farm and plantation tours. Activity centers and tour operator offices can be found in Quepos and Manuel Antonio. All service guests of either area.

Manuel Antonio and Quepos share a vibrant LGBTQ community. Several establishments are LGBTQ-run and others are LGBTQ-friendly. They give the area a welcoming inclusive vibe.

Orientation

Quepos is a bustling concentrated town jam-packed with shops, restaurants, and other businesses that cater primarily to locals. It sits alongside the Pacific Ocean just south of Highway 34. In Quepos center, the downtown corridor falls within Avenida 5 to the north and Avenida 2 to the south. Both are one-way streets; traffic on Avenida 5 flows west, and traffic on Avenida 2 flows east. Just southwest of town, the 195-slip Marina Pez Vela provides the most tourist-friendly services, restaurants, and tour operator offices in Quepos.

From the southeast corner of Quepos, Road 618 provides an easy but curvy 15-minute drive up and down a hillside, ending at beach level. Lacking clear borders and an obvious center, Manuel Antonio sprawls across the entire stretch of Road 618 and down small side streets. Most accommodations, restaurants, and shops sit along this stretch. A handful of others cluster near Playa Espadilla Norte, Manuel Antonio’s principal beach, at the southern terminus of Road 618, and on the side road that leads east to the national park.

Separating Playa Espadilla Norte in the south from Quepos in the north is Punta Quepos (Quepos Point), a small, forest-covered, hilly peninsula that extends into the ocean. A few of Manuel Antonio’s upscale resorts dot the peninsula.

SIGHTS

TOP EXPERIENCE

S Isla Damas

GOOGLE MAP

Just 7 km (4.3 mi) northwest of Quepos is Isla Damas (Damas Island), a tranquil mangrove ecosystem. This area, technically an estuary, lends itself to quiet, slow, up-close exploration of nature—and it is truly replete with wildlife. You’re bound to run into a capuchin monkey (or an entire troop) at the spot, which is full of birds, iguanas, lizards, caimans, and my favorite local inhabitants: tiger crabs.

You can learn about the important role tiger crabs and other creatures play in the ecosystem’s life cycle during a narrated tour of the mangroves. Mangrove experts Manuel Antonio Expeditions (tel. 506/8365-1057; www.manuelantonioexpeditions.blogspot.com) and Paddle 9 (Road 618, 50 km/31 mi southeast of Avenida 2, Quepos; tel. 506/2777-7436; www.paddle9sup.com; 7am-6pm daily) lead excursions through the swampy Isla Damas and its web of intertwined tree roots while sharing tons of fascinating facts about mangroves and how their survival is vital to the protection of our oceans. With Manuel Antonio Expeditions, you can tour the mangroves by boat (4 hours; $65 pp) or by paddle kayak (4 hours; $65 pp). Paddle 9 offers tours by pedal kayak (3.5 hours; $85 adults, $55 under age 12) or by stand-up paddleboard (3.5 hours; $75 adults, $45 under age 10).

Regardless of whether you’re cruising through the ecosystem in a pontoon boat (with protection from the sun or rain) or floating through it in a kayak or on a board, you’ll have an enjoyable and informative experience. The activity is a must if you’re interested in ecology or unique ecosystems. The boat tour in particular is a favorite among less active travelers and families with young children. Tour times are tide dependent, and round-trip transportation from Manuel Antonio and Quepos hotels is included.

Villa Vanilla

14.5 km (9 mi) northeast of Quepos, Villa Nueva; tel. 506/8839-2721; www.rainforestspices.com; 7am-3pm Mon.-Fri., 7am-noon Sat.

The spice plantation Villa Vanilla is hidden in the mountainous landscape that towers over Quepos from the northeast. This 125-acre property has a sensational 27-acre farm dedicated to the production of high-quality vanilla and cinnamon, as well as other products that include cacao, pepper, turmeric, allspice, and essential oils.

You’ll learn about spice processing during the biodynamic farm’s eye-opening Flavors of the World Spice Tasting Tour (9am and 1pm Mon.-Fri., 9am Sat.; 2.5 hours; $53 adults, $32 ages 5-12, cash only), a light walking tour around the plantation. The guided educational experience will overload your senses as you see, smell, touch, and taste many of the crops grown on-site. If you wish to take some home with you, you can purchase products at the property’s small Spice Shoppe. Don’t miss this farm if you’re a foodie; the rich gastronomic experience is unlike any other in Costa Rica. If you don’t have a rental car to drive out to the farm, Villa Vanilla can provide round-trip transportation from Manuel Antonio accommodations ($10 pp).

BEACHES

Playa Espadilla Norte

Manuel Antonio’s most visited beach is Playa Espadilla Norte. Not to be confused with Playa Espadilla Sur, which is inside Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio and only accessible from within the park, Playa Espadilla Norte is the principal beach that spans much of Manuel Antonio up to the boundary of the park. The beach has soft light-brown sand, a shallow shore perfect for strolling in flip-flops, and small crashing waves that are fun to play in. There’s a strong undertow, so keep a close eye on young swimmers.

beachgoers on Playa Espadilla Norte in Manuel Antonio

Most visitors congregate at the south end of the beach, where there are restaurants, souvenir shops, and the occasional food cart. Park yourself farther north to avoid crowds or to watch local surfers maneuver the break that fronts the nearby Playa Playitas, which is accessible by crossing over the rocks that separate it from Playa Espadilla Norte. You can rent sets of umbrellas from vendors on the beach; however, lush vegetation backs the sand and provides plenty of shade for free. Mary’s Rentals (on the beach at Playa Espadilla Norte; tel. 506/8827-5305; 7am-5pm daily) rewards customers with free access to parking, lockers, a tented dressing room, and an outdoor shower. In addition to umbrellas (rented with two chairs and one table for $25 pp), Mary’s has surfboards, bodyboards, stand-up paddleboards, kayaks, snorkeling gear, and towels ($4-20 per hour, $12-60 per day).

Playa Biesanz

Manuel Antonio’s best-kept secret is out. Tucked away on the north side of Punta Quepos (Quepos Point) is the white-sand cove known as Playa Biesanz. When empty, the small spot is your own private oasis, but it doesn’t take much for the small beach to feel full. The busiest times are late December-early April and weekends year-round. This is a great spot for swimming and snorkeling right off the beach, as schools of tropical fish frolic in the bay’s warm waters. Vendors rent equipment on the beach ($10 per hour).

The beach is accessed via a short but steep forested trail near the Shana by the Beach Hotel.

RECREATION

S Sailing

Take to the ocean on a sailboat or catamaran to capture a stunning view of Manuel Antonio. From the water, you’ll see luxury resorts adorning lush hills and sandy stretches speckled with beachgoers spanning the coast. Most boat tours sail as far south as Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio, where you can catch a glimpse of Punta Catedral (Cathedral Point), a wide, tall, tree-filled landform edged by a sharp rocky escarpment that slices into the ocean. The pristine scene is particularly beautiful from the water, where waves crash into rough rock faces, and seabirds soar between the point’s treetops and nearby islets.

Planet Dolphin

Marina Pez Vela, Quepos; tel. 506/2777-1647; www.planetdolphin.com; 7am-9pm daily

My preferred sailing operator is the prompt and professional Planet Dolphin. Its sailing, snorkeling, and dolphin-watching tour (9am and 2pm daily; 3.5-4 hours; $80 adults, $60 ages 5-9, $8 under age 5) is one of the most enjoyable experiences I have had in Manuel Antonio. More a relaxing jaunt on the water than a booze cruise (although an open bar is included), the tour provides a leisurely sail along the coast, an opportunity to snorkel and swim at Playa Biesanz, and plenty of chances to see dolphins swimming alongside the boat. If you’re lucky, you can spot sea turtles, rays, and whales too. Although the surrounding scenery is the tour highlight, a close second is the buffet of fish brochettes, pasta salad, and other delights prepared by the crew and served aboard the boat. Planet Dolphin’s tour fleet includes two boats that hold 110 passengers and 150 passengers each. A third boat, carrying up to 12 passengers, can be rented for private charters ($675-1,580).

White-Water Rafting

The Manuel Antonio area offers two prime rivers for white-water rafting. The Class II-III Río Savegre (90 minutes’ drive from downtown Quepos) stuns with clear waters and a rainforest-laden backdrop. The Class III-IV Río Naranjo (30 minutes’ drive from downtown Quepos) has more thrilling rapid runs, especially if you opt to tour the steep section known as El Chorro (Jan.-Apr. only), which features river drops and infamously narrow lines.

The area’s top two rafting tour companies, Amigos del Río (ADR for short) and H2O Adventures, run trips down the rivers, albeit at different times of day and with different minimum age requirements for some tours. Choose the outfitter that offers the tour time that works best with your itinerary and that can accommodate the young travelers in your group.

Amigos del Río

ADR, Road 618, 4.5 km (2.8 mi) north of the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-0082; www.amigosdelrio.net; 8am-9pm daily

The decades-old outfitter Amigos del Río, established in Manuel Antonio before tourism descended upon the area, is a reliable choice that is detail oriented, safety conscious, and passionate. Its river trips run on Río Savegre (8am daily; 6 hours; $115 pp; min. age 6), Río Naranjo (7:30am and 11:45am daily May-Dec.; 4-4.5 hours; $95 pp; min. age 12), and Río Naranjo—El Chorro section (8am and 9:30am daily Jan.-Apr.; 4-4.5 hours; $105 pp; min. age 12).

H2O Adventures

Road 618, 300 m (328 yd) southeast of the central church, Quepos; tel. 506/8959-8989; www.h2ocr.com; 7am-5pm daily

H2O Adventures is equally well-known and respected and has nearly as many years of experience rafting Manuel Antonio’s rivers as ADR. H2O provides rafting tours on Río Savegre (anytime 8am-1pm daily; 5.5-6 hours; $146 pp; min. age 6), Río Naranjo (anytime 8am-noon daily May-Dec.; 4-4.5 hours; $134 pp; min. age 8), and Río Naranjo—El Chorro section (anytime 8am-10:30am daily Jan.-Apr.; 4-4.5 hours; $138 pp; min. age 16).

Zip-Lining

Tití Canopy Tour

La Foresta Nature Resort, Hwy. 34; tel. 506/2777-3130; www.titicanopytour.com; 6am-10pm daily

It’s no surprise that in popular Manuel Antonio there are several places where you can go zip-lining. I’ve long preferred the Tití Canopy Tour, in part because of its less competitive approach to offering the activity. The company seems to have its priorities straight: It is steadfast in being safe, it provides a fun zip-lining experience that is exciting—especially for first-time gliders—but not over the top, it doesn’t overcharge (the optional Tarzan swing is free, and photos of the tour, which are available to purchase, are fairly priced), and the 10-cable canopy tour (7:30am, 11am, and 2:30pm daily; 2.5 hours; $85 pp; min. age 5) offers high value, including a complimentary lunch and transportation from Manuel Antonio hotels in the rate. I also like that this canopy tour takes place a 10-minute drive outside of Quepos in a quiet expanse of forest.

Surfing and Stand-Up Paddling

Manuel Antonio Surf School

MASS; Road 618, 6 km (3.7 mi) north of the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-4842; www.manuelantoniosurfschool.com; 7:30am-7:30pm daily

Although the Manuel Antonio area isn’t dominated by surf culture, it offers consistent swells and a handful of awesome breaks. Independent surf instructors sell impromptu lessons on the beach at Playa Espadilla Norte, but you’ll get a safer, more professional experience if you surf with the trained gang at the Manuel Antonio Surf School. They offer three types of surf lessons (9am and 1pm daily; 3 hours; surfboard and rash guard rental included): group (3 students per instructor; $79 pp), semiprivate (2 students per instructor; $90 pp), and private (1 student per instructor; $100 pp). They also rent surfboards ($15 per hour) and run surf tours (tour times tide dependent; 4-4.5 hours; $110-150 pp) to some of their favorite surf spots beyond Manuel Antonio, including Isla Damas and Dominical. If you enjoy stand-up paddling, the SUP Chills Tour (8am, 11am, and 2pm daily; 2.5 hours; $70-100 pp) travels south from Playa Espadilla Norte toward Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio, and makes stops along the way for snorkeling and enjoying a snack on an island. It’s a fun way to see the lush beach-lined park from the water.

Scuba Diving and Free Diving

Twelve small islands just off the coast at Manuel Antonio, each a short boat ride from Quepos, provide nearly 20 dive sites that range 10-18 m (33-59 ft) in depth. Dives showcase volcanic rock formations and the marinelife around Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio, including large and small species of fish, dolphins, eels, and crustaceans. Less commonly spotted are white-tip sharks, sea turtles, and rays. Offshore deep dives, for experienced divers, bottom out at 40 m (131 ft), where pelagic species are more frequently seen. Water temperatures average in the 20s Celsius (low 70s-mid-80s Fahrenheit). Visibility varies by season; December-April offers the best visibility at 10-20 m (33-66 ft).

Ocean’s Unlimited

Marina Pez Vela, Quepos; tel. 506/8805-8042; www.scubadivingcostarica.com; 7am-6pm Mon.-Sat.

The best dive operator in the area is Ocean’s Unlimited. It specializes in local day dives (7:30am and 12:30pm daily; 4.5 hours; $130 pp for 2 tanks) but also runs occasional night dives (by demand, Dec.-Apr.; 2.5 hours; $95 pp for 2 tanks) and deep dives (7:30am daily; 6 hours; $130 pp for 2 tanks) for advanced divers. Equipment rental is included with each option. It also offers a plethora of scuba certification courses, including the Discover Scuba Diving course, the minimum accreditation you need to dive in Costa Rica.

Rica Freedivers

Calle 5, 50 m (164 ft) south of Avenida 2, Quepos; tel. 506/8725-4908; www.ricafreedivers.com; 7:30am-4pm daily

If you have a specific interest in free diving, a.k.a. breath-hold diving, Rica Freedivers teaches the sport to beginners with a basic half-day free-diving course ($140 pp) and educates avid divers through a PADI-certified free-diving course ($500 pp; min. age 12).

Canyoneering

Amigos del Río

Road 618, 4.5 km (2.8 mi) north of the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-0082; www.amigosdelrio.net; 8am-9pm daily

One of the wildest adventures you can have around Manuel Antonio is the adrenaline-pumping 10-in-1 Adventure Tour (7:45am and 8:45am daily; 7 hours; $140 pp; min. age 8) offered by Amigos del Río. The experience is a mash-up of waterfall and canyon rappels, zip lines, a Tarzan swing, a via ferrata walk (a route with ladders and cables) along a canyon’s edge, a caving ladder, and a free fall into a river pool, plus a crazy 4WD ride over rough terrain to get to the mountain clearing where the adventure begins. The entire ordeal is a thrilling hodgepodge of stunts and challenges.

Horseback Riding

Rancho Típico Don Juan

Hwy. 34, 12 km (7.5 mi) north of the entrance to the national park; tel. 506/8858-7770; www.ranchotipicodonjuan.com

No place around Manuel Antonio provides a more enjoyable and authentic Costa Rican horseback experience than Rancho Típico Don Juan. You’ll saddle up at the ranch of the Mora family, a 10-minute drive outside of Quepos, where host Randall, the youngest of three generations, runs a combined horseback nature, wildlife-viewing, and waterfall tour (7:30am and 1pm daily Dec.-Apr., 7:30am daily May-Nov.; 5 hours; $85 adults, $30 ages 3-5; min. age 3) around his family’s 300-acre estate. The experience is both eye-catching and eye-opening. You’ll see the beauty of a wild rural landscape softened by hills and gentle streams, and you’ll learn about the history of the area and the importance of conservation while exploring precious primary forest. The resident fauna (frogs, monkeys, cows, butterflies, and more) makes regular appearances, and the marvelous centuries-old tree is a must-see. Providing a look at the life and values of Costa Rican campesinos (farmers), it’s fitting that the tour ends with a complimentary traditional Costa Rican lunch. The tour requires some walking; wear running shoes and your swimsuit under your clothes if you wish to swim at the waterfall. Children ages 3-5 can only participate if they have an accompanying parent or guardian on the horse with them. Depending on their size and experience, children age 6 and older may ride their own horse. If so, they pay the adult rate ($85).

FOOD

Manuel Antonio isn’t a resort town, but the inflated meal prices may cause you to think that it is. Especially if you’ve arrived from an inland destination, such as La Fortuna, Monteverde, or towns in the Central Valley, where the cost of food is generally lower, you’ll notice that meals in Manuel Antonio, particularly at restaurants blessed with amazing ocean views, don’t come cheap.

S Hillside Restaurants

Undoubtedly pricey but worth the cost is the experience of dining at a hillside restaurant that takes in a sweeping view of the Pacific Ocean and Manuel Antonio’s lush slopes. Several restaurants provide this experience; most are on the west side of Road 618, between Quepos and Manuel Antonio at beach level. The best, including my recommended hillside restaurants, have alfresco dining spaces that not only embrace the view but also warm tropical breezes and the occasional howler monkey serenade. Pick your favorite and go for drinks, appetizers, or a full meal, but don’t forget your camera. Reservations are strongly recommended, especially for dinner when a fiery setting sun puts on a spectacular show and people flood the restaurants to see it.

S Emilio’s Café

off Road 618, 50 m (164 ft) south of El Patio de Café Milagro, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-6807; 7am-9pm Wed.-Mon.; $15-25

My preferred place to enjoy an elevated breakfast or brunch, but open for all meals of the day, is Emilio’s Café. Down a side road and with a lackluster front entrance, this café wows inside with its wide-reaching ocean view, classy but casual ambience, and divine food. This is the place to go for a perfect serving of eggs Benedict, a well-constructed cup of coffee, a coffee-crusted sirloin steak, or a slice of decadent cake, among other high-end food and drink options.

Mi Lugar

off Road 618, 750 m (820 yd) south of Amigos del Río, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-5120; www.ronnysplace.com; noon-10pm daily; $16-24

Nicknamed and known by most as Ronny’s Place, Mi Lugar serves a few international dishes, such as pastas, hamburgers, and burritos, but I like its Costa Rican preparations. Try one of four different types of ceviche or delicious black bean soup. If you go only for drinks or dessert, several menu options leave delightful lasting impressions, despite being gimmicky. Piña coladas are sipped straight from a hollowed-out pineapple, and orders of bananas foster bring about a mesmerizing fire show.

El Lagarto

Road 618, 4 km (2.5 mi) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-6932; www.ellagartobbq.com; 3pm-10pm daily; $18-28

El Lagarto is the go-to spot for food prepared a la parrilla (on the grill). The restaurant offers barbecued chicken, vegetables, fish, lobster, shrimp, and octopus, plus loads of beef cuts. To produce meals of the highest caliber, El Lagarto sources ingredients from around the country, bringing in high-grade beef from plains around the northern inland region, seafood caught off the coast of the Nicoya Peninsula, and vegetables grown in the Central Valley. The restaurant’s open design allows you to watch chefs prepare your meal on wood-burning grills.

Costa Rican

Restaurante Donde Alex

off Road 618, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/8301-6714; 6:30am-10pm Wed.-Mon.; $12-22

If you leave the national park feeling tired and hungry, saunter over to Restaurante Donde Alex, a mere 50 m (164 ft) beyond the park’s exit. At this breezy eatery, you can recharge with a refreshing glass of limonada con hierba buena (spearmint lemonade) or fill up on authentic Costa Rican food. It also serves a delicious helping of gallo pinto (a traditional rice and bean blend), so grab breakfast here if your lodging doesn’t provide it. Although the restaurant’s range of surf and turf specialties drives up the average cost of a meal, the prices for casados are some of the lowest in the area. Parking space is limited.

Restaurante Donde Alex

S La Luna

Gaia Hotel and Reserve, off Road 618, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-9797; www.gaiahr.com; 6am-10pm daily; $16-26

La Luna’s classy take on Costa Rican cuisine imparts an air of luxury, but the restaurant isn’t ritzy; it’s a comfortable place to relax and take in a sweeping hillside view. Meanwhile, the top-notch service and exquisite food preparations deliver a fine-dining experience. The menu leads a trip around the country; some dishes, like the seafood casserole inspired by the southern Caribbean, are signature meals in their respective regions, and others, like the rice cake grilled with Turrialba cheese, feature the flagship products of Costa Rican towns. A few dishes were uniquely created with vegans and vegetarians in mind.

Vegetarian and Vegan

S El Patio de Café Milagro

Road 618, 3 km (1.9 mi) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-2272; www.elpatiodecafemilagro.com; 6:30am-9:30pm daily; $11.50-19.50

One of Manuel Antonio’s best cafés is also a fantastic choice for diners who don’t eat meat or dairy products. Not only does El Patio de Café Milagro provide a warm and cozy ambience, but 11 of its menu items are vegan, and 9 more are vegetarian. Several accommodate gluten-free diets too. There are rich vegan omelets, pancakes, and crepes for breakfast; a vegan taco with quinoa, light vegetarian sandwiches, salads, and quesadillas for lunch; and a flavor-packed Caribbean-inspired coconut milk and vegetable curry for dinner. Yum!

International

Falafel Bar

Road 618, 3.5 km (2.2 mi) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-4135; 10am-9pm daily; $8.50-15

For a quick bite, head to the Falafel Bar. You can order falafels on their own or as part of a pita sandwich with hummus. The healthy fusion smoothies and popsicles that come in unique flavor combinations, including pineapple and mint, banana and date, melon and honey, and blackberry and ginger, are perfect for cooling off on a hot day. The food is best enjoyed while lounging on one of the comfy benches on the small establishment’s shaded front patio.

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

Both Quepos and Manuel Antonio have lively nightlife. The bar scene in Quepos is clustered together, louder, and attracts mostly locals, except for establishments at Marina Pez Vela, where foreigners represent the bulk of clientele. In contrast, nightlife venues in Manuel Antonio are spread around the community and generally more welcoming of tourists. Happy hours are everywhere you look in the community, and low-key live music nights are held throughout the week at an endless list of comfortable, unpretentious venues. Featured acts and performance times change regularly, so it’s best to ask around for the current schedule.

Pubs and Bars

Ape

Road 618, 3.1 km (1.9 mi) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2102-6400; 6pm-midnight Tues.-Sun.

Worth getting dolled up for is Ape, a hip, sophisticated, second-floor bar with a fun and inclusive vibe, dazzling cocktails, and funky art.

El Avión Pub

Road 618, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-3378; www.elavion.net; noon-10pm daily

Inside a C-123 Fairchild cargo plane is where you’ll find Manuel Antonio’s most unique bar, the El Avión Pub. The pub is small, and seating is limited, but it’s a fun place to grab a beer or a cocktail. Don’t leave before taking a photo in the cockpit!

Cuba Libre Restaurant & Bar

Marina Pez Vela, Quepos; tel. 506/2519-9091; 11am-10pm Mon.-Sat.

If you find yourself thirsty for a drink while in Quepos, you can sip your choice of wine, whiskey, or beer, or opt for one of nearly 45 inventive cocktails and shots, at the marina’s upscale Cuba Libre Restaurant & Bar while enjoying a view of the Pacific Ocean. And yes, they serve cuba libres (drinks built with rum, Coke, and lime)!

LGBTQ Clubs

Drunken Monkey

Road 618, 3.1 km (1.9 mi) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/6126-2869; 5pm-3am daily

In 2022, the Drunken Monkey became the new face of the Karma Lounge, Manuel Antonio’s beloved LGBTQ bar. Though the Drunken Monkey isn’t an LGBTQ bar per se, it’s a gay-friendly club that has drag shows, DJs, dancing, and karaoke nights. Following a move in 2023, the club now occupies the first floor of the building it shares with Ape.

Live Music

El Patio de Café Milagro

Road 618, 3 km (1.9 mi) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-2272; www.elpatiodecafemilagro.com; 6:30am-9:30pm daily

El Patio de Café Milagro is my favorite place to enjoy live music in Manuel Antonio, hosting musicians every night of the week.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Manuel Antonio has accommodations on and off the beach. While proximity to a beach is a must for many travelers, most of Manuel Antonio’s best hotels are away from the water, tucked into quiet, private, luxurious properties on the community’s lush hills. They require you to drive or take a bus, taxi, or hotel shuttle to the beach, but the travel time is 10 minutes or less. Most visitors agree that the trip is worth making to have a peaceful highland retreat to return to at the end of the day.

There’s little reason to base yourself in Quepos. Most of its lodging options are economical hostels and hotels. Instead, if you’re on a budget, choose an inexpensive lodging in Manuel Antonio so you don’t miss out on the community’s unique energy.

$50-100

Selina Manuel Antonio

Road 618, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/4000-1338; www.selina.com; dorm $50, private $161 s/d

The happening hostel in town is Selina Manuel Antonio. It attracts young social travelers with its lantern-lit pool areas (complete with pool inflatables), a tiki-style bar, a pool table, and a yoga deck. Four-, six- and eight-bed dorms with bunks sleep 1-8 and are equipped with lights, shelves, and lockers for individual guest use. Most of the 38 private rooms accommodate two guests.

$100-150

S Hotel Naoz

off Road 618, 4 km (2.5 mi) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-6269; www.hotelnaoz.com; $127 s/d

The stylishly luxurious and shockingly affordable Hotel Naoz is a hidden gem, tucked back off the main road on a quiet side street. All 17 spacious, spotless rooms (sleep 1-4) in the three-story boutique hotel treat guests to soft beds, air-conditioning and air purification systems, flat-screen TVs, and upscale baths. A courtyard encircled by beautiful tropical gardens provides an intimate space to soak in a heated pool, lie on a lounge chair under an umbrella, or sip a drink from the poolside bar. Breakfast is included.

La Posada Jungle Hotel

off Road 618, 50 m (164 ft) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-1446; www.laposadajungle.com; $150 s/d

If you favor proximity to the national park, La Posada Jungle Hotel is next to the protected land. The two-story hotel has 12 beachy, brightly decorated rooms that add to the property’s upbeat aura. The pool, common area, and restaurant are small but provide enough space for socializing. Reserve a few months in advance; the property tends to sell out.

$150-250

Hotel Plaza Yara

Road 618, 5 km (3.1 mi) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-4846; www.hotelplazayara.com; $175 s/d

One of the quietest places I’ve come across in Manuel Antonio is Hotel Plaza Yara. Fifteen oversize suites with kitchenettes and bamboo furniture fill the two-story structure. On the main road that connects Quepos to Manuel Antonio, the hotel hides a tropical forest out back. There are gathering areas in each suite, which, depending on the space, might be a balcony or might be an interior space set by a large window. The hotel’s pool and the lovely alfresco breakfast area border the peaceful rainforest and provide scenic areas for relaxing.

S Hotel Playa Espadilla

off Road 618, 400 m (0.25 mi) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-0903; www.espadilla.com; $219 s/d

Each time I stay at Hotel Playa Espadilla, I awake to the calls of howler monkeys in the nearby national park. Location is key at this hotel, which has 16 rooms in two buildings connected by a set of staircases. The spacious rooms are decorated in warm colors and feature cathedral ceilings with dark wood beams; second-floor rooms have balconies. On-site you’ll find a restaurant with a bar, pools, and a tennis court.

Over $250

S Si Como No Resort

Road 618, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-0777; www.sicomono.com [URL inactive]; $350 s/d

My favorite upscale resort in the region is the family-friendly and rainforest-inspired Si Como No Resort. The luxury here is understated. You’ll notice it in the resort’s multitiered design, beautifully landscaped property, colorful stained-glass decor, substantial buffet breakfast, and friendly service. Each of the 58 spacious, comfortable rooms is perched on the Manuel Antonio hillside with a private balcony to enjoy rainforest or ocean views. There are no TVs, and the resort’s pools, bars, restaurants, and spa will spoil you. Best of all, the eco-conscious resort, which sparked the development of sustainable hotels in Costa Rica when it opened in 1992, adheres to a long list of sustainable practices and is active in protecting Manuel Antonio’s land and wildlife.

Tulemar Resort

Road 618, 3.5 km (2.2 mi) northwest of the entrance to the national park, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-9121; www.tulemarresort.com; $375 s/d

Stay in one of the eight wood-trimmed bungalows at the Tulemar Resort and you’ll feel like you’ve uncovered a slice of Manuel Antonio unbeknownst to the masses. Set in a quiet gated complex shared with villas and vacation homes, the octagon-shaped bungalows (sleep 1-4) peek out from the lush hillside, take in wall-to-wall ocean views, and are within walking distance of an exclusive beach. Inside each is a bedroom, bath, living room, and fully equipped kitchen. Though I doubt you’ll want to leave your delightful bungalow, you’ll find a restaurant and four refreshing pools around the property.

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

On the outskirts of Quepos is Hospital Max Terán Valls (Hwy. 34, 650 m/0.4 mi northwest of the Quepos airport; tel. 506/2774-9500; 24 hours daily), the hospital that serves much of the central Pacific coast.

In town, Marina Pez Vela has a police station (Quepos; tel. 506/2777-7140; 24 hours daily) and a clinic, called Hospital Metropolitano (tel. 506/4070-4040; 24 hours daily), with a pharmacy.

The downtown core has several banks and supermarkets. The post office (Quepos; tel. 506/2643-2175; 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Fri.) is on the north side of the fútbol field.

In Manuel Antonio, there are supermarkets, pharmacies, and banks. You’ll find them along Road 618. You can have your clothes washed at Lavandería Lucimaria (Road 618, beside Amigos del Río, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/8492-2233; 9am-9pm daily). However, many hotels in the vicinity offer laundry services to guests.

There is a gas station (1 km/0.6 mi north of the airport) just east of Quepos where Highway 34, Road 235, and Road 616 meet. There’s also a gas station north of town, on Highway 34, about 2.5 km (1.5 mi) before the turnoff to Quepos at Road 235.

GETTING THERE

Air

The Aeropuerto Quepos (XQP) is 5 km (3.1 mi) (a 10-minute drive) northeast of downtown Quepos. SANSA Airlines (tel. 506/2290-4100; www.flysansa.com) offers direct daily flights to Quepos from San José.

Taxis operated by the Manuel Antonio Taxi Service (tel. 506/2777-3080; 24 hours daily) can be called to the airport. Expect to pay $20-30 for a ride to most hotels around Manuel Antonio. Alternatively, Blue Horizon Costa Rica (Playa Espadilla Norte; tel. 506/2277-9292; www.bluehorizoncostarica.com; 8am-5pm daily) can transport you between the airport and your Manuel Antonio hotel in one of its air-conditioned minibuses ($35 for up to 5 people).

Car

To get to Quepos from San José, it’s a 170-km (105-mi) drive west on Highway 27, then south on Highway 34 and Road 235; the trip takes nearly 3 hours. From Liberia, it’s a 255-km (160-mi) drive south on Highways 1, 23, 27, and 34 and Road 235 that takes 4 hours. From La Fortuna, it’s a 245-km (152-mi) drive south on Road 702, Highways 1, 23, 27, and 34, and Road 235 that takes 4.5 hours. From Monteverde, it’s a 190-km (118-mi), 3.5-hour drive southeast on Road 606, Highways 1, 23, 27, and 34, and Road 235.

Highway 34, the main road that leads to the Manuel Antonio and Quepos vicinity from the northwest and the southeast, is a paved highway that poses few obstacles, apart from occasional potholes, people walking on the side of the highway, and possible wildlife crossings. The turnoff to Quepos is at Road 235. Departing from the southeast corner of Quepos, Road 618 connects the town to Manuel Antonio and the national park. It’s equally easy to drive, although it is curvy in some places. From Quepos center to the national park, the drive takes 15 minutes.

Private Transfer Service

Local transportation service providers SAMA Transfers (off Road 616, 850 m/930 yd east of Hwy. 34; tel. 506/8303-4666; www.samatransfers.com; 9am-5pm daily) and Blue Horizon Costa Rica (Playa Espadilla Norte; tel. 506/2277-9292; www.bluehorizoncostarica.com; 8am-5pm daily) can pick you up in most destinations around the country and bring you to Manuel Antonio. Prices average around $200 for the private transfer service from San José.

Shared Shuttle Service

Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com) offers daily shared shuttle services to Quepos and Manuel Antonio from San José, La Fortuna, Monteverde, and Jacó. From San José, the one-way service is about $50 pp.

If all you need is a lift to the beach, check out the beach concierge service ($20 pp, cash only) supplied by Blue Horizon Costa Rica (Playa Espadilla Norte; tel. 506/2277-9292; www.bluehorizoncostarica.com; 8am-5pm daily). It provides transportation to Playa Espadilla Norte from hotels around Quepos and Manuel Antonio, and includes the use of Blue Horizon’s tents, tables, chairs, restrooms, and showers during your time at the beach.

Organized Tour

A few adventure tours by Desafio Adventure Company (tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com) include post-tour onward transportation to Quepos. White-water rafting tours and boat tours on Río Tárcoles can be arranged to include a pickup from your hotel in La Fortuna, then a drop-off at your hotel in Manuel Antonio. You can also reach Manuel Antonio by taking one of Desafio Adventure Company’s hiking tours in Parque Nacional Carara or boat tours on Río Tárcoles that depart from Monteverde or San José. Both experiences provide drop-offs at Manuel Antonio hotels.

Bus

The regional bus station is in the heart of Quepos on Avenida Central, between Calle Central and Calle 2. You can take a public bus to Quepos from San José, Puntarenas, Dominical, or San Isidro de El General.

GETTING AROUND

Paved Road 618 winds through Manuel Antonio and has inclines, declines, curves, and barely any sidewalks. The safest way to travel this stretch is in a vehicle. Walking, biking, or relying on scooters or golf carts is not advised.

Car

Driving around Quepos and Manuel Antonio does not require a 4WD vehicle. Quepos has a few one-way streets; traffic flows west on Avenida 5 at the north end of town and east on Avenida 2 at the south end of town. Road 618, known as Avenida 2 in Quepos, is a two-way street. It goes through Manuel Antonio and ends at a traffic circle in front of the beach.

Bus

Consistently throughout the day, public buses travel Road 618 from Quepos to Playa Espadilla Norte and the national park (and vice versa), passing through Manuel Antonio along the way. You can hop on one of these buses at a few places; two that are easy to locate are the bus stops across the street from the fútbol field (3.6 km/2.2 mi northwest of the entrance to the national park) and near Selina Manuel Antonio (2.5 km/1.5 mi northwest of the entrance to the national park).

S PARQUE NACIONAL MANUEL ANTONIO

GOOGLE MAP

Manuel Antonio National Park; 500 m (0.3 mi) northeast of Road 618 at Playa Espadilla Norte, Manuel Antonio; tel. 506/2777-5185; www.sinac.go.cr; 7am-4pm Wed.-Mon., last entry 3pm, beaches close 3pm; $16 adults, $5 ages 2-12

One of Costa Rica’s most beloved and busiest attractions, Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio is also one of its smallest national parks, occupying less than 5,000 acres of land and 60,000 acres of ocean. The park’s nearly 500,000 visitors each year come for beautiful crescent beaches, where monkeys are known to fraternize with people on the sand. Despite its relatively small size, the park is jam-packed with trails, beaches, and lookout points. Well-designed and maintained trails lead through forested areas, and sightings of two-toed and three-toed sloths are nearly guaranteed. If your ideal day in Costa Rica combines beach relaxation, light nature exploration, and wildlife encounters, you can tick off all three with just a few hours in this park.

Purchase tickets through the website of Costa Rica’s Sistema Nacional de Áreas de Conservación (National System of Conservation Areas, SINAC; www.sinac.go.cr). The electronic tickets are assigned for set days and time slots, and they tend to sell out weeks in advance, especially for high season. An iron gate marks the entrance to the park. Just beyond the gate is the park’s ranger station. Your park ticket is good for one entry; come-and-go access is not permitted.

Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio is one of Costa Rica’s most developed national parks. At the east end of Playa Manuel Antonio, where four nature trails intersect, are restrooms, lockers, and a small café that sells sandwiches, baked goods, coffee, cold beverages, and gelato, plus souvenirs. (It is forbidden to bring food into the park, so plan to eat at the café if you’ll be at the park over lunch.) Additional restrooms are at the entrance to the park, on Playa Manuel Antonio, and at the north end of Playa Espadilla Sur. Potable water is available.

Local Guides and Tours

I’ve been touring Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio since the 2000s and have had the pleasure of meeting and learning a lot from several national park tour guides over the years. Though an overwhelming number of guides congregate near the entrance, the best are secured in advance; my recommended guides tend to book up early, especially for high season, so connect with them as soon as you’ve determined your travel dates. If one of them isn’t available during your trip, reach out to another; each is passionate about the park and delivers a fantastic tour with a focused interest in sharing their love of its ecosystems and wildlife. All carry out park tours with a spotting scope, trained eyes, and years of experience that help them catch what others miss.

Some guides choose to include the park entrance fee and round-trip transportation from Manuel Antonio and Quepos hotels in the cost of their tours, but others do not, so be sure to confirm inclusions when you book. When transportation is not provided, the meeting place is typically the entrance to the park. Most tours are half-day experiences that include a two-hour walk on the park’s principal trails and an hour or so of free time so you can swim or relax at Playa Manuel Antonio. If you choose, you can remain inside the park at the end of the tour and explore additional trails or beaches on your own.

Manuel Antonio Nature Tours

also known as Edwin’s Tours; tel. 506/8888-6684; www.manuelantonionaturetours.com

Lifelong Manuel Antonio residents Edwin Blanco Castillo and Karen Blanco Castillo, co-operators of Manuel Antonio Nature Tours, know the park exceptionally well. Take one of their private park tours (7am, 7:30am, 8am, 8:30am, 11am, 11:30am, noon, and 12:30pm Wed.-Mon.; $85 adults, $40 ages 3-12) to tap into their vast knowledge.

Manuel’s Tours

Road 618 at Avenida 4, Quepos; tel. 506/8719-6195; 7am-7pm Wed.-Mon.

Manuel’s Tours can offer park tours (7am, 7:30am, 8am, 9am, 10am, 11am, and 12:45pm Wed.-Mon.; $59-99 adults, $39-79 under age 12) in English, Spanish, French, and German. If he’s available, reserve a tour with Manuel, the owner; he’s an expert at creating bespoke experiences and can tailor your park tour to help you see and learn about what interests you the most. Manuel’s Tours has experience providing park tours to mobility-impaired visitors and can supply wheelchairs if needed.

Milentours

tel. 506/8896-7699; www.milentours.com

Leading park tours (7:30am and 12:30pm Wed.-Mon.; $60 adults, $43 ages 2-17) with a wide smile is Milenlly (Mile) Araya Masis, one of the small—but growing—group of women who work as park guides. But don’t choose Mile because she’s female, let her lifelong love of animals, background in natural resource management, and desire to teach visitors about the environment win you over.

Manuel Antonio Expeditions

tel. 506/8365-1057; www.manuelantonioexpeditions.blogspot.com

The always-entertaining Pablo (Paul) Gonsalves at Manuel Antonio Expeditions leads park tours (8:30am and 1pm Wed.-Mon.; $51 adults, $35 under age 12) that spark joy. His sense of humor makes touring the park extra fun.

Beaches

Playa Manuel Antonio

Upon entering the park, many visitors head straight for Playa Manuel Antonio to spend anywhere from 20 minutes to eight hours on one of the country’s most idyllic stretches of supple white sand. Long visits are made easy by nearby restrooms, showers, picnic tables, and a water station. You’ll revel in calm waves, a shallow shoreline, and turquoise waters. Get there by taking the Sendero El Manglar (El Manglar Trail), also signed as Bahía 8, and keeping straight toward Sendero El Perezoso (El Perezoso Trail) when the trail forks.

Playa Gemelas

If Playa Manuel Antonio is too crowded, retreat to one of the park’s other equally stunning beaches, like the tiny cove at Playa Gemelas. East of Playa Manuel Antonio and nearly enclosed by forest, Playa Gemelas is one of the quietest, most private beaches in the park. Sendero Playa Gemelas (Playa Gemelas Trail) leads right to it.

Playa Espadilla Sur

West of Playa Manuel Antonio, the long Playa Espadilla Sur is a wide, long beach regularly frequented by park visitors who find Playa Manuel Antonio too busy. From the south end of Playa Manuel Antonio, Sendero Playa Espadilla Sur (Playa Espadilla Sur Trail) provides access to Playa Espadilla Sur.

Hiking

Bahía 8/Sendero El Manglar

El Manglar Trail; 785 m (858 yd) one-way; 15 minutes; easy

One of the park’s most popular trails is Bahía 8/Sendero El Manglar, a raised boardwalk bordered on both sides by mangrove ecosystems. The wheelchair-accessible trail provides a peek at the area’s woody mangroves and includes informational placards in Braille.

Sendero El Perezoso

El Perezoso Trail; 650 m (0.4 mi) one-way; 15 minutes; easy

Sendero El Perezoso, which provides access to Playa Manuel Antonio, is another popular trail. The narrow forest path is aptly named (perezoso means “lazy”), as its namesake sloths sleep in the trees that line the trail, while frogs, lizards, and iguanas scurry below with the sound of your footsteps.

Sendero Playa Espadilla Sur

Playa Espadilla Sur Trail; 650 m (0.4 mi) one-way; 15 minutes; easy

From Playa Manuel Antonio, Sendero Playa Espadilla Sur leads west to Playa Espadilla Sur, then runs north along the beach and connects with Bahía 8/Sendero El Manglar.

Sendero Punta Catedral

Punta Catedral Trail; 1.4-km (0.9 mi) loop; 1 hour; moderate-difficult

To really get to know the park and uncover its less obvious beauty, explore one of its other trails. The Sendero Punta Catedral begins just south of Playa Manuel Antonio. This dense forest hike offers decent bird-watching and ocean and island views.

Sendero Miradores

Miradores Trail; 1.3 km (0.8 mi) one-way; 1 hour; moderate-difficult

Sendero Miradores connects with Sendero Playa Gemelas (Playa Gemelas Trail; 550 m/600 yd one-way; 10 minutes; easy-moderate), Sendero Puerto Escondido (Puerto Escondido Trail; 450 m/492 yd one-way; 10 minutes; easy-moderate), and Sendero Congo (Congo Trail; 300 m/328 yd one-way; 10 minutes; easy-moderate), and are best completed as a set. They lead through the least visited areas of the park, where you’re most likely to run into one of the park’s 107 animal species. (Keep an eye out for endangered squirrel monkeys, referred to by locals as mono tití monkeys; Manuel Antonio is one of only a few places in the country where you can spot them.) Lookout points that frame lush textured headlands juxtaposed with soft stretches of sandy coast are abundant, but be prepared to climb lengthy staircases to reach them.

Getting There

The park is within walking distance of Playa Espadilla Norte and most beachfront hotels. Many high-end Manuel Antonio hotels include a complimentary shuttle to the park entrance.

To drive to the park from Quepos or the hillside section of Manuel Antonio, take Road 618 south to beach level and turn left at Restaurante Marlin. Follow the short side road until it ends just before the park’s entrance. Parking lots are scattered around; expect to pay roughly $10 for the day.

Costa Ballena

South of Quepos and Manuel Antonio, Highway 34 angles toward the coast and passes through dense plantations of lofty African palms. The highway narrowly meets the water at the lackadaisical and popular surf town of Dominical, continues down the coast to the village of Uvita—home to Parque Nacional Marino Ballena—and then bypasses Ojochal, a small collection of upscale establishments. Each destination is unique in the region.

Largely undeveloped Dominical, just off Highway 34 to the south, feels like a local community, not a tourist trap. The only high-rises around are the tall palms that back the beach, which mirror the town’s easygoing vibe. Backpackers and young travelers station themselves in Dominical to soak up the sun, socialize, and laze around like sloths.

Blossoming Uvita is home to a small, tight-knit, and vibrant community of locals and expats. It is marked by plazas, restaurants, and hotels around Highway 34. Additional businesses, including most of the area’s tour operators and a handful of inexpensive digs and diners, are in Bahía (sometimes called Bahía Ballena), a neighborhood south of Uvita.

A mix of prosperous locals and expats inhabit Ojochal, which is spread out in the mountains on the north side of Highway 34. A little cluster of small and casual but polished restaurants puts the destination, nicknamed the culinary capital of Costa Rica, on the map.

Together, the trio of destinations forms the Costa Ballena (Ballena Coast), spanning roughly 35 km (22 mi) of coastline. Leisurely drives through the region are particularly scenic, thanks to rainforest-covered mountains in the northern sections and up-close ocean views in the southern parts. Detours off the highway lead to empty beaches, forest-wrapped waterfalls, mountainside homesteads, and hotels with panoramic views. Though hopping between destinations along the Costa Ballena is easy, most visitors base themselves in one area, typically Dominical or Uvita, and make day trips to area attractions.

SIGHTS

Dominical

TOP EXPERIENCE

S Cataratas Nauyaca

GOOGLE MAP

North of Dominical, the two-tier, 65-m (213-ft) Cataratas Nauyaca (Nauyaca Waterfalls) are some of Costa Rica’s most stunning cascades. Tucked among dense rainforest and scenic rolling hills, the two remote waterfalls are especially beautiful to behold as the upper cascade flows freely into the lower. The taller upper waterfall is flanked on both sides by craggy canyon walls. Giant boulders at its base add to the dramatic scene. Water flows from here to the lower waterfall, where it tumbles into a natural pool that’s great for swimming. At this cascade’s base, you’ll find a quiet peaceful space, fresh water, bright-green flora, and few distractions.

bottom tier of Cataratas Nauyaca

Two entrances provide unique ways of reaching and experiencing the falls. Both permit access to the upper and lower falls, albeit from opposite sides of the river. Rivers are public property in Costa Rica, so you can swim at the waterfall regardless of the entrance you choose. You can cross the river while you swim but you cannot explore the private land on the other side.

The original and most popular entrance, generally referred to as the Cataratas Nauyaca entrance (Road 243, 10 km/6.2 mi north of Dominical; tel. 506/2787-0541; www.nauyacawaterfallscostarica.com; 7am-5pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-4pm Sun., last entry 2pm) is on the private property of Don Lulo, who grants hiking access ($10) and offers guided waterfall tours (9am Mon.-Sat.; 4.5 hours; $80 pp; min. age 3 for horseback riding) that provide transportation to the waterfalls one of two ways: in a 4WD truck or via horseback riding. The guided tours include the hiking access fee, lunch, and transportation to the falls, and provide plenty of time for swimming once you reach the falls. Your guide will show you how and where to safely climb and jump off the rocks into the cascade’s refreshing 6-m-deep (20-ft) pool. For your safety, waterfall jumping is only permitted when a tour guide is present at the falls (typically 10am-11am Mon.-Sat.). If you’re a self-guided visitor and you wish to jump off the rocks that edge the falls, schedule your visit accordingly. There are no guided tours through Don Lulo on Sunday; only self-guided tours are available.

If you choose to hike from this entrance, be prepared for a long walk: It’s 6 km (3.7 mi) out to the falls from the office where the trail access fee is paid and another 6 back. If you have your own 4WD vehicle, the falls are just 4 km (2.5 mi) each way from the parking lot, which is 2 km (1.2 mi) down the road from the office. Parking costs $3. The challenging trail is a steep and rolling pressed-gravel road. Be sure to bring sturdy footwear; the dusty route gets muddy and slippery when it rains.

If you’d rather not hike to the falls but you aren’t interested in a guided tour, take Don Lulo’s scheduled round-trip 4WD transportation service (7am, 8am, 9am, 10am, 11am, and noon Mon.-Sat.; $32 pp; includes trail access fee). It’s about a half-hour ride to the falls. Once you arrive, you’ll have two hours to swim before the return trip brings you back to the entrance. Taking the 4WD transportation service, or one of the guided tours, is the way to go if you don’t want to put in much effort to reach the waterfall. All of these options will deliver you within an easy 100-m (109-yd) walk of the lower falls.

A second, newer entrance to Cataratas Nauyaca is at the Nauyaca Waterfalls Nature Park (7 km/4.3 mi south of Road 243, 16.5 km (10.2 mi) north of Dominical; tel. 506/8771-4222; www.nauyacawaterfall.com; 7:30am-4:30pm daily, last entry 2:30pm; $28 adults, $25 ages 3-12, $10 pp for the trolley ride). This off-the-beaten-path entrance is farther from most destinations in the Costa Ballena and is reached via a slow drive on a steep road. As a trade-off, it receives fewer visitors, has lovely nature trails that wind through a lush rainforest setting, and is closer to the falls, ultimately reducing the distance you’ll travel beyond the entrance.

Accessing the waterfall from beyond this entrance is my preferred way to experience Cataratas Nauyaca. All you need to do is arrive at the entrance to the nature park, pay the entrance fee, and hop on one of the trolleys ($10 pp round-trip service) that depart for the falls every 15 minutes. The trolley will take you to a shaded outdoor lounge with restrooms and showers; from there, it’s a 525-m (574-yd) downhill walk through the forest to the upper falls, then a 200-m (219-yd) downhill walk to the lower falls. (If you don’t take the trolley, it’s a steep 2.5-km (1.5-mi) downhill walk on a dusty road to get to the lounge.) Three other short nature trails branch off from the waterfall trails and provide additional opportunities for hiking near the river. When you’re ready to leave, hike up to the lounge and catch the next trolley back to the entrance (the last trolley departs from the lounge at 4pm). If you want flexible arrival and departure times, control over the pace of your visit, and the feeling that you’re discovering a waterfall deep in the rainforest, the unguided waterfall exploration permitted by the Nauyaca Waterfalls Nature Park is the best choice.

To get to Don Lulo’s property from Dominical, take Road 243 northeast for about 10 km (6.2 mi) (a 12-minute drive). You’ll find a small office, well signed for the waterfalls, on the east side of the highway.

To get to the Nauyaca Waterfalls Nature Park from Dominical, take Road 243 northeast for about 16.5 km (10.2 mi). At the community of Tinamaste, turn right onto the pressed-gravel road that’s signed for the nature park, and follow it for 7 km (4.3 mi). The journey takes roughly 40 minutes.

Ojochal

Beach Cave at Playa Ventanas

The coolest thing to see in Ojochal is the natural beach cave at the pretty light-gray Playa Ventanas. If you visit at low tide, you’ll find a narrow passageway that cuts through the craggy rock face, separating the ocean from the beach. The cave’s two entrances (or “windows”) are large enough to walk through, but be mindful of the tide. Water levels rise quickly and eventually engulf the tunnel with raging waves. The cave is neat to see from the outside, especially when it acts like a blowhole and spits out a powerful mist. Do not get caught in the middle at high tide.

Additional caves that decorate the vicinity with textured arches are accessible to kayakers. Dominical’s Pineapple Tours (beside the police station, Dominical; tel. 506/8873-3283; www.pineapplekayaktours.com; 9am-5:30pm daily) runs the seasonal Ventanas Cave Ocean Kayak Tour (tour times tide dependent; Nov.-June; 4 hours; $80 pp; min. age 15) that paddles through the offshore caves, ocean conditions permitting. This tour is for experienced kayakers only.

BEACHES

Dominical

Playa Dominical

Dominical’s principal beach is Playa Dominical. From Río Barú in the north, the beach fronts the entire town for 1 km (0.6 mi), then continues south for another kilometer along undeveloped coastland. Most of the beach’s visitors come to surf, so they don’t mind that the dark-gray sand is often awash with debris and not ideal for sunbathing. And, of course, where there’s great surf, swimming conditions are usually dangerous. Watch yourself in the water, as riptides reign supreme. The volunteer-operated organization Guardavidas de Costa Ballena (www.lifeguardscostaballena.com) strives to have lifeguards on the beach 8am-5pm daily.

SURFING

Dominical

Despite its diminutive size, Dominical is rife with surf schools. You cannot go wrong with most; each has rave-worthy instructors, teaching techniques, and customer service. Nearly all provide surf lessons ($50-95 pp) and surfboard rentals ($10-25 per day), but some provide unique offerings.

Sunset Surf

Main St., 175 m (191 yd) southwest of Hwy. 34; tel. 506/8917-3143; www.sunsetsurfdominical.com; 9am-5pm daily

Sunset Surf has 7-, 10-, and 14-day surf packages ($1,225-2,185 pp) that combine fun freebies with great surf, like a memory card full of photos from your surf sessions, adventure tours to help you balance your time out on the water with nature immersion, and swag from the surf school’s gift shop.

Dominical Surf School

Main St., 650 m (0.4 mi) southwest of Hwy. 34; tel. 506/7099-6826; www.dominicalsurfschool.com; 8am-4pm daily

Founded by a female surfer who was born and raised in Dominical, the Dominical Surf School has an eight-day women’s surf camp ($1,600-1,990 pp) designed specifically for women.

Kalon Surf Resort

3 km (1.9 mi) northwest of Dominical; tel. 506/8721-8137; www.kalonsurf.com

Hidden in the mountains north of town, the Kalon Surf Resort couples surf lessons with luxury for an eight-day, all-inclusive surf resort experience ($3,690-4,990 pp).

CAVE CAMPING

Dominical

Pacific Journeys

2.5 km (1.5 mi) south of Road 243, Tinamaste; tel. 506/8325-9818; www.pacificjourneyscr.com

One of the most extraordinary overnight experiences you can have in Costa Rica is cave camping at the Catarata Diamante (Diamante Waterfall), immediately east of Dominical. Pacific Journeys operates a two-day guided Diamante Journey (8am daily; $135 adults, $68 under age 8), which features a challenging hike (3 km/1.9 mi one-way) to the 183-m (600-ft) waterfall’s highest point and an overnight stay in an open-air rock crevice—nicknamed Casa de Piedra, the Rock House—at the side of the cascade. Also included are exploration of an organic garden and three healthy vegetarian meals. Nature doesn’t get any closer; you’ll fall asleep to the sound of the water’s soothing thunder while tucked away in a natural stone cave under a starry sky. For your convenience and comfort, the cave (which sleeps up to 25) is equipped with toilets, showers, and raised platform beds. Sleeping bags, pads, liners, and pillows are provided. You can even add rappelling down the waterfall ($53 adults, $26 ages 6-7; min. age 6) to your once-in-a-lifetime stay.

FESTIVALS AND EVENTS

Uvita

Festival de Ballenas y Delfines

September is a great time of year to visit, as Bahía hosts the annual multiday Festival de Ballenas y Delfines (Whale and Dolphin Festival; tel. 506/8729-3624). Over two consecutive weekends, local tour companies and independent boat captains provide whale- and dolphin-watching boat tours. Each of these Festival Tours (7am, 9am, 11am, and 1pm; 2 hours; $35 adults, $25 ages 3-9) is planned so that whale and dolphin sightings are nearly guaranteed.

Envision Festival

Uvita’s famed Envision Festival (www.envisionfestival.com) aims to awaken higher levels of consciousness within its attendees. The energetic three-day camping event is a concoction of beats, body painting, yoga, health promotion, dance, meditation, and community collaboration. Rancho La Merced (Hwy. 34, 3 km/1.9 mi northwest of Uvita; tel. 506/2743-8032; www.rancholamerced.com) hosts the festivities each year, typically in February or March.

SHOPPING

Uvita

El Mercado de Bahía Ballena

The Bahía Ballena Market; off the main road to Bahía, 500 m (0.3 mi) east of the fútbol field, Bahía; 8am-2pm Wed., 8am-1pm Sat.

Every Wednesday and Saturday, rain or shine, locals and expats meet at the covered El Mercado de Bahía Ballena, a farmers market, to sell jewelry, beauty products, art, souvenirs, and more. There’s often live music or other entertainment while you shop. Don’t leave without trying one of the traditional Costa Rican baked goods or the artisanal chocolate!

FOOD

Dominical

Café Ensueño

100 m (109 yd) north of the beach at Playa Dominical, 125 m (137 yd) east of Main St.; tel. 506/2102-9883; 7am-8pm daily; $5-8

For lunch, head to Café Ensueño for flavorful, inexpensive Costa Rican food. This spot serves eight different casados plus soups, salads, pastas, hamburgers, and awesome frozen smoothies that look and taste like fruity ice cream.

S Café Mono Congo

Main St., 100 m (109 yd) west of Hwy. 34; tel. 506/6312-8766; www.cafemonocongo.com; 7:30am-5pm daily; $8-12

Start the day off right with one of several sweet and savory breakfast options—many vegetarian and vegan—at Café Mono Congo. Wash it down with coffee, espresso, tea, kombucha, or cold-pressed juice. To satisfy midday hunger, you cannot go wrong with a fresh wrap, panini, burrito, or mixed berry smoothie bowl. Built on the southern bank of Río Barú, the café has a river view that is almost as delightful as the staff is friendly.

Uvita

S Bar & Restaurant Los Laureles

400 m (0.25 mi) northeast of Hwy. 34; tel. 506/8878-6667; 11am-9pm Mon.-Fri.; $7-13

Satisfy hunger with the pub grub at Bar & Restaurant Los Laureles. The quesadillas, nachos, tacos, wings, and chili fries are crowd-pleasers, but the standout is the pulled-pork sandwich. A gluten-free alternative to it ingeniously swaps out the sandwich bun for two large patacones (smashed and fried green plantains). Surrounded by natural flora, the small, open-air establishment has a few tables scattered under a wooden roof with fans. It’s casual and homey, clean and well-kept, and run by a hospitable and appreciative family who provides great customer service.

Las Esferas

100 m (109 yd) north of the national park entrance, Bahía; tel. 506/2743-8135; 7am-9pm daily; $8-11.50

Las Esferas isn’t much to write home about, but the colorful roadside soda (traditional Costa Rican family restaurant) is a convenient place to grab food or drinks while on your way to or from the beach or national park. It serves refreshing fruit smoothies, sandwiches, hamburgers, and lots of seafood. The restaurant is named after the spherical stone artifacts that were discovered in the region (esferas means “spheres”), some of which can be seen on the lot across from the restaurant. Check them out while waiting for your order or after you eat. The house on the lot, which locals call The White House, is the oldest in Bahía.

Sibu

Hwy. 34, 350 m (0.2 mi) southeast of the gas station; tel. 506/2743-8674; 7am-9:30pm daily; $9-16.50

If you’re passing through Uvita, pull over at Sibu. Set in a plaza, this cute contemporary café has a few tables indoors and more on the covered outdoor patio. It serves light fare like bagels, salads, and fancy coffees prepared by skilled baristas, but it’s also full of surprises: Get filling sub sandwiches, personal pizzas, barbecued ribs, steaks, classic ceviche, and craft beer. No matter your craving, Sibu aims to satisfy it.

S Ojochal

GOOGLE MAP

Many first-time visitors are surprised by Ojochal’s greatest contribution to the central Pacific coast: top-notch international cuisine. A cluster of small and casual but polished and revered restaurants puts this remote destination, nicknamed the culinary capital of Costa Rica, on the map.

The food in Ojochal is a delight, both in quality and variety, with first-class Costa Rican favorites, international specialties, and fusion cuisine skillfully prepared and beautifully presented. If you’re based in Ojochal, you’ll have a few great restaurants nearby, but even if you plan to stay elsewhere along the central Pacific coast, Ojochal is worth a trip for lunch or dinner. To enjoy a gourmet meal in the community is to literally taste the destination’s leading contribution to the region, a rich culinary experience that shouldn’t be missed. Prices are comparable to tourist towns around the country. Reservations for all restaurants are advised.

S Exotica

main street in Ojochal, 1 km (0.6 mi) northeast of Hwy. 34; tel. 506/2786-5050; www.restoexotica.wordpress.com; 5pm-9pm Tues.-Sat.; $20-30

There are too many great choices to name them all, but at the top of the list is Exotica. Softly lit with candles and lanterns, the intimate spot is perfect for a date night. Beef, chicken, and fish orders surpass the ordinary and feature flavors and cooking styles from around the world. Even the cocktails are a step up from most. Don’t leave without indulging in the restaurant’s sweet and slightly spicy chocolate cake, the Devil’s Fork.

S Citrus

2 m (6.5 ft) east of Hwy. 34; tel. 506/2786-5175; www.citrusrestaurante.com; noon-9pm Mon.-Sat.; $23-33

Tons of people gush over Citrus, which competes with Exotica for high-quality dishes that span a variety of international cuisines. Though diverse, Citrus’s menu is French-inspired. At its newest location following a few moves, the restaurant offers a fine-dining experience in a quaint and sophisticated courtyard with a laid-back family-friendly vibe. The unique and eclectic decor includes funky artwork, a quirky chandelier, pendant lights, and banquette seating.

S Kua Kua Restaurant

Three Sixty Boutique Hotel; tel. 506/4070-9206; www.hotelthreesixty.com; noon-4pm and 5pm-9pm daily; reservation required; min. age 16; $25-34

With an all-new nine-page menu, the Kua Kua Restaurant is teeming with choices for superior-quality food. Skillfully prepared at this restaurant and infrequently sold elsewhere in Costa Rica are the lamb ribs in mint sauce, the green risotto, the Greek octopus salad, and the banana cake built with sponge cake and flan. On par with the food is Kua Kua’s unparalleled view. Visit during the day or just before sunset so you can take in the sight of an endless ocean and a lush rainforest canopy while dining on the open-air patio perched on the side of a mountain. The restaurant is most easily reached in a 4WD vehicle.

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

Dominical

Fuego Brew Company

Sesame St.; tel. 506/7059-9753; www.fuegobrew.com; 7am-10:30pm daily

A comfortable place to grab drinks in Dominical is at the two-story, alfresco, tree house-like Fuego Brew Company. Draped in a mix of bohemian and beer-themed decor, the upscale restaurant and bar stays true to Dominical’s vibe while bringing a touch of elegance. Nine kinds of craft beer brewed in-house and loads of appetizers are served. The brewery and taproom are on the bottom floor; the restaurant and bar are on top.

Uvita

Al Chile Que Sí

350 m (0.2 mi) northeast of Hwy. 34, 600 m (656 yd) south of Uvita; tel. 506/8801-0555; noon-9pm Tues.-Thurs. and Sun., noon-10pm Fri.-Sat.

At the casual but refined bar Al Chile Que Sí, up the hill on the north side of Highway 34, you can sip a drink while taking in a bird’s-eye view of Parque Nacional Marino Ballena. You’ll have your pick of drink options; there are mezcals, mojitos, and margaritas, plus spritzers and specialty cocktails that feature signature Costa Rican flavors, including maracuyá (passion fruit), tapa dulce (unrefined cane sugar), and hierba buena (spearmint).

ACCOMMODATIONS

Dominical

Cool Vibes Beach Hostel

75 m (246 ft) north of the beach at Playa Dominical, 125 m (137 yd) east of Main. St.; tel. 506/8353-6428; www.hosteldominical.com; dorm $19 pp, private $62 s/d; 2-night min.

If you’re strapped for cash, spend your nights at the Cool Vibes Beach Hostel. Living up to its name, this typical surf hostel is complete with complimentary surfboard racks. It makes up for the bare-bones rooms with above-par facilities, including a cozy and comfy lounge area and a large communal kitchen. Best of all, the place is steps from the beach.

S Mavi Surf

200 m (219 yd) north of the beach at Playa Dominical, 150 m (164 yd) east of Main St.; tel. 506/8585-0604; www.mavi-surf.com; $150 s/d; 2-night min.

