Lock Picking for Beginners and Intermediates

A Comprehensive Up-To-Date Visual Guide to Lock Picking Simplified for Beginners and Intermediates

Introduction

What would you do if a child or an old lady is stuck behind a locked door in distress, desperately seeking help, with no obvious way of opening that door?

Maybe you could break in, depending on how reinforced the locking system is. But consider for a minute that it is a time-sensitive incident, and breaking in is not an option.

Lock picking is one of those survival skills that the school never teaches, which is handy in incidences that no one prepares for. On average, picking a lock should take 9 seconds to 45 minutes. That is a lot faster than most countries' emergency response time.

Besides helping people in distress, lock picking can be a hobby, a locksmith's profession, or a helpful skill in case of an accidental lockout.

This book is a carefully crafted manual to solve the mystery of lock picking. In this guide, you shall learn about different locks, how they work, and lock-picking from the most basic to intermediate level. You will also learn a few basic information about key control and the golden rule of lock-picking.

Sound interesting? Read along and take notes.

Table of Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1: Understanding Locks

The Pin Tumbler

Types of Locks

Chapter 2: Lock Picking Tools and Supplies

Lock Picks

Tension Wrench

Plug Spinner

Shim Tool

Lock Jigglers

Electric Lock Pick Guns

Lock Lubricant

Bump Keys

Key Extractors

Lock Picking Set

Chapter 3: Lock Picking Techniques

Scrubbing and Raking

Single-Pin Picking

Lock-Picking Rule of Tension

Chapter 4: How to Pick Locks

How to Shim a lock

Picking a Lock Using a Pickgun

Picking a Spring Doorknob Lock

Picking a Push Button Doorknob

Picking a Pin Tumbler Lock

Picking a Pin Tumbler Lock With a Paper Clip

How to Open an ABUS 55/50 Brass Padlock

Picking a Lever Handle Lock

Picking a Master Lock

Picking a Lock That Needs a Plug Spinner

Picking a Combination Lock

Picking a Car Lock

Picking a Deadbolt Lock

Picking a Disc Detainer Padlock

Picking a Wafer Lock

Chapter 5 – Common Lock Picking Mistakes and How to Remedy Them

Ignoring Minor Changes Across Different Types of Locks

Using Too Much Tension

Having No Variation

Inconsistency

Conclusion

References

Chapter 1: Understanding Locks

Locks come in different shapes, sizes, and attributes. Even though frequently forgotten, locks are so important, and understanding how they operate and how to go about them is as important as the things we lock behind them.

Like many other things, the way locks are made has evolved since 2000 BC when the first tumbler lock in Egypt was used to create the innovative Wi-Fi-operated lock today. Even after all those years, most locks still work on the same mechanical principle called the pin tumbler design, making it easy to learn and apply.

To understand the lock better, let's quickly look at this mechanism.

The Pin Tumbler

The pin tumbler lock design was an ancient eastern invention more associated with the Egyptians, Greeks, and Iranians that followed European modification to become the modern-day lock. The lock operated on the same principle today, only different in the material used.

The pin tumbler comprised a sizable wooden bolt that fastened the door by punching through the door by the side and holding it together so as not to move. Small holes were made in the door's surface, punching through the door and the wooden bolt inside. A keyway was made in the wooden bolt, and a set of wooden pins were attached to the door assembly positioned to slide into these holes and secure the bolt. The key was a big wooden bar with a shape akin to a toothbrush; instead of bristles, it had upright pegs lined up with the door holes and pins. The key was inserted into the huge keyway beneath the vertical pins and lifted, allowing the bolt with the key inside to be slid back to unlock the door, as illustrated in the image below:

[i]Figure 1: Image credit: Adobe

The lock we use today is an advancement of the pin tumbler lock that, over time, the Romans improved to build bronze keys and metallic locks. A lot of ingenuity was employed by shaping the pins and cutting keys so that a key could open only the right lock to avoid people opening other people's locks.

In 1848, Linus Yale Senior invented the cylindrical pin tumbler design, which was later improved by his son Yale Junior in 1861 to form the modern-day cylinder locks used today. Below is the image of a modern-day pin tumbler:

[ii]Figure 2: Image credit: Adobe

Different technological advancements gave rise to different types of locks that are in existence today. Since you really never know which type of lock you might end up needing to pick when the need arises, it is critical that you understand the different types of locks inside out – their anatomy and their inner working mechanism so that you can effectively bypass the locking systems to unlock them.

Let's learn more about the types of locks next.

Types of Locks

There are several types of locks, but most fall under the following main categories:

Padlock

Deadbolt lock

Mortise locks

Cam lock

Smart locks

Besides all of these locks having different shapes and applications, they all apply the pin tumbler principle. However, modern technology and the need for more efficiency have evolved, creating two more mechanisms: disc and lever tumbler. These other mechanisms are discussed later in the book.

1.    Padlock

[iii]Figure 3:Image credit: Vector Stock

Padlocks are the most common locks, especially for storage sheds or security boxes; they can be detached entirely from the door latch once opened. The padlock operates on the cylinder pin-tumbler design and is known to be the oldest of the modern locks.

Padlocks come in two forms:

✓       One operated using a key.

✓       The second uses combinations to lock or open.

A padlock is locked by pushing the U-shaped metal bar called a shackle into the lock body. When opening it, the key or combinations operate by aligning the pins in the cylinder to release the shackle.

Let's learn more about this as we discuss the anatomy of padlocks and their working mechanisms.

Anatomy of the Padlock and its Locking Mechanism

[iv]Figure 4: Image credit: Adobe

Padlocks have a noticeable shape that consists of a U-shaped shackle metal bar and a metal casing that the shackle tacks into to lock. The shackle is attached inside the casing on one side. It gets in and out on the other end of the casing to lock.

A notch is visible inside each side of the shackle when the padlock is unlocked. This part prevents the shackle from being pulled out.

A cylindrical part with a hole is on the back side of the padlock. It comprises the cylinder, which has the locking mechanism and the keyway. The image below shows the cylinder and the keyway:

[v]Figure 5: Image credit: iStock

The highlighted cylindrical figure at the back of the padlock houses the plug, which extends inwards to form the locking mechanism. This plug is the beginning and the only visible part of the padlock's locking mechanism from the outside.

The padlock's locking mechanism is a mystery that can only be understood by looking at the inside of the padlock casing.

The plug is a long cylindrical bar with a keyway that extends inside the padlock and is separated from the lock body by a thin intersecting space called a shear line. Inside the keyway, several other holes are drilled horizontally and organized in a straight line, each to intersect with the keyway at a right angle.

A small cylinder bar called the key pin, rests inside each of those tiny holes. Within the housing of the lock, tiny chambers extend to align with the holes of the plug. The chambers are packed with tiny springs and a cylinder bar for each chamber called driver pins that push the key pin to stay in place.

[vi]Figure 6:Image credit: Shutterstock

An extra chamber is drilled in the housing on top of the chambers with driver pins that extend to align with a groove mark on the plug. This chamber also has a spring and a pin that extends to secure the plug by the groove so that it does not slide out when the padlock is upside down.