The two-floor, motel-style, family-run Mavi Surf provides mid-range accommodations and great value with eight poolside studios. Each has a king bed and a sofa bed, air-conditioning, a well-stocked kitchenette with a fridge, and an outdoor dining area on a semi-private terrace with a hammock. Safe, clean, comfortable, and complete with kind hosts, this homey place doesn’t disappoint.

the family-run Mavi Surf hotel in Dominical

Uvita

Tucan Hotel

off Calle Uvita, 150 m (164 yd) northeast of Hwy. 34; tel. 506/8628-1591; www.tucanhotel.com; dorm $25 s, private room $100 s/d

If you’re a backpacker, reserve a bed in the mixed dorm at the vibrant Tucan Hotel. For the low price, you’ll get a semi-private pod-style sleeping space with a light, locker, and fan (although the dorm has air-conditioning), and a substantial breakfast. The hotel’s inviting courtyard—a common area with comfy seating and hammocks—and proximity to restaurants and Uvita’s main bus stop are additional draws. Private rooms are also offered; some can accommodate up to five guests.

S Bungalows Ballena

275 m (300 yd) north of the national park entrance, Bahía; tel. 506/2743-8543; www.bungalowsballena.com; $145 s/d

Of the five cabin-style bungalows that form Bungalows Ballena, a few sleep two guests and the others can accommodate up to six people, but all provide air-conditioning, a private bathroom, a kitchenette, and a parking space. Lovely manicured gardens and an adorable whale-tail-shaped pool are found around the small property, but the main reason to book a night’s stay isn’t something that’s offered on-site, it’s the convenience of being steps away from the primary entrance to the national park. Few decent and affordable accommodations in Costa Rica offer stays this close to protected parkland.

Ojochal

Three Sixty Boutique Hotel

off Calle Perezoso, 2 km (1.2 mi) southeast of Hwy. 34; tel. 506/2100-9206; www.hotelthreesixty.com; $676 s/d; min. age 16

If you’re headed to affluent-feeling Ojochal, a great way to take in the area’s low-key yet luxurious climate is to stay at the Three Sixty Boutique Hotel. This heavenly hideaway has 12 elegant villas, each outfitted to perfection with a king bed, premium linens, fine furniture, and a wall-to-wall sliding glass door that opens to ocean views. I particularly love that flocks of tropical birds are easily seen at this hotel; I’ve spotted umpteen toucans and parrots hanging out in the trees around the villas. The turndown service, fantastic on-site restaurant, and gorgeous infinity pool are also gratifying.

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

The closest hospital is Hospital de Osa Tomás Casas Casajús (Hwy. 34, just west of Ciudad Cortés; tel. 506/2786-8148; 24 hours daily) in Ciudad Cortés, a 17-km (10.6-mi), 15-minute drive southeast of Ojochal.

Banco de Costa Rica (Centro Comercial Plaza Pacífica, Hwy. 34; tel. 506/2442-7700; 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri.) has an ATM (5am-midnight daily). It’s on Highway 34, just east of the turnoff to Dominical. A few pharmacies, including Farmacia Ibarra (tel. 506/2743-8460; 8am-7pm Mon.-Sat.), and supermarkets huddle around the entrance to Uvita on Highway 34 near Río Uvita. Additional supermarkets can be found in Bahía.

Just northeast of the highway is a police station (off Calle Uvita, 700 m/765 yd northeast of Hwy. 34; tel. 506/2743-8538; 24 hours daily) and the community’s clinic, Ebais Uvita (Calle Uvita, 75 m/246 ft northeast of Hwy. 34; tel. 506/2743-8170; 7am-4pm Mon.-Thurs., 7am-3pm Fri.). There is a gas station on Highway 34, northwest of Río Uvita and the turnoff to the beach.

GETTING THERE

Car

Dominical (a 40-km/25-mi, 30-minute drive southeast of Quepos), Uvita (an 18-km/11-mi, 15-minute drive southeast of Dominical), and Ojochal (a 16-km/10-mi, 15-minute drive southeast of Uvita) each sit along Highway 34.

From downtown San José, there are two ways to reach Dominical, Uvita, and Ojochal by car. The easiest and fastest way is to take the coastal route, which departs west from San José via Highway 27, then travels south and east on Highway 34. To Dominical, the route is a 210-km (130-mi) drive that takes a little over three hours. The alternate trip departs east from San José via Highway 2, climbing steeply over mountains and cutting through clouds at Cerro de la Muerte (Hill of Death). It then descends through the city of San Isidro de El General and enters Dominical via Road 243 from the northeast. To Dominical, this mountain route is a 170-km (105-mi), 3.5-hour drive, but it takes longer when cloud cover slows traffic.

Only the coastal route is taken from Liberia to Dominical, Uvita, and Ojochal. From downtown Liberia, Dominical is a 295-km (185-mi) drive via Highways 1, 23, 27, and 34 that takes just over four hours.

Private Transfer Service

Operating from Quepos, SAMA Transfers (tel. 506/8303-4666; www.samatransfers.com) can bring you to Domincal, Uvita, or Ojochal from nearly anywhere in the country via a private transfer service. Prices range $260-320 from San José, depending on which Costa Ballena community you want to be dropped off at.

Shared Shuttle Service

From the Nicoya Peninsula, the Montezuma-based company Zuma Tours (tel. 506/2642-0024; www.zumatours.net) coordinates shared shuttle services to Dominical and Uvita from San José, as well as shared shuttle-and-boat services from Montezuma, Santa Teresa, and Malpaís, which consist of ground transportation and either a ferry ride or a water-taxi ride. From San José, the cost of the one-way service to Dominical or Uvita is around $65 pp.

Bus

Different public buses service the Dominical, Uvita, and Ojochal areas. Buses travel to Dominical from San José, Quepos, Uvita, and San Isidro de El General and end their run in Dominical next to the office for the Instituto Costarricense de Electricidad (ICE), the government-run electric company. Buses travel to Uvita from San José, Quepos, and Dominical and stop alongside Highway 34, about 100 m (109 yd) east of the turnoff to the community of Uvita. To reach Ojochal by bus, hop on one that travels between Dominical and Ciudad Neily, a city near the border shared with Panama. Be sure to ask the bus driver, “¿Por favor, puede parar en Ojochal?” (“Can you please stop in Ojochal?”); you’ll get dropped off alongside Highway 34 at the entrance to the community.

PARQUE NACIONAL MARINO BALLENA

Ballena National Marine Park; 1.5 km (0.9 mi) southwest of Hwy. 34, Bahía; tel. 506/2786-5392; www.sinac.go.cr; 7am-4pm daily; $6 pp over age 10

The beach-filled Parque Nacional Marino Ballena is home to countless marine animals and plants, including dolphins, sea turtles, octopuses, crabs, sharks, sponges, and mollusks. Coral reef and mangrove ecosystems are protected by the park, which spans 15 km (9.3 mi) of coastline from Uvita south to Punta Piñuela (Piñuela Point) on the outskirts of Ojochal. At this known mating site for humpback whales (ballena means “whale”), it is not uncommon to see pods of the giant mammals breaching offshore, especially December-March, when whales migrate from the north, or July-October, when they migrate from the south. At the park’s beaches, you can sunbathe, swim, and take a stroll along the whale-tail sandbar. You can also explore the park’s protected waters during snorkeling excursions, kayaking trips, and whale- and dolphin-watching boat tours.

Four ranger stations scattered along Highway 34 provide access to the park’s coastal areas. Most visitors come through the Bahía entrance ranger station, in the southwest corner of Bahía at the end of the main street that leads through the community from Highway 34. The Bahía entrance is the closest to the park’s most visited beach, Playa Uvita, and the whale-tail sandbar.

You don’t need a tour guide to enjoy the beaches in this park. Pack plenty of sunscreen; the unshaded beaches are hot. Hold on to your ticket, as you can use it to enter any of the ranger stations during the day.

Whale-Tail Sandbar

Playa Uvita is home to an intriguing natural feature: a sandbar in the shape of a whale’s tail. Also referred to by Ticos as Paso de Moisés (Moses’s Step), the whale-tail sandbar extends 1 km (0.6 mi) into the Pacific Ocean, with its stretch of sand running perpendicular to the shore. Stroll out to the end for a surreal experience. When you’ve gone as far as you can, turn around and take in the view: You’re almost completely surrounded by water. You’ll see layer upon layer of mountains that gleam in multiple shades of green, plus waves that roll in to your left and to your right. For the best experience, visit the beach at low tide. The sandbar disappears into the ocean at other times of day.

Beaches

Playa Uvita

Home to the whale-tail sandbar, Playa Uvita is the most visited beach in the park. It fronts the entirety of Bahía but is separated from the neighborhood by a thin strip of forested parkland that runs parallel to the beach. Particularly picturesque are Playa Uvita’s smooth beige-colored sand, sometimes decorated with shells and sand dollars, and the dense mix of tall and short palms that back the beach. This wide, sun-soaked, bare beach stretches 4 km (2.5 mi) from its easternmost end to its westernmost tip, which forms the end of the whale-tail sandbar. Locals refer to the eastern half of the beach as Playa Colonia.

Access to Playa Uvita is via the park’s main entrance at Bahía. A short two-minute walk on an unnamed 50-m (164-ft) trail departs from the entrance and leads through the forest. Where the trail ends at the sand is the beach’s midpoint, which also represents the divide between Playa Uvita and Playa Colonia.

Snorkeling, Kayaking, and Whale- and Dolphin-Watching

Bahía Aventuras

beside the school, Bahía; tel. 506/2743-8362; www.bahiaaventuras.com; 6:30am-5pm daily

The park’s waters are rich with marinelife. Local tour outfitter Bahía Aventuras runs water-based adventures in the park from the Uvita area. The company dominates tourism in the region with its friendly guides, knowledge of the Costa Ballena, and stellar service. The kayaking tour (tour times tide dependent; 3-4 hours; $85 pp; min. age 6) is a dual kayaking and snorkeling tour that paddles through two parts of the park: the ocean and the mangroves. Snorkel at reefs—keep an eye out for colorful parrotfish, funny-looking pufferfish, and even big fish varieties like marlin—and look for bottlenose dolphins, spinner dolphins, and spotted dolphins playing in the waves while completing the ocean leg of the tour, then enjoy a peaceful float through the mangroves. More popular is the whale- and dolphin-watching boat tour (8:30am and 1pm daily; 3-3.5 hours; $78 adults, $40 ages 3-10; min. age 3), which offers an opportunity to spot a breaching humpback whale or, less likely, an orca. Both tour experiences include the park entrance fee.

Pineapple Tours

beside the police station, Dominical; tel. 506/8873-3283; www.pineapplekayaktours.com; 9am-5:30pm daily

Departing from Dominical, just up the coast from the national park, the Whale Tail Kayak and Snorkel Combo Tour (tour times tide dependent; Nov.-June; 4.5 hours; $80 pp; min. age 7) run by Pineapple Tours is a similar excursion that explores the park’s ocean and mangrove ecosystems, but there’s a twist: The tour of the mangroves is completed on foot. On this tour, you’ll kayak to the whale-tail sandbar and snorkel in the park’s protected waters, then paddle to the shore and take a brief walk through the mangroves to see it up close.

Getting There

The principal entrance to the park is in Bahía, at the end of the main street that leads through the community from Highway 34. Parking is available at the entrance.

Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific

HIGHLIGHTS

MAP: OSA PENINSULA AND THE SOUTHERN PACIFIC

ORIENTATION

PLANNING YOUR TIME

MAP: OSA PENINSULA

Itinerary Ideas

BAHÍA DRAKE IN THREE DAYS

Bahía Drake and Vicinity

SIERPE

BAHÍA DRAKE

RESERVA BIOLÓGICA ISLA DEL CAÑO

S Parque Nacional Corcovado

PLANNING YOUR TIME

LOCAL GUIDES AND TOURS

HIKING

FOOD AND ACCOMMODATIONS

GETTING THERE

Puerto Jiménez and the Golfo Dulce

MAP: PUERTO JIMÉNEZ

SIGHTS

BEACHES

RECREATION

FOOD AND ACCOMMODATIONS

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

GETTING THERE

Highlights

Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.

S Take a boat ride through the Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe to see varied wildlife and ecosystems (click here).

S Search for creepy crawlers after dark in Bahía Drake during the Night Tour with the Bug Lady (click here).

S Snorkel or dive at the Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño (click here).

S Hike and spot wildlife at the biodiverse Parque Nacional Corcovado (click here).

S Take in picture-perfect views from mountainside miradores on the way to Puerto Jiménez (click here).

S Relax at a remote rainforest resort (click here).

S Fly into and out of the Golfo Dulce for spectacular views (click here).

Costa Rica is known for its splendid biodiversity, and no region provides such a concentrated dose as the Osa Peninsula. Way down in the southern part of the country, among pristine primary and secondary forest, silent mountains, and unfrequented coastline, is a rugged wilderness. Sometimes referred to as the crown jewel of Costa Rica, the region is hardly flashy and polished. It’s a rough, trying place that demands long travel days, strenuous hikes, and a tolerance for wet steamy weather, but those brave and headstrong enough to visit will reap incomparable rewards. Wildlife and marinelife, including many of the country’s rarest species, are all around: along the tucked-away trails that lead through protected lands, around the trees that tower over restaurant tables, and in the ocean. A kaleidoscope of ecosystems decorates the landscape and invites up-close exploration.

Lagging in modernization compared with other areas of the country, this region provides off-the-grid getaways—but don’t expect a luxury experience. Many accommodations have outdoor showers (and sometimes full outdoor baths), screened windows or walls, and limited electricity. Bare-bones lodging options cater to back-road backpackers. Several small-scale all-inclusive ecolodges host big spenders. Most of these overlook the Pacific Ocean from Bahía Drake or are at the southern tip of the peninsula near the picturesque Golfo Dulce, which divides the peninsula from the mainland and calms the wild forest-filled region with still blue-green waters.

ORIENTATION

The Osa Peninsula occupies the southwestern corner of Costa Rica. The area is accessed from the central Pacific coast via the Carretera Costanera Sur (Southern Coastal Highway), also known as the Pacífica Fernández Oreamuno or simply Highway 34. Where the peninsula branches off from the mainland, Highway 34 intersects with the Carretera Interamericana (Inter-American Highway), also known as the Pan-American Highway or Highway 2. Highway 2 continues southeast to the east side of the Golfo Dulce and the border at Panama.

The vast protected territory of Parque Nacional Corcovado fans out over most of the peninsula’s interior. The region’s two most visited destinations, Bahía Drake and Puerto Jiménez, sit opposite each other on the northwestern and southeastern sides of the peninsula, respectively. The village of Sierpe, on Road 223 and 15 km (9.3 mi) south of the intersection of Highway 34 and Highway 2, serves as a gateway to Bahía Drake. Road 245, which splits from Highway 2 at the community of Chacarita and curves around the west side of the Golfo Dulce, provides access to Puerto Jiménez.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Travel to and throughout the Osa Peninsula takes time. A full day of exploration often requires two additional travel days—one to get to the region and another to backtrack out of it. Budgeting five days to visit this region allows for three days of touring. Fortunately, many of the modes of travel to and from the region are themselves highlights, such as flying into and out of the Golfo Dulce, stopping at mountainside miradores (lookouts) if you’re driving, and boating through the Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe.

Whether and how you wish to explore the Parque Nacional Corcovado will largely influence the amount of time you’ll need in the region. Day trips are possible, as are multiday expeditions. Most other attractions require no longer than a day to complete (including excursions to the Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño), if not only a few hours (like the Night Tour with the Bug Lady). If your purpose for trekking all the way down to the southernmost corner of Costa Rica is to escape to a remote rainforest resort, you’ll have your pick of properties, and you can stay as long as you want.

If your trip itinerary cannot accommodate a few days spent in this remote region, but you’re itching to see its top two attractions—Parque Nacional Corcovado and Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño—plan to spend additional time in the central Pacific region. A few day tours to the park and to the reserve depart from Manuel Antonio and the Costa Ballena in that region, and although those tours are typically more expensive and require longer boat rides than the park and reserve tours that are accessed from destinations on the Osa Peninsula, they make it possible to see the highlights you might otherwise miss.

Weather and Transportation

December-April is considered the dry season and May-November the wet season. Annual rainfall amounts are high, so it’s more accurate to describe these periods as the sunny-with-sporadic-rain season and the soaked season. Temperatures average 24-26°C (75-79°F). Humid, densely forested areas can feel like saunas.

Long drives, even longer bus rides, and combined ground and boat or air travel make the region tricky to get around. If you stick to the main roads (Hwy. 34, Hwy. 2, Road 223, and Road 245 as far south as Puerto Jiménez), you won’t need a 4WD vehicle. With so much rain in the region, dirt roads quickly become slippery messes and may become impassable due to flooding and swollen river crossings. Even bus transportation isn’t guaranteed in some areas. Boats and planes provide additional means of getting to, from, and throughout the region.

Itinerary Ideas

BAHÍA DRAKE IN THREE DAYS

This three-day itinerary provides an introduction to the remote Osa Peninsula and hits the area’s highlights by way of day tours taken from Bahía Drake.

Day 1

1 Embark on a guided one-day excursion to the biodiverse Parque Nacional Corcovado from Agujitas, Bahía Drake’s bayfront community. Ride the tour boat that travels from Agujitas to the park’s Sirena Sector, the heart of the park, in the early morning.

2 Alongside your tour guide, spend a few hours traversing the sector’s nature trails in search of birds and other wildlife, including magnificent tapirs. Lunch and return transportation to Bahía Drake by boat in the early afternoon is included with most park tours.

3 If you don’t feel the need to rest after the hike, take the remainder of the day to explore Agujitas on foot and lay out on Playa Colorada. If you’re still in Agujitas at dinnertime, grab a quesadilla at the DinerCraft Bar & Restaurant.

Day 2

1 Take a snorkeling or diving tour from Agujitas to Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño, a protected island encircled by marinelife. Keep an eye out for breaching whales during the boat ride to the island.

2 Search for colorful fish, turtles, rays, and sharks, among other extraordinary species, at the island’s notable dive sites. Most island tours include lunch and boat transportation back to Agujitas.

3 For dinner, treat yourself to the bay area’s best food at the Kalaluna Bistro. Despite serving gourmet cuisine, the restaurant is casual and a good place to relax after a long day out on the water.

Day 3

1 Set out on a self-guided hike along the Sendero Costero from the trailhead near Agujitas. Travel at your own pace and stop whenever you like to admire the area’s uninhabited landscape and meandering fauna; monkeys, coatis, and agoutis are common sights. Restaurants along the trail are practically nonexistent, so pack a lunch for the day.

2 Swim or sunbathe at empty beaches encountered along the trail, like Playa Cocalito or the more far-flung Playa San Josecito, and eat your packed lunch at whichever beach you’re at when hunger strikes. Explore as much or as little of the 14-km (8.7-mi) out-and-back trail as you want during the afternoon, but be sure to turn around early enough in the day to make it back to the trailhead before nightfall (6pm).

3 Near the trailhead, fill up on pork ribs or a different meaty main for dinner at Claudio’s Grill before joining the Night Tour with the Bug Lady at 7:30pm to discover how the forest awakens after dark. Conveniently, the meeting place for the night tour is steps away from the grill.

Bahía Drake and Vicinity

It’s possible to get a sense of the Osa Peninsula without traveling all that far south by visiting the rainforest-backed region named after its largest body of water, Bahía Drake (Drake Bay), and taking day trips from there to the region’s top attractions: Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño and a few sectors belonging to Parque Nacional Corcovado. The tiny riverside village of Sierpe, near palm plantations, archaeological sites, and protected wetlands, serves as the bay area’s most frequented access point.

SIERPE

Sierpe is the peninsula’s gateway to Bahía Drake. It’s quiet, save for the lively and entertaining boatmen who gather around the south-facing docks and tout all kinds of sales, from area tours to boat rides to pipa fría (cold coconut water). It is a pleasant place you’ll pass through on your way to big adventure.

Road 223 provides the only way to reach Sierpe by car. It enters the village from the north and ends at the village’s south end, near the waterfront.

Sights

S Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe

GOOGLE MAP

Térraba-Sierpe National Wetlands; www.sinac.go.cr

Where the Osa Peninsula departs from the mainland is Costa Rica’s Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe (Térraba-Sierpe National Wetlands). The protected 66,000-acre site is a mix of woodlands, marshy swamps, mangroves, and rivers, most notably Río Sierpe, which flows south of Sierpe and connects wetlands on the east and west sides of the village, and Río Térraba, which feeds the wetlands from the north. Birds, fish, crocodiles, and other reptiles, including nonvenomous boa constrictors, reside among remote estuaries and lagoons.

Organized tours visit the wetlands from Sierpe and Bahía Drake on the Osa Peninsula, and Uvita in the central Pacific region. Tour operators running similar slow-paced boat rides through the wetlands are La Perla del Sur (tel. 506/2788-1082; www.laperladelsur.cr), whose River and Mangrove Tour (3 hours; $50 adults, $25 ages 7-12) runs from Sierpe and Bahía Drake, and Bahía Aventuras (tel. 506/2743-8362; www.bahiaaventuras.com), whose Mangrove & Wildlife Tour (3 hours; $85 adults, $40 under age 10) departs from Uvita. Both guided excursions provide a rare opportunity to quietly explore the wetlands’ innermost channels in search of resident wildlife and marinelife. Tour guides narrate the trip and point out the different types of ecosystems you’ll see along the way and their significance. Reservations are required by both tour operators. Tour start times vary according to the tide.

If you’re merely passing through Sierpe on your way to Bahía Drake and you don’t have time to tour the wetlands, you can see them at a distance during the one-hour boat transfer that commutes between Bahía Drake and Sierpe. The first half hour of the boat ride motors around Río Sierpe and passes by several of the wetland ecosystems. Tall thin trees, sticklike mangrove root systems, wild brush, occasional ferns and palms, and minute leafy islets will fill your gaze as you travel downriver. Take mental pictures; the boat ride makes it tricky to capture still photographs. Boats depart for Bahía Drake twice daily (11:30am and 4pm) from the main dock in Sierpe, at the south end of the village in front of Restaurante Donde Jorge (south of Road 223). La Perla del Sur (tel. 506/2788-1082; www.laperladelsur.cr) runs the boat transfer service ($20-35 pp, depending on where you’re headed in Bahía Drake); reservations are not required.

Sitio Museo Finca 6

400 m (0.25 mi) northeast of Road 223, 6 km (3.7 mi) north of Sierpe; tel. 506/2211-5847; www.diquis.go.cr; 8am-2pm Tues.-Sun.; $7 adults, $5 under age 12; credit card payment only

If you have an interest in pre-Columbian history, particularly Indigenous cultures, don’t miss Sitio Museo Finca 6. The Finca 6 project is a small modern museum and an outdoor collection of archaeological artifacts that pay homage to Costa Rica’s pre-Columbian Diquís culture. The group’s mysterious centuries-old stone spheres dot the region; to date 300 have been discovered. I recommend visiting the museum first; the cultural theory presented will help you understand and better appreciate the sights in the field, including grassy areas adorned with mounds on which housing once stood and authentic Diquís spheres. You can tour the museum and wander around the grounds during a self-guided visit. The grounds, on a deserted banana plantation, are flat and easy to explore within an hour. Take a moment to examine the stones at close range. No one can say with certainty how the sculptures were made, but they come within millimeters of being perfect spheres.

Food and Accommodations

S Restaurante Donde Jorge

just south of Road 223; tel. 506/2788-1082; 6:30am-9pm daily; $6-12

I’ve never left disappointed from Restaurante Donde Jorge. The flavorful but not too oily arroz con vegetales (rice with vegetables) is my go-to dish. Other large helpings that sell for a reasonable price include fish plates and fast food like hamburgers and sandwiches. Enjoy your pick at the open-air restaurant as you watch local captains ready their boats by the riverbank.

Hotel Sierpe River

formerly Hotel Oleaje Sereno, just south of Road 223; tel. 506/2788-1082; $58 s/d

An early-morning boat departure may require a night’s stay in Sierpe. The two-story motel-style Hotel Sierpe River has 10 economy-priced, economy-quality rooms that face the street and hotel parking lot; overnight parking is $6. Each room is equipped with air-conditioning, and first-floor rooms have barred windows. Guests have a complimentary breakfast at Restaurante Donde Jorge.

Restaurante Donde Jorge and Hotel Sierpe River share a riverfront location and an owner, who also runs the tour and transportation service provider La Perla del Sur (tel. 506/2788-1082; www.laperladelsur.cr; 6:30am-9pm daily). To keep things simple, you can eat, stay overnight, and arrange area tours or boat transportation all in the same place.

Information and Services

Sierpe has a police station (on the riverfront; tel. 506/2788-1439; 24 hours daily); a small clinic called Ebais Sierpe (Road 223, on entering Sierpe; tel. 506/2788-1189; 7am-3pm Mon.-Fri.); and a couple of supermarkets. The closest bank and ATM are in the town of Palmar, a 15-km (9.3-mi), 15-minute drive north of Sierpe. There is no gas station in Sierpe, so be sure to fuel up in Palmar before turning onto Road 223.

Getting There

Via the coastal route (Hwy. 27, Hwy. 34, and Road 223), Sierpe is a 285-km (175-mi) drive southeast from downtown San José that takes a little over four hours. Via the mountain route (Hwy. 2, Road 243, Hwy. 34, and Road 223), it’s a 245-km (152-mi) drive southeast from downtown San José that takes nearly five hours. From downtown Liberia, Sierpe is a 370-km (230-mi) drive southeast via Highways 1, 23, 27, and 34 and Road 223 that takes a little over five hours.

To get to Sierpe from Bahía Drake, catch one of the public boats that depart from Playa Colorada twice daily (7am and 2pm). Area accommodations can arrange boat pickups at or near their property if needed. Expect to pay $20-25 pp for transport from the main beach in Bahía Drake and upward of $35 pp for transport from hotels down the coast.

If you’d rather use a private transfer service to get to Sierpe, Costa Rica Shuttle (tel. 506/4000-1040; www.costaricashuttle.com), based in the Central Valley, and SAMA Transfers (tel. 506/8303-4666; www.samatransfers.com), operating from the central Pacific region, offer the service from San José; prices average $360.

Alternatively, public buses travel to Sierpe from San José.

BAHÍA DRAKE

Bahía Drake is the most touristy area in the region, but you won’t feel like you’ve stationed yourself in an overly popular place when you visit. Development, in the form of low-key establishments and rustic ecolodges, is spread out along 25 km (15.5 mi) of coastline between Río Sierpe (to the north) and the northwestern boundary of Parque Nacional Corcovado (to the south). Unless you travel by boat along the coast in search of buildings that peek through the forest, you’ll assume they don’t exist, which is exactly why many travelers adore this area. It offers seclusion and sublime privacy as well as popular guided excursions.

Locals reside around the sparse coastal village of Agujitas, which has an air of nonchalance. It’s close to the center of the Bahía Drake region and the south end of the namesake bay. The village sits atop a hill just south of Playa Colorada, the area’s principal beach, where boats transport visitors in and out of the area. The unnamed road that travels up the hill at the east end of the beach, then parallels the coast for 200 m (219 yd) before descending into the west end of the beach, is the main road in Agujitas. It provides access to the village’s small collection of informal restaurants and lodgings.

Many travelers favor the waterfront accommodations southwest of the village along the coast. Stays at many of these spots are sold as all-inclusive two- or three-night packages that include a private room and three daily meals (dining options outside Agujitas are scarce). In some cases, local tours and round-trip boat transportation from Sierpe—or combined ground and boat transportation from other locations, such as San José—are included.

Beaches

Playa Cocalito

Less than a half-hour’s walk down the coast from the south end of Playa Colorada is Playa Cocalito, Bahía Drake’s most accessible swimming beach. Playa Cocalito has crystalline (albeit sometimes wave-filled) waters that are great for wading. The short and narrow beach is also quiet and just barely escapes Bahía Drake’s lush forest, where monkeys can sometimes be seen playing in the trees that tower over the sand.

Playa San Josecito

The prettiest beach in the area is remote Playa San Josecito, with a castaway feel. It is backed by a tall hill, has bright-green palms spread across light gray-tinged sand, and features rocky islets near the shore. The calm waters between the islets and the sand are great for snorkeling; masks and fins ($5) can be rented from the Life for Life Hostel (tel. 506/8717-5393; www.lifeforlifehosteldrakebay.com), a 15-minute walk down the coast beyond the beach. Playa San Josecito can get busy midday, as the beach is a popular spot to enjoy a picnic lunch.

It’s a 7-km (4.3-mi), 2.5-hour hike to Playa San Josecito from Agujitas along the Sendero Costero. Alternately, you can reach Playa San Josecito via a 15-minute boat ride from Playa Colorada. Boats moored in Bahía Drake depart each morning to transport travelers on guided day tours to Parque Nacional Corcovado and Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño; when there’s a seat to spare, you can hitch a ride to Playa San Josecito on one of these boats for $15-20 pp. During the high season, when there may not be extra seats available, or during the low season, when fewer boats operate collective services, you can hire a private boat ($100 per group) to take you to the beach. Boat transportation can be arranged through Henar Cespedes, who operates the hotel and tourist information center Osa Tucán (25 m/82 ft south of Mar y Bosque; tel. 506/7270-2872) in Agujitas.

Local Guides and Tours

S The Night Tour with the Bug Lady

tel. 506/8701-7356; www.thenighttour.com; 7:30pm daily; 2.5-3 hours; $50 pp; min. age 8

The night tour run by biologist Tracie Stice, also known as the Bug Lady, and photographer and naturalist guide Gianfranco Gómez is the best of its kind in the region. The duo leads a leisurely hike through the dark night of Bahía Drake’s biodiverse forest on a search for rare and photogenic insects, frogs, spiders, snakes, bats, and nocturnal animals. Stice and Gómez relate facts and stories that they’ve collected over decades of exploration and offer witty commentary, elevating the tour experience.

Reservations are required. Contact Stice and Gómez directly to avoid accidentally booking a different night tour through an area operator or hotel. This tour should be avoided if you’re scared of the dark or if you cringe at the thought of creepy crawlers. If you’re staying in Agujitas, the tour meeting place is the hotel Jinetes de Osa (at the west end of Playa Colorada). Pickups at hotels near Jinetes de Osa can also be arranged. Have Stice and Gómez confirm your meeting place and time when you book your tour. Bring a high-quality headlamp with you, not only to see the unique finds during the tour but to assist you in getting to and from the meeting place; you’ll need it to navigate the route after dark. Closed-toe footwear is mandatory.

Hiking

Sendero Costero

Coastal Trail; 14 km (8.7 mi) one-way; 5.5-6.5 hours; moderate

The 14-km (8.7-mi) Sendero Costero connects the village of Agujitas to the San Pedrillo ranger station in Parque Nacional Corcovado. A great way to spend a free day in Bahía Drake is to explore the first 7 km (4.3 mi) of this trail, which introduces hikers to the area’s wild forest and some of its active wildlife, mainly monkeys, coatis, and agoutis. The trail begins near Agujitas and offers a 2.5-hour forested hike alongside the Pacific Ocean to Playa San Josecito. The trailhead, marked by a rickety wood suspension bridge, is at the west end of Playa Colorada, a 20-minute walk from Agujitas center.

You’ll pass two great swimming beaches during the hike. Roughly 1.5 km (0.9 mi) beyond the trailhead, after a second hanging bridge (over the teal Río Agujitas) and the entrance to La Paloma Lodge, is Playa Cocalito. (The beach is at the bottom of a signed concrete staircase that branches off from the Sendero Costero.) Continue south on the trail for 5.5 km (3.4 mi), past more than 20 other small sandy spots that arc around the jagged coast, and you’ll arrive at Playa San Josecito. It’s possible to continue hiking south on the Sendero Costero—it’s an additional 7 km (4.3 mi) (3-4 hours) to the San Pedrillo ranger station; the last few kilometers of the stretch should not be navigated without a guide—but most hikers turn around at Playa San Josecito to return to Agujitas.

Food

Gaby’s Food Truck

on Playa Colorada; tel. 506/8410-3610; 5am-5pm daily; $2-5

If you’re setting off on an early-morning adventure from Agujitas, one of the few places that’s open is Gaby’s Food Truck. The truck is parked on the beach, which serves as the meeting place for several tours. For breakfast, there are sandwiches and empanadas, plus coffee and tea. Later in the day, you can get burgers, hot dogs, and fries.

DinerCraft Bar & Restaurant

Hotel Margarita; 250 m (273 yd) south of the main road in Agujitas; tel. 506/7176-5965; 6am-9am and 12:30pm-8:30pm daily; $8-15

There aren’t many restaurants in Agujitas proper, up the hill behind the beach. But if hunger strikes when you’re roaming around the village, stop in at the trendy DinerCraft Bar & Restaurant. The whiteboard menu lists a few meat, fish, seafood, and vegetarian options; my favorite is the loaded quesadillas. Seating is limited at the small restaurant, so you may need to take your order to go.

Claudio’s Grill

at Jinetes de Osa on the Sendero Costero; 200 m (219 yd) west of Playa Colorada; tel. 506/6260-2974; 12:30pm-8pm daily; $12-22

Following a move to the waterfront space that previously housed the beloved Kalaluna Bistro, Claudio’s Grill could easily fall short of the high-quality dining experience provided by its predecessor, but instead it nearly matches it. The skillfully prepared dishes featuring protein-heavy mains drenched in delicious sauces (think pork ribs in passion fruit, tenderloin in chimichurri, and tuna in ginger) are enough of a reason to go, but the unobstructed view of the bay provides an additional incentive.

S Kalaluna Bistro

on Playa Colorada, beside the school; tel. 506/6030-2615; www.kalalunabistro.com; noon-8pm daily; $16-26

You might not expect gourmet food to be served in no-frills Bahía Drake, but you can find it at the Kalaluna Bistro, an ordinary-looking restaurant that creates exquisite appetizers and mains. With great service and fusion cuisine that slants toward Italian, plus drinks that put a twist on much-loved classics, like the papaya and mango coladas that do away with pineapple, this place is a true gem. Thanks to a recent move off the Sendero Costero and closer to Agujitas—but still with a view of the bay—the bistro and its rave-worthy food is now easier to access. Reservations are recommended.

Accommodations

S Life for Life Hostel

7.5 km (4.6 mi) into the Sendero Costero; tel. 506/8717-5393; www.lifeforlifehosteldrakebay.com; dorm $15 pp, private $45 s, $90 d

Escape to a distant part of the Osa Peninsula—on the Sendero Costero but beyond where most hikers turn around to return to Bahía Drake—and spend time with Ricardo (nicknamed “Clavito”), a longtime local and passionate naturalist. Ricardo owns the recently reconfigured Life for Life Hostel, which offers two modest lodging options: private cabins and open-air dorms with cots and hammocks. Stays in either room type buy protection for marine species through the Life for Life Sea Turtle Conservation Project that Ricardo operates at Punta Río Claro, a half-hour walk up the coast from the hostel. Ricardo also runs nature tours ($10-40 pp) that explore parts of the remote area that are rarely seen.

Las Caletas Lodge

2.3 km (1.4 mi) into the Sendero Costero; tel. 506/8826-1460; www.caletaslodgedrake.com; $250 s/d, semi-inclusive; 2-night min.

One of the more affordable superior lodging options along the Sendero Costero is the eight-room Las Caletas Lodge, which accommodates guests in one- and two-story wooden huts that are clean and lightly furnished but without air-conditioning. Although not luxurious in the traditional sense, the lodge is supremely quiet, secluded, and a great place for impromptu bird-watching and wildlife-viewing, inviting rich and rewarding experiences of the natural kind. The property is semi-inclusive; breakfast and dinner are included in the nightly rate, but lunch and guided tours are not.

Hotel Margarita

250 m (273 yd) south of the main road in Agujitas; tel. 506/6176-3735; $262 s/d; 2-night min.

The best place to stay in Agujitas proper is Hotel Margarita. This small superior-quality hotel stands out with its immaculate rooms (sleep 1-5) that have sparkling porcelain floors, comfortable leather chaise longue chairs, air-conditioning, and forest-facing balconies. The baths have very hot water, the pool is well-kept and inviting, and parking is free. Hotel Margarita makes a great base for exploring Agujitas or the Sendero Costero on foot or for catching guided tours that depart from Playa Colorada, less than a 10-minute walk down the road.

Águila de Osa

500 m (0.3 mi) into the Sendero Costero; tel. 506/8840-2929; www.aguiladeosa.com; $596 s/d, all-inclusive

The 13-room Águila de Osa is tucked away from the ocean by the mouth of Río Agujitas and feels like a sequestered rainforest oasis. Rooms in the rustic lodge feature balconies and are constructed with fine Costa Rican woods; the furniture is made of wood too. Screened windows welcome comfortable tropical breezes. Three daily meals plus appetizers at the hotel’s open-air restaurant above the quiet river are included in the hotel’s rates, as is the use of single and double kayaks.

S La Paloma Lodge

900 m (984 yd) into the Sendero Costero; tel. 506/2775-1684; www.lapalomalodge.com; 3-night package $1,400-1,790 adults, $980-1,253 under age 13, all-inclusive; 3-night min.

The 11 clifftop rooms and bungalow-style ranchos of La Paloma Lodge are utterly relaxing and exquisitely furnished. Each offers a touch of luxury with orthopedic beds, air-conditioning, in-room seating areas, gleaming hardwood floors, and wall-to-wall windows that take in the area’s lush surroundings and ocean views. The hotel’s superb service is second to none in the area. Guided tours of Parque Nacional Corcovado’s San Pedrillo Sector and the Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño are included in the package rates.

Information and Services

Agujitas has a police station (just south of Playa Colorada; tel. 506/2775-0300; 24 hours daily), a clinic named Ebais Bahía Drake (just south of Playa Colorada; tel. 506/2775-1975; 7am-5pm Mon. and Wed.-Fri.), a mini pharmacy called Macrobiótica Hidalgo (on the main road in Agujitas; tel. 506/2222-5389; 9am-7pm Mon.-Fri., 9am-6pm Sat.), and a few supermarkets. There are no banks or ATMs in Bahía Drake, so bring as much cash to the area as you plan to spend, plus a little extra in case of unforeseen expenses.

Getting There

Bahía Drake is one of the few destinations in Costa Rica where visitors don’t typically arrive in a vehicle. For years, the unnamed road that connects Agujitas to the Golfo Dulce through the village of Rancho Quemado was often impassable due to the region’s heavy rains. The 2019 construction of a bridge created a route to Bahía Drake over land that avoids river crossings. Still, having a 4WD vehicle is recommended if you decide to drive, especially during the wet season. You’ll appreciate the added traction when maneuvering the road’s short but steep inclines and declines, not to mention peace of mind if you travel during a particularly rainy period, when there’s the potential for shallow streams to spill over into roads. The improved route has only just begun to attract visitors to the bay area by car. Agujitas is predominantly vacant of vehicles, and boat transportation remains the most popular method of travel to and from Bahía Drake.

Boat

Most visitors to Bahía Drake arrive via a one-hour boat ride from Sierpe. The roughly 40-km (25-mi) journey, which begins calmly along Río Sierpe and gradually increases in speed to battle the raging ocean at the river’s mouth, can be fun or frightful, depending on the traveler. Climb aboard if you’re up for an exhilarating ride. Skip the experience if you have a fear of small boats or the open ocean. Boats should be equipped with life jackets—don’t board one that isn’t.

Public boats offer drop-offs at hotels around Bahía Drake and at Playa Colorada; choose the latter if you’re headed to Agujitas. Boats depart twice daily (11:30am and 4pm) from the main dock in Sierpe, at the south end of the village in front of Restaurante Donde Jorge (south of Road 223). The restaurant is owned by local tour operator La Perla del Sur (tel. 506/2788-1082; www.laperladelsur.cr; 6:30am-9pm daily), one of few Sierpe-based companies to offer boat service to Bahía Drake. La Perla is my preference for providers because of their skillful captains and coordinated on-time service.

Expect to pay $20-25 pp for transport to Playa Colorada or $10-15 more if you’re headed to a hotel around the bay. Reservations are not required. Wet landings, which require you to climb off the boat a short distance from the shore and wade through water toward the beach, are common. Wear shorts or quick-dry pants and secure footwear in preparation for this. If you drive yourself to Sierpe, you can leave your vehicle in the parking lot at La Perla del Sur ($6 per night). Be sure to lock the doors and remove any valuables.

Many of the area lodgings will handle boat travel arrangements and costs. Some lodgings use private docks, boats, and captains. Be sure to confirm the departure location, time, and the boat captain’s contact information with your chosen hotel. Regardless of whether you travel via public or private boat, verify whether there’s a luggage weight limit. Some vessels permit only 25 pounds of luggage per passenger.

Air

The quickest way to get to Bahía Drake is to fly. The Aeropuerto Bahía Drake (Bahía Drake Airport, DRK) is 6 km (3.7 mi) north of Agujitas, a 15-minute drive. SANSA Airlines (tel. 506/2290-4100; www.flysansa.com) offers flights to Bahía Drake from San José.

Car

There are two ways to get to Agujitas from San José. Via the coastal route (Hwy. 27, Hwy. 34, Hwy. 2, Road 245, and the unnamed road that leads to Agujitas), Bahía Drake is a 375-km (235-mi) drive southeast from downtown San José that takes roughly 6.5 hours. Via the mountain route, which begins on Highway 2, continues to Highway 34 (via Road 243), returns to Highway 2, follows Road 245, and ends on the unnamed road that leads to Agujitas, it’s a 335-km (210-mi), 7-hour drive southeast from downtown San José.

From downtown Liberia, Agujitas is a 460-km (285-mi), 8-hour drive southeast via Highways 1, 23, 27, 34, and 2, Road 245, and the unnamed road that leads to Agujitas.

The unnamed road that leads to Agujitas is a hilly, 31-km (19-mi), pressed-gravel route that’s often caked in dirt and dust. It begins at the south end of the hamlet of Rincón, 45 km (28 mi) south of Chacarita, and travels west across an undeveloped part of the peninsula. After 15 km (9.3 mi), it passes through the remote village of Rancho Quemado. Nine km (5.6 mi) beyond the village is a fork in the road; both routes lead to Agujitas, but only the route to the left circumvents river crossings. Unless you’re headed to the airport, which is along the route to the right, take the route to the left.

There is no gas station in Agujitas. The closest gas station is on Road 245 in La Palma, a village 6 km (3.7 mi) south of the turnoff for the unnamed road that leads to Agujitas, near the hamlet of Rincón. Before turning onto the unnamed road, make sure you have enough fuel to get to Agujitas and back; from the turnoff to Agujitas and from Agujitas to the gas station is roughly a 40-km (25-mi) journey.

Visitors without a rental vehicle can catch a ride on the Toyota Coaster vehicle operating as the local colectivo that commutes between Agujitas and La Palma (from La Palma: 11:30am and 4pm Mon.-Sat.; 2 hours; $3; from Agujitas: 4am and 1pm Mon.-Sat.; 2 hours; $3). La Palma can be reached by hopping on any bus to or from Puerto Jiménez; buses travel through La Palma. Be aware that if you’re staying at a lodging outside Agujitas, you’ll likely need to hitch a boat ride from Playa Colorada to your hotel after the colectivo drops you off in the village.

Getting Around

Rough terrain in the area makes cycling around Bahía Drake a chore. Walking is the primary mode of getting around the village. Boat transportation, best arranged through your chosen lodging, is the most common form of transport between Agujitas and areas of interest around the bay.

RESERVA BIOLÓGICA ISLA DEL CAÑO

GOOGLE MAP

Caño Island Biological Reserve; tel. 506/8946-7134; www.sinac.go.cr; 8am-3pm daily; $15 adults, $5 ages 2-12

About 24 km (15 mi) off the coast of Bahía Drake is the tiny 800-acre rainforest-filled island known as the Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño. Abundant marinelife congregates in the 15,000 acres of protected waters that surround the reserve and its palm-fringed beaches. Once a pre-Columbian burial ground, the uninhabited island remains largely undeveloped, except for a small ranger station on its northwest side that welcomes visitors on organized day tours. The region’s best snorkeling and scuba diving experiences take place at the reserve. Humpback whales frequent the area December-March and July-October. There’s a good chance you’ll see one playing in the waves while you’re boating to and from the island.

S Snorkeling and Diving

Shallow inlets and offshore reefs are great spots for snorkeling, and year-round good visibility in the area makes it easy to spot sharks, rays, eels, octopuses, sea turtles, and dolphins during open-water dives. The reserve has several dive sites, some with paradisiacal sandy bottoms. You can swim through an arch at El Arco; encounter white-tip sharks at the Cueva del Tiburón, Paraíso, and El Barco (the site of a washed-away shipwreck); and spot colorful coral at the Coral Gardens. Discuss the various options with your chosen tour provider when you book. Visibility is optimal, at 10-15 m (33-49 ft), December-April. Dive depths range 10-30 m (33-98 ft).

Snorkeling and scuba diving tours to the reserve are most commonly operated out of Bahía Drake and Sierpe on the Osa Peninsula, and Uvita in the central Pacific region. From Bahía Drake, tour opportunities are seemingly endless, offered by hotels and tour outfitters alike. Several of the all-inclusive packages sold by Bahía Drake hotels automatically include a guided tour of the reserve, but if yours does not, or you didn’t purchase an all-inclusive package, expect to pay around $95-110 pp for a snorkel tour or $145-160 pp for a two-tank dive. Both experiences typically last between six and eight hours, begin around 7am-7:30am, and include time to lounge on a beach. The reserve enforces strict visitor and boat anchor capacities; reservations for tours are required.

La Perla del Sur

just south of Road 223, Sierpe; tel. 506/2788-1082; www.laperladelsur.cr; 6:30am-9pm daily

La Perla del Sur runs snorkeling and diving tours (8am daily; 8 hours; $160 pp for 2 tanks, snorkeling $100 pp) as day trips out of Sierpe. If you only have an interest in visiting the reserve, not Bahía Drake, these tours can save you the time and expense of spending a night or two in the bay area.

Bahía Aventuras

beside the school, Bahía; tel. 506/2743-8362; www.bahiaaventuras.com; 6:30am-5pm daily

Up the coast in Uvita, Bahía Aventuras runs a snorkeling tour (7:30am daily; 6-7 hours; $150 adults, $95 ages 6-9; min. age 6) to the reserve.

Costa Rica Dive & Surf

200 m (219 yd) north of the national park entrance, Bahía; tel. 506/8478-4848; www.costaricadiveandsurf.com; 6:30am-5pm daily

Operating from Bahía, a neighborhood in Uvita, Costa Rica Dive & Surf visits the reserve on a full-day scuba diving excursion (7am daily; 7-8 hours; $190 pp for 2 tanks, snorkeling $139 pp). This tour, as well as the snorkeling tour operated by Bahía Aventuras, visits the reserve direct from Costa Rica’s central Pacific region, avoiding the need to spend a night or two on the Osa Peninsula. Choose one of these tours only if you have no interest in exploring Bahía Drake but you want to snorkel or dive at the reserve.

Getting There

The reserve is accessible by boat only. Guided snorkeling and scuba diving excursions depart from and return to Bahía Drake, Sierpe, and Uvita.

S Parque Nacional Corcovado

GOOGLE MAP

TOP EXPERIENCE

Extraordinary biodiversity, vast primary forest, dense vegetation, and trails that go deep into remote wilderness make Parque Nacional Corcovado (Corcovado National Park; tel. 506/2735-5036; www.sinac.go.cr; 7am-4pm daily all sectors but the Sirena Sector, 7am-4pm daily Nov.-Sept. Sirena Sector; by guided tour only; $15 adults, $5 ages 2-12) a bucket-list experience for any big-hike adventurer or avid nature lover. Covering over 100,000 acres, the protected land and marine area occupies much of the Osa Peninsula’s inland region as well as a 40-km (25-mi) stretch of its western coastline. It is the top attraction in Costa Rica’s south end, a jungle gym of ecosystems; visits often lead to surprise encounters with some of the rarest wildlife species you can see in the country—and the world. Sea turtles nest on the shores of the park’s perimeter. Bull sharks and crocodiles invade the area’s rivers and swamps. Nearly 400 species of birds fill the forest’s canopy. More than 70 varieties of reptiles, 45 types of amphibians, and a whopping 8,000 species of insects inhabit the park. Tapirs, monkeys, peccaries, anteaters, agoutis, ever-elusive jungle cats, and other mammals roam freely. The raw uncaged Corcovado welcomes you into a host of natural habitats.

The park has six sectors. The most visited are the San Pedrillo Sector (on the northwest side of the park near Bahía Drake), the La Leona Sector (on the southwest side of the park near Carate), and the Sirena Sector (on the west side of the park between the San Pedrillo and La Leona ranger stations). The Los Patos Sector (on the northeast side of the park near La Palma) and the El Tigre Sector (on the east side of the park near Puerto Jiménez), where you’ll find the park’s most difficult hiking trails, are less frequented. The Los Planes Sector (on the north side of the park near Bahía Drake) is closed to the public indefinitely.

Visits to the El Tigre Sector are handled separately and best arranged through the nonprofit Corcovado el Tigre (formerly the Asociación de Conservación de Dos Brazos de Río Tigre; in the village of Dos Brazos; tel. 506/8691-4545; www.corcovadoeltigre.com; 7am-6pm daily).

PLANNING YOUR TIME

It can be tough to choose a Corcovado experience. With one day to tour the park, visit the San Pedrillo Sector, the Sirena Sector, or both sectors from Bahía Drake on a boat tour. Not only is the experience relatively affordable and easy to arrange through most tour operators and hotels, you’ll also be able to set foot in the park (sign the guest book at the ranger station to record your presence), snap memorable photos, likely lay your eyes on some wildlife you’ve never seen before, and be back in Bahía Drake reminiscing about the day long before sundown. Choose the Sirena Sector if you want a light walking tour and an increased chance of seeing mammals, especially tapirs. Go with the San Pedrillo Sector if you’d rather experience a more challenging hike that explores dense forest (some of which is 3,000-year-old primary forest).

LOCAL GUIDES AND TOURS

Self-guided exploration of the park is not permitted. The region’s certified tour operators and agencies run guided day tours and overnight expeditions through several areas in the park. Tour guides can also be reserved through area accommodations. There is a maximum number of tickets that a tour provider can purchase each day (tickets can be purchased up to six months before the visit date), but not every tour provider is guaranteed tickets. Availability can be hit or miss. If one of my recommended tour providers can’t provide a park tour on your requested date, check with a different one.

Bahía Drake has the greatest number of tour companies selling day tours to the national park. Local freelance tour guides tend to bounce between these companies from day to day, working for whichever one has tickets for the park. Several of the guides belong to the Asociación de Guías Naturalistas de Bahía Drake (Drake Bay Naturalist Guides Association, AGUINADRA; www.corcovadodrakeguides.com [URL inactive]), a group that’s working to preserve the Osa Peninsula.

Tours of this sought-after park also depart from other destinations on the Osa Peninsula, including Puerto Jiménez and Sierpe, as well as destinations off it, like Manuel Antonio and Uvita, both up the coast in the central Pacific region. Although longer in duration, tours taken from central Pacific destinations make it possible to experience the park without having an Osa Peninsula destination as a home base.

Tours from Bahía Drake

Pacheco Tours

200 m (219 yd) southeast of Playa Colorada; tel. 506/8906-2002; www.pachecotours.com

Tours with AGUINADRA-affiliated guides, like Sandro Cambronero—one of the most fauna- and flora-respecting tour guides I’ve ever met—can be reserved through Pacheco Tours. I’ve had wonderful experiences touring the park with this outfit, which runs Sirena Sector day tours (6am and 8:15am daily; 8 hours; $115 pp).

Osa Outdoors Adventures

5 km (3.1 mi) south of Agujitas near Los Planes; tel. 506/8705-3240; www.osaoutdoorsadventures.com

For San Pedrillo Sector day tours (6am daily; 7-8 hours; $100 pp), I like Osa Outdoors Adventures. The owner and head guide, local Steven Masis, is affiliated with AGUINADRA.

Top Trails Corcovado

175 m (191 yd) south of Playa Colorada; tel. 506/6131-1961; www.toptrailscorcovado.com

If you simply cannot choose one sector over the other to visit, take the Sirena and San Pedrillo Full Day Tour (6am daily; 10-11 hours; $165 pp) coordinated by Top Trails Corcovado. On this whirlwind tour, you’ll spend the morning searching for wildlife in the Sirena Sector, and the afternoon hiking past tall trees and other marvelous flora in the San Pedrillo Sector. It’s a great way to see two unique sides of the park from Bahía Drake.

Tours from Sierpe

La Perla del Sur

just south of Road 223; tel. 506/2788-1082; www.laperladelsur.cr; 6:30am-9pm daily

If you’re unable to spend a night in Bahía Drake but make it as far south as Sierpe, you can catch a full-day park tour ($80 pp San Pedrillo Sector, $100 pp Sirena Sector) provided by La Perla del Sur; tours typically depart at 8am and return to Sierpe at 4:30pm.

Tours from Puerto Jiménez

Surcos Tours

on the west side of the airport; tel. 506/2735-5355; www.surcostours.com; 9am-6pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-4pm Sat.

The well-known, certified-sustainable tour operator Surcos Tours has been guiding tours to the park from Puerto Jiménez for years. Its tours are 2- or 3-day outings to the Sirena Sector (2-day package $375 pp, 3-day package $582 pp). A 90-minute one-way boat ride is required to reach the sector from Puerto Jiménez.

Osa Green Travel

tel. 506/8868-6481; www.osagreentravel.com

Most unique are two-day itineraries that explore the Los Patos Sector—the wildest part of the park that’s open to the public—on the way to or from the Sirena Sector. You’re bound to see abundant wildlife during the deep-woods expedition, not to mention a variety of the park’s elevations, on the epic journey. Overnight stays take place at the Sirena ranger station, halfway through the multiday trip. Osa Green Travel offers this off-the-beaten-path itinerary on its aptly named Heart of Corcovado Tour (2-day package $419 pp).

Tours from the Central Pacific Region

Manuel’s Tours

tel. 506/8719-6195

From Manuel Antonio, the comprehensive Corcovado National Park Expedition (5am daily; 13 hours; $225 pp San Pedrillo Sector, $245 pp Sirena Sector) operated by Manuel’s Tours includes ground transportation between Manuel Antonio and Sierpe (a two-hour trip each way), boat transportation between Sierpe and either the San Pedrillo Sector or the Sirena Sector (choose your preferred sector when reserving the expedition), the park entrance fee, breakfast, and lunch.

Bahía Aventuras

beside the school, Bahía; tel. 506/2743-8362; www.bahiaaventuras.com; 6:30am-5pm daily

From the neighborhood of Bahía near Uvita, Bahía Aventuras operates a day tour (7am daily; 8-8.5 hours; $160 adults, $100 ages 6-10; min. age 6) that explores the San Pedrillo Sector following a 1.5-hour boat ride down the coast. The tour includes the park entrance fee and a picnic-style lunch served at Playa San Josecito on the return trip to Uvita.

HIKING

An intertwined system of nature trails weaves through the park and connects several ranger stations. Dress and pack for high humidity, scorching sun, and torrential rain. Closed-toe shoes or boots, socks, insect repellent, canteens, sunscreen, a hat, a poncho or jacket, a small towel, a flashlight, and a basic first-aid kit are must-haves. If you plan to stay overnight in the park, bring an alarm clock; morning hikes are scheduled as early as 4:30am. Hiking at night is not permitted in any sector of the park.

San Pedrillo Sector

The San Pedrillo Sector operates as its own individual corner of the park. Five trails totaling 12.5 km (7.8 mi) are accessible beyond a ranger station and offer treks of easy-to-moderate difficulty alongside Río Pargo, through primary and secondary forest, and to a series of small waterfalls. Most people who tour this sector do so via organized day trips that depart from and return to Bahía Drake, an approximately 30-minute boat ride. Day tours typically start around 6am, last eight hours, and cost roughly $100 pp.

Sirena Sector

The Sirena Sector is the heart of the park, and its ranger station is the home base of most overnight visitors. Twenty km (12.4 mi) of trails are spread out over eight routes around the station, but not all of the trails are open to the public at all times.

Guided day tours (expect to pay $115 pp from Bahía Drake) and guided multiday excursions ($345-360 pp for a 2-day package from Bahía Drake or $375 pp for a 2-day package from Puerto Jiménez) visit the sector daily. Most day tours are slow-moving walking tours that cover a small geographic area so you can fully appreciate the park’s biodiversity. You’ll likely explore Sendero Sirena (1 km/0.6 mi; easy), a flat trail that meanders through secondary forest and connects the ranger station to the mouth of Río Sirena. Although sightings of tapirs aren’t guaranteed, I’ve seen them on three separate occasions along this trail, where they like to roam, eat, sleep, and swim. As an overnight guest, you can check out Sendero Sirena before and after the day visitors and spend time exploring less-traveled trails in the park that provide additional wildlife-spotting opportunities.

Tucked away in the forest, a 1-km (0.6-mi) hike leads to the ranger station along a flat trail that begins at the shore. From Bahía Drake, it’s a one-hour boat ride to the trailhead. From Puerto Jiménez, the trailhead is accessed on foot via passage through the La Leona Sector.

La Leona and Los Patos Sectors

The La Leona and Los Patos Sectors are most often toured by hikers on their way to (or coming from) the Sirena Sector. Connecting to the ranger station at Sirena are a 16.5-km (10.2-mi) beach trail that begins at the La Leona ranger station, and a 20-km (12.4-mi) forest trail that departs beyond the Los Patos ranger station. The flat path through La Leona traces much of the coast and is a sweaty endeavor on sunny days, but occasional tree-shaded passage provides temporary relief. In contrast, the narrow, partly downhill trail (or partly uphill, if hiked from Sirena) that departs from Los Patos connects the area’s highlands to the lowlands of the Corcovado basin. Both trails require river crossings, sometimes waist-deep. The Los Patos Sector also offers a second trail, Sendero El Cedral, a challenging 3-km (1.9-mi) hike that rewards brave trekkers with a waterfall, but it is less frequented.

El Tigre Sector

Sendero El Tigre (7-km/4.3-mi loop) is a wildly difficult trail that departs from the village of Dos Brazos, crosses farmland, and enters El Tigre, the park’s newest sector, opened in 2015. Run partly on private property and partly within the park, the full-day hike will stun you early on with a nearly 400-m (1,312-ft) rise in elevation. On your right on entering Dos Brazos is the tourism office that oversees park access and runs guided hiking tours (6am daily; 6-7 hours; $78-112 pp) through the sector.

FOOD AND ACCOMMODATIONS

Overnight stays ($30 pp) inside the park are permitted for 1-4 nights at the Sirena ranger station. The open-air, solar-powered, dormitory-style lodging has enough beds to sleep 70 tired souls, and it supplies linens, mosquito nets, potable water, and lockers ($4 per day). Meals ($20-25 adults, $10-13 ages 3-12) are surprisingly gourmet versions of typical Costa Rican dishes. Vegetarian and gluten-free choices can be provided with advance notice. Food is served at the ranger station at the following times: 6am-8am (breakfast), 10am-11:30am (snacks), noon-1pm (lunch), and 6pm-7pm (dinner). Outside food of any kind is not permitted at the station, as well as anywhere in the park.

Meals and overnight stays at the Sirena ranger station require reservations. Tour operators, agencies, and hotels that sell multiday guided park excursions include the cost of room and board in their tour rates and handle reservation arrangements on behalf of travelers.

GETTING THERE

Corcovado isn’t a national park you can drive to leisurely. To reach most ranger stations, you’ll need time, energy (some entrances are hike-in only), and a flexible itinerary that allows you to work around park permit availability and transportation schedules. Fortunately, outfitter-led day trips are the norm, and tour operators, agencies, and hotels handle most logistics, such as transportation arrangements, overnight stays, advance payment of the park entrance fee, and arranging a tour guide. You can get to the park from just about any destination in the region by booking a day tour or multiday package through a certified provider.

To get to the San Pedrillo ranger station, take one of the boats that depart from Bahía Drake and the dock in Sierpe. Arrivals, here and at the Sirena ranger station, are normally wet landings, meaning you’ll step off the boat several meters from the shoreline and wade through water to get to the mainland.

To get to the La Leona ranger station, road access is permitted as far as the hamlet of Carate following a rugged two-hour drive (weather, vehicle, potholes, and river crossings permitting) from Puerto Jiménez. From Carate, also reachable via a charter flight into the community’s airstrip, it’s a 3.5-km (2.2-mi) walk along the beach to the ranger station. Without a vehicle, you can hitch a ride on the colectivo transportation service that commutes between Puerto Jiménez and Carate (6am and 1:30pm daily). The slow ride, which makes stops along the way, departs from Soda El Colectivo (100 m/109 yd west of Road 245, just south of the bus station) and costs $10 pp. If you plan to stay in Matapalo, the colectivo passes through that area approximately one hour after departure from Puerto Jiménez. The La Leona ranger station can also be accessed on foot via a 16.5-km (10.2-mi) trail that departs from the Sirena ranger station.

Set in the park’s interior, the Sirena ranger station is only accessible by boat (mainly from Bahía Drake, Puerto Jiménez, or the dock in Sierpe), by charter flight (the station has a small airstrip), or on foot (via trails from the La Leona and Los Patos Sectors).

You’ll need a reliable 4WD vehicle, a wild sense of adventure, and luck that brings good weather to reach the Los Patos ranger station. The road to the station, which cuts south from the village of La Palma, is virtually impassable much of the year when rain swells the road’s numerous river crossings. The only other way in is to hike the 15-km (9.3-mi) road. The Los Patos ranger station can also be accessed on foot via a 20-km (12.4-mi) trail that departs from the Sirena ranger station.

Refreshingly easy to reach, albeit over a dusty dirt road, is the El Tigre ranger station. By car, take Road 245 west from Puerto Jiménez for 4 km (2.5 mi) and turn left at the sign for the park. The trailhead is in the village of Dos Brazos, approximately 8 km (5 mi) beyond the turnoff; the way is well marked and takes about 30 minutes from Puerto Jiménez. If you’re traveling from the north, the cutoff to Dos Brazos is 20 km (12.4 mi) after La Palma. Dos Brazos can also be reached by bus during the week from Puerto Jiménez.

Puerto Jiménez and the Golfo Dulce

Before meeting the Pacific Ocean, the southeastern half of the Osa Peninsula curves around the tropical—and turquoise, in places—Golfo Dulce, a calm bay that separates the peninsula from the mainland and provides a soothing contrast to the region’s montane terrain. On the south side of the gulf is the town of Puerto Jiménez, the only community of considerable size in the southern half of the Osa Peninsula. It’s not large, but it is a bustling quintessential Costa Rican fishing town blessed with distant mountain views that serves as a jumping-off place for a few guided expeditions to Parque Nacional Corcovado.