Normally, the key pins are built in different sizes, slightly smaller than the length of the holes they are held in. The variance in size allows the driver pins from the housing chamber to extend inside the plug with the help of the tiny springs to hold the plug in position so that it does not rotate freely.

When you insert the right key, the profile of the key cutting pushes the key/bottom pins up and down so that the top of the pins line up with the shear line. The aligning of the top of the key pins creates a release of the plug (barrel) from the padlock housing, which allows the plug to rotate freely.

The locking mechanism does not end there.

The second phase of the locking mechanism starts when the plug is released from the housing. At the far end of the plug, the unlocking process that triggers the release of the shackle starts with the rotation of the plug. At this end, the plug finishes with a part called a cam that operates like a lever and is surrounded by two latches.

[vii]Figure 7: Image credit: Shutterstock (Image showing a cam)

[viii]Figure 8: Image credit: iStock (Image showing a latch)

These two latches are attached to the cam by an extending metal called an arm on each side. Between the latches, a spring sits that pushes the latches outwards. The outer end of the latches has angled edges that are forced by the spring into the notches of the shackle mentioned earlier.

When the right key is entered through the keyway, it aligns the key pins with the shear line, allowing the plug to rotate. As a result, the plug rotates the arms of the latches with the help of the cam. This rotation forces the latches to retract inwards by pushing the spring; when the latches retract inwards, they initiate a release from the shackle's notch on both sides and let the shackle pop open.

Look at the image below:

[ix]Figure 9: Image credit: CDNA

2.    Deadbolt Lock

[x]Figure 10: Image Credit: iStock

This type of lock operates using a key that directly drives a bolt attached to the end of the locking mechanism. The mechanism locks by rotating the key clockwise to drive the bolt into a hole drilled into the door frame. The key is rotated in the anticlockwise direction to release the shaft from the hole for the lock to open.

Anatomy of the Deadbolt Lock and its Locking Mechanism

[xi]Figure 11: Image credit: iStock

The functionality of a deadlock lock is similar to that of a padlock but without the shackle.

The deadbolt lock can be divided into two: external and internal parts.

These parts include the cylinder, deadbolt, strike plate, face plate, cylinder, and knob, among others.

The operation of the deadbolt lock starts from the cylinder. The cylinder harbors the keyway, which features the plug, pins, and cam.

The plug is the part that rotates freely when the right key is inserted through the keyway. Inside the plug, several cylinder bars of different sizes called lift pins are organized in a row in small holes. This small hole extends inside the cylinder casing to form small chambers in which similar cylinder bars called top pins are arranged and tightly engaged by small springs to secure the lift pins from retracting.

When the right key is inserted in the keyway, the profile of the key matches the lift pins. The key pushes the top pins, which transfers the push to the top pin. The springs atop the top pin retract, allowing the top pins to settle inside the cylinder chambers. The key pins are made in different sizes such that when the right key is inserted, the lift pins settle perfectly between the key profile and the top of the plug. The lift pins settle inside the plug perfectly so that the plug is detached from the cylinder casing. When this happens, the plug is released from the top pins and can rotate freely.

The plug rotates the cam to drive the deadbolt in a lever mechanism. The cam instantly pushes the shaft and extends outwards to secure the door by the strike plate on the door frame. When the key is rotated in the opposite direction, the cam drives the arm, and the shaft retracts to unlock.

3.    Mortise Lock

[xii]Figure 12: Image credit: iStock

Mortise lock is a popular lock that has stood the test of time. It is considered more secure than other locks owing to the materials used to build it. Mortiselock is built using heavy metal, and the size and weight of the said heavy metal components allow it to withstand physical abuse while ensuring it has a long shelf life. Because of its durability and reliability, mortise lock is commonly used in commercial spaces like offices and homes.

Mortise locks come in different models and sizes. Due to that diversity, the internal parts might differ in appearance and arrangement, but they all use the same mechanism. Due to their long lifespan, the locks are designed to make them easy to replace and service. Even then, this type of lock is considered "most immune," meaning picking and breaking it will not be that easy.

Anatomy of a Mortise Lock

[xiii]Figure 13: Image credit: iStock

Mortise lock is cleverly concealed inside the door, and only a few parts can be seen from the outside for maximum security from physical breakage. Mortise locking is a complex mechanism that compounds several small levers and springs that are preassembled and put inside a pocket called a mortise. Parts such as the door handle, cylinder, latch, and deadbolt can be seen from the outside.

Inside a metal casing, the locking mechanism's internal parts are concealed and secured inside the door wood. Other parts, such as the forend, rose, and escutcheon, might not have dire significance in the locking mechanism, but they are crucial in keeping the locking parts in place.

The forend holds the lock by securing it on the door side using bolts. It makes sure that the lock does not come off the door easily. The escutcheon holds the removable cylinder in place to ensure it does not come off with the key when unlocking, while the rose is responsible for securing the handle.

Mortise lock operates on two levels of locking, each of which interacts with the mortise locking mechanism. The handle is the locking trigger, and it directly drives the latch. The latch then initiates the primary locking system, which is the second level of locking, with the help of the mortise levers.

The deadbolt is the second level of the locking operation. The latch has two purposes in the mortise lock. The initial function of the latch is to secure the door. Once the door is secure, the latch then activates the deadbolt to keep it locked. In the mortise lock, the cylinder is only useful when unlocking the door from the outside and has very little input in locking the door.

While the cylinder is responsible for unlocking the door from the outside using the key by releasing the deadbolt, the handle allows users to lock and unlock the door from inside the house while at the same time blocking unauthorized users from opening the door.

Handle and Latch

[xiv]Figure 14: Image credit: Adobe

The handle is responsible for driving the latch to secure the door, which initiates the primary locking mechanism, which is the cylinder locking mechanism.

The handle lever mechanism works by having two handles on either side of the door lock. These two handles are connected by a square metal bar called a spindle that runs through the door's locking system from the outside to the inside. The spindle is not a continuous metal bar but two metal bars connected at the center, and each bar can rotate individually. The idea behind having separate bars is for each bar to rotate individually to allow the inside handle to lock or unlock separately when the outside handle stays put.

Below is an image showing a spindle:

[xv]Figure 15: Image credit: Freepik

The spindle connects to the locking hub inside the locking mechanism, forming the lever-locking system. The locking hub is a flat metal bar with a square hole in the center that secures the spindle. Each of the two spindle bars has an independent locking hub.

Usually, the two hubs are placed on top of each other so that the spindle goes through the two of them. Each spindle bar is then secured on its designated hub on the side of the lock. The image below shows the two hubs aligned together:

[xvi]Figure 16:Image Credit: Freepik

Separating the two locks is necessary because the outer lock has to be connected to the mortise lever system through the horizontal bar shown in the image below:

The connection between the outside hub and the mortise levers uses several springs to initiate the deadbolt lock. The connection to the mortise lever stops the outside locking hub from rotating when the deadbolt lock is engaged. The idea is to stop the outside handle from rotating to open the door without a key.

The locking hubs are then connected to the latch, which is responsible for driving it in and out. The latch is a long metal bar secured inside a big spring that protrudes outside the lock casing. When the handle is rotated, the locking hub pulls the latch bolt inwards and retracts from the door frame.

The handle locking mechanism is a complex locking system that serves an important function in initiating the entire locking system of the mortise lock. On the other side, the deadbolt lever is the primary security system of the mortise lock. The handle lever is only used to secure the door, while the deadbolt lever is the locking system with a more complex mechanism.

The Deadbolt

[xvii]Figure 17: Image credit: iStock

The deadbolt forms the primary locking mechanism of a mortise lock. Unlike other locks, the deadbolt in a mortise lock remains uninterrupted until the latch is engaged. When the door is closed, the handle is rotated clockwise to retract the latch inwards; the door is then pushed against the door frame to close. Upon closing the door, the handle is released, and the latch spring automatically pushes the latch bolt to pop out and fasten the door by the door frame.

At this stage of closing the door, something unique happens that does not happen in other locks. A small metal bar comes into play to initiate the second level of the locking mechanism.

When the door is closed and the latch has extended outwards to fasten it, the outside locking hub is moved to receive the locking bar between its legs.

With the help of a return spring, the locking bar transfers that energy to the deadbolt and triggers it to pop outside to lock.

When closing the door from inside, it is hard to initiate the second level of locking automatically since the inside hub does not engage with the locking bar. In that case, a thumb-turn is placed to rotate and drive the deadbolt out to lock the door. Below is an example of a thumb-turn.

[xviii]Figure 18: Image credit: iStock

The Cylinder

[xix]Figure 19:  Image credit: iStock

The cylinder of the mortise locks operates on the pin tumbler mechanism to drive the deadbolt of the mortise lock. A mortise cylinder has threading on the outside (the threading looks like screw threading). So, to open a mortise lock, you will have to rotate the key or picking tool till the corresponding grooves on the lock body get threaded.

While the rotation happens, you will note that with mortise cylinders, only the lock body rotates, which will be an advantage since you do not have to worry about the other side of the door (with most cylinders, everything moves while picking the lock which makes the whole process more challenging).

The mortise tailpiece is always flush against the back of the lock and has a circular shape. The cylinder also has a small rectangle coming out. What happens is the circular section gets fastened onto the cylinder, so when the plug rotates, the rectangle's end moves and the door unlocks.

4.    Cam Locks

[xx]Figure 20: Image credit: Vecteezy

Cam locks are L-shaped locks that have a cylindrical key nut and a cam (also called a tongue bar). It also comprises a latch and a body that rotates when closing and opening. To understand more about cam locks, discussing their anatomy and how they work is important.

Anatomy of a Cam Lock

A cam lock is made up of two main parts that are relevant to this guide:

●     A metal plate, also called the cam

●     The barrel, which is around 20mm in length

The cam is attached to the edge of the barrel and rests on the object being locked. On the other hand, the barrel rests on the outside. As we have already discussed, when you turn the key, the cam, which is also known as the metal plate or tongue bar, drops to the side or turns vertically. If the tongue bar drops to the side, the cam lock will lock, but if it turns vertically, the cam lock will open.

Let's go deeper.

Cam locks rely on the concept of pin and tumbler alignment to work. Specifically, this is what happens:

The first step is inserting the right key. Once the key is inserted into the lock cylinder, its notches align with the cylinder's tumbler and pin arrangement.

Once you turn the key, the tumblers or pins are pushed within the cylinder's lock. As soon as pins turn to the correct size, the inner and outer cylinders align, the cylinder and the cam attached to the cylinder freely rotate, and the lock opens.

Once the key is turned back to step 1, the tumblers or pins go back to their original position, which blocks the cylinder's rotation. So, when the cylinder is blocked, the cam doesn't turn, which locks the lock.

You will find cam locks with tubular keys. These keys have a tubular lock and an independent deadbolt and latch, so identifying them is easy.

[xxi]Figure 21: Image credit: Pngtree

As you can see from the image above, the key is round, with a hole that looks like a ring and a metallic cylinder around it. Inside, the tumblers or pins are pushed horizontally, which is different from the ordinary tumbler and pin alignment, where the pins move vertically.

The key notches should fit the keyway hole and align to insert the key. After you insert the key, the cylinder is allowed to turn. Then, the driver pins and key pins will be pushed at the front of the lock, which stops the plug from rotating. Also, when the key correctly fits in the slits between the driver pins and the key, the key/tumbler pins that align them to the shear plane and indentations separate the plug/barrel from the outer casing or the shell. This allows the lock to rotate/turn.

5.    Smart Locks

[xxii]Figure 22: Image credit: Adobe

Smart locks are electromechanical locks designed to lock and unlock when they receive prompts from biometric sensors, access cards, WiFi, Bluetooth, registered mobile devices, or electronic keypads.

Smart locks work the same as the standard locking mechanism. The difference is instead of controlling the door manually, you will do so electronically. So, with smart locks, the mechanical lock, the digital key, and the interface are relied upon to provide access control! With an agreement that the smart lock itself is an electronic device, it is important to note that this lock requires a power supply (battery), so expect a small, hidden battery compartment included in the lock's anatomy.

With this train of thought in mind, let us look deeper at what is found in a smart lock.

Anatomy of a Smart Lock

[xxiii]Figure 23: Image credit: iStock

The smart lock includes:

Battery Case

As we mentioned earlier, this is the compartment that is tasked to store the batteries.

Emergency Charging Port

This port will help you recharge the batteries if they are rechargeable, or in some instances, it will help keep the whole electrical section of the lock on.

Mechanical Keyhole

Mechanical keyholes are for standard keys. Using a key with smart locks might seem unnecessary, but they serve as backup entry methods just in case any of the smart lock's electronic components fail, or you experience a power outage.

Handle

Most, if not all, smart lock handles have biometric authentication properties, which are useful because they allow you to unlock the door through facial recognition, fingerprint, or other biometric choices and not anyone else who does not have your permission.

You can use a card reader, fingerprint reader, and touch keypad to open and close the lock.

Waterproof Rubber Pad

This pad protects the lock from water damage.

Since this guide is all about lock picking, it is important to note that you need to know how a smart lock was assembled when picking it. Past the keypad, for example, you will find a deadbolt. The deadbolt hardware is installed, and then the keypad touchscreen follows. The interior mounting plate is then attached to the keypad, or an old one is fitted with a converter, which helps it fit into the keypad touchscreen. Knowing this is essential because you might need to work on this hardware after removing the keypad.

Having learned about the different types of locks you will encounter during your lock-picking experience, the next step will be getting your tools ready. Let us do this in the next chapter.

Chapter 2: Lock Picking Tools and Supplies

Lock Picks

[xxiv]Figure 24: Image credit: Freepik

[xxv]Figure 25: Image credit: Adobe

Picks will help you bind the driver pins behind the lock's shear line, which, when the final pin is pushed down, the shear plane gets out of the way, and the lock opens. There are many lock picks in the market, but the following are the most important ones:

Note: You can buy them as a set from Amazon or any other store.

•       Hook Pick

As the image above shows, this pick has a curved end. The curved end points upwards into an arc/hook shape. This kind of shape is important because it helps push pins upwards into their chamber. Specifically, it pushes the single/top driver pin beyond the lock's shear line.

You will first push another tool known as a tension wrench inside the lock, then slide in your pick and push it up till you identify the pin that is hard to move.