Much like the rest of the Osa Peninsula, this area isn’t yet overrun with tourists. However, improved road conditions and the development of new attractions suggest it’s only a matter of time before Costa Rica’s southern zone catches up with the north. For now, the area comprising Puerto Jiménez and the Golfo Dulce is still considered remote. Inviting villages provide authentic experiences, lodging in areas where there is little development offer faraway-feeling places to stay, wildlife and marinelife make spontaneous appearances, and tourism is kept to a minimum.

SIGHTS

S Mountainside Miradores

The pristine Golfo Dulce, defined by revered oceanographer Jacques Cousteau as one of few tropical fjords in the world, is worth seeing. Three of my four favorite lookout spots in the region feature the gulf; the other provides beautiful river and valley views. All are along Road 245 between the community of Chacarita and Puerto Jiménez. With a rental vehicle, you can pull over to the side of the road and take in the scenic sights at each.

Nearly 20 km (12.4 mi) southwest of Chacarita along Road 245, you can catch a beautiful view of the valley at the north end of the peninsula from the restaurant Mirador Osa (Road 245; 20 km/12.4 mi west of Chacarita). A distant Río Sierpe snakes through the scene. Fifteen km (9.3 mi) west down the road, an opening in the forest (facing south) exposes a breathtaking view of the Golfo Dulce; travel 1 km (0.6 mi) more and you’ll find another clearing (also facing south) with a view of the gulf edged by five layers of rainforest-filled mountains. The colorful scenes are striking and include the soothing blue hue of motionless water and vibrant greens patterned across verdant vegetation. Smooth white stones and terra-cotta-colored soil frame the bottom of the picture from the viewpoints. Park cautiously at either viewpoint; they’re located around curves. At the first forest clearing, there’s a small parking lot on the north side of the road.

Approximately 5.5 km (3.4 mi) after the second forest clearing (after Road 245 descends down the mountainside into the hamlet of Rincón), there’s a third clearing, which faces east. Here, at water level, you can appreciate the tranquility and beauty of the gulf up close. If you’re lucky, you may also see whales breaching offshore, as pregnant and new mothers migrate to the spot to give birth and to nurse their young in its warm waters.

Dos Brazos

12 km (7.5 mi) west of Puerto Jiménez

The community of Dos Brazos was once the X on Costa Rica’s treasure map during a gold rush in the 1970s.

Today, the village of 295 residents runs on ecotourism thanks to Corcovado el Tigre (formerly the Asociación de Conservación de Dos Brazos de Río Tigre; in the village of Dos Brazos; tel. 506/8691-4545; www.corcovadoeltigre.com; 7am-6pm daily), offering a handful of nature tours that include hiking tours, night tours, horseback riding tours, bird-watching tours, visits to swimming holes, and cultural cooking classes. If you have time to spare, there’s no end to the experiences you can have in this tight-knit but welcoming community.

Dos Brazos’s most unique offering, its gold panning tour (9am-2pm daily; 3 hours; $50 adults, $45 under age 13), provides an opportunity to pan for gold by hand in Río Tigre. As you’ll learn during the interactive experience, panning is as much an artistic process as it is a profession. Older workers who reside in the village—you’re bound to come across a few wading in the river—have spent years perfecting the efficient process. Younger generations lead the guided activity with the hope that you’ll leave the area wealthy in new knowledge. On the tour, you’ll hike through the forest to the river.

BEACHES

Playa Preciosa (Playa Platanares)

Though the beach’s official name is Playa Platanares, anyone who has spent more than a few days in Puerto Jiménez calls it Playa Preciosa. The long, largely deserted stretch of coast east of town is the area’s only swimming beach, but the water is consistently rough and suitable only for advanced swimmers. Often awash with driftwood, the brown-sand beach fronts a coastline of warm teal-hued water and crashing waves. Even storms are beautiful when they roll in here. Look and listen for scarlet macaws while sunbathing; they regularly fly overhead.

S Remote Rainforest Resorts

One of the most far-flung places you can visit in Costa Rica is the southernmost point of the Osa Peninsula, at least a seven-hour drive from San José. The area is home to two quiet hamlets: Matapalo, also named Cabo Matapalo (Cape Matapalo) after the craggy escarpment at the peninsula’s tip, and Carate, a small gateway to Parque Nacional Corcovado via the park’s La Leona Sector. Development and services at these destinations are scarce, but that drives their appeal. This part of the country is where to go if you want to sequester yourself away from glaring tourism, immerse yourself in nature without having to be overly active, and hide out among curious wildlife.

A handful of elite small-scale rainforest resorts dot the area, inviting you to enjoy the peninsula’s wilderness with the comforts of luxury. A few resorts are worth considering, but the following are my top three. Each one costs a pretty penny, but helping visits feel more affordable are the three daily meals, prepared skillfully and with locally sourced ingredients, that are included in the nightly rates. (Restaurants outside of the resorts are limited.)

LAPA RÍOS

off Road 245, Matapalo; tel. 506/4070-0420; www.laparios.com; $999 s, $1,512 d; 3-night minimum; conservation fee $25 pp

One of the best eco-resorts in the country is Lapa Ríos. Spread across a hilltop, the secluded property has 17 spacious open-concept bungalows with screened windows, wooden outdoor showers, and private decks with sitting areas and hammocks that face the water. Great for families, each sleeps up to five. The main restaurant’s 360-degree canopy lookout tower, theme nights, and romantic poolside dinners keep dining experiences fresh and fun. Payment of the mandatory conservation fee helps fund the eco-resort’s conscientious sustainability efforts, including wildlife conservation, land protection, community awareness, and environmental research.

EL REMANSO RAINFOREST LODGE

off Road 245, Matapalo; tel. 506/4000-2442; www.elremanso.com; room $523 s, $779 d, bungalow $704 s, $947 d, villa $943 s, $1,231 d

At the recently renovated El Remanso Rainforest Lodge, 16 architecturally stunning, polished, well-furnished rooms, bungalows, and villas—some with plunge pools—juxtapose with the area’s raw, untamed forest. Stay here if you want to surround yourself with Mother Nature and modernity; all accommodations are solar-powered, and nature trails and hanging bridges thread the property, yet there’s nightly turndown service and a spa. Admittedly, the upscale lodge feels foreign in the area, but once you’re on the grounds, the literal approach to luxury lands as familiar and is easy to love.

LUNA LODGE

Off Road 245, Carate; tel. 506/4070-0010; www.lunalodge.com; tent $328 s/d, room $458 s/d, bungalow $598 s/d

Venture out as far as Carate and you’ll think you’ve traveled to the end of the earth, with few signs of civilization in sight. But up a steep road through the thick verdant wilds next to Parque Nacional Corcovado is the Luna Lodge, a wellness center with charming rooms, bungalows, and tents tucked among trees. Seek out this secluded spot if you want to soothe your soul with yoga, nourish your body with whole foods, and exist harmoniously with nature—with zero distractions.

GETTING THERE

From Puerto Jiménez, Matapalo is a 20-km (12.4-mi), 45-minute drive south on Road 245. Carate is another 25 km (15.5 mi) (about 1.5 hours’ drive) west of Matapalo on the same road.

Bringing a rental car to this remote, rugged part of the region is neither required nor recommended. (If you choose to drive, be aware that the rough stretch of road between Puerto Jiménez and Carate requires a 4WD vehicle with high clearance and includes river crossings, and your last chance to fill up on gas is in Puerto Jiménez center.) The resorts can arrange private transportation between their property and Puerto Jiménez or other destinations in Costa Rica, if desired. Alternatively, you can hop on the colectivo transportation service that departs from Soda El Colectivo (100 m/109 yd west of Road 245) in Puerto Jiménez and braves the bumpy route to Matapalo and Carate twice daily (6am and 1:30pm; $5 to Matapalo, $10 to Carate).

RECREATION

Bird-Watching

Though Puerto Jiménez isn’t a bird-watching destination per se, flocks of parrots and macaws reside around the town, and seeing them is practically guaranteed if you know where to look and when. Twice daily, at dawn and dusk, tens of parrots and several macaws congregate in the trees behind the Los Delfines restaurant in the northeast corner of Puerto Jiménez, between the waterfront and the north end of the airport. To lay your eyes on the birds, and photograph them at close range, simply walk or drive to the spot and look up. You’ll know you’re at the right place at the right time if you hear loud collective screeching. The brash sound, in addition to the birds’ colorful plumage, is impossible to miss.

FOOD AND ACCOMMODATIONS

Soda El Colectivo

100 m (109 yd) west of Road 245, just south of the bus station; tel. 506/8521-8511; 6am-8pm Mon.-Sat.; $6-8

Soda El Colectivo is conveniently positioned at the pickup and drop-off place for the colectivo transportation service that travels between Puerto Jiménez, Matapalo, and Carate—an access point for Parque Nacional Corcovado. But even if you’re not coming or going from the park, you’ll appreciate that this restaurant opens early, is within walking distance of nearly everything in town, and makes it possible to get a hearty helping of fresh Costa Rican food and a drink for less than US$10.

Marisquería Corcovado

Oceandrive Blvd., 100 m (109 yd) east of the pier; tel. 506/2735-5659; 9am-10pm daily; $8.50-17

On the waterfront, where you can practically see the day’s catches being tossed on the mainland before they hit your plate, is Marisquería Corcovado. This is a decent place for seafood- and fish-based dishes, including seafood pastas, seafood salads, sushi, and ceviches. Grab a table by the water’s edge, or a stool around the big tree that grows through the center of the restaurant, and down a bottle of Corcovado-brand beer.

S Hotel Hoja de Oro Corcovado

Road 245, 150 m (164 yd) southeast of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2735-5022; www.hotelhojadeoro.com; $82 s/d

For a stay directly in Puerto Jiménez, I like Hotel Hoja de Oro Corcovado, a welcoming, family-run, two-story hotel with fair, affordable rates. The rooms are clean, sleep up to four in single and double beds, and are equipped with air-conditioning, a minifridge, a TV, and a private bath. Breakfast, included in the rates, is at a restaurant a block down the road. Parking on the street in front or in the hotel’s narrow gated lot is free.

Cabinas Jiménez

off Road 245, 100 m (109 yd) north of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2735-5090; www.cabinasjimenez.com; $95-120 s/d

Ideal if you’re planning an overnight trip to Parque Nacional Corcovado and don’t want to drag your luggage with you, Cabinas Jiménez provides free baggage storage. Other extras, like secure parking and free kayak and bike use, are also included. Set right on the gulf, the hotel’s 22 air-conditioned rooms sleep 1-5 in single, double, or bunk beds, and either face the pool or have an outdoor patio with views of the water.

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

Puerto Jiménez has a police station (south side of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2735-5114; 24 hours daily); a clinic called Ebais Puerto Jiménez (just west of the police station; tel. 506/2735-5029; 24 hours daily); a pharmacy called Farmacia Hidalgo (Road 245, 400 m/0.25 mi south of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2735-5564; 8am-7:30pm Mon.-Sat.); banks with ATMs, including Banco de Costa Rica (Road 245, 375 m/410 yd south of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2211-1111; 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri., ATM 5am-midnight daily); a post office (just east of the police station; tel. 506/2735-5045; 8am-noon and 1:30pm-5pm Mon.-Fri.); and several supermarkets. There’s a gas station on Road 245, 500 m (0.3 mi) south of the fútbol field.

GETTING THERE

Puerto Jiménez is 375 km (235 mi) (about 5.5 hours’ drive) southeast from downtown San José via the coastal route (Hwy. 27, Hwy. 34, Hwy. 2, and Road 245). It’s 335 km (210 mi) (about 6 hours’ drive) southeast from downtown San José via the mountain route that begins on Highway 2, continues to Highway 34 (via Road 243), then returns to Highway 2 and Road 245. From downtown Liberia, Puerto Jiménez is 460 km (285 mi) (about 7 hours’ drive) southeast via Highways 1, 23, 27, 34, and 2 and Road 245.

Road 245 enters Puerto Jiménez from the west, cuts north-south through the center of town, passes by the gas station, and continues down the coast to Matapalo before it eventually ends at Carate. Driving the road as far as Puerto Jiménez does not require a 4WD vehicle, but onward travel south does.

Costa Rica Shuttle (tel. 506/4000-1040; www.costaricashuttle.com) and SAMA Transfers (tel. 506/8303-4666; www.samatransfers.com), both operating from regions outside of the Osa Peninsula, can provide private transfer services to far-flung locales like Puerto Jiménez. Prices hover around $460 for the long trip from San José.

Public buses from San José, San Isidro de El General, and Ciudad Neily travel to Puerto Jiménez.

S Golfo Dulce Flights

If you want to fly somewhere in Costa Rica, fly to the Golfo Dulce, ideally to Puerto Jiménez. Not only does the quick 45-minute flight avoid five or more hours of driving or an eight-hour bus ride from San José, the trip is also wonderfully scenic. Once your plane climbs steeply out of the Central Valley, you’ll soar above the mountaintops past the country’s highest peak and catch a bird’s-eye view of cities, plantations, national parks, and other protected reserves. The best view, however, is last, when you fly over the calm blue crystalline gulf. You’ll descend over the water, just above fishing boats occupying the pier in Puerto Jiménez, before landing on the narrow airstrip in town. Although it’s bumpy and not for the faint of heart, the aerial tour offers a look at the region’s varied landscape like no other.

The Aeropuerto Puerto Jiménez (Puerto Jiménez Airport, PJM) is on the east side of town, a mere 500 m (0.3 mi) from the main drag, Road 245. SANSA Airlines (tel. 506/2290-4100; www.flysansa.com) offers direct flights to Puerto Jiménez daily from San José.

Caribbean Coast

HIGHLIGHTS

MAP: CARIBBEAN COAST

ORIENTATION

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Itinerary Ideas

A TASTE OF TORTUGUERO

THE SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN IN TWO DAYS

Caribbean Inlands

MAP: CARIBBEAN INLANDS

SAFETY CONCERNS

PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQUÍ

Río Pacuare

S WHITE-WATER RAFTING

ACCOMMODATIONS

Tortuguero

MAP: TORTUGUERO

SIGHTS

RECREATION

FOOD AND ACCOMMODATIONS

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

GETTING THERE

PARQUE NACIONAL TORTUGUERO

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca and Vicinity

PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA

MAP: PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA

PLAYA COCLES TO MANZANILLO

MAP: SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN

REFUGIO NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE GANDOCA-MANZANILLO

CAHUITA

MAP: CAHUITA

S PARQUE NACIONAL CAHUITA

Highlights

Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.

S Explore the rainforest away from crowds on nature walks within Reserva Biológica Tirimbina (click here).

S Go white-water rafting on Río Pacuare (click here).

S Float through the Tortuguero canals (click here).

S Watch sea turtles nesting at Parque Nacional Tortuguero (click here).

S Learn about wildlife rescue and rehabilitation efforts at the Jaguar Rescue Center (click here).

S Experience chocolate making, from bean to bar, on the Caribeans Chocolate Tour (click here).

S Watch monkeys playing in the trees at the accessible Parque Nacional Cahuita (click here).

The pace of life in the Caribe—the Caribbean—is gentler than in the rest of the country. It moves to reggae rhythms and calypso claps. Bright colors saturate the region, and the cuisine is rich and flavorful, something to be savored. Warm breezes sway the branches of the palm trees.

Ask a Costa Rican about the Caribbean region and you’re bound to hear the phrase “Lo mejor de Limón es su gente” (“The best of Limón is its people”). Contained entirely within Limón province, the Caribbean coast is Costa Rica’s cultural melting pot, where Afro-descendant, Indigenous, Chinese, and mestizo traditions and languages come together. In this notably diverse region, there are more Afro-descendant and Indigenous citizens than elsewhere in the country. Many Afro-descendants reside in waterfront communities along the coast. Most of the Caribbean’s Indigenous people inhabit the foothills of the Cordillera de Talamanca in the southern Caribbean’s mountainous inland region. The Caribbean is also home to Chinese descendants (the largest population in Costa Rica outside of the Central Valley), many of whom live in the city of Limón. Several businesses in the region, including tourism companies, are owned by members of these groups. This is a great part of Costa Rica to visit if you seek cultural immersion and have a particular interest in financially supporting Costa Rica’s marginalized racial groups.

Culturally distinct from the rest of Costa Rica, the sultry Caribbean coast boasts an easygoing vibe and a no-frills approach to tourism. Most Limonenses (residents of Limón province) get by with little, and visitors are encouraged to do the same. Amenities that are standard in other areas of the country (air-conditioning, reliable Wi-Fi, potable water, and private parking) are considered luxuries in the Caribbean. Economy accommodations and outdoorsy lodges equipped with fans, screened windows, and mosquito nets are the norm. So is purchasing and drinking bottled water, as opposed to tap water, to minimize the chance of getting sick. This is also where hammocks are heaven, bikes outnumber cars, and dollars—when compared to spending on the Pacific coast—can stretch for miles.

The Caribbean’s most obvious draws are the beautiful and rapids-filled Río Pacuare, and the laze-inviting beach town of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. But the region is also home to a handful of ecological habitats where some of Costa Rica’s rarest wildlife resides. Possible sightings of jaguars, manatees, sea turtles, and great green macaws delight visitors who flock to the Caribbean for its verdant forests and calm canals. Some sites here, primarily in Tortuguero and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, are recognized around the world as key locales for marinelife conservation and rainforest research.

ORIENTATION

The Caribbean spans the entire northern coastline from the border at Nicaragua to the border at Panama. It creeps inland roughly 60 km (37 mi), where it meets the Northern Inlands and the Central Valley and Highlands. The Carretera Braulio Carrillo (Braulio Carrillo Highway), also known as Highway 32, is the region’s thoroughfare, connecting San José to the Caribbean coast. Branches off the highway lead to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí and Tortuguero in the northern Caribbean as well as a variety of beach towns—Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Manzanillo, and Cahuita, among others—in the southern Caribbean.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

The northern Caribbean region’s natural wonderlands provide fantastic bird-watching opportunities and immersion in a variety of ecosystems. Give yourself two days at the inland destination of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí or on the coast at Tortuguero. In Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, the overnight stay will provide time to experience the area’s many rainforest trails, including those at Reserva Biológica Tirimbina, during the day and night. In Tortuguero, you can tour the Tortuguero canals in the morning or afternoon. Then, if it’s turtle season (as early as March, but primarily July-October), catch an evening turtle nesting tour in Parque Nacional Tortuguero.

If you plan to visit the southern Caribbean region, you’ll need at least three full days to take in the region’s highlights. The Caribeans Chocolate Tour and the Jaguar Rescue Center can be experienced in a few hours, but longer stretches of time fly by while lounging on the beach at Parque Nacional Cahuita, exploring Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo, and surfing the break at Salsa Brava. How much time you should spend in the area depends on how much time you want to spend lazing around. You can do that endlessly in the Caribbean, which is likely why so many foreigners arrive on vacation, sink into the slow-paced life, and never leave.

Don’t forget to save a day for a white-water rafting trip down the remarkable Río Pacuare. The thrilling tour—regarded by many travelers as a top Costa Rica vacation experience—can either be combined with Tortuguero packages (experienced from towns in the southern Caribbean) or arranged as a travel connection between Caribbean destinations and other areas of the country, including La Fortuna and San José. It’s the perfect way to accomplish interregional or cross-country travel while having the time of your life.

Weather and Transportation

Weather patterns in the Caribbean are the opposite of those everywhere else in the country for part of the year. In September-October, when the majority of Costa Rica is either damp or waterlogged, much of the Caribbean basks in tropical sun. February-March too are notoriously sunny; the remaining months are splashed steadily with rain. Precipitation varies within the region. In general, the farther north you travel, the more rain there is. While the southern Caribbean is the driest section, destinations in the northern Caribbean rank as some of the wettest in the country. Temperatures vary but average 24-25°C (75-77°F).

Major roads in the region are paved and easy to drive, despite some annoying potholes. Except for the first 45 km (28 mi) of the drive when traveling from downtown San José to the Caribbean via Highway 32, the region is flat and doesn’t require traversing mountainous terrain. A 4WD vehicle is not needed. Highway accidents and landslides, which can cause road closures or driving delays, are the most pressing concerns. On the northern Caribbean coast, boats regularly access car-free communities. Boat transportation from numerous docks is widely available and well organized by several tourism companies.

Itinerary Ideas

A TASTE OF TORTUGUERO

The network of serpentine canals at Tortuguero, in the northern Caribbean, is a sight to behold. It’s possible to float through the canals and spy on them from above with this itinerary that visits multiple sectors of the destination’s eponymous national park.

1 Ease into the day with a gentle early-morning canal tour through the Canales Sector of Parque Nacional Tortuguero. Partake in bird-watching and wildlife-viewing, and embrace the slow-moving trip that reflects the serenity of the area by taking time to examine and appreciate all that you see. If you want to eat breakfast before the tour, dine at Dorling’s Bakery. Alternatively, grab breakfast at Dorling’s after the tour is complete.

2 Midday, hop on one of the boats that commute between Tortuguero Village and the park’s Cerro Tortuguero Sector. Climb the stairs to the observation deck and take in the wide-reaching aerial view of the verdant Tortuguero vicinity. When you’ve seen enough, descend the stairs and catch a boat back to the village.

3 In the afternoon, give yourself an hour to explore the Tortuguero Village on foot and people-watch at the Almendro Dock. Add an hour if you want to walk as far north as the Sea Turtle Conservancy to tour its small museum and learn about sea turtle conservation efforts. Find your way to El Patio at dinnertime to delight in tasty Caribbean food and a view of the lagoon.

4 If it’s turtle season, take a guided nighttime turtle nesting tour inside the park’s Cuatro Esquinas Sector for a chance to see sea turtles.

THE SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN IN TWO DAYS

Soak up key sights, tastes, and sounds on the jammin’ Jamaican-inspired side of Costa Rica with this two-day itinerary with Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, the hub of the southern Caribbean, as the home base.

Day 1

1 In the early morning, take a taxi or ride a bike to the Jaguar Rescue Center and catch the 9:30am wildlife tour to see rescued and rehabilitated animals and learn about the center’s admirable wildlife preservation efforts.

2 After the tour, walk or bike up the main coastal road to the north end of Playa Cocles. Park yourself at a comfy place on the sand and give yourself an hour or two to sunbathe and relax.

3 For lunch, grab jerk chicken or other delicious street food from the Take It Easy food cart stationed at the beach, if you’re there on a weekend. Alternatively, pop into Beach Break across the street from Playa Cocles and order the patacones with tuna and shrimp.

4 At 2pm, be at Caribeans to catch the afternoon chocolate tour. Learn how chocolate is made from cacao, a beloved product of the Caribbean region, and taste organic chocolate directly from its source.

5 Walk or bike back to Puerto Viejo in the late afternoon. Stroll around town to check out its souvenir stands, then feast on traditional Caribbean foods, like the mouthwatering chicken in salsa caribeña, at Lidia’s Place.

6 If you’re a night owl, go dancing at Nanku/Clan Vibes or check out an event hosted by Hot Rocks.

Day 2

1 Take the morning to explore the Playa Blanca Sector of Parque Nacional Cahuita up the coast at Cahuita. Rise early so you can arrive before 8am, when organized tour groups make their way to the park.

2 Spend a few hours strolling along the easy nature trail that parallels the coast or stretching out on Playa Blanca. Sign up for a snorkeling tour if you want to see the park’s protected reefs and schools of tropical fish.

3 Exit the park around noon and indulge in coconut rice and beans at Soda Kawe or rondón at Cahuita’s Taste for lunch.

4 Return to Puerto Viejo and give yourself the afternoon to either ride the advanced surf break at Salsa Brava, or, if you’re a beginner surfer, take a surf lesson at the Caribbean Surf School. If you don’t surf, double up on nature exploration with a guided tour through the Manzanillo Sector of Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo in nearby Manzanillo.

5 Be at the beachfront Salsa Brava Beach Restaurant and Bar in Puerto Viejo at 5:30pm to witness a spectacular sunset. Order a vegetarian or vegan meal for dinner and wash it down with a fresh fruit smoothie while listening to groovy reggae music.

6 If you’re up for another night out on the town, stay at the Salsa Brava Beach Restaurant and Bar to catch a DJ set after dark, or head to the Green Jaguar to enjoy brewskis and live music.

Caribbean Inlands

Ground travel between downtown San José and most destinations in the Caribbean region takes place on Highway 32. The popular paved highway is relatively easy to drive and takes three hours; however, weekday traffic in the early morning and late afternoon, worsened by slow-moving semitrailers, contributes to congestion. Landslides occur about 2-3 times a month in the low season, causing significant traffic delays.

The first 45 km (28 mi) of the route is a spectacular journey. Northeast of downtown San José, Highway 32 climbs out of the Central Valley, winds through protected luxuriant tropical brush, and cuts through a mountain by way of the 550-m (600-yd) Túnel Zurquí (Zurquí Tunnel). The landscape is dramatic; lush mountains flank one side of the highway, steep cliffs drop off the other, and the massive awe-inspiring rainforest feels like a scene straight out of Jurassic Park. Although cloud cover, fast-moving vehicles, and narrow shoulders are known hazards, driving the stretch through exceptionally beautiful virgin forest is a thrill. Once the montane inland is in your rear-view mirror, the remainder of the route is a direct path to the coast.

Shortly after Highway 32 exits the mountains it connects with Highway 4, a north-south route that leads to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí.

SAFETY CONCERNS

East of where Highway 4 meets Highway 32, the towns of Guápiles, Guacimo, and Siquirres are plagued by high crime rates. This makes unguided stops risky, especially after dark. Tourism is practically nonexistent in this area. Stopping in these towns could put you at risk for robbery or assault.

In general, driving Highway 32, which bypasses the three towns, is safe. Exercise common sense and keep your wits about you. Fill up on gas, use the restroom, and pack snacks before you leave so you can avoid making stops along the way.

A few restaurants at the side of the highway around Guápiles are connection points for Tortuguero excursions. Operation centers near Siquirres serve as the meeting place for a few white-water rafting tours down Río Pacuare. Brief stops in the two towns for these purposes are typically safe, given that tour guides and a large group of travelers are often present.

If you must stop along the route, the best place is just west of the intersection of Highway 32 and Highway 4 at the tourist-friendly, traditional Costa Rican restaurant El Yugo de Mi Tata (tel. 506/2711-0090; 24 hours daily; $4-10), which has restrooms, food, and drinks. Before you get back on the highway, fill up on gas at the gas station across the road to avoid having to stop for it later in an unsafe area.

PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQUÍ

North of San José and sunken in the lush premontane forest that extends to the border of Nicaragua is the biodiverse community of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí. The area that encompasses Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, the hamlet of Chilamate (8 km/5 mi west of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí), and the small village of La Virgen (16 km/10 mi southwest of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí) is called Sarapiquí and is a hub of respected rainforest research. Many locals work on the banana and pineapple plantations that make use of the region’s rich soil. Residents who don’t work in the fields are part of the understated tourism industry that exists mostly as a few rustic lodges, guided nature walks, farm tours, and trips down the Río Sarapiquí.

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí connects adventure tourism destinations in the northern inland area, including La Fortuna, with getaways along the Caribbean coast.

Sights

Estación Biológica La Selva

La Selva Biological Station, off Hwy. 4, 3 km (1.9 mi) south of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí; tel. 506/2766-6565; by guided tour only

Though scientists and students from around the world account for most of the annual visitors to the Estación Biológica La Selva, many of the forested trails that wind through the ecological research station’s nearly 4,000-acre property are open to the public for touring. Flat paths (concrete in some places, wood in others) enable rainforest exploration for travelers of all abilities. If you have an interest in plants and trees, you’ll marvel at La Selva’s collection of over 2,000 varieties, including ferns, gingers, palms, threatened Zamia neurophyllidia, and funny-looking Monstera deliciosa, known as the swiss cheese plant. Birds, snakes, frogs, howler monkeys, and peccaries make occasional appearances.

The station is managed by the Organization for Tropical Studies (OTS; Universidad de Costa Rica, San José; tel. 506/2661-4717; www.tropicalstudies.org).

From the station, tour guides lead visitors on the gentle Short Walk (8am and 1:30pm daily; 3 hours; $42 adults, $33 ages 5-12) on the station’s flat concrete and wood trails. The narrated natural history tour details flora and fauna found in the area and provides information about on-site research projects. Opt to participate in the Early Birding Tour (5:45am daily; 2 hours; $57 adults, $37 ages 5-12) and you’ll head into the forest at the break of dawn, alongside a tour guide, in search of new species to add to your bird list. You’re sure to come across plenty, as La Selva is home to roughly half the bird species documented in Costa Rica. If you’re a night owl, sign up for the Nocturnal Wildlife Walk (7pm daily; 2 hours; $59 adults, $38 ages 5-12), where you’ll encounter an assortment of amphibians, reptiles, mammals, and arthropods that contribute to the area’s significant biodiversity. All guided experiences require reservations by telephone or through the OTS website; in addition, participants must wear completely enclosed footwear.

Highway 32 Closures

Several times each year (most often May-December), poor weather conditions close sections of Highway 32 between San José and Highway 4. Road closures can be confirmed by the Zurquí department of the Policía de Tránsito (Transit Police; tel. 506/2268-2157).

Most officers do not speak English. Instead, check the status of the road as most locals do, by asking, “¿Está abierta la ruta treinta y dos?” (“Is Route 32 open?”) This should return a quick “Sí” (“Yes”) or “No.” If you don’t want to call the police, see the Facebook group “Ruta 32 y su Estado” (www.facebook.com/groups/Ruta32ysuestado), where drivers from the public post about road delays and closures.

ALTERNATE ROUTES TO THE CARIBBEAN

In the event of a road closure, you’ll need to take one of the two alternate routes to the Caribbean. Both provide a mix of mountainous and flat terrain on paved highway.

• From downtown San José, take Highway 2 to Cartago, followed by Highway 10 through Turrialba to Siquirres, where the road ends at Highway 32. From downtown San José to Limón, the drive is 170 km (105 mi) and takes about three hours and 45 minutes.

• From Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría in Alajuela, take Roads 712, 146, 120, and 126 to Highway 4. Follow Highway 4 through Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí until the road ends at Highway 32. From Alajuela to Limón, the drive is 220 km (136 mi) and takes roughly 4.5 hours. Although longer, this route avoids San José’s chaotic downtown area.

S Reserva Biológica Tirimbina

GOOGLE MAP

Tirimbina Biological Reserve; Road 126, 14 km (8.7 mi) southwest of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí; tel. 506/4020-2900; www.tirimbina.org; 7am-5pm daily, last entry 4pm; $21 adults, $13 ages 6-12

The private wildlife refuge Reserva Biológica Tirimbina is a great place to leisurely walk through Costa Rica’s rainforest away from crowds. Wondrous flora flourishes in the quiet reserve; eye-catching yellow corteza trees, red-tinged palms, and a sky-high ceiba tree with century-old buttress roots are most attractive. Many of the plants and trees you’ll see in the forest are biologically significant, serving as important sources of food and shelter for local animals, helping to enrich the area’s soil, and sometimes used for medicinal purposes. Signage (in Spanish and English) along the reserve’s 7 km (4.3 mi) of well-marked trails makes identification easy.

Tirimbina’s trails, ranging from easy to moderate in difficulty, can be hiked without a guide if you want to explore the forest and search for birds and wildlife at your own pace. (Give yourself at least two hours to complete the entire circuit.) If you’d rather have a guide, the reserve runs a multitude of tours ($34-36 adults, $24-25 ages 6-12) on its 850 acres. The options include a guided bird-watching tour, a guided night tour, a guided natural history rainforest walk, and an educational cacao-processing tour. Proceeds finance on-site research and educational projects.

The rainforest and river views in the reserve are magnificent, especially from the long hanging bridge (located just beyond the entrance) suspended 22 m (72 ft) above the rapids of Río Sarapiquí. Crossing the bridge is part of the fun of hiking at Tirimbina, but be forewarned: The bridge wobbles and sways as you journey across. A second, less daunting bridge awaits deeper in the forest.

Farm Tours

Organic Paradise Tour

4 km (2.5 mi) north of Hwy. 4, 10 km (6.2 mi) west of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí; tel. 506/2761-0706; www.organicparadisetour.com; 8am-5pm daily

Sweet, juicy, and mouthwatering piña (pineapple) is ripe for the picking at the family-run Organic Paradise Tour. You can learn just about everything there is to know about the tropical delicacy, from seeding and harvesting processes to its Indigenous roots, during the farm’s Pineapple Tour (8am, 10am, 1pm, and 3pm daily; 2 hours; $40 pp). The experience takes you into an 80-acre pineapple plantation for an up-close look at the world of organic pineapple farming and ends with a tasty treat of fresh pineapple slices and a delicious pineapple smoothie.

White-Water Rafting

In some parts of Sarapiquí, the sound of ripping rapids disrupts the calmness of the quiet region. Roaring through like a raging bull are the impressive Class III-IV rapids that belong to sections of Río Sarapiquí and are ideal for white-water rafting.

Desafio Adventure Company

Road 702, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) south of Road 142; tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com; 7am-9pm daily

The well-known La Fortuna-based tour operator Desafio Adventure Company runs rafting tours down the river from La Fortuna and San José, but if your home base is Sarapiquí, you can catch one of its tours from its riverside outpost (Calle El Roble, 150 m/164 yd south of Hwy. 4; tel. 506/8904-6809) in the area. The company’s Jungle Run (9:30am from the outpost in Sarapiquí; 2 hours; $105 pp; min. age 15) is a mad fun ride down the river’s San Miguel section (Class III-IV).

Aguas Bravas

7.5 km (4.6 mi) west of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí; tel. 506/2761-1645; www.aguasbravascr.com; 8am-8pm daily

Less intense white-water rafting trips are led by longtime Sarapiquí-based outfitter Aguas Bravas. Its Eco Rafting Tour (9:30am and 1:30pm daily; 2.5 hours; $65 pp; min. age 5) explores the Class II-III rapids that belong to La Virgen, a tamer section of Río Sarapiquí.

Safari Float Tours

Aguas Bravas

7.5 km (4.6 mi) west of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí; tel. 506/2761-1645; www.aguasbravascr.com; 8am-8pm daily

Flat sections of Río Sarapiquí are ideal for leisurely safari float tours. The Safari Float Tour (9:30am and 1:30pm daily; 2.5 hours; $65 pp; min. age 4) provided by Aguas Bravas is a river trip amid a pretty rainforest setting with plenty of opportunities to spot wildlife such as sloths, iguanas, and otters. The peaceful trip requires little to no effort and is great for kids.

Food and Accommodations

The best food and lodging options in this area are west of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, around Chilamate. Most of these spots are on or close to Highway 4.

Rústiticos

Hwy. 4, 8.5 km (5.3 mi) west of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí; tel. 506/8877-8928; 11am-9pm daily; $6-13.50

If you’re hungry, your eyes will light up when you see the portion sizes that come out of the kitchen at Rústiticos. The small restaurant serves casados, traditional dishes that marry servings of rice and beans on a plate, accompanied by a variety of side dishes, plus tons of other options such as seafood specialties, salads, hamburgers, nachos, soups, and a long list of breakfast plates. Good service, low prices, and an unpretentious vibe add more reasons to dine at the spot.

Chilamate Rainforest Eco-Retreat

just south of Hwy. 4, 5.5 km (3.4 mi) west of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí; tel. 506/2766-6949; www.chilamaterainforest.com; $50-120 s/d

I’m partial to the family-run Chilamate Rainforest Eco-Retreat, given the owners’ commitment to the betterment of the Sarapiquí community through the development of local programs (one owner is a Sarapiquí native). Each room at this economical, eco-friendly lodging is unique in style, furnishings, price, and occupant capacity (one room has a single bed for one guest, and another sleeps up to eight), but all have private baths and take in the glorious natural soundtrack of Río Sarapiquí, which flows beside the property. Overnight stays include breakfast and access to trails around the hotel’s rainforest reserve.

Selva Verde Lodge

Hwy. 4, 6 km (3.7 mi) west of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí; tel. 506/2761-1800; www.selvaverde.com; $154 s, $178 d

If you plan to stay in Sarapiquí for a few days, plant yourself at the Selva Verde Lodge. Everything you might want is scattered around the tranquil grounds of the 500-acre private reserve, including two restaurants, a bar, and a pool. A nature trail ideal for bird-watching weaves throughout the leafy property, which aligns with the Costa Rican Bird Route (www.costaricanbirdroute.com [URL inactive]), a biological corridor for rare great green macaws. The lodge has 40 cozy and comfortable white-walled rooms with striking wood floors, one or two beds, and forest or river views.

Information and Services

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí’s clinic is Ebais Puerto Viejo (Calle 1 at Avenida 3; tel. 506/2766-6734; 6am-6pm Mon.-Sat.). The closest hospital is the Hospital de Guápiles (Calle 1 and Avenida 7, 1.5 km/0.9 mi north of Hwy. 32, Guápiles; tel. 506/2710-6801; 24 hours daily) in Guápiles, a 45-km (28-mi), 50-minute drive southeast of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí.

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí has a post office (north side of the fútbol field at Calle Central; tel. 506/2766-9828; 8:30am-noon and 1:30pm-5pm Mon.-Fri.), supermarkets, and a police station (just south of Hwy. 4, 1.5 km/0.9 mi south of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí; tel. 506/2766-6575; 24 hours daily).

Calle Central, which extends east from Highway 4 and runs north-south through town, has a few pharmacies, including Farmacia Club (50 m/55 yd south of the fútbol field; tel. 506/2766-6746; 8am-6pm daily), and banks with ATMs, including Banco de Costa Rica (150 m/164 yd east of Hwy. 4; tel. 506/2211-1111; 9am-4pm Mon.-Fri., ATM 5am-midnight daily).

Getting There

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí is 85 km (53 mi) (a drive of one hour and 45 minutes) north of downtown San José via Highways 32 and 4. From Liberia, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí is 210 km (130 mi) east, a drive that takes roughly three hours and 45 minutes on Highway 1, Road 142, and Highway 4. Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí is 75 km (47 mi) (a 75-minute drive) east of La Fortuna via Road 142 and Highway 4.

Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com) offers daily shared shuttle services to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí from La Fortuna and beach towns in the southern Caribbean. Prices range $50-60 pp.

Exploradores Outdoors (offices in San José and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca; tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com) offers Río Pacuare white-water rafting trips and multiday Tortuguero expeditions with post-tour onward transportation. These options can be arranged to include a pickup from your hotel in San José, Alajuela, Turrialba, La Fortuna, Tortuguero, Cahuita, or Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, then a drop-off at your hotel in Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí.

The bus station (southwest corner of the fútbol field) is on Calle Central in downtown Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí. Public buses travel to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí from San José and Ciudad Quesada. Be sure to board a bus to Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, not Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

Río Pacuare

The stunning Río Pacuare is undoubtedly one of Costa Rica’s most precious natural masterpieces. Set in the heart of virgin Costa Rican rainforest, the 107-km (66-mi) river is known for its lush mountainsides, rocky banks, tall waterfalls, and narrow canyons. Originating high in the Cordillera de Talamanca, south of the town of Turrialba, the river flows northeast down the mountains and empties into the Caribbean Sea, 35 km (22 mi) northwest of Limón. Weaving through undeveloped land inhabited primarily by members of the Cabécar Indigenous group, the remote Río Pacuare outshines Costa Rica’s other rivers with dramatic and breathtaking scenery.

To experience the river yourself, sign up for a guided white-water rafting tour. Different from the rafting excursions on most other rivers, trips down Río Pacuare aren’t just thrilling adventure tours. They’re rare invitations to see, hear, and feel Costa Rica’s wild rainforest from within. Massive mountains tower above both banks of the river. Overgrown, verdant forests blanket the steep slopes. You’ll float past rocky canyons and steer around giant moss-covered boulders. The setting is grandiose and secluded. During calm floats between rapids, only the occasional birdsong, monkey howl, and whistle of wind can be heard. These river trips reward rafters with fresh air, clean water, and an invigorating connection to nature. Add the adrenaline rush of a white-water rafting expedition, and a journey down the enchanting Río Pacuare is a singular experience. Although guided kayaking tours down the river are also possible, these are for expert kayakers only.

Wildlife near Río Pacuare is abundant, but it can be difficult to spot. Look for iguanas and sloths in the trees that line the river. Herons, toucans, kingfishers, oropendolas, and other exotic birds make regular appearances. Swimming is permitted in the river’s second canyon, where water flows quickly but calmly.

TOP EXPERIENCE

S WHITE-WATER RAFTING

Beyond its unrivaled landscape, Río Pacuare’s claim to fame is its raging rapids. Rafting the river’s renowned Class III-IV rapids requires physical effort but no previous rafting experience. One-day rafting tours are full-day excursions; depending on water levels, group size, and traffic to and from the river, the experience lasts 8-13 hours, 3-4 of which are spent paddling intermittently.

Planning Tips

Most river put-ins (rafting tour starting locations) are off Highway 10 to the east, roughly halfway between Siquirres and the town of Turrialba, but many tour outfitters provide round-trip transportation. Exploradores Outdoors was one of the first companies in Costa Rica to combine adventure tours with free onward travel. Choose to raft Río Pacuare with this company and you can be picked up and dropped off at accommodations in any two of the following areas: San José, Alajuela, Turrialba, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Cahuita, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, and La Fortuna.

In a rental car, you can drive yourself to your chosen rafting tour outfitter’s operation center and take its complimentary tour shuttle to the river. With this self-drive option, you can drive yourself to a new destination as soon as the rafting tour wraps up mid-afternoon. My recommended Río Pacuare rafting tour outfitters have operation centers in Siquirres that provide free secure parking. A few other rafting tour companies have operation centers in Turrialba.

The Class III-IV thrills are most aggressive November-December when rainfall in the area is significant. Be aware that substantial overnight rain can cause the river to flood to dangerous levels by morning, resulting in possible last-minute rafting trip cancellations. If you prefer a tamer river trip, raft during February-March, when rainfall is less significant and water levels are generally low.

Outfitters

Exploradores Outdoors

offices in San José and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca; tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com

Several Río Pacuare tour operators run boats down the river daily. The company I have rafted with more times than I can count is Exploradores Outdoors, which operates daily river tours ($99 pp; min. age 12) from its modern secure Exploration Center 2.5 km (1.5 mi) east of Siquirres. The center has restrooms, showers, oversize lockers, and a restaurant. I prefer this reputable rafting tour operator for its long-standing river operations and spotless safety record. Owners Miguel and Yency Cabrera Chan are a Costa Rican brother-and-sister team as well as avid rafters and kayakers. Their tour guides are a professional well-trained team whose lighthearted humor and playful camaraderie make trips down the river comfortable and fun. Exploradores Outdoors’ tour visits 38 rapids on its 30-km (19-mi) run and includes a buffet breakfast before the river trip begins, as well as a buffet lunch served on the riverbank (weather permitting).

ACCOMMODATIONS

A few Río Pacuare tour operators offer two-day rafting tours with an overnight stay along the river’s edge. Overnight rafting trips are typically all-inclusive one-night packages (longer stays are available on request) that include a private room, meals, and two days of rafting. All river outfitters require reservations for overnight rafting trips as well as for one-day rafting tours.

Pacuare River Lodge

tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com; $239 s, $478 d, all-inclusive

If you choose to raft with Exploradores Outdoors, you stay in the operator’s own Pacuare River Lodge. Resembling a wilderness camp more than a lodge, it has 13 small one-room teakwood cabins with screen windows scattered about the property. Baths are in the lodge’s main building, a short walk from the cabins. Set atop a mountain, the camp overlooks the water from above and has an open-air bar and lounge area with top-notch rainforest and river views.

S Pacuare Lodge

tel. 506/4070-0420; www.pacuarelodge.com; 2-night package $851 s, $1,676 d, all-inclusive; 2-night minimum; conservation fee $25 pp

The luxurious—but extensively eco-friendly—riverfront Pacuare Lodge is one of Costa Rica’s best resort-quality remote accommodations. Its 20 spacious bedroom suites have soaking tubs, canopy beds, high-quality linens and mattresses, outdoor showers, and private terraces. The architecturally stunning property’s peaked roofs, beautiful stonework, forest-facing infinity pool, and well-kept gardens are equally impressive, as is the lodge’s restaurant, which serves spectacular gourmet cuisine in the middle of nowhere. The rafting tours you’ll take to get to and from the lodge are operated by the lodge’s own in-house rafting team. The lodge may also be accessed by helicopter or a combined 4WD vehicle, cable-crossing, and electric car ride provided by the hotel. The mandatory conservation fee funds the lodge’s innumerable sustainability efforts, including maintenance of the hydroelectric turbines and solar panels that power the resort, the comprehensive waste management system, protecting the primary forest and wildlife in the area, and community outreach programs.

Tortuguero

Tortuguero is one of Costa Rica’s most unique regions. Accessible only by small boat or plane, the area is a maze of natural and constructed waterways that snake through swamps, mangroves, and marshland among spits of land. Deemed the Amazon of Costa Rica, Tortuguero is ideal for nature enthusiasts; its calm canals are peaceful, and the lush vegetation that towers over each canal is visually impressive. Enclosed within Parque Nacional Tortuguero (Tortuguero National Park), this is a wildlife-packed destination. It’s also a prime nesting site of multiple species of sea turtles.

Locals reside in the colorful Tortuguero Village, a small concentration of homes and businesses on the isthmus that divides Laguna Tortuguero (Tortuguero Lagoon) from the Caribbean Sea. Although the village offers a handful of accommodations, most visitors stay at the waterfront hotels that are a short boat ride northwest of town. The Almendro Dock, in the center of the village but on its west side and marked by a small park where locals gather to play dominoes, is the destination’s primary dock. The Los Pajaros Dock, an older boat dock named for the pair of tall, colorful bird statues that identifies it at the north end of town, is a secondary dock. Both docks are commonly cited points of reference in Tortuguero.

Planning Your Time

For years, the primary way to experience Tortuguero was to purchase an all-inclusive package that included a private room, meals, local tours (typically canal tours and a Tortuguero Village tour), and ground and boat transportation between Tortuguero and San José, among other cities. Packages are still widely available through tour operators and agencies around the country and through many Tortuguero accommodations. Costs vary by lodging but hover around $275-300 pp ($475-500 per couple) for a one-night package. They’re worth buying if you want to secure all the components necessary for your visit at once in a quick, easy, and typically stress-free way.

Recent growth in Tortuguero has created options for travelers who want to individually book transportation, lodging, meals, and tours. Several boats and shuttles service the area, day tours are easy to coordinate, and accommodations that previously welcomed guests only on multiday packages now offer nightly stays. At the cost of convenience, you can save some money by choosing this option.

Also available are transportation packages that couple shared shuttle and boat transfer services to or from Tortuguero; some operators stop along the way to provide a complimentary meal. These mini packages are a happy medium: They take the hassle out of coordinating transportation services that require connections—the most complicated part of planning a trip to Tortuguero—while giving you the freedom to sleep and dine where you want, and to schedule the activities that interest you the most.

Safety Concerns

All-inclusive packages and transportation packages provide the safest experiences and the most reliable means of getting to and from Tortuguero. Self-arranged transportation in this remote region is not recommended due to tourist-targeted crimes like theft, rental car break-ins, and, in rare cases, robbery along the roads and canals that connect with the docks. To ensure your personal safety, use a reputable hotel or tour outfitter to travel to and from Tortuguero.

Three docks are used as gateways to Tortuguero: Caño Blanco, La Pavona, and Moín. Caño Blanco and La Pavona are each a one-hour drive north of the nontouristy towns of Siquirres and Guápiles, respectively; both are near the southern boundary of Parque Nacional Tortuguero. Moín is in the city of Limón, a nearly four-hour boat ride south of Tortuguero that travelers may find tough to stomach. Caño Blanco is generally the safest because it is used primarily by tour companies. Of the individuals who arrange their own transportation to Tortuguero, most pass through La Pavona because it is nearest to San José and destinations beyond the city. Serving the majority of self-guided visitors as well as some tour companies, La Pavona is Tortuguero’s busiest point of entry. It can be a chaotic scene during the high season.

SIGHTS

Sea Turtle Conservancy

formerly the Caribbean Conservation Corporation; 400 m (0.25 mi) north of the school, Tortuguero Village; tel. 506/8865-4887; www.conserveturtles.org; 8am-noon and 1pm-5pm daily; $2.50 pp

With research dating back to the 1950s, the self-proclaimed longest running sea turtle conservation program in the world is Tortuguero’s Sea Turtle Conservancy. Co-founded by the late Dr. Archie Carr, a world-renowned American herpetologist and conservationist who worked and studied in Tortuguero, this organization advocates for the protection of sea turtles, carrying out research and education programs from its small, modest, beachside facility. Payment of the economical entrance fee at the conservancy’s visitor center buys access to a one-room museum that passionately details the migration routes, nesting cycles, and distinct features of sea turtles, plus an outdoor garden and a gift shop that sells adorable turtle-themed souvenirs. Every dollar spent here helps maintain the conservancy’s decades-long legacy, and in turn, the safety and well-being of sea turtles.

RECREATION

Local Guides and Tours

Exploradores Outdoors

offices in San José and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca; tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com

For help coordinating a Tortuguero visit, contact Exploradores Outdoors. This trustworthy tour operator provides high-value Tortuguero packages that depart from San José, Alajuela, Turrialba, La Fortuna, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Cahuita, and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí daily, with an option to continue on to a new location following your stay in the northern Caribbean region. If you’re an adventure enthusiast, consider the operator’s combined Tortuguero and white-water rafting tour package, which visits Río Pacuare.

Costa Rica Roots Tours

100 m (109 yd) south of the Almendro Dock, Tortuguero Village; tel. 506/2767-3107; www.costaricarootstours.com; 11am-6:30pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-1pm Sun.

Among the many businesses and independent tour guides that offer guided experiences in Tortuguero, my preference is Costa Rica Roots Tours. You cannot go wrong with the collection of professional, knowledgeable, fun, and proficient tour guides who work with the organization, which provides tourism services around the country but is based in Tortuguero. Its local excursions, particularly national park walks, turtle-nesting tours, bird-watching tours, night tours, and canal trips by canoe or kayak, are the best around. The cost of the national park entrance fee is not included with the tours.

FOOD AND ACCOMMODATIONS

If you visit Tortuguero via an all-inclusive package, your lodging will most likely provide your meals. Otherwise, you can dine at casual restaurants in Tortuguero Village, or take a boat to one of Tortuguero’s many accommodations that have a restaurant on-site.

Dorling’s Bakery

200 m (219 yd) north of the Almendro Dock, Tortuguero Village; tel. 506/2767-0444; 5am-6pm daily; $5-8

Open at dawn, Dorling’s Bakery serves early risers with hot coffee, a page-long breakfast menu, and a display case with baked goods that can be purchased to go. The prices are fair, the view of the canal is calming, and the bakery is conveniently in the heart of the village. It’s also close to the town’s two docks, so if your lodging doesn’t provide breakfast, you can grab food or a drink here first thing.

El Patio

100 m (109 yd) north of the Almendro Dock, Tortuguero Village; tel. 506/8543-7988; 11am-9pm daily; $12.50-14.50

Great for grabbing lunch, dinner, or drinks after dark is El Patio, a two-story open-air restaurant at the water’s edge. With good vibes, jammin’ music, and satisfying Caribbean food, dining experiences in Tortuguero Village don’t get much better than this. Try one of the dishes that feature chicken cooked in coconut milk, and enjoy it while taking in light breezes and an unobstructed view of the lagoon.

Casa Marbella

just north of the police station in Tortuguero Village; tel. 506/8833-0827; www.casamarbellatortuguero.com; $45-65 s/d

Stationing yourself in Tortuguero Village is the least expensive way to explore Tortuguero. To cut costs further, stay at the economical Casa Marbella. The B&B has 11 clean rooms (one can sleep up to five) equipped with basic beds, shelves, and private baths. Ask for one of the river-facing superior rooms; they’re bigger but cost the same as the other rooms. Don’t go for grand comfort, but expect above-average hospitality. The helpful owners make an effort to ensure you enjoy your stay, and they know how to maximize your time in the area. Breakfast, served on the property’s waterfront terrace, is included in the hotel’s low rates.

S Aninga Lodge

1.4 km (0.9 mi) inland, on the land spit across from Tortuguero Village; tel. 506/2256-8080; www.aningalodgetortuguero.com; 2-night package $298 pp, 3-night package $390 pp

Opposite Tortuguero Village and with a lovely view of the lagoon is the Aninga Lodge. This quaint lodge has 33 well-appointed bungalows (most sleep three people) with cabin-inspired wooden interiors that demonstrate the lodge’s rusticity, and screened windows, with curtains, that let in the natural soundtrack of the area. Each room features a porch with rocking chairs perfect for lounging in while appreciating Tortuguero’s lush setting. The well-priced multiday packages provide great value: Round-trip transportation from San José, a canal tour by boat, a village tour, and three meals for each night’s stay are included, as is use of the lodge’s adorable turtle-shaped pool and access to the on-site spa.

INFORMATION AND SERVICES

The closest hospital is the Hospital de Guápiles (Calle 1 and Avenida 7, 1.5 km/0.9 mi north of Hwy. 32, Guápiles; tel. 506/2710-6801; 24 hours daily) in Guápiles, a 75-minute boat ride followed by a 50-km (31-mi), 75-minute drive from Tortuguero.

Supermarkets, a police station (tel. 506/2767-1593; 24 hours daily), and the community’s clinic, Ebais Barra Tortuguero (tel. 506/2767-0184; 8am-4pm Tues.-Wed.) form the small walkable Tortuguero Village. There’s an ATM (5am-midnight daily) in the north end of Tortuguero Village, east of the bird statues.

GETTING THERE

If you purchase an all-inclusive Tortuguero package, the outfitter or hotel you book with will handle all ground and boat or air transportation arrangements.

If you prefer to book your Tortuguero accommodations, meals, and tours individually, reserve a transportation package. Not only does this eliminate the stress of missed bus connections, driving through unsafe areas, leaving rental vehicles unattended overnight, buying boat tickets, and finding a safe boat operator, it also makes your life easier. Simply reserve a seat on the all-in-one service: You’ll get picked up at your hotel and transported directly to the dock, where you’ll board a lifejacket-equipped boat with a professional captain and head out on the water with your luggage within arm’s reach.

Several companies offer transportation packages in the form of combined shared shuttle and boat services. Exploradores Outdoors (offices in San José and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca; tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com) offers pickups from San José, Alajuela, Turrialba, La Fortuna, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, Cahuita, or Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. Its Tortuguero Shuttle Land & Water (6am daily; 5 hours; $65 pp), a convenient and high-value option, also includes a hearty breakfast buffet and provides a drop-off at your Tortuguero-area hotel. As a bonus, this service typically departs from the dock at Caño Blanco (approximately 135 km/84 mi and a 2.5- to 3-hour drive from downtown San José), which is often used by hotels and tour operators that run boats to Tortuguero on behalf of their customers.

The quickest way to get to Tortuguero is to fly. The Aeropuerto Tortuguero (Tortuguero Airport, TTQ) is 4 km (2.5 mi) (a quick boat trip) north of Tortuguero Village. SANSA Airlines (tel. 506/2290-4100; www.flysansa.com) offers direct daily flights to Tortuguero from San José.

PARQUE NACIONAL TORTUGUERO

Tortuguero National Park; tel. 506/2709-8086; www.sinac.go.cr; ranger station: 6am-noon and 1pm-4pm daily, last entry 3:30pm; $15 adults, $5 ages 2-12

The vast 190,000-acre Parque Nacional Tortuguero, of which 65 percent is protected waters, is the foremost attraction of the northern Caribbean region and one of Costa Rica’s most visited national parks. A truly remarkable diversity of species inhabits the protected area, including more than 750 types of birds, mammals, reptiles, and amphibians, plus over 700 varieties of plants. Up-close bird-watching, crocodile and caiman sightings (or if you’re lucky, endangered manatee sightings), and encounters with monkeys that drop in on boats are possible wildlife experiences. You may even spot the elusive jaguar that has been seen taking a dip in the park’s rapids-free waters, hiding among the riverbank’s brush, and roaming the southern end of the black-sand Playa Tortuguero, the area’s principal beach. The beach spans 24 km (15 km) of Caribbean coastline but is unsuitable for swimming because of its rough shark-ridden waters.

You can explore the park in a number of ways. The most popular option is to tour the senderos acuáticos (water trails) via a guided canal tour through the park’s Canales Sector. Less popular options are to tour the park’s two terrestrial sectors, the Cuatro Esquinas Sector and the Cerro Tortuguero Sector, on foot. Since Playa Tortuguero is contained within park limits, walks along the beach and participation in turtle nesting tours are also considered park activities. Centers that monitor park access (especially by boat) surround the protected land space.

Some tour operators purchase entrance tickets to the park on behalf of travelers, but they don’t include the cost of the tickets in the cost of their guided tours. If your preferred tour provider does not provide entrance tickets, or you intend to explore the park without a tour guide, you can buy tickets through the website of Costa Rica’s Sistema Nacional de Áreas de Conservación (National System of Conservation Areas, SINAC; www.sinac.go.cr). You’ll need to specify which of the park’s three sectors you intend to visit.

TOP EXPERIENCE

S Tortuguero Canals

GOOGLE MAP

One of the most serene experiences you can have in Costa Rica is to take a boat, canoe, or kayak tour through the canal system entwined within Parque Nacional Tortuguero. This already remote destination begins to feel even more secluded as you float deep into the rainforest and escape civilization. There are plenty of opportunities to spot wildlife along the way: Birders, keep an eye out for kingfishers, curassows, herons, hawks, jacanas, anhingas, cormorants, and toucans. The zone’s ecological habitats are equally worthy of gawking. Simple shifts in scenery will catch your eye, such as how the water is chocolate brown in some areas and crystal clear in others, reflecting the waterway’s verdant vegetation across canals that shine like glass.

For me, the highlight of the astonishingly quiet trip is listening to the chorus of the forest. It is sometimes enlivened by birdsong, monkey howls, and the rustle of leaves as critters dart into hiding, and it is always peaceful. Few heavily visited tourist destinations in Costa Rica provide such a raw and unfiltered absorption of nature.

Costa Rica Roots Tours

100 m (109 yd) south of the Almendro Dock, Tortuguero Village; tel. 506/2767-3107; www.costaricarootstours.com; 11am-6:30pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-1pm Sun.

At their core, canal excursions are natural history tours. They should be led by a knowledgeable tour guide who can help you discover the park through its history, ecosystems, and inhabitants. Nearly every person with ties to tourism in Tortuguero sells the experience, however, whether they are qualified or not. To get the most out of your visit, choose a canal tour (5:40am; 3 hours; $30 pp by canoe, $40 pp by kayak) provided by Costa Rica Roots Tours. The group’s love for Tortuguero and knowledge of the park are tough to beat.

S Sea Turtle Nesting

Sea turtles nest at several beaches in Costa Rica, but Tortuguero is fortunate to host the greatest variety, including leatherback turtles, loggerhead turtles, endangered green turtles, and critically endangered hawksbill turtles. To witness an arribada—when mother sea turtles crawl ashore, lay their eggs in the sand, and return to the sea—is to experience the joy of Tortuguero. There’s a buzz of excitement in the air around the village during turtle season (as early as March, but primarily July-October; September produces the most turtle sightings), when foreigners flood the area, eager to lay eyes on the town’s main attraction, and the park is prepped to carry out its principal aim: protecting the reptiles and their delicate spawn.

Costa Rica Roots Tours

100 m (109 yd) south of the Almendro Dock, Tortuguero Village; tel. 506/2767-3107; www.costaricarootstours.com; 11am-6:30pm Mon.-Sat., 11am-1pm Sun.

Beach access during turtle season is highly regulated by the park. In order to experience an arribada, you’ll need to reserve an authorized guided turtle nesting tour (8pm-10pm or 10pm-midnight, tour time determined by the park each day; 2 hours; $35 pp). It’s best to book your tour after you arrive in Tortuguero; tours run rain or shine. Tour guides can be arranged through your lodging or Costa Rica Roots Tours.

During the tour, you’ll visit the beach as part of a group of up to 10 and wait at a pavilion as a park ranger searches for turtles. Your tour guide will help pass the time by offering tons of information about sea turtle species, life and nesting cycles, and Tortuguero’s conservation efforts. When a turtle is spotted, you’ll be invited to get closer to the creature and witness its nesting behaviors with the help of a special light. Photographing the turtles is prohibited. Plan to wear dark clothing during the nighttime event; light colors are distracting and can disrupt the turtles’ nesting cycles.

Hiking

It is possible to explore the park by land, but doing so is less impressive than exploring the area’s canals.

Cuatro Esquinas Sector

The best hiking route through the Cuatro Esquinas Sector, which provides an easy walk through the rainforest and passes various access points to Playa Tortuguero, explores parts of two flat trails: Sendero El Gavilán and Sendero Jaguar. From the sector’s entrance, take Sendero El Gavilán for 400 m (0.25 mi) until it meets Sendero Jaguar. Then, stroll along Sendero Jaguar, a 2.5-km (1.5-mi) linear trail that runs parallel to the beach, for as long as you like or as long as you can withstand the park’s notorious humidity. (Two hours is plenty of time to get a feel for the sector and see some of its more social wildlife, including monkeys and toucans.) When you’re ready to leave, retrace your footsteps and exit the park through the entrance. The trail is often impassable due to flooding, so be sure to verify access through your hotel or the ranger station before setting out. When it’s open, the trail could still be muddy, and rubber boots are a must, if not to help you maneuver the treacherous terrain, at least to help guard against rare but possible snake bites. Boots can be rented at the trail entrance.

Cerro Tortuguero Sector

For a physical challenge and a gratifying reward, explore the Cerro Tortuguero Sector. Make the sweaty climb up the more than 400 concrete steps built into the rainforest-wrapped Cerro Tortuguero (Tortuguero Hill) to reach the sector’s main attraction: an observation deck with an unrivaled sweeping view of the Caribbean Sea, Laguna Tortuguero, a distant Tortuguero Village, and the park’s three sectors. A short, flat, unnamed forest trail connects the base of the steps with two boat docks, on opposite sides of the hill, that are used to welcome visitors from Tortuguero Village or area hotels. Give yourself at least two hours to explore the sector; the boat ride is roughly 20 minutes each way, and you’ll want an hour, if not more time, to scale the hill and take in the view at the top.

Getting There

Technically, to reach Tortuguero is to reach the park, since the protected land encompasses the area. You may travel within the park’s limits, however, by boat or on foot. You can hike to some hotels north of the village, but it’s not safe to make the trip alone. If you plan to stay at a hotel separated from the village by water, you can hire a boat captain at the Almendro Dock or the Los Pajaros Dock to take you wherever you need to go. Boat trips run $3-6 pp (cash only), depending on which lodging you choose. Hotel staff can call a captain to their property if you need to head into town.

The Cuatro Esquinas Sector, marked by a ranger station, is at the south end of Tortuguero Village and within walking distance of nearly everything else in the tiny town.

The Cerro Tortuguero Sector is 5.5 km (3.4 mi) north of Tortuguero Village and reached by boat. Public boats travel between the hill and the Almendro Dock several times a day ($7 pp, cash only); ask one of the boat captains at the dock for the day’s schedule. Private boat rides ($20 pp, cash only) can also be arranged.