Using the hook, you force the pin up until your lock produces a clicking/snapping sound. You will use this pick on the other hard-to-move pins till all are done. From there, your tension wrench will do its job.

Hook picks come in different lengths and sizes. However, the following are the most common ones:

1)   Short Hooks

This pick is mostly used for locks that have narrow keyways or top-of-keyway tension (this is a type of tension that uses a TOK tension wrench, which demands that you pick the lock by using the top of the keyway as compared to the bottom of the keyway tension that targets the bottom of the keyway).

2)   Gonzo Hooks

This type of hook has impressive geometry – with it, you can place your pins precisely and use more or less force depending on how stubborn the locks are.

3)   Gem Hooks

A gem hook resembles a gonzo hook, but the difference is that a gonzo hook has a cut tip. This type of hook has an extended tip that becomes very handy when dealing with heavy-ish warding, locks that have radical bitting, or/and when dealing with paracentric keyways.

•       Rake Pick

This pick has several spikes or curves; others have bumpy, jagged, or spiky bits that closely resemble a key's teeth. These features will help you push multiple pins with just one motion. So, if you want to save time, this is the pick to use! However, use this type of lock-pick on locks requiring low tension because high-tension locks have pins that trap the pick or may break it.

To use this pick, you will have to use two lock-picking techniques: rubbing and scrubbing, but this depends on the kind of rake you will be using (rake picks come in different designs). If you decide to scrub, you will insert your rake pick and then yank it forth and back in an upward and downward motion. If you do it correctly, your pick will drive the lock's driver pins all the way beyond the lock's shear line, one by one, as you continue working on your lock.

•       Diamond Pick

This type of pick has either a triangular or diamond bit. With this pick, you can push one pin, opposite pins, or rake multiple pins at a go. Diamond picks are used the same way regular picks are used – you will insert the pick and push it upwards (this will push the driver pins past the shear points). You can also use the rocking or scrubbing technique to rake the pins and push multiple pins upwards.

•       Ball Picks

Also known as snowman/double ball pick, half snowman/double half-pick, or half ball pick, ball picks have a circle or a half-circle tip that makes them less versatile for picking average locks. Ball picks are effective because they push pins upwards in two directions (this is specifically for the full ball pick). To pick a lock with a ball pick, you will push it into your lock and then move the driver/top pins beyond the shear lines.

Tension Wrench

[xxvi]Figure 26: Image credit: Shutterstock

This tool will help you apply pressure to the bottom of pin tumbler locks. With this pressure, the pins will be kept down by the springs. So, when picking a tumbler lock, the tension wrench will be the first to go into your lock. Inside the lock, the tension wrench will create a tiny ledge, also known as a shear line, allowing you to use your pick tool.

Plug Spinner

[xxvii] Figure 27: Image credit: Dreamstime

A plug spinner, also called a lock plug spinner, is a tool that will help you do what the name suggests: spin the plug, which is also known as the lock's keyway. With a lock plug spinner, you can change the direction of the lock from the wrong way to the right way, that is, from right to left or vice versa, without the pins springing back into the plug.

This tool will save time. In many instances, you will pick a lock only to realize that you have tensioned it from the wrong side. As much as you can pull the pick from the plug, re-tension it in the proper direction, and continue working, the plug spinner will save you from all this trouble.

Shim Tool

A shim tool is a lock-picking tool that is made from a thin spring steel. A shim tool will fit in the hasp's contour by pushing its "tongue" into the area between the u-bar(where your lock snaps into) and the lock. You will then push the shim as much as it can and turn it to open the lock.

Note that the shim tool works on locks with the abovementioned gap.

Lock Jigglers

[xxviii]Figure 29: Image credit: Shutterstock

In simple words, lock jigglers are skeleton keys that use a pick and some tension to open locks. With lock jigglers, you do not have to pick each pin separately; they are picked together. So, you will insert the jiggle into the lock, give it a jiggle and a waggle, move it in and out a couple of times, turn it left and right, shake it, and suddenly, the lock will open.

Electric Lock Pick Guns

[xxix]Figure 30: Image credit: Shutterstock

An electric lock-pick gun is an automated tool with several pick heads. Once the gun is on, it can snap a lock, making it easier to unlock.

Lock Lubricant

[xxx]Figure 31: Image credit: Shutterstock

Water, snow, rain, humidity, and frost are a lock's worst enemies because they may cause some corrosion. Lock lubricants will help remove the corrosion, thus making it easier for the pins to move.

Bump Keys

As the name suggests, these are keys, too. The difference between these keys and the standard keys is that bump keys are custom-cut with a specific design that allows lock-picking of pin tumbler locks.

You can purchase bump keys from stores such as Amazon, among others.

Key Extractors

These are specialized bunches of lock picks that are like screwdrivers.

Do you remember a time that a key broke off in a lock? Do you remember how hard it was to remove the small pieces stuck inside?

Well, that is where this tool saves the day. So, with this scenario in mind, we can comfortably say that a key extractor will help you remove broken key pieces that have been left inside your locks.

You can purchase key extractors from Amazon or local stores.

Lock Picking Set

As you advance in lock picking, you will come to see that every new lock will be a new puzzle. To be prepared for these new puzzles, get a boxed set. Although lock pick sets are different, they come with picks of different sizes and thicknesses, tension wrenches, lock picking books, picking accessories, skeleton keys, lock jigglers, plug spinners, lock rakes, tension tools, and electric pick guns, among others.

With these tools, you are now ready to begin working on your locks. However, before you do this, you should get acquainted with a few lock-picking techniques to help you make the process easier and more efficient.

Let us discuss this in the next chapter.

Chapter 3: Lock Picking Techniques

Scrubbing and Raking

Scrubbing is probably one of the most popular lock-picking techniques because you can use it with almost all types of lock picks.

With scrubbing, you will only apply tension to the lock. Once tension is applied, the binding effect that will be produced will force the pin to bind one after the other. This, therefore, means that the force exerted on the pins will be sufficient to overpower the drag caused by the binding, all without overpowering the binding pin past the cylinder's shear line. So, when one pin sets, the binding force gets transferred to the pins that follow in the binding order.

To begin the scrubbing process, you will first ensure that the lock has no security pins. Below is an example of a security pin:

[xxxi]Figure 35: Image credit: Dreamstime

You might ask yourself, "Why should I ensure the lock has no security pins?"

Well, it is because security pins are a more modified version of drivers or key pins in pin-tumbler locks that are made in a way that makes manipulation of the said locks more challenging. Security pins are designed specifically to be pick/manipulation proof.

So, with locks that have security pins, the driver pin is set in such a way that it is prevented from reaching the shear line if the plug is under tension. Linus Yale Jr created the first security pin. His invention saw a notch sliced into the top/driver pins, which means that the top pins were meant to "catch" on the lock's shear line in case tension was used to lift the plug.

Below is an example of a Yale lock:

[xxxii]Figure 36: Image credit: Shutterstock

When the top driver pin is lifted with high tension in a lock with security pins, it rubs against the plug's wall 'til the notch gets the lock's shear line, causing it to snag. The snag stops the pin and fools you into believing it is set at your lock's shear line (in this case, the pin will be under-set, also known as 'false-setting').

The best way to know if you are dealing with a lock that has a security pin is to insert the key and turn it slightly. The turning will help you preliminary feel the lock's pin arrangement. So, when the plug is turned without the correct key being inside, and you notice that the driver pins contacting the lock's shear line are not rotating, you are dealing with a lock with security pins.

After you confirm that the lock has no security pins, you will insert the pick right under the pins and ensure that it is parallel to the bottom of the keyway. Once at this juncture, ensure you do not lift any pins because you might interfere with the whole process.

Next, begin to gently sew your scrubbing back and forth, all while maintaining very light tension. Continue sewing, but this time, begin raising the pick upwards in the keyway as slowly as you can - so as you scrub forward, gradually lift the pins higher and do the same while scrubbing backward/outwards.

After a minute or so, the lock should have opened, but if it did not, seesaw your pick. So, you will still follow the back-and-forth movement, but this time, you will incorporate a back-and-forth tilt. The incorporation of this new scrubbing technique helps set the pins that might be out of reach while your pick is aligned on the horizontal plane.

For Raking, a lock picking technique mostly used to open wafer and pin tumbler locks using wafer rakes/"auto jigglers" or standard rakes, you will still be brushing over the pins, but this time, you will incorporate an up and down motion.

Raking allows you to check multiple pins at once. It is probably one of the best lock-picking methods for beginners because it is easy to control and easy to learn. The rake is designed to sweep the cylinder's pins instead of dealing with one pin after the other.

To rake a lock, the first thing to do is insert the wrench and pick it into the lock, then feel for the plug (you will feel for it using the tension wrench). Here, you will feel the pins' positions and press one pin to test its spring tightness.

Single-Pin Picking

SP picking technique is much slower than scrubbing and raking. You will manipulate and set one pin after the other with single-pin picking. Yes, the single-pin picking technique is not as fast as you could expect, but once you are accustomed to it, you will notice that it is more reliable and proficient.

The first step to being efficient with single-pin picking is being intentional about the tension you will use, which brings us to…

Lock-Picking Rule of Tension

Applying the right tension while picking any lock will require you to factor in several things, such as:

•       Bouncing

Bouncing helps you know how much-fixed pressure should be applied to a pick as the pick moves down and up in the lock.

So, with bouncing, the resistance of the lock pins is essential; why? It is because you can learn how picks bounce and if they bounce correctly from the said resistance.

The best way to hold a pick is by having it in a way that pressure comes from the wrist or fingers and not from the shoulder or elbow because these two have no dexterity. Another way of ensuring that bouncing happens as it should is to use three of your fingers. Two fingers will provide a pivot point, and the third will lever the pick, which will provide the tension.

You can also hold the pick like a pencil. Here, the wrist will provide the tension. However, note that if you choose this technique, ensure that the elbow and shoulder provide the force required to move the pick out of and in the lock.

Using these tips and getting used to how the pick bounces up and down is best felt while scrubbing a lock because here, you will feel the pins rattle as the pick moves. Last but not least, with regards to bouncing, you need to ensure that you focus on the tip of your pick and not how the handle is moving. This is because the tip of the pick targets the pin individually and not the other parts of the pick.

•       Picking Pressure

Picking pressure is another important aspect of picking locks. To apply the right pressure, especially as a beginner, first do it when drawing the pick out of the lock being picked, and then, after you master this, apply pressure as the pick moves inwards.

Let us try to visualize this.

Do you see the flat side of the pick?

Use that side to push down on the pin from the first one and then move on to the next. Then, apply an amount of pressure that is just enough to help you overcome the spring force. The spring force will increase as the pin is pushed down.

Once at the end, push down the pick as you pull it out. This will help you master picking the lock both ways. Remember, the pins will spring back as your pick goes past them, so notice and memorize the sound that will be created. Also, notice the springy feel that will happen as your pick tool pushes down on the pin.

•       Picking Torque

Torque is defined as the twisting force which causes rotation. In lock picking, the torque you will use should be enough to overcome the friction caused by the plug rotation. So, use a torque wrench to rotate the plug and continue rotating it until it stops. While rotating the plug, note how much torque is required before the pins bind. To help you get a better feel for this, use the pick's flat side, then apply enough torque to make the pins stay down. You can also use a torque wrench that has a twist, but note that you might have some challenges holding more than a few pins down.

For example, for padlocks, the minimum torque is mostly the force of a spring that is linked to the plug.

•       Set Pins

[xxxiii]Figure 37: Image credit: Adobe

Another way you can know how much pressure, tension, or torque you should use is by identifying which pins are set. To tell a set pin, identify the pin that gives a slight give: the pin that you can successfully push down with minimal pressure but becomes hard to move once it gets pushed down. In addition, a set pin will have its springs back up slightly after removing the slight give. Last but not least, set pins produce a rattle sound if flicked with a pin.

After mastering how to leverage the power of torque, pressure, and tension, continue doing the same thing with all pins until the lock opens. Your goal should always be to set all the lock's pins; when you hear a click, that's a sign that you are doing well.

With these few techniques, you are now ready to pick different types of locks. Let's do this in the next chapter.

Chapter 4: How to Pick Locks

You can pick locks in many ways, but all these depend on the tools you use. Therefore, we will first learn how to pick locks using the tools we have listed in the previous chapter:

How to Shim a lock

Materials Required:

A lock shim

Steps to Follow:

First, determine if the padlock is single or double-latched. To do this, slide one shim inside the shackle's pivot leg. This should help you feel for a latch. Use a shim that fits with the shackle's diameter. If the shim tool is too big or small, there is a chance that it will not slide down the shackle.

After you insert the shim, rotate it around the shackle. This way, the shim's tongue comes into contact with the latch from the side. This will disengage the locking mechanisms.

Finally, pull the shackle of the lock, and you are done!

Picking a Lock Using a Pickgun

Note that your standard pick relies on your 'feeling' so as to set the pins, but the pick gun, also known as a snap gun, relies on the law of physics to burst the driver pins out of the lock's cylinder all without sending any bottom pins upwards to it.

The snap gun will strike all the bottom pins at once, and then the bottom pins will transfer their kinetic energy to the pins on top. Remember, all this will be happening without penetration of the lock's housing.

The following are the steps you need to follow if you plan to open a lock using a pickgun.

Steps to Follow:

Insert the gun's needle into the lock's keyway.

Insert a tension wrench, but use light tension.

Squeeze the gun's trigger, which will then cock the mechanism, which in turn lets the needle drop.

Pull the trigger further. This will release the internal hammer, which in turn will force the needle to snap upwards.

For a moment, the top pins will be thrown upwards, the shear line will impede the shell and the plug, and the tension you have applied on the tension wrench will force the plug to turn, thus opening the lock!

Picking a Spring Doorknob Lock

[xxxiv]Figure 38: Image credit: ImageFX

Materials Required:

Credit card: Use a less important credit card, such as an old rewards card, since the card may end up damaged.

Steps to Follow:

First, take the credit card and slide it between the doorframe and the door. Ensure that the sliding happens where the doorknob is because the aim is to release the lock's latch.

Push the credit card forward, and then move it up and down. Ensure to force the latch into the lock.