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca and Vicinity

Where Highway 32 ends, just shy of the Caribbean Sea at the port city of Limón, it meets Highway 36, a coastal route that runs the length of the southern Caribbean. Most travelers on Highway 36 are headed for the popular Caribbean beach town of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca (not to be confused with the inland destination Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, 140 km/87 mi northwest of Limón), called Puerto Viejo for short.

Puerto Viejo, the center of Afro-descendant culture in Costa Rica, is where the Caribbean coast’s Jamaican influence is most evident. It’s also a laid-back beach town by day and a lively party town by night. This is a place that appears rather indifferent to tourism and lacks sightseeing attractions—and that’s just how locals like it. The primary draw to this hub of the southern Caribbean isn’t something you’ll see; it’s what you’ll feel. Nourish yourself with flavorful Caribbean meals and let calypso and reggae music move your bones. Appreciate Afro-descendant culture like a Rasta. Learn from the legend Bob Marley (who is worshipped to no end in Puerto Viejo), and “don’t worry . . . about a thing.”

Road 256 is the town’s main drag for roughly 2 km (1.2 mi), paralleling the Caribbean Sea much of the way before the road continues southeast along the coast toward the village of Manzanillo.

PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA

Puerto Viejo is a popular choice among free-spirited easygoing travelers, but it isn’t for everybody. The laid-back lifestyle doesn’t move quickly. Service in restaurants, shops, and hotels is typically less attentive and slower than what you’ll get in beach towns along the Pacific coast. But that’s part of Puerto Viejo’s charm. The carefree attitude felt in this town sets it apart from the rest of the country, making this corner of Costa Rica the perfect place to de-stress, blend in with locals, and appreciate some of life’s simplest pleasures: joy, flavor, rhythm, and love.

Roots, Reggae, and Rastas

In the late 1800s, thousands of Jamaicans came to Costa Rica and settled in Limón as railway workers. Much of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca’s current population are descendants of the group, as are the southern Caribbean communities of Limón, Cahuita, and Manzanillo.

Reggae music ties Afro-descendants to their Jamaican roots. You can’t tour Puerto Viejo’s center without hearing a Bob Marley tune or music from another reggae artist. You’ll spot flags, towels, and souvenirs with the singer-songwriter’s face on them. Reggae is like religion on the Caribbean coast, and for many who identify as Rastafarians (“Rastas” for short), that’s exactly what it represents. Reggae lyrics often preach Rastafarianism (also known as “Rastafari”), a Jamaican religion established in the 1930s that gained momentum with the international success of Marley (1945-1981), a well-known ambassador of the faith. Puerto Viejo abounds with Rastas who practice the religion.

In Rastafari, ganja (marijuana) is considered a spiritual and healing substance. It’s believed to cleanse the body and mind, bestow wisdom upon users, and, according to biblical references, award a closer connection to Jah (God). The smoking of ganja is ever-present and obvious in the Caribbean. While you’re walking around Puerto Viejo, you may be offered a toke or two. Remember: The sale and purchase of marijuana is illegal in Costa Rica, regardless of its presence in the Caribbean. It’s okay to politely decline any offers and continue on your way.

Beaches

Playa Puerto Viejo

Playa Puerto Viejo (Puerto Viejo Beach), the narrow coastline that spans much of the town of Puerto Viejo, comprises several small neighboring beaches interspersed among businesses, rocky outcrops, and green zones. In most areas, the sand is awash with debris, fishing boats occupy part of the water, and the waves can be rough. If you must swim or sunbathe in town, the best place is along Avenida 73 between Calle 215 and Calle 217, where locals kick back on a clean 100-m (109-yd) stretch of sand under tall palms. To enjoy picturesque beaches and more pleasant swims in the area, head east of town to any one of the beautiful beaches that line the Caribbean coast from Playa Cocles to Manzanillo.

Playa Negra

Alternately, you can travel 1.5 km (0.9 mi) west of downtown Puerto Viejo to Playa Negra (not to be confused with the Playa Negra northwest of Cahuita), a long dark-sand beach that you’re likely to find empty. Apart from a sprinkling of accommodations and restaurants set back from the water, you won’t find amenities on this beach. Visitors overlook the spot in favor of stretches of coastline with silkier sand that can be found northwest and southeast of the area. Still, if all you want is to take a dip in the sea with little distraction, hire a taxi, hop on a bike, or walk out to Playa Negra from Puerto Viejo and jump in.

Local Guides and Tours

Exploradores Outdoors

Road 256, 85 m (279 ft) east of Salsa Brava Beach Restaurant and Bar; tel. 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com; 7:30am-9pm daily

Exploradores Outdoors is one of Puerto Viejo’s most reliable, safe, and professional tour operators. The company uses top-of-the-line equipment, employs a well-trained team of tour guides, and delivers experiences that are fun and cost-efficient. While best known for white-water rafting excursions on Río Pacuare, its Caribbean operation offers trips to Tortuguero, snorkeling and hiking tours in Parque Nacional Cahuita, and kayak tours at Punta Uva, southeast of Puerto Viejo. The rafting tours and Tortuguero trips are city-to-city transportation-inclusive tours that provide onward transportation to San José, Alajuela, Turrialba, La Fortuna, or Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí. Round-trip transportation to and from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca or nearby Cahuita can also be provided. Transportation fees are included in the cost of the tours.

Surfing

The Caribbean region isn’t known for stupendous surf, but there are a handful of wicked waves. The best is Salsa Brava, a right-hand reef break that’s a short paddle off the coast from Puerto Viejo. Best attempted by seasoned surfers, the powerful break (the name translates to “angry sauce”) offers a full-speed, narrow, and gnarly ride. Besides common risks like riptides and undertows, the shallow break barrels over rocks and sharp coral reef. Surfers are spit out bloodied and bruised, yet the spot is one of the Caribbean coast’s most crowded. Expect long lines and respect your fellow surfers by curbing your drop-ins; most are locals who have surfed the break for years and have earned priority. Novice participants should head 2.5 km (1.5 mi) south to the beach break at Playa Cocles, where less challenging surf awaits over a soft sandy seabed.

Nonsurfers find it fun to play in Salsa Brava’s residual waves as they roll into shore. Grab a boogie board from one of many rental shops in town or try bodysurfing. Local children surf with bikes, pedaling their two-wheelers into the sea.

Caribbean Surf School

Calle 217, 50 m (164 ft) northwest of Road 256; tel. 506/8357-7703; www.puertoviejosurfandtours.com; 9am-6pm daily

Although local surfers offering lessons are a dime a dozen in Puerto Viejo, the go-to guys are Hershel Lewis Gordon and his crew at the Caribbean Surf School. They stand out with their patience, professionalism, and passion for surfing. Choose from three types of surf lessons (8am and 3pm daily; 2 hours): group (3-4 students per instructor; $60 pp), semi-private (2 students per instructor; $70 pp), or private (1 student per instructor; $80 pp). Each lesson includes the use of a surfboard and rash guard.

Zip-Lining

Terraventuras

Road 256 at Calle 213; tel. 506/2750-0750; www.terraventuras.com; 7am-7pm Mon.-Sat.

If you have a need for speed while visiting the Caribbean, contact Terraventuras, one of Puerto Viejo’s most reputable tour operators. Established in 1998, the company employs professional and informative tour guides. Its Canopy Tour (8am and 1pm daily; 4 hours; $59 adults, $29.50 ages 4-11; min. age 4) was one of the first zip-line experiences I had in Costa Rica, and it still does not disappoint. Thirteen cables glide over indigenous plants and through primary forest in the foothills of the Cordillera de Talamanca (Talamanca mountain range). The best part of the tour is the exhilarating freefall from a tree platform in the middle of the rainforest. For an extra fee ($12 pp), you can experience the forward-facing thrill of a Superman cable.

White-Water Rafting

Exploradores Outdoors

Road 256, 85 m (279 ft) east of Salsa Brava Beach Restaurant and Bar; tel. 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com; 7:30am-9pm daily

Puerto Viejo’s own Exploradores Outdoors makes it easy for travelers to experience the country’s most notorious Class III-IV river, the Río Pacuare, a two-hour drive from Puerto Viejo. The outfitter’s full-day Pacuare River Rafting Tour (6:30am daily; 11 hours; $99 pp; min. age 12) is an exciting 30-km (19-mi) rainforest journey that passes through canyons and crosses 38 rapids. On the two-day rafting trips ($239 pp), you’ll brave a total of 49 rapids on a 36-km (22-mi) stretch of the river, and spend a night at the Pacuare River Lodge, in the heart of the rainforest.

Exploradores Outdoors also runs a less intense white-water experience on the Class II-III Río Reventazón (a two-hour drive from Puerto Viejo). The Reventazón River Rafting Tour (6:30am daily; 11 hours; $99 pp; min. age 6) is ideal for families with young children and cruise ship passengers. The trip is shorter than the one on the Pacuare—only 10 km (6.2 mi) of river over nine rapids. Shorter trips can be arranged for cruise ship passengers with limited shore time.

Festivals and Events

Mes Histórico de la Afrodescendencia Negra en Costa Rica

Costa Rican Black Afro-Descendent History Month; August

August 31 is the Día de la Persona Negra y la Cultura Afrocostarricense (Day of the Black Person and Afro-Costa Rican Culture) in Costa Rica. To honor Afro-descendant culture and acknowledge its contributions to the identity and development of the nation, Costa Rica celebrates over the entire month of August. This period is known as the Mes Histórico de la Afrodescendencia Negra en Costa Rica, and it’s a time when concerts, fashion shows, workshops, hair-braiding sessions, sports games, and food festivals enliven the Caribbean coast. Most events take place at sites in Puerto Viejo. The pinnacle of the celebration is the joyous two-day Wolaba Parade, during which locals don traditional dress and dance through Puerto Viejo’s streets. It typically occurs during the last week of August. See the Wolaba Parade’s Facebook page for event dates and locations.

Shopping

Like most popular tourist hubs, Puerto Viejo is riddled with souvenir shops. Some are on the south and east side of the main street (Road 256) as it bends around town, but don’t dismiss the less formal souvenir stands that line the north and west side of the road by the water. Some of the most unique items I’ve come across were spotted on tables set up by street vendors who rely on visitors’ purchases to get by. Most street vendors begin setting up their displays in the late afternoon and sell throughout the evening.

Feria Puerto Viejo

Puerto Viejo Farmers Market; 6am-noon Sat.

Behind the yellow and green Casa de la Cultura (Calle 215 and Road 256), a community hall nicknamed Liberty Hall that was once the residence of Jamaican activist Marcus Garvey, is an L-shaped alley that hosts the town’s weekly produce market Feria Puerto Viejo. Fruits that grow well in the Caribbean and are worth trying at this market include manzanas de agua (water apples; dark-red pear-like fruit), carambolas (star fruit; tough acidic fruit), and guanábanas (soursop; soft, tangy, fibrous fruit). On some afternoons the alley transforms into an arts and crafts market (3pm-8pm Thurs.-Sun.), where artisans peddle a hodgepodge of souvenirs.

Wanderlust

Calle 213, between Road 256 and Avenida 73; tel. 506/8755-7217; 8am-9pm daily

An eclectic gathering of nontraditional souvenirs fills Wanderlust, a travel-themed clothing boutique. The store feature handbags, jewelry, funky articles of clothing that include beachwear, and artwork created by talented local artists. A lot of the merchandise is handmade, predominantly by women.

Food

S Salsa Brava Beach Restaurant and Bar

Road 256, just east of Avenida 69; tel. 506/2750-3196; www.salsabravapuertoviejo.com; 8am-midnight Wed.-Mon.; $5.50-11

The Costa Rican-born chef who runs the kitchen at the Salsa Brava Beach Restaurant and Bar has traveled and studied around the world but chose Puerto Viejo as the location for her restaurant. In doing so, she brought unique fusion cuisine to the town’s culinary scene, incorporating international food and her own Afro-descendant heritage into her cooking. Though not all dishes at this casual beachfront restaurant are vegetarian or vegan, very few contain meat (several have fish or seafood), and there’s a special “Conscious Choice” menu that provides Costa Rican, American, Italian, and Mexican plant-based options.

Cocomar

Calle 215, 35 m (115 ft) northwest of Road 256; tel. 506/2750-3227; noon-9pm Fri.-Wed.; $10.50-13

Steps away from Puerto Viejo’s main street is Cocomar, a small diner that marries delicious Costa Rican food with speedy service. Pop in for a refreshing glass of agua de sapo (a drink of cane sugar, lime, and ginger), or a bowl of the restaurant’s signature ceviche, in which fish and shrimp marinate in the acidity of sweet, tart passion fruit.

Grow

Avenida 75, just north of Calle 215; tel. 506/8621-7337; noon-9pm Mon.-Sat.; $8-15.50

Vegan burritos, tacos, salads, and bowls are merely a few of the healthy options at Grow, a trendy plant-based café from which you can gaze at the sea. This place excels at achieving flavor; the tasty food features Grow’s lineup of homemade vegan sauces (try the creamy Italian sauce created from cashews or the smoky chipotle sauce made from tofu), and the refreshing mocktails—a nutrient-rich, energy-boosting way to beat the Caribbean heat—are built with Grow’s own saporous elixirs.

S Lidia’s Place

Avenida 67 and Calle 217; tel. 506/2750-0598; 12:30pm-8:30pm Tues.-Sun.; $13-23

When in Puerto Viejo, I regularly dine at the authentic Lidia’s Place. This beloved soda (traditional Costa Rican family restaurant) recently vamped up its look but continues to rely on age-old recipes to produce the most flavorful home-cooked meals in the region, most prepared by Lidia, the kind cook. Top dishes include chicken drenched in salsa caribeña (Caribbean sauce), coconut curry shrimp, pargo rojo (red snapper), and coconut rice and beans. Lidia’s sons and other relatives demonstrate warm genuine service that boosts the place from a delicious Caribbean diner to the best traditional-style restaurant in town.

Bars and Nightlife

Caribbean jam is alive and well in Puerto Viejo. There’s no shortage of drinking holes and dance spots in town, but you won’t find swanky clubs here. Most establishments are rough-hewn alfresco spaces on or near the waterfront where you can drink, groove to music, and hang out casually.

Salsa Brava Beach Restaurant and Bar

Road 256, just east of Avenida 69; tel. 506/2750-3196; www.salsabravapuertoviejo.com; 8am-midnight Wed.-Mon.

Kick off your night at the Salsa Brava Beach Restaurant and Bar, which has a killer view of the area’s best surf break. This small place at the waterfront resembles an informal beach hut with a wraparound bar and several stools. On the beach, picnic tables and chairs provide additional seating. Expect a chill vibe, happy hours, DJ sets, and smooth reggae beats that play on repeat. Both alcoholic drinks and nonalcoholic drinks (try the beet-, carrot-, and orange-flavored Happy Rasta!) are served.

Nanku/Clan Vibes

Calle 217, between Road 256 and Avenida 73; tel. 506/8910-6979; Nanku 7am-10pm daily, Clan Vibes 10pm-2am Wed. and Fri.-Sun.

For perfectly constructed mojitos, mules, margaritas, and martinis, don’t miss Nanku. This relaxed restaurant opposite the sea moonlights as a sophisticated cocktail bar. Around 10pm, the place transforms into a thumping club that operates under the name Clan Vibes. Bands, DJs, and neon lights arouse a party atmosphere, but the place feels controlled and as safe as a nightlife venue in a relaxed beach town can be, with security at the entrance. This is the best place for dancing in Puerto Viejo.

Hot Rocks

Road 256 at Calle 217; tel. 506/2100-4507; 10am-2am daily

Longtime local favorite Hot Rocks provides a casual place to hang; the semi-outdoor bar feels like a beer garden, thanks to its large open-concept space filled with picnic tables. All kinds of alcoholic beverages are served. They’re best enjoyed while watching one of the bar’s regularly scheduled entertaining events that feature live music, karaoke, free salsa dance lessons, fire dancing shows, and demonstrations of circus arts. Some early-evening events are family-friendly.

Green Jaguar

Avenida 69, between Calle 217 and Calle 219; tel. 506/6062-9988; 4pm-11pm Mon.-Sat.

Despite the glaring, intimidating eyes of the giant jaguar painted on its wall, the Green Jaguar is a comfortable place to grab drinks. Irish stout and shots and cocktails featuring Irish whiskey or Irish cream put the Irish in this pub, where barrels serve as bar tables. The pub also has Imperial, Costa Rica’s most beloved beer, on tap. Musicians sometimes perform on the small corner stage.

Accommodations

Puerto Viejo’s best accommodations are south of Road 256, on or just off the quiet back roads of Avenidas 67 and 69. Tucked away from the bustle of the main street, these spots remain within walking distance of restaurants, bars, shops, and other services. Additional lodging options can be found on the eastern outskirts of Puerto Viejo, between Playa Cocles and Manzanillo, a short drive or taxi, tuk-tuk, or bike ride from town.

El Clan Hostel

Avenida 69, between Calle 217 and Calle 219; tel. 506/6374-1221; www.elclanhostel.com; dorm $30 pp, private $70 s/d; adults only

Occupying prime property that previously belonged to one of Puerto Viejo’s best hotels, El Clan Hostel (formerly Casa Verde Lodge) has big shoes to fill. Fortunately, the place still feels like its own little oasis in downtown Puerto Viejo, off the main street and tucked away in thick tropical vegetation that nearly encloses the rooms, boosting privacy. Many rooms have been converted to six-bed dorms with bunks; the rest are private standard rooms that sleep 1-6 guests. Use of towels and the on-site pool is free, but the best perk of all is the air-conditioning in every room, including the dorms. Although the hostel doesn’t have a wild vibe, it is adjacent to a pub, so don’t expect a serene stay.

Indalo Jungle & Beach Hotel

Calle 219, 75 m (246 ft) southeast of Avenida 67; tel. 506/2750-0826; www.indalohotel.com; $105 s/d

For an affordable adults-only lodging, look to the lovely Indalo Jungle & Beach Hotel. This intimate one-story boutique hotel impresses guests with its amiable staff and large, tidy, air-conditioned rooms (each sleeps 1-3) that have pool-facing terraces. Thick tropical vegetation completely encloses the hotel, creating a quiet, private place to rest where you’ll forget you’re in the middle of one of the most visited destinations in the Caribbean.

S Umāmi Hotel

southern end of Calle 219; tel. 506/2750-3200; www.umamihotel.com; $185 s/d

Luxury in downtown Puerto Viejo is practically nonexistent, but the adults-only Umāmi Hotel is changing the scene. Twelve modern rooms with a comfortable king or queen bed, tile floors, high-end furniture, rain showerheads, air-conditioning, and designer finishes like Indigenous-style wall art and sculptures create an aura of elegance in each room and encourage relaxation. The outstanding pool area has roofed cabanas with mattresses and lounge chairs with umbrellas. At night, the place sparkles in soft lighting and is ultraromantic. Breakfast is included in the rate.

Information and Services

The Centro de Especialidades Médicas San Gabriel (Calle 213, 100 m/109 yd southeast of Road 256; tel. 506/2750-0848; 8am-5pm daily) is the town’s clinic. It has a pharmacy on-site. Nearby Hone Creek has another clinic, Ebais Hone Creek (Hwy. 36 and Road 256, 6 km/3.7 mi west of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca; tel. 506/2756-8024; 24 hours daily). The hospital that serves most of the Caribbean is Hospital Tony Facio Castro (Paseo Dr. Rubén Umaña Chavarría, 1 km/0.6 mi north of the cruise dock, Limón; tel. 506/2758-2222; 24 hours daily) in Limón. It is a 60-km (37-mi), one-hour drive northwest of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

The concentrated center of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca has a post office (Road 256 at Calle 211; tel. 506/2750-0404; 8:30am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-noon Sat.), laundromats, and supermarkets. Two banks with ATMs are located near the corner of Road 256 and Calle 211; one is Banco Nacional (tel. 506/2212-1212; 8:30am-3:45pm Mon.-Fri., ATM 5am-midnight daily).

Surprisingly, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca does not have a police station. Upon entering town, a tourist police office (Road 256 where it bends at the beach; tel. 506/2600-3199; 24 hours daily) has officers available to assist foreign travelers. The closest official police station (Bribri; tel. 506/2751-0003; 24 hours daily) is 13 km (8.1 mi) southwest of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca in the community of Bribri.

Getting There

Car

Travelers arrive at Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, a popular coastal destination, from all over the country. From San José, Puerto Viejo is a 215-km (133-mi), four-hour drive east on Highway 32, southeast on Highway 36, and east on Road 256. From Liberia, it’s a 410-km (255-mi), seven-hour drive east on Highway 1, Road 142, Highway 4, and Highway 32, southeast on Highway 36, and east on Road 256. From La Fortuna, the almost five-hour drive is 270 km (165mi) east on Road 142, Highway 4, and Highway 32, then southeast on Highway 36 and east on Road 256. From Cahuita, Puerto Viejo is just 15 km (9.3 mi) southeast on Highway 36 and east on Road 256, a 15-minute drive.

Private Transfer Service

A reliable option for private transfer services to the Caribbean region is Exploradores Outdoors (Road 256, 85 m/279 ft east of Salsa Brava Beach Restaurant and Bar; tel. 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com; 7:30am-9pm daily). This company offers service to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca from San José, La Fortuna, and Turrialba, as well as destinations within the Caribbean region from Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí to Manzanillo. Expect to pay around $250 from San José.

Must-Try Caribbean Dishes

The pristine beaches on Costa Rica’s Pacific coast steal much of the country’s spotlight, but where the Caribbean shines is in the kitchen. Caribbean cooking relies on freshly grated coconut milk, spices, and homemade sauces.

You can taste the difference for yourself by trying any of the following dishes typically served on the Caribbean coast.

• Coconut rice and beans: Rice and beans is the Caribbean’s take on the rest of the country’s gallo pinto (a traditional rice-and-bean blend), although the grain and protein are sometimes served separately on the plate. The major difference between the two? The rice is cooked in coconut milk, so it’s sweeter and a bit softer than regular rice. Much like casado (a traditional dish of rice and beans, accompanied by a variety of side dishes), coconut rice and beans is regularly enjoyed with meat and vegetables on the side.

• Rondón: Essentially fish soup, this slow-cooked stew also has vegetables, coconut milk, and curry powder. The result is a creamy, flavorful bowl of piping hot goodness. Another name for the soup, cited on some menus, is run down.

• Jerk marinades and salsa caribeña: Caribbean food is rarely bland because it’s often doused in delicious dressings. Jamaican-style jerk comes in a variety of flavors, but it’s typically a smoky and spicy blend. My personal favorite, salsa caribeña (Caribbean sauce) is a slightly sweet brown sauce that looks like watered-down gravy. Both sauces are commonly rubbed on or poured over chicken, beef, and fish.

• Patís and plantintás: The small, turnover-style snacks known as patís (also referred to as patties) are perfect if you’re on the go. They’re filled with either meat or fruit and can be baked or fried. Plantintás (plantain tarts) are like patís but only ever filled with fried plantains.

• Pan bon: Roadside stalls along Highway 32 sell pan bon. The dark sweet bread is a local delicacy. Ingredients like coconut, cinnamon, and nutmeg are typical, but some varieties feature nuts and dried fruit.

• Agua de sapo and sorrel: Ignore the off-putting translation (toad water): Agua de sapo (sometimes called hiel) is a delicious drink. The potent concoction of ginger, lime, and tapa de dulce (unrefined cane sugar) is part sweet and part sour. Sorrel, made from hibiscus flowers, also has a strong flavor; it’s part zesty, part spicy, and sometimes mixed with alcohol. Both drinks will help clear your palate after a plateful of flavorful Caribbean food.

Shared Shuttle Service

Caribe Shuttle (Road 256 and Calle 213; tel. 506/2750-0626; www.caribeshuttle.com; 8am-8pm daily) is your best bet for shared shuttle services to and within the Caribbean region. It provides service to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca from all corners of Costa Rica, as well as from destinations in Panama and Nicaragua. The company knows the Caribbean inside and out and can provide you with helpful information while you’re in transport. Well-known San José-based shuttle provider Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com) also services the Caribbean region. With either company, you can catch a shuttle to Puerto Viejo from San José or La Fortuna. Interbus also runs routes from Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí. Prices for these shuttles range $50-60 pp from San José. If you fly to the region, you can use Caribe Shuttle’s airport shuttle service ($30 pp) to travel between the airport in Limón and Puerto Viejo.

Organized Tour

Exploradores Outdoors (Road 256, 85 m/279 ft east of Salsa Brava Beach Restaurant and Bar; tel. 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com; 7:30am-9pm daily) offers Río Pacuare white-water rafting trips and multiday Tortuguero expeditions with post-tour onward transportation. These tours can be arranged to include a pickup from your hotel in San José, Alajuela, Turrialba, La Fortuna, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, or Cahuita, then a drop-off at your hotel in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

Bus

The regional bus station in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is by the water on Avenida 73 at Calle 213. You cannot miss it; the open-air station is one of Costa Rica’s most colorful. You can reach Puerto Viejo de Talamanca by bus from San José, Limón, Cahuita, and Manzanillo. Make sure you board a bus to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, not Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí. You may see Puerto Viejo de Talamanca referred to as “Puerto Viejo de Limón” or “Puerto Viejo del Caribe” at stations, on tickets and schedules, or on signs on the buses themselves.

Getting Around

Downtown Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is small and best explored on foot or by bike. Tuk-tuks (a motorized rickshaw) can also help you get around, especially if you’re headed to attractions or beaches east of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca between Playa Cocles and Manzanillo. Parked tuk-tuk drivers can usually be found beside Hot Rocks bar. Rental vehicles are welcome, but there aren’t a ton of great options for parking (especially overnight), unless you select a lodging with a secure or private lot.

Bike rentals are everywhere you turn in town, so you’ll never find yourself without means to get around. Prices vary, but you shouldn’t pay more than $10-15 per day. Some hotels provide complimentary bikes for guest use.

PLAYA COCLES TO MANZANILLO

East of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, splendid light-sand beaches stretch for 13 km (8.1 mi) along the coast, from Playa Cocles and Playa Chiquita to Punta Uva, Playa Arrecife, and eventually Playa Grande at the village of Manzanillo. The southern Caribbean coast’s highest-quality accommodations and restaurants, plus a handful of noteworthy attractions, line Road 256, which provides a direct path to each of the five areas. Where the road ends in Manzanillo, a forest trail begins, inviting visitors to explore the rainforest and wetlands of the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo (Gandoca-Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge).

Sights

S Jaguar Rescue Center

GOOGLE MAP

Road 256, 4 km (2.5 mi) southeast of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca at Playa Cocles; tel. 506/2750-0710; www.jaguarrescue.foundation; 9am-1pm daily; by guided tour only

One of the area’s most notable attractions, the Jaguar Rescue Center is at the east end of Playa Cocles and the west end of Playa Chiquita. Contrary to its name, the site is commonly devoid of jaguars, although animal intake varies from day to day. Still, there are more than enough other kinds of wildlife here to feast your eyes on: The center usually has 130-200 temporary or permanent residents at any given time.

On average, the rescue center takes in 420-570 birds, reptiles, and mammals each year; about half are released back into the wild. Tour guides provide more information about the center’s operations during the Public Tour (9:30am and 11:30am Mon.-Sat.; 1.5 hours; $26 pp over age 9), an easy walk around the property. You’ll have up-close but safe encounters with an ever-changing collection of species that usually includes monkeys, sloths, crocodiles, snakes, birds, and deer. Wildlife babies, many of them orphaned, are adorable, particularly the baby sloths. Though the center is a great place for kids, the stories behind each rescue—including electrocution, car accidents, attacks by other animals, and illegal trafficking—may upset some children.

The Jaguar Rescue Center may just be the most popular privately owned attraction you can visit along the southern Caribbean coast; crowds are common, so arrive early. Tours stick to a strict schedule, and multiple tour groups, each accompanied by a guide, are shuffled between wildlife exhibits in a timely manner. Although the structured tour feels a bit out of place in the slow-paced Caribbean, it’s a worthwhile experience to help the region’s wildlife. The center is not funded by the government; tour proceeds fuel the center and support its noble cause. While some wildlife-centered tours at other animal rehabilitation facilities focus on showing off their animals, this center prioritizes animal welfare. Visitors cannot pet, handle, or feed the animals.

Ara Manzanillo

500 m (0.3 mi) southeast of Road 256, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) west of Manzanillo; tel. 506/8971-1436; www.aramanzanillo.org; 3pm daily; $20 pp over age 11; by guided tour only

The Caribbean used to be replete with great green macaws, but the development of banana and pineapple plantations, the logging of almendro (almond) trees—the birds’ primary source of food—and trafficking for the illegal pet market have chipped away at the population of this endangered species. Fortunately, conservation efforts are ongoing, and sightings of the birds, although still rare, are becoming more frequent.

One organization that’s working to save the species is Ara Manzanillo. Within the tropical primary rainforest that surrounds Manzanillo, the nonprofit organization operates a small reintroduction station where great green macaws are released into the wild. You won’t find a theme park, luxurious facilities, or hordes of visitors, just a simple lookout point that provides an extraordinary opportunity to watch macaws flying freely around the treetops. At the observation deck, you’ll sit with a tour guide (most of whom are volunteers) who will educate you on the birds’ behaviors and habitats as well as the work carried out by the organization to breed macaws and ready them for release. Other than the thrill of making the steep walk or drive from the main road up 100 m (109 yd) above sea level to the entrance of the station (a 4WD vehicle is recommended but not required), the hour spent chatting with the tour guide and admiring the macaws is a pleasant and relaxing experience. Reservations are required and can be made through the website.

TOP EXPERIENCE

S Caribeans Chocolate Tour

Road 256, 1.5 km (0.9 mi) southeast of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca at Playa Cocles; tel. 506/2750-0504; www.caribeanschocolate.com; 7:30am-6pm Mon.-Sat., 7:30am-4pm Sun.

Some of Costa Rica’s best chocolate comes from the Caribbean region. Taste it for yourself during the chocolate tour (10am and 2pm Mon.-Sat.; 2-2.5 hours; $36 adults, $18 ages 6-12) provided by café and bakeshop Caribeans. During the hands-on tour, you’ll hike up the hill behind the shop to an operating cacao farm and chocolate factory, where a guide will explain how it’s possible to get such smooth and rich dark chocolate from bumpy, bright-yellow cacao pods. What sets this experience apart from other chocolate tours around the country is Caribeans’ focus on farming quality. You can literally taste differences across bars produced with cacao developed in different ways. The fact that fair wages are paid to local cacao farmers—and that an endless supply of organic chocolate samples are provided during the tour—are extra reasons to sign up; walk-ins are welcome. Don’t forget to purchase a drink or dessert from the café before you leave!

Beaches

Few people know that much of the coastline east of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca to Manzanillo is part of the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo. No official refuge entrances exist, and no access fees apply along this stretch, so treat the beaches here as you would any other. Be sure to pack out whatever you bring in to help keep the refuge free of debris.

There is little development on the beaches themselves, but restaurants and the occasional street vendor are spread along Road 256, just south of the coast. No matter which beach you choose, food, drinks, and restrooms are nearby.

Each beach is accessible by car, but there are no official secure parking lots. There is space for a few cars at the back of each beach and along the beach access roads (most depart from Road 256). Don’t leave any valuables in your rental car. Keep it locked at all times.

Playa Cocles

The area’s best sunbathing beach, Playa Cocles is southeast of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, within walking distance of town. You’ll find a mix of swimmers and surfers, with lifeguards keeping a watchful eye, plus beach volleyball nets and plenty of surfboards available to rent. Choose this beach if you want to remain close to town or socialize with other beachgoers. Even though it’s a popular choice, the long, light-brown, sandy beach provides plenty of room to stretch out.

Playa Chiquita

East of Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita is between the headlands of Punta Cocles and Punta Uva. This pristine cove, containing one of my favorite Caribbean beaches, boasts clear waters and sees few visitors. When you’ve had enough of the tropical sun or you tire of wading in the shallow waters, retreat to the line of leafy palms and almendro (almond) trees that backs the beach and provides cooling shade. I’ve had good luck spotting great green macaws around this beach; look for them in the treetops.

Playa Punta Uva and Playa Arrecife

The two crescent beaches that make up Playa Punta Uva are roughly 2.5 km (1.5 mi) east of Playa Chiquita. The fine sand is lovely, but the coral reef offshore is even more beautiful. Swimming and snorkeling around the reef are permitted, provided you cause it no harm. A short nature trail climbs up and over the Punta Uva headland and connects the separate beach areas. Locals colloquially refer to the easternmost beach, arguably the most attractive stretch of the southern Caribbean coast, as Playa Arrecife.

Playa Grande

Fronting the village of Manzanillo (and aptly nicknamed Playa Manzanillo) is Playa Grande. On sunny days, the beach shimmers like gold, and the depths of the Caribbean Sea can be seen through turquoise waters. Don’t expect to have the idyllic place to yourself, as it’s the home beach of the area’s residents. Stick to the east end of the beach if you wish to be close to the village and its handful of restaurants and supermarkets. Backed by a wall of dense vegetation, the west end of the beach is farther away from development. Swimming is best September-October, when favorable weather calms the sea.

Kayaking

Exploradores Outdoors

offices in San José and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca; tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com

A great way to get to know Punta Uva is to tour the area by kayak. Both river kayaking and coastal kayaking opportunities are available; combine the two and you’ll be treated to scenes of rainforest and beach along the way. The guided Punta Uva Sea Kayak and Rainforest Hike (10am daily; 4.5 hours; $59 pp), coordinated by Puerto Viejo de Talamanca’s Exploradores Outdoors, fuses a number of Punta Uva highlights. It includes a paddle in the Caribbean Sea, where you can view coastal cliffs from the water; a paddle up the narrow leaf-lined Río Punta Uva in search of iguanas, monkeys, birds, bats, and sloths; a hike to the area’s best lookout; and transportation to and from Manzanillo-area hotels.

Food

S Take It Easy

Road 256, 2 km (1.2 mi) southeast of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca at Playa Cocles; tel. 506/8919-0819; 11:30am-5pm Sat.-Sun.; $4-11

On weekends, and sometimes on Fridays, you can find the food cart Take It Easy parked along Road 256 in front of Playa Cocles. The cart’s palm-thatched roof, old steel grill, and high-flying Pan-American flag are easy to spot if the tantalizing smell of barbecued meat and coconut-flavored rice and beans doesn’t lure you in. This is Puerto Viejo de Talamanca’s best street food; the flavorful jerk chicken in particular is downright delicious and quite possibly the best in the Caribbean.

Beach Break

Road 256, 1.9 km (1.2 mi) southeast of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca at Playa Cocles; tel. 506/8304-0043; 11am-9pm Tues.-Sun.; $9-19

Don’t be fooled by the ordinary tables and plastic chairs on the sand that belong to Beach Break, a small bohemian-style restaurant across the road from the water. The restaurant creates and plates delicious gourmet food, then delivers it to beachgoers ready to chow down in their beach attire. Capturing the attention of most is the salmon bowl, featuring grilled salmon and caviar, but what won me over are the Beach Break patacones (smashed and fried green plantains). They’re fried in the shape of bowls and filled with tuna tartare and shrimp. The mojitos, too, are to die for!

S Blanca y Selvin’s Restaurante

Road 256, Punta Uva, 7 km (4.3 mi) southeast of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca; tel. 506/2750-0664; www.selvinpuntauva.com; 12:30pm-8pm Thurs.-Sun.; $10-19

Since 1985, Blanca y Selvin’s Restaurante has been serving up some of the best local Caribbean fare, including mouth-watering rondón (seen on the menu as “run down”). The restaurant cooks fresh, flavorful batches of the soup, but they tend to sell out, so go early if you’re determined to get a bowl. Ideal for sampling or introducing children to the local cuisine, some of the signature foods, including the rondón, come in half sizes. For a roadside spot not far from the beach, the laid-back and open-air restaurant is surprisingly clean; service is quick and friendly, and the entire operation feels organized.

El Refugio

Road 256, Punta Uva, 9 km (5.6 mi) southeast of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca; tel. 506/8748-3251; noon-9pm Thurs.-Tues.; $12-22

Splurge on a meal (ideally dinner) at El Refugio. This restaurant exemplifies fine dining on the Caribbean coast: The food is beautifully prepared and presented; the service is above par; and the outdoor, rainforest-clad dining space is comfortable and inviting. The short menu changes from day to day, but the popular steak and tuna tend to be regulars.

Accommodations

Playa 506

Road 256, 2.5 km (1.5 mi) southeast of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Playa Cocles; tel. 506/8593-7485; www.playa506.com; dorm 30-60 pp, private $100-140 s/d

If you’re looking to socialize, head to the beachfront hostel Playa 506. It has a fun energy and a laid-back vibe, and is a great place to grab a beer, play some beach volleyball, catch a movie, and meet new friends. The five dorms (four mixed and one for women only) share baths, have bunk beds, and sleep 3-8 people. The four private rooms (sleep 1-3) have double beds or bunk beds; some have shared baths. The staff are helpful, the sea is steps away, and all rooms but one dorm have air-conditioning—what more could you want?

S Satta Lodge

Calle Ole Caribe, 4 km (2.5 mi) southeast of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Playa Cocles; tel. 506/8308-5834; www.sattalodge.com; $150 s/d

Satta Lodge hides in a jungle-clad part of Playa Cocles, a 1-km (0.6-mi) walk or drive from the beach. Its eight accommodations span bungalows, suites, and a villa (some with air-conditioning) connected by raised boardwalks. Each one blends contemporary and Scandinavian styles, has big windows that take in forest views, provides a calm and comfortable space to unwind, and is ideal for couples, with a king-size bed. Secure parking and the complimentary breakfast, served poolside in a lovely alfresco lounging area with hammocks and a reading nook, make the affordable lodge a valuable find.

S Congo Bongo

Road 256, 12 km (7.5 mi) southeast of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Manzanillo; tel. 506/2759-9016; www.congo-bongo.com; $297 s/d; 3-, 4-, or 5-night min.

Congo Bongo, a collection of eight beautiful vacation homes in the rainforest west of Manzanillo, provides private access to Playa Grande. The homes vary in size and occupancy (sleep 1-7), but all feature an open-air open floor plan that invites harmonious living within nature. Each has a fully equipped kitchen, a private terrace, and a lockable sleeping area. Laundry service is included. For your peace of mind, security cameras aimed at each rental aid in keeping the airy accommodations safe.

Information and Services

Hospital Tony Facio Castro (Paseo Dr. Rubén Umaña Chavarría, 1 km (0.6 mi) north of the cruise dock, Limón; tel. 506/2758-2222; 24 hours daily) in Limón serves most of the Caribbean region. It is a 65-km (40-mi), 70-minute drive northwest of Playa Cocles and a 75-km (47-mi), 90-minute drive northwest of Manzanillo.

Several supermarkets can be found on Road 256 from Playa Cocles to Manzanillo. For additional services, including police services, visit Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

Getting There

Car

The section of the southern Caribbean spanning Playa Cocles to Manzanillo is considered the eastern outskirts of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. You’ll drive through Puerto Viejo de Talamanca first. If you don’t have your own vehicle, most accommodations in the area can pick you up in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca for an extra cost. Alternatively, you can pay extra to have one of the shared shuttle service providers or private transfer service providers that travel to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca drop you off at a destination east of town instead.

From Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Playa Cocles is roughly 3 km (1.9 mi) southeast on Road 256, a five-minute drive. Playa Chiquita is 6 km (3.7 mi) (a 12-minute drive) and Punta Uva is 8.5 km (5.3 mi) (a 15-minute drive) southeast of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. Manzanillo is farthest from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, at 13 km (8.1 mi) (a 20-minute drive) southeast on Road 256.

Bus

You can catch a public bus to Manzanillo from San José, Limón, Cahuita, and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. The bus that travels along Road 256 between Puerto Viejo de Talamanca and Manzanillo provides access to Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita, and Punta Uva.

Getting Around

Road 256 is paved and easy to walk, bike, or drive. If you plan to beach-hop, you’ll appreciate having a rental car. Some hotels provide complimentary bikes for guest use. It’s also possible to rent a bike in nearby Puerto Viejo de Talamanca for roughly $10-15 per day.

REFUGIO NACIONAL DE VIDA SILVESTRE GANDOCA-MANZANILLO

Gandoca-Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge; www.sinac.go.cr; hours vary by sector; free

Much of the southern Caribbean coast south of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca is swathed in a mix of rainforest and wetlands within the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo. The refuge’s 750 acres contain some of the region’s prettiest beaches, abundant and varied wildlife, much of the community of Punta Uva, and the entirety of the laid-back predominantly Afro-descendant community of Manzanillo.

entrance to the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo

The refuge consists of two sectors. The Manzanillo Sector (Road 256 as it enters Manzanillo; tel. 506/2750-0135; 6am-4pm daily, last entry 3pm) is the most visited. It’s easily accessible from Manzanillo and offers a hiking trail that showcases both forest and beautiful beaches.

The Gandoca Sector (8 km/5 mi northeast of Hwy. 36 at Gandoca; tel. 506/8310-0672; 8am-4pm daily) provides access to Playa Gandoca, a small-scale turtle nesting beach that attracts a few researchers. Only a handful of travelers choose to visit this drab dark-gray sand beach. Neither sector has public restrooms.

Safety Concerns

Although the refuge is a well-known tourist attraction, its location at the southernmost end of the Caribbean coast limits the number of visitors it receives. You won’t witness an endless flow of groups passing through, which increases opportunities for solitude—and vulnerability. Robberies have occurred in the area. If you wish to hike to Punta Mona, hire a tour guide who can help you navigate the trail, spot wildlife, and add an additional layer of security on your journey. Local guide Abel Bustamante (tel. 506/8895-7394) specializes in leading tours through the refuge.

Hiking

Sendero Principal

Main Trail; 5.5 km (3.4 mi) one-way; 2 hours; easy-moderate

The refuge has an official entrance near the quiet community of Gandoca that’s rarely accessed by the average traveler. Most people tour the refuge via Manzanillo by following the forest trail at the east end of Playa Grande that picks up after the village road ends. This trail is called the Sendero Principal; it cuts through the refuge’s rainforest and heads straight for Punta Mona (Mona Point), home to one of the Caribbean coast’s most secluded beaches, with nearly white soft sand. Near the start of the hike, you’ll come across a wooden bridge that leads to the edge of Punta Manzanillo (Manzanillo Point), also known as Miss May Point, an escarpment where big waves thunderously crash into the coastline. Traverse the bridge for a postcard-worthy view of the Caribbean Sea at the opposite end. If you don’t want to hike all the way to Punta Mona to access a beach inside the refuge, a beautiful stretch of smooth golden sand lies on the east side of Miss May Point, just beyond the bridge. Exercise caution while swimming at this beach; the sea is often rough.

Getting There

The refuge blankets much of the southeast end of the Caribbean coast. The Manzanillo Sector entrance is at the northeast corner of the village of Manzanillo. You can walk to the entrance if you’re staying in town; otherwise, it is best accessed by car. Another option is to hop on one of the buses that commute between Limón and the village, which picks up passengers as it passes through Cahuita, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, Playa Cocles, Playa Chiquita, and Punta Uva. A small staffed hut at the trailhead in the northeast corner of Manzanillo marks the sector’s entrance. Parking is permitted along either side of Road 256 near the trailhead.

The Gandoca Sector is best accessed by car. The turn-off to the entrance is off Highway 36, about 4 km (2.5 mi) shy of the hamlet of Sixaola and the border with Panama. A small outpost roughly 500 m (0.3 mi) from the beach acts as the sector’s entrance.

CAHUITA

The small walkable beach town of Cahuita, sometimes referred to as a little Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, has a vibe every bit as laid-back and unapologetically slow as life elsewhere along the coast, but it escapes much of the region’s tourism. Like Puerto Viejo, Cahuita exemplifies the strong Jamaican influence that sweeps Costa Rica’s southern Caribbean coast; inhabitants proud of their Afro-descendant roots cook up Caribbean fare, play calypso and reggae music, paint images of legendary figures on business walls, and live by the unifying mantra “one love.” (For more information on the area’s Jamaican influence, see the sidebar Roots, Reggae, and Rastas on click here.) Cahuita’s foremost attraction is the beach- and reef-filled easy-to-trek Parque Nacional Cahuita at the east end of town.

If you’re just here to visit the park, you’ll need to set aside only a few hours. If you want to devote more time to relaxing on the beach, you could spend anywhere from a day to an entire week here.

In the middle of the community, Cahuita’s main intersection (two blocks northwest of the entrance to the national park’s Playa Blanca Sector) is a commonly cited point of reference.

Beaches

Playa Negra

Northwest of Cahuita center is Playa Negra (Negra Beach), not to be confused with the Playa Negra immediately west of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca. This is Cahuita’s principal beach, a 1-km (0.6-mi), five-minute drive from the center of the village. The dark-sand beach is surprisingly smooth and sinks gently into shallow waters. Big waves offshore churn up Cahuita’s best surf. Gentler waves near the shoreline are decent for swimming, especially along the section of beach that fronts an establishment known as the Reggae Bar.

Local Guides and Tours

Willie’s Tours

1 block northwest of Cahuita’s main intersection; tel. 506/2755-1024; www.williestourscostarica.com; 8am-7pm Mon.-Sat., 8am-10am Sun.

If you’re based in Cahuita and unsure what to do in the Caribbean, reach out to the helpful folks at Willie’s Tours. The staff are well versed on everything Cahuita and offer a ton of great local tours—most notably national park tours and Indigenous community visits. Guides are enthusiastic about the activities and ready to please.

Festivals and Events

Festival Internacional de Calypso

The Panama-born, Cahuita-raised King of Calypso, Walter Ferguson, is acknowledged every year in mid-July during the multiday Festival Internacional de Calypso (International Calypso Festival). Roadside concerts led by energetic calypso bands fill the streets with melodies perfect for dancing. I dare you not to twist your hips, clap your hands, and give in—at least momentarily—to the event’s sweet sounds, synonymous with the coast. More than just great fun, the festival pays homage to calypso’s Caribbean roots and celebrates Cahuita’s contribution to the genre by way of its local legend. See the festival’s Facebook page for more information about specific events. A sculpture (by Minor Mena López) of Walter Ferguson strumming his guitar can be seen in the park at Cahuita’s main intersection.

Food

Delrita Patty

50 m (164 ft) northeast of Soda Kawe; tel. 506/2755-0032; 10am-5pm Thurs.-Tues., or until the patties sell out; $1.75 each, cash only

Jamaican influence thrives in Cahuita, so it’s no surprise that traditional Jamaican patties do too. Often showing up on local menus as patís, the savory turnovers (stuffed with meat, pineapple, or plantain) make inexpensive and filling snacks, perfect for day trips to the national park. You can pick them up from Delrita Patty, a third-generation family business that also goes by the name The Patty Stand. The patties are Cahuita’s best street food.

S Soda Kawe

main street, 100 m (109 yd) northwest of the park entrance to the Playa Blanca Sector; tel. 506/2755-0233; 5:30am-7pm daily; $6-14

Named after the native kawe tree from which Cahuita’s moniker—originally Kawe-Ta—was derived is Soda Kawe. This is one of my preferred restaurants in town, thanks to its yummy Caribbean food cooked over a fire. Hearty breakfast options and fruit batidos (smoothies) are great for starting off your day; a plate of coconut rice and beans with chicken or fish is my go-to lunch order. If you struggle to find an available picnic table inside the small bare-bones restaurant, grab a stool and sit at the bar that fronts the property.

Aroma Coffee Bar & Food

downtown Cahuita, just north of the bus station; tel. 506/8950-6661; 8am-6pm Fri.-Wed.; $8-12

For American favorites, like burgers, sandwiches, and wraps, you cannot beat the food selection and quality at Aroma Coffee Bar & Food. All the meal options—several of them excellent choices for vegetarians or vegans—are worth a taste, as are the coffees, smoothies, and scrumptious desserts. The relaxing music, outdoor patio setting, and stack of board games are much appreciated extras.

S Cahuita’s Taste

150 m (164 yd) southwest of main street, 400 m (0.25 mi) northwest of the park entrance to the Playa Blanca Sector; tel. 506/8484-8107; noon-8pm Mon.-Sat.; $7-16

A hidden gem off Cahuita’s main street is Cahuita’s Taste. As its name suggests, the restaurant is a great place to savor Caribbean food and drink. All kinds of popular traditional dishes are served, but part of what makes this place special are the delicacies that aren’t commonly sold at other restaurants. Nosh on plantintás or pan bon, and try the tangy drink sorrel to discover new flavors and deepen your understanding of the local cuisine. This restaurant also makes Cahuita’s best rondón, and although you might not think to order pasta at a Caribbean restaurant, it has a flavor-packed pasta dish called the Rasta Pasta that is out of this world.

Bars and Nightlife

Barhopping around small-scale Cahuita is easy and mostly safe on foot if you stick to bars along the main street.

Coco’s Bar

at Cahuita’s main intersection; tel. 506/2755-0437; 10am-10pm Mon.-Fri., 10am-2:30am Sat., 10am-midnight Sun.

As the sun goes down on the southern Caribbean, the music gets turned up at art-wrapped Coco’s Bar, where locals and foreigners dance well into the morning on a deck-board dance floor under the glimmer of a disco ball.

Bar & Restaurante Ricky’s

at Cahuita’s main intersection; tel. 506/2755-0305; 11am-10pm daily

Across the street, Bar & Restaurante Ricky’s competes with happy hours and is a great place to catch Ticos engaging in a much-loved pastime: rounds of dominoes.

El Cangrejo Loco

40 m (131 ft) northwest of Willie’s Tours; tel. 506/8822-3844; 3pm-10pm Sat.-Thurs.

The casual restaurant El Cangrejo Loco has live music and an endless happy hour with two-for-one drinks.

Reggae Bar

1.3 km (0.8 mi) west of Cahuita’s main intersection; tel. 506/8812-4395; noon-11pm daily

Across from the sea at Playa Negra, with a chill vibe and red, yellow, and green decor, Reggae Bar also has live music, typically performed by a reggae band, and sometimes DJs and dancing. Drive or take a taxi to Reggae Bar to avoid walking on the outskirts of town, especially at night.

Accommodations

Cabinas Cahuita

100 m (109 yd) east of the bus station; tel. 506/2755-1154; $45 s/d

Staying at Cabinas Cahuita feels like you’re on a homestay in a Caribbean casa (house). The small hotel’s six rooms are close to one another and share access to a fully equipped kitchen and a comfortable common area (some rooms also share an entrance and a bath). Rooms provide one or two full beds and air-conditioning, and the gated entrance helps the entire place feel secure. Best of all is the property’s location in the heart of town, steps away from nearly everything that Cahuita has to offer.

S El Encanto

on the road to Playa Negra, 150 m (164 yd) east of La Union; tel. 506/2755-0113; www.elencantocahuita.com; $111 s/d

I like El Encanto because it offers decent value and a pleasurable stay. The two-story boutique hotel has 11 rooms amply furnished with beds, wardrobes, desks, end tables, safes, and fans. Two pools (one saltwater) and outdoor lounge areas are set among the property’s attractive landscaping of palms and other tropical plants. Slump in a hammock or a chair on your room’s terrace and enjoy the oasis-like feel of the fully enclosed hotel. Kind hosts add to the quality of the experience.

Information and Services

The town’s clinic, Ebais Cahuita (tel. 506/2755-0383; 7am-4pm Mon. and Wed.-Fri.), is just west of Cahuita’s mini-mall and bus station. Hospital Tony Facio Castro (Paseo Dr. Rubén Umaña Chavarría, 1 km (0.6 mi) north of the cruise dock, Limón; tel. 506/2758-2222; 24 hours daily), serving most of the Caribbean, is in Limón. It is a 45-km (28-mi), 45-minute drive northwest of Cahuita.

Cahuita has a handful of supermarkets, laundromats, and a police station (north end of town, road to Playa Negra; tel. 506/2755-0217; 24 hours daily). Just north of Highway 36 on the main road into town, the mini-mall and bus station have a post office (tel. 506/2755-0096; 8am-noon and 1pm-5pm Mon.-Fri.), a pharmacy, known as Farmacia Cahuita (tel. 506/2755-0505; 9am-5pm Mon.-Sat.), and Cahuita’s only bank, Banco de Costa Rica (9am-4pm Mon.-Fri.), which has an ATM (5am-midnight daily).

Getting There

Car

From San José, Cahuita is a 200-km (124-mi) drive east on Highway 32 and southeast on Highway 36, which takes around 3 hours and 45 minutes. From Liberia, Cahuita is 395 km (245 mi) east on Highway 1, Road 142, Highway 4, and Highway 32, and southeast on Highway 36, a drive that takes approximately 7 hours. From La Fortuna, the drive is 255 km (160 mi) east on Road 142, Highway 4, and Highway 32, and southeast on Highway 36; it’s a 4.5-hour journey. From Limón, Cahuita is a 45-km (28-mi), 45-minute drive southeast on Highway 36. From Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, it’s just 15 km (9.3 mi), a 15-minute drive west on Road 256 and northwest on Highway 36.

Private Transfer Service

Exploradores Outdoors (tel. 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com; 7:30am-9pm daily) can deliver you to Cahuita from San José, La Fortuna, and Turrialba, as well as destinations within the Caribbean region from Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí to Manzanillo on one of its private transfer services. Prices hover around $250 from San José.

Shared Shuttle Service

Caribe Shuttle provides shared shuttle services to Cahuita, as does Interbus (tel. 506/4100-0888; www.interbusonline.com). Both companies cover routes to Cahuita from San José and La Fortuna. Additionally, Interbus provides service from Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí. Prices for these shuttles range $50-60 pp from San José. If you need transportation from the airport in Limón to Cahuita, take Caribe Shuttle’s airport shuttle service ($30 pp).

Organized Tour

Exploradores Outdoors (offices in San José and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca; tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com) offers Río Pacuare white-water rafting trips and multiday Tortuguero expeditions with post-tour onward transportation. These tours can be arranged to include a pickup from your hotel in San José, Alajuela, Turrialba, La Fortuna, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, or Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, then a drop-off at your hotel in Cahuita.

The Bribri People

On the west side of Highway 36, 20 km (12.4 mi) south of Cahuita and 13 km (8.1 mi) southwest of Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, the small inland village of Bribri serves as a gateway to several Indigenous communities. The majority of the Caribbean’s Indigenous population, who are primarily members of the Bribri Indigenous group, reside in reserves spread out around the foothills of the Cordillera de Talamanca.

The hardworking, remote group is largely self-sufficient. They survive by hunting for meat and fish, growing their own food (mainly corn, beans, bananas, plantains, and cassava), and trading cacao to chocolatiers for cash. Their earnings help the development of clinics, schools, and community centers, which in turn help sustain the communities themselves.

VISITING INDIGENOUS RESERVES

Many group members welcome the economic boost that tourism provides to Indigenous reserves. Families in several communities—including Yorkin, Watsi, Shiroles, and Amubri, among others—take turns working with local outfitters to host tour groups and provide cultural presentations that demonstrate the group’s way of life.

Experiences vary; with some tours you can see how cacao is processed, visit a local waterfall, try archery, take an Indigenous cooking class or Bribri dialect class, learn about medicinal plants, or participate in a purification ceremony performed by one of the group’s doctors. Most visits include a home-cooked meal prepared with crops grown on the reserve. All visits provide an opportunity to interact with the Bribri people on their beloved land.

TOUR OPERATORS

Indigenous community visits require traveling to remote areas of the Caribbean, sometimes via a combination of ground and canoe transportation. Book your experience through an operator familiar with the logistics and known to local groups.

• In Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, the tourism company Life Culture & Travel Costa Rica (Calle 215, 25 m/82 ft southeast of Avenida 73, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca; tel. 506/2750-2158; www.lifeculturetravelcostarica.com; 8am-7pm daily), run by Bribri member and passionate tour guide Tirza Morales Sanchez, offers six different day tours (2-7 hours; $65-188 pp) that allow you to choose the experiences you want to have during your visit to an Indigenous community.

• Another option is the Cahuita-based tour operator Willie’s Tours (1 block northwest of the main intersection, Cahuita; tel. 506/2755-1024; www.williestourscostarica.com), which offers two daylong tours (5-7 hours; $65-85 pp) and two multiday tours (2-3 days; $165-215 pp) that permit overnight stays on a reserve.

Bus

The regional bus station in Cahuita is at the entrance to town, 500 m (0.3 mi) east of Highway 36. You can reach Cahuita by public bus from San José, Limón, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, and Manzanillo.

Getting Around

Tiny Cahuita is easily explored on foot, but you may prefer to rent a bike if you plan to travel often between the town’s center and Playa Negra, a distance of 1.5 km (0.9 mi). Rent a bike from operators in downtown Cahuita; don’t pay more than $10 per day.

S PARQUE NACIONAL CAHUITA

GOOGLE MAP

Cahuita National Park; www.sinac.go.cr; hours and admission vary by sector

Parque Nacional Cahuita is primarily a marine attraction that protects what remains of the region’s damaged coral reef. The park’s boundaries enclose just 2,700 acres of land but 57,550 acres of water. The site’s tree-laden interior—home to raccoons, sloths, basilisks, birds, and monkeys (look for howler monkeys near the entrance and capuchin monkeys farther into the forest)—is overshadowed by the beautiful light-sand beaches that soften the outer edges of the park. Most visitors enter with a towel and sunscreen in hand, ready to laze the day away on Playa Blanca (Blanca Beach), one of the Caribbean coast’s prettiest stretches of sand.

The park has two sectors: the Playa Blanca Sector (easternmost point of downtown Cahuita; tel. 506/2755-0461; 7am-4pm daily; donation, cash only) and the Puerto Vargas Sector (east of Hwy. 36, 4.5 km/2.8 mi southeast of downtown Cahuita; tel. 506/2755-0302; 8am-4pm daily; $5 pp). A ranger station marks the entrance to each. The Playa Blanca Sector is the most popular, the easiest to access from town, and technically free to enter; however, a $5 pp donation is respectful.

Beaches

Playa Blanca

If you’re bound for the beach, enter via the Playa Blanca Sector, stroll along the sand-swept trail until you find a section of coastline you’d like to station yourself at, and enjoy your stay. Beware of skittish ghost crabs that burrow in the beach; they’re harmless, but the little critters camouflage themselves with the sand and can be startling when they dart out in front of you.

Development along the beach is scarce (restrooms are provided at the sector’s entrance), except for a 180-m (197-yd) wheelchair-accessible path. Built from recycled plastic, the eco-friendly path departs from the ranger station, briefly runs through the forest, crosses the sand, and nearly touches the water. Its construction in 2019 gave Parque Nacional Cahuita the honor of becoming Costa Rica’s first national park with an accessible beach.

Snorkeling

Reefs arc in the waters roughly 500 m (0.3 mi) off Punta Cahuita (Cahuita Point), a 3.5-km (2.2-mi) hike from the entrance of the Playa Blanca Sector and a 5-km (3.1-mi) hike from the entrance of the Puerto Vargas Sector. Punta Cahuita is the park’s peninsula and the site of Costa Rica’s best coral reef. Snorkeling at the spot provides a peek at live coral and two shipwrecks, plus an opportunity to be surrounded by schools of tropical fish.

Nearly every tour company operating from Limón to Manzanillo runs snorkeling tours to the site. Snorkeling without a guide is not permitted, to help preserve the reef. Most tours couple snorkeling with a guided nature walk through the park.

Willie’s Tours

main street, Cahuita, 300 m (328 yd) northwest of the park entrance to the Playa Blanca Sector; tel. 506/2755-1024; www.williestourscostarica.com; 8am-7pm daily

The Snorkeling and Hiking in Cahuita National Park Tour (8:30am daily; 4.5-5 hours; $55 pp) is a best-seller of well-known Cahuita tour operator Willie’s Tours. Catering to those who stay in Cahuita, the tour departs from the office of Willie’s Tours, in the middle of town.

Exploradores Outdoors

offices in San José and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca; tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com

If your base is Puerto Viejo de Talamanca or farther east (between Playa Cocles and Manzanillo), go with the guided Cahuita Snorkeling and Rainforest Hike (7am daily; 5 hours; $59 pp) coordinated by Exploradores Outdoors; it provides complimentary transportation to and from the park.

Hiking

Sendero Principal

Main Trail; 8.5 km (5.3 mi) one-way; 3 hours; moderate

If you dread difficult hikes, you’ll love touring this park. The flat Sendero Principal parallels the coast much of the way and has ample opportunities to rest along the beach or take a refreshing dip in the Caribbean Sea. The first several meters of the trail are wheelchair accessible, providing an opportunity to explore part of the forest and Playa Blanca. If you want to tour the trail’s entirety, you’ll span the park’s two sectors. The section of Sendero Principal that passes through the Puerto Vargas Sector is the least visited and densest, providing your best chance for spotting wildlife. Keep your eyes open for mustard-yellow snakes (venomous eyelash vipers) that inhabit the park.

Given the region’s low elevation and the park’s proximity to the water, floods are an unfortunate but common occurrence. Entrance staff can confirm whether any recent flooding has affected the trail.

Getting There

The park occupies the southeast end of Cahuita. The Playa Blanca Sector entrance is within walking distance of nearly everything in the village. The Puerto Vargas Sector is best accessed by car. The turn-off to the entrance is off Highway 36, about 4.5 km (2.8 mi) southeast of downtown Cahuita.

TOP EXPERIENCE

Wildlife Guide

Land Mammals

SLOTHS

MONKEYS

TAPIRS

WILDCATS

COATIMUNDIS

KINKAJOUS AND OLINGOS

BATS

PECCARIES

ANTEATERS

AGOUTIS AND PACAS

DEER

Marinelife

SEA TURTLES

MAP: TURTLE NESTING SITES

DOLPHINS AND WHALES

SHARKS AND RAYS

FISH

Birds

TOUCANS, ARACARIS, AND TOUCANETS

PARROTS AND MACAWS

QUETZALS AND OTHER TROGONS

BIRDS OF PREY

FLYCATCHERS

HUMMINGBIRDS

MOTMOTS

CURASSOWS AND GUANS

SONGBIRDS

WATERBIRDS

Reptiles and Amphibians

CROCODILES AND CAIMANS

FROGS

GECKOS, IGUANAS, AND LIZARDS

SNAKES

Insects and Arachnids

BUTTERFLIES AND MOTHS

ANTS

SPIDERS AND SCORPIONS

resplendent quetzal.

National parks, biological reserves, and wildlife refuges account for more than a quarter of Costa Rica’s landmass. Dispersed throughout these areas are more than half a million species of mammals, birds, reptiles, amphibians, insects, and other living creatures, making it one of the most biologically diverse places on earth. Immerse yourself in the habitats of some of the world’s most precious and distinctive species. You’ll need to keep your eyes open, but spotting wildlife here is nearly guaranteed.

Do you dream of laying eyes on an elusive wildcat? Watching an endangered species of sea turtle crawl ashore to lay its eggs? Observing multicolored birds take flight, and spotting bright frogs among the foliage? This guide is a selective list of the most interesting wildlife in the country, complete with recommendations for the best places to spot them. Use it to plan your adventures and you just might be rewarded with a life-changing wildlife encounter.

Land Mammals

SLOTHS

If there is one type of animal that draws wildlife-lovers to Costa Rica more than any other, it is the sloth (perezoso), a national symbol of Costa Rica since 2021. Sloths live much of their life in the same area, making it easy for experienced tour guides to know exactly where to find them. If you’re exploring Costa Rica’s forests on your own, look for the cute creatures in cecropia trees, identifiable by their whitewashed bark and large fans of lime-green leaves.

Of Costa Rica’s two sloth species, you’re most likely to come across a three-toed sloth. The species has distinctive dark markings around the eyes like a racoon. Less commonly spotted are two-toed sloths, which have a more pronounced piglike nose. Rather confusingly, both species have three toes on each “foot.” It’s their “hands” that show the difference: Three-toed sloths have three “fingers” on each hand and two-toed sloths have two.

Where to See Them

Fortunately, the sloths, which spend most of their time sleeping or hanging upside down from treetop branches, can be seen all over the country, but especially within the central Pacific coast’s Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. Rescued sloths reside at several wildlife centers, including the Proyecto Asis Wildlife and Sloth Rescue Center near La Fortuna, the sloth habitat at Selvatura Park in Monteverde, La Paz Waterfall Gardens in the Poás region, the Diamante Eco Adventure Park on the northern Pacific coast, and the Jaguar Rescue Center on the Caribbean coast.

MONKEYS

Three experiences are practically guaranteed in Costa Rica—you’ll be served rice and beans, you’ll encounter the slogan pura vida, and you’ll see or hear a monkey (mono). Although spotting wildlife is unpredictable, monkeys are everywhere in the country. The Osa Peninsula is one of few parts of Costa Rica where all four monkey species reside.

Capuchin Monkeys

The most commonly spotted species is the social (and sometimes aggressive) white-headed capuchin monkey, colloquially referred to as white-faced monkeys, or cara blancas in Spanish. Of the four monkey species that reside in Costa Rica, white-faced monkeys are the only ones that descend from the trees to forage on the forest floor, so encounters can be at close range.

Where to See Them

Capuchin monkeys frequent popular parks and beaches on a mission to steal travelers’ food. Keep watch over your belongings—especially in Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio (on the central Pacific coast) and Parque Nacional Cahuita (on the Caribbean coast)—or they’ll be gone before you know it.

Mantled Howler Monkeys

Large, all-black mantled howler monkeys, referred to by many tour guides as congos, also abound in Costa Rica. You may not see them as often as you hear their startling, loud, low-toned roar, which can be heard up to 5 km (3.1 mi) away.

Where to See Them

Look and listen for troops of the territorial howler monkeys in the treetop canopy—they rarely frequent the forest floor. Countrywide, sightings are common on forest hikes, during hanging bridge tours, and on safari float tours.

Geoffroy’s Spider Monkeys

Encounters with brown, lanky, and agile Geoffroy’s spider monkeys, also known as Central American spider monkeys, are less frequent but not rare.

Where to See Them

Like most monkey species in Costa Rica, these spider monkeys can be seen in several natural areas around the country. However, I’ve had good luck spotting these brown-bodied creatures around wetlands, including the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro (in the Northern Inlands) and Parque Nacional Palo Verde (in Guanacaste), as well as near rivers on the Osa Peninsula, especially around Matapalo. They particularly love swiping and devouring hibiscus flowers, so keep an eye out for them wherever you see a hibiscus plant.

Red-Backed Squirrel Monkeys

Most exotic-looking—and the smallest of the bunch—are red-backed squirrel monkeys, also called Central American squirrel monkeys or mono tití monkeys, which have a cinnamon-colored body and a white and dark-gray face.

Where to See Them

The adorable squirrel monkeys stick to the southern half of the country; they’re best spotted in Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio (on the central Pacific coast) or Parque Nacional Corcovado (on the Osa Peninsula).

TAPIRS

The largest animal in Costa Rica’s forests, the Baird’s tapir (danta) is roughly 2 m (6.6 ft) long and weighs 325-775 pounds. The short-haired gray tapir, sporting a wiggly nose not unlike a miniature elephant’s trunk, helps regenerate Costa Rica’s green zones through seed redistribution as they move about the land.

Where to See Them

Tapirs are difficult to see, although they course throughout several of the country’s national parks, most notably Parque Nacional Corcovado (on the Osa Peninsula). Guided tours through the aptly named private reserve Tapir Valley, adjacent to Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio in the Northern Inlands, produce occasional sightings. Look for the animals by riversides and shorelines; they love to take dips in the water.

WILDCATS

Costa Rica is home to six species of wildcats. The king of Costa Rica’s rainforest is the jaguar, which can grow to be 1.5 m (5 ft) long and 0.75 m (2.5 ft) tall, and weigh over 200 pounds. It’s also the most elusive mammal. Many devoted naturalist tour guides spend much of their life hoping to see one in the wild and never do, but the few who have seen a jaguar tell marvelous tales of the beautiful creature’s sleek look and cunning predatory ways. Jaguars require a forested territory large enough for them to roam and hunt.

One of the biggest wildcat species in the country, second only to the jaguar, is the puma (also known as a mountain lion, or león de montaña). The big cat is easily recognizable by its short, smooth, and solid light-brown coat.

The most striking feline of the bunch is the ocelot (ocelote or manigordo), which is spotted like a jaguar but is roughly half its size and has notably large paws. Also spotted, and sometimes mistaken for small ocelots, are margays (cauceles) and oncillas (tigrillos). The margay weighs just under 10 pounds and has a long tail that can extend 50 cm (20 in) beyond its body. The oncilla, sometimes referred to as the little spotted cat, weighs 3.5-6.5 pounds, looks like a kitten, and is the smallest wildcat in Costa Rica’s animal kingdom.

Weasel-like in appearance and slightly smaller than an ocelot is the jaguarundi (león breñero), which resembles a long and slender house cat. Jaguarundis can be grayish-brown, reddish-brown, or black in color.

Where to See Them

Sightings of jaguars most commonly occur in Parque Nacional Corcovado (on the Osa Peninsula), Parque Nacional Tortuguero (on the Caribbean coast), and Parque Nacional Santa Rosa (on the northern Pacific coast). Recent years have seen the closure of public beaches in some protected areas where jaguars have been spotted swiping turtle eggs and cracking the shells of sea turtles with their teeth. The other five species of wildcat inhabit many of the same remote undeveloped spaces where jaguars hide, most notably Parque Nacional Corcovado. They’ve also been spotted in the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde (in Monteverde), among other protected areas.

The majority of Costa Rica’s wildcats are nocturnal. Your best chance of encountering one is during a night tour, though sightings are extremely rare. If you must see a wildcat during your time in Costa Rica, visit the La Paz Waterfall Gardens (in the Central Highlands), Diamante Eco Adventure Park (on the northern Pacific coast), or the Proyecto Asis Wildlife and Sloth Rescue Center (near La Fortuna). Each attraction has wildlife exhibits that house rescued felines.

COATIMUNDIS

Relatively easy to see in Costa Rica are coatimundis (“coatis” for short, or pizotes), which resemble raccoons but have a long white nose and a slender tail. In less-traveled areas, the animals are timid and will wander away when approached. In popular destinations, coatis turn out in droves, especially around roadsides, and are accustomed to getting attention from travelers.

Where to See Them

I’ve always had the best luck seeing groups of coatimundis around La Fortuna, especially near Lago Arenal at the Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park and the Arenal Observatory Lodge.

KINKAJOUS AND OLINGOS

Tougher to spot than coatis are other, less social members of the raccoon family (Procyonidae), including kinkajous (martillas) and olingos (olingos). Both are similar in appearance, though kinkajous are reddish-brown in color and olingos are grayish-brown; they have a thick short coat, a long flexible tail, and an elongated body like a ferret.

Where to See Them

Kinkajous and olingos reside in a variety of natural areas in most regions of Costa Rica, including cloud forest ecosystems such as the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde and lowland nature reserves like the Nicoya Peninsula’s Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú.

BATS

Of the more than 200 species of mammals found in Costa Rica, approximately half are species of bats (murciélagos). Three of these are blood-sucking vampire bats. Vital for the survival of many plants and ecosystems is the process of chiropterophily, or plant pollination by bats.

Where to See Them

Primarily nocturnal, bats in Costa Rica are best admired in their natural habitats during night tours. Monteverde, home to half of the species of bats that are found in Costa Rica, is a good place to experience one. During the day, a good tour guide can direct your eye to where bats sleep, especially during cave tours at Cavernas Venado (near San Rafael de Guatuso in the Northern Inlands) or Parque Nacional Barra Honda (on the Nicoya Peninsula). Look for them tucked away in the curls of tree bark or under the protection of large leaves. On the Pacific coast, you can hear bats chirping within the crevice of Punta Murciélago in Malpaís (on the Nicoya Peninsula). Species you may see or hear in Costa Rica include greater bulldog fishing bats, orange nectar bats, long-nosed bats, and white tent-making bats.

PECCARIES

Essentially wild pigs, peccaries (saínos) roam about heavily in natural areas around the country. In search of food, they traipse through the forest, rustling leaves and branches. If the noise doesn’t give them away, you can identify their recent presence by taking note of messy or muddy tracks, or by catching a whiff of their hog-like smell.

Two peccary species inhabit Costa Rica—white-lipped peccaries, which typically appear in groups and can be aggressive, but are the most difficult to spot, and collared peccaries, which are generally smaller, not aggressive, and encountered in forests on their own.

Where to See Them

Groups of white-lipped peccaries have been spotted in Parque Nacional Corcovado on the Osa Peninsula. Though collared peccaries can be seen nearly everywhere in the country, sightings are common on trails within the Estación Biológica La Selva in the Caribbean region and El Silencio Mirador y Senderos near La Fortuna.

ANTEATERS

Crawling around Costa Rica’s lowlands are two species of anteaters (oso hormigueros): the collared anteater and the silky anteater. A third species, the giant anteater, is critically endangered; it is unknown whether any still exist in the country. Easily recognizable by their long snout, anteaters (also known as tamanduas) are often seen rummaging around the ground in search of ant colonies or tearing open termite nests in trees.

Where to See Them

Occasional sightings of Costa Rica’s two most common anteater species occur at the Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco and Parque Nacional Barra Honda, both on the Nicoya Peninsula, as well as Guanacaste’s Parque Nacional Santa Rosa.

AGOUTIS AND PACAS

As you trek through Costa Rica’s national parks, you may spot a small rodent crossing the trail. If the critter’s body resembles a large rat and is brown with a tinge of yellow, orange, or red, it is likely an agouti (agutí, nicknamed a guatusa). You’ll regularly come across them within natural areas as they eat fruits and seeds off the forest floor. They move quietly about the ground but can scurry when startled.

Small rodents encountered during night tours are most likely nocturnal pacas (tepezcuintles), which are slightly larger than agoutis. They are brown in color and usually have white markings on both sides of their body that resemble the spots on a deer or the stripe on a chipmunk.

Where to See Them

Agoutis and pacas can be seen all over the country, including within the Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco on the Nicoya Peninsula and Parque Nacional Carara on the central Pacific coast.

DEER

Declared a national symbol of Costa Rica in 1995, the white-tailed deer (venado) is most commonly seen in lowland areas, mainly around Parque Nacional Santa Rosa (on the northern Pacific coast), as well as along the central Pacific and northern Caribbean coasts. Despite it being such a busy place, you can usually spot a white-tailed deer or two hanging out by the entrance to Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio; I’ve encountered deer there nearly every time I have visited the park. More challenging to see is the Central American red brocket deer, which is slightly smaller, reddish-brown in color, and prefers mountain highland areas, such as those in remote sections of the central Pacific region.

Marinelife

SEA TURTLES

Costa Rica’s beaches host five types of nesting sea turtles (tortugas marinas)—six if you count Atlantic green sea turtles and Pacific green sea turtles separately. Though sightings are never guaranteed, sea turtles are best witnessed during turtle nesting tours, which are highly regulated guided excursions at popular nesting beaches that typically run at night. With a lot of luck, you can spot sea turtles, mainly olive ridleys and leatherbacks (as well as the occasional hawksbill), swimming in the clear open water of the Pacific Ocean while you participate in a snorkeling, scuba diving, stand-up paddling, or sailing excursion.

baby Atlantic green sea turtle

Where to See Them

Sea turtles can appear on any beach along Costa Rica’s Caribbean and Pacific coasts at any time of year. However, you’re most likely to see them at two key sites during recognized turtle seasons. The Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional (on the Nicoya Peninsula) showcases mass gatherings of small olive ridley sea turtles (May-December). Parque Nacional Tortuguero (on the Caribbean coast) sees four turtle varieties, including green turtles, leatherback turtles, hawksbill sea turtles, and loggerhead sea turtles (as early as March, but primarily July-October), nest on its shores.

DOLPHINS AND WHALES

Costa Rica’s Pacific coast is a known mating site for humpback whales (ballenas), which migrate to the region from the north (late December-early March) and the south (mid-July-late October). A few species of dolphins (delfines), including bottlenose dolphins, spinner dolphins, and spotted dolphins, can be seen playing in the Pacific Ocean year-round.

Where to See Them

Boat tours and sailing tours along the coast provide the best spotting opportunities, especially those that tour the waters of the Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño (24 km/15 mi off the coast of the Osa Peninsula at Bahía Drake, or 50 km/31 mi off the central Pacific coast at Uvita) and Parque Nacional Marino Ballena (on the central Pacific coast).

SHARKS AND RAYS

Potential sightings of sharks (tiburones) and rays (rayas) draw scores of scuba divers to Costa Rica each year. A reputable dive operator can help keep the encounters safe, especially run-ins with bull sharks, which have a reputation for being aggressive. Attacks on humans by any species of shark in Costa Rica are rare.

Where to See Them

Some extreme divers come to swim with schools of scalloped hammerhead sharks in the waters that surround the world-renowned Parque Nacional Isla del Coco (off the central Pacific coast). Closer to the mainland, dive trips to the Northern Pacific’s Islas Murciélago (within Parque Nacional Santa Rosa) and Islas Catalina are known to produce exciting encounters with bull sharks and giant manta rays. Other ray and shark varieties, including white-tip sharks, can sometimes be seen during dive excursions to Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño and dives made at local sites around Manuel Antonio (on the central Pacific coast).

FISH

The waters of the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea are full of an extensive list of fish (peces). Tropical and colorful varieties, including species of parrotfish, puffer fish, and butterfly fish, can make appearances during snorkel and dive trips.

Sportfishing expeditions reel in big fish like marlins, sailfish, wahoos, snappers, roosterfish, dorado, and tuna. Expeditions most commonly depart from destinations along the Pacific coast, including Playas del Coco and Tamarindo (both along the northern Pacific coast), and Herradura (along the central Pacific coast).

Birds

TOUCANS, ARACARIS, AND TOUCANETS

If you’re lucky, you’ll get the chance to see a beautiful toucan (tucán), an aracari (nicknamed a pití), or toucanet (tucancito)—all members of the toucan family—in the wild. If not, plenty of wildlife rescue centers have resident varieties, including Alajuela’s Rescate Wildlife Rescue Center. Toucans are loved for their unique and sometimes colorful bill. You’ll often hear the birds’ boisterous loud calls before you spot them high up in the canopy or soaring between trees.

Where to See Them

The chestnut-mandibled toucan makes a sweet, high-pitched sound; the bird is best seen in low elevations in the Caribbean region and the central Pacific region, in the northern inland area, and on the Osa Peninsula. The keel-billed toucan, sometimes referred to as the rainbow-billed toucan, has a rougher and slightly lower-pitched caw. Keel-billed toucans are commonly only spotted in the northern half of the country, including around Guanacaste, the northern Pacific coast, the Nicoya Peninsula, the northern inland area, and the Caribbean region.

Two similar-looking species of aracaris, the fiery-billed aracari (seen around the central Pacific coast and the Osa Peninsula) and the collared aracari (seen around Guanacaste, the northern Pacific coast, the Nicoya Peninsula, and the Caribbean region), can be found in Costa Rica and are best identified by their beak color. Fiery-billed aracaris have red on their beak.

Striking lime-green-breasted birds that resemble small toucans are emerald toucanets, a rare find. These birds stick to mid- to high elevations; look for them around the Central Highlands and Monteverde. The only other toucanets in Costa Rica are yellow-eared toucanets, which have a distinctive black throat and breast. They prefer lowland parts of the Caribbean region and the northern inland area.

Keep watch for toucans, aracaris, and toucanets in the sky after rain showers; they tend to shy away from the sun and are most active when there is cloud cover.

PARROTS AND MACAWS

Talkative lime-green parrots (loras) and loud-squawking macaws (lapas) are some of Costa Rica’s most exotic birds. Parrots are found along both coasts, usually at low elevations. Macaws are monogamous and almost always seen in pairs.

Where to See Them

Look for red, yellow, and blue scarlet macaws along the Pacific coast, primarily on the Nicoya Peninsula, along the central Pacific coast, and on the Osa Peninsula. A few trees in the town of Puerto Jiménez provide guaranteed sightings of scarlet macaws as well as groups of parrots. Seek out tough-to-find great green macaws around the Tortuguero and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí areas (both in the northern Caribbean region), around Manzanillo (in the southern Caribbean region), or at the Maquenque EcoLodge, in a remote section of the Northern Inlands. You’ll have the best chance of spotting either type in almendro trees; macaws enjoy their almonds. Ara Manzanillo (in the southern Caribbean region) and the Punta Islita Wild Macaw Reserve (on the Nicoya Peninsula) provide a chance to see wild macaws in abundance and at close range while learning about important breeding and reintroduction efforts.

QUETZALS AND OTHER TROGONS

Ten species of trogons (trogones) reside in Costa Rica, but the one every bird-watcher longs to see is the resplendent quetzal. Although female quetzals resemble most other trogons in appearance, males wow viewers with their unique colorful plumage and long tail feathers. Named after the Spanish verb tragar (to swallow), trogons are known for swallowing fruits whole and redistributing seeds around the forest upon regurgitation.

Where to See Them

While trogons can be seen all over Costa Rica, quetzals stick to cloud forest ecosystems. If you’re lucky, you might spot one in the many nature reserves that blanket the Monteverde vicinity. Bird-watching expeditions around San Gerardo de Dota produce the most frequent sightings. They’re often seen feeding on small avocados in aguacatillo trees or nesting in holes in soft decaying trees.

BIRDS OF PREY

Costa Rica has several varieties of birds of prey, including hawks (gavilanes), vultures (zopilotes), and eagles (águilas). For years, and with dwindling hope, ornithologists and birders searched for signs that the harpy eagle—one of the most sought-after birds in the country—was still in Costa Rica. In 2022, one was spotted in the Northern Inlands, sparking a frenzy among avid birders and proving that sightings of the notably large raptor are still possible.

Where to See Them

The 2022 sighting suggests that the northern inland area might be the best place to see a harpy eagle, though in the past, they’ve been spotted around the Osa Peninsula. A few types of caracaras (a kind of falcon) are a common sight throughout the country. Most are spotted mid-flight or perched on tall tree branches while they scope out their prey.

FLYCATCHERS

More than 70 species of flycatchers (nicknamed pechos amarillos) call Costa Rica home. Most have brown or olive-green backs and a yellow-tinged chest. You’re bound to see at least one social flycatcher, boat-billed flycatcher, or great kiskadee resting on cables and fences or visiting feeders at tourist attractions and accommodations across the country. The three species are nearly identical. Experienced birders search the Pacific side of the country high and low to view a scissor-tailed flycatcher or a rare fork-tailed flycatcher, both of which stand out from other family members with their long tails.

Where to See Them

Scissor-tailed flycatchers inhabit the entire Pacific coast. Fork-tailed flycatchers stick to the south.

HUMMINGBIRDS

The most delicate birds you’ll come across are tiny hummingbirds (colibríes), which are always a treat to see zigzagging amid natural areas. More than 50 species whiz around Costa Rica. Endemic to Costa Rica and parts of Panama is the fiery-throated hummingbird, which has a beautiful rainbow-colored throat.

Where to See Them

You can see many hummingbirds at once at hummingbird gardens scattered throughout the country, especially in cloud forest ecosystems. The attractions also permit up-close viewing, ideal if you wish to admire the birds’ shimmery jewel-tone bodies. It’s rare to see a fiery-throated hummingbird; your best chance is while exploring destinations on the slopes of the Cordillera Central, like Bajos del Toro, or destinations around the Cordillera de Talamanca, including San Gerardo de Dota.

MOTMOTS

Six species of motmots (nicknamed pájaros bobos) can be seen throughout Costa Rica. Except for one species (Tody motmots), all are easily identifiable by their long tail, which sways back and forth like a pendulum when the birds feel threatened. Tody motmots are the smallest of Costa Rica’s motmots and have a white breast, olive-green plumage, and a short tail.

Where to See Them

Tody motmots can be seen around the foothills of volcanoes in Guanacaste. I’ve always had good luck getting close to motmots, so they’re a good species to aim for if you’re into bird photography. The black bands around the eyes and the blue, green, turquoise, and copper coloring add to the bird’s striking appearance. Look for nests in holes along forest banks and walls.

CURASSOWS AND GUANS

Much like a wild turkey (pavón), a curassow or a guan is a medium-size bird you might encounter wandering the forest floor in most areas of Costa Rica in search of food. They’re able to fly, so you may also spot the birds in trees. Great curassows are regularly seen in pairs; the male is black and the female is brown. If you come across a set, approach them with caution because they scare easily and are quick to escape into the brush.

SONGBIRDS

Tons of songbirds fill Costa Rica’s forests with sweet serenades. Small and colorful tanagers (tangaras; some species are nicknamed viudas) can be seen singing from the treetop canopy and hopping around the forest floor just about everywhere in the country. The clay-colored robin (yigüirro), also known as a clay-colored thrush, has been Costa Rica’s national bird since 1977. It sings a nearly constant tune March-June. Locals claim that the birds llaman la lluvia (call the rain) since their song corresponds with the transition between the dry season and the wet season. Several warblers and orioles add melodies to the natural symphony. These three types of songbirds can be seen and heard across the country.

One of the most distinct birdsongs you’ll hear in Costa Rica, which plays on repeat throughout the northern inland area, the Caribbean region, and Guanacaste, is the combined squeak and gobble of the Montezuma oropendola. The blackbird species, which is dark brown in color and has a yellow-tinged tail and an orange-tipped beak, is a common sight around fruit feeders and in the wild. You may first spot their funny-looking nests, which hang from tree branches and appear as large grayish-brown woven sacks that can be up to 2 m (6.6 ft) long.

WATERBIRDS

Costa Rica’s countless wetlands, mangroves, rivers, lakes, lagoons, and beaches host flocks of waterbirds. Most species come looking for crabs, mollusks, fish, insects, and other food in and around the water. Sandpipers (andarríos), gulls (gaviotas), herons (garzas), egrets (garcetas), pelicans (pelícanos), cormorants (cormoranes), spoonbills (espátulas), anhingas (nicknamed pato aguja), kingfishers (martín pescadores), and storks (cigüeñas) are common varieties.

Where to See Them

Waterbirds can be found around the waterways of the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro (in the Northern Inlands) and Parque Nacional Palo Verde (in Guanacaste). The canals in Parque Nacional Tortuguero (on the Caribbean coast) also produce sightings of waterbirds, including northern jacanas.

Reptiles and Amphibians

CROCODILES AND CAIMANS

American crocodiles (cocodrilos) are common sights on the banks of many of Costa Rica’s slow-moving rivers. Remain alert when visiting natural lagoons or beaches next to river mouths, as crocodiles may lurk nearby. Never attempt to cross small rivers or estuaries unless you are certain crocodiles aren’t in the area. Smaller and less aggressive are spectacled caimans (caimanes), seen in the Northern Inlands.

Where to See Them

Look for them as you travel through or participate in guided boat tours on Río Tempisque (in Guanacaste), Río Peñas Blancas (near La Fortuna), or Río Tárcoles (along the central Pacific coast). Passage through the Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe (on the Osa Peninsula), the estuary within Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas (on the northern Pacific coast), and the canals of Parque Nacional Tortuguero (on the Caribbean coast) provide additional opportunities for sightings. Spectacled caimans are seen in large quantities in Río Frío around the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro (in the Northern Inlands).

FROGS

Costa Rica has more than 175 different types of amphibians, the majority of which are frogs (ranas). Several are entertaining to look at, like the strawberry poison dart frog (nicknamed the blue-jeans frog given the denim-colored legs that contrast with its bright-red body) or various species of glass frogs, whose transparent bodies put internal organs on full display. The nonpoisonous red-eyed tree frog is arguably the most sought-after, as its striking light-green body, blue legs, orange feet, and beady red eyes—all of which are used to trick predators into thinking it’s poisonous—make it a unique sight. Most other frogs have earth-tone bodies that camouflage well with the environment. The majority of Costa Rica’s frog species prefer moist environments to dry areas; look for poison dart frogs, glass frogs, tree frogs, and more hopping along wet or humid nature trails, sleeping under leaves, or depositing eggs in waterlogged bromeliads, usually near small bodies of stagnant water in the northern inland area, the Caribbean region, the central Pacific coast, and on the Osa Peninsula.

Where to See Them

After dark, when the temperature cools and nocturnal varieties awake, is the best time of day to see the largest number of frogs. Guided night tours through nature reserves and frog exhibits are available around the country. I particularly like La Fortuna’s Frog Watching Night Walk at the Arenal Oasis Eco Lodge & Wildlife Refuge. Visits to Frog’s Paradise in Bijagua (in the Northern Inlands) are also worthwhile.

GECKOS, IGUANAS, AND LIZARDS

The closest encounter you’ll likely have with a lizard is in your hotel room, as tiny house geckos are common guests—wanted or not. Some geckos run across walls and ceilings, and others hide behind mirrors and hanging artwork. You’ll hear them making clicking sounds every few minutes as they attempt to make a meal out of small flies, worms, and other insects. If you can’t direct them out the door, don’t fret; they’re harmless.

Iguanas

Iguanas (iguanas) are also frequent finds in Costa Rica, especially along coastlines where there are plenty of sunny and sandy spots for females to bury their eggs. Black spiny-tailed iguanas and green iguanas can be seen basking in the sun on tree branches.

Where to See Them

For guaranteed iguana sightings, don’t miss Centro Turístico Las Iguanas near La Fortuna, where hundreds of iguanas fill the trees beside the establishment.

Lizards

Lizards (lagartijas), of which there are many varieties in Costa Rica, dash across nature trails and hurry up tree trunks. Arguably the most remarkable species is the common basilisk, better known as a Jesus Christ lizard, which escapes land predators by scurrying across the surface of narrow bodies of water on its hind legs.

Where to See Them

Basilisks, along with most other lizards in the country, can be seen near lowland rivers and streams along the Pacific coast.

SNAKES

According to San José’s Instituto Clodomiro Picado, the country’s leading snake research center, which produces antivenom serums and exports the products around the world, Costa Rica has 140 species of snakes (serpientes or culebras), but only 23 are considered poisonous (22 species of land snakes and 1 species of sea snake). One of the most aggressive species is the pit viper known as the fer-de-lance, but the most poisonous is the bushmaster. Many snakes are brown in color and camouflage easily among natural settings; be mindful of where you walk and don’t venture off flattened trails into dense brush. Other snake varieties are bright green or yellow.

It’s worth noting that encountering a poisonous snake in Costa Rica is uncommon. In my many years of traveling throughout Costa Rica, I’ve only come across a handful in the wild; most were encountered during night tours or nonroutine activities like overnight deep-rainforest expeditions. Although snakes can appear anywhere and at any time (carry a flashlight wherever you go at night), Costa Rica’s most traveled trails rarely produce daytime snake sightings.

Where to See Them

Look for snakes in trees or curled up in holes. If you’re fearful of snakes, visit forested areas with a knowledgeable and experienced tour guide, or examine them from behind glass walls at one of many herpetariums and other snake exhibits in the country.

Insects and Arachnids

BUTTERFLIES AND MOTHS

More than 1,200 species of butterflies (mariposas) and roughly 8,000 species of moths (polillas or mariposas nocturnas) flutter all around Costa Rica, mainly in natural areas with plenty of flowers.

The most beloved butterfly in the country is the shimmery blue morpho butterfly. You’re most likely to catch a glimpse of it up close when it rests on plants or feeders to drink the juice of fermented fruit. With the blue side of its wings closed while it consumes the liquid, the butterfly displays a striking brown design with several circles meant to mimic eyes. The blue morpho is often misidentified as the magnificent owl butterfly, which displays similar brown markings on one side of its wings and an iridescent purple—not blue—hue on the other.

blue morpho butterfly

Where to See Them

To see them in abundance, visit one of the country’s many butterfly gardens, which protect and breed several species within enclosed habitats.

ANTS

The tiny leaf-cutter ants (hormigas) you’ll see marching across nature trails and up tree trunks in virtually every outdoor area in the country are wildly fascinating. If you plan to participate in a guided nature tour anywhere in the country, ask your tour guide about the ants’ behavior. In short, the strong critters carry bits of leaves and other debris (sometimes 2-3 times their own weight) across forests to underground colonies, some of which consist of millions of ants. They later feed off the fungus of the decomposing materials. Colonies are overseen by queen ants, which run an impressively organized and smart operation. Watch out for the hardworking insects whenever you embark on forest treks to avoid stepping on their ingenious system.

SPIDERS AND SCORPIONS

Costa Rica has all kinds of spiders (arañas), from small varieties not unlike the ones you’re used to shooing out of your home, to large tarantulas and plenty of weird-looking ones in between. A few are poisonous, including the Phoneutria boliviensis (one of the world’s most feared spiders), but most are not. A common nonpoisonous variety you’re bound to come across is the thin golden silk orb weaver, adored by some for its yellow-tinged web. If you’re not up for running into one (literally), keep your head up as you walk through forested areas and approach exhibit enclosures; webs, often thin and easy to miss, are all around.

Dispelling several myths, findings from 2017 confirm that of Costa Rica’s 14 species of scorpions (escorpiones), none is poisonous. Rarely seen in Costa Rica, the stinging arachnids shouldn’t be feared; most hide behind forest vegetation.

Background

The Landscape

GEOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY

ECOSYSTEMS

CLIMATE

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

Plantlife

PLANTS

TREES

History

EARLY HISTORY

SPANISH COLONIALISM

ERA OF INDEPENDENCE

CIVIL WAR AND CONTEMPORARY TIMES

Government and Economy

GOVERNMENT

ECONOMY

People and Culture

DEMOGRAPHY

RELIGION

LANGUAGE

THE ARTS

a guided natural history tour in a tropical rainforest.

The Landscape

Costa Rica forms part of the Central American isthmus where the Caribbean and the Cocos (Pacific) tectonic plates converge. Millions of years of opposing pressure created the country’s rugged mountainous interior, which is strewn with active and dormant volcanoes. The landscape is a dramatic display of mountain peaks and plateaus made even more striking by deep valleys that emphasize the diverse terrain.

GEOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY

North of the equator, Costa Rica stretches diagonally from the northwest, where it borders Nicaragua, to the southeast, where it borders Panama. Mountain ranges bisect the country in the same direction and nearly touch the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean in places.

Mountains and Volcanoes

Filling much of Costa Rica’s interior are walls of mountains and volcanoes that provide stunning backdrops to many rural and city scenes. Four mountain ranges span the length of the country. Beginning in the northwest, they gradually increase in height and width as they stretch southeast.

Closest to Nicaragua and visible to the north from Costa Rica’s Guanacaste region is the narrow Cordillera de Guanacaste (Guanacaste mountain range). The beastly Volcán Rincón de la Vieja (Rincón de la Vieja Volcano, 1,916 m/6,286 ft elevation), which has potent smoking fumaroles, is in the range.

To the east, the Cordillera de Tilarán (Tilarán mountain range) wows mountain gazers with Volcán Arenal (Arenal Volcano, 1,670 m/5,479 ft). The picture-perfect cone-shaped volcano is one you’ll want to capture on camera, even though it hasn’t erupted since 2010. Tourism booms in La Fortuna, a town at the volcano’s base, where spectacular volcano views and hot springs rich in volcanic minerals supplement many attractions.

Volcán Arenal

In the middle of the country (north of the Central Valley), the Cordillera Central (Central mountain range) boasts two of Costa Rica’s most-visited volcanoes: Volcán Poás (Poás Volcano, 2,708 m/8,885 ft) and Volcán Irazú (Irazú Volcano, 3,432 m/11,260 ft). It’s possible to peer into the craters at both of these volcanoes.

South of the Central Valley, the Cordillera de Talamanca (Talamanca mountain range) is Costa Rica’s most expansive spread of mountains. It engulfs much of the southern half of the country and touches most of the border shared with Panama. Remote villages and virgin forest hide among the verdant range’s hills and crevices, where opportunities for exploration are limited.

Protected land encompasses mountains and volcanoes, enclosing popular peaks and craters. Volcán Rincón de la Vieja, Volcán Arenal, Volcán Poás, and Volcán Irazú are all in national parks named after the resident volcano. Cerro Chirripó (Chirripó Hill, 3,820 m/12,533 ft), Costa Rica’s highest point, is within Parque Nacional Chirripó (Chirripó National Park) and can be accessed via a challenging two- or three-day trek.

Valleys and Highlands

In the middle of the country, the Central Valley (also known as the Meseta Central) serves as an upland basin shared by agricultural fields and compact metropolises. San José, Costa Rica’s capital city, marks the center of the depression. Roughly two million people, approximately 40 percent of the population, live in the valley or on its surrounding highlands.

Coastal Areas

Costa Rica borders both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea. Two peninsulas along the Pacific coast, the Nicoya Peninsula (due west of San José) and the Osa Peninsula (in the far south), jut into the ocean and curve southward. The peninsulas create the Golfo de Nicoya (Nicoya Gulf) and the Golfo Dulce (Dulce Gulf), respectively. Smaller peninsulas, including the Santa Elena Peninsula and Peninsula Papagayo (both in the northwest corner of the country) add to the jagged coastline. Mountains and hills back beaches in many places. Several stretches of the coast are divided by rocky headlands.

Separated from Costa Rica’s interior by the Cordillera Central and the Cordillera de Talamanca, the Caribbean coast is a primarily flat region comprising pretty beaches (along the southern coast), lagoons and canals (along the northern coast), and rainforest (inland near Sarapiquí). The coastline is predominantly straight.

Earthquakes

Costa Rica’s plate tectonics produce frequent earthquakes. Most are minor, unnoticed by residents and travelers, and acknowledged only by seismologists. Each year, a few earthquakes cause minor damage and are significant enough to feel near the epicenter. Disastrous earthquakes are extremely rare. Such events in recent history occurred in 2009 in the Poás vicinity and in 1991 in Limón.

ECOSYSTEMS

Costa Rica’s 12 life zones—tropical dry forest, tropical moist forest, tropical wet forest, premontane moist forest, premontane wet forest, premontane rainforest, lower montane moist forest, lower montane wet forest, lower montane rainforest, montane wet forest, montane rainforest, and subalpine rain paramo—plus 12 additional transition zones make the country a hotbed of ecological habitats. Differentiated by several environmental factors (including temperature, humidity, and rainfall), each is its own precious gem in the country’s treasure chest of natural jewels.

Tropical Rainforests

Costa Rica’s thick and humid tropical rainforests are what you likely envision when you think of the jungle. In its interior, from the forest floor to the treetop canopy, the ecosystem is full of life. Dense with branches, vines, and giant tree roots, the rainforest is packed with insects, fungi, mosses, lichens, and decomposing fragments of the forest, not to mention bountiful wildlife. Trees that seem to stretch for miles toward the sky race one another for sunlight. The leafy canopy, always lush and green, casts shade on nature trails below. Tropical rainforests are widespread in Costa Rica, covering much of the La Fortuna area, the Central Pacific coast, the Caribbean coast, and the Osa Peninsula.

Tropical Dry Forests

Most endangered—due to significant deforestation during the development of pastureland—are Costa Rica’s tropical dry forests, which span much of Guanacaste and the Northern Pacific as well as parts of the Nicoya Peninsula. To the untrained eye, they appear like tropical rainforests (but sparser) during wet months, when the deciduous forest is lively and green. But drought-ridden months bring drastic change, as the trees drop their leaves and make for a bare and exposed ecosystem. If you visit during this period, you’d think the emerald-green lushness synonymous with Costa Rica is merely a ruse. Fortunately, several national parks, including Parque Nacional Santa Rosa and Parque Nacional Barra Honda, protect what remains of the precious ecosystem. Aiming to prevent irreparable damage caused by forest fires, unfortunate common sights during the dry season, the parks are equipped with cisternas (vehicles with water tanks) and have on-call teams of volunteer firefighters.

Cloud Forests

Thanks to the warm trade winds that roll in from the Caribbean Sea—rising alongside inland mountain ranges, cooling at high elevations, and eventually condensing—Costa Rica is blessed with several cloud forests. In these, a different world of biodiversity flourishes, and high-elevation bird and plant species are sights of interest. Compared with tropical rainforests and tropical dry forests, cloud forests are cooler, damper, denser, and often shrouded in fog. Experiencing one is as easy as traveling to a city, town, or area of Costa Rica that showcases the ecosystem. The country’s best-known cloud forest destination is Monteverde (in the northern inland area), but several other cloud forest destinations exist, especially in and just beyond the Central Valley and Highlands at Bajos del Toro and Cerro de la Muerte.

Mangroves

Fascinating to see are Costa Rica’s waterlogged mangroves. Mazes of root systems, visible at low tide, make trees in the flooded forest look like they’re walking on water. Tolerant of salt, mangroves exist in areas where freshwater rivers meet the ocean. Red mangroves, black mangroves, and white mangroves, distinct in their root systems and leaves, can be seen in Costa Rica. Each protects nearby areas from harmful debris and shelters small but important marinelife from large predators and other threats. Several areas along the Pacific coast and a few in the Caribbean region feature the ecosystem, which is best explored via guided boat or kayak tours.

Reefs

Climate change and warming ocean temperatures, which can lead to coral bleaching, have left Costa Rica’s reefs in dire need of repair. Several reef restoration projects are underway to regenerate coral species with the hope of rebuilding reefs piece by piece. Protected marine zones in several national parks on both the Caribbean and Pacific coasts aim to safeguard reefs from human destruction by restricting access to guided snorkeling and diving tours.

If you’re snorkeling or diving, kick your fins cautiously and never touch or remove coral or any other ocean fragments, including shells. With land exploration, the saying goes, “always take out what you carry in.” When in the water, abide by the comparable rule, “take nothing out that you didn’t bring in.”

CLIMATE

Set in the tropics, Costa Rica has a warm and temperate climate year-round, although the country has an abundance of microclimates. Corresponding with the tourist high season (mid-Dec.-late Apr.), summer, also known as the dry season, provides, on average, longer periods of sunshine and shorter spurts of rain. Cloud cover and higher rainfall amounts are characteristic of winter, also known as the green season or the wet season, which lasts May-mid-December and corresponds with the tourist low season.

On average throughout the year, lowland areas in the northwest region of the country—including much of Guanacaste, the Northern Pacific, the Nicoya Peninsula, and parts of the northern inland area—are the sunniest and the hottest, with temperatures averaging over 27°C (80°F). In part due to the trade winds, rain is most common on the east side of the country, most notably in the northern Caribbean and on the Osa Peninsula. Transition zones around the center of the country, including the Central Pacific, have a mixed bag of climatic conditions. Destinations at high elevations, especially those within cloud forest ecosystems, are the coldest, dropping to 16°C (60°F), with near-freezing temperatures atop mountain peaks. They can also be foggy and windy and produce a greater likelihood of rain.

If there’s any truth to weather forecasts for Costa Rica, it’s that they’re often wrong. Because the country is a narrow land spit flanked by vast oceans, weather systems that roll in from the Pacific and the Caribbean wreak constant havoc on neatly arranged forecasts. Slight shifts in either or both systems can bring sudden changes. The best way to plan for the weather in Costa Rica is to expect the unexpected.

On occasion, turbulent weather systems cause floods and landslides. During wet periods, always check with a local to be sure roadways are open before setting out. When mapping your trip, plan alternatives for each route in the event you encounter a road closure. Despite the blow that Tropical Storm Nate delivered to Costa Rica’s natural areas and infrastructure in 2017, dangerous weather developments of this kind are infrequent.

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

Costa Rica is a model of environmental conservation. Together with numerous private reserves and refuges, the country’s complex national park system protects more than a quarter of the nation’s total landmass, counting each of Costa Rica’s 12 life zones within its borders.

Deforestation, Reforestation, and Protection

Once blanketed by thick verdant vegetation, Costa Rica has been dealt a devastating blow by deforestation. For centuries, and at an alarming rate in the latter half of the 20th century, Costa Rica’s environment was nearly stripped bare due to the effects of logging, vast cattle farms, and the establishment of agricultural corporations. By the 1990s, before the tourism boom arrived, Costa Rica had already lost roughly four-fifths of its primary forest.

Soon after Costa Rica made its first appearance at the FIFA World Cup in 1990, foreigners flocked to the country to experience the exotic tropical paradise for themselves. As the tourism industry grew, businesses expanded and new establishments (including accommodations, tourism offices, attractions, and recreation centers) were erected around the country. Built before many modern-day policies came into effect, much of the development resulted in further loss of forested areas.

In response to Costa Rica’s fast-changing landscape, the government developed several programs and regulations to help combat deforestation and spur reforestation. Many are managed by the Sistema Nacional de Áreas de Conservación (National System of Conservation Areas, SINAC; www.sinac.go.cr), which is governed by the Ministerio de Ambiente y Energía (Ministry of Environment and Energy, MINAE; www.minae.go.cr [URL inactive]). SINAC is the leading body responsible for the management of wildlife, forest resources, protected areas, watersheds, and water systems throughout the country. It also oversees Costa Rica’s various conservation areas and its complex national park system.

Some argue that the well-intentioned SINAC falls short of its goals because anti-conservation activities continue to operate in the shadows. But Costa Rica isn’t a perfect nation. The country is actively working to right many wrongs, even though the feat will take generations. New initiatives that document the country’s steady progress are always on the rise. Old ones are maintained and reviewed. The Política Nacional de Saneamiento de Aguas Residuales (National Wastewater Sanitation Policy) took aim at water pollution in 2016. The Política Nacional de Humedales (National Wetlands Policy), inaugurated in 2016, emphasized conservation efforts for Costa Rica’s fluvial, estuarine, marine, lacustrine, and palustrine wetlands. The push to replace single-use plastics with biodegradable materials aims to spare the oceans from receiving our trash. The Programa Bandera Azul Ecológica (Ecological Blue Flag Program), which began in 1996 and is updated every year, is a coastal community incentive that encourages beach cleanups along the Pacific and the Caribbean coasts. Funding that flowed in following Costa Rica’s 2021 win of the world’s first Earthshot Prize, awarded to the nation for its work in protecting and restoring nature, has already helped extend the country’s marine reserves by 27 percent.

Foreigners and expats contribute significantly to land and wildlife habitat protection. Many own private reserves purchased with the intent of restoring Costa Rica as close as possible to its original state. Others operate or volunteer with organizations that provide a diverse range of services from research studies and educational awareness to building structures that aid in wildlife proliferation and planting trees to replenish food sources. Most document their successes online to display their efforts and to instill hope. Together with equally earth-conscious Ticos, these groups are rebuilding the paradise lost.

Sustainable Tourism

Approximately 65 percent of Costa Rica visitors engage in ecotourism activities during their trip. Many others stay at eco-friendly accommodations and explore the country with the help of tour operators and transportation companies that provide low-impact services. Enjoying a green vacation in Costa Rica isn’t difficult, provided you connect with businesses that share your interest in sustainability.

Since 2000, Costa Rica’s official ecotourism stamp of approval has been the Certificación para la Sostenibilidad Turística (Certification of Sustainable Tourism, CST; www.turismo-sostenible.co.cr), handed out by the government-run Instituto Costarricense de Turismo (Costa Rican Institute of Tourism, ICT; www.ict.go.cr). The certification rates tourism businesses according to their sustainability model. The program is wildly successful and a win for conservation. It also ignites competitive drive around the country, as businesses compete for top honors. You’ll recognize the award, which appears as a circular leaf badge, on websites and in print marketing. The badge makes it easy to find businesses that are committed to sustainable tourism.

Originally designed as a five-leaf rating system, the program now awards the certificate only to businesses that meet ICT’s highest sustainability standards. Businesses that comply with 100 percent of the program’s strict guidelines earn the Básico accreditation, while businesses that surpass the guidelines receive the Élite accreditation. A full list of awardees is available on the certificate program’s website; however, the list doesn’t consider businesses that earned the CST under the original leaf system and that are currently working to meet the higher standards.

Virtually any type of business that can practice sustainable tourism—accommodations, tour operators, transportation service providers, car rental agencies, restaurants, protected lands, theme parks, hot springs and spas, and miscellaneous institutions and organizations—is eligible for the CST. Sustainable hospitality is a big part of sustainable tourism in Costa Rica, so it’s fitting that accommodations make up the bulk of the awardees. Although certification statuses are subject to change, at the time of writing, approximately 10 percent of the lodging options recommended in this guide had earned the CST.

Non-CST-recognized businesses can also be eco-friendly. Some businesses choose not to participate in the certification program, perhaps due to the cost involved with meeting the ICT’s high standards, but that’s not to suggest that these businesses aren’t motivated—and taking significant steps—to become sustainable. Of all the tourism businesses that appear in this guide, less than 5 percent are CST recipients, but substantially more are active in reducing the negative impact of tourism on the nation. The majority of Costa Rican businesses are eco-conscious in one way or another.

Low-Impact Travel Tips

Costa Rica has vowed to become the world’s first carbon-neutral country. Here’s how you can do your part to help the environment by traveling sustainably:

• Stay at an eco-friendly accommodation. They exist in every region, so you can find one no matter where you’re headed. Most will indicate on their website if they have obtained a Certification of Sustainable Tourism or if they employ sustainability practices. (For more information, see Eco-Friendly Places to Stay in the Essentials chapter; click here.)

• Choose environmentally friendly businesses. Eco-conscious tour operators and transportation service providers, like the certified-sustainable Surcos Tours in Puerto Jiménez and Ocotea Tours and Transfers in Monteverde, and the internationally accredited STOKE (Sustainable Tourism and Outdoors Kit for Evaluation) surf school Safari Surf School in Nosara, can help you experience Costa Rica with minimal environmental impact.

• Reduce, reuse, and recycle. The three pillars of environmentalism still apply when you travel. Reduce electricity by turning off lights and air conditioners in rooms. Reduce water use by taking quick showers. Reduce paper waste by relying on electronic confirmations. Reduce plastics by using refillable water bottles and asking for drinks without a straw. Reuse towels and bed linens if possible to cut back on laundry. Recycle whatever materials you can, whenever you can.

• Respect nature and wildlife. Stick to posted trails and remain quiet in natural areas so you do not disrupt local inhabitants. Don’t touch, scare, or feed wildlife, take flowers or shells, break tree branches, litter, or drive across the beach. Always watch where you’re walking.

• Tour an organic farm. Costa Rica has several fascinating farms that demonstrate organic agricultural practices. Some offer unique farm-to-table experiences where you can taste the difference that sustainable farming makes.

• Support eco-conscious breweries. Microbreweries are popping up all over Costa Rica and some, including the solar-powered Lake Arenal Brewery (LAB), halfway between La Fortuna and Monteverde, are surprisingly eco-friendly. LAB-brand beer is sold at establishments around the country.

• Walk or bike around town. Skip taxi rides in favor of greener ways to get around. If you require transportation, opt for public buses, shared shuttle services, or organized tour services, which transport multiple people at one time.

• Rent a car through a carbon-neutral agency. If you rent a car, a few agencies, like San José’s Mapache Rent-A-Car (offices in San José, Alajuela, and Liberia; tel. 506/2586-6300; www.mapache.com; hours vary by office), have fully sustainable rental systems that help eliminate part of the guilt that comes with driving around the country.

• Choose tour experiences that don’t damage the environment. Many attractions were built in ways that minimize harm to the environment. For example, some zip lines and tree-climbing excursions were constructed without causing damage to trees. Choose these kinds of activities whenever you can.

• Rent green equipment. Rely on a bike, not an ATV, to move around beach towns. If you rent a golf cart, opt for one that is electric, not gas-powered. If you’re a surfer stationed on the northern Pacific coast, rent a “SurfCycled” (upcycled) board from the Matos Surf Shop in Playa Grande to help give it a second life.

• Pack wisely. Travel with products that are less likely to harm the environment, like biodegradable shampoos, soaps, toothpastes, and other toiletries as well as natural, non-aerosol insect repellent and reef-friendly sunscreen.

• Travel consciously. Recognize the effect your actions have on your surroundings and remain conscious of their impact on today, tomorrow, and the future. It’s easy to let go of concern while on vacation, but your stress-free trip shouldn’t contribute added stress to your chosen destination. Awareness will help keep Costa Rica a paradisiacal place for us all to enjoy.

• Erase your carbon footprint. The website of the Cámara Nacional de Ecoturismo y Turismo Sostenible de Costa Rica (National Chamber of Ecotourism and Sustainable Tourism of Costa Rica, CANAECO; www.canaeco.org) can calculate the CO2 emissions produced by your trip and accept a monetary payment to adequately offset them. Pay the fee, and you’ll not only feel good about offsetting your CO2 output, but you’ll also help move Costa Rica one step closer to reaching its carbon-neutral goal.

• Pay it forward. Donate to individuals or groups who helped make your Costa Rica experience unforgettable. Amigos of Costa Rica (www.amigosofcostarica.org), an American nonprofit, works directly with 150 Costa Rican organizations. Simply choose which organizations should receive your financial gift, and Amigos of Costa Rica will transfer the funds.

In late 2019, Costa Rica initiated a wildlife conservation campaign to #stopanimalselfies. Though the campaign doesn’t strive to stop all animal selfies, it teaches visitors ways to snap photos that don’t cause distress to animals. The campaign also discourages visitors from taking photos with animals held in captivity in an attempt to curb the development of wildlife exhibits that aren’t legitimate rescue or rehabilitation centers. Specifically, it calls on travelers to refrain from taking photos with animals that are being held or restrained, that are close enough to cause physical harm, or that are being baited with food. You’re welcome to take selfies from a distance with animals in their natural habitat provided they’re not being disturbed or provoked.

In an effort to reduce trash, it is prohibited to enter a SINAC-run protected area, including all of Costa Rica’s national parks and a few biological reserves and wildlife refuges, with single-use plastic items. Banned plastics include straws, stirrers, cutlery, cups, containers, bags, and bottles designed for one-time use. The ban also prohibits entry with prepackaged snacks in wrappers, such as granola bars and chips. Stick to peeled fruit and vegetables, unwrapped crackers and cookies, and sandwiches when preparing snacks for a hike. Paper bags, reusable plastic containers, and reusable bottles are permitted, but you must take everything with you when you leave. To help preserve the land and protect the local wildlife, don’t bring cans, glass containers, aluminum foil, alcoholic beverages, and foods that contain nuts or seeds into any park, reserve, or refuge. Expect your bags and backpacks to be searched upon entry and for noncompliant items to be confiscated. Some national parks, including Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio and Parque Nacional Corcovado, have banned entry with any kind of food except for baby food and food required to treat a medical condition.

Plantlife

PLANTS

Bromeliads

Bromeliads account for most of the spiky plants growing on trees, on the ground, and sometimes around rocks in Costa Rica. The majority are short and sharp to the touch but have beautiful pink, red, or orange flowers that soften the plant’s appearance. Crevices formed where spikes depart from the plant’s thick stem are where some frog species elect to deposit their eggs. The species that produce fruit attract birds. One of the most recognizable bromeliads in all of Costa Rica—and in the world—is the pineapple plant.

Coffee

Coffee production has long been one of Costa Rica’s most lucrative businesses. But you won’t find tons of large coffee corporations here. Over 90 percent of the country’s coffee plantations are small-scale family-owned operations.

If you travel around Costa Rica, you’ll see plantations of medium-size Coffea arabica (coffee) plants arranged in rows on sloped terrain. In particular, Monteverde in the northern inland area and several areas around the Central Valley and Highlands have many. The plants are easily identifiable by their shiny, almost plastic-looking dark-green leaves and, when in season, small red fruits. Although Costa Rica’s small size doesn’t allow for the production of vast quantities of coffee, where the country differs from other coffee-growing nations is in the perfection of its bean. Faring well in international tasting competitions, Costa Rica is a model in high-quality arabica bean production as well as organic and sustainable coffee farming.

Heliconias

Quintessentially tropical in appearance, many kinds of heliconias fill gardens and forests with bursts of bright colors. Beautiful enough to be used in hotel decor and wedding arrangements, the flowers of heliconia plants (technically called bracts) are regularly exported from Costa Rica around the world. Some heliconias are low-lying plants with spiky flowers that stand upright, much like a bird-of-paradise. Others are tall towering plants that allow strands of flowers to hang freely through oversize leaves. Most attract several types of birds, including hummingbirds.

Medicinal Plants

Several plants grown in Costa Rica can be used as analgesics, sedatives, anti-inflammatories, and antidepressants. Most plantas medicinales (medicinal plants) play important roles in Indigenous cultures, but many are also used by non-Indigenous Costa Ricans and expats who favor traditional approaches to medicine. A few of the more common remedies include jackass bitters (gavilana), Lippia alba (nicknamed juanilama), and mint (menta). Most are consumed as tea prepared with leaves from the plant. To learn more, visit the garden at the Sacred Seeds Sanctuary near La Fortuna, which has roughly 300 medicinal plants. Sprigs or leaves of dried plants can be purchased in many shops and markets around the country, including San José’s Mercado Central.

Orchids

Costa Rica’s national flower, chosen in 1939, is the bright-purple Guarianthe skinneri (guaria morada, also known as Cattleya skinneri), one of more than 1,500 species of orchids found in the country. Many hide among thick forest brush and are too small for the average traveler to notice, which is why you might not see as many in the wild as you hope to come across. To fully appreciate Costa Rica’s abundance of orchids, visit an orchid garden. The Monteverde Orchid Garden (in the northern inland area) is an excellent choice, as Monteverde is thought to have the greatest diversity of orchids in the world. Another fantastic garden is the Jardín Botánico Lankester (in the Central Valley and Highlands), which displays several kinds of plants but counts roughly 1,000 orchid varieties in its collection.

TREES

Cacao

Medium-size cacao trees fill cacao farms in Costa Rica, most of which are in the Caribbean region. Sporting hard fruit pods bigger than the size of your hand, cacao is one of the most identifiable trees in the country. Pods can be green, red, or yellow, depending on the tree species and the pod’s ripeness. Inside each pod are several deep-purple seeds covered in a white, fibrous, edible skin. The seeds, first fermented and then dried and broken into bits, are called nibs. Fatty content (known as cocoa butter) drawn out from ground nibs is the foundation of white chocolate. The nib remnants, following the extraction of cocoa butter, are pulverized to create cocoa powder. Regular chocolate, which can range from sweet milk chocolate to bitter dark chocolate, typically comprises ground nibs, cocoa butter, sugar, and milk. It’s created by combining the ingredients, refining them (usually with rollers) until they’re smooth, and heating and mixing the blend to achieve a desired flavor during a process known as “conching.”

Ceiba

Centuries-old ceiba trees, some more than 60 m (197 ft) tall, are showstoppers in several of Costa Rica’s natural areas, including Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal (near La Fortuna), Parque Nacional Carara (on the central Pacific coast), Parque Nacional Corcovado (on the Osa Peninsula), and Reserva Biológica Tirimbina (in the Caribbean region). Look for the tree’s noticeably branchless trunk and its giant buttresses, which appear to climb out of the forest floor as they stabilize the tall growth.

Corteza

Among scenes of brown and green, the bright-yellow flowers of the corteza tree are a shocking sight, most often spotted in Guanacaste. Look for the blooms if you plan to be in Costa Rica during the summer season. They make a prominent but brief appearance before dropping to the ground.

Guanacaste

Since 1959, the robust guanacaste tree has served as Costa Rica’s national tree. Sometimes called the elephant-ear tree because of the shape of its seed pods, the large, umbrella-shaped tree is easy to spot in the Guanacaste region but can also be seen in other areas of the country. Its wood is used for furniture, and its little brown seeds (which sport a copper-colored ring) adorn jewelry pieces in souvenir shops. The sap is sometimes used for medicinal purposes.

Palm

Much of Costa Rica’s Caribbean and Pacific coastline is backed by tall tropical palm trees (palmas) that provide an endless supply of coconuts (cocos). Some palms are desired for the edible white coconut meat contained within their fruit. The fruits of others, called pipa, are cracked open for their refreshing juice. African palms (palmas africanas) are harvested for their oil, which is used in cosmetics, soaps, and other household products. Peach palms (pejibayes) supply palmito (heart of palm), a staple vegetable in Costa Rican cuisine.

Strangler Fig

Costa Rica’s many strangler fig trees (higuerones, of the ficus tree variety) are vastly interesting to see and learn about. These trees often begin their life on the trunk or within the canopy of another tree (depending on the location of seed germination), where roots sprout and grow toward the ground. Over years, the new tree expands and encloses or “strangles” the host tree, eventually stripping it of the elements and nutrients it needs to survive. Mid-process, the sight is a wild display of twisted roots wrapped around tree trunks. With early growths, you can witness the trees on their journey to the forest floor. Most of Costa Rica’s tree-climbing tours (namely in Monteverde) scale strangler figs because the tangled roots make decent footholds. Some hollow varieties allow tree climbing from within. Monteverde is also where you’ll find Reserva Curi-Cancha, home to tens of strangler fig trees and the best place to go if you want to see the “strangulation” process at various stages. On the Nicoya Peninsula, the hollow strangler fig tree you’ll pass on the way to the Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco is large enough to stand in.

History

EARLY HISTORY

Although humans are believed to have resided in Central America as far back as 10,000 years ago, little is known about them. Artifacts and legends suggest that several Indigenous groups roamed the area, but apart from findings within the Monumento Nacional Guayabo (Guayabo National Monument) in the Central Valley and Highlands, archaeological evidence of settlements is sparse. Unlike the history of Aztec and Mayan cultures in northwestern Central America and other Indigenous civilizations in South America, much of Costa Rica’s early history is undocumented.

SPANISH COLONIALISM

When Christopher Columbus first arrived on the Caribbean coast in 1502, he was met by gold-toting members of small Indigenous communities established near modern-day Limón. Dazzled by the metal (and even more so by the quantity of it), Columbus returned to Europe with tales that ignited tremendous greed and ambition. Spanish explorers came to Costa Rica—literally, the “Rich Coast”—soon after in search of wealth. Colonization attempts by several Spanish conquistadores, including Columbus’s successor, Diego de Nicuesa, were thwarted by challenging terrain and territorial native peoples. In 1513, Vasco Núñez de Balboa managed to travel over the mountains of the Central American isthmus to discover the Pacific coast. By the 1520s, most invaders had either died or returned to Europe. For the most part, Costa Rica was left alone.

Roughly 40 years later, Spaniards returned to the territory to brutally claim it as their own. They waged a bloody war on the native peoples, who defended themselves with equally violent guerrilla tactics. Tuberculosis, smallpox, and ophthalmia, brought by the Europeans, spread like wildfire, resulting in a significant decline in Indigenous populations. Many native Costa Ricans who escaped the inadvertent germ warfare retreated to remote mountain areas.

In 1563, Spaniard Juan Vázquez de Coronado chose Cartago as the colony’s capital city. Officially part of the Spanish Empire, cities in the Central Valley, known today as San José, Heredia, and Alajuela, were formed. The aristocratic colonists, with little agricultural experience and no Indigenous labor force, struggled to cultivate the land and construct their settlement.

ERA OF INDEPENDENCE

Following Mexico’s 11-year War of Independence with Spain, which won Mexico its independence in 1821, Central American nations fell under the Mexican Empire. Not wanting to be governed by Mexico, the Central American countries briefly formed their own coalition in 1823 before going their separate ways. Although full independence wasn’t granted to Costa Rica until 1838, citizens celebrate the country’s 1821 separation from Spain on September 15 each year.

The century that followed Costa Rica’s acquisition of independence was a tumultuous but promising era. Several setbacks deferred progress, including attacks on San José by its neighboring cities during the 1835 Guerra de la Liga (War of the League), in which San José proved victorious, and the 1856 invasion (and eventual defeat) of American William Walker and his troops via Nicaragua.

There were plenty of successes as well, propelling Costa Rica to power and self-sufficiency. President Juan Mora Fernández, Costa Rica’s first elected head of state (1824-1833), helped establish the country’s judicial and education systems. President Braulio Carrillo Colina (1835-1842) developed public administration and fought for Costa Rica’s autonomy from the rest of Central America, which earned him the nicknames the “liberator” and the “architect” of the state.

Coffee brought small-scale farmers and elite manufacturers together and was considered the new gold of the nation by the mid-1800s. The coffee baron Juan Rafael Mora Porras was even president during this period (1849-1859). Liberal leader Tomás Guardia Gutiérrez (two-time president, 1870-1882) abolished capital punishment, invested in infrastructure, and guaranteed free primary education to all Costa Ricans.

The era also saw the construction of Costa Rica’s national railroad, connecting the Central Valley to the Caribbean port in Limón. Until the railroad’s completion, coffee was transported by oxcart from the Central Valley to the Pacific port in Puntarenas, then shipped by boat via a three-month journey around South America to Europe. Minor Keith, a nephew of American railroad builder Henry Meiggs, oversaw construction of the track and planted bananas throughout the process. As a side business, he exported the fruit, which received rave reviews. Together with the Boston Fruit Company, Keith cofounded the United Fruit Company (known today as Chiquita Brands International), which propelled the growth of Costa Rica’s Banana Empire. By the early 1900s, bananas surpassed coffee as the nation’s top export.

CIVIL WAR AND CONTEMPORARY TIMES

From the turn of the 20th century until the mid-1900s, Costa Rica endured a period of increased tensions. Changes in tax laws that required higher payments from the wealthy drew outrage from the upper class. The Great Depression and a simultaneous downturn in the coffee industry brought economic struggle and social unrest. Polarization across political parties divided the nation. Some residents, mainly the elite, were frustrated with the government under the rule of controversial president Rafael Ángel Calderón Guardia (1940-1944), who aimed to help the non-wealthy through the development of national health care and the public University of Costa Rica.

Elections in 1944 and 1948 produced presidential results stained with fraud. On March 10, 1948, activist José María Figueres Ferrer (nicknamed Don Pepe) led a revolution to overthrow the government alongside the Ejército de Liberación Nacional (National Liberation Army). The six-week civil war won Calderón Guardia’s surrender and cost the lives of roughly 2,000 people, most of whom were civilians. That same year, Figueres Ferrer, who served as president on three separate occasions following the revolt, abolished the nation’s army in an act of peace meant to stabilize turbulent times. One of Costa Rica’s most respected leaders, he went on to give women the right to vote and Afro-descendants the right to apply for citizenship.