As you push and move the card up and down, try turning the knob. After a while, you will be able to push the catch right into the door, which will allow it to open.

Picking a Push Button Doorknob

[xxxv]Figure 39: Image credit: Freepik

Materials Required:

1 Wire coat hanger

1 Paperclip

Steps to Follow:

First, determine which kind of doorknob you are dealing with. Mostly, you will find doorknobs inside buildings on bathroom doors, and such door knobs are designed for one simple task; privacy. You will also find these doorknobs in hotels, but these ones are somewhat different because they open with a key.

Push the wire coat hanger or paper clip into the keyhole. When you do this, you will feel some pressure, specifically on the other end. When you push it, the lock should open because it should pop the button on the other side of the door.

You can also pick a door knob with bobby pins, specifically two hairpins.

Let's find out how.

Materials Required:

2 bobby pins

A pair of Pliers

Steps to Follow:

Bend the bobby pin to make an L shape. Ensure that the bobby pin is open and the ends are 90 degrees. Be careful while bending because the metal might crack.

Remove the plastic ends. You can use a pair of pliers for this or scrape them off with a knife.

Then, bend the second hairpin to 70 degrees and remove its ends. This hairpin is essential because it will be your lever pin. It will be the guide for the lock pick we have just created, which is important because it will help you turn your lock when its pins are all pushed into the right place.

Slide in the closed end of the lever pin in your lock, then use the other end as the handle to help grip and turn it.

Slide in the lock-pick in the keyhole and push it in until you locate a pin.

Turn the lock-pick's arced end at an angle of 40 degrees so it moves upwards. This is important because, in this position, the pick will push the lock's pins without any challenges.

As you push the lock pick in the keyhole, do so in an up-and-down motion. The aim is to feel each pin and locate a "seized" pin, which you will notice does not move as easily as the other pins. While doing this, continue applying pressure to the lock and use the lever bobby pin we made.

Move your lock pick up and down, pin after pin, until you hear a click sound. Remember, the click sound is from the moving barrel. Basically, it moves slightly to the side, preventing the lock from being secured.

After you set one pin, the others will be seized, so you must work on the other pins. Remember to move up and down gently.

Once you finish working on all the pins and have felt each one's click, add some pressure on the lever, which is the second bobby pin we made, and with that, the lock will open!

If the lock does not open even after following all the steps, it may be because one of the pins might have been pushed too high, so you must let the pin fall down, and you will do this by easing down on the lever's pressure. However, note that if you release some pressure on the lever, the other pins might fall, which means you will have to start the whole process again.

You can also open the same door knob with a tension wrench if the tools we have discussed so far are not available.

How?

Materials Required:

1 L-shaped tension wrench

1 Rake pick

1 Hook pick

Steps to Follow:

First, get an L-shaped tension wrench, slide its short end into the keyhole, and apply some pressure. Note that you do not need all your fingers to do the turning; a few fingers will do it. However, if you need more pressure, do not be afraid to do it.

Just like we did with the bobby pin method, use the torque wrench, and the lock picks on the keyhole. Slide the rake lock pick to apply gentle pressure in the keyhole using the raking technique, which will involve wiggling in an in-and-out and up-and-down motion. Note that you need to keep rotating with the tension wrench, one pin after the other, until the doorknob opens!

You can use a hook pick if you do not have a rake pick. How? Slide the hook pick in the keyhole just above the wrench. Ensure that the hook pick faces upward. Just like a bobby pin, use the hook pick in an up-and-down motion on each pin until you hear a click sound. Keep turning the tension wrench; after a short while, the pins will line up, and the door will open!

Picking a Pin Tumbler Lock

[xxxvi]Figure 40: Image credit: iStock

Materials Required:

Lock picking tool

1 Tension wrench

Steps to Follow:

The first thing to do is to visualize what will be happening. Visualize the five spring-mounted pins and the set of pins below these five spring-mounted pins.

Slide in the tension wrench right at the bottom of the pin tumbler's keyhole, and then apply pressure. Remember always to use the right amount of tension. The lower pins will drop down with the right tension, and the spring-mounted pins will stay in place.

Also, use the right amount of torque. The right amount of torque will allow the lock pick to line up all the pins at the top of the keyhole.

Move the lock-picking tool in and out or back and forth, also known as raking or scrubbing. This will coax the pins, which will make them line up correctly. Note that it might take some time for the lock to open using this technique because pin tumbler locks are different, but do not give up. After a while, you will feel the pins line up, and when you turn the tension tool as required, the lock will open up.

Picking a Pin Tumbler Lock With a Paper Clip

Materials Required:

2 Paper clips: Note that paper clips might break, so it is essential to be careful.

Steps to Follow:

The only thing to do here is to follow the steps we followed while opening a pin tumbler lock with a lock pin and tension wrench. Once done, the lock will or should open!

So, you will slide the tension wrench right into the bottom of the pin tumbler's keyhole and then apply pressure. With the right amount of tension, the lower pins will drop down, and the spring-mounted pins will stay in place. Next, you will move the paperclip in and out or back and forth, also known as raking or scrubbing. Finally, you will feel the pins line up, and when you turn the paperclip as required, the lock will simply open!

How to Open an ABUS 55/50 Brass Padlock

Materials Required:

Two tension wrenches

1 Hook pick

Steps to Follow:

First, slide in both tension wrenches right at the bottom edge of the keyhole.

Determine which way you want the cylinder to be turned. The best way to do this is by using the tension wrench. Take the tension wrench and try to turn the cylinder counterclockwise, then clockwise. When you do this, you will note that the cylinder will only turn some distance and then stop turning. This will signal that the cylinder is being turned the wrong way. However, if the movement continues, then it means that the cylinder is being turned the right way.

With the direction determined, apply torque using the two tension wrenches, then slide the pick into the keyhole, specifically the upper keyhole.

Press upwards on every single pin until you identify the pin that is hardest to push upwards. Once you identify that specific pin, push it upwards till you hear a click. Once you hear the click, it then means that the pin has been set.

Repeat these steps for the other five pins. Remember always to apply the right amount of torque so that the pins you had set do not drop pack downwards.

Once you work on the last pin, the lock will finally open!

Picking a Lever Handle Lock

[xxxvii]Figure 43: Image credit: ImageFX

Materials Required:

1 Tension wrench: It will be better if you have a tension wrench that opens letterbox locks.

1 Hook pick

Steps to Follow:

Insert a hook pick in the keyhole.

Try feeling what is going on inside the lock. The aim is to know or have an idea of how many levers are in the said lock. Generally, the lever lock should have anywhere between three to five levels.

After the levers are identified, remove the pick.

Insert your tension wrench into the lower keyhole, then locate the bolt's notch.

After the tension wrench is set, turn it counterclockwise or clockwise until the bolt stops turning. Immediately, hold the bolt in its position using a tension wrench. Remember to do this with moderate tension.

Insert the hook pick again, then push it upwards one lever after the other until you identify the lever that is hardest to lift. Once you identify the lever, lift it slowly until the bolt moves and the lever halts.

Do this for all other levers.

Once all levers are set, turn the bolt using the tension wrench, and your lock will open!

Picking a Master Lock

Materials Required:

1 rake pick

1 tension wrench

Steps to Follow:

First, slide the shorter side of a tension wrench to the master lock's keyhole bottom. The aim is to apply light tension. Specifically, the tension you will use must be light, so light that it applies a slight rotational force like the key. Note that the tension should be light because if you apply too much tension, the pins might be bound up too much that they will not move. Secondly, the tension should be on the tension wrench during the whole process. Failure to keep this tension on the tension wrench will cause the set pins to drop back into the lock's plug, which means you will have to start the process all over again.

After the tension wrench is inside the lock, inserting the raking pick is the next step. Ensure that the rake is just above the keyway and the tension wrench. Then, you will push the rake pick all the way in until it hits the lock's back wall, and then you will lift it up against the pins slowly.

Scrub the pins back and forth. You can also tweak the angle of the scrubbing to different angles until the tension wrench gives in and the master lock opens.

The lock might not open. So, after you do the above steps but the master lock remains locked after 15 seconds, reset the master lock. You can do this by releasing the pins and then reapplying the tension. You can decide either to apply a little less force or more force.

You can get a paper clip if you do not have the rake pick or the tension wrench. Specifically, you will need two paper clips; one which will be your lock pick and another which will be your tension wrench.

Once you get the paper clips, follow the steps below to open your master lock:

First, turn one paperclip into a lock pick. To do this, straighten the larger side of the paper clip, then bend its tip downwards to an angle of 90 degrees using your hands or a pair of pliers.

Next, forge minor curves to create a rake. You will do this by bending the tip of the paper clip up and down until you get two or three spikes.

Make a tension wrench using the other paper clips. To do this, straighten out the middle of the paper clip and then crimp its large side. Note that the tip should be as small and tight as possible.

Stick the end of the crimped end of the paper clip and slide it into the master lock's keyway, then bend it to an angle of 90 degrees.

Once done, use the steps we went through when using a tension wrench and a rake pick, and you will be done!

Picking a Lock That Needs a Plug Spinner

You will need a plug spinner when you pick a lock using one of the different ways we have and will discuss in this chapter, but it fails to open because the core has not been rotated in the opposite direction.

Steps to Follow:

First, rotate the core close to the lineup made by the driver pins and the top pins. However, keep the core as free as possible.

With one hand, hold the shaft and use the other hand to hold the turning handle.

Rotate the turning handle in the desired direction, and then push the shaft into the handle.

Now, insert the plug spinner, but do not turn the core. Make sure the plug is inserted as far as possible.

Finally, hold the spinner level with the core. Once done, press the tension release button. Now, the lock is picked and is ready to be rotated open!

Picking a Combination Lock

Materials Required:

30cm of rope or chord

Steps to Follow:

First, thread the 30cm length of chord or rope through the combination lock's loop, then fold it right around the shackle in half. This is important because the rope will be the makeshift handle that you will use to give the much-needed grip. As you will see, this will make the whole process easier.

Hold the chord or rope tightly, and then push the top of the lock downward as hard as you can. Use your thumb finger for better results. Remember to always exert the same force from now until the combination lock being worked on opens.

Rotate each of the combination lock's dials, but do it slightly. Rotate in each direction. Rotate until you identify the dial that is hardest to rotate. So, for example, if C is the hardest dial, this is the dial you will begin working on.

Gradually rotate the first dial until you hear a click sound. Note that when you hear the click sound, you will also feel the shackle of the combination lock move upwards slightly.

Note the number that produced the click. To be sure that you have the right number, continue to rotate the same dial. So, if C produced the click on the number 6, the same number should be produced even after turning the dial again.

Do the same to the other dials.

When you get to the last dial, your combination lock will open!

If you are to open a single-dial combination lock, follow the steps below;

First, spin the combination lock's dial several times, but you only have to do it thrice in most cases. The aim is to keep spinning the dial until you get to the first number.

Once you get the first number, spin the dial in an anticlockwise motion once until the first number is passed. Once the first number is passed, you will reach the second number.

Spin the dial in a clockwise motion until you get to the last number, and when this happens, pull the combination lock's shackle, and you will be done!

Picking a Car Lock

[xxxviii]Figure 46: Image credit: iStock

Picking a Car Using a Bobby Pin

Materials Required:

2 Bobby pins

Steps to Follow:

Take the bobby pin, then bend a third of its top. This will make it look like a hook. Bend its sides in the same direction.

Make your pick by bending the other bobby pin apart so it takes an L shape.

Slide about 1 cm of your bobby pin inside the car's keyhole, then bend it.

Finally, work on the lock, as we have discussed with the other types of locks, and that is it!

Picking a Car Using an Automotive Bump Tool

[xxxix] Figure 47:Image credit: iStock

You can also pick the lock of a car with an automotive bump tool. However, it is essential to note that using an automotive bump tool can be tricky because it varies from brand to brand and from model to model, so it is quite important to get the right one. After you get the right bump tool, follow the steps below to open your car lock.

In addition,

Note that bump tools will work on car models that have a manufacturing date of 2005 and lower. There are modern models that can be picked using this tool, but it is only for cars that do not have a digital lock chip mechanism.

To unlock a car using a bump tool, follow the steps below:

First, insert the jiggler into the car lock. Ensure that it goes all the way back to the lock.

Rake the jiggler in an up-and-down motion while ensuring that you apply some tension, especially in the direction of the cylinder turn.

If the specific bump key you are using does not open the car, go through the other bump keys, and after a while, you will get the right key to open your car lock!

Picking a Car Lock Using a Metal Coat Hanger

[xl]Figure 48: Image credit: iStock

Another way to pick a car lock is by using a metal coat hanger.

To do this, follow the steps below:

First, untwist the metal coat hanger, then create a hook at the end. There is no specification about the size of the hook because cars are different, but make a hook of a decent size.

Slide in the straightened metal hanger in between the window's weather stripping.

Move the hanger around that space until the hook captures the locking mechanism of your car.

Picking a Car Lock Using a Slim Jim

[xli]Figure 49: Image credit: iStock

Another way you can try is by using a slim Jim. A slim Jim is basically a flat metal sheet. Get one that is anywhere between 1.5 to 2 feet long for it to reach the car's locking mechanism faster. This tool works the same way the coat hanger works; you will insert the slim jim in between the window and weather stripping, then wiggle it around until you feel the door lock. Once there, you will lift the slim Jim, and that is it! The car door will open.

However, it is important to note that this method will only work for automobiles with upright-style locks.

Picking a Car Lock Using a Screwdriver and Rod

[xlii]Figure 50: Image credit: iStock

Note that picking a lock using this method may cause damage to your car, so you need to proceed with some caution.

Materials Required:

A Phillips-style screwdriver

1 metal rod or a tool that is long and has a hook at the end

Steps to Follow:

First, take the screwdriver and slide it inside the gap between the door and the body of the car.

With this, the door will be forced open because you will be pulling out the door.

Slide the rod down right in between the gap you just created while prying using the screwdriver.

Direct the rod towards the door's unlock button which is on the inside of the car, and voila, the door will open.