Following the civil war, Costa Rica experienced a relatively uneventful 30-year run until economic crises set in during the 1980s. The first presidential term of economist Óscar Arias Sánchez (president 1986-1990 and 2006-2010) couldn’t have come at a better time; he got to work on broadening the country’s sources of income, especially with respect to tourism. A supporter of international amity, Arias also helped alleviate stress on the country through the development of peace plans shared with other Central American nations; the progress earned him a Nobel Prize in 1987. The wheels he set in motion to make Costa Rica a carbon-neutral country are still chugging away, adding further acclaim to the former president’s legacy.

Today, issues surrounding social and economic inequality continue to weigh on the nation and take precedence in political platforms. Equality is becoming more evident in Costa Rica’s highest office, which younger generations hope will trickle down to the rest of the republic. Laura Chinchilla Miranda was the country’s first female president (2010-2014). The youngest of Costa Rica’s elected presidents (age 38 at the time of his inauguration) was Carlos Alvarado Quesada (2018-2022), a politician, novelist, and rock singer. His pick for vice president was the country’s first female Afro-descendant to hold the title, and, for the first time in Costa Rica’s history, the president’s cabinet consisted of more women than men. Current leader Rodrigo Chaves Robles, who became Costa Rica’s 49th president in 2022, is an economist embroiled in controversy. Time will tell whether his presidency builds on the momentum of progress or ultimately slows it.

Tensions remain high between Costa Rica and Nicaragua, largely due to long-running disputes over ownership of Río San Juan (San Juan River) despite resolutions being handed down (in Costa Rica’s favor) from the United Nations’ top court. Ongoing civil unrest in Nicaragua, which has led to an increase in illegal Nicaraguan immigrants in Costa Rica, has only worsened the conflict.

Government and Economy

GOVERNMENT

Costa Rica is a democratic republic with a stable, responsible government. Governance is divided among three branches: executive, legislative, and judicial. The executive branch is overseen by the president, who is responsible for choosing two vice presidents as well as various cabinet ministers, ambassadors, and provincial governors.

The legislative branch largely represents the people. Fifty-seven diputados (deputies) from various political parties fill seats within the Asamblea Legislativa (Legislative Assembly) and act as voices for residents of all seven provinces.

The judicial branch manages various courts, from local civil courts to Costa Rica’s Corte Suprema de Justicia (Supreme Court of Justice) in downtown San José. It also operates the Organismo de Investigación Judicial (Judicial Investigation Agency, OIJ; https://sitiooij.poder-judicial.go.cr [URL inactive]), the country’s top crime investigation unit. The OIJ has offices around the country but is headquartered in the capital.

Political Parties and Elections

In order to become president, candidates must be older than 30, and they must have been born in the country; candidates cannot have been employed with the government for at least two months prior to running for office. Once elected, a president is in power for a four-year term. While running for a second term is permitted, serving consecutive terms is not.

National elections are held every four years in Costa Rica and often require three voting rounds. During the first, citizens elect party leaders from proposed party candidates. Following competitive campaigns, Ticos take to the polls on election day. The legal voting age in Costa Rica is 18.

The presidency is won with 40 percent of the vote, but since this is rarely received, a follow-up vote between the top two determines the winner. Costa Rica has more than 10 political parties, but only six hold seats in the 2022-2026 term of the Asamblea Legislativa. Current president Rodrigo Chaves Robles belongs to the Partido Progreso Social Democrático (Social Democratic Progress Party, PPSD, green, white, and blue); however, the Partido Liberación Nacional (National Liberation Party, PLN, green and white) holds the majority of seats in the assembly.

On the municipal level, additional elections are held in many cities and towns to determine an alcalde (mayor) and regidores (councilors).

ECONOMY

Costa Rica’s income is from a variety of sources, most notably agricultural and technological product exports, and the country’s booming tourism industry. In 2017, exports of products and services brought in $11 billion, nearly 20 percent of the country’s gross domestic product ($57 billion) for the same year. Tourism is estimated to contribute an additional 17 percent to the total GDP.

Agriculture

The many agricultural fields and warehouses that can be seen all over Costa Rica are responsible for the country’s 4,000 different product exports, most of which end up in North American, European, or Central American countries. Top products are bananas and pineapples (mainly grown in the Caribbean region) and coffee (mostly from the Central Valley and Highlands). Other exports include watermelons and cantaloupes (from Guanacaste); meat and dairy products (from the northern inland area); vegetables, flowers, and ornamental plants (from the Central Valley and Highlands); mangoes (from the central Pacific region); palm oil (from the central Pacific region and the Osa Peninsula); and cacao (from the Caribbean region).

Medicine and Technology

Recent years have seen Costa Rica make a name for itself in the medical technology industry as a producer of high-quality medical devices. Supplying employment to more than 20,000 residents (more than half of whom are women), the growing field brings in millions of dollars annually and has helped Costa Rica forge important relationships with medical companies around the world.

Helping fuel the economy through microchip processing is the technology company Intel, which established itself here in the 1990s, abruptly closed its production plant in 2014, and then restarted operations in 2021. It also provides employment opportunities in software support. Textile factories, mainly in and around the Central Valley, provide additional earnings and jobs.

Tourism

With nearly 2.5 million annual international arrivals as of 2023, Costa Rica owes much of its stable economy to tourism. Roughly 9 percent of working Costa Ricans are direct employees of the tourism industry, which spans a multitude of jobs, including hotel, restaurant, and airport workers, tour guides, and tourism office staff. Indirectly, tourism’s reach is immeasurable, as everyone from the farmers who cultivate the food travelers eat to the accountants who handle tourism tax payments are part of the industry. Accommodations and food represent more than 40 percent of the industry’s earnings.

People and Culture

DEMOGRAPHY

As of 2023, Costa Rica’s population was 5.2 million. More than 70 percent live in urban centers, mainly in and around the Central Valley, with the remaining inhabitants spread across rural areas. Foreign nationals account for roughly 8 percent of the country’s total population. The average life expectancy is 80 years, 77.5 years for men and 82.5 years for women.

Life in Costa Rica is pura vida. Literally translated as “pure life,” the phrase represents the low-stress, unrushed lifestyle practiced by most Ticos. You’ll hear and see the slogan no matter where you travel in the country, and it’s a constant reminder of the positive vibe that pulses throughout the nation.

In practice, pura vida appears in many forms. It is the strong familial bonds that unify many Ticos, including families that choose to live close to one another throughout their lives and spend time together on a regular, sometimes daily, basis. Elders, usually matriarchs, are looked up to as the head of the household.

Pura vida is also the social atmosphere that wafts about most towns. Friends gather in restaurants, bars, and parks to chat. Celebratory events, like birthdays and weddings, are often neighborhood affairs where everyone is welcome. Strangers, when they pass each other on the street, exchange smiles and salutations without hesitation. At its core, pura vida is Costa Rica’s openness to interaction. Within the tourism industry, non-damaging immersion in nature and peaceful interaction with wildlife embody the pura vida way.

A typical workday in the life of a Tico varies. Many businesspeople, most of whom work in and around the Central Valley, lead fast-paced, high-pressure lives. The majority of Costa Ricans, however, carry out their work in an easygoing but professional manner in offices, institutions, and factories around the country. Those who have jobs requiring manual labor, most notably in the agriculture industry, are notoriously hardworking. My husband, who earned his strong work ethic from an early age picking coffee beans on the steep slopes of Costa Rican plantations, is one of many Ticos who can attest to the physical and mental struggle that often comes with making a living in the nation.

Family structures vary as well. Traditionally, women had several children, but families are slowly decreasing in size as more women opt to enter the workforce. Women who choose to extend their education at postsecondary institutions typically start their family later in life, which also contributes to the decline in family size. Many families are blended, as mothers and fathers bring together children from previous relationships to form new family units. Marriage is common, but many people prefer to live as common-law couples. Divorce is legal.

According to the national census in 2011, Costa Rica is largely a homogeneous nation where more than 90 percent of the population self-identifies as being white or of mixed ancestry. Other individuals self-identify as being Indigenous (2.5 percent), Black or Afro-descendant (1 percent), or Chinese (0.2 percent). Remaining individuals (6 percent) either declare their ethnicity or race as Other or None, or prefer not to identify with an ethnicity or race.

Caribbean Descendants

One of the most heterogeneous regions in Costa Rica is the Caribbean, a mosaic of Afro-descendant (also called Afro-Caribbean or Afro-Costa Rican), Indigenous, Chinese, and Mestizo cultures. Afro-descendants, many of whom are descendants of Jamaicans who traveled to the country in the late 1800s to help build the national railroad, are largely responsible for the region’s distinct feel. Due to segregation laws that prohibited Afro-descendants from residing outside Limón province until 1949, much of the Caribbean influence brought to the country stayed by the coast. Today, Afro-descendant culture enlivens the country with catchy music, colorful dwellings, flavorful food, and expressions of peace and love. This culture is largely what draws travelers to the Caribbean. It’s also a beloved part of Costa Rica’s rich soul.

Pura Vida and the Tico Spirit

There’s a pleasantness that permeates Tiquicia—the land of Ticos (Costa Ricans)—and makes the country a warm, inviting destination. Locals call it pura vida, referring to their famously laid-back lifestyle. Foreigners call it happiness. According to the Happy Planet Index, which considers life expectancy, well-being, equality, and a country’s ecological footprint in its evaluation, Costa Rica is one of the happiest nations in the world. The country regularly ranks high on the index and claimed the top spot in 2009, 2012, 2016, and 2021—four out of the five years that the index published an edition. Perhaps the vibe can be attributed to peace, synonymous with Costa Rica ever since the country abolished its army in 1948. According to the Global Peace Index (2018), Costa Rica has a “high state of peace” and is the most peaceful nation across Central America and the Caribbean.

I like to call this force the “Tico spirit.” I believe it has a lot to do with the mind-set and behavior of many Costa Ricans who approach life in a straightforward way. They’re not averse to working hard, but they know money and prestige aren’t everything. Family, friends, exercise, and downtime are most important, and, if you believe Dan Buettner’s work on Blue Zones (regions of the world where people live the longest; Costa Rica made the top five), each is crucial for longevity. Since Costa Rica’s average life expectancy is higher than that of the United States, the locals must be doing something right.

The Tico spirit can also be enlivening and inspiring. I’ve seen it pull people together during thrilling sports competitions and devastating natural disasters. I’ve seen it encourage conservation and changes in outdated laws. I’ve seen it teach many people—locals and travelers alike—how to take notice of, appreciate, and learn from what gives them joy.

Asian and European Descendants

A small percentage of Costa Ricans are descendants from Asian and European nations, mainly China, Spain, and Italy. Like the ancestors of many Afro-descendants, the ancestors of some Asian Costa Ricans and Italian Costa Ricans were brought to the country to construct the railroad. Following the arrival of many Asian Costa Ricans by boat via the Pacific, the port town of Puntarenas became a settling ground. A noticeable community of Asian Costa Ricans remains in the city today, as well as in San José, which has its own Barrio China (Chinatown). European descendants are spread around Costa Rica. The largest concentration of Italian Costa Ricans is in the south (near the border at Panama), where many settled in the mid-1900s to escape postwar socioeconomic crises in Europe. Italian influence is also felt in the beach town of Sámara on the Nicoya Peninsula.

Indigenous Groups

The 2.5 percent of Costa Ricans who self-identify as Indigenous span eight ethnic groups. Typically residing in mountainous areas are the Chorotega (sometimes cited as the Matambú, on the Nicoya Peninsula), the Maleku (in the Northern Inlands), the Huetar (sometimes cited as the Quitirrisí, in the Central Valley and Highlands), the Bribri and the Cabecar (both in the Caribbean and the southern part of the Central Highlands), and the Boruca, the Térraba, and the Guaymí (sometimes referred to as the Ngäbe or the Ngöbe, in the south). Great diversity exists across group members. Roughly 75 percent of all Indigenous people in Costa Rica live in traditional communities on Indigenous reserves and have limited interaction with non-Indigenous Costa Ricans. The remaining 25 percent have assimilated into Costa Rican society at large.

masks made by Indigenous Boruca people

Some Indigenous group members work in the tourism industry to help non-Indigenous Costa Ricans and tourists better understand their beliefs and traditions. Near their village in the Northern Inlands, members of the Maleku Indigenous group wear traditional clothing, demonstrate cultural dances, and display handicrafts for visitors during guided gatherings. In the southern Caribbean, members of the Bribri Indigenous group welcome visitors into their communities with lessons in cooking, cacao processing, medicinal plant use, and archery. Arranged as guided day tours, visits to the Indigenous communities can be booked through Life Culture & Travel Costa Rica (tel. 506/2750-2158; www.lifeculturetravelcostarica.com), a Puerto Viejo de Talamanca-based business run by a Bribri woman.

Much like the devastating effects of deforestation on Costa Rica’s natural environment, the acquisition of Indigenous land by non-Indigenous individuals has contributed to Costa Rica’s diminishing Indigenous culture. Although the Indigenous Law of 1977 aimed to curb land loss within Indigenous reserves and to ensure that stolen land be returned to Indigenous ownership, the groups today still only govern a fraction of the land they are due. Sadly, when Indigenous groups speak out on issues that impact their communities, especially in opposition to encroaching development projects, their opinions are given only marginal attention.

RELIGION

Nearly three-quarters of Costa Rica’s population self-identify as Roman Catholic, with roughly two-thirds of the group claiming to actively practice the religion. Most remaining Ticos are Evangelists. Small percentages represent Jehovah’s Witness and other faiths or individuals who choose to follow no religion at all. Some people in the Caribbean practice Rastafari, also known as Rastafarianism, a Jamaican religion established in the 1930s.

Faith is well celebrated in Costa Rica. Religious holidays, including Navidad (Christmas) and Semana Santa (Holy Week), the week leading up to Easter Sunday, call for church visits, decorative displays that depict religious scenes, and parades where crosses and statues of religious figures are carried through town centers. Other events, like the Romería de la Virgen de los Ángeles (Pilgrimage of the Virgin of the Angels) and the Fiesta de la Virgen del Mar (Virgin of the Sea Festival), pay homage to patron saints. Even the local language incorporates religion in many uses. Personal requests are often followed with “si Dios quiere” (“God willing”), and departures typically receive a blessing of “que Dios lo acompañe” (“May God accompany you”).

Costa Rican Traditions: Punto Guanacasteco and Bombas

A common sight at festivals, events, and holiday celebrations in Costa Rica, especially in Guanacaste, is the Punto Guanacasteco—an animated and synchronized folkloric dance that is a treat to see. Dancers circle around one another while men wave pañuelos (handkerchiefs) and women twist colorful, ruffled enaguas largas (long skirts). The display is enlivened by the tropical sounds of marimbas, guitars, and horns, joined by several enthusiastic güipipías (shouts) from delighted spectators.

Midway through the dance, the music and action halts, and one of the performers yells “Bomba!” The term refers to poetic, four-line rhyming statements used to show endearment to loved ones or imaginary figures. (Don’t confuse this with the more literal translation of the word, which can mean “gas station” or “firework.”) The expressions are usually good-humored and invite big laughs, but they can also be used to deliver zingers or insults in nontraditional settings. Men, women, and children perform the bits, delivering classic lines that have been passed down through generations. The country’s best recitalists, however, are adept at improvisation and regularly invent new statements.

If you plan to visit Costa Rica in mid-September, you can catch the dance as part of festivities hosted around the country for Día de la Independencia (Independence Day). The dance can also be seen in Guanacaste—mainly in Liberia, Tamarindo, and Playas del Coco—during celebrations of the Anexión de Guanacaste (Annexation of Guanacaste) near the end of July.

LANGUAGE

Latin American Spanish is the primary language spoken in Costa Rica. Tiquismos (Costa Rican slang words and phrases) like mae (dude) and tuanis (good, used to imply coolness) add local flair. In the Caribbean, Jamaican Patois (also called Patwah, an English-based creole language) is used. Elsewhere in the country, primarily on protected reserves, the use of Chibchan languages is maintained by members of some of Costa Rica’s Indigenous groups. In regions with tourism, English is spoken and understood, although to varying degrees.

THE ARTS

Costa Rica’s contribution to the arts is somewhat understated, especially with respect to visual and performance arts; contributions in literature, cinema, and fashion are fewer still. Some of the most beloved artworks displayed in the country weren’t crafted by Costa Ricans, and many that were drew little attention from international critics. Slowly gaining popularity are small but mighty community organizations committed to saving the arts. They’re responsible for the few small-scale art festivals and large-scale street murals you may encounter along the coasts, especially in Jacó and Tamarindo.

If you’re looking for Costa Rican art, several museums in San José showcase rotating exhibits, including the Museo de Arte Costarricense (Museum of Costa Rican Art) and the Museo de Arte y Diseño Contemporáneo (Museum of Art and Contemporary Design). Studios, galleries, and art shops dot the nation; I particularly like the informal collection in the Monteverde vicinity. Indigenous communities almost always have local art available for purchase, and Galería Namu in downtown San José displays and sells pieces that represent a variety of groups. The Central Valley and Highlands town of Sarchí has several fábricas de carretas (oxcart factories) that reveal the artistry behind the craftsmanship and decoration of Costa Rica’s vibrant oxcarts. Other towns and cities display sculptures or topiary art that may catch your eye. Accommodations, regardless of where you travel, almost always incorporate local art in the decor, whether it’s Indigenous art or paintings of flora, fauna, and rural scenes.

Admired locally, music and dance are regular inclusions in traditional Costa Rican celebrations. Live music in a range of styles fills many bars and restaurants, and cultural dance presentations are provided at a few.

Calypso and reggae music resound throughout the Caribbean. Numerous music festivals are hosted around the nation. Catchy mariachi-inspired rancheros (ranch music) and songs played on the marimba, Costa Rica’s national instrument, are frequently heard. Common dances include merengue, cumbia, salsa, and the folkloric dance known as the Punto Guanacasteco.

Professional performing arts liven San José’s large collection of small theaters, but the country’s best (including theater shows and orchestral symphonies) are held at the capital’s Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica (National Theater of Costa Rica).

Essentials

Transportation

GETTING THERE

GETTING AROUND

Visas and Officialdom

DOCUMENTS AND REQUIREMENTS

FOREIGN EMBASSIES

Recreation

ZIP-LINING

WHITE-WATER RAFTING

HOT SPRINGS

BEACHES

SURFING, SNORKELING, SCUBA DIVING, AND FREE DIVING

SEA TURTLE NESTING TOURS

HIKING

HANGING BRIDGES

Food

TYPICAL DISHES

DIETARY RESTRICTIONS

DRINKS

RESTAURANTS

Accommodations

ECO-FRIENDLY ACCOMMODATIONS

HOSTELS

HOTELS

BED-AND-BREAKFASTS

RANCHES AND LODGES

RESORTS

VACATION HOME RENTALS

HOMESTAYS

Conduct and Customs

SALUTATIONS AND ETIQUETTE

PUNCTUALITY

HOLIDAYS, FESTIVALS, AND EVENTS

Health and Safety

HEALTH

MEDICAL CARE

SAFETY

Travel Tips

WHAT TO PACK

MONEY

COMMUNICATIONS

SPANISH-LANGUAGE SCHOOLS

OPPORTUNITIES FOR VOLUNTEERING

ACCESS FOR TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES

TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN

WOMEN TRAVELING ALONE

RACIAL AND CULTURAL DIVERSITY

LGBTQ TRAVELERS

SENIOR TRAVELERS

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

TIME ZONE

BUSINESS HOURS

TOURIST INFORMATION

overnight guests in Parque Nacional Corcovado.

Transportation

GETTING THERE

Air

Most visitors to Costa Rica arrive by flying into one of the country’s two primary international airports. Which to choose, beyond schedule availability and flight costs, depends largely on where you intend to travel in Costa Rica.

Juan Santamaría International Airport

The most popular of the two airports is the large and modern Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría (Juan Santamaría International Airport, SJO; tel. 506/2437-2400; https://sjoairport.com), located just outside Alajuela city, a 20-minute drive northwest of San José. Centrally located, the airport is the preferred starting point of most travelers, who find it easy to depart from the hub in a variety of directions. Choose this airport as a starting point if you plan to travel to the following regions: La Fortuna and Monteverde, the central Pacific coast, the Osa Peninsula, or the Caribbean region.

The airport has snack bars and full-service restaurants, complimentary Wi-Fi, currency exchange booths, and a SIM card vendor—everything you might need before hitting the road. Over 25 airlines fly from 45 destinations worldwide. The airport’s website provides a comprehensive list, including telephone numbers for each airline. It also displays up-to-date arrival and departure information.

Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport/Guanacaste Airport

Just west of Liberia, in the northwest corner of the country, the Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós (Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport, LIR; tel. 506/2666-9600; www.guanacasteairport.com), also called the Guanacaste Airport, serves travelers destined for coastal areas in Guanacaste and the northern Nicoya Peninsula. If you plan to travel to the southern Nicoya Peninsula, you can choose either LIR or SJO. Renovated twice between 2012 and 2018, the airport is smaller and less chaotic than SJO but still offers useful amenities, including a few restaurants and shops. Most of these can only be accessed by departing passengers. Some 16 airlines serve the airport. Real-time flight arrivals and departures are found on the airport’s website.

Boat

More than 200 cruise ships arrive in Costa Rica each year from cruise lines that include Royal Caribbean, Carnival, Princess, Windstar, Disney, Celebrity, Regent, Marella, and Oceana. Most visit the ports in Limón (on the Caribbean coast) or Puntarenas (on the Pacific coast), but others dock at ports in Caldera, Quepos, and Golfito (also on the Pacific coast).

Overland

Tica Bus (tel. 506/2296-9788; www.ticabus.com) offers routes into Costa Rica from both Nicaragua and Panama. Regardless of your origin point, you’ll be limited to two bags, each weighing maximum 15 kg (33 lb); additional baggage is permitted at an extra cost when space permits. Tickets must be reserved in advance via the Tica Bus website. The website also permits seat selection. One-way ticket purchases are allowed. Round-trip tickets are available for purchase but do not usually provide cost savings. Tica Bus uses air-conditioned coach buses equipped with reclining seats, TVs, Wi-Fi, and a restroom.

The Caribbean-based transportation company Caribe Shuttle (tel. 506/2750-0626; www.caribeshuttle.com) operates shared shuttle services to numerous destinations in Costa Rica from Nicaragua and Panama. Each shuttle typically carries 10 passengers and has air-conditioning but no restroom or TV. Some vehicles are equipped with Wi-Fi.

From Nicaragua

Some travelers (mainly backpackers) cross into Costa Rica from the northwest via Nicaragua. The most common border crossing is in the Guanacaste town of Peñas Blancas. A far less common border crossing is farther east, on the north side of the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro, at Las Tablillas/Los Chiles.

Tica Bus operates daily buses to San José from Nicaragua’s capital city, Managua (6am daily; 11 hours; $33). Buses depart from Tica Bus’s main terminal in Managua and can offer pickups at seven other destinations in the country. Drop-offs are at Tica Bus’s main terminal in San José. Alternately, you can disembark at one of 25 stops along the way, including Liberia and the Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría in Alajuela.

Caribe Shuttle can pick you up at your hotel in Nicaragua’s coastal town of San Juan del Sur (6am daily; 3-13 hours; $47-125 pp) and shuttle you to hotels in San José, Liberia, La Fortuna, Monteverde, Tamarindo, Cahuita, and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

From Panama

To reach Costa Rica from the southeast via Panama, border crossings are at Sixaola (on the Caribbean side of the country) and Paso Canoas (on the Pacific side of the country).

Tica Bus operates daily buses to San José from Panamá City (7am daily; 16 hours; $58 pp), Panama’s capital. Buses depart from the main terminal in Panamá City and can pick up passengers from eight other destinations in the country. Drop-offs are at Tica Bus’s main terminal in San José. Alternately, you can get off at one of seven stops along the way, including several popular beach towns along the central Pacific coast.

From your hotel in Panama’s coastal town of Bocas del Toro (6am daily; 4-11 hours; $35-87 pp), Caribe Shuttle can deliver you to hotels in San José, La Fortuna, Cahuita, and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

GETTING AROUND

Air

Several popular destinations in Costa Rica have domestic airports, and a few remote areas provide private landing strips. On the western edge of San José is the Aeropuerto Internacional Tobías Bolaños (Tobías Bolaños International Airport, SYQ). Though it’s technically an international airport, it operates primarily as a domestic one. It used to be the country’s most visited small-scale airport but has dwindled in popularity since losing the well-known local flight provider Nature Air in 2018. SANSA Airlines (tel. 506/2290-4100; www.flysansa.com), which operates out of Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría, currently serves as the best provider for in-country flights.

Domestic flights offer several advantages and disadvantages. They can be more or less expensive than other modes of transportation, but there’s no question they save a ton of time, especially getting to and from the distant Osa Peninsula. Environmentally conscious travelers should be concerned about the carbon output of each flight, especially given that most planes seat only 12 passengers.

If money is no concern, private air travel in the form of charter flights can be arranged through providers like SANSA Airlines.

Bus

Costa Rican buses are known for being crowded and having windows that slide open just a crack; bumpy roads mean rides aren’t always comfortable. However, Costa Rica’s public bus system is a model transportation operation in Central America. There are plenty of routes, and buses are generally punctual.

Most passengers are Ticos, so ticket prices are refreshingly inexpensive, making buses a great option for travelers on a tight budget. Those in search of an authentic Costa Rican experience will love riding the bus, especially routes marked colectivo (collective), which make several stops in small towns along the way. If you’re itching to get to your next destination, hop on a bus marked directo (direct), which should provide nonstop service or make only one or two quick stops along the way.

Travel around Costa Rica by bus sometimes requires connections, and these may call for a walk or taxi ride between bus stations. It pays to plan out your routes before you travel to avoid ending up at the wrong destination or spending more time and money than necessary getting to where you need to be. Check (and double-check) destination names carefully. Beware of similar names, like Puerto Viejo de Talamanca and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí; these places are 200 km (124 mi) apart!

If you plan to travel by bus, it’s a good idea to prepare yourself for the unexpected. Every bus, operator, and route is different. In some cases, usually for longer routes, you’ll be riding in a comfortable air-conditioned bus with your luggage tucked away in a storage compartment below the vehicle. In others, you’ll be sandwiched between your neighbor and a humidity-drenched window with your belongings stacked on your lap. Sometimes you can arrive at a station, prepurchase a ticket with an assigned seat number, and board the bus when it’s time to go. For another route, after purchasing a general ticket, you may need to join a line by the bus’s front door and claim a seat on a first-come, first-served basis. If you can, arrive at bus stations at least an hour before departure so you have time to sort out logistics and wait in line if necessary. Keep some small denomination colones handy; several bus stations charge a fee (typically 500 colones) to use the restroom.

Rental Car

Renting a vehicle in Costa Rica rewards you with complete freedom. As you drive around the country, you can stop to shop, dine, or take photos; follow detours whenever you desire; and get to know the open road. Most rental agencies have multiple offices scattered around popular tourist towns. Many (some for a fee) allow vehicle pickups in one city and drop-offs in another as well as convenient vehicle deliveries and returns at airports and accommodations. Nearly all agencies require renters to be at least age 25 and have a valid driver’s license in their home country as well as a credit card.

You should rent a vehicle in Costa Rica only if you feel comfortable driving abroad, you are familiar with Costa Rica’s driving laws, and you have access to a reliable GPS system (either rented through a vehicle agency or brought from home), not only for navigational support but also to help identify one-way streets and traffic jams. In most areas of the country where Wi-Fi signal is decent, you can get away with using Google Maps or Waze on devices like cell phones, laptops, and tablets.

Vehicle types vary across agencies. Nearly all offer a few sedans, several 4WD options that vary in size, and your choice of a manual or automatic transmission. Rental costs are determined by a variety of factors, including vehicle size, rental duration, rental pickup and drop-off locations, insurance preferences, and optional add-ons. Among these are a GPS system, cell phone, car seat, cooler, and a rooftop carrier known as a canasta. Each add-on is subject to availability and best requested at the time of reservation.

If you’re unsure whether you need a 4WD vehicle, rent one anyway. Road trips to beaches and attractions, as well as entrances to some accommodations, lead down rugged roads that are a far cry from paved highways. Routes in backroad areas can be steep, rocky, or overrun with flooded rivers. Some areas of the country are known for having roads that become impassable during the green (wet) season. Other times, a fallen tree might be enough to halt your journey.

For years, my go-to provider has been Mapache Rent-A-Car (offices in San José, Alajuela, and Liberia; tel. 506/2586-6363; www.mapache.com; hours vary by office). I like that the rental agency offers transparent price quotes, which helps renters avoid surprise charges. I also appreciate that the organization has earned the highest ranking of the Certificación para la Sostenibilidad Turística (Certification of Sustainable Tourism, CST). Through water recycling, material composting, and practically turning its head office in San José into a greenhouse, Mapache earned the distinction of being one of few sustainable vehicle rental agencies in the country.

Crossing Costa Rica’s Borders

I have a love-hate relationship with Costa Rica’s border crossings. It’s great being able to explore the neighboring countries of Panama and Nicaragua. But long lines, piles of paperwork, and the ambiguity of border crossing requirements can be downright frustrating for travelers. There are some things you cannot control, like delays and grumpy customs officials, but you can help your travel experience be as stress-free as possible by arriving at a frontera (border) prepared.

You’ll need to pay a land exit tax ($8-10 pp) to leave Costa Rica, complete paperwork at a Costa Rican oficina de migración (migration office), physically cross the border, complete additional paperwork at the destination country’s migration office, and possibly pay an entrance fee ($14 pp to enter Nicaragua; entrance to Panama is free, though you’ll be asked to make a $3 voluntary payment). The land exit tax must be paid through Banco de Costa Rica (BCR), either online with a credit card via the BCR website (www.bancobcr.com [URL inactive]) or in person at any BCR bank in the country. Though some border towns have BCR kiosks that accept payment of the fee, they’re often out of service, so it’s best to complete the payment process before you travel to the area. Don’t be alarmed if representatives hand you paperwork to fill out as you approach a migration office line. This is to help expedite processing times, especially during busy periods.

Border towns are not safe tourist destinations. Most don’t offer decent lodging or dining opportunities, so avoid staying overnight. If you’re traveling by bus, depart in the morning so you arrive at the border as early as possible. The later you arrive, the more likely an unforeseen delay will lead to a missed connection, which could leave you stranded in an unsafe area.

MIGRATION OFFICE LOCATIONS

• Southern Caribbean: Costa Rica’s migration office at Sixaola (tel. 506/2754-2044; 7am-5pm daily) is 200 m (219 yd) north of the border with Panama.

• Southern Pacific: Costa Rica’s migration office at Paso Canoas (tel. 506/2732-2150; 24 hours daily) is across from the bus station, 100 m (109 yd) northwest of the border with Panama.

• Guanacaste: Costa Rica’s migration office at Peñas Blancas (tel. 506/2677-0230; 6am-midnight daily) is by the bus station, 350 m (0.2 mi) south of the border with Nicaragua.

• Northern Inlands: Costa Rica’s migration office at Las Tablillas/Los Chiles (tel. 506/2299-8048; 8am-5pm Mon.-Fri., 8am-4pm Sat.-Sun.) is immediately south of the border with Nicaragua.

BE PREPARED

• You may be pulled over on the side of the highway as part of a routine police check within a few kilometers of any border town.

• Prepay the land exit tax before traveling to the border, and keep your electronic or paper receipt (called a comprobante) handy when visiting the migration office.

• You should be able to provide proof of funds (at least US$300) and proof of exit from the country you plan to enter within 90 days. Proof of exit must be in the form of a confirmed bus ticket, flight, or cruise ship departure.

• You may have your bags searched after crossing into a new country.

• Have your passport and at least two hard copies of the identification page handy. Bring a pen to fill out paperwork.

• Keep all paperwork and receipts you are given. You may need to show them later, especially if you plan to reenter Costa Rica.

• Make sure your passport gets marked with entrance and exit stamps when you enter and depart countries.

• Exchange your Costa Rican colones into Panamanian balboas or Nicaraguan córdobas before arriving at a border (if desired). Another option is to exchange money through unofficial parties who loiter around border crossings, but make sure you know the going exchange rate to avoid a bad deal.

• Set your watch or clock one hour later than Costa Rica time if you’re entering Panama.

Gas Stations

Most gas stations around the country do not offer self-serve pumps or English-speaking attendants. When an employee approaches your window, say “Lleno, por favor, regular,” which translates to “Full, please, regular,” assuming you want standard unleaded fuel. Payment is typically accepted in cash (colones or U.S. dollars) or by credit card. In remote areas, gas stations are few and far between, and it helps to know where they are before getting on the road. Always keep your tank above the halfway mark, filling up wherever you can, so you’re less likely to find yourself strapped for gas if you end up in an area without fuel.

Parking

Downtown San José has several public parking lots. In destinations outside the capital, secure places to park are practically nonexistent beyond the confines of private properties such as accommodations, tour offices, and restaurants. Locals often park vehicles haphazardly along the sides of streets and at the back of beaches. Several beaches have an unofficial watchman who promises to keep an eye on vehicles for tips. I usually pay $1-2 for every hour of parking time. No matter where you park, always lock your vehicle and never leave belongings in plain sight.

Traffic Regulations

You must be at least age 21 and have a valid driver’s license from your home country and a passport to drive in Costa Rica. The policía de tránsito (transit police), who typically ride in navy-blue pickup trucks, are responsible for traffic enforcement. You must abide by the speed limit (generally 80 km/50 mi per hour on highways and 60 km/37 mi per hour on other roads), wear a seat belt when driving, and be able to provide your license, passport, and vehicle documentation if asked.

Car Rental Insurance

Driving around Costa Rica can be freeing, but car rental insurance is a tangled issue. Not only is there a ton of fine print to deal with, but surprise charges not disclosed at the time of reservation can be downright frustrating. Before you travel, and even before you reserve a car for your trip, be sure to review this information.

There are two types of car rental insurance in Costa Rica. As mandated by the Instituto Nacional de Seguros (INS, National Insurance Institute), the first type, commonly cited as SLI insurance (also known as TPL insurance), must be acquired in Costa Rica. Typically purchased through the rental agency, this insurance provides coverage for damage caused to other drivers and their vehicles. The second type, which is technically a waiver, provides limited coverage for damage caused to you and your rental car (according to a set deductible). It can be acquired from providers outside Costa Rica, such as credit card companies in your home country. It’s important to note that there’s no universal term for either type of insurance, so you may see other names used.

Most rental agencies require renters to purchase both types of insurance. Many rental agencies will require you to supply proof that the second type of insurance was acquired elsewhere, usually in the form of a letter from the insurance provider.

Not all rental agencies include the cost of both insurance types in their quotes. Some agencies market the two insurance types together and automatically include the combined insurance cost in their quotes. If you’re able to provide proof of partial insurance acquired elsewhere, the quote can then be reduced to reflect the cost of SLI insurance only.

Other rental agencies opt to include only SLI insurance in their quotes, which helps them appear less expensive than competitors. If you choose one of these companies and you haven’t arranged partial insurance from home, you’ll likely learn when you pick up your car that astronomical fees have been added to your bill to cover the second type of insurance. Almost always, this type of rental will end up costing more than one of the seemingly more expensive agencies. When comparing quotes, don’t be swayed by low costs. If a price seems too good to be true, it likely is.

Additional insurance is available for purchase. Most rental agencies sell extra insurance that can broaden coverage for damage caused to you and your rental car, as well as lower the deductible amount (typically to $0). Although beneficial, extra insurance is optional.

Supplemental fees (some mandatory and others optional) can increase your rental price. Confirm with your chosen agency whether a license plate fee, additional driver fee, roadside assistance fee, smoke damage fee, cleaning fee, airport fee, pickup fee, drop-off or delivery fee, late return fee, refueling fee, green or environmental fee, and sales tax have been or will be applied to your quote. Some supplemental fees apply per day and others are one-time charges.

Officers with radar guns hide along highway edges; locals typically alert one another of their presence with a quick flash of the high beams. Speed cameras, mainly around the Central Valley and Highlands, provide added vigilance. If you receive a ticket, you can pay the fine through your rental agency, which will handle the necessary paperwork. In the rental agreement fine print, some agencies require you to notify them immediately after you receive the ticket.

Depending on the roads you take, you may find yourself driving up and down rolling hills, around sharp corners, alongside steep cliffs, and through narrow passages across small bridges. Drive slowly and cautiously, no matter where you go, and obey all street signs. Commonly spotted along Costa Rican roads are the red-and-white octagon alto (stop), the red-and-white triangle ceda (yield to oncoming traffic), the yellow diamond despacio (slow your speed), the yellow diamond carretera en mal estado (highway in a bad state, proceed with caution), no hay paso (no access/do not enter), and no estacionar (no parking).

Accidents and Breakdowns

In the event of an accident, Costa Rican law dictates that you must not move your vehicle. It can be tempting to do so if you’re holding up traffic (now you can appreciate why road accidents in Costa Rica cause such awful delays), but the scene of the accident will be treated much like the scene of a crime, and evidence cannot be tampered with.

First and foremost, call 911 if you or anyone else has been injured. Next, phone your vehicle rental agency (many will provide a 24-hour emergency line) as well as the traffic accident report line of the Instituto Nacional de Seguros (National Insurance Institute, INS; tel. 1-800-800-8000). The 911 dispatcher should send an officer from the policía de tránsito (transit police; tel. 506/2523-3300) to investigate the scene and create a report, but if they don’t, call the transit police directly to ensure that step isn’t missed; not obtaining a police report can void your car insurance. If you have a camera or cell phone, take photos of the scene and all vehicles involved for your own records. Again, under no circumstances should you move your vehicle, even if it’s blocking traffic.

Taxi

Taxis serve all major cities and popular tourist areas in Costa Rica. They’re a good way to get around towns and cities but aren’t the most economical mode of transportation between destinations.

Most official taxis are red and display a yellow triangle with a black number on the door. Official airport taxis are the exception—they’re orange. Most taxi drivers do not speak English, but simply saying the name of your destination is sufficient. You can also ask, “¿Por favor, me puede llevar a . . . ?” (“Can you please take me to . . . ?”), filling in the name of your destination. Plan to pay the exact fare in colones to avoid losing money on a poor exchange rate. Many taxistas (taxi drivers) do not carry change. Unofficial taxi drivers, known as piratas, are everywhere, but unless you know and trust the driver (as locals often do), they’re best avoided. The going rate for an official taxi is 920-1,015 colones (approximately US$1.75-1.90) per kilometer. Official airport taxis cost slightly more: 1,070 colones (approximately US$2) per kilometer.

Like taxis, tuk-tuks (motorized rickshaws) can chauffeur you around town. They are unofficial but widely used in some beach towns, namely Puerto Viejo de Talamanca and Nosara. In some areas, they are the only option for getting around. They’re primarily used for in-town transportation and, while drivers determine the rates, they are usually slightly cheaper than taxis.

Organized Tour Transportation

For travelers looking to maximize their time and minimize the cost and hassle of arranging separate transportation services and tours, city-to-city transportation-inclusive tours are a helpful tool. This form of transportation, sometimes referred to as an Adventure Connection or post-tour onward transportation, allows you to move between destinations while participating in an activity along the way. How it works: You’ll get picked up in one city in the morning, participate in an adventure or nature tour (like white-water rafting) during the day, and get dropped off in a different city in the afternoon or evening. You choose the route and the tour from a list of available options, and the tour operator coordinates the rest. Lunch and sometimes breakfast are included.

Trailblazer tour operators that offer this service include Exploradores Outdoors (tel. 506/2222-6262 or 506/2750-2020; www.exploradoresoutdoors.com), which operates from San José and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, and Desafio Adventure Company (tel. 506/2479-0020; www.desafiocostarica.com), based in La Fortuna. The most common destinations selected as tour start or end locations are San José, Alajuela, Turrialba, La Fortuna, beach towns on the northern Pacific coast, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, Tortuguero, and beach towns in the southern Caribbean.

Crossing Flooded Roads and Rivers

My favorite way to explore Costa Rica is by car. I love the flexibility and the opportunities to explore the extraordinary. But there’s nothing worse than setting off on an exciting journey only to turn a corner and be confronted by a flooded road or a swollen river. You can’t go over it, you can’t go under it, and you can’t go around it. Unless you turn back, you must go through it. Before you hold your breath and plunge in, make sure you know the following information.

• Having a 4WD vehicle with high clearance is a must, not only to best avoid flooding the engine but also to ensure that water doesn’t enter through low side doors.

• Rental agencies do not cover damage to vehicles as a result of river crossings. Admitting that you crossed a river (even when no damage is caused) can jeopardize your insurance.

• A dirty river (marked by opaque brown water) can be a sign that the water came from a mountain. Rainfall at higher elevations increases the likelihood of flash floods at lower elevations. These can engulf rivers (and vehicles) at any moment. Although still dangerous, clear and still water is the least risky to enter. Don’t attempt to cross a river if it is moving swiftly; you could get swept away. If you misread river currents, flash floods can be deadly.

• Your best chance for success is to shadow another driver, ideally a local driver who knows the area well. Watch how other vehicles proceed and follow the same course. If no one else is around, look for entrance and exit tracks. Sometimes the best route proceeds through the water on an angle and doesn’t follow a straight and obvious path.

• It’s smart to prepare for the worst. Don’t attempt to cross a river if you don’t have access to a phone and a reliable signal to call for help in case of an emergency. In remote areas of the country where river crossings are most common, it can be hours (or longer) before you meet other people.

• Don’t forget to assess the area for dangerous wildlife. I wouldn’t want to stall a vehicle in the middle of a river with a crocodile on its bank, would you?

• Avoid crossing a river after dark when it’s next to impossible to assess water depth, condition, and current, not to mention roadblocks and other hazards. Stranding yourself anywhere at nighttime is never safe.

If and when you’re good to go (make sure your windows are down and your doors are unlocked), drive slowly but steadily through the water. Don’t stop halfway in and don’t gun the vehicle to create unnecessary and potentially engine-drowning waves. When you make it across, give yourself a pat on the back for journeying through the rainforest like a pro—but don’t make it a habit. Each crossing is different, and river conditions can change instantaneously. You can never fully predict what lies ahead.

Private Transfer Service

A great option for families, private transfer services can transport you and your travel companions between destinations in air-conditioned tourist vans typically built for 12 occupants, or 8 occupants with luggage. (Larger vehicles, which are great for groups, can transport up to 28 passengers.) Modern services include complimentary onboard Wi-Fi. Included in the cost is the driver’s service and your choice of pickup time. Some service providers apply a surcharge for 7pm-7am departures. Brief stops along the way, typically up to one hour, are generally permitted. Longer stops require extra payment to cover the driver’s time. If you’re headed to a remote location, this service type may be the only possible means of transport.

Shared Shuttle Service

Shared shuttle services, which operate vehicles similar to those used by private transfer services, are a form of public transportation. They’re also one of the most popular ways to get around Costa Rica. Van seats are reserved on an individual basis and are priced per person one-way; some service providers offer reduced rates (typically half price) to child travelers. Connecting the most popular tourist destinations around the country and providing door-to-door service with pickups and drop-offs at most well-known hotels, the services run according to set schedules and typically offer one or two departure times daily per route. A scheduled restroom stop is provided along the way.

Boat, Ferry, and Water Taxi

Alternatives to ground transportation are boat, ferry, and water taxi rides. Common crossings take place over the Golfo de Nicoya and Lago Arenal. Most ferries are large and can carry vehicles on board. Boats and water taxis are significantly smaller; some resemble safari boats and others look like speedboats. Each service runs according to set schedules and is priced per person one-way.

Golf Cart, ATV, and Bike

Golf carts (gas or electric) and ATVs (for 1-2 people) are available to rent, mainly in beach towns. Both require presentation of a valid driver’s license. You must be at least age 18 to drive a golf cart and at least 16 to drive an ATV. All vehicles should be plated and insured. Be forewarned: ATVs are full of pep and have been known to leave speedy drivers banged up and bruised, or worse. For your own safety and the safety of others, drive slowly.

You can rent a bike in most tourist towns. Destinations with rugged terrain and bike parks typically offer a selection of mountain bikes. Coastal communities have rows of beach cruisers. Some places have tandem bikes and electric road bikes.

Visas and Officialdom

Many countries, including the United States and Canada, detail entrance requirements to Costa Rica on their own government websites. However, the official source of Costa Rica’s entry regulations is the Dirección General de Migración y Extranjería (General Directorate of Migration and Immigration; www.migracion.go.cr). Up-to-date entry requirements are posted on the website.

DOCUMENTS AND REQUIREMENTS

Entry

Entry into Costa Rica requires presentation of a signed, legible, and unexpired passport with enough space to receive official stamps. Although you may not be asked to provide this documentation, legally you must come to Costa Rica prepared to provide proof of intent to exit before your entry stamp expires; entry stamps are valid for 30 or 180 days, depending on your country of origin. A prepurchased onward flight or bus ticket to another country qualifies as proof of your intent to depart Costa Rica, as does a cruise ship vacation confirmation if you plan to arrive and leave by boat. You must also be able to show that you have access to at least $100 for each 30-day stay to support you during your visit.

Your country of origin determines whether you need a visa to enter Costa Rica as well as whether your passport must be valid for a minimum of one day, three months, or six months. Passport holders of more than 60 countries, including the United States and Canada, are awarded the one-day validity period and do not need a visa. Passport holders from countries that must abide by the three-month validity period do not require a visa. Passport holders from countries that must have a passport valid for six months also require a visa to enter Costa Rica. See the website of La Dirección General de Migración y Extranjería (www.migracion.go.cr) for lists of countries in the various groups.

Minors traveling on their own to Costa Rica must have both a valid passport and written authorization to travel from their parents or legal guardians.

In addition to passport requirements, travelers from several African and South American countries must provide proof of yellow fever vaccination in order to enter Costa Rica. This requirement could also apply to other nationals who have recently traveled to the flagged countries. A list of the flagged countries can be obtained from the World Health Organization’s website (www.who.int) or by calling La Dirección General de Migración y Extranjería (tel. 506/2299-8100). According to some foreign health organizations, vaccinations that protect against hepatitis A, hepatitis B, typhoid, and rabies as well as antimalaria medications are suggested but not mandatory. Make sure your routine vaccinations are up to date.

Departure

In order to leave Costa Rica by air, you must pay the departure tax ($29 pp). Most airlines incorporate the cost of the tax into their ticket prices. Double-check your airfare’s fine print—the charge is usually noted in the price breakdown—to determine if the tax has already been paid. If not, you’ll need to pay it at the airport’s departure tax desk prior to approaching the airline counter. Some hotels and vehicle rental agencies can pay the tax for you in advance if you’d prefer to save the time and hassle the day you fly.

FOREIGN EMBASSIES

Most foreign embassies are in San José. The U.S. Embassy (just north of Road 104, 1.5 km/0.9 mi northwest of the Parque Metropolitano La Sabana; tel. 506/2519-2000; https://cr.usembassy.gov; 8am-4:30pm Mon.-Fri.), the Canadian Embassy (just east of Road 177, on the south side of Parque Metropolitano La Sabana; tel. 506/2242-4400; www.canadainternational.gc.ca/costa_rica [URL inactive]; 7:30am-4pm Mon.-Thurs., 7:30am-1pm Fri.), and the British Embassy (corner of Paseo Colón and Calle 38; tel. 506/2258-2025; www.gov.uk/world/organisations/british-embassy-in-costa-rica; 8am-4pm Mon.-Thurs., 8am-1pm Fri.) are all on the west side of the city.

Recreation

Costa Rica is an adventure travel destination that doubles as a prime place to explore nature. According to a poll (2017-2019) carried out by the Instituto Costarricense de Turismo (Costa Rican Institute of Tourism, ICT), 23 of the top 25 experiences enjoyed by international visitors are recreational activities. This finding speaks volumes. Getting out and experiencing Costa Rica is a large part of what traveling here is all about.

The activities described in this guide are some of Costa Rica’s most prominent. Consider participating in at least two or three—ideally as many as your itinerary, budget, and energy level permit—to understand for yourself why Costa Rica is considered an adventure destination. Most activities require reservations.

Your safety is never fully guaranteed. Accidents can and do happen, sometimes because of a negligent tour operator and other times due to unforeseen events. Select your preferred tour operators carefully; at minimum, stick to those that come recommended in this guide or by other trusted sources. Many won’t allow people with health conditions, individuals who are recovering from an operation, or pregnant women to participate in activities out of concern for participants’ well-being.

ZIP-LINING

A favorite recreational activity of many travelers is zip-lining. After being secured in a harness and connected to a pulley with carabiners, you’ll be thrust through the forest or skim the top of it while you glide (or “zip”) across thick cables (most routes have 7-13 cables). While these tours are offered all around Costa Rica, most take place in lush, verdant areas where the scenery is most impressive. The best ones are in La Fortuna and Monteverde.

Nearly all zip-line tour operators enforce a minimum age requirement; typically, children must be at least 3-8 years old. A few also enforce maximum weight limits, or minimum and maximum waist sizes to ensure harnesses fit properly. Contact the operator for details, as limits depend on the particular zip line’s materials and equipment.

Zip-lining activities are also called canopy tours in Costa Rica. Technically, this term can apply to any experience that takes place around the treetop canopy, such as hanging bridge tours, but as a rule, if an experience is advertised as a canopy tour, it’s a zip-line tour.

Most commonly, zip-lining tours require participants to brake manually, with their hands, which requires you to wear a thick glove and place gentle pressure on the cable to slow yourself down. The process sounds more difficult than it is, but if you’re concerned about it, go with a tour operator that uses a handlebar system. With this option, you grasp the handlebars and jostle them back and forth to reduce your speed. If you have a fear of heights, skip zip-lining altogether; the experience requires you to stand atop high platforms and soar above the forest floor. In most cases, once you begin the circuit, there’s no turning back.

For added thrill, some zip-line tours offer Superman cables, hands-free cables you ride while lying on your stomach in a sling, which deliver the feeling of flying through the air like Superman. Other zip-line tours provide freefall experiences, sometimes called Tarzan swings, where you jump from a high platform and safely fall or “swing” through the forest before gently landing on the ground. Superman cables and Tarzan swings are typically sold as optional canopy tour add-ons; however, some tour operators automatically include the cost of one or both experiences in their zip-line tour rates.

Although zip-line tours take place around the forest, they’re hardly wildlife-spotting excursions. While you may get lucky and see birds, butterflies, insects, frogs, monkeys, and maybe even sloths or monkeys along the way, it’s best not to expect any sightings to avoid disappointment.

WHITE-WATER RAFTING

White-water rafting tours are one of the most exciting adventures you can have in Costa Rica. They’re also loved for the scenery they showcase, especially the tall walls of rainforest you’ll raft through if you go out on Río Pacuare. The most popular rivers for rafting are in the Caribbean, central Pacific, and Guanacaste regions, but rafting tour operators are spread around the country and offer tours with round-trip transportation to several rivers from most other regions. Most companies enforce a minimum age requirement that varies by river according to the class of the rapids. On average, tours on Class III-IV rivers (the most common for white-water rafting in Costa Rica) require participants to be at least age 12. Class II-III rivers, typically rafted only by families with young children, tend to allow kids as young as 6 to participate.

No previous experience is necessary to participate in white-water rafting tours; however, you should be in good physical condition, be able operate a paddle, feel comfortable around water, and have a thirst for thrills. Don’t forget to smile as you maneuver each rapid. Most rafting-tour outfitters employ photographers and sell photos at the end of the trip as souvenirs.

The chance of getting sunburned can be high, and the results severe, given the many hours spent on the water. Make sure you apply a waterproof variety of high-SPF sunscreen generously and frequently throughout the day. Most rafts have a waterproof barrel for storage, and many tour guides carry dry bags as well. Any medication you may need during the day can be stored in the raft. Tour outfitters also provide secure storage for other items that you won’t need in the raft, such as a set of dry clothes to change into, a towel, and money.

HOT SPRINGS

Offering supreme relaxation are the country’s several hot spring attractions, located primarily around the La Fortuna and Rincón de la Vieja areas. Hot spring visits, where you soak in rejuvenating warm rivers and pools, are one of the best rewards you can give yourself, not to mention a great way to recover from physically demanding, adventure-filled days. Some attractions are small and informal, with a limited number of pools. Others occupy resort properties and are rich with beautiful views, waterfalls, and swim-up bars.

Visitor passes may be purchased for a block of time or a full day, depending on the property. Purchase passes well in advance if you plan to travel during the high season, as spaces sell out. Most sites offer complimentary towels (with a deposit) and the option to rent a locker. Outside food and drinks are not permitted, but most attractions have at least one restaurant on-site. Some visitor passes include lunch or dinner in their rates.

While some properties have designated adults-only areas, children are welcome at most hot springs. A few properties cater to families, offering waterslides, water activity parks, and on-site wildlife exhibits. All properties require that parents and guardians keep a close watch over children in their care while at the hot springs.

BEACHES

Over 70 percent of visitors to Costa Rica spend time at a beach during their stay. If you’re part of the majority, the Programa Bandera Azul Ecológica (Ecological Blue Flag Program), run by the Instituto Costarricense de Turismo (Costa Rican Institute of Tourism, ICT; www.ict.go.cr), can help you find a clean beach to stretch out on. Annually, the program awards blue flag accreditation to beaches that meet the institute’s high ecological standards, most of which target cleanliness and water quality. Other factors considered are education efforts (such as warning signs posted at beaches) and security. Each beach in Costa Rica can earn up to five stars under the program, plus a slew of unrated colored stars that recognize additional ecological actions.

When the program began in 1996, there were 10 beaches recognized as blue flag recipients. In 2022, the honor was bestowed on 136 beaches, around 40 of which appear in this guide, across all five of Costa Rica’s coastal regions: Guanacaste and the northern Pacific, the Nicoya Peninsula, the central Pacific, the Osa Peninsula, and the Caribbean coast. Blue flag beaches receive an actual blue flag, which displays the number of stars earned and the year of accreditation, but it isn’t always displayed publicly at the beach. Signs that read Playa Galardonada are a more common sight on blue flag beaches. Often misunderstood as identifying the name of the beach on which it appears, the phrase translates to “Award-Winning Beach” in English.

SURFING, SNORKELING, SCUBA DIVING, AND FREE DIVING

Scheduling water sports during your trip depends greatly on ocean conditions. Always have your chosen water sports provider confirm the latest conditions to avoid snorkeling or diving when the water visibility is poor, or surfing when waves are lackluster.

The long Pacific coast and part of the southern Caribbean coast provide loads of breaks for surfers of all skill levels. Lessons and surfboard rentals are offered in abundance if you want them; be prepared to surrender your identification, or provide a copy of it, to the surf shop if you rent a board. Surf trips to popular breaks are available to advanced-level riders. Beware of riptides, rip currents, and undertows that make many coastal areas downright dangerous.

Scuba diving requires a valid certification through PADI (the Professional Association of Diving Instructors). If you don’t obtain one before you travel, you can acquire either a Discover Scuba Diving or PADI Scuba Diver certificate through most dive shops in beach communities. Discover Scuba Diving is a one-day introductory course; PADI Scuba Diver is a two-day course, after which you’ll receive a basic-level PADI license. Both courses have two open-water components that are carried out as diving tours. On these tours, you’ll stay within 12 m (39 ft) of the ocean’s surface—the maximum depth permitted by PADI at the beginner levels. Several dive sites visited on regular non-course-based diving tours in Costa Rica are deeper than 12 m (39 ft), so you may need to have additional courses under your belt to dive at your preferred spots. Also offered are courses in free diving, if you’re interested in trying out the burgeoning sport. To help minimize the risk of decompression sickness, international diving organizations recommend divers wait 12-48 hours prior to flying, so keep this timeframe in mind when scheduling your dives.

If your dream is to dive at Parque Nacional Isla del Coco—the world-renowned dive spot 550 km (340 mi) off Costa Rica’s central Pacific coast—you’ll need to sign up months in advance for a 10-day ship excursion and have roughly $5,400-6,800 to shell out for the experience.

If you’re a diver with an interest in a particular species of marinelife or a passion for ocean conservation, you’ll be pleased to know that some Costa Rica dive shops offer one- or two-day specialty courses designed by the internationally recognized nonprofit PADI AWARE Foundation. Specialties include diving with manta rays, sharks, sea turtles, or fish, as well as the Dive Against Debris course, which teaches ways to tackle plastic waste in the ocean.

SEA TURTLE NESTING TOURS

Sea turtle nesting is known as arribadas (arrivals) in Costa Rica. Although the term refers to the act of adult sea turtles coming ashore to lay their eggs, it’s sometimes used informally—and incorrectly—by tour operators, agencies, and guides to address all kinds of turtle behavior, including egg hatching.

Several varieties of sea turtles are known to nest on many of the beaches in Costa Rica. You’ll have the best luck witnessing an arribada by visiting Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional May-December or Parque Nacional Tortuguero July-October. Visits to most sites during off-season periods produce few sightings. Gatherings within the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional, especially August-December, are particularly impressive because adult sea turtles storm the beach in massive groups.

Turtle nesting tours aren’t for the impatient. They involve very little activity, apart from walking and waiting on a beach—sometimes for several hours—for one or more turtles to arrive. In many cases, the experience takes place in the late evening, and in almost all cases, it is guided by a government-approved tour guide. Dark clothing is required, and the use of flash photography and lights (beyond a flashlight used by the guide) is not permitted.

HIKING

Nature trails in government-regulated or private lands known as parques nacionales (national parks), reservas biológicas (biological reserves), or refugios (refuges) exist in all regions of Costa Rica. Self-guided exploration is permitted at most, but it’s still a good idea to visit these places with a guide. There is a lot to gain from having a guide at your side, the most obvious benefit being the guide’s wealth of knowledge. Knowing where to walk to avoid stepping on a snake, which trees to look at to see birds and sloths, which insect species produce the sounds you hear, why certain root systems look the way they do, and countless other lessons are what turn ordinary walks into educational journeys and extraordinary wildlife-spotting opportunities. In some areas of the country—generally remote regions—hiring a guide is strongly advised for the navigational support and extra security they provide. Reservations are almost always required for guided night hikes and guided bird-watching outings that take place early in the morning.

Hiking conditions and experiences vary immensely due to Costa Rica’s diverse terrain, elevation, weather, and ecosystems. Some hikes are quick walks along paved and sometimes wheelchair-accessible paths. Others are incredibly challenging multiday climbs through narrow clearings in the forest. You can feel the coolness of clouds on your cheeks in several areas; in others, you may need to wipe sweat from your brow due to the humidity. Familiarize yourself with trail lengths and levels of difficulty before setting out, to avoid hiking a route that is either too physically intense or not stimulating enough.

Advance Reservations

Recent years have seen the majority of Costa Rica’s most-visited national parks adopt the online booking system operated by the Sistema Nacional de Áreas de Conservación (National System of Conservation Areas, SINAC; www.sinac.go.cr), a system that allows visitors to prepurchase park entrance tickets virtually. Although you can still arrive at most national parks without a reservation, entrance isn’t permitted without a ticket, and you’ll be required to buy one on the spot through the online booking system using a mobile device (in-person purchases are generally not permitted). Because Wi-Fi signal isn’t guaranteed at all parks, and to ensure you obtain a ticket before the park sells out of them, it’s best to make reservations and purchase tickets in advance, whenever permitted.

Of the national parks covered in this guide, the following accept reservations and ticket purchases online through SINAC:

• Parque Nacional Volcán Poás

• Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú

• Parque Nacional Chirripó

• Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio

• Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja

• Parque Nacional Carara

• Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

• Parque Nacional Tortuguero

Visits to Parque Nacional Santa Rosa can also be arranged in advance online, but only through the Área de Conservación Guanacaste (Guanacaste Conservation Area; www.acguanacaste.ac.cr), the organization that manages that particular park. Bookings for Parque Nacional Corcovado are best handled through your chosen Corcovado tour provider. There is no option to reserve a visit or prepurchase a ticket to Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal, Parque Nacional Palo Verde, Parque Nacional Marino Ballena, or Parque Nacional Cahuita; pay once you arrive at any of these parks.

Regardless of which park(s) you visit, don’t forget to bring photo identification when you go; park attendants may ask to see it to verify your ticket.

HANGING BRIDGES

There are plenty of ways to explore nature in Costa Rica; one of them is by touring a series of hanging bridges. Essentially a calm and quiet nature hike with uphill and downhill sections, this experience allows you to walk through the forest and cross a series of bridges along the way. The best place for these is in La Fortuna or Monteverde. Most hanging bridge attractions offer a combination of stationary bridges and suspension bridges, the latter typically being the highest and the longest. There’s a rush that comes with standing in the middle of a suspension bridge, completely surrounded by the sights and sounds of the rainforest or the cloud forest. Amid the leafy treetop canopy, you’ll have decent bird-watching and wildlife-spotting opportunities. Hanging bridge attractions can be explored with or without a tour guide. Most hanging bridge attractions are family-friendly and don’t have minimum age limits.

Food

TYPICAL DISHES

Costa Ricans consume fruit, meat, rice, and beans multiple times daily in a variety of forms. Literally meaning “spotted rooster” in English, gallo pinto (a traditional rice and bean blend) is served each morning. In addition to gallo pinto, a typical Costa Rican desayuno (breakfast) includes fresh fruit, a tortilla with a slice of cheese, or made-to-order huevos (eggs). Eggs can be requested fritos (fried), picados or revueltos (both terms mean scrambled), tiernos (over easy), or sometimes duros (hard boiled). Café (coffee), té (tea), agua (water), and jugo (juice) are commonly served drinks.

Casado (a traditional dish that marries servings of rice and beans on a plate, accompanied by a variety of side dishes) is consumed at almuerzo (lunch) or cena (dinner). Queso frito (fried cheese) and plátano frito (fried plantain, also called plátano maduro) commonly accompany the meal, as does a mix of vegetables, typically including palmito (heart of palm). Casados and other main dishes are normally listed on menus as entradas or platos fuertes; snacks are called antojitos. Bocas (Costa Rica’s take on Spanish tapas) commonly include gallos (tortillas topped with cheese, egg, or meat). Tres leches (a sweet cake soaked with three kinds of milk) and flan de coco (coconut flan) are delectable, must-try postres (desserts).

Costa Rican food in general is flavorful but lightly seasoned. Spices are passed over for herbs, and leafy dark-green cilantro adds a flavorful zip to most dishes. Although some preparations are bland on their own, vinaigrettes, oils, and homemade salsas like pico de gallo (diced tomato, pepper, onion, and pineapple mixed with cilantro and lemon juice) enhance the flavors of most foods. Many tables are topped with a bottle of Salsa Lizano, the preferred condiment of most Costa Ricans. Adding a few drops of the potent liquid to your meal will give it a tangy, peppery punch.