Picking a Car Lock Using a Wedge

[xliii]Figure 51: Image credit: Shutterstock

Unlike the method where we used a screwdriver and rod, using a wedge is much better because it causes minimal damage to the car's external and internal parts. A wedge is a tool made of impact plastics that assists with unlocking vehicles.

This method is similar to the screwdriver method. So, you will insert the inflatable wedge between the body of the car and the door, and then you will inflate the wedge. Note that you will inflate it until it creates a gap. Once the gap is created, you will slide in the coat hanger, metal rod, or any other long object that has a hook and push it until it hits the unlock button inside the car, and your car will open!

Picking a Deadbolt Lock

[xliv]Figure 52: Image credit: iStock

Materials Required:

Lock pick

90 degree bent tension wrench

Lighter (this is only needed if you are working during cold weather)

Steps to Follow:

First, slide the short end of your wrench into the keyhole, specifically the bottom of the said keyhole. Remember to put some tension on the wrench's handle. The tension wrench should be in the direction the lock turns to get better results. In addition, tension must be maintained throughout the procedure.

Slide in the lock pick into the keyhole, specifically slide it on top of the keyhole. Slide it deep into the keyhole until one of the pins can be felt.

Jimmy the pin upwards using the end of the lock pick. Do this pin after pin until you identify the nest pin. Remember that this aims to identify the one pin that is harder to lift than the other pins.

While still maintaining the tension on the wrench, lift the pin, and when it clears the lock's barrel, you will notice that the barrel will move; the move may not be substantial, but if you are keen, you will notice it. Remember that this movement is important because it prevents the said pin from falling back.

Continue pushing the pin deeper and jimmying the pins until all pins have been lifted. Once you are done, the wrench will be able to turn the lock effortlessly, and the deadbolt will open.

You can also pick the deadbolt lock by bumping it.

Here is how to do this:

Materials Needed:

A bump key

A bump hammer

Steps to Follow:

First, insert the bump key into the deadbolt's keyway. Ensure that the key is pushed all the way in.

Now, turn the bump key into the unlock direction. However, be keen about the force you will use. The force should be minimal because the aim is to apply a turning force that prepares the driver pins to leave the deadbolt's plug. If you successfully manage to have the drivers leave the plug, your bump key will rotate, and your deadbolt lock will unlock.

While you still maintain the turning force of the bump key, use a bump hammer to strike the head of the bump key. Strike the bump key straight and with force. What will happen is that after the key is hit, it will then launch in the deadbolt's keyway, and its teeth will slam into the key pins. This will force the said key pins to move upwards, hit the driver pins, and the pins will fly away from the said key pin. Hopefully, by now, the driver pins will have fully exited the plug, and the key will be able to turn fully, and the lock will be disengaged!

Picking a Disc Detainer Padlock

[xlv] Figure 53 image credit Shutterstock

Picking a disc detainer lock is different from picking a pin tumbler lock because, for a pin tumbler lock, one layer can be cut for a detailed visualization. For a disc detailer lock, you will have to cut through three layers: the outer housing, the lock body, and the disk carrier.

You cannot cut away the disks without disabling the lock itself, so when picking them, you have to be really careful. Also, note that the lock has deep and shallow notches. This lock is harder to pick because the deep notches are true gates, and the shallow notches are shallow gates. However, follow the steps below to pick this lock even with these challenges.

Steps to Follow:

First, using a jiggler key or a wrong key, slide it in and turn the key clockwise. This will turn the discs as far clockwise as possible. This is important because it allows the right tension to be applied and helps prevent seizing while you pick it.

Take a lock pick and slide it in the keyhole, then apply tension on the first disc detainer disc. This will put some torque on the disc, which will also push the sidebar into the discs.

Continue with the turning until you feel some movement on the first disc. Once done, move on to the other discs. Your lock will open right after you finish working on the last disc.

Picking a Wafer Lock

Steps to Follow:

When picking a wafer lock, the first step is to familiarize yourself with its wafers and their arrangement. The lock can either be a single-sided lock or a double-sided lock. If you are wondering how to know how many wafers it has, insert the key and turn it. This will help you feel the lock arrangement. When your wrong key turns the plug, the wafers in the lock will contact the shear line, preventing rotation. This might seem like a bad thing, but what is important to note is that one wafer will contact the shear line.

Be keen with your tensioner. It would be best to place it at the keyway's top or bottom. This will ensure that the right rotational is placed to the plug. Note that most keyways are really difficult to pick, especially if you pick them using the bottom keyway tensioner, so go for the upper one (although having both the top and bottom of the keyway tensioners is recommended). The aim is to pick the opposite of the groove. This way, the wafer lock spring will push the wafer up and down into the groove on your lock's house. If you are picking a double-sided wafer lock, use a pick that will help you flip it so that you are able to pick the opposite wafers, too.

Insert the pick into the keyway of the lock. This will pull the groove and be in line with the shear line. If done successfully, expect some rotation on the plug and then a click sound. Those two reactions mean that the wafer is set.

Repeat the steps above until you go through all the wafers. You might need to adjust the tension so as to locate the next wafer successfully. Once you go through all the wafers, the plug will turn freely, and your lock will open!

While picking different locks, you may make different mistakes. In the next chapter, we will discuss these mistakes and find ways to remedy them to make your lock-picking journey easier.

Chapter 5 – Common Lock Picking Mistakes and How to Remedy Them

Ignoring Minor Changes Across Different Types of Locks

Always note that small changes in the components of a lock can make the lock-picking process rather frustrating. Driver pins, also known as specifically shaped top pins, tend to frustrate raking and picking attempts.

Let us give an example for you to understand.

If you come across pins that have a spool or mushroom shape, it is essential to note that they tend to side lip while picking the lock, which means the pins will not be lifted enough for the shear line to be cleared. So, if you are working on spool pins, anticipate a slight movement and a click, and if you are working on serrated pins, know that they have multiple grooves that catch and bind. In simpler terms, do not ignore any lock changes.

Using Too Much Tension

As we have been mentioning throughout the book, you should always be keen on the amount of tension you use. To help you know how much tension you should use, think about the force required to turn the same lock with a key. It is almost none, right? So, the tension you need while picking your lock should be barely more than this.

The issue with using too heavy-handed tension is that the pins might be bound at the wrong height. Specifically, the pins will be caught between the lock housing and the plug, which means that they will not drop back right after you lift them with the picks. At this juncture, you might think that the pins are set at the shear line, but the truth is, they are not.

With all this in mind, let your tension vary, especially if you reach a point where progress seems to have halted. Briefly switch from light tension to almost no tension at all, as this will allow any pinched pins to drop out of the way.

Having No Variation

Picking one type of lock does not make you a good or better lock picker. This is because every lock is unique. Always experiment with different types of locks and use that experience to gauge your level of proficiency.

Inconsistency

This probably is one of the biggest mistakes that lock pickers make. If you do not practice often, the truth is, you will never be better at lock-picking. So, I recommend practicing every day to keep your lock-picking abilities at your highest level and to ensure that you are ready for any situation.

Conclusion

As this book has proven, it is quite easy to learn how to pick different types of locks and avoid situations where lock picking would help. This book has also proven that you do not need to rely on anyone else when it comes to lock picking; you can do the whole process yourself and succeed.

All the best as you start this fun journey!

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