During holidays or special events, tamales, chicharrones (fried pork rinds), and churros appear on many Costa Rican tables. Sold from carts regularly stationed at beaches and in public parks are ceviche (raw seafood or fish marinated in citrus) and copos (shaved ice desserts topped with syrup and condensed milk). On the Caribbean coast, Afro-descendant specialties take center stage, including rondón (a fish and vegetable coconut-milk soup flavored with Caribbean spices), patís (savory turnovers often stuffed with meat, pineapple, or plantain), pan bon (a dark sweet bread), and coconut rice and beans.

DIETARY RESTRICTIONS

Over the last decade, Costa Rican cooking has shifted toward worldwide culinary trends. Most chefs and waitstaff are conscious of gluten-free diets, as well as what vegetarians and vegans will and won’t eat. Organic fruit, vegetable, and coffee plantations dot the country, making for fabulous farm-to-table meals at health-conscious restaurants and accommodations.

Being a vegetarian in Costa Rica isn’t difficult. Some dishes, like arroz con vegetales (rice with vegetables), are naturally vegetarian, and others can be made so simply by asking for the serving without meat or fish. Since Costa Rica’s bean-based diet is packed with protein, you shouldn’t need to supplement your meals. If you’re a pescatarian, you’ll find yourself surrounded by variety, as many menus include meat and fish plates equally. Not surprisingly, the best fish and seafood in the country are served along the coasts.

Vegans may struggle to find meal options at most run-of-the-mill restaurants. But every day it seems a new little café, diner, or high-end restaurant has popped up with the purpose of catering to vegans. Seek out these specialty eateries and you’ll find a fantastic repertoire of creative, innovative, and delicious meals worth eating more than once.

If you avoid gluten, it is best to have restaurant waitstaff confirm which menu items contain it. Recipes vary across establishments, so treating meals on a case-by-case basis is the smartest approach. Gluten-free cooking is one of the more recent trends to hit Costa Rica, and not all restaurants have caught up with suitable menu options. A select few have opted to be 100 percent gluten-free.

DRINKS

On humid days, you can quench your thirst with nonalcoholic batidos (smoothies) made to order with fresh tropical fruits including banano (banana), piña (pineapple), mora (blackberry), mango, and papaya. The drinks can be made with milk or water. If you’re up for something different, try the local delicacy cas (guava), or try a glass of agua de tamarindo (juice produced from tamarind pulp). Pipa fría (cold coconut water) is typically consumed directly from the coconut and is sold all over Costa Rica, generally on beaches, in markets, and at roadside stands. Locally produced alcoholic drinks include Imperial and Pilsen beer, Ron Centenario rum, and Cacique guaro (sugarcane liquor).

By a landslide, café (coffee)—an official national symbol since 2020—wins as the most beloved drink in the nation. It’s consumed morning, noon, and night. Some restaurants and attractions like coffee plantations and roasteries prepare the beverage traditionally and tableside in a chorreador (a wood device equipped with a cloth filter used to brew coffee).

RESTAURANTS

Sodas

Inexpensive sodas (traditional Costa Rican family restaurants) are much more than restaurants; they’re authentic establishments, popular gathering places, and sources of the best Costa Rican cuisine. Often found in city centers or markets frequented by locals, these informal establishments, which are sometimes open-air structures filled with picnic tables, are bursting with unassuming character.

Menus feature Costa Rican staples, usually with a few pasta or sandwich options thrown in. Several offer small buffet bars—usually in the back, near the kitchen—where you can try an assortment of traditional foods. The best spots will top off your visit with a small complimentary bowl of arroz con leche (rice pudding). With hundreds of sodas all over Costa Rica (even small towns typically have more than one), you can dine at many throughout your trip if you’re looking to save money, indulge in the local cuisine, and feel what it’s like to live like a Tico.

Tourist-Geared

If you grow tired of eating at sodas, there’s no shortage of tourism-oriented restaurants that will happily accept your business. Choices include all kinds of establishments, from large steak houses to cozy pizzerias to tiny cafés. Cuisines from all over the world are represented, with a slant toward American, Argentinean, Italian, French, and Chinese influences. There are also many Costa Rican restaurants (more formal than sodas) that serve comida típica (typical food) with fancy presentations and above-average service. Some proudly showcase the nation’s culture through employee uniforms that copy traditional dress, live music, and dance performances.

Fine Dining

Fine dining isn’t the norm in Costa Rica, but several fantastic options exist. The Central Valley and Highlands offer the greatest concentration and cater to capital city businesspeople. Spread out around the country are some others, many of which are at resort-quality hotels but are open to nonguests. (Some restaurants at all-inclusive resorts serve hotel guests only.) Fine dining in Costa Rica translates to a nice restaurant with a warm or romantic ambience, top-notch service, and enjoyable food and drinks—and not much else. You can leave your black-tie attire at home as there’s little use for it here.

Accommodations

Costa Rica offers an immense selection of lodging types. These are difficult to define due to the fluid use of terminology across the industry. As you familiarize yourself with the options, keep in mind that similar hotels may describe themselves in completely different ways. Likewise, two places that couldn’t be more different from each other may label themselves as the same kind of establishment—for example, a resort. Use the categories here as a guide, but also recognize that many places don’t fall neatly into one.

Lodging rates are determined by many factors, including reputation, location, size, style, room amenities, on-site facilities, travel season, and inclusions (such as meals). Prices vary significantly within each category. Hostels, the least expensive lodging option, offer beds in shared rooms as low as $15 pp, but I’ve seen private rooms in a hostel go for more than $150. A room at a hotel might cost $50 in a rural area during low season but $200 at a popular destination during high season. Adding to the confusion, some resorts cost less than some rustic lodges. Don’t make presumptions about cost or quality based on the type of accommodation.

When selecting your lodging, prioritize location. Accommodations can be in downtown areas where noise may be an issue; on the outskirts of town and a taxi ride, walk, or drive to dining options; down a poorly maintained road; in sketchy areas you may prefer to avoid; or even in areas only accessible by small plane or boat. They may also fall outside common tour excursion pickup zones, which means you’ll end up paying surcharges to tour operators for pickups and drop-offs every time you wish to participate in a guided activity. Find accommodations with desirable locations first, according to your interests, needs, and comfort level, before narrowing down the choices according to secondary factors like price, style, and ambience.

Be aware that the sewage lines below some accommodations in the country don’t process toilet paper well. Most places will ask that you deposit paper into waste bins.

Cama (bed) sizes may be written in English, Spanish, or a combination of the two languages, as is the case with “cama king” and “cama queen.” A double bed or a full-size bed is called either a “cama doble” or a “cama matrimonial.” A pair of twin beds or single-size beds is called “dos camas individuales.”

Sometimes, rooms are named for their capacity. You may see rooms advertised as the following types: habitación individual or habitación sencilla (room for 1 person), habitación doble (room for 2 people), habitación triple (room for 3 people), habitación cuádruple (room for 4 people), and habitación familiar (room for 4 or more people).

ECO-FRIENDLY ACCOMMODATIONS

Costa Rica is known around the world as an ecotourism destination. Sustainable hospitality contributes largely to this reputation; accommodations that help minimize, if not offset, travel footprints attract and delight eco-minded visitors. Tons of accommodations—from hostels to resorts—claim to be eco-friendly, and some go as far as incorporating “eco” into their name, but not all are committed to ecological practices. Usage of the term “eco-friendly” (and others that imply sustainability) is unregulated in Costa Rica, so if staying at a sustainable lodging is important to you, you’ll need to dig a little deeper to find one that’s truly green.

Eco-Friendly Places to Stay

Costa Rica is a top ecotourism destination. Ambitious plans to become carbon neutral, strong leadership in environmental policy, and unwavering commitment to eco-conscious practices make the nation a model of sustainable development around the world.

Accommodations can be particularly successful in this effort. Efficient land and electricity use, smart waste management, biodegradable product use, the acquisition of local resources, and other sustainable actions are within the control of property owners. Stay somewhere that pursues sustainable hospitality and you’ll not only reduce your own travel footprint, you’ll also further Costa Rica’s leading example of how tourism and environmental stewardship can harmoniously coexist.

Ranging from inexpensive hotels to all-inclusive resorts, low-impact places to stay are everywhere in Costa Rica. Many of my favorites are accessed from some of Costa Rica’s most popular destinations.

• Near La Fortuna, Rancho Margot is a largely self-sufficient ranch where you can immerse yourself in sustainable living and participate in hands-on farming activities (click here).

• At Monteverde, you can learn about permaculture and see it in action at Valle Escondido Nature Reserve, Hotel, & Farm, an affordable hotel set in a cloud forest preserve (click here).

• Ecotourism pioneer the Si Como No Resort oversees numerous green-oriented projects in the Manuel Antonio vicinity (click here).

• Guests of the award-winning Lapa Ríos, a small-scale all-inclusive eco-resort on the Osa Peninsula, aid in funding local green initiatives through the resort’s conservation fee (click here).

• From San José, La Fortuna, Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, and other destinations, you can take a white-water rafting tour on Río Pacuare to the Pacuare Lodge, a solar- and water-powered riverside rainforest lodge that exemplifies sustainable luxury (click here).

While Costa Rica’s reputation as an ecotourism destination grows, so do cases of greenwashing. Don’t assume a lodging is green simply because “eco” appears in the name or description; the unregulated term is meaningless unless it’s cited by a property that’s actively working to be sustainable. If supporting sustainable hospitality is important to you, stick to hotels and resorts that detail substantial eco-conscious practices and initiatives on their website with photos or testimonials to support their claims.

One tool that can assist you with this task is Costa Rica’s Certificación para la Sostenibilidad Turística (Certification of Sustainable Tourism, CST; www.turismo-sostenible.co.cr), which can be awarded to accommodations and other tourism businesses. Developed by the Instituto Costarricense de Turismo (Costa Rican Institute of Tourism, ICT; www.ict.go.cr), the certification rates accommodations according to their sustainability model; those that meet the institute’s high standards are listed on the ICT website. All of the properties that appear on the website have taken significant steps toward sustainability; those that have earned the Élite accreditation are among the most eco-friendly accommodations in the country.

The certification program is a good starting point for finding green businesses in Costa Rica, but don’t dismiss a lodging (or other business) if it doesn’t have the CST. Meeting the program’s high standards takes money that some properties may not have to spare. Fortunately, there are plenty of high-impact, low-cost measures that non-CST-recognized accommodations can—and do—take to practice sustainability, from encouraging guests to recycle and reduce electricity use to using biodegradable and locally sourced products. Look to the accommodation’s website and to reviews from recent guests to learn more. Other demonstrations of sustainability manifest as activities that are available to overnight guests. Some self-sufficient properties have gardens and farms where you can participate in hands-on activities. Several accommodations sit on nature preserves or refuges that have trails you can explore. Others invite you to take an educational class, plant a tree, or go off the grid to better the environment and your awareness of it. All around the country, these and other eco-conscious efforts are made by CST-recognized and non-CST-recognized accommodations alike.

Of my five preferred eco-friendly places to stay in Costa Rica—Rancho Margot near La Fortuna, Valle Escondido Nature Reserve, Hotel, & Farm at Monteverde, the Si Como No Resort in Manuel Antonio, Lapa Ríos on the Osa Peninsula, and the Pacuare Lodge in the Caribbean region—two are CST-recognized and three are not (at the time of writing). Use the CST as a starting point or a guide, but keep in mind that there are plenty of sustainable properties worth your consideration that aren’t part of the program.

HOSTELS

Hostels in Costa Rica are not unlike hostels elsewhere in the world. Each typically offers a few dormitories with capacity of 4-16, and many provide women-only rooms. Most are outfitted with bunk beds, but a few offer single beds. Baths are typically compartido (shared), as are kitchens and common areas.

Although nearly all hostels cater to young travelers, the ambience in hostels varies significantly. Some have game rooms, TV lounges, swimming pools, and a vibrant social atmosphere, while others have libraries or reading nooks and a calmer vibe. Almost all offer a handful of private rooms (sleep 1-4) with private baths.

HOTELS

Hotels range from small and informal buildings to modern high-rises, some with five individually styled rooms and others with 100 nearly identical suites. Many resemble one- or two-story motels. Most others comprise multiple structures separated from one another by paved paths or nature trails. Sometimes these structures are called cabinas or cabañas (both mean cabins), bungalows, villas, or casitas (little houses). The five terms are used interchangeably. All but a few hotels in Costa Rica provide rooms with baños privados (private baths).

BED-AND-BREAKFASTS

Many B&Bs in Costa Rica are no different than hotels. Several strive to provide guests with the quintessential homey, service-oriented experience that differentiates B&Bs from other accommodations elsewhere in the world, but others simply use the name. If you plan to stay at a B&B, research the place thoroughly to determine the type of experience you’ll have.

RANCHES AND LODGES

If you plan to stay at a ranch or lodge, expect accommodations that are rustic in design and decor. Although hotels built as cabinas, cabañas, bungalows, villas, and casitas often provide a similar look and feel, ranches and lodges are almost always bucolic. Sometimes they’re set on farms and offer a slew of rural activities from horseback riding to cow milking. It’s worth noting, however, that these kinds of experiences aren’t limited to ranches and lodges; many hotels and resorts (as well as theme parks and small-scale attractions) operate similar activities.

RESORTS

Where Costa Rican accommodations really play it loose is with the term “resort.” In most cases, the word refers to a high-quality lodging, but I’ve come across several that are mid-range hotels at best. Always research resort options before you select one, and don’t rule out small properties; sometimes they’re the most intimate and provide the best service.

Most resorts are not all-inclusive, meaning that three daily meals and beverages are not automatically included. However, several all-inclusive resorts do exist, especially in Guanacaste (which is home to many of the country’s most exclusive accommodations) and in the Osa Peninsula (where remoteness and a lack of dining establishments require meals to be provided).

An eco-resort, an unregulated title some accommodations bestow upon themselves, is a lodging that engages in environmentally friendly practices. Not necessarily high-quality, eco-resorts may be small family-run hotels, woodsy lodges, or high-end contemporary resorts.

VACATION HOME RENTALS

With the rise of companies like Airbnb (www.airbnb.com), VRBO (www.vrbo.com), and FlipKey (www.flipkey.com), it has never been easier to find a house to crash at throughout your Costa Rica travels. But the option isn’t always safe, especially if you plan to travel alone or to remote areas. If you like the idea of having a large space to spread out in and an opportunity to cook your own meals, you’ll find many hotels offer both. Apartotels, hotels outfitted with apartment-style rooms, may be exactly what you’re looking for.

HOMESTAYS

Homestays are typically coordinated in conjunction with volunteer stints. Some school and research groups use them as well. Arrangements are usually handled by program administrators. It is uncommon for foreigners to stay with Costa Rican families otherwise, unless a personal connection exists between the groups.

Conduct and Customs

Many Costa Ricans value humility; off-putting behavior typically receives a wry expression of “¡Qué humilde!” (“How humble!”). Costa Rican culture also prioritizes relationships with family and friends over money. This means that rude behavior, typically with respect to showing off money, isn’t well received. Bartering for lower prices is viewed as tacky, as is waving around cash or acting entitled.

SALUTATIONS AND ETIQUETTE

The most common greeting in Costa Rica is “Hola” (“Hello”), followed by either “Buenos días” (“Good morning”), “Buenas tardes” (“Good afternoon”), “Buenas noches” (“Good evening”), or “¿Cómo está?” (“How are you?”). Shaking hands takes place in the workplace. Kissing on one cheek is common among family members and close friends. Use of either is rare within tourism settings.

Costa Rican Celebrations

• January 1: Año Nuevo (New Year’s Day, nationwide)

• February/March: Mardi Gras (Playa Flamingo); date corresponds with the start of Lent

• March/April: Semana Santa (Holy Week, nationwide); the week leading up to Easter

• April 11: Día de Juan Santamaría (Juan Santamaría Day, nationwide)

• May 1: Día Internacional del Trabajo (International Labor Day, nationwide)

• Mid-July: Fiesta de la Virgen del Mar (Virgin of the Sea Festival, Playas del Coco, Puntarenas, and a few other coastal towns) and Festival Internacional de Calypso (International Calypso Festival, Cahuita)

• July 25: Anexión de Guanacaste (Annexation of Guanacaste, nationwide but mainly in Guanacaste)

• August 2: Día de la Virgen de los Ángeles (Virgin of the Angels Day, nationwide but mainly in Cartago)

• August 15: Día de la Madre (Mother’s Day, nationwide)

• August 31: Día de la Persona Negra y la Cultura Afrocostarricense (Day of the Black Person and Afro-Costa Rican Culture, nationwide but mainly in Puerto Viejo de Talamanca)

• September: Festival de Ballenas y Delfines (Whale and Dolphin Festival, Uvita)

• September 15: Día de la Independencia (Independence Day, nationwide)

• October 12: Día de las Culturas (Culture Day, nationwide)

• Mid-October: Carnaval del Caribe (Caribbean Carnival, nationwide but mainly on the Caribbean coast)

• December 1: Día de la Abolición del Ejército (Army Abolition Day, nationwide)

• Mid-December: Festival de la Luz (Festival of Light, San José)

• December 25: Navidad (Christmas, nationwide)

• Late December: Fiestas de Zapote (Zapote Festivals, San José)

Costa Ricans practice most of the same rules of etiquette that the majority of North Americans are accustomed to. Act politely, don’t dress provocatively around religious centers and during homestays, and give up your seat on the bus if you see an elderly person or a parent with a child standing in the aisle.

PUNCTUALITY

Within the tourism industry (which is partially driven by expat business owners), operations from guided tours to transportation services run like clockwork on set schedules. Outside the realm of tourism, Costa Rica’s laid-back pura vida attitude contributes to a general lack of urgency across personal and business affairs. Tico time, a phrase describing the slow pace at which things tend to progress, is a reality in Costa Rica. Be patient if service is slow.

HOLIDAYS, FESTIVALS, AND EVENTS

Costa Ricans rarely miss an opportunity to gather with family and friends. Holidays are always celebrated, and cultural events draw crowds of locals. Fiestas cívicas (civic festivals), which take place in towns throughout Costa Rica, usually during the summer, are an excuse to party, indulge in fair food, and catch live performances.

The country also hosts a ton of great festivals and events. Two to consider planning your trip around include the Ocaso Underground Music Festival (www.ocasofestival.com) in Tamarindo and the Envision Festival (www.envisionfestival.com) in Uvita. Plenty of sporting events add to the list, including international fútbol games held at San José’s Estadio Nacional de Costa Rica (National Stadium of Costa Rica). Schedules and sometimes locations change from year to year; see event websites for details.

Health and Safety

HEALTH

Potential health hazards are ubiquitous in Costa Rica, but most won’t cause a problem if you pay attention and take normal precautions. Pack a basic first-aid kit so you can treat minor cuts, scrapes, burns, stings, bites, and sprains. Cleanse and disinfect your hands often, especially after visiting areas where wildlife is present. If you fall ill or suffer a major injury (severe bleeding, bruising, vomiting, or having a high fever are clear indicators), seek medical attention immediately.

In most developed areas of the country where tourism is present (except for the Caribbean), tap water is considered safe to drink and is consumed by locals. Bottled water is preferred by most travelers and is widely available for purchase at grocery stores and restaurants.

Diseases and Common Ailments

Dengue, chikungunya, malaria, and the Zika virus are the most pressing health concerns for visitors. However, cases of each are rare. Travelers are more likely to encounter episodes of traveler’s diarrhea, which can be treated with over-the-counter medications or by letting it run its course. Most of the time, the upset is caused by a sudden change of diet; eating or drinking lots of fresh tropical fruit can bring it on too. Don’t let yourself get dehydrated; drink water regularly.

Bites, Stings, and Sun Exposure

There’s no shortage of bugs, bees, spiders, scorpions, and snakes in the forests, and there’s little you can do after you’ve been bitten or stung by one—apart from waiting out the itch or burn or seeking medical care. Travel proactively. Use waterproof sunscreen and a strong insect repellent. Some people like products with DEET; others prefer less harsh products, like plant-based repellents with eucalyptus oil as the active ingredient. Regardless of which product you purchase, buy it in a spray bottle (not an aerosol) so it’s suited for air travel, and use it liberally throughout your trip.

Use mosquito nets whenever they’re provided with accommodations. Shake out shoes, towels, and clothes, especially items that have been left outside, before putting them on or packing them away. Check under beds and tables and in baths and showers for surprise guests. Keep unscreened windows closed as often as you can. Limit time spent around swampy areas or walking around at night. Avoid being out in the sun for long periods of time to prevent sunstroke. If you have open wounds, keep them fully covered while you’re active during the day to help prevent infection.

Coronavirus

Costa Rica’s government was praised for its swift, stern, and steady response to the coronavirus pandemic, which saw early border, business, beach, and school closures; driving and social gathering restrictions; and face mask and vaccine mandates. At the time of writing in 2024, most of Costa Rica had stabilized, and annual visitor counts had returned to pre-pandemic levels, aiding in the recovery of the vital hard-hit tourism industry.

As general precautions, Costa Rica encourages visitors and residents to be vaccinated and wash their hands or use hand sanitizer. Though the government no longer mandates indoor masking across the board, some health-care settings and private businesses continue to require it. Travel with at least one mask in case you encounter a place that requires its use.

MEDICAL CARE

In the event of an emergency, call 911. Ambulances can also be reached by phoning 128 or the central office of the Cruz Roja (Red Cross; tel. 506/2528-0000; www.cruzroja.or.cr), which has several stations around the country. Serious illnesses and injuries should be treated at the emergencias (emergencies) department of a hospital. The majority of hospitals in Costa Rica have one.

If you’re far from a hospital, you can visit a clinic. Some are small informal public clinics, and others are top-of-the-line private medical centers. Nearly every town has at least one clinic, typically an ebais overseen by the government-run Caja Costarricense de Seguro Social (Costa Rican Social Security Fund, CCSS or simply the Caja; www.ccss.sa.cr [URL inactive]). The CCSS also oversees public hospitals. Several private hospitals dot the nation and are known for providing the highest level of medical care in Costa Rica.

For nonurgent concerns, some large hotels have on-call medical professionals on retainer. Most towns have at least one pharmacy (cities typically have many) stocked with run-of-the-mill items such as medications for headaches, stomachaches, muscle soreness, itch relief, and countless other conditions. Pharmacies also carry a range of contraceptives. A surprising number of pharmacies in touristy areas have English-speaking staff.

SAFETY

When common sense is exercised, traveling throughout Costa Rica is generally safe. Travelers should be extra alert in San José and cities around the Central Valley. These areas account for roughly 70 percent of all victim-based crimes in Costa Rica; the Caribbean accounts for an additional 10 percent. Always keep your wits about you wherever you go.

In case of an emergency, it’s easiest to call 911, which will connect you to the police for assistance. If you’re a victim of a crime, you can contact the tourist police (tel. 506/2286-1473), who typically have English-speaking staff, or the Organismo de Investigación Judicial (Judicial Investigation Agency, OIJ; tel. 506/2295-3000; https://sitiooij.poder-judicial.go.cr [URL inactive]), Costa Rica’s central crime investigation unit. For assistance with less pressing matters, you can ask for help from lodging or restaurant staff, vehicle rental agencies, or tourism companies. Most Ticos are willing to lend a helping hand.

If you need to reach the fire department, dial 118, or call the regular emergency dispatch via 911 and ask for the bomberos (firefighters).

Police

Costa Rica has two police forces that operate under different divisions of the government. Under the watch of the Ministerio de Obras Públicas y Transportes (Ministry of Public Works and Transportation, MOPT), the policía de tránsito (transit police) oversee transportation-related matters that pertain to permissions and licenses, driving laws, and parking infractions. They usually wear uniforms with white shirts and vests (typically with “Tránsito” on them) and drive navy-blue pickup trucks or motorcycles. You’ll see them along the sides of roads and highways with their radars ready to catch speeders.

Under the umbrella of the Ministerio de Seguridad Pública (Ministry of Public Security, MSP), the fuerza pública (public force) maintains public safety in Costa Rica. Divisions of the group include border police, coast guards, and tourist police, the last of which has English-speaking officers to best assist travelers when problems arise. Officers of the fuerza pública usually wear navy-blue uniforms and vests (with “Policía” on them) and drive white pickup trucks, motorcycles, or sedans.

Police stations, open 24 hours daily, are scattered throughout the country. Most cities and large towns have one, but they’re noticeably absent from several beachside communities.

Robbery and Theft

Countrywide, theft is a problem. Instances usually occur in the form of pickpocketing or theft of possessions left in or on unattended areas like beaches, parked vehicles, and bus storage compartments. To minimize risk, use hotel safes whenever provided, hide your camera equipment while sightseeing, and don’t wear jewelry. Always keep your eyes on your luggage, especially at bus stations and airports, and keep your cash concealed; divide cash and hide it in various pockets across your body and belongings. Travel with a copy of your passport and important documents so you have backups in the event the originals are stolen. Better yet, email yourself electronic copies so there’s always a copy to retrieve if needed.

Assault

Episodes of assault against travelers, especially violent assault, are rare, but they do happen. Some of the most unfortunate incidents are the result of opportunistic nighttime attacks. There are actions you can take to lower your risk of becoming a target. Being vigilant at night is a must. After dark, don’t withdraw money at ATMs, drive (if possible), or hang out on the beach or in any city park.

There is safety in numbers; travel with others whenever possible and stick to areas where people are regularly present. If you are a solo traveler—and especially if you’re traveling during the low season, when many towns become desolate—visit popular destinations. If you decide to go out at night alone, especially to drink, you’re an easy target.

Unsolicited Attention

Travelers, typically women, may find themselves the object of unsolicited attention from others, usually local men, while in bars and clubs. This behavior can include invitations to dance, offers to buy drinks, or catcalling. The behavior tends to be forward rather than aggressive, and most men will back off when asked to do so. It’s okay to say “No, gracias,” and return to what you were doing before you were approached. In the extremely rare case that an individual’s behavior is too aggressive, leave the establishment and find another place to hang out at. If you ever fear for your safety, don’t hesitate to call the police. Consider going out at night with others; you’re less likely to be bothered if you’re in a group. If you’re traveling on your own, consider joining a guided nightlife tour to help you safely experience cities and towns after dark.

Water and Beach Safety

Dangerous riptides, rip currents, and undertows exist off the shores of many beaches along both coasts. Do yourself a favor and research how to get out of a riptide before you travel. Most beaches in Costa Rica are not staffed with lifeguards, but an increasing number have signposts that issue stern warnings. Abide by them! Costa Rica’s open water claims far too many lives every year; it’s one of the leading causes of accidental deaths in the nation. You may be a strong swimmer, but you’re no match for the ocean.

Flags posted at beaches can help you identify water hazards. Costa Rica utilizes the International Life Saving Federation’s flag warning system. Keep an eye out for the following flags:

• green flag: low hazard; safe for swimming and surfing

• yellow flag: medium hazard; swim and surf cautiously

• red and yellow flag: enter the water only when a lifeguard is present

• red flag: high hazard; no swimming, advanced-level surfers only

• double red flag: water is closed to the public

• purple flag: dangerous marinelife present

• black and white flag: space for surfers and watercraft only; no swimming

In addition, the Universidad de Costa Rica supplies an online oceanographic information module (www.miocimar.ucr.ac.cr) that assesses the swimming and boating conditions for each coastal region every morning and afternoon. Although specific beaches aren’t identified, you can use the information to learn about general water-related hazards in the zone you intend to visit.

Extreme caution should also be exercised around waterfalls and swimming holes, which are often surrounded by jagged rocks that make it easy to slip. Don’t climb up the side of a waterfall, swim near the base of a powerful cascade, or jump from the top unless accompanied by a tour outfitter who has appropriately scouted out hazards and measured pool depth. Always keep young children and weak swimmers within arm’s reach near oceans, lakes, rivers, streams, waterfalls, swimming holes, hot springs, and hotel pools.

As silly as it may sound, don’t station yourself directly under the tall palms that back many of Costa Rica’s beaches. Coconuts have been known to fall, and they can cause significant damage when dropped from great heights. Pick a shady spot elsewhere if you can. If you can’t, lie under palm fronds as far away from the center of the tree as possible.

Getting Lost

Occasionally, hikers get lost in wooded areas because they either accidentally veered off course or chose to explore an area where access is not permitted. Most of Costa Rica’s national parks, biological reserves, and wildlife refuges provide well-marked trails that are easy to follow. It’s not difficult to stick to the paths, but it’s always a good idea to take a photo of the attraction’s map when you enter or take a hard copy if one exists. Some attractions are notorious for having untended trails. In these cases, having a tour guide who knows the area well is a must.

Travel Tips

WHAT TO PACK

Packing for Costa Rica depends largely on which destinations you intend to visit and which activities you plan to participate in. If you plan to engage in water activities or visit the beach often, consider packing quick-dry clothing, more than one bathing suit, and non-terrycloth towels. (Large microfiber cloths are great because they’re thin, light, and super absorbent.) Sunscreen is widely available in Costa Rica, but it’s more expensive than what you’ll likely pay for it at home. Although flip-flops are suitable for the sand, if you plan to do a lot of walking around beach communities, you may prefer a sandal with a more supportive sole.

If most of your time will be spent out in nature, you’ll want at least one pair of long pants (ideally of a light material), a long-sleeved shirt, and a broken-in pair of hiking boots or trail runners. Several attractions won’t permit you to enter if your shoes have an open toe or slits of any kind, as Keen footwear often does. Insect repellent can be purchased in Costa Rica, but it comes at a premium. A small cloth is handy to keep in your pocket to wipe drips of sweat from your eyes as you traverse humid forests. Antifog spray can help keep eyeglass lenses clear in similar environments.

Traveling Smartly and Safely

Maintaining awareness of your surroundings while you travel can save your life. Vacationing in Costa Rica is exciting, and it’s easy to get caught up in the thrill. When you vow to leave your troubles behind on vacation, you may detach yourself from other realities too. Try to maintain a clear head, even while it’s pumped full of adrenaline and clouded by the chaos of travel. At the very least, these suggestions should help you become a more conscious and prepared traveler.

Don’t sacrifice safety for selfies. Accidents and sometimes deaths have occurred as a result of people taking selfies. Remember, your trip is just a trip! No Instagram-worthy photo of you in a risky place or position is worth your life.

Trust your instincts. Your gut knows when something is wrong. If you’re unsure about an experience, such as the safety of a vehicle or an activity, the remoteness of a town, the qualifications of a tour guide, the preparation of a meal, or the condition of a back-road route, don’t take the chance.

Remain cautious when befriending strangers. Ticos are friendly and social people. Making a friend or two is common, and it isn’t a bad idea as long as you keep your willingness to trust others in check. Exercise caution if strangers invite you out, whether to a bar, the beach, or their home, especially at night.

Be (and stay) organized. Balance relaxation with organization. You can be lazy on vacation; just don’t forget to monitor your belongings and watch where you walk. When you let your guard down, someone (with sticky fingers and their eyes on your stuff) or something (like a fallen tree limb you could easily trip over) could make your travel experience miserable.

Plan the details too. Beyond the time you’ve put into choosing accommodations, securing transportation, and reserving tours, consider other details that will contribute to your travel experience. Estimate travel times between destinations so you can plan stops for snacks. Schedule ample sleep and rest each day to avoid physical exhaustion. Review restaurant menus online ahead of time.

If you’re into bird-watching or wildlife-spotting, camouflage clothing is best. Most tour guides supply spotting scopes, but bring your own set of binoculars so you can spot birds even when you’re not on a guided adventure. If you plan to explore nature at high elevations, pack for colder temperatures. Multiday excursions may require overnight supplies, such as a sleeping bag.

Pack a pair of pants for adventure tours like horseback riding and activities that use harnesses (like zip-lining and canyoneering), a pair of strap-on sandals or running shoes (most adventure tours cannot be done in flip-flops), and clips or bands for eyeglasses or sunglasses.

Recommended items for all travelers include a waterproof rain jacket or poncho (umbrellas are impractical as they’re difficult to use in dense forests and during adventure tours); a waterproof case or bag big enough to carry your phone, identification, and money; a small alarm clock for early-morning tour or transfer service starts; a flashlight or headlight (it’s dark by 6pm in Costa Rica); and anti-nausea medication to help you manage Costa Rica’s curving, mountainous roads. A backpack (with a waterproof rain cover) is best for packing all your gear, but if you only have a suitcase, make sure it’s small and light enough to lift with ease. Some routes—like trails to hotel rooms or bumpy roads to bus stations—aren’t flat enough to allow luggage to be pulled.

Remember to leave some space in your suitcase for bringing home souvenirs. Popular choices include bagged coffee, bottled rum or guaro (sugarcane liquor), artwork (especially Indigenous pieces), and wood products.

MONEY

The local currency in Costa Rica is the colón (pronounced coh-LOHN). The plural form is colones (pronounced coh-LOH-nays). Bills are in denominations of 20,000 (orange), 10,000 (green), 5,000 (yellow), 2,000 (blue), and 1,000 (red). Mil (one thousand) is written on each: A bill stamped 20 mil colones is worth 20,000 colones. A previously used 50,000 (purple) bill is being phased out, so make sure any money you exchange for your trip doesn’t include it.

Also being phased out are the old cotton paper versions of each bill while the country transitions to new polymer bills. Most businesses will only accept cash payments with the new polymer bills; some will provide the old cotton paper bills as change to eliminate them from their float. If you receive cotton paper bills, they can be exchanged for polymer ones at any bank.

Gold-colored coins come in denominations of 500, 100, 50, 25, 10, and 5. If you’re lucky, you’ll acquire one of the new 500 colones coins that was released in 2021 to celebrate Costa Rica’s bicentennial; the limited-edition bimetallic coin is worth saving.

Prices in Costa Rica appear in U.S. dollars or colones. Costa Rica uses a period instead of a comma in depicting numbers of 1,000 or greater. For example, if items in a shop are priced in colones, the price might appear as 10.000. This figure means 10,000 colones. To make things even more complicated for U.S. and Canadian visitors, the symbol for colón (₡) is similar to the symbol that the United States and Canada use for cent (¢).

In popular tourist destinations, U.S. dollars are accepted by most businesses, including accommodations, tour operators, transportation service providers, restaurants, souvenir stores, grocery stores, pharmacies, and gas stations. The majority will not accept Canadian dollars, euros, or other currencies unless their owner has a connection to the foreign country. Businesses in nontouristy towns and remote areas prefer payment in colones. Most establishments won’t accept bills greater than US$20, so be sure to bring money in low denominations.

If you don’t want to pay in cash, credit card payments (with Visa, Mastercard, and in fewer cases, American Express and Discover) are accepted by most establishments. If you have two cards, bring both to Costa Rica, in case the cajero automático (ATM) eats one, you lose one, or one gets stolen. Your card provider may charge fees if you use a credit card in the country, including one fee for out-of-country purchases and another for foreign exchange when charges are processed in colones. If you plan to visit ATMs often throughout your trip—only taking out small increments of money every few days of travel—you’ll get hit with hefty service fees. To avoid paying unnecessary fees, travel with as much cash as you’ll spend throughout your trip. If doing so makes you nervous, rely on ATMs and credit cards, and consider the extra fees payment for your peace of mind. A few tourism companies accept Bitcoin and other cryptocurrencies.

Payment Requests

With each passing year, more companies are willing to collect online payments, either through their website, by way of a payment link issued by their bank, or via a convenient online payment tool like PayPal. Alternatively, nearly every business can accept payment via international wire transfer (note that there’s a transfer fee associated with this method, and wire transfers can take weeks to go through). Some businesses are behind the times and will ask you to sign a credit card authorization form to guarantee bookings. This gives them permission to charge your credit card in the event of a last-minute cancellation or if you’re a no-show. Some companies don’t use credit card processing machines and only accept payment in cash. Regardless of the payment method used, you may need to provide a copy of your identification. A handful of companies, including many water sports outfitters and vehicle rental agencies, require identification before they will confirm bookings.

Tax

In 2019, Costa Rica began applying a value added tax (VAT) to all tourism services. The tax rate is 13 percent. Many tour operators, hotels, and transportation service providers automatically factor the VAT into their published rates, but several do not. Have each company you book through confirm whether tax is included in their rates.

Restaurants have long charged Costa Rica’s original sales tax (also 13 percent), so most are unaffected by the VAT. Look for the phrase impuesto de ventas incluido (IVI, sales tax included) on websites and menus to learn whether the cost of food and drinks includes tax. Be aware that many restaurants also impose a 10 percent service fee (an automatic gratuity) separate from sales tax. Restaurants might advertise one charge but not the other—or in some cases neither, resulting in an extra 23 percent charge being added to your bill—so keep your eyes open for both.

Double taxation—charging 13 percent VAT and 13 percent sales tax—is illegal. You should only ever pay one tax, never both.

Currency Exchange

At the time of writing, the currency exchange rate hovered around 525 colones to US$1. Always know the going rate to avoid losing money when making purchases. It helps to have a small conversion chart in your back pocket while you shop: 2,500 colones is roughly $4.75, 5,000 colones is roughly $9.50, and so on. Some businesses insist on applying their own exchange rates if you want to pay in U.S. dollars, which, not surprisingly, lean in their favor.

Money can be exchanged at airport counters, banks, and some hotels. No matter where you go in the country, if you pay for an item in U.S. dollars, you’ll likely receive change in colones. You’ll collect the currency over the course of your trip, so there’s no need to convert all your money before you travel.

Tipping

Tipping isn’t common among locals. But since many foreigners, mainly Americans and Canadians, are accustomed to awarding gratuities at home, tipping has made its way to Costa Rica and is now an expectation in the tourism industry. If the level of service you receive warrants a tip, don’t hesitate to give one.

Tour guides earn the highest amount, ranging $5-10 pp per guide for short excursions and $5-15 pp per guide for full-day adventures. In most cases, tips can be handed directly to your tour guide. Some attractions provide tip boxes, and pooled tips are then divided among the staff.

Some restaurants charge an automatic 10 percent gratuity called the impuesto de servicio (service tax). In general, sodas don’t do so, but tourist-geared establishments do. Look to the menu or waitstaff for confirmation. For exceptional service, a tip of up to 20 percent (including the automatic gratuity) is appropriate.

It’s also kind to give a few dollars to hotel porters and to leave the same amount on your night table (sometimes an envelope is provided) for hotel housekeeping staff. Taxi drivers aren’t usually tipped, but you can round up the fare if you like. You can also give a few dollars to private transfer service and shared shuttle service drivers, as well as boat and water taxi captains, as a thank-you for providing safe travel.

COMMUNICATIONS

Telephones and Cell Phones

Telephone numbers in Costa Rica have eight digits. Most landlines begin with 2, and most cell phone numbers begin with 8. Many landline numbers correspond with geographical regions. For example, most landlines around La Fortuna begin with 2479, landlines around Manuel Antonio begin with 2777, and so on. Newer number assignments, which aren’t yet common in the country, can start with 3, 4, 5, 6, or 7. Costa Rica’s international code is 011 and the country code is 506. These numbers don’t apply to local calls made from within Costa Rica, but they do need to be dialed when calling Costa Rica from your home country prior to visiting.

It’s smart to have access to a cell phone in Costa Rica for navigational and emergency purposes. Unless your phone provider offers a phenomenal deal on international calling and data usage, you’ll want to purchase a service plan in Costa Rica to avoid astronomical long distance and roaming fees. There are several Costa Rican providers to choose from, but I’ve found Kölbi (www.kolbi.cr) to be the most reliable. Kölbi has offices (named Tienda Kölbi or Agencia ICE) in popular destinations such as San José, Liberia, Alajuela, La Fortuna, Monteverde, Sámara, Nosara, Jacó, Quepos, Dominical, and Uvita. Conveniently, competitor Claro (www.claro.cr) has a small desk near baggage claim at the Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría. Through either provider you can buy service and a SIM card ($4-20, depending on the quantity of data).

Your phone must be unlocked (not tethered to one particular service provider) to work in Costa Rica. Before leaving home, contact your service provider to confirm whether your phone is locked, and if it is, ask about unlocking it. Hold on to the casing of the SIM card and the paperwork you receive; the documents contain codes and numbers you’ll need to activate and reload the service. SIM cards can be reloaded at most grocery stores in Costa Rica. Although cell and internet service work well in most areas of the country, signal strength weakens as you venture into remote areas; this is the case regardless of which provider you choose.

The free cell phone application called WhatsApp is used widely in Costa Rica. With an internet connection, you can place phone calls, send text and voice messages, and transfer photos and videos over the app for free. Many tourism businesses have WhatsApp-equipped cell phones so you can call or message them. Look for the WhatsApp logo on a business’s website to find out if the company uses the application. If you download and install the app on your cell phone prior to coming to Costa Rica, you’ll be able to use it within minutes of purchasing and installing a SIM card.

Without a cell phone, you can make calls from phone booths in towns; they’re usually in public parks or near street corners. Calling cards can be purchased from telecommunication offices and supermarkets. Several hotels offer free local calls, and some offer free international calling too.

Internet Access

Wireless internet is readily available in Costa Rica. Most accommodations provide it for free, but service may be limited to common areas like lobbies. Some private transfer service providers and shared shuttle service providers have vehicles equipped with Wi-Fi so you can access the internet on your personal device while traveling between destinations.

SPANISH-LANGUAGE SCHOOLS

Several Spanish-language schools are spread around the country. Not surprisingly, institutes by the beach are popular. I like the Nosara Spanish Institute (tel. 506/2682-1460; www.nosaraspanishinstitute.com) in Nosara, which offers combined language and surf programs. For an intimate learning experience, go with the small-scale Instituto Estelar Bilingüe (tel. 506/2665-6921; www.estelarcr.com), based in Liberia. One of the country’s largest language schools, the Centro Panamericano de Idiomas (CPI; tel. 506/2265-6306; www.cpi-edu.com) has campuses in the Central Valley, Monteverde, and Playa Flamingo.

OPPORTUNITIES FOR VOLUNTEERING

La Fortuna and Monteverde

Several of Costa Rica’s wildlife rescue centers accept long-term volunteers, but the Proyecto Asis Wildlife and Sloth Rescue Center (www.institutoasis.com) offers convenient 2.5-hour volunteer experiences and combined volunteer and one-night homestays. These short and inexpensive volunteer stints, which can easily be added to most trip itineraries, are a great way to see and learn about rescued Costa Rican wildlife while lending your time and effort to a noble cause. Volunteer duties change regularly but can include preparing toys, cleaning enclosures, and feeding animals. If you have more time to commit, arrange a local homestay through the center and volunteer for 2-4 weeks.

Nicoya Peninsula

The Macaw Recovery Network (www.macawrecoverynetwork.org), which operates the Punta Islita Wild Macaw Reserve, a scarlet macaw breeding and reintroduction station, invites volunteers to aid in its efforts. If you’re interested in avifauna, consider signing up for one of the station’s volunteer stints or apprenticeship programs. Some volunteer opportunities and programs run according to set schedules and require a minimum time commitment (see the website for details). Depending on which you choose, you may find yourself running guided tours, maintaining aviaries, preparing food, or monitoring resident birds.

If you’re an active, internationally certified lifeguard, you’re welcome to join the team of volunteers that run the nonprofit Santa Teresa Lifeguards (www.santateresalifeguards.org) on the Nicoya Peninsula. In return for your service, you’ll get free room and board at the organization’s headquarters in Santa Teresa.

Central Pacific

On the Pacific coast, hidden in the hills north of Manuel Antonio and Quepos, are a wildlife rescue center and wildlife sanctuary overseen by the nonprofit organization Kids Saving the Rainforest (www.kidssavingtherainforest.org). Here, you can volunteer for as little as one day or as long as a month, working alongside staff members to care for sick or injured wildlife. Volunteer responsibilities vary, but usually include enclosure cleaning and food preparation. If you have at least three months to spend in Costa Rica and a university or college degree in the field of veterinary medicine, wildlife management, biology, or animal conservation, consider applying for one of the organization’s internship positions for a chance to interact more closely with the animals.

Another way you can make a difference is to travel to Costa Rica with items on the organization’s wish list and donate the items directly to the wildlife sanctuary. You can also sponsor an animal from afar. See the Kids Saving the Rainforest’s website for its wish list and sponsorship details.

Osa Peninsula

The nonprofit Corcovado Foundation (www.corcovadofoundation.org) is one of the Osa Peninsula’s most active organizations. The foundation operates and accepts volunteers for several great projects that focus on sea turtle conservation, environmental education, and sustainable tourism. Most projects are centered around Bahía Drake, but some take place in different regions of Costa Rica. Volunteer duties vary by project but range from monitoring and relocating sea turtle nests to teaching kids about the environment.

The Life for Life Sea Turtle Conservation Project (www.lifeforlifehosteldrakebay.com) is all about supporting one man on a mission to do good. This project operates from a remote area of Bahía Drake, approximately 8 km (5 mi) southwest of Agujitas. It’s run by Ricardo, a local who has dedicated decades of his life to protecting sea turtle eggs. Volunteer to help Ricardo and you can stay at his hostel, enjoy traditional home-cooked meals, and help relocate turtle eggs to safe areas. This is one of the least touristy volunteer experiences you can have in the country.

Caribbean Coast

Each year, some of the world’s most endangered sea turtles storm the beach in Parque Nacional Tortuguero, much to the delight of tourists, ecologists, and volunteers. The sea turtle conservation organizations that operate in the northern Caribbean region are regarded as some of the best wildlife initiatives in the country, given the work being done to tag, monitor, and study marine species.

To help protect sea turtle species in this region, you can take your pick of volunteer opportunities along the Caribbean coast. In Tortuguero, you can learn about local efforts, “adopt” sea turtles, and donate your time at the Sea Turtle Conservancy (www.conserveturtles.org). Volunteer opportunities provide a chance to work alongside a research team that tags, surveys, and measures sea turtles, identifies nests, counts eggs, and patrols beaches.

In Parismina, a community 30 km (19 mi) down the coast from Tortuguero, volunteer opportunities are offered by Association Save the Turtles of Parismina (ASTOP; www.parisminaturtles.org). Volunteer with ASTOP and you can help protect sea turtle eggs from poachers and predators by joining a team that monitors turtle hatcheries and operates nightly beach patrols.

Also available in the Caribbean are opportunities to help Costa Rica’s avifauna population. The Manzanillo-based organization Ara Manzanillo (www.aramanzanillo.org) welcomes volunteers to assist with the operation of its great green macaw breeding and reintroduction station. Volunteers help forage the forest for natural foods, maintain feeders, monitor nests, clean the field station, run guided tours, and release macaws into the wild.

ACCESS FOR TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES

Unfortunately, much of Costa Rica is inaccessible to travelers with disabilities. Pothole-ridden roads, broken sidewalks, and unpaved paths make it tough to get around, but doing so isn’t impossible. Some taxis, buses (mainly in San José), shared shuttle services, and private transfer services can provide wheelchair-suitable transport if requested in advance. Most modern hotels provide at least one wheelchair-accessible room and wheelchair-accessible facilities; but many hotel restaurants don’t have wheelchair-friendly tables.

Working to make Costa Rica more accessible to all visitors and residents is the Red Costarricense de Turismo Accesible (Costa Rican Network of Accessible Tourism; www.costaricaturismoaccesible.com). This group has been instrumental in the development of Costa Rica’s accessible beaches, the number of which increases every year. They help build wheelchair-accessible paths across the sand, have trailers equipped with accessible showers, and can even supply amphibian chairs.

Tourist-friendly accessible beaches in Costa Rica include Playa Hermosa in Playa Hermosa (on the northern Pacific coast, not to be confused with the Playa Hermosa on the central Pacific coast), Playa Tamarindo in Tamarindo, Playa Sámara and Playa Cangrejal in Sámara, Playa Jacó in Jacó, Playa Espadilla Norte in Manuel Antonio, and Playa Blanca in Cahuita.

If you’re in search of attractions that provide inclusive experiences, check out the Jardín Botánico Lankester in Cartago, Parque Nacional Carara near Jacó, the Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park near La Fortuna, the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena or Valle Escondido in Monteverde, Parque Nacional Santa Rosa on the northern Pacific coast, Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio in Manuel Antonio, the Estación Biológica La Selva in Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí, and Parque Nacional Cahuita in Cahuita, all of which offer wheelchair-accessible trail systems.

At Parque Nacional Volcán Poás (near Alajuela) and Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú (near Cartago), paved paths connect visitor centers to the parks’ principal volcano craters. For wildlife exhibits, don’t miss Alajuela’s Rescate Wildlife Rescue Center. The rescue center has smooth trails, but you’ll need to be able to maneuver inclines and declines—or have a travel companion who can assist with these parts of the trails. Inside the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro in the Northern Inlands, a long wheelchair-accessible boardwalk extends out over water and provides a 360-degree view of the refuge. It has one steep incline and decline.

Philanthropy for Travelers

Ever since my husband and I developed a fútbol shoe donation project for underprivileged Costa Rican kids enamored with the sport, I’ve been a proponent of travel philanthropy. The idea is simple—that a vacation can also be an opportunity to help your intended destination. This is done by bringing items from home to donate during your travels.

The American nonprofit Pack for a Purpose (a subsidiary of Travel Elevates; www.packforapurpose.org) offers a great way to get involved. Simply visit the organization’s website to learn which Costa Rican companies (mainly hotels) are involved in the project and which common items, ranging from school supplies to lightly used clothing to health products (medications excluded), are on the current wish list. Purchase or collect the items from home, bring them to Costa Rica, and drop them off at a project-approved business. (Note: If you plan to donate items with a combined value of over US$500, you may need to pay an import tax to bring the items into the country.)

Of the many accommodations I recommend in this guide, the Casitas Tenorio B&B (in Bijagua), the Chilamate Rainforest Eco-Retreat (in Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí), Olas Verdes (in Nosara), the RipJack Inn (in Playa Grande), and the Selva Verde Lodge (in Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí) participate in Pack for a Purpose, as does one of my favorite surf schools, Nosara’s Safari Surf School.

If your dream is to explore the ocean, you can go scuba diving with Rich Coast Diving (Road 151, 400 m/0.25 mi south of the beach at Playas del Coco; tel. 506/2670-0176; www.richcoastdiving.com; 7am-5pm daily), based in Playas del Coco, a certified DDI (Disabled Divers International) outfit trained in providing safe and fun diving experiences for travelers with disabilities. Glide above the treetops by zip line at the Arenal Sky Adventures Park (off Road 142, 7 km/4.3 mi south on the road to El Castillo; tel. 506/2479-4100; www.skyadventures.travel; 7am-9pm daily), near La Fortuna. You can ride an aerial tram to the top of the rainforest and soar across zip-line cables above the treetop canopy; both activities can be experienced in a wheelchair.

Travelers who are visually impaired will encounter information written in Braille within Parque Nacional Carara and Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. But even areas of Costa Rica without such placards make great travel destinations. Costa Rica has an invigorating natural soundtrack, rich and earthy smells, and flavorful tastes. My visually impaired father particularly loved the coolness of the cloud forest, the mellow tone of a marimba instrument, the steady low buzz of hummingbirds in flight, the floral hint of achiote (annatto) in rice dishes, and even the smell of sulfur in hot springs water. Costa Rica can be enjoyed with all the senses.

TRAVELING WITH CHILDREN

Costa Rica is a family vacation destination. It’s also an adventure destination in a tropical forest. Prepare your children for hot days, winding drives around mountains, and unexpected creepy crawlers. Insects and small geckos often find their way into lodgings. Pack snacks for long car rides. A few transportation services offer free onboard Wi-Fi to help pass the time, and if you plan to drive yourself around Costa Rica, bring, rent (through your chosen vehicle rental agency), or request (through your chosen transportation service provider) a child car seat. Costa Rican law dictates that children under the age of 12 who are smaller than 1.45 m (4 ft 9 in) must ride in one.

Several tour operators impose minimum age limits for activity participation. Some activities, primarily those that require use of a harness, have additional minimum height and weight limits. Verify each tour in advance to avoid disappointment on the day of your reserved excursions. It’s also a good idea to confirm tour durations and any potential difficulties (like uphill treks) in advance to avoid surprises. Many tour operators, accommodations, and shared shuttle service providers offer discounted rates for child travelers or don’t charge for them at all. A few restaurants have children’s meals.

WOMEN TRAVELING ALONE

Women traveling alone should be vigilant about where and when they travel. In general, daytime visits to popular destinations and attractions are safe. If you go out at night, stick to recommended establishments and avoid venturing out into isolated or nontouristy neighborhoods. Consider joining a guided night tour, such as a pub crawl, to experience the nightlife as part of a group led by a local guide. If you’re approached at a bar and asked to dance, it’s okay to decline the offer with “No, gracias.” Don’t accept drinks from strangers. Prearrange a private pickup service for the end of the night through your lodging or have them confirm the telephone number for the closest official taxi service. Use only official red taxis, as opposed to unlicensed taxis, to move around towns. Never share a ride with people you don’t know.

Don’t go to a park or the beach at night. Visiting these places, which are typically devoid of security and poorly lit after dark, can put you at risk of robbery or assault. If possible, stay at known and secure hotels or hostels in town centers, not vacation homes or other lodging types in the outskirts of an area. Travel during high season when you’re most likely to share accommodations, restaurants, and transportation vehicles with others. If you must travel during low season, avoid remote areas of the country: These empty during down periods and will leave you feeling like you’re on your own. Use shared shuttle services, as opposed to taxis or private transfer services, to best surround yourself with other passengers while traveling long distances through unfamiliar areas.

RACIAL AND CULTURAL DIVERSITY

Generally speaking, Costa Rica is welcoming of people of different races and cultures. But that’s not to suggest that racism doesn’t exist. Marginalized racial groups, namely Afro-descendants and Indigenous groups, struggle to attain the same opportunities, positions of power, and resources as nonmarginalized Costa Ricans.

Progress toward equality is evident, albeit inconsistent, in Costa Rica. Annual celebrations like Limón’s Carnaval del Caribe (Caribbean Carnival), a grand display that embraces Afro-descendant culture, and milestones like the government’s 2016 ratification of the Inter-American Convention against Racism, Racial Discrimination, and Related Forms of Intolerance, a formal denouncement of race-based inequality in Costa Rica, are steps in the right direction. The assimilation of some Indigenous people into mainstream society, and the increased presence of Afro-descendants in regions outside the Caribbean, are also encouraging trends. Rising xenophobic attitudes toward Nicaraguan immigrants—Costa Rica’s largest immigrant group—are very troubling.

Within the tourism sector, international visitors—regardless of their background—are equally appreciated for the income and job opportunities they help generate. Because they’re regularly exposed to diverse clientele, tourism business owners and employees tend to be more accepting of unfamiliar customs, values, and norms than the rest of the population. Though rare racist behavior can occur anywhere, it is less likely at popular tourist destinations.

Religion plays a central role in the lives of many Ticos, most of whom are devout Roman Catholics. Accounts of anti-Semitism, Islamophobic acts, and other forms of religious discrimination are uncommon. Rarely is religion discussed during touristic experiences; however, if the subject is broached by someone you don’t know and trust, it’s best to keep talk light and minimal to avoid possible offense.

LGBTQ TRAVELERS

Costa Rica isn’t as progressive in LGBTQ matters as the United States and Canada. But it’s not an intolerant country by any means. Public displays of affection should be kept to a minimum, but this applies to couples of all sexual orientations. Roughly 300,000 LGBTQ travelers visit Costa Rica each year. San José and Quepos-Manuel Antonio have the largest concentration of LGBTQ-run establishments.

Costa Rica is making strides toward inclusion and unity, allowing its citizens the option to alter their name and gender on identification documents. The use of the letter “x” at the end of words that traditionally end with “o” (implying male gender) or “a” (implying female gender) is becoming more common. Though still widely underrepresented in positions of power, a few openly gay and lesbian individuals hold political and legislative titles and are no doubt influential in moving the country forward. Arguably, Costa Rica’s greatest step toward accepting LGBTQ people was taken in 2020 when the nation became the first in Central America (the sixth in Latin America) to legalize same-sex marriage. Costa Rica also awarded same-sex couples the right to adopt children jointly. In 2022, the Fundación Para la Inclusión y la Diversidad (Foundation for Inclusion and Diversity, ID; www.idfoundationcr.org [URL inactive]) opened a campus in the Central Valley to provide a safe place where members of Costa Rica’s LGBTQ community can study and seek employment opportunities.

Most tourism businesses in Costa Rica work to provide respectful, safe, and enjoyable experiences for all travelers. Some explicitly state on their website that they’re LGBTQ-friendly, but others that don’t can be equally welcoming. Several travel companies offer tailored vacation packages with LGBTQ travelers in mind. With same-sex marriage now legal, a number have opened their destination wedding services to couples of all orientations.

Instrumental in creating a more inclusive Costa Rica is the Cámara de Comercio Diversa de Costa Rica (Costa Rica Chamber of Diverse Commerce, CCDCR; www.ccdcr.org), an organization that teaches local businesses ways to support the invaluable LGBTQ-traveler demographic. If you would rather use an LGBTQ-specific travel agency to plan your vacation, Costa Rica Gay Traveler (www.costaricagaytraveler.com), based in San José, is a great choice.

Marcha de la Diversidad, also known as Pride Costa Rica, is an annual event that draws LGBTQ community members and allies to the streets of downtown San José each June or July. It’s marked with a lively, colorful, and musical parade. Orgullo en la Playa (Pride on the Beach) is a similar but smaller gathering that takes place in Manuel Antonio around mid-July. Event listings are often documented in Playita, Costa Rica’s LGBTQ-themed magazine. A free copy is available to download on the website of Gay Tours Costa Rica (www.gaytourscr.com), a travel company that specializes in creating tours and getaways for gay travelers.

SENIOR TRAVELERS

Life in the tropics can be hot and humid. Carry plenty of water to ensure you stay hydrated. If you’re active at home, you’ll love being active in Costa Rica. If you’re not, don’t overdo it while here. Bring all the medication you’ll need from home; you may find having a doctor’s note and a medication list eases travel through the airport. Also bring any medical equipment you may need. Although Costa Rica has reliable hospitals, clinics, and pharmacies, they may not carry the items you need or be open or nearby when you need them. Cold temperatures at high elevations can be chilling, so travel with warm clothing if you’re headed to the mountains.

Some attractions, including several national parks, offer discounted rates to seniors. You’ll see these rates advertised as being for adultos mayores or personas mayores, terms that generally translate to “senior citizens” but also apply to visitors. The government recognizes seniors as individuals aged 65 years or older. Typically, attractions follow suit.

If you’re thinking of retiring to Costa Rica, Erin Van Rheenen’s Moon Living Abroad in Costa Rica (www.moon.com) outlines everything you need to know to successfully relocate and join the country’s large network of expats.

WEIGHTS AND MEASURES

Costa Rica utilizes the metric system. The country also uses the same 110- to 120-volt, 60-hertz electrical sockets found in the United States and Canada. Newer accommodations provide at least one three-prong connector per room, but sometimes only in the bathroom. Older properties may only have two-prong sockets.

TIME ZONE

Six hours earlier than Greenwich Mean Time, Costa Rica is in the central time zone shared with the United States and Canada. The country does not observe daylight saving time.

BUSINESS HOURS

Business hours vary significantly by business type and region. Government offices typically operate 8am-5pm Monday-Friday, give or take an hour. Police stations and hospitals are open 24 hours daily. Businesses centered in touristy areas, where the flow of new buyers is constant, offer extended hours and are usually open on weekends. Some establishments are closed or open late on Sundays. Tourism operations, including adventure and nature tours, transportation services, and accommodations, operate every day of the year, including holidays.

Establishments sometimes cite their hours of operation using the first letter of the Spanish word for each day of the week, except for Wednesday: L (lunes, Monday), M (martes, Tuesday), K (miércoles, Wednesday), J (jueves, Thursday), V (viernes, Friday), S (sábado, Saturday), and D (domingo, Sunday).

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tourist Offices

The government-run Instituto Costarricense de Turismo (Costa Rican Institute of Tourism, ICT; Avenida Central, between Calle 1 and Calle 3; tel. 506/2299-5800; www.ict.go.cr; 8am-4pm Mon.-Fri.), based in San José, is Costa Rica’s leading tourism organization. Innumerable travel agencies and tour operators extend tourism services to nearly every corner of the country. You don’t need to look far to find people willing to answer your questions or sell you tours and activities.

Maps

Maps are handed out generously in Costa Rica. Most vehicle rental agencies, tourism offices, and even some hotels provide them free of charge. Through its website Essential Costa Rica (www.visitcostarica.com [URL inactive]), the ICT offers several detailed, well-keyed maps that can be downloaded for free as PDFs. It’s also worth knowing that Google Maps allows downloads for offline use. If you use the tool to map out your driving routes or to create itineraries while planning your trip, download copies to keep on file in case you lose access to the internet.

Resources

Glossary

Spanish Phrasebook

PRONUNCIATION

BASIC AND COURTEOUS EXPRESSIONS

TERMS OF ADDRESS

TRANSPORTATION

ACCOMMODATIONS

FOOD

SHOPPING

HEALTH

POST OFFICE AND COMMUNICATIONS

AT THE BORDER

AT THE GAS STATION

VERBS

COLORS

NUMBERS

TIME

DAYS AND MONTHS

Suggested Reading

HISTORY AND CULTURE

LITERATURE

NATURE AND FIELD GUIDES

Suggested Films

Internet Resources

TOURISM INFORMATION

PARKS AND RECREATION

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Glossary

achiote: annatto

agua de sapo: a drink comprising cane sugar, lime, and ginger

agua de tamarindo: juice produced from tamarind pulp

agua dulce: hot sugarcane water (similar to hiel)

águila: nickname for Imperial beer; also means eagle

alcalde: mayor

algodones: cotton candy

almendro: almond

arrecife: reef

arribadas: literally “arrivals,” referring to sea turtle nesting events

arroz cantonés: Cantonese rice

arroz con leche: rice pudding

arroz con pollo: rice with chicken

arroz con vegetales: rice with vegetables

artesanos: artisans

barrio: neighborhood

batidos: smoothies

birra: slang word for beer

boca: appetizer; Costa Rica’s take on Spanish tapas

bomba: poetic, four-line rhyming statement used to show endearment to loved ones or imaginary figures; can also mean gas station or fireworks

bomberos: firefighters

bosque: forest

boyero: oxcart driver

cabañas: cabins (similar to cabinas)

cabinas: cabins (similar to cabañas)

cafecito: a cup of coffee enjoyed unhurriedly and with companionship, typically among Ticos

cajeta: sugary, chewy dessert bar

calaveras: decorative Mexican skulls

campesino: farmer

caña de azúcar: sugarcane

canasta: rooftop carrier

cantina: old-fashioned bar

carambola: star fruit

Caribe: Caribbean

carnicería: meat shop

carreta: oxcart

cas: guava

casa: house

casado: traditional dish of rice and beans on a plate, accompanied by a variety of side dishes

casitas: small houses

ceniza: ash

ceviche: raw seafood or fish marinated in citrus

chayote: squash

Chepe: nickname for San José

chicharrones: fried pork rinds

chifrijo: mixed bowl of rice, beans, and fried pork rinds, among other fixings

Chiliguaro: cocktail that blends guaro with mandarin lime, Tabasco, and salt

chiverre: a type of squash

chorreadas: sweet corn pancakes

chorreador: device for brewing coffee made of wood and equipped with a cloth filter

churchill: copo (shaved ice) topped with fruit salad

churros: fried-dough pastry sticks rolled in sugar and cinnamon

cisternas: vehicles with water tanks

colectivo: collective, referring to shared transportation (most often a bus) that makes several stops

colón: Costa Rican currency; plural form is colones

comida típica: typical food

comprobante: receipt

copo: shaved-ice dessert topped with syrup and condensed milk

costillas: nickname for turnover-style pastries, often filled with apple, pineapple, guava, or other fruit

diputados: deputies

directo: direct, referring to transportation that doesn’t make stops

disco: nightclub

dulce de leche: a caramel-like confection

ejecutivo: executive

empanada: fried or baked turnover pastry typically stuffed with meat, beans, or cheese

en efectivo: to pay in cash

enagua larga: long skirts, typically worn during the traditional Punto Guanacasteco dance

ensalada rusa: Russian salad; a beet, potato, egg, and mayonnaise mixture

ensalada verde: green salad, referring to a garden salad

fábricas de carretas: cart factories

fiestas cívicas: civic festivals

finca: farm

flan de coco: coconut flan

fogón: stove

fresas: strawberries

frontera: border or boundary

fruta de pan: breadfruit

fuerza pública: Costa Rica’s safety police

fútbol: soccer

gallo pinto: traditional rice and bean blend, typically served for breakfast

gallos: tortillas topped with cheese, egg, or meat

graderías: stands, referring to rodeo seating

guanábana: soursop

guapote: rainbow bass

guaro: sugarcane liquor

guía: tour guide

güipipías: authentic shouts

heladería: ice cream shop

hiel: hot sugarcane water (similar to agua dulce)

hierba buena: spearmint

horchata: sweet and creamy blend of ground rice, condensed milk, and cinnamon

huevos rancheros: eggs served in a tomato-based sauce

jengibre: ginger, referring to flavor and the plant

lazos de lujo: roping, referring to rodeo activity

leche condensada: condensed milk

legislativo: legislative

limonada con hierba buena: mint lemonade

lomito: beef tenderloin

mae: dude

mamón chino: rambutan, a fruit with a sweet and slimy center that looks and tastes like a peeled grape

manzana de agua: water apple

maracuyá: passion fruit

maría: taxi meter

mariposario: butterfly garden

máscaras: masks worn during cultural events

mejengas: informal fútbol matches

mercados: markets

mirador: lookout

misa: mass

montas de toro: bullfights

mora: blackberry

oficina de migración: immigration office

olla de carne: beef stew

palenques: communities

palmito: heart of palm

pan bon: dark sweet bread

panaderías: bakeries

pañuelo: handkerchief, typically worn during the traditional Punto Guanacasteco dance

para llevar: to go, referring to food or drink orders

páramo: high plains

pargo rojo: red snapper

parques nacionales: national parks

patacones: smashed and fried green plantains

patís: savory turnovers often stuffed with meat, pineapple, or plantain

payasos: clowns

peajes: tollbooths

pejibaye: peach palm fruit

pescadería: fish market

picadillo: diced mixed vegetables often featuring potato, squash, or heart of palm

pico de gallo: salsa comprising diced tomato, pepper, onion, and pineapple mixed with cilantro and lemon juice

piña: pineapple

pipa fría: cold coconut water, typically served in the coconut, with a straw

piratas: unofficial taxi drivers

plantintás: turnovers stuffed with plantain

plata: slang term for money, used to imply cash

plátano frito: fried plantain (similar to plátanos maduros)

plátanos maduros: fried plantains (similar to plátano frito)

playas: beaches

plaza de toros: bullring

policía de tránsito: transit police

pollo asado: roasted chicken

pozol: corn and pork soup

pulpería: corner store

pulpo: octopus

Punto Guanacasteco: an animated and synchronized folkloric dance

pura vida: Costa Rica’s slogan; translates to “pure life”

puré de papas: mashed potatoes

puro Tico: purely Costa Rican

queso blanco: white cheese

queso frito: fried cheese

queso maduro: aged cheese

rancheros: ranch music

refugios: refuges

regidores: councilors

reserva biológica: biological reserve

retahílas: rehearsals, referring to recitation of cultural poems

rompope: eggnog-like drink

rondón: traditional fish and vegetable coconut-milk soup flavored with Caribbean spices

rotunda: traffic circle

sabanero: slang term for cowboy, specific to Guanacaste

salsa caribeña: Caribbean sauce; a slightly sweet brown sauce that looks like watered-down gravy

senderos acuáticos: canals

siesta: nap

soda: traditional Costa Rican family restaurant

sopa negra: black bean soup

talabartería: saddlery

tapa de dulce: unrefined cane sugar

temazcal: sweat lodge

Ticos: Costa Ricans

tiquismos: Costa Rican slang words and phrases

tope: equestrian parade

tope infantil: kids’ equestrian parade

tortillas con queso: tortillas with cheese

tortillas rellenas: stuffed corn tortillas

trapiche: sugarcane mill

tres leches: sweet cake soaked with three kinds of milk

trucha: trout

tuanis: good; slang term to imply coolness

vaquero: cowboy

vigorones: tangy mix of cabbage, cassava, chicharrones, and pico de gallo

yuca: cassava

yuca frita: fried cassava; similar in taste and appearance to thick french fries

Spanish Phrasebook

Spanish commonly uses 30 letters—the familiar English 26, plus four straightforward additions: ch, ll, ñ, and rr, explained in “Consonants” below.

PRONUNCIATION

Once you learn them, Spanish pronunciation rules—in contrast to English—don’t change. Spanish vowels generally sound softer than in English. (Note: The capitalized syllables below receive stronger accents.)

Vowels

a like ah, as in “hah”: agua AH-gooah (water), pan PAHN (bread), and casa CAH-sah (house)

e like ay, as in “may:” mesa MAY-sah (table), tela TAY-lah (cloth), and de DAY (of, from)

i like ee, as in “need”: diez dee-AYZ (ten), comida ko-MEE-dah (meal), and fin FEEN (end)

o like oh, as in “go”: peso PAY-soh (weight), ocho OH-choh (eight), and poco POH-koh (a bit)

u like oo, as in “cool”: uno OO-noh (one), cuarto KOOAHR-toh (room), and usted oos-TAYD (you); when it follows a “q” the u is silent; when it follows an “h” or has an umlaut, it’s pronounced like “w”

Consonants

b, d, f, k, l, m, n, p, q, s, t, v, w, x, y, z, ch pronounced almost as in English; h occurs, but is silent—not pronounced at all

c like k as in “keep”: cuarto KOOAR-toh (room); when it precedes “e” or “i,” pronounce c like s, as in “sit”: cerveza sayr-VAY-sah (beer), encima ayn-SEE-mah (atop)

g like g as in “gift” when it precedes “a,” “o,” “u,” or a consonant: gato GAH-toh (cat), hago AH-goh (I do, make); otherwise, pronounce g like h as in “hat”: giro HEE-roh (money order), gente HAYN-tay (people)

j like h, as in “has”: jueves HOOAY-vays (Thursday), mejor may-HOR (better)

ll like y, as in “yes”: toalla toh-AH-yah (towel), ellos AY-yohs (they, them)

ñ like ny, as in “canyon”: año AH-nyo (year), señor SAY-nyor (Mr., sir)

r is lightly trilled, with tongue at the roof of your mouth like a very light English d, as in “ready”: pero PAY-doh (but), tres TDAYS (three), cuatro KOOAH-tdoh (four)

rr like a Spanish r, but with much more emphasis and trill. Let your tongue flap. Practice with burro (donkey), carretera (highway), and Carrillo (proper name), then really let go with ferrocarril (railroad)

Note: The single small but common exception to all of the above is the pronunciation of Spanish y when it’s being used as the Spanish word for “and,” as in Ron y Kathy. In such case, pronounce it like the English ee, as in “keep”: Ron “ee” Kathy (Ron and Kathy).

Accent

The rule for accent, the relative stress given to syllables within a given word, is straightforward. If a word ends in a vowel, an “n,” or an “s,” accent the next-to-last syllable; if not, accent the last syllable.

Pronounce gracias GRAH-seeahs (thank you), orden OHR-dayn (order), and carretera kah-ray-TAY-rah (highway) with stress on the next-to-last syllable.

Otherwise, accent the last syllable: venir vay-NEER (to come), ferrocarril fay-roh-cah-REEL (railroad), and edad ay-DAHD (age).

Exceptions to the accent rule are always marked with an accent sign: (á, é, í, ó, or ú), such as teléfono tay-LAY-foh-noh (telephone), jabón hah-BON (soap), and rápido RAH-pee-doh (rapid).

BASIC AND COURTEOUS EXPRESSIONS

Most Spanish-speaking people consider formalities important. Whenever approaching anyone for information or some other reason, do not forget the appropriate salutation—good morning, good evening, etc. Standing alone, the greeting hola (hello) can sound brusque.

Hello. Hola.

Good morning. Buenos días.

Good afternoon. Buenas tardes.

Good evening. Buenas noches.

How are you? ¿Cómo está?

Very well, thank you. Muy bien, gracias.

Okay; good. Bien.

Not okay; bad. Mal or no bueno.

So-so. Más o menos.

And you? ¿Y usted?

Thank you. Gracias.

Thank you very much. Muchísimas gracias.

You’re very kind. Muy amable.

You’re welcome. Con mucho gusto.

Good-bye. Adios or chao.

See you later. Hasta luego.

please por favor

yes sí

no no

I don’t know. No sé.

Just a moment, please. Un momentico, por favor.

Excuse me, please (when you’re trying to get attention). Disculpe or Con permiso.

Excuse me (when you’ve made a boo-boo). Lo siento.

Pleased to meet you. Mucho gusto.

How do you say . . . in Spanish? ¿Cómo se dice . . . en español?

What is your name? ¿Cómo se llama usted?

Do you speak English? ¿Habla usted inglés?

Is English spoken here? (Does anyone here speak English?) ¿Se habla inglés?

I don’t speak Spanish well. No hablo bien el español.

I don’t understand. No entiendo.

My name is . . . Me llamo . . .

Would you like . . . ¿Quisiera usted . . .

Let’s go to . . . Vamos a . . .

TERMS OF ADDRESS

When in doubt, use the formal usted (you) as a form of address.

I yo

you (formal) usted

you (familiar) tu

he/him él

she/her ella

we/us nosotros

you (plural) ustedes

they/them ellos (all males or mixed gender); ellas (all females)

Mr., sir señor

Mrs., madam señora

miss, young lady señorita

family familia

wife esposa

husband esposo

friend amigo (male); amiga (female)

sweetheart novio (male); novia (female)

son; daughter hijo; hija

brother; sister hermano; hermana

father; mother padre; madre

grandfather; grandmother abuelo; abuela

TRANSPORTATION

Where is . . . ? ¿Dónde está . . . ?

How far is it to . . . ? ¿A cuánto está . . . ?

from . . . to . . . de . . . a . . .

How many blocks? ¿Cuántas cuadras?

Where (Which) is the way to . . . ? ¿Dónde está el camino a . . . ?

the bus station la terminal de autobuses

the bus stop la parada de autobuses

Where is this bus going? ¿Adónde va este autobús?

the taxi stand la parada de taxis

the train station la estación de ferrocarril

the boat el barco

the launch la lancha

the dock el muelle

the airport el aeropuerto

I’d like a ticket to . . . Quisiera un boleto a . . .

first (second) class primera (segunda) clase

round-trip ida y vuelta

reservation reservación

baggage equipaje

Stop here, please. Pare aquí, por favor.

the entrance la entrada

the exit la salida

ticket office boletería

(very) near; far (muy) cerca; lejos

to; toward a

by; through por

from de

the right la derecha

the left la izquierda

straight ahead directo; adelante

in front en frente

beside al lado

behind atrás

the corner la esquina

the stoplight el semáforo

a turn una vuelta

right here aquí

somewhere around here por aquí

right there allí

somewhere around there por allá

road el camino

street; avenue calle; avenida

block la cuadra

highway carretera

meter metro

kilometer kilómetro

bridge; toll puente; cuota

address dirección

north; south norte; sur

east; west este; oeste

one-way una vía

one-way up ahead una vía adelante

ACCOMMODATIONS

hotel hotel

Is there a room? ¿Hay una habitación?

May I (may we) see it? ¿Puedo (podemos) verla?

What is the rate? ¿Cuál es el precio?

Is that your best rate? ¿Es su mejor precio?

Is there something cheaper? ¿Hay algo más barato?

a single room una habitación sencilla

a double room una habitación doble

a shared room una habitación compartida

double bed cama matrimonial

twin beds camas gemelas

with private bathroom con baño privado

with shared bathroom con baño compartido

hot water agua caliente

shower ducha

towels toallas

soap jabón

toilet paper papel higiénico

blanket cobija

sheets sábanas

air-conditioned aire acondicionado

fan abanico; ventilador

key llave

manager gerente

FOOD

I’m hungry. Tengo hambre.

I’m thirsty. Tengo sed.

breakfast desayuno

lunch almuerzo

dinner cena

snack bocadillo; antojito

entrée; main course entrada; plato fuerte

dessert postre

menu carta; menú

order orden

plate of the day plato del día

the check la cuenta

glass vaso

fork tenedor

knife cuchillo

spoon cuchara

napkin servilleta

soft drink refresco

coffee café

tea té

drinking water agua pura; agua potable

bottled carbonated water agua mineral

bottled uncarbonated water agua sin gas

beer cerveza

wine vino

milk leche

juice jugo

smoothie batido

cream crema

sugar azúcar

cheese queso

eggs huevos

bread pan

salad ensalada

fruit fruta

mango mango

watermelon sandía

papaya papaya

banana banano

plantain plátano

apple manzana

orange naranja

lime limón

fish pescado

shellfish mariscos

shrimp camarones

meat carne

without meat sin carne

chicken pollo

pork cerdo

beef; steak res; bistec

bacon; ham tocino; jamón

fried frito

hard-boiled duros

scrambled picados or revueltos

over-easy tiernos

roasted asada

grilled a la parrilla

barbecue; barbecued barbacoa; al carbón

SHOPPING

money dinero

money-exchange bureau casa de cambio

ATM cajero automático

What is the exchange rate? ¿Cuál es el tipo de cambio?

Do you accept credit cards? ¿Aceptan tarjetas de crédito?

How much does it cost? ¿Cuánto cuesta?

expensive caro

cheap barato

more más

less menos

a little un poco

too much demasiado

sales tax included impuesto de ventas incluido

HEALTH

Help me please. Ayúdeme por favor.

I am ill. Estoy enfermo.

Call a doctor. Llame un doctor.

Take me to . . . Lléveme a . . .

hospital hospital; clínica

drugstore farmacia

pain dolor

fever fiebre

headache dolor de cabeza

stomach ache dolor de estómago

burn quemadura

cramp calambre

nausea náusea

vomiting vomitar

medicine medicina

antibiotic antibiótico

pill; tablet pastilla

aspirin aspirina

ointment; cream pomada; crema

bandage venda

cotton algodón

sanitary napkins use brand name, e.g. Kotex

birth control pills pastillas anticonceptivas

contraceptive foam espuma anticonceptiva

condoms preservativos; condones

toothbrush cepillo

dental floss hilo dental

toothpaste pasta dental

dentist dentista

toothache dolor de muelas

POST OFFICE AND COMMUNICATIONS

long-distance telephone teléfono larga distancia

I would like to call . . . Quisiera llamar a . . .

collect por cobrar

person to person persona a persona

credit card tarjeta de crédito

post office correos

general delivery lista de correo

letter carta

stamp estampilla, timbre

postcard tarjeta

aerogram aerograma

air mail correo aereo

registered registrado

money order giro

package; box paquete; caja

string; tape cuerda; cinta

AT THE BORDER

border frontera

customs aduana

immigration migración

tourist card tarjeta de turista

inspection inspección; revisión

passport pasaporte

profession profesión

marital status estado civil

single soltero

married; divorced casado; divorciado

widowed viudo

insurance seguros

title título

driver’s license licencia de manejar or licencia de conducir

AT THE GAS STATION

gas station gasolinera or bomba

gasoline gasolina

unleaded regular

full, please lleno, por favor

tire llanta

tire repair shop llantera

air aire

water agua

oil (change) aceite (cambio)

grease grasa

My . . . doesn’t work. Mi . . . no funciona.

battery batería

radiator radiador

alternator alternador

generator generador

tow truck grúa

repair shop taller mecánico

tune-up afinación

auto parts store venta de repuestos

VERBS

Verbs are the key to getting along in Spanish. They employ mostly predictable forms and come in three classes, which end in ar, er, and ir, respectively:

to buy comprar

I buy, you (he, she, it) buys compro, compra

we buy, you (they) buy compramos, compran

to eat comer

I eat, you (he, she, it) eats como, come

we eat, you (they) eat comemos, comen

to climb subir

I climb, you (he, she, it) climbs subo, sube

we climb, you (they) climb subimos, suben

Here are more (with irregularities indicated):

to do or make hacer (regular except for hago, I do or make)

to go ir (very irregular: voy, va, vamos, van)

to go (walk) caminar

to love amar

to work trabajar

to want desear, querer

to need necesitar

to read leer

to write escribir

to repair reparar

to stop parar

to get off (the bus) bajar

to arrive llegar

to stay (remain) quedar

to stay (lodge) hospedar

to leave salir (regular except for salgo, I leave)

to look at mirar

to look for buscar

to give dar (regular except for doy, I give)

to carry llevar

to have tener (irregular but important: tengo, tiene, tenemos, tienen)

to come venir (similarly irregular: vengo, viene, venimos, vienen)

Spanish has two forms of “to be”:

to be estar (regular except for estoy, I am)

to be ser (very irregular: soy, es, somos, son)

Use estar when speaking of location or a temporary state of being: “I am at home.” “Estoy en casa.” “I’m sick.” “Estoy enfermo.” Use ser for a permanent state of being: “I am a doctor.” “Soy doctora.”

COLORS

red rojo

pink rosado

orange naranja

yellow amarillo

green verde

blue azul

purple morado

white blanco

brown café

black negro

rainbow arco iris

NUMBERS

zero cero

one uno

two dos

three tres

four cuatro

five cinco

six seis

seven siete

eight ocho

nine nueve

10 diez

11 once

12 doce

13 trece

14 catorce

15 quince

16 dieciseis

17 diecisiete

18 dieciocho

19 diecinueve

20 veinte

21 veinte y uno or veintiuno

30 treinta

40 cuarenta

50 cincuenta

60 sesenta

70 setenta

80 ochenta

90 noventa

100 ciento

101 ciento y uno or cientiuno

200 doscientos

500 quinientos

1,000 mil

10,000 diez mil

100,000 cien mil

1,000,000 millón

one-half medio

one-third un tercio

one-fourth un cuarto

TIME

What time is it? ¿Qué hora es?

It's one o'clock. Es la una.

It's three in the afternoon. Son las tres de la tarde.

It's 4 a.m. Son las cuatro de la mañana.

six-thirty seis y media

a quarter till eleven un cuarto para las once

a quarter past five las cinco y cuarto

an hour una hora

DAYS AND MONTHS

Monday lunes

Tuesday martes

Wednesday miércoles

Thursday jueves

Friday viernes

Saturday sábado

Sunday domingo

today hoy

tomorrow mañana

yesterday ayer

January enero

February febrero

March marzo

April abril

May mayo

June junio

July julio

August agosto

September septiembre

October octubre

November noviembre

December diciembre

a week una semana

a month un mes

after después

before antes

(Courtesy of Bruce Whipperman, author of Moon Pacific Mexico.)

Suggested Reading

HISTORY AND CULTURE

Guzmán, Melissa. Living Longer, Healthier, and Happier: Recipes from Costa Rica. San José, Costa Rica, 2018. A visually stunning cookbook with basic recipes for traditional and modern Costa Rican cuisine.

Pucci Golcher, Giancarlo. Pura Gente. San José, Costa Rica: GSPG, 2021. A hardcover book that serves as a visual essay, capturing the faces, stories, and perspectives of roughly 50 Costa Ricans from all walks of Tico life.

Van Rheenen, Erin. Moon Living Abroad in Costa Rica. Berkeley, CA: Avalon Travel, 2017. A practical and detailed guide to moving to Costa Rica, written by an American expat who successfully made the jump.

LITERATURE

Ras, Barbara, ed. Costa Rica: A Traveler’s Literary Companion. San Francisco: Whereabouts Press, 1994. A compilation of 26 stories by Costa Rican writers that capture day-to-day life in Costa Rica.

NATURE AND FIELD GUIDES

Garrigues, Richard, and Robert Dean. The Birds of Costa Rica: A Field Guide. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press, 2007. A 387-page field guide to over 820 of Costa Rica’s bird species, including a color illustration and map of regions with each one.

Leenders, Twan. A Guide to Amphibians and Reptiles of Costa Rica. Miami: Distribuidores Zona Tropical, 2001. A 305-page field guide to nearly all of Costa Rica’s amphibian and reptile species, including in-depth descriptions and helpful tips for easy species identification.

Pucci Golcher, Sergio. Costa Rica Aérea: Retratos de un País Inédito. San José, Costa Rica: GSPG, 2014. A fantastic coffee-table book that features striking, colorful full-page photographs of Costa Rica as seen from above.

Pucci Golcher, Sergio. Costa Rica from Above: Landscapes Over Time. San José, Costa Rica: GSPG, 2018. The sequel to Costa Rica Aérea: Retratos de un País Inédito. Photographs in this edition predominantly feature volcanoes and beaches.

Zuchowski, Willow. Tropical Plants of Costa Rica: A Guide to Native and Exotic Flora. Ithaca, NY: Cornell University Press, 2007. A 529-page field guide to over 430 of Costa Rica’s plant species. A scientific name, a detailed description of appearance and behavior, and a color photograph or pen drawing are included with each.

Suggested Films

A Bold Peace: Costa Rica’s Path of Demilitarization. Directed by Matthew Eddy and Michael Dreiling, 2016. An English-language documentary that explores correlations between the abolition of Costa Rica’s army and happiness.

Escape to Costa Rica. 2017. A trilogy of episodes (“Connected with the Earth,” “The Jungle Story,” and “The Call of the Earth”) delves into Costa Rica’s indigenous cultures, natural environments, and vast coastlines.

Internet Resources

Many Costa Rican websites are in Spanish. However, most are enabled to work with Google Translate, which can provide quick and free translation.

TOURISM INFORMATION

Costa Rica Travel Blog

www.costaricatravelblog.com

Offers information, photographs, and personal travel stories, written by the author of this guide.

Essential Costa Rica

www.visitcostarica.com [URL inactive]

The online presence of the Costa Rican Institute of Tourism; a good starting point for first-time Costa Rica visitors.

Sistema de Información Cultural de Costa Rica (Sicultura)

https://si.cultura.cr

An online platform for discussion pertaining to Costa Rican culture. It provides cultural event listings and descriptions of traditional attractions and celebrations.

PARKS AND RECREATION

Sistema Nacional de Áreas de Conservación (SINAC)

www.sinac.go.cr

The National System of Conservation Areas is the go-to website for information regarding Costa Rica’s various government-protected lands, including national parks, biological reserves, and wildlife refuges.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

La Dirección General de Migración y Extranjería

www.migracion.go.cr

The General Directorate of Migration and Immigration is the official source of Costa Rica’s entry regulations. Check the website for up-to-date entrance requirements.

Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría

https://sjoairport.com

The official website of the Juan Santamaría International Airport provides everything you need to know about travel through Alajuela.

Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós

www.guanacasteairport.com

The official website of the Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport/Guanacaste Airport provides helpful information about travel through Liberia.

Index

A | B | C | D
E | F | G | H
I | J | K | L
M | N | O | P
Q | R | S | T
U | V | W | X
Y | Z |  |

A

accessibility: 485–487

accommodations: 471–474; see also specific location

adventure sports: general discussion 36, 38; Central Valley and Highlands 104; Guanacaste 192–193, 197–198; La Fortuna and Monteverde 127–128, 143, 157; see also zip lining

Aeropuerto Arenal (FON): 138

Aeropuerto Bahía Drake (DRK): 357

Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós/Guanacaste Airport (LIR): 184–185, 455

Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría (SJO): 71, 378, 455

Aeropuerto Nosara (NOB): 249

Aeropuerto Puerto Jiménez (PJM): 368

Aeropuerto Quepos (XQP): 323

Aeropuerto Tamarindo (TNO): 231

Aeropuerto Tortuguero (TTQ): 388–389

agoutis: 422

Agujitas: 351

air travel: 454–455, 456

Alajuela: 33, 82–89; map 83

alcohol: 202

Alcyone: 295

Anch’io Pizzeria e Ristorante: 29, 133

Andaz Costa Rica Resort at Peninsula Papagayo: 34, 206–207

Anexión de Guanacaste: 201

anteaters: 422

ants: 433

aracaris: 426

Ara Manzanillo: 42, 402–403

Arenal Mundo Aventura Ecological Park: 36, 127, 129

Arenal 1968: 130, 142

Arenal Sky Adventures Park: 29, 31, 36, 143

arts and crafts: 452–453

ATVs: 302, 463

B

backpacking: 33

Bahía Chatham: 296

Bahía Drake: 351–358

Bahía 8: 327

Bahía Murciélago: 191, 198

Bahía Wafer: 296

Bajos del Toro: 94–97

Baker’s Beach: 242, 244

Basílica de Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles: 98

bats: 420, 422

beaches: general discussion 19, 37, 42, 466; Caribbean Coast 389, 392–393, 403, 405, 407, 409, 415; Central Pacific 293, 298, 300, 313–314, 327, 331, 332, 340; Guanacaste 190, 194, 198, 205, 207, 210–213, 216, 223, 232–233; Nicoya 242, 244, 252–253, 265, 267, 272–273, 275, 277; Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific 351–352, 362, 365–366

beer/breweries: Central Pacific 335; Guanacaste 202–203, 218; La Fortuna and Monteverde 147, 166

bicycling: general discussion 463; Caribbean Coast 414; Central Valley and Highlands 104; Guanacaste 193, 217, 235; La Fortuna and Monteverde 127, 130, 139, 154; San José 55, 57

Big Dos Amigos: 295

Big Scare: 191

Bijagua: 153–155

birds/bird-watching: general discussion 41, 426–429; Caribbean Coast 377–378, 389, 390, 402–403, 405, 415; Central Pacific 309, 310; Central Valley and Highlands 105, 106–107; Guanacaste 186–187, 191; La Fortuna and Monteverde 122, 129–130, 140, 147, 148, 149–150, 154, 160, 161, 170, 171, 172; Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific 364, 366

birds of prey: 427

Black Rock: 191

Black Stallion Eco Park: 30, 178, 221, 223

Blue Falls of Costa Rica: 95

boat travel: 455, 463

Borbollones Los Teñideros: 152

border crossings: 455–456, 458–459

botanical gardens/arboretums: Central Valley and Highlands 98; Guanacaste 197

Brasilito: 208–215

Bribri people: 41, 414

Buena Vista del Rincón: 193

business hours: 489

bus travel: 455, 456–457

butterflies and moths: 432–433

C

Cachí: 100

Café Mono Congo: 35, 333

Cahuita: 409–414; map 410

caimans: 430

Callejones: 225

Caño Negro: 148–150

canyoneering: general discussion 38; Central Pacific 317; La Fortuna and Monteverde 127, 129

Carate: 366

Caribbean Coast: 36, 369–416; maps 372–373, 377, 402

Caribbean cuisine: 40, 400

Caribeans Chocolate Tour: 31, 403

Carmen: 275–285; map 276

Carrillo: 252–260; map 253

Cartago: 97–99

car travel: 457–461

CATA: 30, 229

Catarata del Toro: 94–95

Catarata Diamante: 332

Catarata El Chorro: 265

Catarata Escondida: 188

Catarata Genio: 297

Catarata Llanos del Cortés: 21, 29, 31, 180–181

Catarata Morpho Azul: 122

Catarata Río Celeste: 152

Catarata Río Fortuna: 28, 33, 120

Cataratas Calientes: 125

Cataratas La Piedra del Indio: 40, 42, 160–161

Cataratas Las Gemelas: 39, 95

Cataratas Montezuma: 21, 33, 39, 263–265

Cataratas Nauyaca: 21, 33, 35, 39, 329–331

Catedral Metropolitana: 49

Cavernas Venado: 147–148

caves/caverns: Central Pacific 331, 332; La Fortuna and Monteverde 147–148; Nicoya 244, 260, 262

cell phones: 482–483

Central Pacific: 286–340; map 290–291

Central Valley and Highlands: 75–112; map 78–79

Cerro Chato: 139

Cerro Chirripó: 38, 106–112

Cerro Chirripó trek: 109–111

Cerro de la Muerte (Hill of Death): 111

Cerro Tortuguero: 42, 390

children, activities for: 31

children, traveling with: 27, 487

Choco Café: 32, 166

chocolate: general discussion 20, 31; Caribbean Coast 403; La Fortuna and Monteverde 132, 164–165

Citrus: 35, 335

climate: 437–438

climbing: Central Valley and Highlands 110; La Fortuna and Monteverde 125

cloud forests: 94–97, 156–173, 437

coatimundis: 420

Coconutz Brewhouse: 202–203

Cocos Island: 294–297

coffee: general discussion 20, 40, 86–87, 442; Central Valley and Highlands 87; La Fortuna and Monteverde 132, 164–165, 173

Congo Trail: 216

Continental Divide: 170

Coral Gardens: 358

coronavirus: 477

Costa Ballena: 328–340

Crazy Monkey Bar: 30, 229

Crocodile Bridge: 35, 308

crocodiles: 430

Cuesta de Agua: 110

Cueva del Tiburón: 358

cultural diversity: 487–488

curassows: 429

currency: 481, 482

D

deer: 422, 424

demographics: 449–451

departure tax: 464

Desafio Adventure Company: 38, 127, 128, 129, 131, 134, 138, 143

Día de Juan Santamaría: 84

Día de la Independencia celebration: 58

Día de la Persona Negra y la Cultura Afrocostarricense: 395

Día de la Virgen de los Ángeles: 98

Diamante Eco Adventure Park: 34, 197–198

disabilities, travelers with: 485–487

diversity: 487–488

documents: 463–464

dolphins: 424–425

Dominical: 328–340; map 329

Don Rufino Restaurante: 29, 133

Dos Brazos: 364–365

Dragonfly Bar & Grill: 30, 228

E

economy: 448

ecosystems: 436–437

Edificio Central de Correos y Telégrafos: 51

El Arco: 358

El Barco: 358

El Castillo: 143, 145–146

El Chorro: 314, 316

El Estero: 225

El Jardín: 91

El Jilguero: 110

El Lagarto: 35, 319

El Mercado de Bahía Ballena: 33, 333

El Palo: 225

El Parqueo: 225

El Patio de Café Milagro: 35, 320, 321

El Remanso Rainforest Lodge: 366–367

El Salto: 131

El Silencio Lodge & Spa: 34, 95, 97

El Silencio Mirador y Senderos: 142

El Toledo Coffee: 40, 87

El Vaquero Pub: 30, 229

El Viejo Wetlands: 186

embassies: 464

emergencies: general discussion 477; Alajuela 86; Bahía Drake 356; Cahuita 413; Carmen 284; Carrillo 259; Cartago 99; Cóbano 269; Costa Ballena 337; Jacó 306; La Fortuna 137; Las Catalinas 220; Liberia 184; Malpaís 284; Manuel Antonio 323; Manzanillo 407; Monteverde 168; Montezuma 269; Neuvo Arenal 147; Nosara 248; Playa Cocles 407; Playa Flamingo 215; Playa Grande 235; Playa Hermosa 205; Playas del Coco 203; Poasito 94; Potrero 220; Puerto Jiménez 368; Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí 381; Puerto Viejo de Talamanca: 399; Puntarenas 293; Quepos 323; Sámara 259; San José 70; Santa Teresa 284; Sierpe 349; Surfside 220; Tamarindo 231; Tortuguero 388; Turrialba 105; Vara Blanca 94

Emilio’s Café: 35, 319

environmental issues: 438–441

Envision Festival: 333

Estación Biológica La Selva: 42, 377–378

Estadio Alejandro Morera Soto: 83–84

Estadio Nacional de Costa Rica: 40, 55, 57

Estadio Ricardo Saprissa Aymá: 58

etiquette: 474–475

experiences, top: 13–21

F

fábricas de carretas: 90–91

family activities: 31

farmers markets: 33

Federación de Surf de Costa Rica: 302

Feria Jacó: 33, 302

ferry travel: 463

Festival de Aves: 186

Festival de Ballenas y Delfines: 332–333

Festival de la Luz: 58

Festival Internacional de Calypso: 409

festivals and events: 475, 476

Fiesta de la Virgen del Mar: 201

Fiestas de Zapote: 40, 58

fish/fishing: general discussion 425–426; Guanacaste 198, 200, 213, 225, 227; La Fortuna and Monteverde 149

flooded roads: 462

Flora Vegan Café: 30, 228

Florblanca: 34, 284

flycatchers: 427

food/restaurants: 40, 400, 469–471; see also specific location

Freedive Costa Rica: 42, 227

frogs: 430

Frog’s Paradise: 42, 153

Fuego Brew Company: 335

fútbol: Central Valley and Highlands 83–84; San José 57–58

G

Garra de León Golf Course: 34, 213

geckos: 430

geography and geology: 435–436

gold panning: 365

golf: 34, 207, 213

golf carts: 463

Golfo Dulce: 364–368

government: 447–448

gratuities: 482

Green Room: 35, 303

The Green Spoon: 29, 133

greetings: 474–475

Guanacaste and the Northern Pacific: 41, 174–235; map 177

guans: 429

Guiones: 242

H

Hacienda Doka: 40, 87

Hacienda Guachipelín: 192–193

hanging bridges: 468–469

health and safety: 476–479

Highway 32 closures: 378

hiking: general discussion 18, 31, 33, 467–468; Caribbean Coast 390–391, 393, 405, 407, 408, 415–416; Central Pacific 296–297, 307, 309, 327–328, 330; Central Valley and Highlands 92, 95, 103, 107–111; Guanacaste 187–188, 190, 191, 193; La Fortuna and Monteverde 122, 140, 142, 152–153, 154, 160–161, 170–171, 173; Nicoya 262, 271–272, 273; Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific 352, 354, 361–362, 364

Hill of Death: 111

history: 445–447

holidays and celebrations: 475, 476

horseback riding: Central Pacific 317, 330; Guanacaste 193, 213, 221, 223; La Fortuna and Monteverde 120, 125, 154, 161, 162; Nicoya 255; Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific 364

hot springs: general discussion 34, 41, 466; Guanacaste 188, 193; La Fortuna and Monteverde 124–127, 137

Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe: 348–349

Hummingbird Gallery: 160

hummingbirds: 427, 429

I

Iglesia de Orosí: 101

Iglesia La Agonia: 179

iguanas: 430, 432

Indigenous reserves: 40, 150, 414, 450–451

insects and arachnids: 432–433

internet access: 483

Isla Chora: 254

Isla Damas: 20, 35, 39, 310, 312

Isla Pájaros: 186–187

Islas Catalina: 30, 38, 198, 200, 217

Islas Mortero: 274

Islas Murciélago: 30, 38, 191, 194, 198, 200

Isla Tortuga: 273–274

itineraries: 28–42

JKL

Jacó: 33, 298–307; map 299

Jaguar Rescue Center: 401–402

Jardín Botánico Lankester: 98

Jardín de Paz: 57

kayaking/canoeing: Caribbean Coast 389–390, 393, 405; Central Pacific 312, 314, 331, 340; Guanacaste 198, 216, 217; La Fortuna and Monteverde 125, 128–129, 143, 149; Nicoya 254–255, 273, 274

kinkajous: 420

La Casona: 191

La Cuevita: 262

La Fortuna: 16, 18, 28–29, 36, 38, 39, 41, 120–139; maps 121, 124

La Fortuna and Monteverde: 113–173; map 116–117

La Fortuna Waterfall: 120

Lago Arenal: 138, 143–148; map 144

Lago Cachí: 101

Laguna Azul: 152

Laguna Botos: 92

Lake Arenal Jungle Resort & Brewery: 147

La Liga: 83

La Lora: 277

La Luna: 35, 320

language: 452

La Pared: 217

Lapa Ríos: 34, 366

La Paz Waterfall Gardens: 39, 92–93

La Piedra del Indio: 161

La Punta: 217

La Purruja: 225

Las Catalinas: 215–220

Las Olas: 225

La Ventana: 170

La Viuda: 217

LGBTQ travelers: 488–489

Liberia: 179–185; map 180

Lidia’s Place: 40, 396

Life for Life Sea Turtle Conservation Project: 42, 354, 356

Liga Deportiva Alajuelense: 83

lighthouse: 293

liquor terminology: 202

Little Hawaii: 225

Lizano sauce: 469

Lizard Lounge: 30, 229

lizards: 432

Llano Bonito: 110

Los Perdidos: 125

Los Quemados: 110

Los Sombreros: 217

Luna Lodge: 367

M

macaws: 426–427

Maleku people: 150

Malpaís: 275–285; map 276

mammals, land: 418–424

Manuel Antonio: 32, 34, 35, 310–328; maps 311, 315

Manzanillo: 401–407

maps and tourist information: 489–490

marimba: 453

Marina Flamingo: 208

Marina Papagayo: 207

marinelife: 424–426

Matapalo: 366

measurements: 489

Mercado Central (San José): 40, 60, 61

Mercado de Bahía Ballena: 33, 333

Mes Histórico de la Afrodescendencia Negra en Costa Rica: 395

Mi Lugar: 35, 319

Mirador Colada: 140

Mirador de Orosí: 101

Mirador Osa: 364

Mirador Ujarrás: 101

Mirador Volcán Arenal: 142

Miro’s Mountain: 298

Miss May Point: 408

Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park: 28, 39, 120, 122, 130

money: 481–482

monkeys: 418–419

Monkey Trail: 216

Monteverde: 16, 30, 32, 36, 39, 40, 156–173; map 158–159

Monteverde Brewing Company: 166

Monteverde Extremo: 36, 162

Monteverde Orchid Garden: 160

Montezuma: 263–274; map 264

Monumento a los Héroes: 191

Monumento Nacional: 57

Monumento Nacional Guayabo: 40, 103

motmots: 429

Museo de Arte Costarricense: 55

Museo de Arte y Diseño Contemporáneo: 54

Museo de Ciencias Naturales La Salle: 55

Museo del Jade: 40, 52

Museo del Oro Precolombino: 40, 51–52

Museo de Numismática: 52

Museo Histórico Casona de Santa Rosa: 191

Museo Nacional de Costa Rica: 40, 52, 54

Museo Postal, Telegráfico y Filatélico: 51

NO

National Surfing Championship: 302

Nauyaca Waterfalls Nature Park: 330

Nicoya Peninsula: 38, 39, 41, 236–285; map 239

Nogui’s: 30, 228

North Guionees: 246

Nosara: 16, 242–249; map 243

Nuevo Arenal: 146–147

Ocaso Underground Music Festival: 227

Ocean Course at Peninsula Papagayo: 34, 207

Ojochal: 328–340

olingos: 420

Ollie’s Point: 30, 38, 194–195

100% Aventura: 36, 162

The Open Kitchen: 32, 165

Orchid Coffee: 32, 165

Orchid Garden: 120

Organic Paradise Tour: 42, 379

Orosi: 100

Orquesta SinfoNicoyaa Nacional: 58

Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific: 38, 39, 41, 341–368; maps 344, 346–347

oxcart factories: 90–91

P

pacas: 422

packing tips: 479–481

Palo Seco: 225

Pangas Beach Club: 30, 229

Paquera: 297

Paraíso (Isla del Caño): 358

Paraíso (Valle de Orosi): 101

Parque España: 57

Parque Metropolitano La Sabana: 57

Parque Morazán: 57

Parque Nacional (San José): 57

Parque Nacional Barra Honda: 42, 260–263

Parque Nacional Cahuita: 31, 414–416

Parque Nacional Carara: 31, 35, 41, 307, 309

Parque Nacional Chirripó: 38, 106–112

Parque Nacional Corcovado: 18, 39, 41, 359–363

Parque Nacional Isla del Coco: 38, 294–297

Parque Nacional Los Quetzales: 107

Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio: 31, 34, 35, 39, 325, 327–328

Parque Nacional Marino Ballena: 33, 35, 338–340

Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas: 223, 232

Parque Nacional Palo Verde: 29, 41, 185–187

Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja: 187–190; map 188

Parque Nacional Santa Rosa: 38, 190–191, 194–195

Parque Nacional Tortuguero: 41, 389–391

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal: 31, 33, 39, 139–140

Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú: 99–102

Parque Nacional Volcán Poás: 90–92

Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio: 29, 150, 152–153

parrots: 426–427

Paseo de los Turistas: 293

Paseo Peatonal Amor de Temporada: 197

Paso de Moisés: 338, 340

passports: 25, 463

Peace Lodge: 34, 93, 94

peccaries: 422

Pelada: 242, 246

Peninsula Papagayo: 29, 206–207

philanthropy for travelers: 486

phones: 482–483

planning tips: 22–27

plants: 442–445

Playa Arrecife: 37, 405

Playa Avellanas: 42, 224

Playa Biesanz: 37, 314

Playa Blanca: 37, 415

Playa Brasilito: 212

Playa Cabo Blanco: 272

Playa Cangrejal: 252

Playa Carmen: 275

Playa Carrillo: 37, 252–253

Playa Chiquita: 42, 405

Playa Cocalito (Bahía Drake): 351

Playa Cocalito (Montezuma): 265

Playa Cocles: 401–407

Playa Colonia: 340

Playa Colorada (Bahía Drake): 351

Playa Colorada (Montezuma): 265

Playa Conchal: 30, 37, 210, 211–212

Playa Cuevas: 277

Playa Cúru: 272

Playa Danta: 216

Playa Dantita: 216

Playa del Coco: 198

Playa Dominical: 332

Playa Espadilla Norte: 316

Playa Espadilla Sur: 35, 327

Playa 506: 33, 406

Playa Flamingo: 30, 37, 208–215; map 209

Playa Gandoca: 407

Playa Garza: 42, 244

Playa Gemelas: 327

Playa Grande (Guanacaste): 232–235; map 233

Playa Grande (Manzanillo): 405

Playa Grande (Montezuma): 265

Playa Guiones: 242, 244

Playa Hermosa (Guanacaste): 37, 204–205, 208

Playa Hermosa (Jacó): 42, 298–307

Playa Hermosa (Santa Teresa): 277

Playa Jacó: 300, 301

Playa Langosta: 223

Playa Las Manchas: 37, 265, 267

Playa Los Suecos: 37, 277

Playa Malpaís: 277

Playa Manuel Antonio: 35, 37, 327

Playa Manzanillo: 405

Playa Montezuma: 265

Playa Nacascolo: 37, 207

Playa Naranjo: 194, 297

Playa Negra (Cahuita): 409

Playa Negra (Puerto Viejo de Talamanca): 393

Playa Negra (Tamarindo): 42, 224

Playa Ocotal: 198

Playa Pelada: 37, 244

Playa Platanares: 365–366

Playa Playitas: 313

Playa Potrero: 216

Playa Potrero Grande: 194

Playa Preciosa: 365–366

Playa Prieta: 207

Playa Puerto Viejo (Playa Flamingo): 30, 37, 210, 211, 212

Playa Puerto Viejo (Puerto Viejo de Talamanca): 392

Playa Punta Uva: 405

Playa Quesera: 272–273

Playa Sámara: 37, 252

Playa San Josecito: 42, 351–352

Playa Santa Teresa: 275, 277

Playas del Coco: 195–204; map 196

Playa Tamarindo: 30, 223

Playa Tortuguero: 389

Playa Tropical: 37, 274

Playa Uvita: 35, 37, 340

Playa Ventanas: 35, 233, 331

Playa Virador: 207

Plaza de la Cultura: 49

Poasito: 92–94

politics: 447–448

Potrero: 215–220

Potrero Brewing Company: 218

Proyecto Asis Wildlife and Sloth Rescue Center: 29, 31, 122, 124

public art, in Jacó: 301

Puerto Jiménez: 42, 364–368; map 365

Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui: 377–382

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca: 391–401; map 393

punctuality: 475–476

Punta Cahuita: 415

Punta Catedral: 314

Punta Manzanillo: 408

Punta Mona: 408

Punta Murciélago: 277

Puntarenas: 292–297; ferry crossings 297; map 294–295

Pure Trek: 38, 129

QR

Quepos: 34, 310–328; maps 311, 312

quetzals: 427

racial diversity: 487–488

rafting: general discussion 21, 36, 465–466; Caribbean Coast 379, 382–383, 386, 393, 394–395, 413; Central Pacific 314, 316; Central Valley and Highlands 105; Guanacaste 181; La Fortuna and Monteverde 127, 128, 169

Rainforest Chocolate Tour: 31, 132

rainforest resorts: 366–367

Rancho La Merced: 333

Rancho Maleku Tafa Uríjíf: 150

Rancho Toji Jifuru: 150

Rastas: 392

rays: 425

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Curú: 272–273

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo: 407–409

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Mixto Caño Negro: 29, 41, 148–150

Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Ostional: 41, 250–251

reggae: 392

religion: 451–452

rental cars: 457

reptiles and amphibians: 430–432

Rescate Wildlife Rescue Center: 31, 82–83

Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Monteverde: 33, 169–172

Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso de Santa Elena: 18, 32, 39, 172–173

Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño: 38, 358–359

Reserva Biológica Tirimbina: 378–379

Reserva Curi-Cancha: 171

Reserva Indígena Maleku: 40, 150

Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco: 271–272

resources: 491–501

Rica Freedivers: 42, 317

Río Balsa: 128

Río Celeste: 29, 152, 154

Río Chollin: 131

Río Frío: 148

Río Matapalo: 234

Río Montezuma: 264

Río Naranjo: 314, 316

Río Negro Hot Springs: 41, 193

Río Nosara: 242

Río Orosí: 101

Río Pacuare: 21, 28, 36, 128, 382–384, 394

Río Peñas Blancas: 128, 129

Río Reventazón: 128, 395

Río Sarapiquí: 128

Río Savegre: 314, 316

Río Sierpe: 348

Río Tárcoles: 308

Río Térraba: 348

Ristorante e Pizzeria Tramonti: 32, 165–166

roads, flooded: 462

romantic sites and adventures: 34

Romería de la Virgen de los Ángeles: 98

Room 2 Board Hostel: 33, 305

Ruinas de Santiago Apóstol: 98

Ruinas de Ujarrás: 101

S

Safari Surf School: 42, 246, 440, 486

safety: 476–479

sailing: general discussion 34; Central Pacific 314; Guanacaste 201, 213, 227

Salón Dorado: 55

Salsa Brava: 394

Sámara: 31, 34, 252–260; maps 253, 254

San Gerardo de Dota: 41, 106–107

San José: 33, 43–74; maps 46–47, 50, 54

San José Cantina Experience: 33, 66

San Lucas Treetop Dining Experience: 32, 166

Santa Elena: 156–173; map 158–159

Santa Teresa: 16, 275–285; map 276

Santo Rosario de la Luz: 98

Saprissa: 58

Sarchí: 90–91

scenic drives: general discussion 34; Central Valley and Highlands 100–101, 111; La Fortuna and Monteverde 146

scorpions: 433

scuba diving/snorkeling: general discussion 38, 42, 466–467; Caribbean Coast 393, 405, 415; Central Pacific 295–296, 314, 316–317, 340; Guanacaste 191, 194, 198, 200, 213, 216, 217, 227; Nicoya 253, 254–255, 267, 273, 274; Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific 358–359

Sea Turtle Conservancy: 385–386

sea turtles: general discussion 41, 42, 424, 425, 467; Caribbean Coast 385–386, 390; Nicoya 250–251; Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific 354, 356

Seleccción Nacional: 55, 57

Selina Manuel Antonio: 33, 322

Selvatura Park: 156–157

Sendero Accesible: 122

Sendero Acceso Universal: 307

Sendero Aguas Termales: 188, 190

Sendero Arboretum: 271

Sendero Bosque 1968: 142

Sendero Bosque Encantado: 190

Sendero Bosque Nuboso: 170

Sendero Camino: 170

Sendero Caño Negro: 173

Sendero Caragra: 103

Sendero Catarata La Cangreja: 187–188

Sendero Chatham-Wafer: 296

Sendero Colada 1968: 142

Sendero Congo: 328

Sendero Costero: 42, 352, 354

Sendero Danés: 271

Sendero del Bajo: 173

Sendero de Observación de Aves: 122

Sendero El Canto del Agua: 103

Sendero El Cedral: 362

Sendero El Ceibo: 140

Sendero El Gavilán: 390

Sendero El Manglar: 327

Sendero El Mirador (Barra Honda): 262

Sendero El Perezoso: 327

Sendero El Tigre: 362

Sendero Encantado: 173

Sendero Finca de los Monos: 273

Sendero Indio Desnudo: 191

Sendero Jaguar: 390

Sendero La Ceiba: 262

Sendero Lago Danta: 153

Sendero Laguna Botos: 92

Sendero Laguna Meándrica: 309

Sendero Las Aráeas: 309

Sendero Las Cavernas: 262

Sendero Las Coladas: 140

Sendero Las Pailas: 187

Sendero Los Crestones: 111

Sendero Los Laureles: 262

Sendero Los Miradores: 140

Sendero Los Montículos: 103

Sendero Los Patos: 191

Sendero Los Saínos: 142

Sendero Matapalo: 262

Sendero Miradores (Manuel Antonio): 328

Sendero Morpho: 190

Sendero Mundo Jóven: 173

Sendero 1968: 142

Sendero Pailas de Agua Fría: 190

Sendero Playa Espadilla Sur: 327, 328

Sendero Playa Gemelas: 327, 328

Sendero Principal (Cahuita): 415–416

Sendero Principal (Místico Arenal Hanging Bridges): 122

Sendero Principal (Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo): 408

Sendero Principal (Volcán Irazú): 101

Sendero Principal (Volcán Poas): 92

Sendero Principal (Volcán Tenorio): 152–153

Sendero Principal San Gerardo: 110

Sendero Puerto Escondido: 328

Sendero Punta Catedral: 328

Sendero Quebrada Bonita: 309

Sendero Quesera: 273

Sendero Río Genio: 297

Sendero Sirena: 362

Sendero Sueco: 272

Sendero Tororoi: 140

Sendero Valle Naranjo: 191

Sendero Wilford Guindon: 170–171

Sendero Youth Challenge: 173

senior travelers: 489

sharks: 425

shuttle services: 463

Sierpe: 348–351

Sitio Museo Finca 6: 349

sloths: 418

snakes: 432

soccer: Central Valley and Highlands 83–84; San José 57–58

Soda Buffet El Estero: 30, 33, 228

Soda Kawe: 40, 410

Soda La Palma: 29, 132–133

Soda Víquez: 29, 33, 133

songbirds: 429

Spanish-language schools: 483

spectator sports: general discussion 40; Central Valley and Highlands 83–84; San José 57–58

spiders: 433

Springs Resort & Spa: 29, 34, 41, 125

stand-up paddleboarding: Central Pacific 312, 314, 316; Guanacaste 216, 217, 227; La Fortuna and Monteverde 127, 143; Nicoya 254–255

Suck Rock: 277

sugar cane: 164–165

surfing: general discussion 16, 31, 38, 42, 466–467; Caribbean Coast 394; Central Pacific 300–302, 313, 316, 332; Guanacaste 194–195, 223–225, 233–234; Nicoya 244, 246, 255, 277, 279–280

Surfside: 215–220

sustainable tourism: 439–441, 471–473

T

Tabacón: 34, 41, 125, 137

TABÚ: 30, 229

Take It Easy: 40, 405

Taller Eloy Alfaro e Hijos: 91

Tamarindo: 16, 29–30, 33, 221–232; map 222

tapirs: 419

Tapir Valley: 42, 153–154

taxes: 464, 482

taxi transportation: 461

Teatro Nacional de Costa Rica: 40, 51, 58

telephones: 482–483

Terciopelo Cave: 262

Terraza: 300

Tilarán: 146–147

time zone: 489

tipping: 482

Tortuga: 198

Tortuguero: 20, 384–391; map 385

toucanet: 426

toucans: 426

tourist information/tourist offices: 489–490

tours, traveling with: 461

transfer services: 462

transportation: 454–463

The Tree: 300

Treetopia Park: 31, 32, 36, 157, 160, 161–162

trekking: 38, 107–111; see also hiking

trogons: 427

Tulin: 300

Turrialba: 97, 102–105

turtles: see sea turtles

UV

Ujarrás: 100

Uvita: 328–340; map 334

vaccinations: 25, 464

Valle de Orosi: 34, 100–101; map 100

Valle Escondido: 171

Vandará: 41, 42, 193

Vara Blanca: 92–94

Villa Vanilla: 42, 313

VIP Night Tour: 33, 66

visas: 25, 463–464

Volcán Arenal: 28, 41, 139–140

Volcancito: 187

Volcán Irazú: 31, 99–102

volcanoes: 31; see also specific volcano

Volcán Poás: 31, 89–97

Volcán Rincón de la Vieja: 41, 187

Volcán Tenorio: 150, 152–153

volunteering: 483–485

WXYZ

waterbirds: 429

waterfalls: general discussion 21, 31, 33, 34, 39; Central Pacific 297, 317, 329–331, 332; Central Valley and Highlands 92–93, 94–95; Guanacaste 180–181, 187–188, 190, 193; La Fortuna and Monteverde 120, 122, 125, 127, 129, 152, 160–161; Nicoya 263–265; Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific 362

water taxis: 463

weather: 437–438

weights and measures: 489

whales: 424–425

Whale-Tail Sandbar: 338, 340

The White House: 334

white-water rafting: see rafting

wildcats: 419–420

wildlife/wildlife-watching: general discussion 14, 37, 39, 41, 417–433; Caribbean Coast 377, 378, 385–386, 389, 390, 401–402, 407, 415, 416; Central Pacific 307, 308, 310, 314, 317, 340; Central Valley and Highlands 82–83, 92–93; Guanacaste 186, 187, 191, 194, 207, 213, 232; La Fortuna and Monteverde 122, 125, 131, 148, 149, 153–154, 160, 170, 172; Nicoya 250–251, 253, 273; Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific 348, 352, 360, 361, 364; see also birds/bird-watching; sea turtles

Witch’s Rock: 30, 38, 194–195

Wolaba Parade: 395

women travelers: 487

yoga: 246, 267, 277, 279, 280

zip lining: general discussion 16, 31, 34, 36, 465; Caribbean Coast 394; Central Pacific 316; Guanacaste 193, 197; La Fortuna and Monteverde 127–128, 129, 143, 157, 161–162; Nicoya 253–254, 267, 280

Acknowledgments

To Ricky—my husband, travel companion, business partner, heroe, and best friend—thank you for your unconditional love. Without complaint, you contributed long workdays and sleepless nights to the development of this book, all because one of your dreams is to see me fulfill one of mine. I’m grateful for your energy and optimism, your passion for exploration, your knowledge of nature and wildlife, your photography skills, and the Tico heart and soul you gave to this book. I’m the luckiest person in the world.

I’m indebted to my professional family at Hachette Book Group and Avalon Travel, especially senior acquisitions editor Vy Tran for her openness to collaboration, publishing technologies manager Darren Alessi for making the guide a visually appealing read, and senior cartographer John Culp for his attention to detail. I appreciate the outstanding work that other team members—past and present—have poured into previous editions of the book, especially that of editors Leah Gordon, Rachael Sablik, and Kathryn Ettinger, cartography director Kat Bennett, and graphics coordinator Lucie Ericksen. Your talents continue to shine in the fourth edition. Special thanks to former acquisitions editor Nikki Ioakimedes for recruiting me to write for Moon, to members of the marketing and publicity departments for promoting Costa Rica travel to the world, and to the entire team for making me feel welcome from day one of our collaboration.

To my mom: Thank you for believing in me always, all ways, and for teaching me to dream big. To my dad: Thank you for instilling in me the drive to succeed and the determination to see things through. To my sister, brother-in-law, and friends: I appreciate your patience and understanding while work and travel commitments monopolized my time. Your unwavering support means more to me than you will ever know.

To my Costa Rican family: Your invaluable traditions and teachings grace the pages in this book and continue to enrich my life. Thank you for accepting me as a foreigner and loving me like a daughter, sister, and aunt. I am a proud Tica at heart and feel honored to write about your country.

Keeks, Gabriel, Clay, Marianita, Kar, Ángel, Moni, Kjos, Fabián, Ben, and Josie: There are purposes to life that only you can fulfill. Seek them then serve them to the best of your abilities and that will forever be enough. Thank you for filling my downtime with infinite joy and bursts of laughter.

To Ricky’s and my network of faithful Costa Rican friends and colleagues: Thank you for the facts, figures, stories, updates, and jovial camaraderie. You contributed substantial detail to this book and made researching fun and memorable.

To past and present Pura Vida! eh? Inc. clients, Costa Rica Travel Blog readers, and DIY Costa Rica members: Thank you for sharing your Costa Rica experiences with me. They informed my own travels and made this book a compilation of lessons learned.

To all Ticos who embody pura vida and cherish Costa Rica’s precious land, water, and wildlife: Thank you for recognizing what makes your country beautiful and unique. Your blissful spirit and eco-friendly mindset are the travel souvenirs I wish for every Moon Costa Rica reader.

List of Maps

Front Maps

Costa Rica: 2–3

Surf, Snorkel, and Dive Sites: 4–5

Waterfalls and Volcanoes of Costa Rica: 6–7

Welcome to Costa Rica

chapter divisions map: 23

San José

San José: 46–47

Central San José: 50

East San José: 54

Central Valley and Highlands

Central Valley and Highlands: 78–79

Alajuela: 83

Road-Tripping Around the Valle de Orosi: 100

La Fortuna and Monteverde

La Fortuna and Monteverde: 116–117

La Fortuna and Vicinity: 121

La Fortuna: 124

Lago Arenal and Vicinity: 144

Monteverde and Santa Elena: 158–159

Guanacaste and the Northern Pacific

Guanacaste and the Northern Pacific: 177

Liberia: 180

Rincón de la Vieja: 188

Playas del Coco and Vicinity: 196

Playa Flamingo and Vicinity: 209

Tamarindo: 222

Playa Grande: 233

Nicoya Peninsula

Nicoya Peninsula: 239

Nosara and Vicinity: 243

Sámara and Carrillo: 253

Sámara: 254

Montezuma and Vicinity: 264

Santa Teresa, Carmen, and Malpaís: 276

Central Pacific

Central Pacific: 290–291

Puntarenas: 294–295

Jacó: 299

Manuel Antonio and Quepos: 311

Quepos: 312

Manuel Antonio: 315

Dominical and Vicinity: 329

Uvita: 334

Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific

Osa Peninsula and the Southern Pacific: 344

Osa Peninsula: 346–347

Puerto Jiménez: 365

Caribbean Coast

Caribbean Coast: 372–373

Caribbean Inlands: 377

Tortuguero: 385

Puerto Viejo de Talamanca: 393

Southern Caribbean: 402

Cahuita: 410

Wildlife Guide

Turtle Nesting Sites: 425

Photo Credits

All photos © Nikki Solano, except page 9 © Ricky Solano; Ricky Solano; (bottom) Ricky Solano; click here © Exploradores Outdoors; click here © (top) Exploradores Outdoors; click here © Olga Topp | Dreamstime.com; click here © (top) Anky10 | Dreamstime.com; click here © (bottom) DiegoFiore | Dreamstime.com; click here © (top) Louis Michel Desert | Dreamstime.com; page 63 © (top) Ricky Solano; page 69 © (top left) Ricky Solano; page 76 © (top right) Ricky Solano; page 96 © (bottom) Ricky Solano; click here © Ricky Solano; click here © Jarib Gonzalez | Dreamstime.com; click here © Ricky Solano; page 151 © (bottom) Ricky Solano; page 181 © (top left) Ricky Solano; page 192 © Ricky Solano; page 210 © Ricky Solano; page 218 © (right middle) Ricky Solano; page 261 © (bottom) Ricky Solano; page 265 © (top left) Ricky Solano; (bottom left) Ricky Solano; (bottom right) Ricky Solano; click here © Ricky Solano; page 303 © (bottom) Ricky Solano; page 307 © Ricky Solano; click here © Ricky Solano; page 317 © (top) Ricky Solano; page 354 © (right middle) Ricky Solano; page 380 © (top right) Ricky Solano; page 417 © Ondřej Prosický | Dreamstime.com; page 421 © (bottom) Hotshotsworldwide | Dreamstime.com; click here © Jhvephotos | Dreamstime.com; page 428 © (top left) Ricky Solano; (bottom left) Ricky Solano; (bottom right) Ricky Solano; click here © Ondrejprosicky | Dreamstime.com; page 445 © (top left) Ricky Solano; (top right) Ricky Solano; page 473 © Ricky Solano; page 487 © Ricky Solano

MOON COSTA RICA

Avalon Travel

Hachette Book Group, Inc.

555 12th Street, Suite 1850

Oakland, CA 94607, USA

www.moon.com

Editor: Vy Tran

Managing Editor: Hannah Brezack

Copy Editor: Ann Seifert

Graphics and Production Coordinator: Darren Alessi

Cover Design: Toni Tajima

Interior Design: Avalon Travel

Map Editor: John Culp

Cartographers: John Culp, Erin Greb

Proofreader: Megan Anderluh

Indexer: Greg Jewett

ISBN-13: 979-8-88647-101-4

eISBN: 979-8-88647-103-8

Printing History

1st Edition — 2019

4th Edition — July 2025

5 4 3 2 1

Text © 2025 by Nikki Solano.

Maps © 2025 by Avalon Travel.

Some photos and illustrations are used by permission and are the property of the original copyright owners.

Hachette Book Group, Inc. supports the right to free expression and the value of copyright. The purpose of copyright is to encourage writers and artists to produce the creative works that enrich our culture. The scanning, uploading, and distribution of this book without permission is a theft of the author’s intellectual property. If you would like permission to use material from the book (other than for review purposes), please contact permissions@hbgusa.com. Thank you for your support of the author’s rights.

Front cover photo: Arenal volcano from a farm in Monterey © rob_knight_ink / Getty Images

Back cover photo: red eyed tree frog © Dirk Ercken | Dreamstime.com

Avalon Travel is a division of Hachette Book Group, Inc. Moon and the Moon logo are trademarks of Hachette Book Group, Inc. All other marks and logos depicted are the property of the original owners.

All recommendations, including those for sights, activities, hotels, restaurants, and shops, are based on each author’s individual judgment. We do not accept payment for inclusion in our travel guides, and our authors do not accept free goods or services in exchange for positive coverage.

Although every effort was made to ensure that the information was correct at the time of going to press, the author and Hachette Book Group, Inc. do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by any information or recommendations contained in this book, including any errors or omissions regardless of whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident, or any other cause.

Hachette Book Group, Inc. is not responsible for websites (or their content) that are not owned by Hachette Book Group, Inc.

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